to an enormous size. I have seen one measuring more than eight feet in
length, and various others that weighed full a maund (82lb.) The average
size at which they are brought to market, may be from eighteen, to
thirty, inches in length; and their weight from two to ten, or twelve,
pounds. They flake like cod, to which also their flavor greatly
assimilates.
_Soles_, of a diminutive size, are sometimes to be had at Calcutta: the
natives call them _kookoor jibbys_, (_i.e._ dogs’ tongues,) in allusion
to their shape. These are sometimes caught in the brackish waters, among
the _bicktys_, or cockups, or in the flat sands about Diamond-Harbour,
&c. _Prawns_ of a very good size, and very small crayfish, are to be
found in most parts of the country, as also a kind of eel, called
_baum_; which, however, bears more resemblance to the gar, or
guard-fish, of which millions may be taken in most of the fresh-water
_jeels_, (lakes,) though rarely exceeding a foot in length.
The _rooy_, or _r’hooee_, is a species of the carp, as is also the
_meergah_. They are both abundant in the great rivers, and in all the
waters connected with them, though the former are most numerous, and
thrive greatly in ponds. The latter are of a browner color, and rarely
exceed ten pounds in weight, whereas, the former are often found of
fifty lb., and sometimes up to a maund.
The _cutlah_ is a species of the perch, though some consider it to be of
the bream-kind: it is only found in the great rivers, is generally of a
dark color, approaching to black, and commonly weighs from ten to sixty
lbs.
The whole of the above, viz. The _r’hooee_, the _meergah_, and the
_cutlah_, may be taken by angling; as may also the _soly_, a species of
the jack, and nearly as voracious.
_Trouts_, about as large as smelts, are sometimes to be seen in those
small streams that have their rise among mountains, but they are not so
distinctly spotted as we see them in Europe: they are, indeed, very
scarce, and generally bear a small red, or gold, or black, spot on each
scale: the adipous fin, by which all the salmon tribe are distinguished,
is scarcely elevated above the loins.
The fresh-water anchovy, called by the natives _çhelwar_, is to be found
in shoals on every flat sand throughout the great rivers: these are
generally scared, so as to precipitate themselves on the beach, by two
men, who, wading in the water up to their knees, gradually draw a line
of fifty or sixty feet in length, every where laden with small, colored
rags, in such manner as to enclose the _çhelwahs_ in a crescent, and
ultimately to drive them ashore. Occasionally, _mullets_, of a small
size, are found among the booty: they are remarkably sweet and firm.
Nothing can be more common than to see shoals of them struggling against
the current, especially in the cold months, with their eyes out of the
water. Their motions are very nimble, but it is not uncommon to see
several killed by a round of small shot, from a common fowling-piece:
they are not to be taken by angling. As to the _tingrah_, a kind of
freshwater gurnet, it is extremely voracious, and grows to a good size;
often weighing eight or nine lbs.; though the average may be from two to
four. They are very strong, and afford ample amusement when hooked. The
_skait_ grows to full twelve or fourteen lbs., and is common in all the
great rivers; but, it must be handled with caution, on account of its
having a dreadful spine about the centre of its tail. These two
last-mentioned fishes are rarely seen at table; nor is the _buallee_,
which is rather flat, and has a continued abdominal fin, the same as
eels. This fish is extremely coarse, but desperately rapacious; seizing
almost any bait with avidity, but affording little sport when hooked.
The _puftah_ is of the same description, but, in lieu of weighing, as
the _buallee_ often does, from ten to fifteen lbs., seldom amounts to so
many ounces. Its flesh is remarkably rich and sweet, but, when hooked,
it is as little disposed as the former to resist. The most esteemed fish
is, that called by the natives _tupsey_, but by us ‘_mango-fish_,’ on
account of its appearing about the time that _mangoes_ first come into
season: it comes up with the tide. In appearance, it is not unlike the
smelt, though rather deeper, and with reddish fins. The flesh of this
fish is fine, but its roe is deservedly esteemed to be delicious. An
immense quantity are cured, by being slightly salted, and sun-dried;
after which, they are smoked for a short time over a fire made of chaff,
&c.
