_Friday, August_ 10.--We had a gale last Wednesday. It was with some

difficulty we got to the women's meeting which had been postponed the day

before on account of the weather; we had to go by a circuitous route. Only

three women came, and I was debating whether to have the meeting when I

missed my spectacles. I felt sure they had been blown off by the wind.

Mrs. Repetto and Mrs. Hagan went off to search for them, and Ellen and I

soon followed. It seemed rather a hopeless task as we had come by such a

round-about way. I went home to see if I could possibly have left them

behind; but no, they were not there. The loss of them was rather serious,

as I had broken my pince-nez the day after landing. I felt sure they would

be found if only we searched long enough, and presently I came across one

half of them. By this time about fourteen people, men as well as women,

were looking for them. The gale was terrific, and when the gusts came the

only thing to do was to crouch down. It was a comical sight, and I wish I

could have photographed it. I was caught hold of several times by one of

the elder girls and held when the gusts came. I promised a pot of jam to

the one who should find the other half of the spectacles. We had been out

over an hour and were beginning to think we must leave further search till

the morning when John Glass found it. It had been blown some distance from

the spot where I had found the first half. Glass was going to take them

home to try to mend them when he was called off to a poor cow that had

fallen down. At his suggestion Graham took them to Repetto, who brought

them down in the evening. He is going to mend my pince-nez with a watch

spring. From what he told us I fear the loss of cattle must be close upon

a hundred.

_Monday, August_ 13.--We have been building a most delightful castle in

the air to-day. If a man-of-war comes we might go back in it to Cape Town

and try to arrange with some enterprising person to come in a schooner and

buy up the cattle here at a low price. What commissions we should have to

execute for the people!

This has been a full day from morning till evening. I began laundry work

at 7.30, made a yeast, then potato-cakes, superintended the planting of

peach-slips against the house, paid a visit to Mrs. Henry Green, and

entertained about seven visitors--several with requests to be attended to.

Graham was digging all the afternoon.

_Tuesday, August_ 14.--Little Edith Swain, one of the infants, has had a

cough, and as her mother said she thought she had not warm enough

clothing, I set to and knitted her a vest in two days. This morning Edith

appeared alone, and pushing past Ellen, who opened the door, came and put

into my hand something tied up in a pocket-handkerchief, which something

proved to be a pair of stockings. Her mother, who came in later, told me

that Edith asked if she could not give Mrs. Barrow a present, so she gave

her the pair of stockings to bring. She said to her mother, "Did you offer

Mrs. Barrow a cup of tea when she came?" She is not a very bright child

and cannot learn her ABC, though she learns by heart very nicely.

The Repetto's youngest child, Joe, who is not yet two, asked his father

for a book the other day and marched off to school with it. He got across

the brook without getting wet, and as he neared the school door was heard

singing, "Onward, Christian Soldiers." His sister Martha soon dispatched

him home, poor little fellow. Repetto came this afternoon with the

pince-nez which he had mended. He stayed supper and gave us further

instruction in netting.

_Wednesday, August 15_.--Today I sowed flower seeds; a performance which

intensely interested the children who crowded round the front door. I used

biscuit-tins for boxes, which William filled with soil. I have planted

bulbs of a Mentone creeper, love-in-a-mist, heather, sweet peas and canna

seeds. One does sadly miss the spring flowers. Afterwards I went down to

the beach with Sophy and the Repetto girls to pick up wood. Rob carried

the canvas bag which was rolled up, and it was amusing to see him

careering after the sea-hens (skua-gulls) at a tremendous pace with the

bag in his mouth. The girls picked up more wood than we could carry home.

We have had some more peach-slips brought, which we have planted under the

shelter of the flax, and yesterday William brought more than a dozen apple

trees and cuttings, and is going to bring some young fig trees. Thus we

shall have quite an orchard, if they grow, but the "if" is a big one. The

people do not seem to take any trouble with their fruit trees and hardly

ever prune them. Perhaps they are disheartened on account of the rats.

Most of the orchards are a long way off in sheltered ravines round the

island.

The men lead fairly busy lives. Last month they were occupied in drawing

out manure in the quaint bullock wagons to their potato patches, which are

about three miles off. It was no easy business as the bullocks were not up

to the work owing to their starved condition. Each man possesses about

three pairs of bullocks. This week they will begin planting potatoes, and

some of the children will have to be away from school as their help will

be needed.

