[Illustration:
From a Sketch by Duncan. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.
MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS
CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD.]
TRAVELS
IN WESTERN AFRICA,
1845 & 1846,
COMPRISING
A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH,
THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY,
TO ADOFOODIA,
IN THE INTERIOR.
BY JOHN DUNCAN,
LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE
LATE NIGER EXPEDITION.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1847.
LONDON:
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its
Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity
Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa, or
Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The
Plain set on fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley of
Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic
Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by the
Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons of
the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds
of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with
the Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The
Markets--Guinea Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native
Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration
of my Sword--Review of native Soldiers--Population. PAGE 1
CHAPTER II.
The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant--Presents--Names of
Caboceer, &c.--Granite Mountains--Tanks--The Adita--Soil--The
Tawee--Mountains--Grain and Vegetables--The Zoglogbo
Mountain--Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo--Ascent
of the Mountain--Cotton-trees--Mountain-pass--Singular
Situation of the Town--Houses--Dahoman Political Agent--Probable
Origin of the Mountain--Kpaloko Mountain--Ignorance,
assumed or real, of the neighbouring Country by the
Natives--The Dabadab Mountains--Superstition--Singular
Method of conveying Cattle--Cruelty to the Brute Creation--Difficult
Descent--Agriculture and Manufactures--Height of
the Mountains--Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo--Names of
the Caboceer, &c.--Reception at Baffo--Costume of Caboceer
and his Wife--His Principal Wives--Beautiful Birds--Gigantic
Trees--Parasitical Plants--Singular Tree--Soil--Grain, Fruits,
&c.--Cattle--Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer--Goods
exposed for Sale--Rival Caboceers--Game--Pigeon-trap--Trial
of Skill--Dog poisoned--Increasing Illness of my Servant--The
Caboceer’s principal Cook 27
CHAPTER III.
The River Loto--Jokao Mountain--Jetta--Reception by the
Caboceer--Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko--Its curious Formation--Its
former Importance on account of its Manufactures--Desolating
Effects of War--Attachment of the Natives
to particular Spots--Natural Tanks in the Mountains--Mount
Koliko--Precipitous Granite Rock--Similarity to Scottish
Scenery--The Nanamie--Laow, and the Laow Mountain--Kossieklanan
Cascade--Tamargee Mountains--Mineral Spring--Mount
Koglo--Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer--Whagba--Caboceer’s
Hospitality--the Town--Inhabitants--Kindness
of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo--War-Dance--Drunkenness--Names
of the Caboceer, &c.--Game--Curious Pigeons--An
Incident--Absurd Notion--Departure from Whagba--Names
of the Caboceer, &c.--Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow
and Massey--Beautiful Valley--Impregnable Position--The
Caboceer of Kpaloko--Grandeur of the Scene--Jeka Houssoo--The
Dabadab Mountains--Difficulty in obtaining Information--Resolve
to leave my Attendants--My Scheme--Departure--Zafoora--Soil,
Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.--Shea-butter used for Lamps 55
CHAPTER IV.
Zafoora--Terror of the Natives--Cold Reception by the King--My
Disappointment--Exorbitant Charge--Unpleasant Position--Palaver
with the King--Scene of the Defeat of the
Dahomans--Inhospitality--The Shea-butter, and other Trees--The
Gwbasso--Prevalent Diseases--Soil--The Velvet
Tamarind--Wearisome Journey--Akwaba--Cold Reception
by the Caboceer--His Disappointment--Slave Trade--Hard
Bargain--Manufacture of Indigo--Hardware--The Ziffa--King
Chosee and his Cavalry--Their Hostile Attitude--Moment
of Danger--Result of a Firm Demeanour--Respect
shown by the King and Natives--Enter Koma with a Band of
Music--Kind Reception--Introduction to the King’s Wives--Palaver
with the King--The Niger known here as the Joleeba--Presents
to the King--Babakanda--Exorbitant Charges for
Provisions--Manufactures--Ginger, Rice, &c.--Seka--Bustle
of the Caboceer--Slave Market--Trade Monopolized by the
Caboceer--The Kolla-nut--Honey--Peto--Palaver with the
Caboceer--Soil--Assofoodah--Hostile Reception--Palaver--Ridiculous
Confusion--Inhospitality 80
CHAPTER V.
