Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the
Natives--State Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to
the Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by
Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those
of his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim across the
Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty in getting my
Horse across--Fearlessness of the Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad
Roads--Jallakoo--Reception by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in
Regimentals before the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my
Illness--Description of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and
those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer.
August 18th.--We were visited early by the caboceer, who came to wish
us good morning, bringing with him another small flask of rum, with
which we drank each other’s health. He seemed very desirous to acquaint
me with his wealth and power, explaining that he held, under the King
of Dahomey, a discretionary power superior to any other caboceer, and
also the government of several neighbouring towns in the Mahee country,
as well as several large towns in his own country (Annagoo), which he
assisted the Dahomans in subduing. Savalu is the frontier town of the
Annagoo country, the natives of which are always considered a lawless,
marauding people, and habituated to acts of extreme cruelty.
In a short time breakfast was brought; after partaking of which we
were again invited to the market-place, where many thousands, both
old and young, were assembled to see the white man. The crowd was so
great, that the ground-keepers were entirely overpowered, although
they used their immense whips with great violence and dexterity. It
is a singular fact, that the state constables in nearly all the large
towns of the Dahoman, Mahee, Fellattah, and Annagoo countries, are
selected from deformed persons. Many of them are armed with a bullock’s
tail dried with the skin on, and the long hair shaven off. This is a
merciless weapon when used with both hands, which is frequently the
case when authority is resisted. The offending parties are compelled
to kneel down, and to place a hand on each knee, the body bending
forward towards the constable, who inflicts his blows longitudinally
on the back. This is a very severe punishment, and is the mode adopted
for minor offences through the whole Dahoman kingdom. A dozen is the
greatest number I ever knew inflicted at one time on the same person.
Some soldiers having been stationed to assist in keeping the ground,
something like order was restored, and the amusements commenced by the
caboceer circling round in his hammock, as on the previous afternoon.
During this a continual firing was kept up. He afterwards got out of
his hammock, and advanced within a few yards of me, when, as usual,
he went through the regular forms of prostration. He then examined
my horse and trappings, apparently with great interest. His soldiers
and head men then commenced dancing; and, as a matter of courtesy, my
caboceer condescended to dance with the same party. Their music was
rude, but not very unpleasant; they were wind instruments, similar to
the hautboy, accompanied with drums and calabashes, or gourds, covered
with net-work strung with human teeth.
The fetish-women, who were at this period keeping up their annual
custom, which lasts during a whole moon, were then introduced. They
appeared to be the finest and handsomest women in the place. They were
richly ornamented with coral and brass bracelets or armlets, apparently
of Bornouese manufacture. Each wore, besides a country cloth, a large
silk handkerchief of European manufacture. I could scarcely refrain
from expressing my regret at seeing them prostrate themselves, and
besmearing themselves with dirt, after the pains which they had taken
to appear so neat and clean before this form of humiliation.
As soon as this ceremony was finished, the whole party repeated a short
prayer, after which they commenced a dance by themselves, singing
some particular song, to which they kept time by clapping their hands
against those of their partner. My own soldiers next commenced dancing,
when they were joined by the principal men of Savalu, who considered
themselves highly honoured by being allowed to dance with my Dahoman
soldiers.
After this sort of amusement had been concluded, I presented both
parties of soldiers with some rum, and took a stroll round the town to
examine the markets, and observe their mode of manufacture. This day,
however, had been set apart by order of the caboceer as a holiday, so
that scarcely any thing was exposed for sale in the market. However,
I had an opportunity of seeing the blacksmith and weaver at work. The
weavers here use a more perfect loom than the Fellattahs, and are also
much superior to any I observed in the Mahee country. At Savalu they
weave a sort of webbing similar to some of the fine silk webbing used
for gentlemen’s braces; but, upon a close inspection, I found that
several of the principal weavers used European manufactured thread,
both silk and cotton.
In the whole of the countries I have visited, either on the coast, or
in the interior, they have no other method of spinning than by the
ancient distaff. I have often wondered at this, for their looms are
exactly on the same principle as those of Europe. They knit nightcaps
in great quantities here; and during my stay at Baffo a man knitted me
a pair of socks, from a pair I lent him as a pattern. These are still
in my possession.
I asked permission to shoot some cranes in the cranery we passed
yesterday, but the caboceer would only allow me to shoot the grey ones.
The white cranes, he said, were the fetish-men to the grey ones.
The caboceer accompanied me, and seemed much surprised at my killing
one with so small a gun on the top of so high a tree, particularly
as he had never seen small shot used before. They generally use iron
bullets, rudely forged. I offered to shoot one with a gun belonging to
the principal warrior of my guard, but this he peremptorily refused,
declaring “that if white man fired out of his gun, black man can never
again kill any thing with the same piece.” To convince him of his
error, I offered to let him have a shot with mine, but even this he
declined. I afterwards learnt that they will not even allow their own
comrades to fire out of their guns.