This evening I made the small boys help to gather grass for the cattle,

which we threw to them over the wall. It gave me great satisfaction to see

them eating it, and a particularly lean one had quite a good feast. I try

to feed them every day, and get the Repetto girls to help.

I feel a little elated as I have made some rather good bread.

There was a thunderstorm to-day. The weather is quite spring-like, the

days are warm but the nights cold.

Ellen and I had such an evening yesterday. With much misgiving I

determined to try to develop some films--my first attempt. The kitchen was

the darkroom. We began operations soon after supper and did not get to bed

till nearly midnight. The developing was done under great difficulties.

The candle had to be renewed two or three times, and I was left in total

darkness at most critical moments. Notwithstanding, nine out of twelve

have come out fairly well. I hope I shall manage better next time.

Repetto has been talking over the cattle question with some of the men,

and telling them how much better off they would be if they limited the

number of cattle and sheep to be owned by each family, say, to ten cattle

and fifty sheep. He pointed out to them what a benefit it would be if a

schooner could come yearly to trade. He thinks the cattle ought to sell at

£3 a head. If possible Graham would go to the Cape with one of the men

chosen by themselves.

[Illustration: THE HENRY GREEN FAMILY AT WORK ON A POTATO PATCH]

_Friday, August_ 24.--Yesterday a ship came close in, but the sea was

rough and the men were busy at their potato patches.

_Monday, August_ 27.--Saturday was very blustery, and the rain came down

in torrents. We kept thinking of the poor cattle. Several were sheltering

under the wall at the bottom of the garden and looking so miserable. Ellen

and I felt sure one or two would be gone by morning; and sure enough they

were. Altogether twelve died that night. It really made me feel ill. The

number of deaths has now reached to one hundred and eighty-four. Betty's

cow that has several times clambered into the garden comes round sometimes

in the middle of the night, clattering up the stone pathway to see if it

can get in. It has just calved. The men are all very down-hearted, never

having had such losses before. Henry Green has lost over forty. Repetto,

who does not own many, has lost four, two bullocks and two cows, within a

few days. The two cows he had lately kept in his garden. Graham told him

that he thought the islanders had brought the loss upon themselves by

keeping too many.

_Tuesday, August_ 28.--Yesterday the wind was bitterly cold, to-day we are

in the lee and it is quite mild.

We had an early dinner as Graham had promised Rebekah to help her plant

potatoes. He went off with spade on shoulder and did not get home till

supper-time. Rebekah, accompanied by young Mrs. Swain, brought in some

cooked lamb for his supper. Mrs. Swain said Tom was full of his praises

because of the way he had worked; "he had done it better than any

stranger, and real splendid."

We heard to-day that the number of lost cattle has reached two hundred. A

very wet night.

_Wednesday, August_ 29.--To-day we have come across so many dead animals.

This morning close to the school a heifer, then this afternoon when Graham

and I went out for a walk we saw near Miss Cotton's field close to the

stream a poor dying ox. Graham went in search of some one and met

Lavarello coming with a bag of grass, but the poor beast was too far gone

to eat. I told Lavarello I hoped he would kill it, and he said he would

fetch a knife. We went on to the shore; there a young heifer lay dying, it

had fallen off the cliff. Further on we saw a dead donkey, and coming up

the cliff I saw another dead heifer. It makes one feel very sad and very

angry.

Ellen, who is anxious to do a little teaching, is taking on Monday and

Wednesday afternoons the children who are most backward in reading.

_Saturday, September_ 1.--Yesterday just across the watering we came upon

a poor cow which was down. I got it some grass, and the Swain girls coming

up helped to heave it up into a better position. Then old Mrs. Glass

brought it some more food, which it ate ravenously. We fed it again in the

afternoon. It belongs to the Lavarellos, who in the morning managed to get

it home. This is the only case I know of a cow which was down getting

better.

_Monday, September_ 3.--Betty's cow that we are so interested in has lost

its calf. If more to eat had been given the mother I do not think this

would have happened. The cow has been up to the house two or three times

to-day, and I have fed her well each time. Poor thing, it is so hungry. We

have had better weather the last few days, and are hoping for the animals'

sake this will be a fine month.

