that in the year 1215, the 16th of King John,[17] the barons, entering
the city by Aldgate, first took assurance of the citizens, then brake
into the Jews’ houses, searched their coffers to fill their own purses,
and after with great diligence repaired the walls and gates of the
city with stone taken from the Jews’ broken houses. In the year 1257,
Henry III. caused the walls of this city, which were sore decayed and
destitute of towers, to be repaired in more seemly wise than before, at
the common charges of the city. Also in the year 1282,[18] King Edward
I. having granted to Robert Kilwarby, archbishop of Canterbury, license
for the enlarging of the Blackfriars’ church, to break and take down
a part of the wall of the city, from Ludgate to the river of Thames;
he also granted to Henry Wales, mayor, and the citizens of London, the
favour to take, toward the making of the wall and enclosure of the city,
certain customs or toll, as appeareth by his grant. This wall was then
to be made from Ludgate west to Fleet bridge along behind the houses,
and along by the water of the Fleet unto the river of Thames. Moreover,
in the year 1310, Edward II. commanded the citizens to make up the
wall already begun, and the tower at the end of the same wall, within
the water of Thames near unto the Blackfriars, etc. 1328, the 2nd of
Edward III., the walls of this city were repaired. It was also granted
by King Richard II. in the tenth year of his reign, that a toll should
be taken of the wares sold by land or by water for ten years, towards
the repairing of the walls, and cleansing of the ditch about London.
In the 17th of Edward IV. Ralph Joceline, mayor, caused part of the
wall about the city of London to be repaired; to wit, betwixt Aldgate
and Aldersgate. He also caused Moorfield to be searched for clay, and
brick thereof to be made and burnt; he likewise caused chalk to be
brought out of Kent, and to be burnt into lime in the same Moorfield,
for more furtherance of the work. Then the Skinners to begin in the east
made that part of the wall betwixt Aldgate and Bevis Marks, towards
Bishopsgate, as may appear by their arms in three places fixed there:
the mayor, with his company of the Drapers, made all that part betwixt
Bishopsgate and Allhallows church, and from Allhallows towards the
postern called Moorgate. A great part of the same wall was repaired by
the executors of Sir John Crosby, late alderman, as may appear by his
arms in two places there fixed: and other companies repaired the rest
of the wall to the postern of Cripplegate. The Goldsmiths repaired from
Cripplegate towards Aldersgate, and there the work ceased. The circuit
of the wall of London on the land side, to wit, from the Tower of London
in the east unto Aldgate, in 82 perches; from Aldgate to Bishopsgate, 86
perches; from Bishopsgate in the north to the postern of Cripplegate,
162 perches; from Cripplegate to Aldersgate, 75 perches; from Aldersgate
to Newgate, 66 perches; from Newgate in the west to Ludgate, 42 perches;
in all, 513 perches of assize. From Ludgate to the Fleet-dike west,
about 60 perches; from Fleetbridge south to the river Thames, about 70
perches; and so the total of these perches amounteth to 643, every perch
consisting of five yards and a half, which do yield 3536 yards and a
half, containing 10,608 feet, which make up two English miles and more
by 608 feet.
FOOTNOTES:
[12] Whitchendus. Whittichind, a monk of Corvay, who died about the year
1000, wrote a History of the Saxons down to 973, which was published at
Basle by Hervagius in 1532.
[13] Malmesbury, Bede.
[14] Whitchendus, Bede.
[15] Benedict, abbot of Wearmouth.
[16] Asser, Marianus, Florentius.
[17] Roger of Wendover, Matthew Paris, Ranul. Coggeshall.
[18] Matthew Paris.
OF ANCIENT AND PRESENT RIVERS, BROOKS, BOURNS, POOLS, WELLS, AND
CONDUITS OF FRESH WATER, SERVING THE CITY, AS ALSO OF THE DITCH
COMPASSING THE WALL OF THE SAME FOR DEFENCE THEREOF.
