about and that is all. Her eldest daughter, Ethel, who is just sixteen, is
getting on so well at school. She is by far the best reader, reading quite
fluently, and writes very well. She is very staid, and we think she might
possibly act as school-mistress in the future. Her brother Alfred, two
years older, has perseveringly stuck to his reading. He can hardly master
even short words. Still, he is getting on, especially in writing and
arithmetic. He is a very clean, neat and orderly lad, and has greatly
brightened in appearance since he began coming to school. The elder girls
will not do as well as the younger, who will soon outpace them. The former
have lately been learning to write letters. Up till now two or three women
and Repetto have written for the whole colony.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF ALL THE MEN]
_Saturday, April 20_.--We have been thinking with much satisfaction that
our letters taken by the _Grey-hound_ will probably be received in England
to-day. Since she left a ship has not so much as been seen.
This has been an afternoon of knocks at the door. First, Repetto's, who
came to replace the tin round the pipe on the roof, but it beginning to
rain he helped instead to put together a churn. We have started making
butter. Our next visitor was little Willie Repetto, who came for thyme and
parsley. Next came Rebekah to borrow the boot-brushes and blacking for her
brother, a weekly request; then Ned Green for matches for his grandmother.
He was followed by Sophy who wanted medicine for her mother, and she by
Arthur Rogers for leeks for his mother's soup. Lastly, came Rebekah again
with Mabel for nails for nailing birds' skins on their house wall to dry
them. This morning there was a request for baking-powder, and Harry Swain
brought a pair of horns for a birthday offering. Many days are like this,
and our house often resembles a shop.
It was Mary Repetto's birthday this week. I made her a pretty light-blue
pinafore. She was very pleased with it, and her mother so much so, that
Mary was sent with a live fowl as a return offering, but we did not accept
it, as we want them to learn we do not wish to be repaid for presents.
_Sunday, April 21_.--We have been having good attendances in church
lately. The men are again attending well, and two new-comers have started.
On Sunday evenings, there being no service, we read aloud. Graham begins,
and just now is reading _Religions of the World_. Then I read; my present
book is called _Holiness of Life_. I have just been preparing a lesson for
the women. I find Ryle's _Expositions of the Gospels_ a great help, they
are so simple and practical.
CHAPTER XX
_Wednesday, April 24_.--We have at last made the expedition to the Ponds.
On Monday evening Henry Green sent down word that he was starting early
next morning. So on Tuesday we rose at five, and two hours later Graham
and I set off ahead. We were glad to get a start so as to ensure a rest
before the others came up. We went over the common and down to and along
Big Beach. After walking over a sandy stretch there, we climbed up the
side of the mountain on to a narrow path and there awaited them. Will
Swain came hurrying up looking very hot, he thought we had got down too
low. Soon there joined us Henry Green, who was the guide, Rebekah, Ethel,
and Lily and Ruth Swain. We then followed the narrow and ascending path
across Plantation Gulch, where on the left was a yawning precipice.
[Illustration: THE PATH OF PLANTATION GULCH]
Several halts were called, during which we picked and ate berries. It was
a long and stiff climb. Towards the top the grass got longer and we had
often to clamber under the branches of trees, of which there were scarcely
any lower down. When we reached the top the path led up a stony gulch,
from which there was a beautiful view up a valley. Then we had to climb
and pass along the steep side of a hill. After this we were on flatter
ground. It was very misty and the scenery reminded me much of the moors of
Scotland. We saw many young mollyhawks sitting near their nests and
showing white in the undergrowth. We now walked over more level ground,
along what Henry called a road but I should hardly call a trail. Then
again over very uneven ground and through high ferns. By eleven we were at
First Lagoon Gulch, which resembled the dry bed of a wide and deep river.
There we had a light lunch. In about twenty minutes we started again. Our
course lay up a steep hill and over much the same sort of ground as
before. At noon we were above the ponds. It now came on to rain hard. We
tried to shelter under the edge of the cliff overhanging them, but by the
time the rain ceased the girls were wet through. There was a thick mist
and we could not even see the ponds, of which there are three, and which
lay far below. After some deliberation we decided not to descend to them,
and turned our steps homeward. We returned at a good rate, the girls
flying in front of us. Will Swain took his own way back. With a thick mist
hanging all round it would have been impossible to find the way without a
guide. At intervals we stopped to wring the wet out of our skirts. I was
thankful when we got to the gulch where we had to descend; though the wind
was there blowing gales. We got down the first part of the mountain very
quickly, but only by frequently sitting down on the long wet grass to slip
down steep pitches. When we got to Plantation Gulch we found a fire and
tea awaiting us--the work of Will Swain and the girls. Now we knew why
they had hurried on. It was excellent and most refreshing. We were home by
three. The next day Rebekah came to wash our muddy clothes. She had made
dreadful rents in her skirt, and as she has no idea of mending beyond
patching I have darned them for her.
We found Henry Green a most kind and considerate guide. He constantly made
short detours in search of the easiest path and often broke off branches
to clear the way. I hear he told the men afterwards that he had not
thought the "Missus" would have been able to walk so well. I asked him as
we went up the hill which was the worst day he had ever been out in on the
sea. He said, "The day the _Surrey_ was here, and we were landing the
luggage. The wind tore the sail of our boat and so we had not the same
control of her."
_Saturday, April 27_.--Last night was so cold it kept us all wakeful. Soon
after four we were disturbed by a rat, and I thought it a good opportunity
to get up and make up the dough. Ellen lit the paraffin stove and warmed
the milk and I made the bread and then retired to bed again.
_Wednesday, May 8_.--While I write Graham and Henry Green are engrossed in
a game of Tiddley Winks. Henry's wife came yesterday to stay with us, as
we thought a change might do her good. Her rheumatism is better, but she
is still feeling ill and depressed. She slept in Ellen's room and Ellen on
the sofa. This evening she made up her mind to go home, but says she will
come again tomorrow. Henry brought a bundle of wood and is sending milk
twice a day because she is here.
_Friday, May 10_.--We do not go out much for walks; they are rather
pointless without an object. But when it is dusk we often go to the top of
the cliffs for a breath of fresh air.
_Sunday, May 12_.--Sophy Rogers said to me as we were going up to the
class, "We shall miss it when you are gone." I felt encouraged.
_Tuesday, May 14_.--Mrs. H. Green did not come back to sleep, but spends
the day here now. She told them at home if she stayed the night here she
felt as if she should go out of her mind. She has her meals with us and
Graham cracks jokes to make her laugh.
Just as we had finished dinner to-day there was a hasty knock at the door
and Bob Green rushed in. We thought he was going to cry "Sail, ho," but it
was to say there was a sea-elephant on the Flat Rocks. These are about
four miles away to the east of the Hardies. We at once started off, Mrs.
Green coming with us as far as her sister's. A number of women and
children were on the way; the men had already gone armed with their guns.
At the potato patches we had to descend the cliff and go for some way
along the shore. The men awaited us at a point where the sea was breaking
on to the cliff and helped us over. We had to watch our opportunity and
make a run for it. We were now in sight of the sea-elephant, which looked
like a black log lying on the beach. It was a young one and measured about
twelve feet in length. When discovered it was asleep. The coast is very
picturesque just there, high rocks standing out in the sea. We all trooped
home together and got back in the early evening.
_Wednesday, May 15_.--The men were all out today cutting up the
sea-elephant, which when boiled down makes excellent oil for burning.
A ship was seen off the settlement, but it was too late to let the men
know in time for them to get back and go out to it. It came well in and we
regretted it was not taking our letters.
_Thursday, May 16_.--A four-masted ship was descried towards dusk.
_Friday, May 17_.--This morning Repetto came to the school window and
asked me to go and see his wife who had been taken ill in the night with a
bad heart attack, and for about two hours had been unable to speak. I
found her in much the same condition. After taking a little brandy she
felt better, and improved as the day wore on.
_Thursday, May 23_.--The cattle are looking so different this year; the
men say they have not seen so much grass at this time of the year for
years. When Mr. Keytel was here he showed the men how to shoot an ox,
dispatching one with his first shot. I am glad to say that since that they
have tried to do the same. The men are longing for a ship as they have run
out of tobacco. Scarcely any one possesses matches now, so we have
constant requests for them.
We have begun asking two at a time of the older people to have tea with us
on Wednesdays. The younger married people we shall ask to supper, as they
do not mind coming out at night. This afternoon we had old Caroline Swain
who is seventy-nine and her sister Mary Glass who is ten years younger.
Caroline has been more or less of an invalid for many years. We glean much
of the past history of the island from the old people. They have been
telling us of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh in the _Galatea_ in 1867,
in honour of whom the Settlement is called Edinburgh. They remember well
his having dinner in this room, and how while he was having it, all
unknown to him they vied with one another in trying on his hat.
In view of having an entertainment, we are teaching the girls some of the
"Golden Boat songs" as well as recitations which the boys also are
learning. It is rather an effort, but we think it will give pleasure.
Some of the infants are learning "Three little kittens" and say it
charmingly.
[Illustration: CATTLE, NEAR POTATO PATCHES]
_Wednesday, May 29_.--To-day has been a fête day. It is Will Swain's
birthday. He is one of the two young men lately returned from the Cape
which, I suppose, accounts for the festivities being on such a grand
scale. Two sheep were killed, and the Swains gave a dinner to every one on
the island. The elders had dinner at the Hagans' who have the largest
room, and the children at Susan Swain's. They sent us a cooked chicken for
our dinner.
_Saturday, June 8_.--So far we have had a much better winter than last
year, there has been more sunshine and less wind.
Graham is gradually getting the meteorological apparatus up. He and
Repetto have put in the garden what resembles a meat-safe. It is the
screen for the thermometers. I objected to its being placed in the middle
of the garden, and so it has been removed lower down where it cannot be
seen from the house, rather, I fear, to Repetto's regret who regards it as
a very desirable ornament.
_Friday, June 14_.--Today William has been getting kelp to put on our
garden. As the gate into the garden is not large enough for the cart to
pass through a portion of the wall had to be pulled down.
_Thursday, June 20_.--Last Sunday evening Mr. And Mrs. Repetto came in.
After a talk we had reading aloud and sang some hymns. One wishes one
could be of more real help to the people. Yesterday we had old Eliza Hagan
and Lucy Green to tea. Ellen sang to them some of Moody and Sankey's hymns
to the accompaniment of her autoharp. Graham told them we thought of
camping out a night or two on the mountain; at which they were much
concerned and tried hard to dissuade us. At last Eliza said a comfortable
air of conviction, "Mumma won't go with Puppa." He conveyed them home one
on either arm, both being rather decrepit.
_Saturday, June 22_.--We are having a spell of cold weather, and snow is
to be seen on the top of the mountain. It is more like our winter at home.
Fortunately there is not much wind.
_Thursday, June 27_.--Today the men have all been working on a patch of
ground near here, just across the Big Watering, which Henry has let us
have for wheat. It has to be sown this month. They seem pleased to do it.
They have been fairly busy lately cutting a large quantity of wood for the
winter, which is piled near their houses. Old Sam Swain and Tom Rogers go
out every month fishing in order to find out for Mr. Keytel when the fish
are at their best.
Last night we had Tom and his mother to supper. She appeared soon after 5
o'clock and they stayed till about 9. We had fish cakes and a semolina
mould with jam. Tom much enjoyed playing Tiddley Winks, and I think would
have gone on happily till midnight. We ended the evening with a hymn and
prayers.