_Wednesday, September_ 5.--A most beautiful day. Graham and Repetto have

been sowing carrots, onions, lettuce, and parsley. I have put in some

flower seeds. I went several times to feed a poor bullock of Henry

Green's. It was standing when we first saw it in the morning and was just

able to get down to the stream to drink. I fed it frequently in the

afternoon, but when I went again at five o'clock it would eat nothing and

soon afterwards died.

The men were out fishing and brought back seven sacks of fish.

_Monday, September 10_.--Yesterday the fowls had a field day in the

flower-bed, and scratched up and ate a good many of the sweet peas.

This morning news was brought that "Molly," Betty's sick cow, was down.

Rebekah had found her early with her head caught under her body and too

weak to free herself. She was got up, and we have been feeding her on and

off all day. She stood in the field at the bottom of this garden until the

evening, when to our great surprise she dragged herself to the front of

the house where she has been so often fed. It is a wet rough night. I hope

she will not succumb.

_Wednesday, September l2_.--Poor "Molly" died yesterday morning. It had

poured hard all night, and she was found lying in Bob Green's yard. They

got her up, but she fell, and was pulled up again. Then she ate a little,

but again fell down panting, and nothing more could be done for her. I

feel very indignant about it, for if she had had shelter and more food,

both of which were possible, she would probably not have died. About two

hundred and eighty cattle have now died, and each day is adding to the

list.

After supper last night the Repettos came in. He was a little anxious

about his leg, which he cut just above the knee when skinning an animal.

The cut was rather deep, but it did not bleed. Now there is a lump which

seems to be gathering. I bathed it with Condy's fluid then and again next

morning, and told him to rest for two or three days.

It has been a lovely day; we have had so few with right sunshine and no

wind.

_Thursday, September 13_.--This morning I photographed the Sam Swain

family at their special request. Swain wants to send a photograph of the

family to his mother at the Cape. There was such an attiring of themselves

beforehand, but all the picturesqueness was gone when they appeared, for

they had discarded their handkerchiefs. Charlotte wanted to know if they

should wear hats instead. I was thankful to be able to say it would not do

as they would cast a shadow on their faces.

On Thursdays we have choir practice. It is amusing to see the harmonium

being carried up in triumph by two of the elder boys, a bevy of little

boys following at their heels, and one proud boy bearing some music. At

the end of the practice I have been teaching the children prayers for

morning and evening. I told them that as soon as they could say them off

by heart they should have the printed card. Last Thursday and to-day the

children came up in turn to say them. It took rather a long time, but

nearly all have gained the card.

Every afternoon now Graham is very busy building up the wall of the field

below our garden as he is anxious to grow a crop of hay. The men are very

dubious about it, but he intends to try for the sake of the cows. Tom

Rogers took a cow and calf in a boat to the other side of the island where

there is plenty of pasture. When he went to look at them yesterday the cow

was dead. It had probably been taken too late.

_Friday, September 14_.--Another full day. I have been three times to

young Mrs. Rogers to poultice an abscess. I have also been to bathe

Repetto's leg. Then old Mrs. Rogers came in for some arrowroot which

I had promised her for her daughter, Mrs. Bob Green, who has a baby girl.

We had the sewing-class as usual, and after it Ellen and I with a group

of children went to gather wood on Big Beach and got back home soon

after five o'clock. Graham, helped by Johnny Green, spent the afternoon

in building the wall of the field. It is rather heavy work getting

large stones up the bank. The other evening while Ellen and I were

developing films he was soling a pair of shoes. It was his first attempt

at boot-mending, and he has done it remarkably well.

This is the season for penguin eggs, and we have had a number given us. We

find them a great help in the daily menu. Milk at present is not

obtainable and potatoes are getting very scarce.

_Saturday, September 15_.--This morning I photographed the Repetto and the

Lavarello families, who want to send photographs to their relatives in

Italy.

CHAPTER XIII

_Monday, September 17_.--We are taking a week's holiday, but to-day there

has been little rest. I was up by 7.15 to do laundry work, then at 9.30

was with Mrs. Rogers dressing her wound. This afternoon I went to see Mrs.