Turtle, of about a cwt., are to be found in almost every river and
creek, as also in some of the large _jeels_; though they are very rarely
seen in standing waters, and then, perhaps, only in a state of
migration. The flesh of these is peculiarly unwholesome; and, so far
from being, like the sea-turtles, composed of parts resembling fish,
flesh, and fowl, may be aptly compared with bacon of the coarsest
description, with some tendency to rancidity. The _batchwah_, or
‘freshwater herring,’ (though it has no scales,) is one of the best
fishes the Indian rivers produce; but a general prejudice is
entertained, with much justice too, against its selection of food. The
most appropriate baits for most fishes are the _goorgoory_, (or _gryllus
monstrosus_,) and the _cockroach_ (or _blatta_). It would be endless to
recount all the kinds of fishes to be found in the streams and lakes of
India; but it may justly be stated, that, in some parts, their numbers
are so great as absolutely to corrupt the waters. With respect to the
minor species of fish, occasionally served at table, they are very
numerous, and, in most places, abundant: every creek and _jeel_ is
replete with them, and every village in their vicinity contains persons
provided with some kind of apparatus suited to catching an ample supply.
On the larger pieces of water, there are usually either canoes or
_dingies_, which, together with their owners, are subservient to the
_jemmadars_, or head-boroughs, and may also be set in motion for a very
trivial present, made ostensibly to the laborer, but commonly
transferred privately to that proud, imperious, and avaricious officer.
POULTRY next come under consideration: of this, great variety is to be
found. Fowls, capons, ducks, geese, turkies, and pigeons, are for sale
in every city, or great station, at very moderate prices. In general,
taking an average of all places, fine chickens, called _chujahs_, may be
had at ten for a rupee (_i.e._ 3_d._ each); middle-sized, or
_meem-kabobbies_, (small roasters,) at seven or eight for a rupee (about
4_d._ each); and good-sized roasters, or _kabobbies_, at five for a
rupee (about 6_d._ each).
Capons are only to be had in particular parts of the country; generally
they are white, and so cheap as to give ten or twelve for a rupee;
though I have purchased no less than twenty-nine for that sum, (_i.e._
1_d._ each,) in the Tomar district, where they are produced in immense
numbers by the _Pahariahs_, or Hill people, of that mountainous
district. These people are more immediately distinguished by the
designation of _Dangahs_: they are of a small stature, very, very poor,
rather squalid, but capable of undergoing great fatigue: they are
wonderfully adroit in the exercise of the bow; and, after performing the
little labor needful for the cultivation of the vallies, generally
repair, at certain seasons, to the military and civil stations in the
neighbouring districts of Ramghur, &c., where they serve as bearers;
especially on the new-road, which is much frequented by gentlemen
travelling _dawk_, (post,) in _palanquins_, to or from the upper
stations.
Ducks are of various prices, but may be considered at an average of four
or five for a rupee (about 7½_d._ or 6_d._ each); and geese at a rupee
each. These thrive prodigiously throughout India; but it is far
otherwise with turkies, which are extremely tender, and cannot endure
the great heats of summer, unless allowed to graze upon a plot well
watered, and generally sheltered from the sun. It is not uncommon to see
them crowding to some little verdant spot under the shade of the
lee-side, where a current of air, refrigerated by the _tatties_, passes
out from the _bungalow_, &c. Without some such restorative, they would,
to a certainty, pine away, and speedily disappoint the hopes of their
owner. Among the grass on the plots generally preserved near the
dwelling, it is common to see immense numbers of ants, of all
descriptions, which resort thither both for coolness, and for the
collection of the seeds that are perpetually falling. It is very
strange, but true, that these little depredators are not easily
deterred, by the water being laid on occasionally, from forming their
nest in such plots of grass, though they generally prefer some dry, hard
walk, or level area, along which they form little paths, by laying the
gravel, &c., aside; so that their progress is not obstructed when
robbing some store. Many of these paths may be traced for fifty or sixty
yards; occasionally, they are double; one being appropriated for the
egressors, the other for those returning laden with the booty. When the
turkies light upon such a line of march, they fall to with a famous
appetite; seeming to rival our pheasants in that particular, and
exhibiting the satisfaction they feel on receiving a supply of their
favorite food. In thus devouring the ants, they do great service; for, I
know not of any more unpleasant companions than the little tormentors in
question, whose bite is extremely keen, producing considerable
irritation. Some of these ants grow to full three-quarters of an inch in
length, and are capable of causing great pain. Many prevent their being
destroyed, under the opinion that they feed upon white-ants: this I
never could establish, though I believe they are ready enough to march
off with the body of a dead white-ant, the same as they would with any
other morsel of animal substance.
