Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of my
Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by Don Francisco
de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting Interview with M. de
Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the
Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival at Cape Coast--Kindness
of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my Fever--Kindness of the
Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of Africans--Hints with
regard to Educating them--Observations on the Manners and Customs of
the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries--Enlightened Conduct of
the King of Dahomey--The Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The
Mahees--The Kong Mountains--Sail for England.
Aug. 31st.--We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed
through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some
refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived
at Whyboe, where we halted for the night.
Sept. 1st.--In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen
across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its
thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Here the whole of my
party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove
the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had
placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was
fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed
it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat
ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther,
a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me
that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me
some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut
off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I
found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported
sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey.
Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when,
at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven
my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head
was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed
no farther, they thought it best to kill it, and dispose of the meat
in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal
had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the
satisfaction of ocular demonstration.
Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return
to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very
cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so
kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering
the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man
was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused
to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated
me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more
gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the
King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to
assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill
of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King;
but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though
they must have cost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to
let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in
his extensive stores was at my service.
Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay,
and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends
anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back. Mr. R. Hanson, agent
for Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my
journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered
me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my
return to Whydah. I also received great kindness from Mr. James Hanson,
of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced
every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans,
French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during
my residence in Whydah.
My state of health was but little better for some time, though the
wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my
return to Whydah, the _Jane_ of London, Captain Lee, Commander, arrived
in the roadstead, to take in goods for Mr. Hutton. The captain had
suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him I feel
indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of animals, a
free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail on the 20th
of September.
The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to
bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He
begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from
his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at
my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him
that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my
bill, with which he declined to furnish me.
At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long
good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help
feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with
traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for
he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man
on the coast of Africa, which character I am also bound to give him so
far as I am concerned.
Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board the _Jane_;
Mr. R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by furnishing
carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is distant two
miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy rains.
The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the sea, and
consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to go into
the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey mother,
of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high and the
surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in managing
their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to stern,
filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it is
formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept end
on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from the
cotton-tree.
The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe,
had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very
likely to remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as
the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the
surf, she called out for her Abomey mother.
We soon got the water baled out and reached the _Jane_ without another
washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but the greater
part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently I remained on
deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few articles which
undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that I was not a
loser to a greater extent.
The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded
by H.M.S. Brig _Ranger_, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the
following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain
Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from
so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh.
Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head
currents. On the following day the boats of the _Flying Fish_, English
war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of the
day, preparing letters for England, for which the _Jane_ was shortly to
sail.
On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp
look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first
trip, of which the commander had received private information. This
vessel I afterwards learned was captured by the _Flying Fish_, in spite
of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, of
whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed to
British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war.
On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised
by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the
town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met
upon landing by the officers of the garrison, and Mr. Hutton, who
had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to
become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire
strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast.
I returned, however, to my old quarters with Mr. Hutton, where every
attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was
on the coast, during the last few weeks of which I suffered much from
fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my
earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle
by the acting governor, Dr. Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon.
I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt
beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted
powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided
entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and
frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually
increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down
and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon
as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied
with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of
water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every
five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced
copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I
experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness,
probably from excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing
in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found
by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to
strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise
medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering
it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be
beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate.
I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and
other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and
also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his
amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants
on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost
kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak
unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all
barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry.
I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from
the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation.
It is void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans
educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an
example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of
civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable
obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude;
though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading
the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books
of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not
thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively
little benefit.
Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with:
first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so
that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn
the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school
the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated
population, and never use the English language except when in school.
They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many
instances a partial education is only the means of enabling them to
become more perfect in villany.
I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some
healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of
industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial
results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be
selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of
their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the
variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one
branch of education alone.
At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education,
that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight
knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance
to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any
trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks
to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively
few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many
instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either from the
resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then
consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an
establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their
means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves
involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the
goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is
compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy,
where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany.
Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations
upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah
countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the
present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important
of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices.
These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned
to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely
abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and
only allows them to sacrifice the lower animals. Next I may mention
his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his
kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases
of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the
condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now
subject to Dahomey.
The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both
the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in
either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height
of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are
well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of
Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take
much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey,
but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should
suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing
information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all
the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey.
The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil. Ivory is seldom brought
to the coast, except when smuggled, owing to the heavy duty imposed
upon it. The manufactures are limited, cloth being the only article;
but they excel in that article. The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly
level; the soil rich red loam; and, except in the immediate vicinity
of the capital, tolerably well watered. Gold is as abundant there as
in the Ashantee country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom
inquired after.
