_godown_ ten years in the wood: many have much older wine in their
possession; a few can, indeed, boast of some, which, though
inconceivably mild, and rich in flavor, is extremely potent. None will
attempt to produce, at their tables, Madeira that has not been two or
three years in the country; for the new wine is neither pleasant nor
wholesome, and may be readily distinguished from the old,
notwithstanding some venders are well skilled in the art of adding, in
the course of a few _hours_, many _years_ of age to the liquor. Among
the military, it is found best to purchase wine that is known to be of
good quality, and of a certain age; which is easily done, through the
several agency-houses; all of which have generally large quantities, of
every description, either on commission, or at command. This mode is far
preferable to the otherwise general practice of buying several pipes,
with a view to filling up the ullage, (say of four, from a fifth,) as
the contents decrease. By such management, any person settled at
Calcutta, or elsewhere, may, in the course of five or six years, become
possessed of a stock of excellent Madeira; observing, however, that, in
that time, every fifth pipe will have been drawn off, to fill up its
neighbours: therefore, in computing the value of such remaining pipes,
that of the pipe thus expended must be included.
Nothing can injure a cargo of Madeira more than the presence of a cask
of coal-tar: it communicates to the wine a most nauseous flavor, and
scent; rendering it totally unfit for use. I recollect, about seventeen
years ago, dining with a General Officer, who had inadvertently allowed
his Madeira pipes to be smeared with coal-tar, for the purpose of
preserving them. Whether it had that effect on the wood I never took the
trouble to enquire, but it certainly _preserved the wine_; which, I
doubt not, may be in existence to this day; for it was really too
potent, even for parasitical stomachs!
The price of good Madeira wine that has been three or four years in the
country, may be generally stated at about four hundred rupees, equal to
£50. The pipes are not so large as formerly, but will commonly run about
forty dozens; which brings the price per dozen nearly to twenty-five
shillings, or little more than two shillings per bottle. Wine of the
first quality may be about fifty, or even sixty, per cent. dearer.
The Port-wine used in India is generally of a light kind, not unlike
what we term ‘Southampton Port:’ about ten years ago, when Claret began
to be scarce, a large quantity was sent out, and was bought up with
readiness; but, on account of its astringent, and, consequently,
heating, quality, it fell into disrepute. It is, nevertheless, highly
esteemed as a restorative, especially in a convalescent state after
obstinate bowel-complaints, and in cases of debility not proceeding from
obstructions.
Such exceptions are, indeed, rare; for, I believe, very few of the local
diseases are exempted from such connections with obstruction: in fact,
almost every ague, which is a very common complaint in many parts of the
country, and is generally designated the ‘Hill,’ or ‘the Jungle-fever,’
according to the situation in which it is engendered, either originates
from, or resolves into, confirmed hepatitis.
Porter, pale-ale, and table-beer of great strength, are often drank
after meals: all these are found in the utmost perfection, for
indifferent malt-liquors do not stand the voyage; and, even should they
arrive in a sound state, would meet no sale. A temporary beverage,
suited to the very hot weather, and called ‘country-beer,’ is in rather
general use, though water, artificially cooled, is commonly drank during
the repasts: in truth, nothing can be more gratifying at such a time,
but especially after eating _curry_. Country-beer is made of about
one-fifth part porter, or beer, with a wine glass full of _toddy_, (or
_palm-wine_, which is the general substitute for yeast,) a small
quantity of brown sugar, and a little grated ginger, or the dried peel
of Seville oranges, or of limes; which are a small kind of lemon,
abounding in citric acid, and to be had very cheap.
The great cheapness and abundance of the materials, added to the
frequent and great thirst to which Europeans are subject while resident
in India, should appear to be strong inducements toward the free use of
punch, lemonade, sangaree, negus, &c. The reverse is the case; for, I
believe, with the exception of the lowest classes, all such beverages
are totally discarded: they are deleterious; rarely failing, in the
first instance, to injure, and ultimately disgracing all who yield to
the temptation. Fortunately, that temptation is not very strong; as
liquors of a superior quality are found to be more wholesome, more
pleasant, and, in the long run, not much dearer. Besides, there is a
certain odium attaches in that quarter to all who are in the habit of
drinking spirits, whether raw or diluted. In a climate so ungenial to
European constitutions, and where, as above said, thirst is often very
distressing, the frequent recourse to ‘_brandy shrob pauny_’ (brandy and
water) never fails to produce that sottishness at all times despicable,
but peculiarly unsuited to Oriental society, in which at least the
better half are men of very liberal education, and all are gentlemen.