_Saturday, June 29_.--We have spent the afternoon in the garden moving
some of the Eucalyptus plants. Several are over a foot high and have very
long tap-roots. We cannot plant them in any other garden, as the people
say they would infect the soil with the white mould which is all over this
garden. This mould has already rotted the roots of one or two. Ned and
Charlie helped me to weed and to put small stones round the bed for a
border. Little Charlie pulled up some Love-in-a-mist thinking it was a
weed. When he found out what he had done, he turned away and buried his
face in his arm and wept. We tried to console him, but it was some time
before he could get over it. "He's skeered," said Ned.
_Wednesday, July 3_.--We have a little handmaid, Mary Repetto. She is
delighted to come and is most capable. She comes for an hour twice a day,
and receives a shilling a week. Early this morning Ben had a return of his
fits, which seem rather worse this time; he has had five today. His sister
Mrs. H. Green is much better. On Monday I took her to the wheatfield to
help me to sow. We sowed the seed broadcast while Graham and her husband
raked it in.
_Friday, July 5_.--We had our entertainment yesterday at five. I think
every one was present with the exception of old Caroline Swain. I found
out just at the last that the children were not changing their clothes, so
I bustled them off home to do so. The whole affair lasted about one hour
and a half and was the first of the kind the people had had on the island.
Graham began with a reading, "Harry" from the Gordon League Ballads, and
caused much laughter when he curtsied as Jim's wife did before the Queen.
Some of the recitations were rather feeble, but perhaps we only were
conscious of it. William in one piece was much pleased with shouldering
Graham's gun, and when the auspicious moment came for him to pretend to
shoot (a small boy at his side letting off a cap pistol), he looked quite
white in the face. In "We are little sailors," the girls very effectually
used pocket-handkerchiefs for sails. In another song they had to march,
clap, and jump. The big girls enjoyed it quite as much as the younger.
Charlotte Swain, who is rather fat, could not jump for laughing, and
said, "I shall laugh a lot more yet." We finished with the National
Anthem, which was quite new to them.
_Thursday, July 18_.--It is a long time since I have written in my diary,
but I have twenty letters waiting to be dispatched. We have been even
longer this year than last without being able to communicate with a ship.
It is just four months since the schooner left. Every one is longing for a
ship. The people are short of soap, but we have been able to give them a
little.
We have been having decidedly cold weather which has told upon the young
lambs, several having died at night.
A day or two ago I said to Robert Lavarello, a boy of ten who is supposed
to be somewhat of a cook, "Could you make a loaf of bread?" "Yes," he
answered, "I think I could." "Well," I said, "try, and bring the loaf for
me to see." The next morning he appeared before breakfast triumphantly
bearing a plate with a loaf on it covered with a white cloth to which was
pinned the Italian tricolour. His cheeks glowed with pleasure as he
displayed the loaf kneaded and baked by himself. It was far more
successful than one I had baked that morning which had burst when taken
out of the tin and which I was careful to keep in the background! As a
reward he was presented with a tin of jam and a large leek which we heard
was much enjoyed by his father, who ate it raw.
The Repettos came to supper last night. She looked so elegant in a muslin
blouse, and with a very pretty print handkerchief, decorated with Swiss
chalets and edelweiss, on her head. For supper we had fish soup thickened
with vegetables, stewed apricots and tea. Our guests always eat so
sparingly.
CHAPTER XXI
_Thursday, July 25_.--Sitting at breakfast we heard the joyful sound
"Sail, ho!" We jumped up to look and then settled down to writing. The men
were out at their potato patches, and when they got back decided not to
try for the ship as she was too far east to be caught. Our hope of a ship
is always raised after a north-west wind which appears to blow ships this
way. But on many days this month had one come it would have been
impossible for the boats to have gone out, as it was either too rough at
sea or there was too much surf.
_Friday, July 26_.--Mrs. Repetto, who came in to ask me to show her how to
knit my kind of heel, told me the men could have caught the ship yesterday
if they had liked, but they "dallied about." If Repetto had been here I
think perhaps a boat would have gone as I know he is anxious to get his
letters off. In answer to a request from him Mr. B---- of Drogheda,
Ireland, has sent a beautiful pig-skin satchel to be used as post-bag when
going off to ships. It is a real boon, as the letters so often got wet.
A great number of illustrated papers was brought by the _Greyhound_, which
we enjoy looking through when too lazy for harder work. There were also
some _Fortnightly_ and _National Reviews_, and the _Nineteenth Century_,
which Graham enjoys and sometimes reads aloud to me. He gets through more
general reading than at home. Wet days are spent by him in opening cases
and arranging the contents in the loft in most precise order. Woe betide
us if we disarrange anything.
The entertainment we had was so much enjoyed the people would like to have
it again, so perhaps at the next full moon we may repeat it.
_Friday, August 2_.--We had the entertainment last night. At a rehearsal
in the morning we made several improvements in the pieces. The "Hen and
her Chickens" was charming. The tiniest children sat on the floor grouped
round the clucking hen as her chicks, and when she got up to go they
followed, giving delightful little jumps until they disappeared with her
into the next room. Then another piece, "Thomas and his Donkey," was
improved--at least so the audience thought--by the donkey suddenly
kicking up his heels and throwing his rider, who lay sprawling on the
floor. I think the people, especially the men, find the winter evenings
long. Most of them go to bed betimes. Whenever we look out of our passage
window long before we are thinking of going to bed ourselves, no lights
are to be seen in the houses, unless it is Repetto's, who reads in bed
when he can get oil.
Poor little Jock is having such bad fits. We sometimes think we shall have
to put an end to him.
The thermometer registered 44-1/2 degrees last night. There was a cry of
"Sail, ho!" raised this morning, but the supposed ship turned out to be a
cloud. We have learnt to take these cries calmly for they often end in
nothing.
_Saturday, August 10_.--On Wednesday we gave the school a holiday. It came
about in this way. Will Swain arranged with Bill Green that they two
should give Graham a treat. He was to try his hand at driving a team of
oxen. The treat was quite a success. They fetched two loads of wood which
had been cut and left on the hillside about four miles off. The load has
to be built up very carefully. For the foundation a strong spreading
branch is chosen with the trunk end turning up like the runners of a
sleigh. This branch is called the "rider," and on it are piled the other
branches to the height of about four feet. The load is bound together by
cords, and the oxen attached to it by a strong chain. Graham managed to
drive his load without upsetting it and with only the loss of one piece.
The load was a present to us, and was, we believe, a delicate return for
money lent the two men to buy spades with when the _Greyhound_ was here.
Graham had said they could work it out by digging the wheat-field, but as
"all hands" did that, probably the two thought they would like to give the
wood.
Today William brought in a bird which he called a "Starchy," but which is
just like our old friend the garden thrush. He says there are lots of them
on the hill. They have no song.
A great many of the Eucalyptus trees have died. We think we ought to have
transplanted them earlier, but were told that July was the right month and
so waited until then.
_Wednesday, August 14_.--We are awaiting our usual Wednesday guests. On
these occasions I always wear a white skirt and blouse. Of our friends,
Mrs. Repetto is the only one who has attempted any elegance, most have
come in jackets. Yesterday, I am sorry to say, she had another heart
attack. The children came down for some brandy. We went up to see her and
she seemed only half-conscious. I thought a hot bottle might do her good,
so went home to get one. This morning when I went in she was up and lying
in a deck-chair in front of the fire. It is difficult to know what these
attacks of pain at the heart arise from. I believe they begin with
shivering.
On Monday, as I was going up to school, I saw Eliza Hagan waiting about.
Soon I heard "Mumma," and then followed an invitation to four-o'clock tea
that day, and as I was going, "Puppa must come too" was called out.
Accordingly we appeared punctually at the hour named. A table was spread
with a white cloth. Susan Hagan, Rebekah, and Willie Swain were present,
but only four partook of the tea, our hostess, Mrs. Lucy Green, who lives
in the house, and ourselves. We sat on a bench drawn up to the table which
was graced by a most excellent cake, and we learnt that a quantity of
butter and six eggs had been used in the making of it. The large room was
lit by a very dim light. Ellen was invited next day.
_Friday, August 16_.--We have been up to the top of Bugsby Hole again. We
had taken Ellen, and on our return found William had been thoughtful
enough to feed the fowls, boil some water at his home and make us tea. He
had also fetched a load of wood as a present. Of his own accord at morning
prayers he always places our Bibles on the table ready for us.
We have now been five months without a ship.
_Thursday, August 22_.--Early this morning we were greeted by the news
that a steamer was passing in the far distance and could just be
discerned. The sea was far too rough for the men to think of going out.
But it is something even to see a ship. Perhaps another will follow.
We are having quite a cold spell of weather with a bitter wind. After
school I went down to the seashore to take some photographs, as there was
a fine sea with rather grand effects.
Graham went for a walk on the shore this afternoon, taking little Jock,
who unfortunately picked up a stinging fish; Graham got it from him, but
was too late to prevent its stinging him. He gave little squeals, and
finally fell down as if dead. Graham picked him up and made for home. On
the top of the cliff he stopped to rest, where, upon being put down Jock
opened his eyes, when Graham rubbed him, and before long he came round and
seemed quite himself again.
_Saturday, August 24_.--This has been an exciting day. I was baking bread
when there came a quick tap at the passage window. Mrs. Bob Green had run
down to tell us there was a steamer to the west. I at once got out the
letters, added hasty post-scripts and dated them. Graham soon came
hurrying in and also began to write. He made up his mind to go as the sea
was very smooth. Two boats put off. From the higher ground we could see
the steamer, which was coming along very slowly. The boats had a good long
wait for it. When it came up our men were allowed on board and stayed for
about an hour. It was making its first voyage and was bound for Bombay,
but was calling at Durban. We, therefore, hope our letters will reach
England the first week in October. Graham said the Peak, seen from the
water, was covered with snow. The thermometer lately has now and again
been as low as 44 degrees.
We find we are sixty-five minutes behind time. The people had told us our
clocks were slow. The Hagans have on their doorstep a sun-mark cut by a
shipwrecked captain, from which they can tell the time. Only a few
families own clocks.
_Monday, August 26_.--Poor little Jock is no more. He did not turn up for
his breakfast, but I thought perhaps he was having a game with John
Glass's puppy. When we came back from morning service I went in search of
him but could not find him. Just before lunch Susan Repetto ran in to tell
us as she was driving the geese across the Big Watering she had found him
lying dead in the water. We went to look, and there a little way up the
stream, was poor little Jock. He had no doubt had a fit and rolled down
the bank.
We are revolving in our minds the question of having to stay with us from
Tuesday till Saturday one of the younger girls of each family by turn. The
child could quite well sleep on the sofa. Ellen is anxious we should have
them and would bathe them and do their hair. We think this plan might
teach them ways of cleanliness and in other respects influence them for
good. When at school I often have to dispatch a scholar to the stream. It
is surprising what a presentable appearance the people have, but we want
them to have something more.
We were so amused on Sunday by three boys, just before morning service,
bringing this message from William, "Would Mr. Barrow lend him his boots
to go to church in?" Ellen's reply was short: "This is not a boot shop,"
and tickled the little boys immensely. Many and various have been the
requests, but I think that one surpasses them all. One day a small child
was sent to borrow our broom. An old one was lent which has not been seen
again. Several of our goods are already bespoken in view of our departure
eighteen months hence.