Upon my return home I found my court-yard covered with dishes of
provision, smoking hot, the merchants as well as the caboceer having
sent numerous dishes, as well as plenty of peto for my people to drink.
Soon after we had finished our meal, we were beset with fetish-women,
bringing small presents, received by them as tithes, on the last
market-day. Tithes are actually customary to fetish-women even in
Abomey. Although their present be ever so trifling, the acceptor is
considered as under a religious obligation to make a return of tenfold
value.
One very fine old fetish-woman, accompanied by her two daughters,
presented me with some eggs, which she brought me on a soup plate of
English manufacture, for which I gave in return needles and thimbles.
With these they seemed much pleased, but unfortunately on their way
home they dropped the plate and broke it into several pieces. The young
ladies returned crying bitterly, earnestly entreating me to mend it,
and seemed still more grieved when I told them that it was beyond my
skill. To console them, however, I told them that I would certainly
send them one from Whydah by the Abomey messenger, who would forward it
to Savalu by the traders. This promise I fulfilled.
Late in the evening the caboceer again visited me, when I presented
him with a few ornamental trinkets, as well as a knife and a pair of
scissors. With these he seemed pleased. I also presented his head
men, and the Abomey merchants who had treated us so kindly, with some
trifling articles. In return, they presented me with a live goat and
some fowls.
August 19th.--Early in the morning I was visited by the caboceer,
who came to pay his morning visit. The night had been very wet, and
I was still suffering a little from fever; however, I was determined
to proceed on my journey. We were furnished with a good breakfast,
of which I partook a little. I had now become quite the African in
my diet, which agreed with me very well, and I would recommend all
travellers to adopt the same plan. When my party were announced to
be all ready for the march, we were conducted through the principal
market-place, where we found a fine young bull tied to one of the
trees. The gay young caboceer here prostrated himself, and after the
usual rubbing with dirt, presented me with this bull, which he sent to
Abomey by carriers.
During my stay at Savalu the caboceer supplied me with seventy-seven
large calabashes of ready-cooked provision, besides plenty of fruit,
the principal of which, in use at this season, were the gwaba,
pine-apple, oranges, popans, mangoes, and the kidney cachu. The
caboceer, before leaving his town, begged me to do him the honour to
insert his own and the name of his head men in my book. I here give
them, for they tend to show the names peculiar to different countries:--
Caboceer Bagadee.
Head men Agbuzzee.
Kootakoo.
Naghwoolyaemadah.
Dissou.
Naghohennah.
Agyddymoosee.
Agbadyea.
Kpwaghooda.
Agoyae.
Daffo.
Bozavee.
Kudjo.
Koko.
Attlah.
Athaly.
Dakphway.
Boka.
Vaugh.
Kogilee.
Lyhoo.
Bossou.
Gbazoo.
Oosa.
Atholoo.
Mirahoo.
Modjekossee.
Azamodoko.
Jayaloogo.
Kudjo 2d.
Akyea.
Jagadidjee.
Yakadya.
Caboceer’s Head wife Selamee
The thermometer now ranged from 80° to 73° of Fahrenheit.
It may be well to observe here, that the name of Kudjo is not peculiar
to this country, but rather to the Gold Coast, and is only given to
those who are born on particular days.
After finishing the above ceremony, we marched on our journey, bearing
W.S.W., crossing the range of Savalu Mountains. The grass, which was
very long (being nearly six feet), and hanging across the path, quite
wet from the previous night’s rain, soon drenched us as much as a
heavy rain would have done, but the sun very soon dried all of us,
and perspiration succeeded. At two miles we reached a fine open plain
studded with shea butter-trees, now ripe; their fruit was lying in
large quantities under the trees.
The direction of the path now changed more southward. Here we passed
numbers of ash-trees not different from that of Great Britain, except
that they had a rougher bark, with deeper fracture. Journeying a few
miles farther, we passed through some thick bush, where we found large
quantities of wild grapes hanging in bunches over the path; the vine
clinging to various trees, and running from one to another. This grape
was of the green tribe, very similar to those which ornament the walls
of our cottages in England, but the bunches were not so compact. At
eight miles, we crossed the River Zoka, running S.E. with a rapid
stream, on account of its being the rainy season. At nine miles we
crossed another brook, with excellent water, running in nearly the
same direction.
At fourteen miles, we passed some curious shrubs of the same
description as I observed in the Fellattah country; although in full
vegetation, the leaves were coloured and marked like the feathers of a
partridge. There is here also a great variety of the aloe tribe, some
of which I found to change their colour and marks by transplanting to a
different soil. The wild gwaba is very abundant here, and much larger
than in the neighbourhood of Cape Coast. The yellow fig also abounds
here as well as the kolla-nut.