Bob Green and her baby, also Miss Cotton. The latter seems to think these

are the worst times she has known. The people have never been without milk

before. The number of cattle that have died has now reached three hundred

and fifteen. The cow Bob Green is trying to save is slung in a shed. It is

so weak it can hardly walk. Little Charlie frightened it the other day and

it fell on its side. On Sunday it fell across the brook, from which

position it was extricated with the greatest difficulty. If it had not

been discovered it would have died.

_Wednesday, September 19_.--We have had two wet ays and have been very

busy in-doors. The people being short of tea and sugar, we thought that on

the anniversary of our wedding-day we would give out some we brought with

us. Notice having been given, they appeared en masse at the hour named,

but without anything to take provisions away in, so the younger women went

back to get tins. Graham gave out the sugar (2 lbs. each), and I the tea

(1 lb. each); but only half this quantity was given to widows and

unmarried women. The people were very pleased, and one or two came back

with offerings. I should think that in the last ten days we have had one

hundred eggs given us. Tom Rogers went to Sandy point and brought back

over two hundred penguin eggs. The men when they have spare time hunt for

young eaglets, of which they are now bringing in great quantities. These

are sea-birds, and look like grey, fluffy balls.

We have quite made up our minds to go to Cape Town to see about a

schooner. Though there will be no cattle to sell there will be a great

number of sheep. We shall take the first vessel we can get after October.

This morning it took me four hours to bake bread in a very hot kitchen.

_Thursday, September 20_.--This afternoon Ellen and I went to look at Mrs.

Hagan's grey cow, which is slowly pulling round. As we were watching it

the poor creature tripped going in at the gate, and falling on its side

had to be pulled up.

_Saturday, September 22_.--I spent nearly all yesterday at photography.

The morning was given to printing, the afternoon to developing the prints,

and the evening to developing negatives, which were mostly groups of the

different families and which came out fairly well.

Ellen and I have spent today at the potato patches. We started early,

wending our way slowly. At Hill Piece Rebekah joined us. It was sad to see

so many dead cattle lying about in every direction; the air is quite

vitiated. The potatoes are coming on well. We had our lunch under the lee

of a hill, at the foot of which were grazing a few miserable-looking

cattle. We came home most leisurely, and just as we were arriving at the

settlement heard that a vessel was to be seen to the west, and that the

men were going out to her. Repetto came for our letters on his way down to

the shore. But after all the men did not go, for when they got down to the

boats they found the ship was not coming this way, but passing between the

islands--that is, between us and Inaccessible and Nightingale, so they had

to bring all their things up from the beach again.

_Monday, September 24_.--We began school to-day feeling much fresher for

our holiday. Some of the men have gone off for penguin eggs. I wish they

did not take them in quite such a wholesale way.

_Tuesday, September 25_.--The men returned to-day from Sandy Point with

shoals of penguin eggs. Four different families have sent us some, seventy

in all, and as they are a good size, rather larger than a duck's, it will

take us some time to get through them.

This morning and afternoon I went to look at the invalid cows. Rebekah is

not wanting in spirit. Her cow was "down" at the potato patches. She had

it lifted into a cart and brought home at night. She has it slung and lets

it take an airing in the day. To-day we found it lying down on its side as

if dead, and if left long in this position it would have died. It was

hauled up by the women and girls and set on its legs. I went to see the

Hagans' and Tom Rogers' cows, which were out on the common. Both had to be

pulled up, which was done with the utmost difficulty. Their poor sides get

so sore from constant falls. The grass is really beginning to show a

little growth, but not enough to get much food off it.

This has been a most beautiful day and the air quite balmy. The seeds,

such as stock, nasturtium, linum, phlox, and sweet pea, are doing well in

the garden. The greater number of the apple-trees are showing life. We

watch everything growing with the greatest interest.

_Wednesday, September 26_.--About nine o'clock we heard there was a ship

to the westward; but Graham went off to school. While there he was told

Lavarello's cow was in the bog; and so he went out to it with Johnny and

two of the elder girls, they fetched a rope, then he and Johnny took off

their shoes and socks and waded into the bog. Soon several men came, who

heaved up the back legs of the cow while Graham and the others pulled at

the rope fastened to its horns. It was at last pulled out broadside on.