The dogs have been worrying and killing sheep, and yesterday drove three
into the sea, where they were drowned. As a result several of the dogs
have been shot. Complaints were made to Repetto about his dogs, and half
in temper he picked up his white fox-terrier and hammered it to death, as
he thought, and threw it into the tussock. In a few days it crawled back
to the house and had to be shot. Animal life is little thought of here. It
is no wonder the dogs prey as they do, for many are half famished.
_Thursday, August 29_.--Rose Swain came to stay with us yesterday. She was
a little tearful at first, but as she is only seven this was but natural.
In appearance she might be an English child, having a fair skin and light
wavy hair. She is not very strong, but is quick in learning.
_Saturday, August 31_.--This week the men have been building one or two
huts at the potato patches as they have there no shelter from the rain.
They are actually putting in fire-places. The people often get wet, and as
a consequence suffer a good deal from lumbago, which they call "the
stitch."
Ellen has begun a class for little boys and girls on Sunday afternoon. She
is also taking in hand Caroline Swain, the oldest inhabitant, whom she
calls for each Sunday to take to church, and again on Tuesdays to take her
to the women's meeting; for which attention her old friend is very
grateful.
At the end of afternoon service there is a practice for the next Sunday.
Two or three weeks ago we tried part-singing much to the pleasure of the
men, who now all come up to the front. What they need is a man's voice to
lead them. Ellen and I do what we can, but it is rather a case of the
blind leading the blind.
_Thursday, September 5_.--On Tuesday we saw a number of people running
eastward, and meeting some one he told us Graham had seen a sea-elephant
on Big Beach and had gone to shoot it. It appears he had started for a
short walk on the cliffs, and seeing something dark lying on the beach,
went down there, and saw what looked like a sea-elephant. He ran home for
his gun and sent word to the men. Returning to the beach he shot it. When
the elder men saw it, one or two said it was a sea-leopard, and such it
proved to be. It was the _stenorhyncus leptonyx_, the most powerful seal
of the Antarctic, and a rare visitor to Tristan, only two others having
been seen by the islanders. It had short, light-grey hair, in parts
turning to green, and measured in length ten and a half feet.
We have been having very cold weather, and yesterday morning the
thermometer registered 40 degrees. Several slight snowstorms passed over
the settlement and left their traces on the hills. It is many years since
snow has fallen so low down.
We have little Edith Swain staying with us. Her mother was rather doubtful
about her coming, but hearing, I think, that Rose was happy, she decided
to let her come, and sent her looking very tidy. The child seems quite
contented and happy and is no trouble. Each little guest goes back with a
new undergarment.
_Saturday, September 7_.--I think people at home would be amused with the
contents of our sitting-room, which at present has to be kitchen and
larder. On a side-table are a ham in pickle, a goose, butter and eggs; on
the fire an array of pots, and around it clothes airing for the Sabbath.
The fact is the kitchen stove-pipe has collapsed. Repetto is trying to
make a new piping out of oil drums. We turn out most excellent bread now,
so that our many failures of the past have somewhat sunk into oblivion.
Early this morning I was called by Mrs. Lavarello to her boy Robert who
had injured his leg in cutting flax. The cut was a bad one and ought to
have been stitched; I did not attempt that, but washed and bandaged it and
left injunctions that he should give it complete rest.
CHAPTER XXII
_Tuesday, September 10_.--We had the pleasure of seeing a ship today. The
weather was anything but good for going out, and after they reached the
shore two or three of the men decided not to go. It was really hardly fit
and got more squally as the day went on. The ship, it was evident, wanted
to call. When the boats got fairly near a squall came on and they nearly
missed her. Indeed, they turned to come home, but the captain saw them and
brought his ship round. She was the _Loch Katrine_, which called here last
year and took our second batch of letters. The men returned home in one
boat, having left the other at the Penguin Rookery some way east. They had
a hard pull up from there and they and their goods were wet through. When
we were at supper Henry Green came in with presents from the captain: a
tin of Danish butter, two packets of compressed hops, and an especial
packet for myself containing some Brown Windsor soap and a sprig of
heather--a charming thought. I had another parcel from the steward, who
sent soap and a bottle of scent. Our kettle has begun to leak, so we asked
Repetto to try for one from the ship; and the captain kindly gave him a
good old copper one, which, though it has a hole, we think will do us good
service, for our men are very clever at mending their pots and kettles.
Rob did a dreadful deed yesterday. Graham and I had taken him with us for
a walk up the hill, sitting down several times to have a talk. As we got
up to return we suddenly missed him, and whistled. Just then Johnny Green
and Arthur Rogers came in sight and called out "Rob has killed a sheep."
We could not believe it for he had been gone only a minute or two, but he
answered the whistle and then we saw the blood on his mouth and knew it
was only too true. If only the boys had called out sooner we should have
been in time to save the poor sheep's life. It is rather a blow to us, for
if he does this sort of thing he will have to be shot, and that would be
dreadful for he is such a faithful old fellow. Unfortunately, it is not
the first time he has attacked a sheep; last week, when he was out with
William, he ran after one; William, hearing a barking, ran to look and
found his dog and Rob attacking. He gave Rob a whipping and sent him home
and, although it was a long way, home he came. Since then we have been
keeping an eye upon him. Mrs. Martha Green, the owner, was very nice about
it and refused any compensation, but Graham left a sovereign on the table.
It so happened the sheep was a lame one, or "a little sick," as the
expression is here.
To-day we left school early and soon after noon were on our way to the
potato patches where Graham wanted to help Repetto. We found quite a party
there, the whole Repetto family with Alfred Green and William. They had
just brewed tea. Mrs. Repetto was sitting under the lee of the wall, where
a stone with a sack on it was placed for me. She was knitting, so I
brought out mine. I am always impressed by her rugged and strong
character. Certainly her children do not "best" her, as she is fond of
saying. Arthur refused to do his work, that of putting manure in the
trench. She just got up and gave him a good "hammering," mostly on his
head and arms. He soon set to work. She is fond and proud of her children,
but they know what is in store for them if they do not obey. The
chastisement, no doubt, is deserved, but I wish she would learn to give it
calmly and moderately. This is her week for serving us and almost daily
she sends something extra. She will not accept anything in return.
This evening Graham, as he sat in the chimney corner engrossed in reading,
was unconsciously using the ham as a cushion, with the result that an
impression of it in salt and grease has been left on the back of his coat.
_Saturday, September 14_.--A steamer in sight. On the shore we found four
of the young men preparing to embark. Repetto said the steamer had got too
far for them to catch it, and so it proved.
_Monday, September 16_.--I have been much struck by the fact that when I
have finished dressing Robert's leg a basin of warm water, soap and towel
are always brought for my use. Today we set off for a walk along Big
Beach, and overtook Mrs. Repetto and her five children. Her husband was
out hunting birds and she was going to meet him with something hot to
drink. We sat down and had a talk while the children scampered about.
After remarking they needed clothes of iron, she went on to say that the
present generation of girls do not know what hard work is compared with
what those of her generation used to do after the boat was lost. We left
her to return home. As we ran down a steep sandy bank, I leading, I heard
her parting salutation, "Well done, old girl."
_Thursday, September 19_.--I asked the women to come early this afternoon
to have their voices tried with a view to their taking parts in the hymns.
A good many came and seemed to enjoy the novelty. Several will sing alto,
which they very quickly picked up. I asked them because I thought they
might feel a little out in the cold if the men learnt part-singing and
they did not.
[Illustration: A PENGUIN ROOKERY]
About five o'clock the children ran in to say that Graham and the men, who
had gone early in the morning to the Penguin Rookery, were returning. They
always light a fire on the mountain side to show they are coming back. I
started off immediately for Big Beach, Mrs, Repetto and Mrs. Swain coming
behind with tea for their husbands. In front were the children leading a
donkey to carry the eggs. Before long the men appeared, each with a big
box of eggs on his back. The box is enclosed in a sack to which are
attached arm-straps. Each box contains about one hundred and fifty eggs
and is no light load. The two men gathered the three hundred eggs in about
twenty minutes. Repetto thinks that at present about one thousand have
been taken from the Rookery this season. When the birds are up for laying
the pairs keep together, the hen on the nest and the male standing by.
They make a tremendous noise day and night. For our amusement Graham tried
to imitate it; standing erect, putting his head up and violently shaking
it from side to side, with mouth wide open he tried to utter their
"_loha_." Mrs. Repetto was just then drinking a cup of tea and was very
nearly choked.
_Tuesday, September 24_.--Little Lizzie Rogers is staying with us. She has
an intelligent face of rather a gipsy type, with dark brown eyes, and
straight hair. We are quite enjoying her company. She is most contented
and happy, and has settled down far better than the others did. We have
produced a doll for her, and it is delightful to see her mothering it and
wrapping it up in her pinafore. She went to sleep with it clasped in her
arms.
Martha Green came down this evening to return the sovereign, but of course
we would not take it.
_Thursday, September 26_.--This morning the men pulled out about fifteen
miles to a ship, but the captain would not stop for them to go on board.
He offered to take the letters, but they were nettled at his not stopping
and would not give them to him. It was an Italian ship. As a rule foreign
vessels carry very little surplus stock. The men do best on English and
American ships. This is the second time our letters have been taken off in
vain.
_Saturday, September 28_.--Our little visitor has just returned home. She
wept when her mother told her she must leave us, so we had her back to
dinner and now she has finally departed.
_Monday, September 30_.--At midday a ship was sighted, causing the hasty
closing of school and a hurried finishing of letters. It has been a most
anxious day. When the men started for the ship there was a comparatively
quiet sea, but towards two o'clock there was a squall, a breeze sprang up,
and all the afternoon a gale has been blowing, with occasional hailstorms.
The sea is covered with white caps and the wind sweeping over it. Every
now and then we can see a ring of spray being blown along which is called
a "whilly" by the people and is thought to denote danger. The men must be
having a very bad time of it. We are anxiously awaiting their return; it
is now five o'clock and there is no sign of them.
_Wednesday, October 2_.--The men never reached the ship. Every one felt
very anxious as Monday afternoon wore on. All the men were out but two.
Soon after six o'clock when it was beginning to get dark we went on to the
cliff. The wind was blowing so hard we could scarcely stand. We met Fred
Swain, who said that the two boats were coming round the point from the
east. By straining our eyes we could just dimly discern one boat. Hagan
now joined us and we stood for some time watching it. It was making for
Big Beach, so he and Graham ran off to Little Beach to get pieces of wood
for its landing. By the time we got down to the beach it was in and the
crew were pulling it up. They were shivering with cold and soon went off
home. About the other boat they could tell us nothing except that they
believed it was a long way behind. After waiting some time for it Graham
and Bob Green went off in search along the shore. At Thomas island they
got an answer to their whistle, and came back to tell us the boat was
coming. The women meanwhile sat under the lee of a big rock, where
presently they lighted a fire and warmed the tea they had brought down. We
all felt thankful when, an hour later, the last boat landed. As soon as
they had drunk the hot tea we trooped up the cliffs home. The wind blew
the lantern out and we had to grope along as best we could by the faint
light of a brand. The men did not say much as to how they had got on. But
Henry said it was the worst day he had been out in, much worse than the
_Surrey_ day, and he is one of those who will go when others will not.
