AMMONIACAL AND ACID PERFUMES.
A. AMMONIACAL PERFUMES.
Ammonia (ammonia water) has a disagreeable odor and exerts a very
caustic effect on the lachrymal glands. Despite these properties,
ammonia, in a highly dilute condition and mixed with other aromatics,
finds manifold application in perfumery and serves particularly for the
manufacture of the so-called smelling salts, or inexhaustible salts,
used for filling smelling bottles.
The liquid or caustic ammonia, however, is not so suitable for the
purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia, which when pure
forms colorless crystals usually covered with a white dust (consisting
of bicarbonate of ammonia); these, undergoing gradual decomposition,
give off the odor of ammonia and hence are more lasting in smelling
bottles than the pure liquid ammonia.
The main essential for both of these substances is purity. Caustic
ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now obtained on a large
scale from “gas liquor,” but the crude products always retain some of
the penetrating odor of coal tar which renders them valueless for the
purposes of the perfumer. We must, therefore, make it a rule to use
nothing but perfectly pure materials which, moreover, are easily to be
had in the market.
INEXHAUSTIBLE SALT (SEL INÉPUISABLE).
Oil of bergamot 24 grains.
Oil of lavender 45 grains.
Oil of mace 24 grains.
Oil of clove 24 grains.
Oil of rosemary 45 grains.
Water of ammonia 1 qt.
The aromatics are placed in a bottle, the ammonia is added, and the
bottle vigorously shaken; the solution is soon effected, and the turbid
liquid can be at once filled into bottles.
According to the material from which the containers are made, different
methods must be adopted. It is necessary to give the liquid such form
as to prevent its flowing out when the vessel is inverted; this is
important, as the bottles are often carried in dress pockets and the
ammonia destroys most colors. As a rule the vessels are filled with
indifferent porous substances which are moistened with the perfume.
If the container is made of box wood, ivory, porcelain, or some
other opaque material, it is filled with fibres of asbestos or with
very small pieces of sponge, and as much perfume is poured in as the
substance can take up; the vessels are then inverted into a porcelain
plate and allowed to drain, and are finally closed with a loose plug of
cotton. If the container is transparent, it is better to use, instead
of the asbestos or sponge which do not look neat, either small pieces
of white pumice stone, powdered glass, small white glass beads, or
crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the perfume.
WHITE SMELLING SALT (SEL BLANC PARFUMÉ).
While the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a salt, it is
really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia; but white smelling salt is
what its name indicates and can be perfumed as desired by the consumer;
but as only certain scents harmonize with ammonia, not every odor can
be employed; the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of
rose, and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon.
Mix in a large porcelain jar—
Carbonate of ammonia 2 lb.
Caustic ammonia 1 lb.
Cover the jar and leave it at rest. After some days the mixture will
have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate of ammonia which is
rubbed to a coarse powder, perfumed, and filled into bottles. The above
quantities require:
Oil of bergamot 15 grains.
Oil of lavender 15 grains.
Oil of nutmeg 8 grains.
Oil of clove 8 grains.
Oil of rose 8 grains.
Oil of cinnamon 75 grains.
The oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with about one-tenth of
the salt; of this perfumed salt enough is added to the several portions
of the mass, and triturated until the odor is equally distributed. For
cheaper smelling salts oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted
for the oils of rose and cinnamon.
PRESTON SALT (SEL VOLATIL).
In this perfume ammonia is continually generated; the salt is prepared
by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-ammoniac in fine powder with
freshly slaked lime. Fine or cheap perfume is added, according to the
grade desired. The mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually
develops small amounts of ammonia—it takes a long time until the
decomposition is complete, and for this reason a bottle filled with
Preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for several years.
EAU DE LUCE.
This is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid form. It is made
according to the following formula:
Tincture of ambergris 10½ oz.
Tincture of benzoin ½ lb.
Oil of lavender 150 grains.
Water of ammonia 1½ lb.
The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation and immediately
filled into bottles; the liquid should have a milky appearance. At
times 150 grains of white soap is added which aids in imparting to the
liquid the desired milky appearance. In fine eau de Luce the odor of
ambergris should predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing
the amount of tincture of ambergris.
B. ACID PERFUMES.
As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their
characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called
ammoniacal, so there is an important series of articles containing
acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars,
and in some washes.
Ordinary vinegar, _i.e._, water containing four to six per cent of
acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant refreshing odor
and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now made in large quantities
and of excellent quality, is known commercially as glacial acetic acid.
In commerce, it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing
85 or more per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In
chemical or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid is
meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% acid is
sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor
and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a
temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter property is of importance
as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like
alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes
which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar
refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid.
Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine
perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes
the acetic acid must be properly diluted, since the concentrated acid
has pronounced caustic properties, reddens the skin, and may even
produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips.
AROMATIC VINEGAR (VINAIGRE AROMATIQUE).
Glacial acetic acid 2 lb.
Camphor 4¼ oz.
Oil of lavender ¾ oz.
Oil of mace 150 grains.
Oil of rosemary 150 grains.
Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be employed for the
production of superior toilet vinegars; thus we find vinaigre ambré,
au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., according to the perfume used.
As concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the
same as alcohol, all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in
acetic acid; but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount
as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very pleasant
vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume,
as in the following:
SPICED VINEGAR (VINAIGRE AUX ÉPICES).
1. Macerate:
Leaves of geranium, lavender, peppermint,
rosemary, and sage, of each 1 oz.
In alcohol of 80% 1 lb.
2. Macerate:
Angelica root, calamus root, camphor,
mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each ½ oz.
In glacial acetic acid 2 lb.
for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle which
should not be completely filled. The longer this mixture is allowed to
season in the bottle, the finer will be the aroma; for in the course of
time the alcohol and acetic acid react on each other and form acetic
ether, which likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor.
Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are filled into
smelling bottles containing the same porous substances for their
absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, crystals of potassium
sulphate, etc.
FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS.
VINAIGRE A LA ROSE.
Essence of rose (triple) 10½ oz.
White-wine vinegar 1 qt.
This should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye-stuffs
to be enumerated hereafter. The use of true wine vinegar is to be
recommended for this and all the following toilet vinegars, as the
œnanthic ether it contains has a favorable effect on the fineness of
the odor.
VINAIGRE AUX FLEURS D’ORANGES.
Extract of orange flower 7 oz.
White-wine vinegar 1 qt.
This is usually left colorless.
VINAIGRE AUX VIOLETTES.
Extract of cassie 8 oz.
Extract of orange flower 3½ oz.
Tincture of orris root 5½ oz.
Essence of rose (triple) 5½ oz.
White-wine vinegar 1 qt.
VINAIGRE DE QUATRE VOLEURS.
Leaves of lavender, peppermint, rue, rosemary,
and cinnamon, of each 3¼ oz.
Calamus, mace, nutmeg, of each 150 grains.
Camphor ¾ oz.
Macerated in alcohol 7 oz.
And acetic acid 4¾ lb.
PREVENTIVE VINEGAR (VINAIGRE HYGIÉNIQUE).
Benzoin 2¼ oz.
Lavender ¾ oz.
Cloves 150 grains.
Marjoram ¾ oz.
Cinnamon 150 grains.
Alcohol 1 qt.
White-wine vinegar 2 qts.
Macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar.
VINAIGRE DE COLOGNE.
Cologne water 1 qt.
Glacial acetic acid 1¾ oz.
As this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume with acetic
acid, so all other alcoholic perfumes may be employed for a like
purpose; but the quantities must be determined by experiment, for the
various aromatics differ in the intensity of their odor.
VINAIGRE ÉTHERÉ.
Glacial acetic acid 14 oz.
Acetic ether 1½ oz.
Nitrous ether ¾ oz.
Water 5 qts.
The water should be added after the ethers have been dissolved in the
glacial acetic acid.
VINAIGRE DE LAVANDE.
Lavender water 4 qts.
Rose water 1 pint.
Glacial acetic acid ½ lb.
To be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine.
ORANGE-FLOWER VINEGAR.
Orange-flower water 4 qts.
Glacial acetic acid 7 oz.
MALLARD’S TOILET VINEGAR.
Tincture of benzoin 1½ oz.
Tincture of tolu 1½ oz.
Oil of bergamot 150 grains.
Oil of lemon 150 grains.
Oil of neroli 30 grains.
Oil of orange peel ½ oz.
Oil of lavender 15 grains.
Oil of rosemary 15 grains.
Tincture of musk 15 grains.
Concentrated acetic acid 21 oz.
Alcohol 4¾ lb.
TOILET VINEGAR (FRENCH FORMULA).
Oil of bergamot 30 grains.
Oil of lemon 30 grains.
Oil of rose 8 drops.
Oil of neroli 5 drops.
Benzoin 75 grains.
Vanillin 15 grains.
Concentrated acetic acid ½ oz.
Alcohol ½ lb.
Macerate for two weeks, and filter.
VINAIGRE POLYANTHE.
Glacial acetic acid 7 oz.
Tincture of benzoin 1¾ oz.
Tincture of tolu 1¾ oz.
Oil of neroli 150 grains.
Oil of geranium 150 grains.
Water 2 qts.
To be stained with tincture of krameria (rhatany).