CHAPTER XVI.

DRY-PERFUMES.

As a matter of course, dry perfumes are of greater antiquity than

fluid; aromatic substances require merely to be dried in order to

retain their fragrance permanently. The oldest civilized people known

in history—Egyptians, Assyrians, Persians, Babylonians, and the Jews,

as numerous passages in the Bible prove—used dried portions of plants,

leaves, flowers, and resins as perfumes and incense.

To this day there is kept up quite a trade in Valeriana celtica, a

strong-scented Alpine plant, and in powdered amber, with the Orient,

where they are used for scent bags and incense respectively. The

Catholic Church retains to the present time the Jewish rite of

burning incense, and in our museums will be found urns, taken from

Egyptian graves, from which pleasant odors escape even now after

nearly four thousand years, owing to the aromatic resins with which

they are filled. It is said, too, that the delightful volatile odors

of our handkerchief perfumes were first prepared by an Italian named

Frangipanni conceiving the idea of treating a dry mixture of different

aromatic plants with alcohol and thus imparting the odor they contained

to the latter.

Not all aromatics can be made into sachet powders; it is well known

that the delightful odor of violets changes into a positively

disagreeable smell when the flowers are dried, and the same remark

applies to the blossoms of the lily of the valley, mignonette, lily,

and most of our fragrant plants. On the other hand, some portions of

plants, especially those in which the odorous principle is contained

not only in the flower but in all parts of the plant, as in the mints,

sage, and most Labiatæ, remain fragrant for a long time after drying

and hence can be employed for sachets. Besides the plants named,

lavender, rose leaves, the leaves of the lemon and orange tree, Acacia

farnesiana, patchouly herb, and some other plants continue fragrant

after drying.

Any vegetable substance to be used for sachets must be completely dried

so as to prevent mould. The drying should be effected in a warm, shady

place, sometimes in heated chambers; direct sunlight and excessive

heat injure the strength of the odor, a portion of the aromatics

becoming resinified and volatilized. If artificial heat is employed, a

temperature between 40 and 45° C. (104-113° F.) is most suitable.

The external form of this class of preparations varies of course with

the public for which it is intended. Expensive sachets are sold in silk

bags with different ornamentation; those intended for the Orient are

generally put up as small silk cushions richly ornamented with gold

and colors to suit Oriental taste. Cheap sachets are sold in envelopes

or in round boxes. It is customary to have the ingredients ground or

finely powdered, for which purpose small hand-mills will generally

suffice.

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