Then is the parish church of St. Mary Aldermanbury, a fair church,

with a churchyard, and cloister adjoining; in the which cloister is

hanged and fastened a shank-bone of a man (as is said), very great,

and larger by three inches and a half than that which hangeth in St.

Lawrence church in the Jury, for it is in length twenty-eight inches

and a half of assise, but not so hard and steele-like as the other,

for the same is light, and somewhat pory and spongy. This bone is said

to be found amongst the bones of men removed from the charnel-house of

Powles, or rather from the cloister of Powles church; of both which

reports I doubt, for that the late Reyne Wolfe, stationer (who paid for

the carriage of those bones from the charnel to the Morefields), told

me of some thousands of carrie loads and more to be conveyed, whereof

he wondered, but never told me of any such bone in either place to be

found; neither would the same have been easily gotten from him if he

had heard thereof, except he had reserved the like for himself, being

the greatest preserver of antiquities in those parts for his time.[219]

True it is, that this bone (from whence soever it came) being of a man

(as the form showeth), must needs be monstrous, and more than after the

proportion of five shank-bones of any man now living amongst us.

There lie buried in this church--Simon Winchcombe, esquire, 1391; Robert

Combarton, 1422; John Wheatley, mercer, 1428; Sir William Estfild,

knight of the bath, mayor 1438, a great benefactor to that church, under

a fair monument: he also built their steeple, changed their old bells

into five tuneable bells, and gave one hundred pounds to other works of

that church. Moreover, he caused the Conduit in Aldermanbury, which he

had begun, to be performed at his charges, and water to be conveyed by

pipes of lead from Tyborne to Fleet street, as I have said: and also

from High Berie to the parish of St. Giles without Cripplegate, where

the inhabitants of those parts incastellated the same in sufficient

cisterns. John Midleton, mercer, mayor 1472; John Tomes, draper, 1486;

William Bucke, tailor, 1501; Sir William Browne, mayor 1507; Dame

Margaret Jeninges, wife to Stephen Jeninges, mayor 1515; a widow named

Starkey, sometime wife to Modie; Raffe Woodcock, grocer, one of the

sheriffs 1586; Dame Mary Gresham, wife to Sir John Gresham, 1538; Thomas

Godfrey, remembrancer of the office of the first fruits, 1577.

Beneath this church have ye Gay spur lane, which runneth down to London

wall, as is afore showed. In this lane, at the north end thereof, was

of old time a house of nuns; which house being in great decay, William

Elsing, mercer, in the year of Christ 1329, the 3rd of Edward III.,

began in place thereof the foundation of an hospital for sustentation

of one hundred blind men; towards the erection whereof he gave his

two houses in the parishes of St. Alphage, and our Blessed Lady in

Aldermanbury, near Cripplegate.[220] This house was after called a

priory, or hospital, of St. Mary the Virgin, founded in the year 1332 by

W. Elsing, for canons regular; the which William became the first prior

there. Robert Elsing, son to the said William, gave to the hospital

twelve pounds by the year, for the finding of three priests: he also

gave one hundred shillings towards the inclosing of the new churchyard

without Aldgate, and one hundred shillings to the inclosing of the new

churchyard without Aldersgate; to Thomas Elsing, his son, eighty pounds,

the rest of his goods to be sold and given to the poor. This house,

valued £193 15_s._ 5_d._, was surrendered the eleventh of May, the 22nd

of Henry VIII.

The monuments that were in this church defaced:--Thomas Cheney, son to

William Cheney; Thomas, John, and William Cheney; John Northampton,

draper, mayor 1381; Edmond Hungerford; Henry Frowike; Joan, daughter to

Sir William Cheney, wife to William Stoke; Robert Eldarbroke, esquire,

1460; Dame Joan Ratcliffe; William Fowler; William Kingstone; Thomas

Swineley, and Helen his wife, etc. The principal aisle of this church

towards the north was pulled down, and a frame of four houses set up

in place: the other part, from the steeple upward, was converted into

a parish church of St. Alphage; and the parish church which stood

near unto the wall of the city by Cripplesgate was pulled down, the

plot thereof made a carpenter’s yard, with saw-pits. The hospital

itself, the prior and canons’ house, with other lodgings, were made a

dwelling-house; the churchyard is a garden plot, and a fair gallery on

the cloister; the lodgings for the poor are translated into stabling for

horses.