Anciently, until the Conqueror’s time, and two hundred years after, the
city of London was watered, besides the famous river of Thames on the
south part, with the river of Wells, as it was then called, on the west;
with the water called Walbrooke running through the midst of the city in
the river of Thames, serving the heart thereof; and with a fourth water
or bourn, which ran within the city through Langborne ward, watering
that part in the east. In the west suburbs was also another great water,
called Oldborne, which had its fall into the river of Wells; then were
there three principal fountains, or wells, in the other suburbs; to wit,
Holy well, Clement’s well, and Clarkes’ well. Near unto this last-named
fountain were divers other wells, to wit, Skinners’ well, Fags’ well,
Tode well, Loder’s well, and Radwell. All which said wells, having the
fall of their overflowing in the aforesaid river, much increased the
stream, and in that place gave it the name of Well. In West Smithfield
there was a pool, in records called Horsepoole, and one other pool near
unto the parish church of St. Giles without Cripplegate. Besides all
which, they had in every street and lane of the city divers fair wells
and fresh springs; and after this manner was this city then served with
sweet and fresh waters, which being since decayed, other means have
been sought to supply the want, as shall be shown. But first of the
aforenamed rivers and other waters is to be said, as following:
Thames, the most famous river of this island, beginneth a little above
a village called Winchcombe, in Oxfordshire; and still increasing,
passeth first by the University of Oxford, and so with a marvellous
quiet course to London, and thence breaketh into the French ocean by
main tides, which twice in twenty-four hours’ space doth ebb and flow
more than sixty miles in length, to the great commodity of travellers,
by which all kind of merchandise be easily conveyed to London, the
principal storehouse and staple of all commodities within this realm;
so that, omitting to speak of great ships and other vessels of burthen,
there pertaineth to the cities of London, Westminster, and borough of
Southwark, above the number, as is supposed, of 2000 wherries and other
small boats, whereby 3000 poor men, at the least, be set on work and
maintained.
That the river of Wells, in the west part of the city, was of old so
called of the wells, it may be proved thus:--William the Conqueror in
his charter to the college of St. Marten le Grand, in London, hath
these words: “I do give and grant to the same church all the land and
the moor without the postern, which is called Cripplegate, on either
part of the postern; that is to say, from the north corner of the wall,
as the river of the Wells, there near running, departeth the same moor
from the wall, unto the running water which entereth the city.”[19] This
water hath long since been called the river of the Wels, which name of
river continued; and it was so called in the reign of Edward I., as
shall be shown, with also the decay of the said river. In a fair book of
parliament records, now lately restored to the Tower, it appeareth[20]
that a parliament being holden at Carlile in the year 1307, the 35th
of Edward I., “Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln, complained, that whereas
in times past the course of water, running at London under Oldborne
bridge and Fleete bridge into the Thames, had been of such breadth and
depth, that ten or twelve ships navies at once, with merchandise, were
wont to come to the foresaid bridge of Fleete, and some of them to
Oldborne bridge: now the same course, by filth of the tanners and such
others, was sore decayed; also by raising of wharfs; but especially,
by a diversion of the water made by them of the new Temple, for their
mills standing without Baynardes Castle, in the first year of King
John,[21] and divers other impediments, so as the said ships could not
enter as they were wont, and as they ought: wherefore he desired that
the mayor of London with the sheriffs and other discreet aldermen, might
be appointed to view the course of the said water; and that by the oaths
of good men, all the aforesaid hindrances might be removed, and it to be
made as it was wont of old. Whereupon Roger le Brabason, the constable
of the Tower, with the mayor and sheriffs, were assigned to take with
them honest and discreet men, and to make diligent search and enquiry
how the said river was in old time, and that they leave nothing that
may hurt or stop it, but keep it in the same state that it was wont to
be.” So far the record. Whereupon it followed that the said river was
at that time cleansed, these mills removed, and other things done for
the preservation of the course thereof, notwithstanding never brought to
the old depth and breadth; whereupon the name of river ceased, and it
was since called a brook, namely, Turnmill or Tremill brook, for that
divers mills were erected upon it, as appeareth by a fair register-book,
containing the foundation of the priory at Clarkenwell, and donation of
the lands thereunto belonging, as also divers other records.