Inhospitality--Good Fortune--Soil--Mahomedan Town--Hymn
of Welcome--The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.--Manufactures,
&c.--The Crown-bird domesticated--Quampanissa--Market Day--Curiosity
of the Natives--A Cranery--Market Constables, their
Functions--Singular Musical Instrument--A Palaver with the
Caboceer--Bidassoa--Mishap--A Bivouac--Reception by the Caboceer--Palm
Wine freely taken by Mahomedans--Superstition of the Natives--Grain
Stores--Manufactures--Buffaloes--Fruit Trees--Horses, their market
price here--Cattle--Elephants--Manufactures--Game--Method
of Drying Venison--Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.--Kosow--Terror
of the Native Females--Appearance of the Caboceer--Palaver--Presents
to the Caboceer--His Harem--Swim across the River Ofo--Its Width,
&c.--The Town of Kasso-Kano--Slave-Market--The Women--Neighbouring
Hills--Iron--Antimony--Native System of smelting Ore--Native
Furnace and Bellows--Roguery--Bivouac 108
CHAPTER VI.
Peculiar Breed of Dogs--The Town of Zabakano--Market Day--Native
Manufactures--Domestic Slaves--Palm Oil--Joleeba, or Niger--Horses
make part of the Family--Pelican Nest--Pigeons--Kindness
of the Gadadoo--Pigeon Shooting--Palaver
with the Gadadoo--Population--Mounted Soldiers--Character
of the Scenery--Grooba--Manufactures--The
Town of Sagbo--Drilling System general here--Two sorts
of Rice--Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp--Palaver--Dromedary
and Elephant--Prevalent Diseases--The
Town of Jakee--Reception--Ancient Custom--Breakfast of
the Natives--Manufactures--Terror of the Natives--Chalybeate
Springs--The River Jenoo--The Land Tortoise--Interesting Panorama--The
Town of Kallakandi--Reception by the Sheik--Palaver--Band of
Musicians--Peculiar Instruments--Manufactures, &c.--Slave
Market--Horses--Laws--Cruel Punishment--Population--Attack on a
Boa-Constrictor--Manufactures--Deer--Method of Preserving Meat and
Fish--Trap for Wild Animals--Town of Ongo--Reception by the
Caboceer--Interesting Aspect of the Country 136
CHAPTER VII.
Ongo--Weariness of my Attendants--Bivouac--Alarm of my
Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts--Terror of the
Natives--Their Kindness--Establishment for Mahomedan
Converts--Singular Custom--My Anxiety to find Terrasso-weea,
who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park--Loss of my
Sand-glass--Its Construction--Adofoodia--The Market-Place--Reception
by the King--Interview with Terrasso-weea--Ceremony of welcoming
me--His Stores--Discovery of an Old Acquaintance--Narrative of his
Adventures--Terrasso-weea’s House--His Wives--Inquire of him
Particulars of the Fate of Mungo Park--His Relation of the Death
of that Intrepid Traveller--Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of
it--Park’s Property seized by the King--His Despotic Character--Flight
of Terrasso-weea--My Palaver with the King--Hospitality
of the Merchant--Information obtained respecting
Timbuctoo--Market of Adofoodia 163
CHAPTER VIII.
Return to Baffo--Anxiety of my Caboceer--Rejoicings for my
Return--Our March--Fine Plain--Plants--Neutral Ground--Natives
of the Dassa Mountains--Agriculture--The Annagoos,
dangerous Enemies--Poisoned Arrows--Poisonous Plants--Alarm
of my Attendants on my plucking it--Fatal Effects of
this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives--Number of the
Natives Blind, supposed to be the result of it--Unsuccessful
Attack on them by the Dahomans--Spiral Rocks--Hostile
Demeanour of the Natives--They follow us with Menaces--Some
Account of these Mountaineers and of the Dassa Mountains--The
Blue Eagle--Cataracts--Beautiful Plain--One
of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier--Twisted Marble of Variegated
Colours--Path covered with Pepper-trees--Monkeys--Logazohy--Mayho’s
Town--The Caboceer--The Merchants--Their Names--Carelessness with
respect to Fire--Visit of the Caboceer 190
CHAPTER IX.
Enter Logazohy in Regimentals--Received by the Caboceer,
attended by his Soldiers--Singular Mode of Dancing--Native
Jester--Description of the Town--Corn Mills--Presents from
Fetish-women--Agriculture--Prevalent Diseases--A disgusting
Case of Leprosy--Quarrel among my Carriers--My Illness--The
Damadomy--Trees, Shrubs--The Agbado--Rapid Construction of a
Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman Guards--Savalu--Reception by the
Caboceer--Picturesque Situation of the Town--Caboceer’s House--His
Wives--His Jester--My Illness 210
CHAPTER X.
Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu--Curiosity of the natives--State
Constables--Military Dance--Introduction to the
Fetish-women--Manufactures--Crane-shooting--Present by
Fetish-women--Hospitality of the Caboceer--His Name and those of
his Head Men--Wild Grapes--The Zoka--Shrubs--Swim
across the Zoka--Mode of Transporting my Luggage--Difficulty
in getting my Horse across--Fearlessness of the
Dahoman Female Carriers--Bad Roads--Jallakoo--Reception
by the Caboceer--My Illness--Appear in Regimentals before
the Caboceer--Concern evinced on account of my Illness--Description
of the Town--Agriculture--Caboceer’s Name and
those of his Head Men--Presents to the Caboceer 229
CHAPTER XI.
My continued Illness--The Koffo--The Langhbo--Bivouac--Keep
Sentinel--Shea-butter Trees--Springs impregnated with
Iron--Gijah--Poverty of the Caboceer--Hospitality of Atihoh,
the Merchant--Doko--Met by the Avoga of Whydah--Etiquette
with regard to the Time of entering a Town--Enter
Abomey--My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed--Sudden
Change in the Temperature--Visit to the King--His Gratification
at my safe Return--My Conversation with his Majesty--His Views with
regard to the Slave Trade--His Desire to cede Whydah to the English
Government--Dictates a Letter to me to that effect--His costly
Tobes--Singular Piece of Patch-Work 253
CHAPTER XII.
Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued--Visit Coomassie,
another Palace of the King--Great Number of Human
Skulls--Skulls of Kings taken in Battle--Death-drums--Peculiarity
of Skulls--Craniums of the Fellattahs--Skulls of
Rival Kings--Criminal Case heard by the King, and his
Award--Death of my Servant Maurice--Regret of the King--Christian
Burial of my Servant--The King’s Kindness to me--My
increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits--Method of Procuring
Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers--My Alarm
at the Dangerous State of my Wound--Make Preparations to amputate my
Limb--My Recovery--My Last Conversation with the King--The King’s
Presents to the Queen of England--Present from him to her Majesty of
a Native Girl--Escorted out of Abomey, and Departure for
Whydah--Absurd Custom--Canamina--Ahgrimah--My Pigeons from the Kong
Mountains--Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers--Punishment
awarded them for their Roguery on their Arrival 273
CHAPTER XIII.
Akpway--Superstition of the Natives--Singular proceeding of
my Bullock-Drivers--Arrival at Whydah--Kind Reception by
Don Francisco de Suza--Kindness of all the Merchants--Parting
Interview with M. de Suza--Sail for Cape Coast--Terror of the Mahee
Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea--Arrival
at Cape Coast--Kindness of Mr. Hutton--Dr. Lilley--Recover from my
Fever--Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries--General Character of
Africans--Hints with regard to Educating them--Observations on the
Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah
Countries--Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey--The
Dahomans--Trade of Dahomey--Paganism--The Mahees--The Kong
Mountains--Sail for England 293
ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.
MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMEY _To face the Title._
THE KONG MOUNTAINS, IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF LOGAZOHY p. 219
Wood Cuts.
STATE CHAIR OF THE KING OF DAHOMEY 272
THE KING’S STAFF 272
TRAVELS
IN
WESTERN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
The Zafidah Mountains--Zoogah--Reception by the Caboceer--Bamay--Its
Market--Curiosity of the People--Population--The Davity
Mountains--Daragow--Qualifications for a Caboceer--The River Zoa,
or Lagos--Its wooded Banks--Ferry--Superstition--Water-lilies--The
Plain set on Fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.--Valley
of Dimodicea-takoo--Kootokpway--Gbowelley Mountain--Romantic
Scenery--Hospitable Reception--The Mahees--Their total Defeat by
the Dahomans--Ascent of the Mountain--Ruins of a Town--Skeletons
of the Slain--Soil--Twisted Rock--Mineral Springs--Agbowa--Herds
of Cattle--Paweea, its healthy Situation--Palaver with the
Caboceer--Description of him--His Hospitality--The Markets--Guinea
Corn--Natives good Farmers--Cloth Manufacture--Native
Loom--Hardware--Hyæna Trap--Admiration of my Sword--Review of native
Soldiers--Population.
July 11th.--We marched from Setta at 8 A.M., the first high land
bearing from the north side of the town N. 25° E., and named the
Zafidah mountains, distant about twelve miles. These mountains form
the western extremity of a range, running as far to the eastward as
the eye can reach. The path led directly to these mountains, and the
surrounding country was of a beautiful champaign character, studded at
considerable intervals with trees of various descriptions.