Its legs had completely sunk in the bog, and it would probably have

eventually sunk altogether, as many others before it, had it not been seen

in time. When I arrived at school I found the children as quiet and good

as if Graham were there. He soon came back, and almost immediately

dismissed school as the men were starting for the ship. He made up his

mind to go too. Only one boat was going, as some of the men had gone off

early in the other boat to hunt birds and get eggs. There was such a

packing of the animals into the boat; I do not like looking at them, they

are so frightened. One poor lamb died on its way to the shore. Some one

declared its death was caused by a child sitting on it, but I do not think

it was. They started off about eleven o'clock and did not get to the ship

till nearly three. At about six we went down to the shore with Mrs.

Repetto to meet them returning. They had no sooner landed than Rob had a

tremendous fight with her fox terrier. For some time we could not get them

separated. Graham got Rob by the back legs and dragged at him. In the

scramble we found ourselves in the surf, where I fell down. Still Rob held

on. At last by slapping him on the head and by pulling at his collar he

was made to let go. The fox terrier was snatched up and carried off.

The men were not very successful on the ship which was a Scotch one bound

for Adelaide. They got about a barrel of flour and some peas and beans.

Graham got a tin of butter which we think is margarine. We are glad to

have it as we have had no butter for a long time. After a time one gets

accustomed to going without. Our present difficulty is to get food for

Rob. We do not think he gets much from the people now. We have just made

an arrangement with the Repettos to let us have meat twice a week for him

in exchange for paraffin oil. We got one or two books off the ship--

_Robert Falconer_, and _Youth and Duty_, by Bishop Welldon. We have much

enjoyed _Temple Bar_.

I have been turning out some summer clothes, and washing and mending them

in preparation for the possible journey to Cape Town.

_Saturday, September 29_.--There is no doubt the best way to come out here

from England is by a sailing ship bound for Australia, that is, supposing

the ship would accept passengers for the island. The passage takes from

forty-five to sixty days.

_Wednesday, October 3_.--Last Friday, after the working party, Ellen and I

started off with a great number of children for Hill Top, near which there

is a good deal of wood washed down by the flood in the early winter. The

children enjoyed helping us to gather it; much of it was embedded in the

mud. The men passing by on their way home also lent their help by carrying

home some of the loads in sacks on their donkeys. There was much laughter

over the loading of one of the donkeys which turned restive. We left a

large heap behind to be brought by William another day. The oxen are so

weak they are hardly fit to draw even a light load. The dead cattle now

total three hundred and forty-eight.

[Illustration: PAIR OF PENGUINS ON A PORCH WITH TWO BOYS]

On Sunday William brought in a penguin which Sophy had caught. It is a

most droll bird in appearance, and has a yellow and black top-knot which

it raises when excited. It walks very erect--if walk it can be called--

sometimes jumping like a man in a sack, and sometimes waddling like a

bow-legged child. In the place of wings it has black flippers, and when

it walks these stand out like sails which adds to the droll appearance.

This is the bird from which the people extract the oil which they

generally burn, but it gives a very feeble light. On special occasions we

have requests for paraffin oil, of which, fortunately, we brought a good

supply.

Mrs. Andrew Swain has a little son. I have been once or twice to see her.

There is always some neighbour sitting with her; to-day there were three.

Graham has been getting soil from the farmyards to spread over the field

which is being put up for hay, and the wall of which he has just finished

repairing. The oxen are doing the drawing, but it is very slow work, and I

expect this year he will have to content himself with half the field. I

fear the flowers will not do very well because of the wind, but still if

only a few grow it will be something to look at. I should like to try

anemones.

Mollyhawk eggs are just in. They are large in size, of a long oval shape,

and with reddish-brown markings and spots. The men say this bird never

lays more than one egg each season.

_Sunday, October_ 7.--I got up about 6.30, made the beds and put the room

straight before early service. After breakfast I generally practise hymns,

and John Glass, who takes the harmonium up to church, comes in early, as

do William and some of the boys, to listen to the music. Confirmation

classes begin this week. Graham intends holding them twice a week, and

hopes men will attend as well as women. The Bishop told us that if a

man-of-war were sent he quite hoped to come by it.

_Tuesday, October_ 9.--John Glass has made each of us a pair of moccasins.