This brook hath been divers times since cleansed, namely, and last of
all to any effect, in the year 1502, the 17th of Henry VII., the whole
course of Fleete dike, then so called, was scowered, I say, down to the
Thames, so that boats with fish and fuel were rowed to Fleete bridge,
and to Oldborne bridge, as they of old time had been accustomed, which
was a great commodity to all the inhabitants in that part of the city.
In the year 1589 was granted a fifteenth, by a common council of the
city, for the cleansing of this brook or dike; the money amounting to a
thousand marks, was collected, and it was undertaken, that by drawing
divers springs about Hampstead heath into one head and course, both
the city should be served of fresh water in all places of want; and
also, that by such a follower, as men call it, the channel of this
brook should be scowered into the river of Thames; but much money
being therein spent, the effect failed, so that the brook, by means
of continual encroachments upon the banks getting over the water, and
casting of soilage into the stream, is now become worse cloyed and
choken than ever it was before.
The running water, so called by William the Conqueror in his said
charter, which entereth the city, etc. (before there was any ditch)
between Bishopsgate and the late made postern called Moorgate, entered
the wall, and was truly of the wall called Walbrooke, not of Gualo, as
some have far fetched: it ran through the city with divers windings from
the north towards the south into the river of Thames, and had over the
same divers bridges along the streets and lanes through which it passed.
I have read in a book[22] entitled the Customs of London,[23] that the
prior of the Holy Trinity within Aldgate ought to make over Walbrooke
in the ward of Brod street, against the stone wall of the city, viz.,
the same bridge that is next the Church of All Saints, at the wall.
Also that the prior of the new hospital, St. Mary Spittle without
Bishopsgate, ought to make the middle part of one other bridge next to
the said bridge towards the north: and that in the twenty-eight year of
Edward I. it was by inquisition found before the mayor of London, that
the parish of St. Stephen upon Walbrooke ought of right to scour the
course of the said brook, and therefore the sheriffs were commanded to
distrain the said parishioners so to do, in the year 1300. The keepers
of those bridges at that time were William Jordan and John de Bever.
This water-course, having divers bridges, was afterwards vaulted over
with brick, and paved level with the streets and lanes where through it
passed; and since that, also houses have been built thereon, so that the
course of Walbrooke is now hidden underground, and thereby hardly known.
Langborne water, so called of the length thereof, was a great stream
breaking out of the ground in Fenchurch street, which ran down with
a swift course, west, through that street, athwart Gra street, and
down Lumbard street, to the west end of St. Mary Wolnothes church, and
then turning the course down Shareborne lane, so termed of sharing or
dividing, it brake into divers rills or rillets to the river of Thames:
of this bourn that ward took the name, and is till this day called
Langborne ward. This bourn also is long since stopped up at the head,
and the rest of the course filled up and paved over, so that no sign
thereof remaineth more than the names aforesaid.
Oldborne, or Hilborne, was the like water, breaking out about the place
where now the bars do stand, and it ran down the whole street till
Oldborne bridge, and into the river of the Wells, or Turnemill brook.
This bourn was likewise long since stopped up at the head, and in other
places where the same hath broken out, but yet till this day the said
street is there called High Oldborne hill, and both the sides thereof,
together with all the grounds adjoining, that lie betwixt it and the
river of Thames, remain full of springs, so that water is there found at
hand, and hard to be stopped in every house.
There are (saith Fitzstephen) near London, on the north side, special
wells in the suburbs, sweet, wholesome, and clear; amongst which Holy
well, Clarkes’ well, and Clement’s well, are most famous, and frequented
by scholars and youths of the city in summer evenings, when they walk
forth to take the air.
The first, to wit, Holy well, is much decayed and marred with filthiness
purposely hid there, for the heightening of the ground for garden-plots.
The fountain called St. Clement’s well, north from the parish church of
St. Clement’s and near unto an inn of Chancerie called Clement’s Inn, is
fair curbed square with hard stone, kept clean for common use, and is
always full.
