Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My
Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver with
the King--Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans--Inhospitality--The
Shea-butter, and other Trees--The Gwbasso--Prevalent
Diseases--Soil--The Velvet Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold
Reception by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard
Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King Chosee
and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment of Danger--Result
of a Firm Demeanour--Respect shewn by the King and Natives--Enter
Koma with a Band of Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the
King’s Wives--Palaver with the King--The Niger known here as the
Joleeba--Presents to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges
for Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle
of the Caboceer--Slave-Market--Trade Monopolized by the
Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the
Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous
Confusion--Inhospitality.
Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed
in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at
short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However,
as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold
and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless
informed the caboceer or king of our approach, and he had sent a
messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came,
and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was,
that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate
till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people
now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that
we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No
ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but
all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned,
informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us.
Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his
appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers,
who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as
they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted.
The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted.
During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told
him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view
besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan
fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.
As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if aroused from stupor,
was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment
and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a
long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed
almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people
were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows
were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired,
although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled
forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as
possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could
purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought,
from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the
price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an
exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂_d._;
however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had
only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than
a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they
would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money--money seemed
to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does
in all countries.
This circumstance was rather a damper on a private scheme I had then
in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was
both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place
was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing
I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun,
and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of
sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One
man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned
from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora,
that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information
was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining
information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named
Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po,
whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence
of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain
three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already
experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were
too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that
the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.
I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my
guard in a clandestine manner, and in all probability I might be the
means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might
incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real
friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied
me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined
to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three
soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my
friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman
whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my
return, which would be as soon as possible.
The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting
the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King
of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me
belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was
now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name
of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those
mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from
small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance
of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those
who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation
was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be
mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on
the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad
when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well
as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with
my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in
the morning--rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored
our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at
this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry
respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to
receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything
in return.
July 24th.--Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made
a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to
Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore N. 35°
W. varying to N. 10° W. and N. 15° W. (true) bearing. The country was
level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes
and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many
large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more
rough than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this
neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of
considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep.
The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward
at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of
great size, as well as hippopotami.
Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a
few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers,
each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants.
Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives;
probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was
strictly forbidden.
At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet,
running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was
at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of
our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and
brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a
fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had
a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the
corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.
We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my
men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now
very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a
tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba.
Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be
admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to
ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the
caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know
my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of
no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I
came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea.
This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it
very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our
palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my
people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their
friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer,
_the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing_.[12] However,
we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting
white men’s country, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which
they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for
not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the
Fellattah country.
The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that
I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty
to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no
other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to
trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods
were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles.
These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would
like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all
very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling,
we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were
obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his
family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as
nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method
of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which
saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red
rice, which grows in this country, and with the two fowls and some
shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left
to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of
any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not
scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so
much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.
Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl
and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy
drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we
commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow,
and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it.
The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions,
to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where
indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon
a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is
made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed
in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this
kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also
stirrups, similar to those used by the Moors in the neighbourhood of
Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured
here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having
in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to
pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb,
but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently
the case in the Fellattah country.
In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks
with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain,
and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs
eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes
of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly
level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance
to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated
land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as
our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we
were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the
caboceers of our coming.
When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn
plantation, we were met by Chosee, the King of this province, preceded
by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us,
flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by
the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the
little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very
fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never
having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment,
not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but
confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however,
long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence
in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a
barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger
and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur,
though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the
danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms
of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but
I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my
drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless
for us to sell our lives cheaply.
Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was
aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this
troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and
that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they
stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity
of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the
whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song,
each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their
King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to
advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers
and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior
rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening
the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself.
I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was
in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was
not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook
hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this
country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After
going through the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers
of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.
This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled
and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the
market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments
like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European,
but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it.
I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed
since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made
aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit
Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent,
independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King
with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his
sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.
After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some
of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of
which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to
station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie
Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a
white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as
if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked
one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives
hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should
be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt
they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first
presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving
that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and
my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner
apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst
which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered
salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this
alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and
contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.
The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with
Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was
rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged to acknowledge that I
had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at
Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened
to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King
of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing
through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might
have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country
to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with
this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for
their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me
whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more
in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to
be able to supply in abundance.
He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter
into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and
Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved
of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied
that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here
by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge
of the unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as
he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to
that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the
natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been
known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living.
The Niger appears to be known here only by the name _Joleeba_, not
_Joliba_. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. Fever
and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though a
very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called
yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person
is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the
arms and legs even to the bone.
After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my
march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors,
with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for
offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not
aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to
make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list
of the articles which he would prefer that I should bring on my next
visit, to which of course I assented.
His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that
night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over,
I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a
messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next
town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named
Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent
crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants
for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on
account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma,
and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides.
The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in
this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without
great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the
King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey
to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked
him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried
with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they were so very dear,
that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes
twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one
string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but
would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken
any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take
any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents.
I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the
wood with which he supplied us.
The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior
description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is
grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large
description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so
handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of
intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of
knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation.
The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants.
At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled
corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearing N. 33° W., true bearing,
varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to
25°, 20° to 80° W. During the first twelve miles the country was
nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed
the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of
carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka.
Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did
not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was
roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our
attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater
display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally
very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for
he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all
merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market.
Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some
in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons
were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many
instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be
perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are
invariably the property of the owners of the parents, and are bought
and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the
breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the
walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two
walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is
often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market
is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there
are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town.
The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the
prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade
(with the exception of any European goods which may find their way
into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public
market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for
his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the
inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger
boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking
light goods for sale.
The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized
by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic,
and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in the mouth when
parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state
is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country.
Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also
bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are
arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being
sold in places specially appointed for their sale.
In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the
piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always
sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no
inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant
here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken
in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb,
consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto
is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made
strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk
in a state of fermentation.
After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned
me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake
of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen pots, made in
the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken
their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to
ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the
event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I
knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get
rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen
Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart.
I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods
if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew,
however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the
price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female
slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand
cowries.
After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed
my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and
a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I
found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was
level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of
iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant.
The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with
large trees of luxurious growth.
At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah.
Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now
getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to
obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten
a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people,
as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more
substantial food.
After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the
town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with
a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features.
My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our
treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey,
as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time
to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great
consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie.
I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much
consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces,
the caboceer made a sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves,
and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they
styled king.
Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay
him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no
further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in
his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious.
I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for
the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought
if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to
be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the
protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he
could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining
fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado,
and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some
distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into
another.
After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse
could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I
did not at all relish. The objection made was that the doorways were
too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the
poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low
doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.
At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a
quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones
for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were
busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous
confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl
pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the
dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or
anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and
very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening
to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than
three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood
to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain
for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they
seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and,
though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged
to satisfy ourselves with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we
still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me
plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which
I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I
easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said
his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a
large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.
He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply
of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my
hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking
that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the
first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement,
that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real
belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine,
but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted
ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced
to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd
ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents),
and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour to examine the
contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at
the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.
In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters,
and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to
trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any
knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one
and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night,
during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying,
as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a
bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this
country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water
yams.
FOOTNOTES:
[12] In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.