At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river Zoka, which at this
place runs S.W., twenty yards wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were
detained upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain a canoe,
but as they are generally kept at a great distance from the paths,
it takes several hours to bring them to the place of crossing. In
this instance, however, we were totally defeated, for my messengers
returned with tidings that the canoe was broken, so that we had no
other method of getting across except by swimming. The stream at this
place was very rapid, consequently I deemed it prudent, not to swim
across on horseback, but put on my life-preserver (an American one).
Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use to me, but rather entangled
me; and I was consequently carried a considerable distance obliquely
down the stream. However, I landed safely on some rocks on the opposite
side, but in doing so struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion
of skin off as well as bruising it.
My next object was to get my luggage across, now much diminished
both in bulk and weight. I caused some poles, which were growing in
abundance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and lashed together, in
the form of a raft. In a piece of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I
tied two bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball of sewing twine,
which was loosely placed in a coil to prevent its getting entangled.
The two bullets were then attached to a stouter piece of string, about
one yard in length, used to sling them across the river. After the
bullets were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to which a line
of about the substance of a clothes’ line was fixed, the other end
of which was fastened to the raft. This was placed on the water a
considerable distance above the landing-place, so as to allow for the
current. Two boxes were placed on the raft, and when ready I pulled
them across. This method was repeated until the whole of my luggage, as
well as that of my officers, was safely landed.
By this time the greater part of my people had swam across also, but my
horse still remained. It was also fastened to the end of the raft line
and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached the opposite bank,
which was nearly perpendicular and the water deep, the poor animal
could not obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by the halter,
till the headstall gave way. The poor beast, already considerably
exhausted from exertion, now made again for the other side, where it
narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract formed of rocks a little
below the place of crossing. To my great satisfaction, however, the
noble little animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook itself,
and neighed, looking across as if conscious of its being on the wrong
side. The little fellow was again haltered with stronger material, and
was launched into the river.
I now placed myself at a part of the bank close to a small creek, where
it reached me without difficulty, being lower down the stream. I at
once saddled him, and resumed our journey.
I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner in which my caboceer and
head men’s wives took the water. They did not even require the raft to
carry their luggage across, the whole of which was contained in large
gourd calabashes, about two feet and a half diameter. These vessels
were guided across with one hand, while the other was used in swimming.
Immediately after crossing the river, it commenced raining very
heavily, and continued to do so for several hours.
The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and
worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough
iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render
the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet
sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found
myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on
my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to
walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more
fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my long journey,
though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and
brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have
even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the
little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one
instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped
from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters
and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously
made a second attempt, in which it succeeded.
Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we
were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night
was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with
little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots,
till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town
of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of
this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence.
After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again in the original
kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that
direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place
by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official
affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age.
This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the
usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely
exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my
uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets
and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by
torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood,
which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes
smeared with the shea-butter.
After entering the town, we were conducted to an inner market-place,
where we again halted to go through all the tedious ceremony of a
Dahoman reception. This I could very willingly have dispensed with,
for I now began to feel very uncomfortable, my under-clothing being
completely saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon, which had
now ceased. I also felt very sensibly an inclination to ague, which
was considerably advanced by being put into a new house, the walls and
thatch of which were quite green and open on three sides, which were
merely borne on wooden pillars, for they had been informed that I did
not like close or dark lodgings. I put up the little tent which I had
constructed inside of the house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush
mattress, which made an excellent bed, having been prepared for me, I
was placed inside of it, and a strong fire immediately kindled close
to me. I then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal, with which
I took a strong dose of James’s powder and opium, and in a short time
the ague ceased, but was immediately followed by a burning fever with
intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint of water every five
minutes, till at last the perspiration became so copious, that I felt
almost as wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt much easier,
and through the powerful influence of the opium I passed a night of
pleasant and happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely regretted
I could not realize. The caboceer, however, declared his night had
been anything but comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been
groaning and talking nearly the whole of it, which had much alarmed
him. I felt so considerably weakened from the violence of the attack,
and from such copious perspiration, and the stupifying effects of
the opium, that I was scarcely able to stand on my legs. I rallied,
however, and determined to resist as much as possible the powerful
influence of the fever, and with a little assistance I walked a few
times round the yard, in the centre of which was a fine large spring
well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of this I took a copious
draught, which considerably refreshed me.