About half a mile from Setta, and journeying N.E., we crossed a fine
brook with a waterfall. The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz,
in immense detached blocks, the brook running eastward. Close to this
ford is a small kroom, called Zoogah; and although we had come so
short a distance the old patriarch or caboceer had provided plenty of
provisions for myself and private servants, with water and peto. The
poor man also presented me with several fowls. He told me that the
people of his small town had made a subscription and purchased these
fowls to offer to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a present,
although they were anxious to show their good feeling towards the
King’s white stranger. He had told them what I had said at Setta to
the old woman (for he was present on that occasion) who presented me
with the two eggs. The kindness shown towards me now formed a perfect
contrast to that which I had experienced on the coast, where the
character and disposition of the people are vile. I gave the caboceer
some needles and thimbles, with directions to distribute them amongst
his people.
At four miles from this place we arrived at a small kroom of about
three hundred inhabitants, called Bamay. Here is a good market, which
is held weekly: it happened to be held on this day. The caboceer was
waiting in the market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur. Here
we had plenty of good water and provisions. The caboceer seemed highly
delighted at receiving a visit from a white man, and introduced me
to all his head men and principal wives. The people assembled in the
market-place all came running, pushing each other aside, with eager
curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the market, which is shaded with
large trees, called by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling
cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe; kao (saltpetre
in its original state) which is found in the mountains; different
sorts of grain produced in the country; tobacco, and pipes made at
Badagry, much resembling the head of the German pipe, but of red clay;
shalots and vegetables of various sorts for soups, and also manioc
or cassada-root ready cooked; with yams, plantains, and bananas,
oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo
and pepper; snuff is also sold here. Butcher’s meat is exposed for
sale early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly it is cooked
in the market-place, to prevent putrefaction. Sheep and goats are sold
in the market, but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock in the
market in any part of Africa, except at Tangiers. Fowls and eggs, and
agricultural implements of various descriptions, are also sold in all
the markets of any magnitude in this part of the country. Here the land
is well cultivated, and the crops are very good.
This kroom contains about six hundred inhabitants, who are evidently of
a different tribe to the people of Whydah. They are much better formed
and more nimble, and apparently more capable of enduring fatigue than
the natives on the coast. After distributing some small presents and
some rum to the caboceer, we resumed our journey.
At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic) E.S.E. the Davity
mountains are seen. These mountains form a range extending from east
to west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are separated by a
narrow plain from another range of mountains, distant about two miles.
Both ranges are of conical or hogback character. At the distance of
four miles and a half we reached Daragow, a small kroom of about three
hundred inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the caboceer, whose name
was Badykpwa, a fine stout old man of about fifty-five years of age.
The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in nearly all the kingdoms
and petty states of Western and Central Africa, are, that he should
be tall and stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many African
kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by the length and thickness of the
beard.
At six miles we reached the banks of the river Zoa, here forty yards
wide and seven feet deep. It is very muddy, for it is now the rainy
season. Large blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed of the
river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The current is about two miles
per hour, running (magnetic) E.S.E. The banks are thirty feet deep,
and wooded on each bank with trees of gigantic size, whose enormous
roots extend in all directions. The greater number of these roots run
along the surface, in most cases crossing and re-crossing each other,
presenting the appearance of network. Their trunks are buttressed
all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At about eight feet from
the ground the buttresses, which so far are straight, break off in
different directions, crossing each other around the trunk, like a
number of large serpents wattled across each other. I did not observe
any trees of the same description at a distance from the rivers.
At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is left here for the use
of passengers. By order of the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying
goods are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here we were detained
for some time, the canoe not being capable of conveying more than ten
persons without luggage at a time. I remained till all the party had
been ferried over, except the caboceer, or captain, and the other
principal officers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain begged me
to sit in the bottom of the canoe with my face towards the stern, so
that in crossing I was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated with him
on the absurdity of doing so, he declared it to be “bad fetish” for any
great man in crossing water to look in the direction he is proceeding,
assuring me also that he was answerable for my safety, and that should
anything of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should be severely
punished, or if any thing should occur to my personal injury he should
lose his head. When I found the poor fellow, who was under these
restrictions, felt distressed at the observations I had made, I readily
assented to all his instructions and directions. My little horse swam
across, tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in getting it
across.