In the year 1541, Sir John Williams, master of the king’s jewels,

dwelling in this house on Christmas even at night, about seven of the

clock, a great fire began in the gallery thereof, which burned so sore,

that the flame firing the whole house, and consuming it, was seen all

the city over, and was hardly quenched, whereby many of the king’s

jewels were burnt, and more embezzled (as was said).[221] Sir Rowland

Heyward, mayor, dwelt in this Spittle, and was buried there 1593;

Richard Lee, _alias_ Clarenciaux king of arms, 1597.

Now to return to Milk street, so called of milk sold there,[222] there

be many fair houses for wealthy merchants and other; amongst the which

I read, that Gregory Rokesley, chief assay master of the king’s mints,

and mayor of London in the year 1275, dwelt in this Milk street, in a

house belonging to the priory of Lewes in Sussex, whereof he was tenant

at will, paying twenty shillings by the year, without[223] other charge:

such were the rents of those times.

In this Milke street is a small parish church of St. Marie Magdalen,

which hath of late years been repaired. William Browne, mayor 1513, gave

to this church forty pounds, and was buried there; Thomas Exmew, mayor

1528, gave forty pounds, and was buried there; so was John Milford, one

of the sheriffs, 1375; John Olney, mayor 1475; Richard Rawson, one of

the sheriffs 1476; Henry Kelsey; Sir John Browne, mayor 1497; Thomas

Muschampe, one of the sheriffs 1463; Sir William Cantilo, knight,

mercer, 1462; Henry Cantlow, mercer, merchant of the Staple, who built

a chapel, and was buried there 1495; John West, alderman, 1517; John

Machell, alderman, 1558; Thomas Skinner, clothworker, mayor 1596.

Then next is Wood street, by what reason so called I know not. True it

is, that of old time, according to a decree made in the reign of Richard

I., the houses in London were built of stone for defence of fire; which

kind of building was used for two hundred years or more, but of later

time for the winning of ground taken down, and houses of timber set up

in place. It seemeth therefore that this street hath been of the latter

building, all of timber (for not one house of stone hath been known

there), and therefore called Wood street; otherwise it might take the

name of some builder or owner thereof.

Thomas Wood, one of the sheriffs in the year 1491, dwelt there; he was

an especial benefactor towards the building of St. Peter’s church at

Wood street end; he also built the beautiful front of houses in Cheape

over against Wood street end, which is called Goldsmiths’ row, garnished

with the likeness of woodmen; his predecessors might be the first

builders, owners, and namers of this street after their own name.

On the east side of this street is one of the prison houses pertaining

to the sheriffs of London, and is called the Compter in Wood street,

which was prepared to be a prison house in the year 1555; and on the eve

of St. Michael the Archangel, the prisoners that lay in the Compter in

Bread street were removed to this Compter in Wood street. Beneath this

Compter is Lad lane, or Ladle lane, for so I find it of record in the

parish of St. Michaell Wood street; and beneath that is Love lane, so

called of wantons.

By this lane is the parish church of St. Alban, which hath the monuments

of Sir Richard Illingworth, baron of the exchequer; Thomas Chatworth,

grocer, mayor 1443; John Woodcocke, mayor 1405; John Collet, and Alice

his wife; Ralph Thomas; Ralph and Richard, sons of Ralph Illingworth,

which was son to Sir Richard Illingworth, baron of the exchequer;

Thomas, son of Sir Thomas Fitzwilliams; Thomas Halton, mercer, mayor

1450; Thomas Ostrich, haberdasher, 1483; Richard Swetenham, esquire; and

William Dunthorne, town-clerk of London, with this epitaph:

“_Fœlix prima dies postquam mortalibus ævi

Cesserit, hic morbus subit, atque repente senectus

Tum mors, qua nostrum Dunthorn cecidisse Wilelmum.