The third is called Clarkes’ well, or Clarkenwell, and is curbed about
square with hard stone, not far from the west end of Clarkenwell church,
but close without the wall that incloseth it. The said church took the
name of the well, and the well took the name of the parish clerks in
London, who of old time were accustomed there yearly to assemble, and
to play some large history of Holy Scripture.[24] And for example, of
later time, to wit, in the year 1390, the 14th of Richard II., I read,
the parish clerks of London, on the 18th of July, played interludes at
Skinners’ well, near unto Clarkes’ well, which play continued three
days together; the king, queen, and nobles being present. Also in the
year 1409, the 10th of Henry IV., they played a play at the Skinners’
well, which lasted eight days, and was of matter from the creation of
the world. There were to see the same the most part of the nobles and
gentles in England, etc.
Other smaller wells were many near unto Clarkes’ well, namely Skinners’
well, so called for that the skinners of London held there certain plays
yearly, played of Holy Scripture, etc. In place whereof the wrestlings
have of later years been kept, and is in part continued at Bartholomew
tide.
Then there was Fagges well, near unto Smithfield by the Charterhouse,
now lately damned up, Todwell, Loder’s well, and Radwell, all decayed,
and so filled up, that their places are hardly now discerned.
Somewhat north from Holywell is one other well curved square with stone,
and is called Dame Annis the clear, and not far from it, but somewhat
west, is also one other clear water called Perillous pond, because
divers youths, by swimming therein, have been drowned; and thus much be
said for fountains and wells.
Horsepoole, in West Smithfield, was some time a great water; and because
the inhabitants in that part of the city did there water their horses,
the same was in old records called Horsepoole; it is now much decayed,
the springs being stopped up, and the land water falling into the small
bottom, remaining inclosed with brick, is called Smithfield pond.[25]
By St. Giles’ churchyard was a large water called a Pool. I read in the
year 1244 that Anne of Lodburie was drowned therein; this pool is now
for the most part stopped up, but the spring is preserved, and was coped
about with stone by the executors of Richard Whittington.
The said river of the Wells, the running water of Walbrooke, the bourns
aforenamed, and other the fresh waters that were in and about this city,
being in process of time, by incroachment for buildings and heightenings
of grounds, utterly decayed, and the number of citizens mightily
increased, they were forced to seek sweet waters abroad; whereof some,
at the request of King Henry III., in the twenty-first year of his
reign,[26] were, for the profit of the city, and good of the whole
realm, thither repairing, to wit, for the poor to drink, and the rich to
dress their meat, granted to the citizens and their successors, by one
Gilbert Sanforde, with liberty to convey water from the town of Teyborne
by pipes of lead into their city.
The first cistern of lead, castellated with stone in the city of London,
was called the great Conduit in West Cheape, which was begun to be built
in the year 1285, Henry Wales being then mayor. The water-course from
Paddington to James head hath 510 rods; from James head on the hill to
the Mewsgate, 102 rods; from the Mewsgate to the Cross in Cheape, 484
rods.
The tun upon Cornhill was cisterned in the year 1401; John Shadworth
then being mayor.
Bosses of water at Belinsgate, by Powle’s wharf, and by St. Giles’
church without Cripplegate, made about the year 1423.
Water conveyed to the gaols of Newgate and Ludgate, 1432.
Water was first procured to the Standard in West Cheape about the year
1285, which Standard was again new built by the executors of John
Welles, as shall be shown in another place. King Henry VI., in the year
1442, granted to John Hatherley, mayor, license to take up two hundred
fodders of lead for the building of conduits, of a common garnery, and
of a new cross in West Cheape, for the honour of the city.
The Conduit in West Cheape, by Powle’s gate, was built about the year
1442; one thousand marks were granted by common council for the building
thereof, and repairing of the other conduits.
The Conduit in Aldermanbury, and the Standard in Fleet street, were made
and finished by the executors of Sir William Eastfield in the year 1471;
a cistern was added to the Standard in Fleete street, and a cistern was
made at Fleetbridge, and one other without Cripplegate, in the year 1478.
