Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn of
Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures,
&c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market
Day--Curiosity of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables,
their Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the
Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm
Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain
Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market
price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method of
drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror of the
Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents to
the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width,
&c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring
Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native Furnace
and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac.
After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we
re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without
breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town,
consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to
the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government,
and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and
several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment be
divested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As
soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think
of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance
from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in
the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated.
We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not
long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of
an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few
previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour:
even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to
cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid,
I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself.
The path from Assofoodah[13] bears N. 45° W., varying from 45° W. to
10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying
from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some
soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery.
It is very productive.
At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with
a prickly hedge, at least twenty yards broad, and strongly walled
inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded
by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a
messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long
before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as
they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding
out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half
long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper,
resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me,
consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of
it.
I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though
he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the
Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would
be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could
scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which
I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this
was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers.
After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they
all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself,
prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting,
shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each
time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their
country, signifies, _How are you?_ or, _How do you do?_ The chief was a
fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very
active for a man of his years.
The natives of this country are very different, both in form and
appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of
temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in
their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are
either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their
cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal
bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers
of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had
anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.
After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the
court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash
of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A
bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is
abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to cook
our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we
were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn
for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea
fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man
speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some
scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to
enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over
the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle
with only the usual daily trade.
This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different
trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were
occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil
are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same
principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact
upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less
workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very
regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with
considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are
also well known here.
The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment of plenty. But the
extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition
of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the
immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal
upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the
administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful
crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated.
They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I
ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that
between Abomey and Canamina.
We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town,
followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer,
or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his
people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our
satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some
of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of
ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason
unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of
a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the
chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey
rejoicing.
We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with
nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had
passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.
Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still
bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles
we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we
entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere
being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march
was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down,
while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo,
as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were
surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market,
and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In
fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost
upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch
a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings
seemed to create a great sensation.
In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds
in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe
of distinct species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the
sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in
any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time
the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected,
several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides
fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right
and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it
appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or
gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These
people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision
exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men
were clearing a passage for their master to advance.
The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the
exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction
to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board,
about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo
cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which
the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or
slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is
slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of
this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument
I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a
somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed
out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the
concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed
over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is
not equal to that I have just described.
The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and
confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for
us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying
down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his
country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief
professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and
remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto),
but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was
caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market
were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only
native manufacture I saw was cloth.
After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our
journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but
it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went
a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there
encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my
small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not
before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a
considerable distance to procure more water.
This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular
propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it.
I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire,
it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left
to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled
to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a
town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had
given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were
desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in
such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving
them lessons, till overcome with sleep. During the night we were
obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel
inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably
good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then
aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon
prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon
consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant
suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.
On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town,
without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in
his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We
were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the
same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were
requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances,
the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards
with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief
and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found
the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as
intoxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I
was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one
single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or
compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though
they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they
interfere with the food of the latter.
Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on
other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither
will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it.
Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed
by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of
turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as
soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds,
all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and
trees.
This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn,
their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by
building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a
hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out
when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.
The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof
of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and
long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow
ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in
diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14]
Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter
is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very
anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour
an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of
white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They
seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like
myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.
Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for
ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants,
and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw
no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the
houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite
common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.
After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles
and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our
journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety
to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of
Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also.
We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had
repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and
safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing N. 23° W., and
varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° W. The land now became
uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling
slate, different to any thing I had before observed.
At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine
cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and
palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also
abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at
this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the
crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The
principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground
beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root, as well as kankie, ready
cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.
There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a
few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved
and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles
we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable.
Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full
bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters
over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig
also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.
At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants.
Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much
resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer
breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of
cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa,
but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an
hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man,
who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his
village.
The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome, and the sheep
considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two
very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we
were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing
it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very
handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their
manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to
those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a
great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame
state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in
nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite
article of commerce.
We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in
flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different
vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their
principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its
value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces,
dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of
the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered
preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in
drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom
by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.
The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very
productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as
an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The
beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and
villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different
to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing
fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They
were very delicious and refreshing.
At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a
pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we
observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea
corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but
upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We
remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been
made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several
persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of
us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and
females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow
and spear.
In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His
little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or
saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of
the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of
the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity,
although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his
countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual,
into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out
of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our
business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As
usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable
satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow
until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire
that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly
objected to as likely to give offence.
My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the
chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be
allowed to pass through the country without the great king of the
country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man
failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the
great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence,
and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.
Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white
man was going to _dash_ him, or what present he was going to make
him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger
visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been
in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might
ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to
his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there.
Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to
Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of
obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s
harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes
upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.
He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one
hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer
than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their features and figures
were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I
had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed
within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed
gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s
females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality
of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of
one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I
was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised
him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with
less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He
picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me,
doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could
not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.
After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we
resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river
Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into
a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations
for swimming across. One of my people carried a change of linen, and
two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as
presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the
horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water,
for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me
across with a rapidity scarcely credible.
I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned
me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We
crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet.
My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge
into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved
their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on
their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of
keeping it in a water-tight case.
Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made
their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and
he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across
at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps
a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it
is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river.
Travellers with heavy loads cannot cross this river without employing
the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we
had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and
twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a
half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction.
To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet,
boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine,
leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece
of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very
thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide,
and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over
board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and
wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the
bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same
time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the
depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty
yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the
wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the
line carefully up previously to throwing it.
The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet
above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river
till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions,
and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at
twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This
town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three
market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and
though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily
employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering
their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve
years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized
them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair.
Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin,
and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and
naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The
chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same
office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of
the trade in all articles of consumption.
The hills in this neighbourhood abound with iron, and another mineral
substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is
probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board
in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during
the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and
considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely
rubbing it round it.
Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore.
The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman
cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is
built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and
about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers
inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from
the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows,
which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The
bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of
wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard
long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are
fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one
end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the
block of wood: it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges.
Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the
sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body
of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates
with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close
on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers,
being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same
principle as the bellows used in England.
The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in
each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the
other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept
up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that
used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old
gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their
way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this
purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the
interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it.
But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be
procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer
of charcoal and iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at
the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours
elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of
course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the
bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that
which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn
to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to
be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most
efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough
and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though
swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in
Kassokano.
The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my
interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never
hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing
my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads
off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured
them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a
white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some
evil art, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course
ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect.
After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we
were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered
us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so
filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves
had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much
annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp
somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he
seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my
gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey,
never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town.
We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the
southern gate, the path bearing N. 30° W., and at two miles from the
town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some
rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle
a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my
poor fellows, who were evidently beginning to show symptoms of having
been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I
found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined
to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times
hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old
adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put
my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but
I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to
proceed.
FOOTNOTES:
[13] Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.
[14] Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the
neighbourhood of Whydah.