The difficulty of rearing turkies, renders them extremely scarce; hence,
it is not uncommon to pay a gold mohur (£2.) for a well-grown, fat,
turkey-cock: few, either cocks or hens, are to be had in any part of the
country, for less than half that sum; and then chiefly from Portugueze
families, that make a livelihood by rearing them. About Bandel, a
Portugueze town, some thirty miles above Calcutta, great numbers are
reared; as are also ducks, and geese, in abundance. At all the great
stations, both civil and military; some persons of that description
generally reside, through whose industry families are supplied. Fowls
are reared by the same persons; though less an object to them, as almost
every Mahomedan family maintains a few, mostly for its own use, but
sometimes for sale. As to the Hindus, nothing could be more criminal
than such a speculation: the very touch of a fowl being considered the
acmé of pollution. From this we may judge how necessary it is to be
guarded in making changes in the dress of our native soldiers; whose
zeal and fidelity are unquestionable, but who instantly revolt at any
invasion, however slight, of their religious tenets, or of their vulgar
prejudices. Those who affect to consider such to be easily overruled,
or, who vainly talk of _coercing_ so many millions to adopt our faith,
would do well to take a trip to Bengal, and to insist on any Hindu
menials, or others, under their authority, wearing a feather in their
turban.
As to the numerous species of wild game, such as antelopes, hog-deer,
hogs, geese, ducks, teal, snipes, ortolans, quails, partridges,
florikens, (or bustards,) pigeons of sorts, wild and tame, hares, &c.,
they are generally to be had in abundance; those of my readers who wish
for a more detailed account, will find it in my ‘WILD SPORTS OF THE
EAST,’ published in folio, with colored plates, as also in quarto royal,
and imperial octavo, by Mr. Edward Orme, of Bond-street, and by Messrs.
Black and Co. Leadenhall-street. In that superb work, the details of
every branch of hunting, shooting, &c., will be found.
There are no wild rabbits in India, but great numbers of tame ones are
to be had at Calcutta, and at some of the subordinate stations. The
prices vary according to demand, age, and condition; but we may take the
average at four for a rupee when half grown, and at double that rate
when fit for the table. It is, however, extremely difficult to preserve
them in safety from their numerous enemies the dogs, jackals, foxes,
cats, rats, bats, snakes, hawks, crows, &c.
Having, I believe, generally discussed what relates to the supply of the
table, I shall proceed to the description of other matters relating to
the convenience and service of gentlemen resident in the East.
The dinner table is invariably laid with two cloths; one of the usual
size, the other about large enough to cover the surface only: this last
is removed when the meat is taken off; so that the dessert is laid upon
the lower one, which has, in the mean while, been preserved by it from
stains, grease, crumbs, &c. A napkin is laid with every cover, together
with a tumbler or rummer, a long glass for Claret, and an ordinary-sized
one for Madeira. Each glass is provided with a cover, which may be
lifted off by means of a stud in its centre. In opulent families, these
covers are usually made of silver, otherwise of turned wood. It is
remarkable, that some of the common indigenous woods have the peculiar
property, when used for this purpose, of imparting a most offensive
smell, attended with a similar flavor, to water, &c., if left for a few
minutes.