Conduit in Gra street, in the year 1491.
Conduit at Oldbourne cross about 1498; again new made by William Lambe
1577.
Little conduit by the Stockes market, about 1500.
Conduit at Bishopsgate, about 1513.
Conduit at London wall, about 1528.
Conduit at Aldgate without, about 1535.
Conduit in Lothbury, and in Coleman street, 1546.
Conduit of Thames water at Dowgate, 1568.
Thames water, conveyed into men’s houses by pipes of lead from a most
artificial forcier standing near unto London bridge, and made by Peter
Moris, Dutchman, in the year 1582, for service of the city, on the east
part thereof.
Conduits of Thames water, by the parish churches of St. Mary Magdalen,
and St. Nicolas Colde Abbey near unto old Fish street, in the year 1583.
One other new forcier was made near to Broken wharfe, to convey Thames
water into men’s houses of West Cheape, about Powle’s, Fleete street,
etc., by an English gentleman named Bevis Bulmer, in the year 1594. Thus
much for waters serving this city; first by rivers, brooks, bourns,
fountains, pools, etc.; and since by conduits, partly made by good and
charitable citizens, and otherwise by charges of the commonalty, as
shall be shown in description of wards wherein they be placed. And now
some benefactors to these conduits shall be remembered.
In the year 1236 certain merchant strangers of cities beyond the seas,
to wit, Amiens, Corby, and Nele, for privileges which they enjoyed in
this city, gave one hundred pounds towards the charges of conveying
water from the town of Teyborne. Robert Large, mayor, 1439, gave to the
new water conduits then in hand forty marks, and towards the vaulting
over of Walbrooke near to the parish church of St. Margaret in Lothbery,
two hundred marks.
Sir William Eastfield, mayor, 1438, conveyed water from Teyborne to
Fleete street, to Aldermanbury, and from Highbury to Cripplegate.
William Combes, sheriff, 1441, gave to the work of the conduits ten
pounds.
Richard Rawson, one of the sheriffs, 1476, gave twenty pounds.
Robert Revell, one of the sheriffs, 1490, gave ten pounds.
John Mathew, mayor, 1490, gave twenty pounds.
William Bucke, tailor, in the year 1494, towards repairing of conduits,
gave one hundred marks.
Dame Thomason, widow, late wife to John Percivall Taylor, mayor, in the
year 1498 gave toward the conduit in Oldbourne twenty marks.
Richard Shore, one of the sheriffs, 1505, gave to the conduit in
Oldbourne ten pounds.
The Lady Ascue, widow of Sir Christopher Ascue, 1543, gave towards the
conduits one hundred pounds.
David Wodrooffe, sheriff, 1554, gave towards the conduit at Bishopsgate
twenty pounds.
Edward Jackman, one of the sheriffs, 1564, gave towards the conduits one
hundred pounds.
Barnard Randulph, common sergeant of the city, 1583, gave to the water
conduits nine hundred pounds.[27]
Thus much for the conduits of fresh water to this city.
FOOTNOTES:
[19] “This water hath been since that time called Turne mill brooke; yet
then called the river of the Wells, which name of river,” etc.,--_1st
edition_, p. 11.
[20] Parliament record.
[21] Patent record.
[22] “In an old writing book.”--_1st edition_, p. 14.
[23] Liber Custom.
[24] This precise definition of the nature of the performances of the
parish clerks, “some large hystorie of Holy Scripture,” does not occur
in the first edition of the _Survey_.
[25] “Is but fowle, and is called Smithfield Pond.”--_1st edition_, p.
15.
[26] Patent, 123.
[27] In the first edition, Barnard Randulph’s gift is stated to be £700
only.