Another said he thought every minute they were going to be swamped. We
heard later from Repetto that if one wave had broken a few feet nearer it
would have done for them. Those in the last boat broke an oar and could
make no headway. They tried in vain to put in at another point, and feared
they would never get in, but happily the sea went down a little. It was
the sweeping sea and the wind coming in gusts that made it so dangerous.
It was very cold, too, so that when not rowing the islanders were rendered
almost incapable. The next day the sea was quite calm.
Yesterday Maria Green, who is thirteen, came to stay with us. She is the
younger daughter of Mrs. H. Green, and is rather a nice-looking girl, with
dark wavy hair and a fairish skin. She is always spick-and-span, never so
much as a hair out of its place. Naturally she is very shy, and I think,
though she wanted to visit us, the coming was a great effort to her. But
now that the plunge has been made I hope she finds it less alarming than
she expected. She helps Ellen a good deal, and this keeps her occupied and
makes her less shy.
Nearly every man has been out on the mountain today in search of molly
eggs. Only one egg is found in a nest, and yet Glass on Saturday got one
hundred and sixty-two. In time, I fear, these beautiful birds will be
driven from the island.
_Saturday, October 5_.--I spent the morning gardening and in the afternon
went to meet Graham, who with John Glass and his wife, Johnny Lavarello,
Maria Green and Mary Repetto had been to the ponds. They had thoroughly
enjoyed the day, the children especially, as they had not been there
before. All, except Graham, were laden with molly eggs stowed away in
their shirt or blouse which is sewn into a pouch for the occasion, a mode
of carrying which gave them a very comical appearance. The birds are quite
tame, only giving a peck when pushed off the nest.
_Tuesday, October 8_.--We are having a week's holiday. Yesterday morning I
said to little Ned Green, "Boys in England wash their neck, arms and chest
every day. You come one morning and Mr. Barrow will show you how to do the
same." He turned away his head and said, "I'm skeered." This morning
before we were up he was waiting in the porch, and then came in and sat on
the sofa until Graham was ready for him. As it was rather a wet morning
the instructions were given indoors. I heard most lively conversation
going on during the process. He was rewarded with a biscuit which he took
home to his little sister.
Idioms are little used here. I said yesterday to Ned, who was minding some
goslings, "You have got your hands full," when I saw him look down and
open his hand. The goslings are as much trouble to raise here as turkeys
are at home. They have, at first, to be watched all day long for fear of
their getting wet, and then there is always the danger of their being
carried away by the stream. If it rains they are often driven into the
sitting-room. Geese and eggs are the women's chief contributions to trade.
Mrs. H. Green has not been so well again. I went up today to try to get
her to come to dinner. She did not want to, but I said I was not going
without her. This amused her and at last she got up and went to put her
things on, though she said she was so weak she could hardly walk. When I
was sitting alone with her she told me that a few months ago something had
been said to her which she could not get off her mind. She has a strong
superstition about it. The people here believe that a person has the power
to will evil to others. A man who has been to the Cape told us one evening
that he was quite sure that the Malays had the power to make a person lame
by putting something on the doorstep, and that no one could effect a cure
except a Malay doctor.
CHAPTER XXIII
_Wednesday, October 9_.--We were aroused from our slumbers this morning by
Charlie Green hammering at the door, and on inquiry heard there was a ship
in sight. It was a most beautiful day and the sea like a mill-pond. The
men said before they started they were sure the ship was a whaler; and
they were right. The people, expecting visitors, set to work to scrub
their floors. In the course of the morning the first mate, a coloured man,
landed with a mail from St. Helena. There were only three letters in it.
One was from the Bishop. There seems now no prospect of his coming while
we are here. Our men only did fairly well on the whaler, which, however,
was well supplied with potatoes, having taken in a supply at St. Helena
only seventeen days ago. The captain and his wife kindly sent us a bunch
of bananas and a large tin of grape-nuts.
_Thursday, October 10_.--This afternoon we took the Repetto girls, Maria
and Sophy, who are staying with us, for a picnic. We made for a grassy
slope near Bugsby Hole, the children gathering sticks for the fire as we
went. They came upon a poor little lamb that had just been killed by a
sea-hen. Near it was another which a sea-hen was just pouncing upon. They
had been deserted by the mother, a thing which often happens here. The
children picked up the lamb, which could hardly have been a day old, and
we wrapped it in my jacket and gave it some warm milk. It was decided that
Mary should be the happy possessor of it. As we were at tea three rats
were unearthed. One, a big fellow, sprang down close to us. There were
shrieks from the children and the tea was upset, but Rob soon caught him.
_Friday, October 11_.--The lamb died this morning. Repetto says it was
famished before we found it.
_Monday, October 14_.--Quite a bitter day. Hail has been falling. Susan
Repetto, who lives with her Aunt Betty Cotton, is with us this week. She
has a wonderful crop of curly hair which, except on Sundays when her
mother wets and curls it, is done up in a tight little knob. She is quick
and full of fun, laughing more than any child on the island.
_Wednesday, October 23_.--The Lavarellos are serving us this week, and
insist upon bringing each morning a small bucket of milk and a jugful at
night. We have been able to make some excellent butter, so yellow that the
cows might have been feeding on buttercups, of which, however, we have
seen only one small patch. Milk puddings are our daily _régime_. There has
been no shortness this year.
_Friday, October 25_.--A mollyhawk was brought in today, it weighed four
pounds and measured from tip of beak to tip of tail thirty inches, from
tip of wing to tip of wing seventy-eight, and in girth twenty. The bird
cannot rise up from level ground, but must get to the edge of a cliff or
hill, unless helped by the wind.
Cricket is being much played by the boys. Ben intensely enjoys a game, and
it is wonderful how he manages to hold a bat and hit. He has to lie on the
ground to pick up a ball.
_Sunday, October 27_.--We went to see Betty Cotton, who is laid up with a
bad rheumatic attack. Reposing in a canvas chair she was holding quite a
_levée_, and I think enjoyed being the centre of so much attention.
We find the north wind rather trying; it is enervating and brings with it
much dampness; while it prevails food does not keep well.
_Monday, October 28_.--This has been a thoroughly wet day. The children
think nothing of wet and will sit the whole day in damp clothes. Umbrellas
are almost useless and so I have taken to the people's way of wearing a
shawl over the head.
We went across to see Miss Cotton. Her room, which serves as sitting-room
and bedroom, looked most comfortless. To add to the discomfort there
were sixteen goslings hemmed in by boxes in a corner near the door. If
they were allowed out on a day like this it would kill the greater part of
them.
_Thursday, October 31_.--Another wet day, but people in and out
notwithstanding. It cleared up in the evening and we went for a turn on
the cliffs. The houses looked so picturesque silhouetted against a stormy
sky.
_Saturday, November 2_.--One of Henry's bullocks was operated on this
afternoon with the help of five or six men. It was very wild and they had
difficulty in getting it in. They threw it by means of a rope and then
tied its legs. It had something growing inside its lower lip like a wart
which prevented its eating, and this they have removed. They have
successfully performed the same operation on other bullocks.
_Monday, November 4_.--This afternoon there was a cricket match between
the boys and girls, the former playing left-handed. Needless to say, the
girls were beaten. The men looked on with interest and later had a game
themselves, and very lively cricket it was. They may go off any day now to
Inaccessible, and are only waiting for the right wind. They generally
visit it once or twice a year. Graham means to go with them as he is
anxious to see the island.
CHAPTER XXIV
_Tuesday, November 5_.--About five o'clock this morning a gun was fired to
signify that the men were going off to Inaccessible. Soon after Tom Rogers
looked in to say they were starting in about an hour's time. We packed
into a large tin flour, captain's biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar for
Graham; Tom was taking meat, and Ellen ran down at the last moment with
bread hot from the oven. They went off in three boats, cheering lustily. I
believe they hope to do some sealing. It depends entirely on the wind as
to when they return; they might be kept a fortnight.
_Thursday, November 7_.--I am taking school in Graham's absence, the elder
girls helping with the infants. If the scholars are tiresome or heedless I
just make them hold out their hand, and with a slap from mine they are
soon reduced to order. When they are reading they are not allowed to lift
up their eyes from their books, and now it is rarely they lose their
place.
_Saturday, November 9_.--The men have not yet returned. They have had very
wet weather since they left, and must have had a trying time. I hope they
have enough to eat. On the occasion of a former visit there they were
delayed so long that they ran short of food and were nearly starved. When
at last they got back one young fellow fainted. Since then they have been
careful to take more food with them and have put one or two sheep on the
island and have sown potatoes.
_Sunday, November_ 10.--Mrs. Green has come to stay with us again; she has
been lying outside in the canvas chair for seven hours and feels the
better for it. The children are very attached to their mother, and one and
another visit her during the day. Her mother's eye at once detects a
button off or whatever is amiss.
The services were well attended to-day, only five persons being absent
morning and afternoon.
It is a quiet evening, but occasionally the sea sounds like a passing
train; at other times we hear it thundering on the shore. We do not get
such high waves, but what I call long sweeping seas. I have been taking
the meteorological observations; I hope correctly.
_Monday, November_ ll.--When school was half over old Mrs. Rogers rushed
in to say the boats were returning from Inaccessible. When I got down to
the beach they were ready to land. There was so much surf that they had to
wait for a favourable moment and then had to pull hard to get in before
the next wave broke. The landing of the three took quite a time, and they
had a good tossing while awaiting their turn. The men are very cheerful
and seem to have enjoyed themselves in spite of the wet. After the first
day they were not able to leave Salt Beach on which they landed. That
afternoon they went round by boat to where the _Blendon Hall_ was wrecked,
as they knew how anxious Graham was to see the spot. He, unfortunately,
was feeling horribly sea-sick and unable to do much, but he went with
them. They picked up some copper and a piece of wood from the wreck. The
cliffs of the island are most precipitous, and from Salt Beach they can
only be scaled by holding on to the tussock grass, but the weather was too
wet for them to attempt this. I am glad they could not try, for Henry
Green told me it was rather an "ugly business" at best of times. There was
no sand and they lay at night under the overturned boat on a pebbly beach
softened by layers of tussock grass. Graham said after five nights of it
he felt quite sore. They seem to have spent more than half their time
under the boats. One day it rained all day, and the only variety they had
was to stand under the cliffs where the rain dripped down upon them.
Another day they had some cricket, using for a ball a bit of kelp. Under
the boats they played draughts; an upturned box serving for table and
board, kelp for the black pieces, and sliced potatoes for the white.
They were able to get a few petrel's eggs, but digging these out of the
nest-holes was wet and muddy work.
Each man took so much flour, potatoes and meat which he handed over to the
cook. Andrew Swain and Bob Green undertook the work, the former being head
cook, and Graham says the cooking was excellent; not that he was able to
eat much himself for he was still feeling the effects of the sea. The
cooks were kept going most of the day. At one meal there was a great laugh
against them. As each man sipped his tea he found it nauseously salt. The
water had been taken from the wrong bucket, the one that contained salt
water for washing up.
On Sunday they had two services, all sitting round on the stones. They
sang every hymn and chant they could think of.
Sam Swain left his dog on Inaccessible. It had taken to killing geese, and
as he did not like to shoot it he decided to leave it there where it will
be able to get plenty of food. Poor dog, it swam after the boats when they
left. The party tried to return on Friday, but after being out two hours
had to go back as they could make no headway owing to a north wind.