In saying thus much, I barely do justice to the persons of whom mention
is made; for it may be said, without fear of refutation, that fewer
deviations from propriety are to be found in our Indian settlements,
than in one-tenth the number of inhabitants of the same classes in any
other country, whose manners and properties, either personal
observation, or respectable authors, have enabled me to estimate.
This results, not simply from the advantage almost every individual in
the Company’s service, and in the mercantile branches, possesses, of
having been brought up in the most respectable seminaries, &c., and of
being early initiated in the walks of decorum and integrity among their
respective friends in Europe; it proceeds partially from the nature of
the climate, and from that mode of association which the duties
attendant upon each profession, as well as certain localities, seem,
imperiously indeed, to inculcate.
I have before shewn that taverns, punch-houses, &c., are by no means
places of resort, as in Europe: there is no such thing as a coffee-room,
merely as such; unless we so consider the few mansions of certain French
and English _traiteurs_ and _restaurateurs_, who occasionally have to
accommodate committees of shipping, or town meetings, &c., and who send
out dinners to any part of the town, or its vicinity, on terms
advantageous to both parties. Therefore, under such exceptions, which
are rare, and setting apart the _civic_ operations of the beef-steak
clubs, &c., it may properly be said, that coffee-house association is
unknown in Calcutta, at least among the respectable members of the
community. Neither does any corps in the Company’s service keep a mess:
all the officers dine either at home, or in small parties, according as
their several fancies, or occasion, may lead them. It is common to hear
one or two of a party, before they retire from table, which is always
done without the least ceremony, enquire, who will dine with them the
next day? Thus, it is extremely easy to avoid any obnoxious person, be
the objection to him what it may; and as the omission of any individual,
from the ordinary course of invitations of such a description, soon
produces explanation, it is impossible that a person of unpleasant
manners, or of an indifferent character, can, for any length of time,
stand his ground; the whole circle, by degrees, drop his acquaintance,
while, in lieu of that friendly and familiar salutation which denotes
approbation, the shunned offender experiences the most distant, and most
forbidding reserve. Being once condemned, something more than ordinary
must appear to produce his re-admission: for the most part, especially
if habitual inebriation be in question, the unhappy man pursues his
career, either until the grave may receive his dropsical remains, or the
Invalid Establishment affords him an asylum against the mortifying
neglect of his late associates.
This kind of retirement, of course, can only apply to military
characters, and certainly does infinite credit to the humanity of those
who tolerate the measure. It may, probably, be urged, that such an
institution should not be open to persons retiring merely in consequence
of indulgence in depravity; or because they are no longer acceptable
among their former associates: it may be asserted, that the admission of
such men within so honorable a pale, must be injurious both to the
character of the corps, and to the feeling of those meritorious
individuals who are compelled by wounds, &c., to accept the benefits of
that establishment. This is undeniable; but when we consider, that,
perhaps, after long service in an oppressive climate, the best of us may
be brought to that kind of conduct which disqualifies from military
service, it may not be too much to assert, that the concession and
indulgence thus granted, are at least charitable, and often
incontrovertibly merited.
Among the gentlemen of the civil service, the society is far less
diversified than with us in Europe; therefore, much facility is afforded
towards the evasion of intercourse with persons in any way unacceptable.
It must at the same time be remarked, that, in this instance, the most
liberal consideration is very generally exhibited; and, that so long as
any hope of reform may remain, there will rarely be found a disposition
to exile a man from that converse with his countrymen, without which he
can neither preserve the appearance of respectability among the natives,
nor, in all probability, receive the approbation of Government. Hence,
what we commonly call a ‘black-sheep,’ is a most marked, and equally
forlorn character, throughout the East; and, consequently, is very
scarce.