He brought them in with much satisfaction on Saturday evening, and we at

once tried them on. They are made with rather pointed toes which do not

quite suit our feet. They have to be put on damp so that they may take the

shape of the foot; and when they get very hard, as they do in summer, have

to be soaked in water. They soon wear out, generally not lasting longer

than three weeks, as the ground is so rocky.

Repetto is writing letters to be corrected by Graham, and really writes

them very well for one entirely self-taught. He and his wife are most

generous people and are always sending us small presents. I shall have

some quaint mats and little bags of skin made by the people to bring home.

The Hagans have lost the grey cow they watched over with such care. They

started slinging it too late, with the result that it got so bruised by

the constant falls it could not recover from them. Now they have only one

left, and the Repettos also have only one. The people depend much on their

milk.

An east wind has been blowing the last few days which tries the trees and

plants. The little peach-tree against the house is almost done for. I

protect the small seedlings in the garden by putting tins round and over

them. Plants are almost twisted out of their sockets.

_Thursday, October_ 11.--Yesterday Graham began the Confirmation Classes.

Most of the elders attended--nine men and fifteen women.

John Glass came in to-day to have his hand treated. It was much swollen

through, as he thinks, the bite of an insect. He had left it nearly two

days uncared for.

_Monday, October_ l5.--On Sunday morning just before service Mrs. Bob

Green came in for a remedy for her husband's foot which was badly swollen,

and from her account it also seemed to have been bitten by an insect. I

went across and found she had bathed it in hot water. We bathed it again,

adding soda. To-day it was very much better and our services not required.

Their little girl was christened yesterday Annie Gertrude Ellen.

Graham rose this morning about four o'clock to make an expedition up the

hill with William, Ben and several women. They got to the point where they

would have to climb, but rain coming on it was thought wiser to go no

further. Instead, they descended to the shore to pick up firewood.

This afternoon was rather harassing. Ellen was at school, and I had just

begun baking when Mrs. Martha Green appeared. She brought a beautiful pair

of stockings knitted by herself with great care, and also a present of

eggs. She stayed nearly two hours. I called Graham to my aid, for I could

not leave the bread. He took her round the garden, and by the time she

came back I was able to get some tea made. While we were having it Rebekah

came with a request for some sugar for an ailing child. A little later a

gift of eggs was brought, with a further request for sugar for a baby. The

people nearly always bring something when they come to ask for anything.

It is a busy life here; some days there seems no quiet, it is knock, knock

all day. I am beginning to feel the solace of gardening.

_Saturday, October_ 20.--On Thursday a meeting was held on the question of

a schooner coming to buy up cattle and sheep. Much had to be talked over.

Every one has given the number of cattle and sheep he or she will sell.

The question is whether there are enough to make it worth while for a

schooner to call. They hope to have also for sale about £60 worth of

potatoes and some wool. It is difficult to tell what the cost of a

schooner will be.

_Monday, October_ 22.--Almost every day one or another comes for medicine

or for medical treatment. To-day John Glass came in with a badly cut hand.

The simple remedies we brought have been a great boon.

_Wednesday, October_ 24.--It is little Joe Repetto's birthday. He has

brought a pair of socks for Graham, a pair of horns for Ellen with one of

his curls tied on to them, and a pair of horns for myself. The horns are

those of bullocks, and have been beautifully polished and mounted by his

father. I had made a little white pinafore for Joe. He is two years old

and has been coming to school for the last week or so, and behaves

admirably. He sometimes falls asleep, and I have to take him on my lap as

I teach.

We are daily hoping a ship will be coming this way. Betty Cotton says she

never remembers such a time of scarcity,--no potatoes, no milk, and no

flour. There is a little milk now, and the people are most kind in sending

us some even when it is not their week for serving us.

Poor Rebekah has lost the cow she took so much trouble over. A fatal

swelling of the throat set in. I saw a poor cow (with its calf) this

afternoon in its eagerness to get at some food which was being brought it,

fall over, it was so weak.

Last night Repetto, Mrs. Hagan and Rebekah were here. We tried to make

them see the importance of growing corn, which we think could be done if

it were shielded by flax; and also of starting enclosures near their

houses for growing trees; but they are difficult to move and have not the

same enterprise as the former generation. We have not been able to get any

more dressing for the field. That part which has had it looks so different

from the rest.