Haud cuiquam latuisse reor, dignissimus (inquam),

Artibus hic Doctor, nec non celeberrimus hujus,

Clericus Urbis erat, primus, nullique secundus,

Moribus, ingenio, studio, nil dixeris illi,

Quin dederit natura boni, pius ipse modestus,

Longanimus, solers, patiens, super omnia gratus,

Quique sub immensas curas variosque labores,

Anxius atteritur vitæ, dum carpserit auras,

Hoc tetro in tumulo, compostus pace quiescit._”

Simon Morsted; Thomas Pikehurst, esquire; Richard Take; Robert

Ashcombe; Thomas Lovet, esquire, sheriff of Northamptonshire 1491; John

Spare; Katheren, daughter to Sir Thomas Mirley, knight;[224] William

Linchdale, mercer, 1392; John Penie, mercer, 1450; John Thomas, mercer,

1485; Christopher Hawse, mercer, one of the sheriffs 1503; William

Skarborough, vintner; Simon de Berching; Sir John Cheke, knight,

schoolmaster to King Edward VI., deceased 1557; do lie here.

Then is Adle street, the reason of which name I know not, for at this

present it is replenished with fair buildings on both sides; amongst

the which there was sometime the Pinners’ hall, but that company being

decayed, it is now the Plaisterers’ hall.

Not far from thence is the Brewers’ hall, a fair house, which company of

Brewers was incorporated by King Henry VI., in the 16th of his reign,

confirmed by the name of St. Mary and St. Thomas the Martyr, the 19th of

Edward IV.

From the West end of this Adle street, Little Wood street runneth down

to Cripplesgate: and somewhat east from the Sun tavern, against the wall

of the city, is the Curriers’ hall.

Now, on the west side of Wood street, have ye Huggen lane, so called of

one Hugan that of old time dwelt there: he was called Hugan in the lane,

as I have read in the 34th of Edward I. This lane runneth down by the

south side of St. Michael’s church in Wood street, and so growing very

narrow by means of late encroachments to Guthuron’s lane.

The parish church of St. Michael in Wood street is a proper thing, and

lately well repaired. John Ive, parson of this church, John Forster,

goldsmith, and Peter Fikelden, tailor, gave two messuages, and two

shops, with solars, cellars, and other edifices, in the same parish and

street, and in Ladle lane, to the reparations of the church, chancel,

and other works of charity, the 16th of Richard II.

The monuments here be of William Bambrough, the son of Henry Bambrough

of Skardborough, 1392; William Turner, waxchandler, 1400; John Peke,

goldsmith, 1441; William Taverner, girdler, 1454; William Mancer,

ironmonger, 1465; John Nash, 1466, with an epitaph; John Allen,

timbermonger, 1441; Robert Draper, 1500; John Lamberde, draper,

alderman, one of the sheriffs of London, who deceased 1554, and was

father to[225] William Lambarde, esquire, well known by sundry learned

books that he hath published; John Medley, chamberlain of London; John

Marsh, esquire, mercer, and common sergeant of London, etc. There is

also (but without any outward monument) the head of James, the fourth

king of Scots of that name, slain at Flodden field, and buried here by

this occasion: After the battle the body of the said king being found,

was enclosed in lead, and conveyed from thence to London, and so to the

monastery of Shene in Surrey, where it remained for a time, in what

order I am not certain; but since the dissolution of that house, in the

reign of Edward VI., Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk, being lodged, and

keeping house there, I have been shown the same body so lapped in lead,

close to the head and body, thrown into a waste room amongst the old

timber, lead, and other rubble. Since the which time workmen there, for

their foolish pleasure, hewed off his head; and Launcelot Young,[226]

master glazier to her majesty, feeling a sweet savour to come from

thence, and seeing the same dried from all moisture, and yet the form

remaining, with the hair of the head, and beard red, brought it to

London to his house in Wood street, where for a time he kept it for the

sweetness, but in the end caused the sexton of that church to bury it

amongst other bones taken out of their charnel, etc.