Many years ago, when it was customary for the Governor-General, and some
of the leading gentlemen, such as the Members of Council, &c., to have
public breakfasts weekly, persons of all characters mixed promiscuously
at table; good and bad were to be seen around the same tea-pot. This
occasioned a native of some consequence to remark, that, ‘among
Europeans, all who wore a hat and breeches were gentlemen.’ The sarcasm
was not, however, quite applicable; for, the breakfast being considered
merely the preface to a levee, it was to be expected that, on such
occasions, persons of every description would be seen, who, having
public business to transact at the levee, naturally availed themselves
of the opportunity, without reference to the opinions of others
regarding their private conduct. After the arrival of Marquis
Cornwallis, these public breakfasts were discontinued, and open levees
substituted. This was certainly pleasanter for both the Governor and the
governed. However, there are, to this day, I believe, some remains of
the former ceremony preserved, among a few of the principal gentry; who,
on certain days, expect to see their friends, and such others as may
wish to consult them. Some have two levees, if we may so designate them,
weekly; one for Europeans, and one for natives; but such cannot be
considered official.
A breakfast in India bears a strong resemblance to the same meal in
Scotland, with the exception of whiskey; the introduction of which, (if
to be had,) or of any other spirits, would be considered both nauseous
and vulgar. The general bill of fare, at this time, consists of tea,
coffee, toast, bread, butter, eggs, rice, salt-fish, _kitchery_, (a kind
of olio,) various sweetmeats prepared in the country, especially
preserved ginger, and orange marmalade, honey, &c.; and, after hunting
or shooting, occasionally cold meat, with proper accompaniments.
During a great portion of the year, breakfast may be considered rather a
substantial meal. The generality of European gentlemen rise about
day-break, and either proceed to the parade, to their field diversions,
or to ride on horseback, or on elephants; thus enjoying the cool air of
the morning. From the middle of March to the middle of October, the sun
is very powerful, even when the atmosphere is overcast with clouds of
great density. This induces all who ride for health, or for pleasure, to
avoid violent exercise; they proceeding, generally in small parties,
each gentleman being attended by his _syce_, who carries a whisk made of
horse-hair, fastened to a short lacquered stick, for the purpose of
driving away the flies, which are generally very troublesome both to the
horses and to their riders. It is not uncommon to see the backs of the
latter covered with these noxious parasites, which, by their buzzing,
and their attempts to alight on the face, produce extreme irritation.
During some part of the year, when scarce a leaf is in motion, and the
clouds hang very low, exercise, even so early in the morning, is often
found more injurious than refreshing: at such seasons, nothing but the
abundant perspiration which then relaxes the whole frame, and absolutely
oozes through the light cloathing in common use, could prevent the
occurrence of diseases highly inflammatory. Many feel so uneasy, in
consequence of this unpleasant exudation, as to be induced to change
their linen three or four times within the day; but, however refreshing
such a change may prove, it is by no means to be commended; experience
proving that considerable prostration of strength is the inseparable
consequence of so ill-judged an indulgence. The best plan is, to have
night apparel, and to ride out in the linen worn during the preceding
evening; changing for a clean suit on returning, so as to sit down to
breakfast in comfort.
Those who are subject to bile cannot be too cautious in regard to their
diet; which should be rather sparing, and confined to viands dressed in
a simple manner. Many gentlemen of the faculty, in England, entertain an
opinion, that eggs, moderately boiled, are rather beneficial, than
otherwise, in bilious cases: the idea they entertain is, that the yolk
assimilates with the bile, and carries it off. But practice is better
than theory; and it is to be wished, that such as maintain the above
hypothesis could view the number of patients who may be said to owe
their pains and sorrows merely to the practice of eating eggs for
breakfast. In this climate, to a person possessing a robust
constitution, and whose stomach might vie with that of an ostrich, eggs
may be innocent; but, in the East, where relaxation weakens the powers
of digestion, they are by no means a proper article of diet. If, as
physicians assert, assimilation takes place, it assuredly is on the
wrong side of the question; for I believe all oriental practitioners
will allow, that the bile is considerably augmented, but not carried
off, by eggs.