_Thursday, November_ l4.--Yesterday, after early school, Graham and
Repetto went off to the Hardies in search of some wood-pigeons' eggs. This
is a sea-bird in spite of its land-sounding name. They had to swim to a
high rock standing a little distance from the shore with a deep channel
between, and to climb to the top of it. Swimming back Graham found the
current so strong he thought it wiser to return. They tried another way
and got across without difficulty. It was rather too early for eggs and
they only found one; but they satisfied themselves as to the
identification of the egg.
_Saturday, November_ 16.--As we have broken the last chimney-glass of our
best lamp, we have been going to bed early this week, and getting up at
five--a change which has the advantage of enabling us to get through more
work before school, and giving much more time on baking mornings. We hope
to get a glass from a passing ship, but only three have been boarded since
March, one of them being a whaler.
[Illustration: SHEEP BEING DRIVEN HOME]
It is such a pretty sight to see the sheep being driven down the hill and
separating to the different sheep-houses. But the poor things are often
very harassed by the dogs, many of which are quite untrained and run them
far too fast, and will, if they can get the opportunity, catch hold of
them. The sheep often turn obstinate and try to slip off up the hill. Some
get into the wrong houses and have to be dragged out and home by the
owners. These houses are generally deep in mud and filth.
_Thursday, November_ 21.--The rats have been eating the sunflower and
sweet pea seeds. I could detect the mark of their feet, and the shells of
the seeds are lying on the top of the bed.
I have started sketching, thinking it will interest those at home to see
what this place is like.
The children have come in to play a round game. Two were in last night, so
I said we could not have them again to-night. Tears came into the eyes of
Martha Repetto, whereupon I relented, and four of them are now in full
swing. There is just room for us all at the table.
The men have gone to Seal Bay, walking over the mountain. When they were
there the other day they found the so-called wild cattle in such poor
condition that they mean to try to drive them across a ravine to a place
where there is better pasture.
_Wednesday, November_ 27.--Repetto has just been in. He enjoys having a
talk, but he generally comes with something he has either made or mended
for us. This time he has brought a capital pastry-board made out of one of
the cases.
There are some very young pupils at school just now. They spend part of
their time sleeping, and are nursed by us or by one of the elder girls.
One of them is rather spoilt at home, and the discipline of having to sit
still and not talk has already done him good. The children are getting on
so well. Susan Repetto, who is eight, could not write a letter of the
alphabet eighteen months ago, but can now do fairly difficult dictation.
Yesterday she had no mistake in it. What about the arithmetic? Ah! there
is not much improvement there. One small boy has for months been learning
to add two and two together and invariably gets it wrong, though sometimes
he gets other figures right. Some of the elder girls make very good
figures, and the greater part are writing a good hand. They write letters
daily on their slates together with the address of the person to whom the
letter is written.
_Saturday, November_ 30.--Yesterday Repetto and Henry Green started making
a larder for us. It is being built of large blocks of soft stone and is to
be on a line with the porch. There have been many consultations over it.
The difficulty is to get the wood for the roof. We shall be so thankful to
have a place to keep our food in. Up to the present we have had to keep
the milk, which is set in a large pan to cream, on a small table in the
corner of the sitting-room with the butter and eggs.
_Tuesday, December_ 3.--A whaler in sight! We have been trying to send off
our letters ever since September. The people say it is many a year since
they have had such a bad time for ships, and Repetto says it is the worst
year since he has been on the island.
Walter Swain, who was here last year, has landed from the whaler. The
captain has ordered 500 lbs. of beef and a quantity of potatoes, but these
latter are scarce; he offers in exchange flour, soap, molasses, and
calico.
_Wednesday, December_ 4.--We were asked to tea today to the Sam Swain's to
meet the visitor and were to choose our own hour, so we settled upon four,
there being a service at five. Walter Swain has sailed all over the world;
his home is at New Bedford. He is, I believe, a first-rate harpooner and
makes a good deal by his skill. He says he has already made 800 dollars
during the year, and, of course, will make still more before he gets home.
We are sending our letters by this whaler as Walter says he will very
likely be able to transfer them to a passing steamer, failing that, he
will post them at St. Helena two or three months hence. I have about
sixteen to send off.
We are already talking of the possible arrival of Mr. Keytel.
A holiday in honour of the presence of the whaler has given an opportunity
for weeding the garden. In the midst of a clump of Love-in-a-mist a hen
has been daily laying her eggs and now wants to sit there, but that cannot
be allowed.
This has been a splendid day for going out to the ship. The captain, a
coloured man, was very kind and most fair, in fact, he seems to have given
good measure running over. Six barrels of flour and over one hundred
pounds of soap have come ashore. The men came back in a most jubilant
mood, we could hear in the house their singing as they neared the shore.
Mrs. Lavarello brought us some ship biscuits, of which she got a bushel
and a half in exchange for a goose.
_Tuesday, December_ 10.--Our little visitor this week is Florence Swain.
She had set her heart upon coming and has been asking her mother for weeks
when her turn would be.
_Wednesday, December_ 11.--Today for the wives of Henry Green and Repetto,
who have been working hard at the larder, we made up packets of grocery
containing tea, sugar, sultanas, pepper, cheese, candles, and soap.
_Friday, December_ 13.--Towards the end of school there was a cry of
"Sail, ho!" The ship is thought to be another whaler.
Last night I planted out nearly fifty sunflowers in one bed, so there
ought to be a blaze of colour. Our wheat is coming on well. Miss Cotton
has a supper to-night for the men who have been working for her. It was
announced by Bob Green getting on to the roof of the house and shouting
out.
The men returned this evening from the whaler, from which they have got
more flour and material. Repetto got some material for us; but it is poor
stuff and rather expensive.
CHAPTER XXV
_Monday, December_ l6.--Every one is busy preparing for Christmas. There's
much blueing and starching of clothes. We were up early as we have started
house-cleaning.
_Tuesday, December_ l7.--The kitchen was whitewashed before breakfast, and
the passage this afternoon.
This time of year it is necessary to water the garden every night, the
ground dries so quickly. The children come and do it for us and weed and
sweep.
The larder is not altogether a success. Though it has a fair amount of
ventilation it is rather stuffy.
Here is a list of some books which were given to William on the whaler the
other day: Plutarch's _Lives of Alcibiades and Coriolanus_; _Trips to the
Moon_, by Lucian; _Voyagers' Tales_, by Richard Hakluyt; _Areopagitica_,
by Milton; _Lives of English Poets_, _Banquet of Plato_, and the _Light of
Asia_, by Sir E. Arnold. One would hardly expect to find such books on a
whaler.
_Friday, December_ 20.--We are sitting in our "parlour," which is
bespattered with whitewash and its furniture covered with sheets and
paper, and must resign ourselves to a day or two of this mode of living,
as parts of the room will most likely have to be whitewashed again. We
hope the wind will veer round to the west, so that the room may dry. At
present a north wind is blowing, which makes the walls oozy with damp and
the atmosphere very steamy. We get a good deal of this unpleasant wind at
this time of the year, together with heavy mists at sea.
_Christmas Eve_.--I went up to the church and found Sam Swain and his
girls decorating it, as last year, with willow branches and pink roses. A
wreath had been made for the centre of the ceiling.
_Christmas Day_.--This morning there were twenty-four present at the Holy
Communion. There were also services at 10:30 and 3 o'clock.
The Repettos and little Joe spent the evening with us.
_Thursday, December_ 26.--We have had a restful day. Little Clara Swain
had begged to come and stay with us, so today she came. At supper she
began to shed a few tears, and wanted to go home to her mother. Later I
took her home. When she got there she was rather ashamed and hid her face
in the sofa all the time half laughing.
_New Year's Eve_.--A mild type of influenza is going the round, caught no
doubt on a whaler. In the fo'c'sle of one a man was seen wrapped up in a
blanket who was perhaps suffering from it.
I can imagine as I sit here the bells at home ringing out the old year. I
earnestly hope this coming year we may be able to do more in helping the
people "upward."
_New Year's Day_, 1908.--We were astir early and had service at 8:30.
New Year's Day is made as much of as Christmas Day in that the people wear
their best clothes, keep holiday and have a special dinner. We have had a
nice quiet day, digging, reading and sketching. Sketching, as may readily
be imagined, is often done under difficulties.
_Saturday, January_ 11.--The expected schooner is ever a subject of
conversation with the elders. We are beginning to feel doubtful as to its
coming. The people are very hopeful, always having the feeling that if one
thing does not turn up another will.
_Sunday, January_ 12.--I was taking a stroll this afternoon and in
crossing a rivulet stepped on a stone which toppled over, and I fell in.
My white serge skirt, which had just been washed, was caked with
mud.
_Wednesday, January_ 15.--We have had high winds the last day or two and
last night had quite a gale, the wind coming in strong gusts all night
long. The garden has suffered considerably. The children lament over the
destruction and go round propping up plants of their own accord.
_Sunday, January_ 19.--We have lost our last Cape canary through moulting;
he was a beautiful singer. Yesterday afternoon we went some way up the
mountain just above the settlement. We walked for some distance up the
Goat Ridge, crossed a ravine to our left, and then got on to what is
called the Pinnacle, where we had a view which was awe-inspiring. There
lay before us two or three yawning chasms stretching away down the
mountain side. I hardly liked to look at them. One was Hottentot Gulch,
whose sides, here bare, there dotted with trees or ferns, went down sheer
a thousand or more feet. When on higher ground and looking at the expanse
of ocean one realizes more than ever how we are cut off from the rest of
the world.
_Tuesday, January_ 21.--It is Lizzie Rogers' sixth birthday. She was very
anxious to bring a present, and went round to try to get half-a-dozen
eggs. Not being able to procure these, she brought us some cooked meat for
supper. After having a game I sent her home, but she appeared again when
her mother brought the milk. I did not know till afterwards that she
wanted to stay the night and that her mother had literally to drag her
away, poor little thing. She has long black eyelashes, from under which
she looks out at one with a shy trusting look which is quite charming.
[Illustration: OUR BATHING PLACE (LITTLE BEACH)]
We had Betty Cotton and three of her contemporaries in to tea to-day and
had quite a _recherché_ meal for them, chocolate mould and some dainty
little scones. Most of the people are out of tea, so a cup of it is a
treat to them. They stayed three hours, talking chiefly of old times and
shipwrecks. One of their favourite stories is of a captain who lashed his
wife and child to the rigging and then swam ashore through the breakers.
But instead of remaining on the beach near the foundering ship so as to be
at hand to help and rescue them he went off to the settlement five miles
away and comfortably slept through the night, leaving the islanders to do
the watching and rescuing. Our visitors always come in their best attire,
and they like being invited into the inner parlour. Mrs. Martha Green went
home and returned with a dozen and a half eggs.
_Thursday, January_ 23.--The poor penguins that land on this shore to
moult have but a short life, for the dogs hunt them out at once. The other
day we rescued one from Rob, who was dragging it from a small cave. It ran
back and Graham piled up large stones at the mouth so that no dog could
get at it. Each morning on our way to bathe we had a look at it and could
see its white breast close to the aperture. But alas! one morning we found
the bird gone. A boy had broken down the wall and his dog had killed the
penguin. While penguins are moulting they require no other food than that
with which Nature has provided them in a store of oil from which they can
draw.