The knives and forks are all of European manufacture, though, within
these few years, some excellent imitations have appeared. I doubt if
_Blacky_ can, as yet, bring his work so low as our artizans, though he
certainly has the advantage of them in cheapness of living, and in being
generally exempt from the operation of a variety of taxes. This
deficiency on the part of the natives, proceeds from their being obliged
to perform all those operations by hand, which we both accelerate and
perfect by means of machinery. The greater part of the plate, used
throughout the country, is made by native smiths, who, in some
instances, may be seen to tread very close on the heels of our
jewellers, not only in the graceful form of the articles manufactured,
but in the patterns, whether carved or embossed. Such specimens of
perfection are, however, rare, and are produced chiefly under the
superintendence of European masters; though I have seen some pieces,
made by _sonaars_, (goldsmiths,) totally independent of such aid, or
instruction, which displayed much skill and some taste. Speaking,
however, of the common workmanship of this class, it must be put out of
all comparison with British plate, on account of its being indifferently
shaped, and rudely ornamented. Hence, such plate as is sent from this
country, as well as what is made up by Europeans settled in India, very
generally sells for full 25, or even for 50 per cent. more than what is
manufactured by the native artizans.
The whole of the glass-ware used in India, is furnished from England,
and commonly sells at full two, if not three, hundred per cent. on the
prime cost: this is not unreasonable, when we consider how brittle the
commodity is, and that the extent of sale is not so considerable as to
render it, individually, an object of adventure.
Table cloths and napkins are manufactured in several parts of the
country, especially at Patna, Tondah, and most of those cities where
piece-goods are made. The beauty of some fabrics of this description is
very striking; nor is their durability less conspicuous. I have by me,
at this moment, some that have been in constant use for full twelve
years, and my stock, at no time, exceeded a dozen and a half of table
cloths. The prices of such may be supposed to vary according to quality;
but a very superior bird’s eye may be generally had for about two rupees
per square yard; observing, that the cost will necessarily be somewhat
encreased in proportion to the greater extent of the piece. Others, of a
coarser texture, and of a plain diaper, are to be had extremely cheap;
perhaps as low as eight annas (15_d._) per square yard. Such are,
however, extremely flimsy, and never appear creditable. Towels are also
manufactured at various prices; some reaching so high as two rupees
(5_s._) each, while others may be obtained by the dozen for the same
money. The best for common use may be rated at about five or six rupees
per dozen. A kind, generally of mixed colored borders, wove in, is made
at Chittagong: these are rough, like what we call huckaback, and are
peculiarly well calculated for drying and cleaning the skin after
washing; but they are not so durable as the plain diapers.
Great quantities of furniture are sent from Europe, being first taken to
pieces, and packed within a very small space. Of this description,
mahogany tables and chairs form by far the greater portion; few other
articles being shipped, though now and then we see a few bureaus,
secretaires, ecritoires, &c., among a cargo from Europe. All such
commodities would bear even a higher price than is now charged for them,
were it not that, among the natives, as well as among the European
carpenters, and joiners, settled in Calcutta, the British mechanics
experience considerable, and very successful, rivalship.
The excellent woods, of different kinds, produced in almost every part
of India, and the facility with which they may be brought to market,
present the most favorable aids to the Indian artizans; but, owing to
the want of capital among the natives, the work done by them is rarely
found to answer: it warps dreadfully, and sometimes rives from one, to
the other, end. This is entirely owing to the deficiency of seasoning;
for we find, that whenever a gentleman is at the pains, and has the
opportunity, to saw up his own wood, and to season it properly, it will
commonly be found to answer his expectations fully; both in respect to
durability, and to the polish it may take. Although there is, in some
instances, an obvious cheapness in employing a native carpenter, it may
safely be asserted, that, on the long run, what with delay, impositions,
imperfections, &c., it is frequently found to be a very round-about way
of saving a trifle. I strongly recommend to all persons arriving in
India, to visit the several depôts of furniture to be seen at every
auction-warehouse, and generally at the _godowns_ (warehouses) of the
European shopkeepers. There is, besides, a whole street, called the
‘_china-bazar_,’ as well as various scattered boutiques, appropriated
entirely to the display of European articles, and of china-ware, of
every description; all which are sold for ready money only, by a tribe
of Hindu speculators, who, from attending at auctions, are enabled to
make cheap purchases, and become perfectly acquainted with the qualities
of every article; or, at least, with such points as give a preference in
the eye of an European. In this _bazar_, (or market,) almost every thing
an European can require, for common purposes, may be obtained: he may,
indeed, purchase an ample library, either of new, or of second-hand
books; and, generally speaking, may equip himself in such a manner as
may enable him to keep house at full thirty per cent. cheaper than among
the European shop-keepers.