However grateful many of the other items, such as salt-fish, &c., may
be, they certainly cannot tend much to the preservation of health;
therefore, should be discarded from the breakfast table. I speak
feelingly; for, although I did not possess sufficient resolution to
withstand what then appeared a very alluring temptation, I have now the
candor to confess, that thirst, heat, and uneasiness were generally
attendant upon my imprudence, and no doubt occasioned me to swallow many
a nauseous dose, which might have been avoided by a moderate share of
discretion. Therefore, let me strongly recommend to those of my juvenile
readers who may be about to proceed to India, not to indulge in
breakfasts such as I have described.
The tea used in India is generally what we call green, or hyson; very
little bohea being drank. It is very rarely that either kind can be
obtained good; indeed, the climate speedily renders tea unfit for use,
if at all exposed to the air: on this account, leaden catties of various
sizes, but generally containing from four to ten pounds, are employed
for preserving it. These catties fit in pairs, or, if large, singly,
into neat boxes provided with locks. But little tea being sold retail,
it is usual for a few friends, perhaps three or four, to club, and buy a
chest; which may be had for about 150, or even so high as 200 rupees
(£25). This, however, is not the price of the best teas, which
occasionally sell for nearly double the latter sum, unless there may be
a very large supply at market; when, as it is a very perishable
commodity, the prices sometimes fall even below prime cost. To say the
truth, it rarely matters much whether the tea be good, or bad; for it is
always made at a side-table by some menial who knows nothing of the
matter, and who never tastes it himself: hence, a cup of good tea is
really a rarity; which must appear extraordinary, when it is recollected
that many vessels import at Calcutta in five or six weeks only from
China.
The Arabs now convey immense quantities of fine coffee from Mocha to
every part of India; but they sell it at a high price, generally from
forty to sixty rupees, or even more, per maund of 82lb.; which brings
it, at the latter rate, to 3_s._ 9_d._ per lb. in its raw state. Bourbon
and the Mauritius raise coffee, but of an inferior quality; and, within
these few years, considerable plantations have been formed at
Chittagong; but the produce, though abundant, cannot compare with even
the French coffee.
I have often had coffee that tasted very salt, and rather bitter, the
cause of which was then unknown to me; but a gentleman, who was ‘up to
the trick,’ assured me it was occasioned by the _frazils_ (or baskets)
being immersed in seawater, in order to give the berries that greenish,
horny appearance, which is supposed to be the indication of a superior
quality.
Sugar-candy is always used for making tea, coffee, and, indeed, for all
such purposes: it is to be had of various degrees of purity, and either
of indigenous manufacture, or imported from China. The former kind is
sold by the maund, and may be estimated at from twenty to forty rupees;
the latter in tubs made of thin deal, and other light wood, in which the
candy is packed among dried bamboo-leaves. The price of a tub is usually
about twenty rupees, (more or less, as the markets may stand,) for which
about sixty pounds weight are obtained.
Although the sugar-cane is, by many, supposed to be indigenous in India,
yet it has only been within the last fifty years that it has been
cultivated to any great extent: since the failure which took place some
twenty years back in the West Indies, it has become a most important
article of commerce. Strange to say, the only sugar-candy used until
that time was received from China; latterly, however, many gentlemen
have speculated deeply in the manufacture, and, by serving themselves
richly, have rescued the country from a very impolitic branch of
imposition. We now see sugar-candy, of the first quality, manufactured
in various parts of Bengal, and, I believe it is at length admitted,
that the raw sugars from that quarter are pre-eminently good. I have
lately had occasion to purchase some of a very superior fineness, called
_Soonamooky_, from a place of that name in the Burdwan district, which
was as high as eleven-pence per pound.
About thirty-two years ago, the common raw sugar, known by the name of
_g’hoor_, was to be had at three rupees per maund of 96lb. in the upper
provinces: this was about three farthings per pound; for a _Sonaut_ or
_Tersooly_ rupee then was exchanged at about two shillings, or even so
low as one shilling and ten-pence. In consequence of the great demand
for the article, it rose gradually, but in comparatively a very short
time, to eight rupees the maund of 72lb.; and it has been so high as
twelve rupees, but not, I believe, for any length of time: partial
instances could be quoted, of even fourteen rupees being given.
The superior kind, which may often be had nearly white, at least of a
dove color, perfectly dry, and sharp grained, under the name of
_cheeny_, was formerly about seven, or eight, rupees per maund (of
96lb.); of late, it has risen to full fifteen; and has been up to
twenty.