I read in divers records of a house in Wood street, then called Black

hall, but no man at this day can tell thereof.

On the north side of this St. Michael’s church is Mayden lane, now so

called, but of old time Ingene lane, or Ing lane. In this lane the

Waxchandlers have their common hall, on the south side thereof; and

the Haberdashers have their like hall on the north side, at Stayning

lane end. This company of the Haberdashers, or Hurrers, of old time so

called, were incorporated a brotherhood of St. Katherine, the 26th of

Henry VI., and so confirmed by Henry VII., the 17th of his reign, the

Cappers and Hat merchants, or Hurrers, being one company of Haberdashers.

Down lower in Wood street is Silver street (I think of silversmiths

dwelling there), in which be divers fair houses.

And on the north side thereof is Monkeswell street, so called of a well

at the north end thereof, where the Abbot of Garendon had a house, or

cell, called St. James in the wall by Cripplesgate, and certain monks of

their house were the chaplains there, wherefore the well (belonging to

that cell, or hermitage) was called Monks’ well, and the street, of the

well, Monkswell street.

The east side of this street, down against London wall, and the south

side thereof to Cripplesgate, be of Cripplesgate ward, as is afore

shown. In this street, by the corner of Monkswell street, is the

Bowyers’ hall. On the east side of Monkswell street be proper alms

houses, twelve in number founded by Sir Ambrose Nicholas, salter, mayor

1575, wherein be placed twelve poor and aged people rent free, having

each of them seven pence the week, and once the year, each of them five

sacks of charcoal, and one quarter of a hundred fagots, of his gift, for

ever.

Then, in Little Wood street be seven proper chambers in an alley on the

west side, founded for seven poor people therein to dwell rent free, by

Henry Barton, skinner, mayor 1416. Thus much for the monuments of this

ward within the walls.

Now, without the postern of Cripplesgate, first is the parish church

of St. Giles, a very fair and large church, lately repaired, after

that the same was burnt in the year 1545, the 37th of Henry VIII., by

which mischance the monuments of the dead in this church are very few:

notwithstanding I have read of these following:--Alice, William, and

John, wife and sons to T. Clarell; Agnes, daughter to Thomas Niter,

gentleman; William Atwell; Felix, daughter to Sir Thomas Gisors, and

wife to Thomas Travars; Thomas Mason, esquire; Edmond Wartar, esquire;

Joan, wife to John Chamberlaine, esquire, daughter to Roger Lewkner;

William Fryer; John Hamberger, esquire; Hugh Moresbye; Gilbert Prince,

alderman; Oliver Cherley, gentleman; Sir John Wright or Writhesley,

_alias_ Garter king-at-arms; Joan, wife to Thomas Writhesley, Garter,

daughter and heir to William Hal, esquire; John Writhesley, the younger,

son to Sir John Writhesley and Alianor; Alianor, second wife to John

Writhesley, daughter and heir to Thomas Arnold, sister and heir to

Richard Arnold, esquire; John, her son and heir; Margaret, with her

daughter; John Brigget; Thomas Ruston, gentleman; John Talbot, esquire,

and Katheren his wife; Thomas Warfle, and Isabel his wife; Thomas

Lucie, gentleman, 1447; Ralph Rochford, knight, 1409; Edmond Watar,

esquire; Elizabeth, wife to Richard Barnes, sister and heir to Richard

Malgrave, esquire, of Essex; Richard Gowre, and John Gowre, esquires;