_Sunday, January_ 26.--The Repettos have been here this evening. They had
some difficulty in getting in, for Rob saw them and took his stand on the
doorstep, his hair bristling; they went round to the front and he ran
round the other way to meet them. They are so kind to him he ought to have
behaved better, but he does not approve of any one coming in the evening.
We read aloud Mr. Peck's Diary, _Two Years in Baffin Land_ in the
_Intelligencer_, and they were much interested. They like coming and we
are only too pleased to see them.
_Tuesday, January_ 28.--I think every one is now giving up all hope of
seeing the schooner.
To-day John Glass and his wife gave a dinner to the whole island in honour
of their one-year-old son. Ellen and I went. Everything was excellently
arranged. We began with stuffed meat which was really very well cooked,
then followed open berry-tarts with twisted bars across, open apple-tarts,
and berry-pudding served with cream.
Yesterday Bob Green took Graham for a long-promised outing to the Caves, a
spot in the mountain just above Big Beach and about a third of the way
up to the Base. At one point, considered very dangerous because if a step
is missed there must be a deadly fall, he insisted on roping him. We
watched them with much interest both going and returning, as they
wound their way in and out.
CHAPTER XXVI
_Thursday, January_ 30.--A small vessel has just been sighted. It looks so
small that every one is wondering what it possibly can be. It is being
well scanned through the telescope and is seen to be flying an English
flag; in answer Repetto has run up ours. We have a faint hope that it may
be bringing the mail. Later we sat for a long time on the cliff watching.
One of our boats went out but could not board her, for fear of being
swamped. The vessel tacked, and when it got near our boat again dropped a
bottle into the sea for our men. In it was a letter from the Captain
saying that he wanted some fresh meat and other things and that he would
come in again early to-morrow. The men think it must be a sealer.
_Friday, January_ 31.--No vessel appeared and we think it may have gone
for good.
_Saturday, February_ 1.--Early this morning the small vessel was again
seen in the far distance and some hours later a boat from it landed the
Captain's brother and two of the crew. The two latter were brought to us
at the school. As they spoke only French the islanders did not know what
else to do with them. I tried to carry on a conversation with them and
learnt they were going to Kerguelen Island for sealing. They wanted to
know if it was not rather "ennuyeux" here. The Captain's brother went to
Repetto to arrange business and was afterwards brought to us. Meanwhile
another vessel had been sighted and the men drew lots who should go out to
it. Monsieur Rallier du Baty stayed and had lunch with us. He was such a
pleasant gentlemanly man and most easy to talk to. I never talked so much
French to any one before. Sometimes I got grounded. I understood him to
say that his ship was being sent out by the French Government to Kerguelen
for scientific research, that they intend staying there a year, and that
they also hope to do some sealing. They had named their boat the _J. B.
Charcot_, after Dr. Charcot, with whom one of them had been on an
Antarctic expedition. Graham asked him about two meteorological
instruments which he has not been quite sure how to set, and he has very
kindly showed him how to set them. M. Rallier told us after they left
Cherbourg they met with very bad weather and had to put in to Brixham for
repairs, by which they were delayed three weeks. From there they went on
to Madeira, then to Rio Janeiro, and next touched here. He was much
interested to know what had brought us to Tristan. He knew about the wreck
of the _Blendon Hall_ and had passed close to Inaccessible to view the
scene of the wreck.
Our men boarded the other ship sighted, which proved to be a Norwegian one
bound for Adelaide.
_Monday, February_ 3.--On Saturday evening Repetto came in with some
things which the French captain had very kindly sent us--potted meat, a
tin of butter, jam which he specially sent word was from England, and also
carrot, leek and onion seeds, which are particularly acceptable.
A ship was seen to-day, but the men did not go out. It came close in and I
think the men were sorry afterwards they had not gone to it.
_Friday, February_ 7.--Yesterday Graham and Alfred began to cut the corn,
and to-day, taking a holiday, finished it. I bound the sheaves and stood
them up in shocks.
Part of the morning I spent in butter-making. I found the best method was
to work with the churn standing in the stream, and after the butter came
and was washed to leave it standing there. The result was very firm, good
butter. As a rule Ellen does the churning.
This afternoon was given to threshing wheat and a very slow process it
was. A sail was spread in the field and I and the older boys tried to
beat and rub the wheat out. In olden days the people threshed in their
sitting-rooms. We also did a little winnowing, throwing the wheat up for
the wind to blow the chaff away. I should think all our efforts did not
produce more than a quarter of a bushel.
Just now the men are busy digging potatoes. They are finding a good deal
of disease in them, but probably will have enough to last through the
season, as they always sow more than they require.
_Sunday, February_ 9.--The other day at school a short piece from Mr.
Peck's journal was read to the children, who were told to write out what
they could remember of it. One little girl of nine began, "Mr. Peck live
in a bag." The fur bag that he slept in interested them far more than
anything else. The Sunday class of girls is very well attended, no girl
staying away unless ill. It is difficult to get replies from some of them,
but there are one or two who give very intelligent answers.
_Tuesday, February_ 11.--It is a thick misty day, but a ship is coming in.
The men have had such a rush to get off, some having run all the way from
the Potato patches and arriving on the beach in a great state of heat. In
a few minutes others appeared just as the second boat was going off, one
so breathless he could not speak. But after all their efforts they failed
to reach the ship, which kept too far out.
_Wednesday, February_ 12.--Last Saturday all the school-children were
turned into the wheat-field to help to thresh the wheat. Flails had been
made by tying pieces of wood to cricket stumps. The boys beat the sheaves
with great energy, especially the younger ones. Graham and I have spent
our whole afternoon in threshing and he is now winnowing by moonlight.
_Monday, February_ 17.--On Friday afternoon with the girls' help we
finished threshing the wheat and the next day winnowed it.
_Tuesday, February_ 18.--Mrs. Andrew Swain brought us this evening a few
apples and four peaches. These are the first peaches we have seen; they
are green, but will soon ripen. Her husband brought about half a bushel
home, but the trees rarely bear; probably they are too old.
We had seriously thought this week of camping out near the ponds. For a
tent we should have taken an old sail. The weather, however, has become so
unsettled we have given up the idea.
_Thursday, February_ 20.--Graham ground a little wheat yesterday between
two stones and I made a loaf of it, which he says is the best brown bread
he has ever tasted.
We have just been taking a turn in the dusk, and on the way called at the
Repettos' to find out the name of the owners of the _Greta Holme_, the
steamer which has been here more than once. We think we may perhaps get it
to call for us to take us home.
_Monday, February_ 24.--It is such a quiet evening, the lamps are lit and
the windows are wide open and we can plainly hear the gurgling of the
stream outside.
On Saturday Charlie Green came in to say that he and his mother wish to go
back to their house. It is the one in which we hold church and school.
After hearing what he had to say we told him to ask his mother to come and
see us to-day, which she has done. She feels she must go back to her house
and would like to move into it this week, and we feel we cannot say
anything against it, for this is the fourth time she has given it up for
the same purpose.
_Wednesday, February_ 26.--A meeting took place this morning at 7.30 to
consider where church and school are now to be held. Lavarello first
offered for his mother-in-law, Mary Glass, her room for school. Then
followed a discussion as to where service should be held. Finally Repetto
said they would be willing to give up their house entirely for church and
school, they themselves living in the adjoining cottage, if they could put
two of the girls out to sleep. It was agreed that if this could be
arranged the school should be there.
We offered to Mrs. Repetto to take her two elder girls, but she had
arranged for them to go to her mother. It is a sacrifice to the Repettos
to give up their house, for they take real pride in it and they go out at
great personal inconvenience, for they will have to live in two small
rooms, one of which is his workshop. She spoke very nicely about it,
saying they were doing it for God. She also spoke warmly of the Sunday
services and said she could not think how any one could sit in church and
not be touched by them. Nothing but illness keeps her away.
At the meeting the men agreed to build a church, and spoke of beginning
it when the potato digging is over. They will put up the stonework and
leave the roof till the next clergyman comes, and say they will put no
fire-place in it and then no one can use it as a house. As there is no
house for school we are having a holiday. We went yesterday to pack up the
school things and found the men already at work putting up the partitions.
Mrs. Green will benefit by the new window-panes and we are glad she
should. We have enough left for the rooms into which the Repettos are
going.
[Illustration: THE OLD CHURCH HOUSE]
_Friday, February_ 28.--Men are working at Repetto's house to turn it into
the school-chapel. This house is really the church of the island, as its
history shows. It was built by a man named William Daley for himself. When
Mr. Taylor the clergyman came it was bought for his church. It was valued
at twenty-seven pounds, and nine men each gave three pounds. The nine were
Corporal Glass, Alexander Cotton, Thomas Hill Swain, Peter Green, Richard
Riley, Andrew Hagan, Charles Taylor, Peter Mellor(?), and William Daley,
the owner. When Mr. Taylor left he told the people who remained they
could do what they liked with the church. Thereupon the nine buyers or
their representatives each claimed a three-pound share in it. The claim to
these shares has been handed down. Miss Cotton claims one from her father,
Martha Green one from her husband, the mother of Sam Swain, senior, one.
But Matilda Hagan, the daughter of Peter Green, is said to claim the most.
Repetto's workshop has been cleaned out, floored, and whitewashed, and
looks quite nice. The ceiling is very low, so I have exhorted them to have
their bedroom window open at night as she feels the need of air since her
heart-attacks. He has just brought in a large bureau made by himself and
which he has asked us to house. Our room is already packed, but we have
been able to find a place for it by turning out a table which will be
useful at school.
_Saturday, February_ 29.--To-day all the men, with the exception of three,
went off to Inaccessible for sealing. We are now having beautiful weather.
_Tuesday, March_ 3.--To-day a ship was in sight and we were regretting
there was no boat to go out to her, all four having been taken to
Inaccessible. But presently we heard that two boats from Inaccessible
were to be seen in the distance. These got alongside the ship, which was
an Italian one, but the captain would not stop. All the men have now
returned. They secured eleven seals and think they could have got more,
but were afraid to stay longer for fear of missing ships. They brought
some plants back.
_Ash-Wednesday, March_ 4.--All the men and a good many women went off
to-day in three boats to Sandy Point to gather apples and are spending the
night there.
Caroline Swain came to tea.
_Thursday, March_ 5.--We have begun daily service and hope to continue it
as long as we are here.
It was too breezy for the boats to come back to-day, so most of the people
have walked home. It is quite a ten miles' walk, a part of it over great
boulders along the shore and a part over Big Point, where there is an ugly
bit of climbing to be done. It took them about seven hours. Mrs. Repetto
says it is the last time _she_ shall do it.
With daily service at 9 o'clock it is rather a rush, and this morning I
had baking on hand; the dough had risen so that it had poured over the tin
like so much froth and I had to gather it up and re-knead it. I had to
start baking it before church and when I got back the fire was nearly out.
_Tuesday, March_ 10.--About midday a big ship appeared on the horizon
opposite the settlement. The men started out and seemed confident of
reaching her, though at times she could not be seen. They have not yet
returned, though it is nearly 8 o'clock. It is always so interesting to
hear how they have fared, and, of course, it is the one excitement and
variety in the life here.
8.45.--We have just heard the whistle of the returning boats, and, as
usual, the dogs have started barking.
_Wednesday, March_ 11.--The ship was a Scotch one bound for Australia and
had come out from London in forty-one days. The captain seemed a kind man
and allowed the men several hours on board. He sent Graham two books,
Milton's poems was one, and asked him to write to him, which, of course,
he will do.