THE TOWN DITCH WITHOUT THE WALL OF THE CITY
The ditch, which partly now remaineth, and compassed the wall of the
city, was begun to be made by the Londoners in the year 1211,[28] and
was finished in the year 1213, the 15th of King John. This ditch being
then made of 200 feet broad, caused no small hindrance to the canons of
the Holy Trinity, whose church stood near unto Aldgate; for that the
said ditch passed through their ground from the Tower of London unto
Bishopsgate. This ditch, being originally made for the defence of the
city, was also long together carefully cleansed and maintained, as need
required; but now of late neglected and forced either to a very narrow,
and the same a filthy channel, or altogether stopped up for gardens
planted, and houses built thereon; even to the very wall, and in many
places upon both ditch and wall houses to be built; to what danger
of the city, I leave to wiser consideration, and can but wish that
reformation might be had.
In the year of Christ 1354, the 28th of Edward III., the ditch of this
city flowing over the bank into the Tower ditch, the king commanded
the said ditch of the city to be cleansed, and so ordered, that the
overflowing thereof should not force any filth into the Tower ditch.
Anno 1379, John Philpot, mayor of London, caused this ditch to be
cleansed, and every householder to pay five pence, which was for a day’s
work towards the charges thereof. Richard II., in the 10th of his reign,
granted a toll to be taken of wares sold by water or by land, for ten
years, towards repairing of the wall and cleansing of the ditch.
Thomas Falconer, mayor, 1414, caused the ditch to be cleansed.
Ralph Joceline, mayor, 1477, caused the whole ditch to be cast and
cleansed, and so from time to time it was cleansed, and otherwise
reformed, namely, in 1519, the 10th of Henry VIII., for cleansing and
scowering the common ditch between Aldgate and the postern next the
Tower ditch. The chief ditcher had by the day seven pence, the second
ditcher six pence, the other ditchers five pence. And every vagabond
(for so were they termed) one penny the day, meat and drink, at charges
of the city. £95 3_s._ 4_d._
In my remembrance also the same was cleansed, namely the Moore ditch,
when Sir William Hollies was mayor, in the year 1540, and not long
before, from the Tower of London to Aldgate.
It was again cleansed in the year 1549, Henry Amcotes being mayor,
at the charges of the companies. And again, 1569, the 11th of Queen
Elizabeth, for cleansing the same ditch between Aldgate and the postern,
and making a new sewer, and wharf of timber, from the head of the
postern into the town ditch, £814 15_s._ 8_d._ Before the which time the
said ditch lay open, without wall or pale, having therein great store of
very good fish, of divers sorts, as many men yet living, who have taken
and tasted them, can well witness; but now no such matter: the charge
of cleansing is spared, and great profit made by letting out the banks,
with the spoil of the whole ditch.
I am not ignorant of two fifteenths granted by a common council in the
year 1595, for the reformation of this ditch, and that a small portion
thereof, to wit, betwixt Bishopsgate and the postern called Mooregate,
was cleansed, and made somewhat broader; but filling again very fast,
by reason of overraising the ground near adjoining, therefore never the
better: and I will so leave it, for I cannot help it.
FOOTNOTE:
[28] Liber Dunstable. Liber Trinitat.
BRIDGES OF THIS CITY
The original foundation of London bridge, by report of Bartholomew
Linsted, alias Fowle, last prior of St. Mary Overies church in
Southwark, was this: A ferry being kept in place where now the bridge
is built, at length the ferryman and his wife deceasing, left the same
ferry to their only daughter, a maiden named Mary, which with the goods
left by her parents, and also with the profits arising of the said
ferry, built a house of Sisters, in place where now standeth the east
part of St. Mary Overies church, above the choir, where she was buried,
unto which house she gave the oversight and profits of the ferry; but
afterwards the said house of Sisters being converted into a college of
priests, the priests built the bridge (of timber) as all the other great
bridges of this land were, and from time to time kept the same in good
reparations, till at length, considering the great charges of repairing
the same, there was, by aid of the citizens of London, and others, a
bridge built with arches of stone, as shall be shown.
But first of the timber bridge, the antiquity thereof being great, but
uncertain; I remember to have read,[29] that in the year of Christ 994,
Sweyn, king of Denmark, besieging the city of London, both by water
and by land, the citizens manfully defended themselves, and their king
Ethelred, so as part of their enemies were slain in battle, and part of
them were drowned in the river of Thames, because in their hasty rage
they took no heed of the bridge.