The sugar-candy made in India, where it is known by the name of
_miscery_, bears a price suited to its quality: some may be had at
twenty, and some up as high as forty, rupees per maund (82lb). It is
usually made in small conical pots, whence it concretes into masses,
weighing from three to six pounds each.
For further information, I must refer my readers to Mr. Colebrooke’s
excellent Essay on the Husbandry of Bengal.
Bread is not made of flour, but of the heart of the wheat, which is very
fine, ground into what is called _soojy_; a kind of meal, so far from
being pulverized, as to bear a strong resemblance to rather coarse sand.
_Soojy_ is kneaded the same as is done with flour, but there being no
yeast in the country, (I mean such as we know by that name,) it is
leavened by means of _toddy_; which is the juice obtained by making
incisions into the _taul_, (or palm-tree,) already described. In many
parts of India, _taul_ trees are very scarce, and are carefully
preserved for the sake of the _toddy_, which is sold to the _nonbaies_,
(or bakers,) at a high price. In Bahar these trees are peculiarly
abundant: there we often see groves, of hundreds upon hundreds, let out
to the _kulwars_, or distillers, to great advantage. These venders of
misery have the art of rendering the _toddy_ peculiarly potent, by
causing it to work upon the kernels of the _datura_, that grows wild in
every part of India, and possesses in every part, whether the stem,
root, leaf, or nut, a most deleterious property. _Toddy_, that has been
strongly impregnated with _datura_, (which is the name it bears in the
East,) acts very rapidly on the brain; producing mania, and, not
unfrequently, apoplexy, when drank to excess.
The bread is usually made into small loaves, weighing about a pound
each; these are called ‘single-loaves’ and may generally sell from
fifteen, to twenty, for a rupee; which brings the bread to about three
half-pence, to two-pence, per pound. ‘Double loaves’ include double the
weight, and sell in proportion. A large portion, of both sizes, is baked
in tin moulds, of a brick form; these are generally preferred, on
account of their rarely scorching, and not requiring to be rasped, as
all the other bread, baked in the form of heavy cakes, generally does.
_Soojy_, (the basis of the bread,) is frequently boiled into
‘stir-about’ for breakfast; and eaten with milk, salt, and butter;
though some of the more zealous may be seen to moisten with porter; a
curious medley, by no means to my taste! Nor is much to be said of its
qualities; as few stomachs are suited to its reception.
The camp-oven in common use, consists merely of a very large _naud_, or
pot, capable of containing from thirty to fifty gallons, and of rather a
conical form. This vessel is prepared for the purpose, by having a hole
punched through its bottom, large enough to admit a man’s arm; it is
then placed, mouth downwards, over a corresponding cavity, dug out of
the soil, so as to fit close every way; but, in order to allow a proper
draught of air, two, or more, sloping apertures are left, passing under
the circumference of the _naud_. The vessel is next well covered with
turf, &c., and thus rendered capable of retaining considerable heat,
long enough to bake small bread. The interior being filled with chips of
wood, charcoal, _gutties_, (_i.e._ dried cow-dung,) or any other kind of
fuel that may be at hand, a strong fire is kept up in it, until the
_naud_ appears to be nearly at a red heat. The hole, which served for a
chimney, is then closed; and, the embers being withdrawn, the bread is
introduced upon pieces of iron plate, or of tin, or boards, or leaves,
&c., &c.
I should here remark, that the natives invariably eat unleavened bread,
generally made of wheaten, or of barley-meal; which, being made into a
good dough, is flattened into cakes, called _chow-patties_, between the
hands, with very great dexterity. Such cakes are then either put at the
edges of the heated _choolah_, or fire-place, or they are baked upon a
convex plate of iron, circular, and about ten inches, or a foot, in
diameter. This plate, called a _towah_, is precisely the same as the
_girdle_ made in Scotland for baking their oaten bread, and is used in
the same manner.
Milk is to be had in abundance throughout India, especially among the
Hindus, who venerate the cow, and follow all occupations relating to the
dairy; but, owing to the general custom of smoking the insides of
whatever vessels are allotted to its reception, will not be obtainable
in such a state as suits the palate of an European, unless a clean
pitcher, &c., be sent to the _gwallah_, or cow-keeper, that the cow may
be milked into it.