_Thursday, March_ 12.--We are having a spell of wet weather. It is
difficult to keep dryshod going backwards and forwards to school. The new
school-house is a little nearer than the old, but there is no track and
the long bents in the grass are very wetting. Happily we are not short of
boots and shoes.
We went this afternoon for a short walk and passed a rock the shape of an
arm-chair, and called Glass's arm-chair. When he was old the Corporal used
to find his way to this seat, which overlooks Big Beach and commands a
good view of the sea.
A few weeks ago we put on our clocks an hour, thinking to get an extra
hour of daylight, but we find the plan does not answer and have had to put
them back again. The people got up no earlier and the result was that some
of the boys and girls came to school without any breakfast.
_Wednesday, March_ l8.--This afternoon Graham went for a nine miles' walk
with Arthur Repetto and came across two donkeys that had been tethered at
the Bluff since yesterday morning and had nothing to eat. One could only
move a foot or two, the rope having got wound round its leg. They moved
them to fresh ground, but could find no water to give them. The riders had
walked over to Seal Bay. A boat went there two days ago for feathers and
oil, but has not been able to return for want of the right wind.
_Thursday, March_ 19.--The Greens sent us some beautiful large apples from
their orchard at the Bay. All the apples are a better size this year owing
to having been picked a month later.
CHAPTER XXVII
_Thursday, March_ 26.--The event of events has happened, the _Greyhound_
has come. It was first seen when we were in church on Sunday morning. Two
boats went out to her and in the afternoon returned with Mr. Keytel,
seventeen persons from the Cape, and the mail. Hearing Mr. Keytel had
landed Graham and I sallied forth to greet him. He was looking very
cheerful and well, and was accompanied by two large dogs. The mail-bags
were soon brought to the house. But Mr. Keytel said before anything was
done he must show us the photographs which he took when here last year. We
looked at them with the greatest interest and thought them excellent. We
then went to service, and after it, came back and opened the mail in a
crowded room. It was a large mail and took some time to dispose of. Mr.
Keytel had much to tell us. He had had great difficulties to contend with,
as everything seemed against his coming.
Now a few words about the people he has brought with him. Three of them,
Joe Glass, Bob Glass and Jim Hagan, were born on the island and left it as
young men about fifteen years ago. In South Africa they married three
white women, sisters. With their wives and children they number sixteen.
The seventeenth, a young unmarried man named Joe Hagan, was also born
here. I do not think the greater part of the islanders are particularly
pleased at this invasion.
[Illustration: LANDING GOODS]
On Monday the boats made several journeys to the schooner and got on
well with the unloading. Nothing more is to be done until Mr. Keytel
has visited Gough Island. He expects to be away about a fortnight. On
Tuesday morning the schooner came in well, and all were on the shore
ready to embark for Gough Island, which is about two hundred miles to the
south-east. Mr. Keytel was keen upon Graham going, and as nearly all our
men are going and he may not have such an opportunity again he decided to
accept his kind offer and go. By the time the boats were launched the
schooner began to move further out, the sea waking up a little. Before
long she was lost to sight and after a vain chase the three boats came
back. It was most trying for Mr. Keytel, for every day lost is a
consideration to him.
The Repettos are very much upset because some of the new-comers are trying
to take their house. Yesterday just before embarking two of them
threateningly said they meant to have it, and one took off his coat to
fight Repetto. This is the house whose ownership is disputed, several
people claiming shares in it, the mother of the young man who wanted to
fight claiming the most. She used to live in it and when she left the
island begged the Repettos to leave the one in which they were living and
to go into hers and take care of it for her. The young man has not
produced any letter or paper from his mother to the effect that she wishes
the Repettos to give up occupation. We have told the Repettos they need
not be afraid and that if they do not retaliate Graham and Mr. Keytel will
stand by them and see that right is done.
_Friday, March_ 27.--The winds are still against the schooner putting in.
One of the Bob Glass children has been seriously ill and delirious, the
result it is thought of a fall or a sunstroke. I went to see it and
advised a dose of castor-oil. Going again in the afternoon I found the
child up and standing outside the front door, apparently well. The mother
had been up all night and quite thought she was going to lose him.
_Saturday, March_ 28.--To-day matters came to a climax about the Repettos'
house. The two men started taking possession by mending a hole in the
roof. Ellen pointed them out to me as we were coming home from church. I
thought I had better go back and let Graham know what they were doing. He
went out at once and asked them if they had Repetto's leave to do the
work. They said, "No." "Then," said Graham, "I cannot let you do it."
Meanwhile as I passed the door Repetto said he had something he wanted to
show me, would I come in. I could see they were both very upset. Soon John
Glass, who had been helping the men on the roof, came in looking, I
thought, a little ashamed. I told him he had made a mistake in having
anything to do with the business, and said, "How would you like it if some
one were to come and work on your roof without asking you first?" He said
he would not like it. I told him the best thing he could do was to go home
and have nothing more to do with it, and he went. Then his brother, Joe
Glass, who was really the instigator of it all, came and looked over the
door. I gave him, too, a piece of my mind, and after a time he went away.
Presently the young man appeared looking very menacing. He walked up to
his cousin, Mrs. Repetto, showing his fists. I was dreadfully afraid she
might lose her temper and strike him, and then I do not know what might
have happened. I rushed off for Graham, who was taking school, and he came
at once. He told the young man if he could satisfy him that he had his
mother's authority to take the house he should have it, after the Repettos
had been given a reasonable time to find another. If he could not so
satisfy him then the Repettos would remain in possession. He went on to
say he was here as a clergyman with the knowledge and consent of the
Government; that it was his duty to do his best to prevent any breach of
the peace and that he intended to do so. He would see that justice was
done just as a magistrate would. He warned him and all that if there were
any further disturbance those causing it would run the risk of being sent
from the island, for he should report the whole matter to the Government.
Things now began to calm down and Graham went back to school. Poor Mrs.
Repetto had quite broken down, and at sight of her it was as much as her
husband could do to keep his temper. But they spoke very nicely to the
young man and said if he had a paper from his mother saying he was to have
the house, of course they would give it up; and if he liked they would
give up their bedroom to him in any case. Then Repetto went outside with
him and said he wanted to be his friend, not his enemy. Finally the young
man came back and said he was very sorry for the way he had behaved and
that they should hear no more about the house, and went up and kissed Mrs.
Repetto and her mother. Then he shook hands with me and said how sorry he
was and that there should be no more trouble. The Repettos said to me
afterwards we have never seen anything like this before on the island,
asking for forgiveness as he did. If there had been any angry words in the
first instance from them there would no doubt have been a fight.
_Tuesday, March_ 3l.--The men have all been busy to-day roofing a small
empty one-roomed house for Joe Glass which Andrew Hagan is said to have
sold him for £10.
This afternoon Graham and Mr. Keytel have been looking at a small disused
house near here which Henry Green uses as a lamb-house, and which Mr.
Keytel thinks will do for him if Henry will let him have it. Till a house
is ready for him he will, I hope, remain with us.
The schooner, which has been out a week, has not yet been seen.
_Wednesday, April_ 1.--She has been sighted this afternoon. A day or two
ago there was a gale, which probably blew her a long way out. The poor
captain must be having rather a bad time.
_Thursday, April_ 2.--She came in to-day and Mr. Keytel has started for
Gough Island. Several of the men did not want to go, pleading colds as an
excuse. Mr. Keytel had to go round and work them up, and they finally all
went except John Glass. It has taken us a long time to really know the
people. They are very pleasant and kind, but everything is not as it
appears on the surface.
_Friday, April_ 3.--This has been a most beautiful day. It seemed a pity
not to make the most of it, so we decided to go westward, taking a donkey.
The Repettos said we might have theirs, but as it took Arthur four hours
to catch it we did not get off till noon. We were glad to lunch under the
shadow of a rock, for it was really hot. Then we went for another mile or
two, tethered the donkey, and rested. After brewing some tea we started
for home just as the sun was setting in a cloudless sky. We mean to go on
such expeditions every now and then, as they freshen us up for the daily
round.
_Saturday, April_ 4.--Last night Glass came to say that old Caroline, his
aunt, was much worse and to ask if Graham would go and read to her. Graham
found her very ill, but conscious and able to understand what was said. He
told Glass to come again in the night if necessary. About 11 o'clock he
came again to tell us Caroline was dying. Graham hurried up and went
across, but she had passed away. That evening she had asked Mrs. Lavarello
to read to her her favourite hymn, "How sweet the name of Jesus sounds in
a believer's ear."
It was thought necessary to have the funeral to-day, to-morrow being
Sunday. Graham helped Glass as much as he could in making the coffin. The
great difficulty was to find wood for it; the lid was made of fourteen
pieces. Graham lined the coffin and I painted the name, age and date on
it. The two elder boys, Alfred and William, worked at the grave, and very
well they did it. Alfred was not really up to the work, having been ill,
but he would not give in. Graham and Glass finished the digging. Mrs. Bob
Glass has been quite a stand-by for the women. The funeral was at four
o'clock. Glass and the three boys were the bearers, and managed very well.
As usual, a British flag was used as a pall, which especially became a
daughter of one of Nelson's sailors. Almost every one was present and was
dressed in black. At the close of the service her favourite hymn was sung.
There were four wreaths placed on the grave. The tiny cemetery, bordered
by big blocks of stone and the people grouped inside between the
gravestones, presented a striking picture against the distant sea and
setting sun. I felt so thankful that Graham and Glass had not gone to
Gough Island. The latter stayed because his aunt was ill, but no one
thought of her being so near the end. An influenza cold was no doubt the
immediate cause of her death. She was seventy-nine, but looked more like
ninety.
_Sunday, April_ 5.--We had not many at the morning service, and those who
were there had such bad colds it was as much as we could do to get through
the hymns. I had only two girls at the class instead of seven.
I went to see Eliza Hagan, a sister of Caroline Swain, and for once found
her alone. She has now two step-sons and their families living in her
house.
_Monday, April_ 6.--This evening Fred Swain came in to say his little baby
brother had scalded his foot and to ask for something to put on it. I
thought I had better go and see it. It was not an easy matter to dress the
child's foot, for he kicked vigorously all the time, more, I think, from
fright than pain, for he stopped directly it was bound up.
_Wednesday, April_ 8.--We entered on our third year to-day. Graham has
started afternoon school from two to half-past three. A late school does
not answer, as the boys have to fetch their cows home and often have a
long distance to go for them.
_Thursday, April_ 9.--All our spare time is taken up in answering letters.
We are having a spell of wet weather and I fear the new-comers are feeling
a little depressed, but I dare say they will cheer up when the schooner
returns.
_Friday, April_ 10.--We have been opening two good-sized parcels from Mrs.
J--- of Bulford Camp. It contains such useful things, pinafores,
crossovers, haberdashery, writing-paper, pencils and pens.
_Saturday morning, April_ 11.--A ship has been sighted to the westward; we
think it may be the schooner, which has been away ten days.
_Evening_.--We were right, it was the schooner; the three boats landed
this afternoon. We went to meet them and thought the men looked very
dejected. It seems they never reached their destination. They met with
very bad weather and never sighted Gough Island. From what we have heard
since we feel sure the captain never intended they should. We are sorry
for Mr. Keytel, for so far things have not been very propitious, but hope
that with a bad beginning may come a good ending. He has not come ashore,
but will stay on the ship till all the business is done.