John Baronie, of Millain, 1546; Sir Henry Grey, knight, son and heir to

George Grey, Earl of Kent, 1562; Reginald Grey, Earl of Kent; Richard

Choppin, tallowchandler, one of the sheriffs 1530; John Hamber, esquire,

1573; Thomas Hanley, _alias_ Clarenciaux king-at-arms; Thomas Busby,

cooper, who gave the Queen’s Head tavern to the relief of the poor in

the parish, 1575; John Whelar, goldsmith, 1575; Richard Bolene, 1563;

William Bolene, 1575; W. Bolene, physician, 1587; Robert Crowley, vicar

there--all these four under one old stone in the choir; the learned John

Foxe, writer of the _Acts and Monuments of the English Church_, 1587;

the skilful Robert Glover, _alias_ Sommerset herald, 1588.

There was in this church of old time a fraternity, or brotherhood, of

Our Blessed Lady, or Corpus Christi, and St. Giles, founded by John

Belancer, in the reign of Edward III., the 35th year of his reign.

Some small distance from the east end of this church is a water conduit,

brought in pipes of lead from Highbery, by John Middleton, one of the

executors to Sir William Eastfield, and of his goods; the inhabitants

adjoining castellated it of their own cost and charges about the year

1483.

There was also a bosse of clear water in the wall of the churchyard,

made at the charges of Richard Whitington, sometimes mayor, and was like

to that of Bilinsgate: of late the same was turned into an evil pump,

and so is clean decayed.

There was also a fair pool of clear water near unto the parsonage, on

the west side thereof, which was filled up in the reign of Henry VI.,

the spring was coped in, and arched over with hard stone, and stairs of

stone to go down to the spring on the bank of the town ditch: and this

was also done of the goods, and by the executors of Richard Whitington.

In White Crosse street King Henry V. built one fair house, and founded

there a brotherhood of St. Giles, to be kept, which house had sometime

been an hospital of the French order, by the name of St. Giles

without Cripplesgate, in the reign of Edward I., the king having the

jurisdiction, and appointing a custos thereof for the precinct of the

parish of St. Giles, etc. patent Richard II., the 15th year; which

hospital being suppressed, the lands were given to the brotherhood for

the relief of the poor.

One alley of divers tenements over against the north wall of St. Giles’

churchyard, was appointed to be alms houses for the poor, wherein they

dwelt rent free, and otherwise were relieved; but the said brotherhood

was suppressed by Henry VIII.; since which time Sir John Gresham, mayor,

purchased the lands, and gave part thereof to the maintenance of a free

school which he had founded at Holt, a market town in Norfolk.

In Red Cross street, on the west side from St. Giles’ churchyard up to

the said cross, be many fair houses built outward, with divers alleys

turning into a large plot of ground, called the Jews’ Garden, as being

the only place appointed them in England, wherein to bury their dead,

till the year 1177, the 24th of Henry II., that it was permitted to

them (after long suit to the king and parliament at Oxford) to have a

special place assigned them in every quarter where they dwelt. This

plot of ground remained to the said Jews till the time of their final

banishment out of England, and is now turned into fair garden plots and

summer-houses for pleasure.

On the east side of this Red Cross street be also divers fair houses,

up to the cross. And there is Beech lane, peradventure so called of

Nicholas de la Beech, lieutenant of the Tower of London, put out of that

office in the 13th of Edward III. This lane stretcheth from the Red

Cross street to White Cross street, replenished, not with beech trees,

but with beautiful houses of stone, brick, and timber. Amongst the which

was of old time a great house, pertaining to the Abbot of Ramsey, for

his lodging when he repaired to the city: it is now called Drewry house,

of Sir Drewe Drewrie, a worshipful owner thereof.

On the north side of this Beech lane, towards White Cross street, the

Drapers of London have lately built eight alms houses of brick and

timber, for eight poor widows of their own company, whom they have

placed there rent free, according to the gift of Lady Askew, widow to

Sir Christopher Askew, sometime draper, and mayor 1533.