CHAPTER XIV

_Monday, October_ 29.--On Saturday night there was such a gale from the

north-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washing

right up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sunday

morning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there had

been a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas which

were in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowers

that have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I shall

try walled divisions on the flower-beds. Happily, the wind was not so

severe at the potato patches, and they have been damaged but little.

Mrs. Lavarello is suffering from a bruised leg caused by a fall on the

rocks when fishing. We urged upon her the need of resting it, but she

thought she could not because of her work. It is now so painful she is

obliged to keep it up almost entirely. I shall try to see her each day.

This afternoon Graham and I went for a long walk along the shore. Rain

coming on we tried to scale the cliff, but had to come down and return by

the shore, the wind and rain beating in our faces. By the time we got home

we were wet through, but felt all the better for the outing.

_Tuesday, October_ 30.--A very wet day. No Women's Meeting.

_Wednesday, October_ 3l.--We had been saying it looked as if the month

were going out without our seeing a ship, when to-day one appeared just

after school. Some of the men were out in a boat fishing, but were

signalled to by a fire being lit. They got back quickly, and the boats

started off by about two o'clock. It was bitterly cold and the sea rough.

Another ship was seen in the afternoon.

_Thursday, November_ 1.--The men returned last night. The ship was a

French one bound for Adelaide. They were not able to get any flour, but

got ship biscuits, a good quantity of rice, which, however, has weevils in

it, and a little coffee. Mrs. Repetto came in this evening with some of

the biscuits. I said I could not take them, but she would not hear of

"no."

To-day Glass and Tom Rogers have been putting up some small gates, made by

the latter, at the two entrances of the pathway leading to the front of

the house. They had to build up a part of one entrance with large square

stones; wood is scarce so the gates have to be small. With them we feel

much more private. Henry has given us some green paint of quite a nice

shade for the outside window-frames to match the green gates. The house is

beginning to have quite a respectable appearance.

I fear Mrs. Lavarello will be laid up some time with her leg. Charlotte

Swain bathes it three times a day. Mrs. Lavarello is a sister of John

Glass. She has been very kind to us in constantly sending fish and eggs.

We had a second gale the other day which blighted the potatoes, in fact,

quite cut them down. But the men say that with the rain which has fallen

since they will come on again. The flowers are already reviving.

[Illustration: EARLY MORNING FROM THE WEST, SHOWING SNOW IN CREVASSE, NEAR

PEAK]

Fourteen cattle died last week due to the wet and cold, making the number

of deaths three hundred and seventy.

_Thursday, November_ 8.--We were knocked up yesterday morning soon after

five by Repetto, who came to tell us that a steamer was in sight and that

they were going off to it immediately. In about ten minutes he was here

again for the letters. I was in my dressing-gown finishing a letter to

A----. Graham was finishing another to his sister and had to run down to

the boat with it. He was just in time, but had to wade into the water to

hand it in. The steamer had borne down upon the settlement very rapidly.

Graham so regretted he hadn't gone when he saw how close it had come in.

We felt we had perhaps lost an opportunity of a passage to the Cape we

might not get again, but really there was not time to dress and be off.

Graham worked off his disappointment by polishing away at the boots

and shoes. The men were soon back. The captain said he could only wait

half-an-hour, but stayed an hour. He let them have 300 lbs. of flour and

some other goods. Repetto was able to get some of the things we asked him

to try for, namely, bacon, lemons, a ten-pound tin of butter and some

apple-rings. The captain sent his kind regards and sent me a special

offering of tea and sugar. We have given the tea to the people as they had

none. The steamer was bound for Durban, and the captain, who was here the

year before, said he hoped to return in a month, and if he did would bring

more flour for the people. The islanders had to pay in cash. A passenger

on board presented them with a sovereign to buy food. The captain would

not let us pay for anything. Two and a half years later when we arrived

home in England we heard of another kind deed of the captain. He had

kindly taken charge of the letters to post at Durban, and noticing

one bearing our name most kindly sent to the address copies of some

photographs which he had that morning taken of the island. The fine view

facing this page is one of them. We have been scanning the papers and have

obtained a considerable amount of information from them. The steamer

hailed from a Cumberland port, and in a Maryport paper was a speech of

F----'s at Workington in support of the Liberal candidate. In the same

paper we read with regret of the death of Sir Wilfrid Lawson. In another

was an account of the fires on the Malvern Hills, and in a third a long

article on the "Welcome." [Footnote: A Restaurant and Home for girls,

Jewin Street, London.] The sugar was done up in a Birmingham paper from

which, however, we did not extract much beyond the attempt on the Russian

Premier's life. We feel we have come quite in touch with the world again.