We are very sorry to hear that there has been a great deal of thieving on
board, and we fear the newcomers are involved in it. One man says that
every case of ours has been opened. It remains to be seen how far this is
true. Another says he saw quite enough on the trip to Gough Island.
Parcels for the people are missing, and one addressed to us by Miss
M---- containing things for some of the people has been opened and a large
piece of bed-ticking taken out.
_Monday, April_ l3.--To-day the schooner came in, but the men said it was
too rough to go out. Some, I think, did not want to, so no business was
done.
Our cases were brought up from the beach; the greater part of them have
been opened and fastened up again, but as far as we can see but little has
been abstracted. The men who brought them up enjoyed unpacking some of
them for us, and were most interested in discussing how a large iron
saucepan cracked in three places could be mended.
Graham is laid up with a bad pain in his chest and back, and can hardly
sleep for it at night.
_Tuesday, April_ l4.--A wet and misty day, and the schooner not seen.
I went up to see Alfred Green, who is very poorly with a bad cough and a
pain in his side. I put on a mustard-leaf. He is such a steady young
fellow and sets a good example both in and out of school.
_Wednesday, April_ 15.--I persuaded Graham to remain indoors to-day. I had
a busy morning. First, I went out and took the readings of the
thermometers, then soon after nine went up to church to read the daily
service. From there I went to the Andrew Swains' to dress the baby's
scalded foot. He cried more lustily than ever, but this will be the last
dressing that will be necessary, the wound having healed beautifully. I
then retraced my steps to the Henry Greens' to inquire after Alfred, who
is a little better. His mother thought another mustard-leaf would do him
good, so I came home for it and before long took it up and put it on.
_Thursday, April_ 16.--No unloading has been done since Saturday.
I had to administer a caning to little Charlie this morning. William told
me he was constantly cruel to his dog by beating it for no reason. We had
often heard the dog crying out. I believe the mother was not overpleased
at the chastisement, but Graham always comes down upon the boys if he
hears of any cruelty.
_Good Friday_.--I took both services to-day.
_Saturday, April_ 18.--The schooner came in to-day and has been unloading.
Mr. Keytel is shipping for the Cape two hundred sheep, which he expects to
put on board to-morrow. We are sorry it has to be done on Sunday. As the
schooner will probably leave the same day we are finishing our letters
to-night.
We have been much interested to hear about the snails sent to Cambridge.
In acknowledging their receipt the Professor writes: "The conical ones are
no doubt _Siphonaria Lessoni_, a species found all round the south end of
South America; and the 'scaly' one is _Magellanic Chiton_." And again:
"You will note the connection with _Magellanica_. The _Magellanica_ is
evidently the typical circumpolar fauna; and even Kerguelen Island is much
more akin to Magellanica than to Africa or New Zealand. I should expect
Tristan to be the same, though it has a distinctly European element in
Balea."
CHAPTER XXVIII
_Easter Sunday_.--Very few elders were at either morning or afternoon
service, only two or three of the regular ones. Graham was not able to get
out, but is improving.
The men were occupied in getting the sheep down to the shore, but in the
end were not able to put off, for heavy rain came on and the sea grew
rough; one boat started, but had to come back.
_Monday, April_ 20.--No business could be done with the ship to-day; it
had been blown eastward. The weather has been bad and there have been
heavy rain-storms.
One of Mr. Keytel's dogs, a well-bred pointer, has taken up his abode with
us while his master is on the ship. We dare not leave him for an instant
in the room by himself if there is any food on the table. The other
morning he ate our breakfast of bacon, which had been prepared as an
especial delicacy.
_Tuesday, April_ 21.--Another stormy day, and nothing seen of the
schooner.
This afternoon school began again; Ellen is helping me with the infants.
Nearly all the children attended.
_Wednesday, April_ 22.--There was a very small school, for many boys were
away helping to collect the sheep for the schooner, which was coming in,
and some were playing truant. The sheep were carted down to the shore and
the men were ready for embarking, when the ship moved out, and so all
their labour was again in vain. The sea was "making up," and to-night is
stormy. It is rather late in the year for a sailing-ship to do business.
_Thursday, April_ 23.--A roughish sea. No sign of the schooner.
I had some trouble in school to-day with one of the new scholars, a boy of
eleven. He thinks he can come to school late, not learn his lessons, and
do just as he pleases. I had to cane him. He fought all the time, but at
last subsided and meekly went back to his place. I felt breathless, and I
am sure the children were breathless with surprise at such behaviour. I
had a talk with him afterwards when he stayed behind to learn his lessons.
I think that, after his Cape school, he rather looks down upon a little
school like this. It is remarkable how well he and his younger brother
have been taught to read.
_Friday, April_ 24.--A fairly rough sea and no sign of the schooner.
I have spent the afternoon writing, at Graham's dictation, his yearly
report to the Colonial Office; to-morrow I hope we may finish it.
_Saturday, April_ 25.--No appearance of the schooner. The wind is rising
to-night.
_Sunday, April_ 26.--There were better congregations to-day, with a
sprinkling of men.
No schooner.
_Monday, April_ 27.--Our eyes have scanned the horizon in vain, but I feel
sure we shall see the schooner to-morrow. Graham has quite made up his
mind that we cannot go home by it next year. It has no accommodation for
passengers beyond the hold.
_Tuesday, April_ 28.--The people had become somewhat anxious about the
schooner's non-appearance, but to-day it appeared on the horizon. It was
too rough, however, for any business to be done, though one boat went out
with the mail. It is a rough night again.
_Wednesday, April_ 29.--Too wet and stormy for either church or school.
In one of our letters we were asked what is our daily menu, so I give it
here. Breakfast: milk-coffee, bread and butter, and a boiled egg when in
season, varied with grape-nuts, porridge, or occasionally fish. Dinner:
mutton, either hot, cold, or curried. About five days a week milk
puddings, sometimes served with stewed dried fruit. Supper: tea, bread and
butter, cold meat or fish. Fish is rather an uncertainty, but when it does
come it is fresh. The people always bring it scaled and cleaned.
_Thursday, April_ 30.--Nothing has been seen of the schooner to-day.
_Friday, May_ 1.--I am taking school for a short time each morning just to
keep the children up in reading and writing. I also give them Bible
instruction and hear their lessons.
We have again an invasion of mice or small rats. A day or two ago one was
found drowned in the milk-pan, this morning a second in the water-pail,
and a third in the milk-jug. A great many have been caught in the loft,
and occasionally we see them in the sitting-room popping in and out of
holes when all is quiet.
_Saturday, May_ 2.--The schooner was sighted this morning, but there was
not enough breeze to bring her in.
_Sunday, May_ 3.--This morning we were awakened by a loud shouting. It was
one of the men arousing the settlement. The sheep had to be driven in and
taken down for embarkation.
_Tuesday, May_ 5.--The schooner will probably leave for good to-day. The
only thing that now remains to be done is to take a few more sheep on
board and barrels of water for them. The crew are to look after the sheep
and every day will have to give each one a bottleful of water. Mr. Keytel
says that the poor sheep have been very roughly handled, and even, in
some cases, have had their horns broken. He came in early this morning
with Bob Glass, who, I thought, looked rather uncomfortable when we talked
about the things that have been stolen. One of these, we very much fear,
is the bale of calico from Carlisle, which would have been such a boon to
the people. We have been told it has been seen on board since the ship has
been here, and I believe it is on the island. We feel sure our Tristanites
have nothing to do with its disappearance. We fear we have also lost one
or two small parcels from the Cape. The Henry Greens have lost a box
containing clothing, groceries, and a good clock which they had sent to
the Cape to be mended.
9.15 p.m.--The schooner is off at last; and, really, we are glad, for
every one will be able to settle down to ordinary life again.
_Thursday, May_ 7.--Ellen and I spent the morning in cutting up material,
and making up parcels to send round to each family. We wish the people
would show a little more gratitude. I think they are pleased, but they do
not show it in the least. There was only one who showed gratitude, and she
sent a thousand thanks and said how useful the materials would be, for she
had just made up her mind to cut up some of her own and her husband's
clothes to make shirts for the boys. The people had nearly all run out of
sewing-cotton, so the supply just sent by friends has come in most
usefully. I have been able to give two reels to each family and to keep
some in reserve. This time we divided the material ourselves, because we
wished it to go to those who needed it most.
The men are working at Henry Green's lamb-house to turn it into a
residence for Mr. Keytel. They are rebuilding the west wall, laying down a
floor, and putting on a zinc roof.
_Saturday, May_ 9.--Graham and Mr. Keytel are having a game of chess. The
former is much better than he was, but has still to lead an invalid life.
Some nights he gets but little sleep on account of rain, and has to pace
up and down a good deal.
Our fine weather has broken, and to-day we have had heavy rain and a
thunderstorm.
_Monday, May_ ll.--Yesterday I had again to take the two services. I felt
rather alarmed in the morning, for Mr. Keytel was present. The church was
full each time. I began school again to-day after a week's holiday. It is
rather a business, taking the whole school in hand; and teaching is not
much in my line. This morning David Hagan began to roar because I took him
from his sister's lap and put him with his class. He would not stop, so I
was obliged to put him in the vestry, where he continued roaring and
occasionally uttered threats. During it all I had to go on hearing
lessons. At last he stopped, so I brought him out and put him again with
the infants, and had no more trouble with him. I give the class easy
mental arithmetic, which is much less trouble than putting down figures.
_Saturday, May_ 16.--To-day it was warm, without wind, and Graham went out
for the first time. He has made a great advance in the last two or three
days. We made our way up to Mr. Keytel's house. The work goes on slowly,
as the men are uncertain and turn up when they like. Henry Green and
Repetto are the two reliable ones. Mr. Keytel is rather disappointed in
the men; he thought they would have done what they could for him, as he is
trying to work up a trade. He says he has already lost two or three
hundred pounds. He does not, however, seem disheartened. I think the house
will look very well when finished. It consists of two rooms. Round each,
six inches from the wall, he has put on a framework of wood canvas, which
will be painted white. This will both keep out the damp and make the room
lighter.
_Tuesday, May_ 19.--It is difficult to find time for writing in the
evening now, as we talk so much. We generally end up with a game of
Tiddley Winks. Ellen and I usually get beaten; the two men want us to
change partners, but I will not.
To-day Graham came in at the end of school. Every one seems unfeignedly
pleased to see him out again.
We wish Tristan could be what it was before the new-comers came. Mr.
Keytel has been opening some of his cases, and from the first two finds
hatchets and rugs missing. Graham intends to give those whom it concerns a
piece of his mind when he is well.
[Illustration: MRS. REPETTO FISHING]
_Wednesday, May_ 20.--Graham was able to take service, but did not stay
for school. He came for me after school, and we walked down to the shore
and watched Mrs. Repetto catching craw-fish. She got her skirt and feet
very wet in the process. I was amused the other night by Mr. Keytel saying
to Graham, "You had better wait one more Sunday before taking the service,
Mrs. Barrow gives us good teaching."
_Thursday, May_ 2l.--I spent the afternoon doctoring the poultry. To my
surprise every hen and chicken I caught had "pip," a horny substance under
the tongue and rather hard to get off. I operated on nearly thirty. The
fowls are rather a trouble, from their habit of getting into all sorts of
impossible places. The other day I found a hen on the pillow and her
chickens on the dressing-table and window-sill.