The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended no farther in a northern
direction than the river Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth
degrees of north latitude. In marching in a north-easterly direction
from Abomey, the first of the Kong Mountains is situated in latitude
8° 20ʹ north, and extends in the same direction as far as 9° 30ʹ,
although mountains of less magnitude are met with of the table form, at
intervals, as far as 13° 6ʹ north.
The Mahee people are lighter in colour than the Dahomans, and are very
active and hardy, lively in their disposition, but said to be very
revengeful; although, as I was under the patronage of the King, I did
not observe any thing in their characters which manifested this. The
females are considerably smaller than those of Dahomey, and may be
called rather good-looking, and, like the Dahomans, are very chaste;
though, as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to any extent.
They are all Pagans here, as well as in Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans
are to be found in the army of the latter, they are never interfered
with in their religious opinions.
Formerly the government of the kingdom of Dahomey was despotic, still
the country has a much more civilized appearance than the petty states
under republican governments, which are generally involved in disputes
and wars.
The Mahees appear to be a distinct people, independently of the
difference of colour. The general formation of their head differs
considerably from others. It is generally elongated from the ear
backwards, and the philoprogenitive organ is very prominent. The
frontal bone is seldom divided, and in many instances the upper part
of the skull, as I have previously stated, is without any division
whatever; but this is also the case in the Dahomans.
The chin of the Mahees is generally shorter than that of the Dahomans,
or people near the coast; their lips are not so thick; their teeth
are very good, and they take great pains in cleaning them, which is
generally the case on the whole of the west coast, where it is a
universal custom, when not otherwise employed, to brush the teeth with
the end of what they term a chew-stick, generally a piece of the branch
of the gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-lead pencil.
They consider that chewing this kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably,
from the acid which it contains, it is superior to any other sort of
tooth-brush.
On many parts of the west coast they sharpen the two front teeth in
the upper jaw by filing, or grinding off the angles, so as to bring
them to a narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skulls I found lighter
and thinner than the Annagoos, or Dahomans, or those on the coast,
many of the latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder part
of the skull, and of a spongy or porous nature. The nose of the Mahees
does not partake in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly
resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their manufactures, which
are composed of cloth, and knitted night-caps, made exactly on the
same principle as in England. They are also clever in the manufacture
of iron, and are well acquainted with native dyes.
The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are very temperate. They are
excellent cooks. Their dishes are generally soups, containing various
vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an oblong form, called
occro. This is considered very strengthening. I believe it might be
cultivated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very much resembling
the stramonium. Their fermented drink is peto, a native beer, which
I have already described. They attain a greater age than in flat,
low countries; and are very industrious in comparison with many
neighbouring countries. The King of Dahomey enforces cultivation over
all his dominions.
The general composition of the Kong Mountains, occupied by the Mahees,
is granite, limestone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains or valleys
I found, protruding above the surface, large masses of fused iron mixed
with round pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which were nearly
as heavy as the pure ore. The outside of these masses had a glazed
appearance. From the north to the south side this chain of mountains
does not exceed forty-five or fifty miles. The principal animals
occupying the Kong Mountains I have already noticed.
The Fellattahs are a different race to either the Dahomans or Mahees.
They are a more warlike people than the Mahees; are light and active
in their movements, very courageous, but also revengeful and stubborn,
though I have been informed, that in a body they cannot fight a
losing battle. They are much intermixed with other tribes, and hold
great sway, occupying a very extensive territory, supposed to extend
from eight degrees west longitude to Bornou, and also a considerable
distance north and south. The real Fellattahs are much darker than the
Mahees, with high square frontal bone and well-proportioned head, in
general; hair, thick and woolly. They are more civilized and ingenious
than the Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers.
Even the system of drainage has found its way to this remote region,
many of their indigo fields being well drained, as also those in the
Mahee country. Their trade is not very extensive, being chiefly
confined to their own locality, and is generally a system of barter,
though cowries and cloth are the general currency of the country. Their
mode of living is much the same as in the Mahee country but they use
less hogs’ flesh, and they eat both horses and dogs, and also several
species of serpents, frogs, and guanos.
I sailed from Cape Coast for England in February, 1846. Previous to my
going on board, I had many little presents sent me, both in the shape
of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the merchants and natives in their
employment, as well as from the resident Missionaries. I also received
some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries who visited Cape
Coast on their way to the Calabar, or Bonny River, in one of Mr.