In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay, sent twenty large
calabashes, filled with provision, ready cooked for our breakfast; and
immediately afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-two more
dishes. They both expressed regret that I should suffer from sickness
while in their country, but assured me that nothing should be wanting
on the part of their fetish-men and women in making intercession with
the great Fetish for my immediate recovery, and also expressed their
readiness to supply me with any thing necessary for my comfort. After
this they retired till we should finish our breakfast, when the deputy
caboceer again paid me a visit; and though they both knew I was so ill,
begged that I would favour them with a visit to the old man’s house
in my regimentals and on horseback. Upon remonstrating, I found that
my refusal was likely to create dissatisfaction, especially as his
messenger arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-men they had
come to the conclusion that I should speedily recover from my present
indisposition.
As soon as possible I prepared myself, and proceeded to the court-yard
of the old caboceer, which was at some distance off. Having a great
many very low doorways to pass through, I was nearly bent double.
My horse also with difficulty passed through without his saddle,
consequently I was prevented mounting until I arrived at the caboceer’s
yard. Here I found the venerable chief seated under the shade of a
large cabbage-tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering the
court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on their knees, with their
hands together and in front of their faces, as if in the attitude of
prayer. Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands three times,
then a short pause ensued, and the same clapping of hands was repeated
twice more. This is a mode of salutation in Whydah to a superior, as
also as in all the Dahoman kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and
the cracking of the two second fingers of each hand, joined, in the
same manner as cracking the thumb and finger. The old man seemed much
interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also with my arms, and the
manner of placing them on the saddle to carry them. He next put a great
many questions to me respecting white man’s country, and seemed much
astonished at my answers.
The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-surfaced rock, at the
base of a mountain, from which the town takes its name. This is the
most picturesque of all the mountains I have yet seen in the Mahee
or Dahoman kingdom. One part of it is formed by the largest blocks
of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon each other: in some
respects their position was not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees
in many instances grew between these immense rocks, which support the
upper or horizontal ones. In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand
and so picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also the last we
touch upon on our return to Abomey.
Here I made particular inquiry respecting their mode of agriculture,
and the sort of grain principally used, as well as what was the most
profitable, and its time of ripening. Guinea corn is much used here,
as well as several sorts of maize and rice. I was informed that in
this country the Guinea corn requires nearly seven moons to ripen,
rice five, and maize between four and five months, though at Setta and
Paweea I found a smaller sort of Indian corn, which ripens in two and
a half and three moons, and also another sort which ripens in four
moons. They never consider the utility of selecting any particular
sort of seed; but after my return to Abomey, the King, who is a great
agriculturist, informed me that the latest corn known will, if planted
in the proper season, ripen in less than four moons, and also told me
that the time of ripening had in many instances been mistaken, from
a want of knowledge, and planting the corn too soon before the rainy
season.
We were supplied with plenty of peto during our palaver. Here were
several beautiful crown-birds walking about the market-place quite
tame. The old caboceer expressed great anxiety to have the names of
himself and head men, as well as his principal wive’s name, recorded in
my book; and I here give them according to my promise, as follows:--
First Caboceer Nakoomakay.
Wife’s name Agbally.
Second Caboceer Adyamee.
Wife’s name Whendie.
Head men.
Tetay.[19]
Atakpa.
Bosou.[19]
Kudjo.[19]
Adamazo.
Chigyea.
Dakay.
Ozee.
Mokosa.
Wzoto.
Tootee.
Takpwadda.
After this ceremony I was allowed to depart to my own quarters, where
I changed my dress, but had scarcely finished when I was besieged
by visitors from all parts of the town, as well as the neighbouring
villages, many of whom brought me provisions ready cooked, and several
live animals. One rich merchant, named Sisinau, brought me thirty-two
large calabashes of provision, as well as plenty of peto. Many of the
fetish-men and women brought me gruels of various compositions, all of
which were very palatable, being generally sweetened with wild honey,
which is very abundant in the whole of the country traversed in this
direction.
In the evening I was again visited by the two caboceers, whom I
treated with a flask of rum to distribute amongst his head men. I
also gave him a piece of romall (cloth), which I invariably gave the
caboceers in whose towns I lodged, as well as some Jew’s harps, and
two knives, with some papers of needles and a few thimbles, which were
much prized. I then signified my intention to proceed on my journey
early next morning, when the old man pressed me much to stop another
day. This I certainly would have done, had I not been afraid of being
more seriously attacked by fever and ague, as my quarters were very
pleasant, and the people extremely kind. A great many visitors came
with small presents during the remainder of the evening to inquire
after my health, as well as for the purpose of seeing white man, to
all of whom I gave some trifling article in return. The thermometer
ranged at Jallakoo from 71° to 80°, Fahrenheit, which, it will be
observed, is much colder than on the coast in the coldest season.
FOOTNOTES:
[19] The names Tetay, Bosou, and Kudjo, are all common along the coast
from Whydah to Cape Coast, and are given from the days of the week on
which they are born.