Though we may find a few trades, such as coach-making, jewellery,
cutlery, armoury, &c., perfectly distinct, and unconnected with any
other speculation, we are not to suppose that commodities, in general,
are separately classed, and exhibited in shops solely allotted to them.
On the contrary, what we call an ‘Europe-Shop,’ affords a rich display
of that heterogeneous kind of cargo imported in every merchant-ship
proceeding to that quarter. Consequently, each shop offers an
astonishing variety of wares. Liquors of all kinds, guns, pistols, glass
ware, tin and copper ware, crockery, stationary, shoes and boots,
hosiery, woollens, linens, ironmongery, hats, cheese, grocery, and an
infinity of articles of the most opposite natures, may be found in the
spacious rooms, and _godowns_, allotted to the exhibition of the
miscellaneous profusion!
Though it is not common to see European goods, especially those which
are not immediately perishable, selling for less than thirty or forty
per cent. advance upon the _salt-water_ invoices, it sometimes happens,
that an immense importation of some few particular articles may lower
them to full fifty per cent. under prime cost. This is easily accounted
for: for instance, should hats, shoes, and boots, bear a great price at
the time a fleet is about to be despatched for Europe, all the
commanders and officers note it down, for the purpose of making those
articles bear a large proportion in their next outward-bound cargoes.
Thus, each unwittingly becomes the dupe of his own avarice; and, on the
return of those ships to India, experiences the lamentable effects of
having allowed himself to be guided by former prices. I recollect
hearing an officer on board one of the Company’s ships declare, that he
made it a rule always to lay in a good stock of those articles which
were cheap at the time he quitted India: for, that he was certain the
lowness of the prices would influence the others of his class to avoid
purchasing them for the India markets, which, by the time of his return,
he invariably found to have regained their former level. By holding back
a little while, until the Europe shop-keepers found that he was the
sole, or, at least, the principal, importer of those goods, he had never
failed to make a very profitable bargain.
However much we, in Europe, may admire genuine china-ware, our
countrymen in the East seem, for the most part, indifferent to its
beauties; they preferring our ornamented Staffordshire ware; which,
owing to its bulk, and brittleness, necessarily sells at a very high
price in every quarter of India. What is called ‘a long set,’ by which
we mean a service equal to a table for at least thirty persons, often
sells for 500 sicca rupees, equal to £65.; and ‘short sets’ in
proportion. The disadvantage attendant upon the use of this ware, in so
remote a situation, is, that, when, owing to the numerous accidents to
which all such articles are subject, even under especial vigilance, but
particularly under the auspices of native menials, the set may be much
reduced, it is utterly impracticable to fill up the vacancies thus
occasioned. With china ware, it is very different; for it is not so easy
to distinguish between two complex patterns, if tolerably similar; and,
as there is always a very large stock on hand, among the retailers in
the _china-bazar_, a very great chance, if not a certainty, exists, of
being furnished with any number of plates, dishes, &c., that may be
required to restore the set to its complement, or even to augment it, if
necessary. It may be a proper precaution, however, not to buy a set of
china ware of any very particular pattern; but to select one from those
numerous rich patterns every where common, and annually imported. This
seems to prove, that, unless under particular orders, the Chinese
deviate but little from their established fashions; as may be further
seen in their constant manufacture of that kind of crockery we generally
term ‘dragon-china,’ which appears to have been in use among them for
centuries.