Jamieson’s ships; I believe one of them was Mr. Waddel. Our vessel was
the _Albion_ of Guernsey, a small schooner of only one hundred and
fifty tons; in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was very
uncomfortable.
After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra, and took on board some
ivory and gold, remaining at the above place one day and a night.
During this time I went on shore to visit some of my old friends,
amongst whom was Mr. Bannerman, whose kindness and hospitality are well
known, both to the naval and military officers who have ever visited
that settlement. I was also kindly received by the resident Wesleyan
Missionary.
Here I found an American Missionary and his wife, accompanied by the
widow of a brother Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she was
apparently fast approaching to her long home. They were all in delicate
health, and were passing down the coast for a change of air, but were
obliged to leave the vessel.
During my stay I received extreme kindness and attention at the
mission-house. I also called at the former residence of Mr. Hanson,
a merchant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain of Cape Coast,
and Mr. R. Hanson from Whydah, were both there. From these gentlemen I
experienced great kindness, both now as well as on former occasions.
Here I again found my old charger, who had carried me during my
long journey in the interior. He was now the property of the Rev.
William Hanson, and had only arrived a few days before from Whydah.
It had probably been taken little care of, for the poor animal was
much reduced in flesh. It recognised my voice, and when I spoke, it
immediately neighed and pawed the ground, anxious to come to me.
Mr. Hanson, its owner, asked me to put a pair of fore-shoes on it,
remarking that it was the last act of kindness I should ever have an
opportunity of bestowing upon the noble little animal. This I readily
assented to: after which I proceeded on board, when we immediately set
sail for England; where, after a tedious and uncomfortable passage of
three months, we arrived. I had much improved in health during the
passage, though my accommodation was bad, for I was obliged to sleep
on deck during six weeks of the time, owing to the suffocating smell
from the heated corn, amongst which some of the palm-oil puncheons had
burst.
RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER,
AS OBSERVED IN DAHOMEY FROM JUNE 11 TO JULY 7, 1845.
+-------------------+-------------------------------------------+
| Rise and Fall | |
| during Day, from | |
| 6 A.M. to 6 P.M. | REMARKS. |
+-------+-----+-----+ |
| Date. |Rise.|Fall.| |
+-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+
| |Deg. |Deg. | |
|June 11| 80 | 76 |In house, against clay wall. |
| ” 12| 82 | 78 |In house. |
| ” 13| 81 | 75 |Ditto. |
| ” 14| 82 | 76 |Ditto. |
| ” 15| 80 | 77 |Ditto. |
| ” 16| 81 | 76 |Ditto. |
| ” 17| 80 | 74 |{Heavy tornado at 2 P.M.; fall suddenly |
| | | |{ to 74°. |
| ” 18| 82 | 76 | |
| ” 19| 80 | 74 | |
| ” 20| 81 | 74 | |
| ” 21| 78 | 74 |{Unusually cold; natives feverish; |
| | | |{ cold and rainy season. |
| ” 22| 78 | 74 |Cloudy. |
| ” 23| 78 | 76 |Cloudy. |
| ” 24| 82 | 75 |Morning cloudy. |
| ” 25| 77 | 75 |Cold and showery all day; tornado. |
| ” 26| 81 | 74 |Cloudy in the evening; very dark night. |
| ” 27| 82 | 73 |Wind; storm. |
| ” 28| 82 | 73 |Heavy shower. |
| ” 29| 79 | 74 | |
| ” 30| 82 | 73 |Cold rainy night; wind west. |
| July 1| 82 | 74 |Very windy, and unusually steady. |
| ” 2| 80 | 73 |Slight showers; wind west. |
| ” 3| 77 | 73 |Showers in the morning; day cloudy. |
| ” 4| 82 | 73 |Heavy tornado; lightning and thunder heavy.|
| | | |{This day temperature changeable |
| ” 5| 81 | 70 |{ during a tornado, the heaviest seen; |
| | | |{ thermometer fell to 70°. |
| ” 6| 80 | 73 |Unusually cold in the morning. |
| ” 7| 82 | | |
+-------+-----+-----+-------------------------------------------+
THE END.
LONDON:
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
Transcriber’s Notes
Errors in punctuation have been fixed.
Page 86: “the the corn” changed to “the corn”
Page 121: “chiefly dependnet” changed to “chiefly dependent”
Page 128: “into the midde” changed to “into the middle”
Page 137: “aview of” changed to “a view of”
Page 227: “must have have been” changed to “must have been”
Page 268: “Wesleyan misonary” changed to “Wesleyan missionary”