Then in Golding lane, Richard Gallard of Islington, esquire, citizen

and painter-stainer of London, founded thirteen alms houses for so many

poor people placed in them rent free; he gave to the poor of the same

alms houses two pence the piece weekly, and a load of charcoal amongst

them yearly for ever: he left fair lands about Islington to maintain

his foundation. Thomas Hayes, sometime chamberlain of London, in the

latter time of Henry VIII., married Elizabeth, his daughter and heir;

which Hayes and Elizabeth had a daughter named Elizabeth, married to

John Ironmonger, of London, mercer, who now hath the order of the alms

people.

On the west side of the Red Cross is a street, called the Barbican,

because sometime there stood, on the north side thereof, a burgh-kenin,

or watch-tower, of the city, called in some language a barbican, as a

bikening is called a beacon; this burgh-kenning, by the name of the

Manor of Base court, was given by Edward III. to Robert Ufford, Earl

of Suffolk, and was lately appertaining to Peregrine Bartie, Lord

Willoughby of Ersby.

Next adjoining to this is one other great house, called Garter house,

sometime built by Sir Thomas Writhe, or Writhesley, knight, _alias_

Garter principal king-of-arms, second son of Sir John Writhe, knight,

_alias_ Garter, and was uncle to the first Thomas, Earl of Southampton,

knight of the Garter, and chancellor of England; he built this house,

and in the top thereof a chapel, which is dedicated by the name of St.

Trinitatis in Alto.

Thus much for that part of Cripplegate ward without the wall, whereof

more shall be spoken in the suburb of that part. This ward hath an

alderman, and his deputy, within the gate, common council eight,

constables nine, scavengers twelve, for wardmote inquest fifteen, and

a beadle. Without the gate it hath also a deputy, common council two,

constables four, scavengers four, wardmote inquest seventeen, and a

beadle. It is taxed in London to the fifteen at forty pound.[227]

FOOTNOTES:

[219] “Reyne Wolf, a grave antiquary, collected the great chronicles,

increased and published by his executors, under the name of Ralph

Holonshead.”--_Stow._

The first edition of Holinshed’s _Chronicles of England, Scotland,

and Ireland_, was printed for John Harrison the elder in 1577. From

Holinshed’s dedicatory epistle to Lord Burleigh, it would seem that

Reginald Wolfe projected and even executed the greater part of the

work, it having “pleased God to call him to his mercie after xxv.

years travail spent therein.” Wolfe, in fact, intended to make these

Chronicles the foundation of “_An Universall Cosmographie of the Whole

World_.”

[220] “Obtaining first the king’s licence of mortmain under the great

seal of England.”--_1st edition_, p. 234.

[221] “The Lord William of Thame was buried in this church, and so was

his successor in that house, Sir Rowland Heyward.”--_1st edition_, p.

235.

[222] “As is supposed.”--_Ibid._

[223] “Without being bounden to reparations or other charge.”--_Ibid._

[224] “John Collet.”--_1st edition_, p. 257.

[225] “My loving friend.”--_1st edition_, p. 238.

[226] “At this present.”--_Ibid._

ALDERSGATE WARD

The next is Aldersgate ward, taking name of that north gate of the city.

This ward also consisteth of divers streets and lanes, lying as well

within the gate and wall as without. And first to speak of that part

within the gate, thus it is.

The east part thereof joineth unto the west part of Cripplegate ward

in Engain lane, or Maiden lane. It beginneth on the north side of that

lane, at Stayning lane end, and runneth up from the Haberdashers’ hall

to St. Mary Staining church, and by the church, east, winding almost to

Wood street; and west through Oate lane, and then by the south side of

Bacon house in Noble street, back again by Lilipot lane, which is also

of that ward, to Maiden lane, and so on that north side west to St. John

Zacharies church, and to Foster lane.

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