This river is the same as the river Lagos at Badagry on the coast,
although here called the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over Africa
where I have yet been. I am also informed that this same river has two
other distinct names, between this place and the place where it takes
the name of Lagos, which fully accounts for many supposed errors of our
travellers, as well as many errors in fact.
Our party having now all safely crossed the river, we immediately
resumed our journey amongst thickets of underwood scarcely passable,
the bushes having closed in and across the path, and joined over the
narrow sheep-track for such it really was. After travelling half a
mile, the path became more open, and we suddenly came upon a small lake
or pond, apparently of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily
sprinkled over its surface. The sight of these beautiful flowers,
coming upon us so unexpectedly, created a very pleasing sensation, for
they were exactly the same as the water-lily of England.
The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less
irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been
recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was
informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the
extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of
destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable,
and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree,
which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed
its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no
cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and
a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running
to the eastward.
At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my
guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of
various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a
partridge’s wing, were at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now
begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed
quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had
crossed the Zoa.
At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running
eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a
stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed
to NN.W., passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the
western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot,
and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred
inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division
between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains,
at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high
mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed
to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we
had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the
character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a
number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of
character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned
of our approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path
awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our
refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part,
I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here
the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the
mountains.
The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches
in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent
manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the
King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey
during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter
place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my
treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched
orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s
orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized
respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had
given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my
treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah,
and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender
to the Dahomans.
The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy
part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance
against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having
possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures
and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances.
Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their
besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and
were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains
at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest
season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these
mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they
can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with
the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to
surrender to their enemies, at discretion.
These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other
produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though
in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use
the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of
firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The old caboceer and my
guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley
and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers
were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred
individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have
perished.
After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and
my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the
mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I
should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not
wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer
took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up;
and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip.
In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures,
with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous
amongst the branches.
After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of
the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town.
This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of
war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human
skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls
of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been
used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater
part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of
the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and
described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description.
The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with
those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with
bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;[1] and
the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its
effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even
while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the
remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very
probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this
mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or
patakoo, the name given to it by the natives.
This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep,
composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from
another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle
of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are
very steep,--in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the
plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains.
After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party
refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of
intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor
man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay
his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some
small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our
journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents.
Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak,
which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived
after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed
walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled
him to ride.
The path was now very deeply worn with the heavy rains, a stream
pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving
only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant.
The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in
the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.W.). The plain at
intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some
round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have
observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable
soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and
resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron
rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its
own level while in a state of fusion.
The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I
observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica
in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition
of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble,
of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the
caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some
considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie
and peto. We again stopped for some time, and made inquiry respecting
the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any
information respecting any other locality than their own immediate
vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a
small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed
our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully
impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is
beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities,
and numerous small brooks.
The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is
much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this
locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular
rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in
one year.
At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we
changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with
water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty
miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east.
At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance
of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in
Africa where I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some
Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height,
the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle,
sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as
well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove
abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and
villages.
At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large
town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with
several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the
caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and
accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with
the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the
surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer
here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding
mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly
seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast.
The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us
into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under
several large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we
seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the
King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash
of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was
passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony
was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far
distant.
The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently
I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a
fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and
manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples,
narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head
the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however,
possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and
appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us.
Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for
myself and people.
After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the
principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon
this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and distributed
amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so
fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting
England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative,
and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his
own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of
course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality.
In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the
coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor,
and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing
about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which
was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired.
July 12th.--Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer
with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments,
desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the
messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat
train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small
calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and
a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled
forms a gelatinous substance, and is very strengthening. This dish
is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted
to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left
yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present
of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was
an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when
I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I
presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned
home rejoicing.
After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk round his town with
him--seeming anxious to gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of
the King’s stranger. This was just what I wished, as I was anxious to
acquire as much information as possible during the short time I had to
spare. Accordingly we visited the markets, which were well supplied
with provisions and articles of manufacture. I noticed amongst other
things some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native cloth, of various
quality and colours, was exposed for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very
abundant in the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets in all the
towns in the vicinity. It is used as medicine, and, as in England, is
much in requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various species are
sold in the market, also nuts of various sorts, as well as different
kinds of beans and peas. Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood,
and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester bushel. The corn is
now nearly ripe, and some of the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet
high, so that the town is entirely concealed until the fence, which
invariably encloses the African towns on the plain, is passed. The
prickly bush at Abomey is planted like a double hedge round the town,
and is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it would seem a
matter of impossibility ever to break through it. The female soldiers
of Dahomey, however, as I have already mentioned, are capable of taking
one of these towns with apparently little trouble.
