The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of
Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Aditay--Soil--The
Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo
Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent of
the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular Situation
of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable Origin
of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance, assumed or
real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives--The Dabadab
Mountains--Superstition--Singular Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty
to the Brute Creation--Difficult Descent--Agriculture and
Manufactures--Height of the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at
Zoglogbo--Names of the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of
Caboceer and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic
Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits,
&c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods exposed
for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial of Skill--Dog
poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The Caboceer’s principal
Cook.
SUNDAY, July 13th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me
plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness
to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to
partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of
meal and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the
consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in
England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very
much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but
he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so
often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the
market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was
a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.
After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on
our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town,
where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s
household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering
something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard
communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would
honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book.
This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest
honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I
readily acceded; and in a short time had all their names registered in
my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given
by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call
each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me;
but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed
surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over
the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure
from the town of Paweea.
I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:--
Caboceer’s name Terrasso-Weea.
1st Head man Adah.
2d do. Chaaoulong.
4th do. Daowdie.
5th do. Avamagbadjo.
6th Head Musician Hawsoo-Agwee.[2]
The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people
with provisions and peto at Paweea[3] were:--
Tossau.
Yakie.
Bowka.
Adassie.
Howta.
Kossau.
Nookodoo.
We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of
the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay.
Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several
large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a
temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country
which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held
without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering
the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their
own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native
manufacture.
About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and
at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E.
and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea.
The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and
other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared
stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer
approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the
water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the
tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the
softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon
becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking
the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.
At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded
with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed
the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue
granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the
season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream,
capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing
changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The
temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil
of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the
river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a
gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.
At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude,
and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing
N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the
mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in
the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well
as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three
feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are
inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called
water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four
different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest
of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also
very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same
height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.
At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a
splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high
on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the
market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain
of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of
Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue.
He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of
age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high,
and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within
about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the
caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he,
together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves,
throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same.
My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms
of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and
delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they
constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to
the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie
seemed very fond.
We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or
fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large
cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the
rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing
amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their
flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the
mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time,
and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone
which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend
with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in
front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as
occasion required.
After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the
gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches,
strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much
easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so
that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above
twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the
town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of
the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are
thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses
are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a
tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected
with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal
merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of
squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are
frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also
occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own
families. Indeed, as I have already observed, they work together in
cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.
The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary
utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were
brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness
of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention
were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young
man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent
African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity
in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and
Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to
chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less
than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any
combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey,
although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present
government and new laws.
After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied
with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down
and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at
being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities
of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready cooked. Being
rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again
joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders
from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.
It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged
to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing
upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while
conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain
backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether
this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance
with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard,
I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the
fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and
rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered
alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and
introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given
him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up,
and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable
evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.
July 14th.--Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay
me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he
had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and
soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great
beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately
amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre
of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some
volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E. extreme of a range of
mountains running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of that range. The
grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of
the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of
the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the
rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be
of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my
great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from
the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the
bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the
mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I
found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had been carried up into the
mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they
had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of
different shrubs and stunted trees.
After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo,
where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country.
At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful
and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high,
named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are
three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape
and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he
denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked
several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed
to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so
near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or
even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan
priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the
Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling
made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the height
by the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was
quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any
person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid
every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one
of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself
took the other.
The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When
I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the
distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders
that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things,
it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After
descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place,
where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one
of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was
presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all
the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in
which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal
together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry
the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole
resting on the head of the carriers. Six men are generally appointed
to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem
impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to
carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is
very small in comparison with English oxen.
The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They
throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough
gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is
cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from
such usage.
After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the
merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness
I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles
of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to
the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent
old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour,
accompanying me.
Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain
to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my
friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our
perilous descent. At the foot of the mountain we entered another town
of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought
round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to
ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I
found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in
Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets,
and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses,
neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry
officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured
here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes.
The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned
measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.E. when the observer
is placed on the N.E. end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.E., distant
by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley
S.E. Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the
place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined
armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman
army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined
armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a kingdom
in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong.
These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and
threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army
of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in
numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings
fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded
the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three
moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three
kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that
which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.
The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie
is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the
mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as
follows:--
1. Kpatchie.[4]
2. Bleedjado.
3. Annagoonoo.
4. Dawie.
5. Dyenyho.
6. Dosou say Footoh.
7. Zayso avarahoo.
8. Bayo Bozway.
9. Dogano.[5]
10. Mapossay.[6]
11. Awenoo.[7]
12. Bokava.
13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife.
14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son.
12 P.M.--We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, bearing
west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived there. We
were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his principal
wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed with bows
and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept up a constant
irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. The caboceer
and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of cowries, fixed
to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, and about
the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were equipped
similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a very quick,
active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jealous
of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to Baffo.
Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied
with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed
of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s
principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is
customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink
water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me
till he got intoxicated, when I advised him to return home, which
recommendation he immediately adopted.
In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town,
taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a
crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the
natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very
large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast,
black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful
birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical
birds of Africa are migratory.
We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very
pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the
rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The
town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great
variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk
cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here.
The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many
beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and
the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour.
A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant, bearing a very
delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar
to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little
flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the
teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder.
This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey
commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first
time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion,
caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along
the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is
nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated
atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I
cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the
end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for
many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were
pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded
over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier
days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow.
Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking
how much gratification I should have felt had any of my old friends
and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed
my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and
obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo.
I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The
Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea
corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant;
tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod,
both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green
grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit,
much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant
here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the
size of a walnut.
Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean
in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more
numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of
the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching
my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable
streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities,
some streams being impregnated with iron, others with magnesia.
Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.
After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I
returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting
us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my
liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as
regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum,
which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by
the natives, excepting peto.
I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish
very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he
assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest
man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late
hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the
fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were
very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I
should see whether any alteration took place in him.
July 15th.--Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his
morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending
me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the
principal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an
ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the
Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself.
In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young
wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many
of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their
divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable,
he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the
market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view
of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted
to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods
round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives
dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but
it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed
by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course
the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller.
The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for
sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception
of European manufactured goods: these, however, are very limited,
tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I
only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth
is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even
seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating
with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to
consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I
offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of
the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace
and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.
About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman
attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty
persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of
kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent
of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having
an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but
this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of
jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so
that high words ensued.
Although no preparation was made for our dinner, for I had remained at
Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with
the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable
friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises,
as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This
certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie
being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which
Baffo is situated.
A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting
them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since
I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both
parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner
we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on
the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed
a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great
Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is
very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it,
it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most
daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy myself
with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.
Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species,
some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some
horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male
of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly
three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age.
Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous
is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other,
except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their
resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant,
but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow
colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter,
and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The
natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.
A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of
narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon
had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to
elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to
make it appear that he had shot it, destroyed part of the head before
presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was
not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion,
as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a
hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball,
he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave
him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and
sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked
him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the
paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his
companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing.
I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a
matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him
another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against
a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer
seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen
of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably
that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to
hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree,
which created some considerable surprise amongst the soldiers who
accompanied me.
Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground,
apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of
his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of
its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short
distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and
in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in
about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred
yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely
venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I
left Whydah.
Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently
worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to
be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his
present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed,
therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him
a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place
I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now
suffering much from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of
terminating fatally.
In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who
was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at
the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that
I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the
caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an
opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health
of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum,
for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning.
The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye,
though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain
of my guard was present.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his
surname.
[3] The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.
[4] Caboceer.
[5] Brother to the caboceer.
[6] Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.
[7] Second in command of the soldiers.