The owners of the numerous herds of cattle keep them in folds or pens
in the town, and the dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent
farmers, even in this remote part, where they never can have had
intercourse with any civilized being. They also manufacture very
good cloth, although their method is certainly tedious, the thread
being spun by the distaff, and their loom being of a very simple
construction, though upon the same principle as our linen looms in
England. Their web is necessarily narrow, not exceeding six inches. As
they have not yet found out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand
the reel through the shade from one side to the other in putting in the
weft; and instead of treadles to set the foot upon, they use two loops,
which are suspended from the treadles, into which they put their big
toes, which act upon the same principle as the treadle. The warp is not
rolled round a beam, as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length,
and the farther end is made fast to a large stone or heavy substance,
which is gradually drawn towards the weaver as he progresses in his
work.
Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and is worked with
considerable skill. Their implements for agricultural purposes are much
superior to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet potatoes, yams,
and manioc or cassada, are cultivated here with great success.
The different articles sold in the market are nearly the same as I have
already mentioned at Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a patakoo or
large hyæna trap, from the simplicity of its construction. It is about
twenty feet long and two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong.
The trap is constructed upon the same principle as some of those used
in England for catching various sorts of vermin without destroying or
injuring them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage in the trap, at
the farthest extremity from the entrance, and the hyæna, or panther,
(whichever may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of the
kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on a board with a string
attached, the other end of which is connected with a trigger which
suspends a sliding door. Upon the trigger being pulled, the sliding
door immediately drops and incloses the animal. It is then sometimes
maimed or baited with dogs.
Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned to our quarters, when it
was soon afterwards brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three
goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which were served up in
excellent style, with plenty of dabadab and kankie, and round balls
of cakes made with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together with
abundance of peto.
After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to see me in uniform,
and wished also that the ceremony of receiving me on entering his town
should be repeated as the King’s stranger, similar to my reception on
the previous evening. This requisition was not very agreeable to me, as
my white man Maurice was still very ill and in low spirits. However, I
prepared myself soon after dinner, and mounted my little charger. The
caboceer examined my horse and accoutrements very minutely, as also
my appointments. My sword, large knife, as they called it, excited
much admiration from its brightness, and above all, for its pliability
in bending and again resuming its original form. Their short swords
are made of iron, but have no spring in them. He next examined my
double-barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the percussion
caps, believing that the cap alone was also the charge, no doubt from
its loud report. After explaining it to him, he seemed much gratified.
We then proceeded out of the town, one half of my guard in front,
and the other in my rear, with the caboceer’s soldiers in rear of
the whole, one half of whom were armed with bows and arrows. After
proceeding about half a mile from the town into an open piece of ground
not planted with corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham fight,
which, although it did not display any great complication of manœuvres,
was interesting from the quickness of their motions, and significant
gestures.
After the review was over, we returned to the market-place, when all my
soldiers commenced dancing. This was kept up alternately by my guard,
and the soldiers belonging to the town. In this country each caboceer
invariably keeps a clown or jester, many of whom are clever and amusing
on account of their ready wit. After the dance, which lasted about two
hours, I gave each of the party some rum, which is always expected
on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters, accompanied by the
caboceer, who seemed very anxious to maintain a friendly conversation,
evidently with a view to obtain information on general topics. He
remained till a late hour, when he retired to his home, leaving me once
more to enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen, and to take
notes for my Journal.
The town of Paweea contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants. They
seem rather an industrious race in comparison with those near the
coast. Here, as well as in most other towns in the neighbourhood, the
mechanic is very much esteemed on account of his craft, but especially
the blacksmith, who in their own language is called a cunning man,
ranking next to the fetish-man or priest. The soil round this place is
a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered, consequently, the crops
are abundant, and the people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but
little labour. They seem a very happy race, and well satisfied with
their present government and laws, which, previous to their subjection
to the King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in the extreme. This
town has two strong gates on the south-east and north-west sides, which
are closed at sunset, and guarded by soldiers or watchmen, who take
that duty in turn.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers, that I
have had a large quantity taken from a very severe wound I received
when in the Niger expedition. Dr. Williams and Dr. Thompson can
corroborate my assertion. The African fly blows live maggots instead of
eggs.