On Monday there is to be another meeting about the trading schooner, but

we doubt if much will come of it. It appears from a book Repetto has that

the Cape duty on imported animals is rather high, and the men do not seem

inclined to come down in their prices. We are seriously contemplating the

future as regards food. We have been taking stock and find our stores are

getting very low. If we knew definitely a gun-boat was coming and would

bring our stores it would be all right, but alas we do not. One cannot get

very much from passing ships, so Graham is rather anxious we should go to

Cape Town to get a supply of food, if for nothing else. I expect it will

end in our going if a chance occurs.

Ellen is busy making a pale blue nun's-veiling blouse for Emma Hagan. You

would hardly have thought there would have been such vanities here. The

material was sent by some relations at the Cape. Every one tries to have a

new garment for Christmas Day, and some of the material which was brought

by the _Surrey_ is being kept for this purpose. I have been making a

pinafore out of a faded muslin blind for Sophy Rogers who is very short of

clothes; after being ironed it looks very nice and has given great

pleasure.

_Friday, November_ 9.--The strawberries are just beginning to ripen; they

are very small and more like wild ones. I have put zinnia seeds straight

into the ground, and shielded with tins they are coming up quite strongly.

The stocks have borne the wind better than any other flower. Marvel of

Peru is coming up strongly too.

_Monday, November_ l2.--We have had such a warm day, which makes us feel

summer is coming.

Yesterday in the midst of morning service one man after another went out,

and shortly I saw two little boats on the sea. A whaler had appeared and

all the men had gone out to her. We were sorry, for it meant trading on a

Sunday, and the people were not now short of food; but one must not be too

hard upon them. The whaler is from America and will probably be here for

two or three days. The islanders like a whaler better than any other

vessel, with the exception of a man-of-war, as it brings material as well

as food to trade with, and is glad of fresh meat and potatoes in exchange.

I can see the ship so clearly, the sun lighting up its white sails.

The meeting about the schooner took place this afternoon. One or two at

the last meeting got rather heated, but all were very quiet to-day. They

were not ready, however, to lower their prices and so nothing was done.

But, later, Henry Green and Repetto came in to say they had been round,

and the men had arranged to sell at a lower price so as to make it

possible for a schooner to come.

The rats are beginning to appear again. Last night we had a constant

tapping overhead; and this morning to her dismay Ellen found our breakfast

had been eaten up by them. The bacon had been placed on the window-sill

outside, a dish over it, and a heavy stone on the top. It was not a great

loss as it was hardly eatable. The milk-jug was also knocked over and the

precious milk spilt. We hope we shall be able to get some extra food from

the whaler; and some cocks and hens!

_Tuesday, November_ l3.--Yesterday shortly after we left morning school

Mrs. Bob Green rushed in to tell us William had seen a seal on the beach,

and that her husband had killed it, but that she had asked him not to skin

it till we had seen it. We went to look and saw a small party on the

rocks. Two seals had been secured, which was quite a find as a good price

can be had for the skins. Seals rarely come in here now, but a dozen or so

may be caught at Inaccessible.

We are having a whole holiday to-day owing to the presence of the whaler.

The men did not board her yesterday as there was a fog, and when it

cleared off and she came in it was too late for them to go out. They went

off this morning. Every one is in the greatest excitement. Dressed in

their best all went down to the beach to meet Betty and Martha's nephew,

Joe Beetham, who was coming on shore from the whaler. He was first brought

in here. Graham had met him at Cape Town; since then he has been to

America, where his home is. He has brought a large box of things for Betty

Cotton from her relatives there, which has quite cheered her up. I think

she is the only one on the island who does not care about living here. The

islanders have gone off again to the ship to make purchases. Beetham told

us the whaler is calling at Mauritius, so Graham has written a line to the

Bishop as he might like to hear how we are getting on.

I have started packing, for we must be ready to be off at any instant;

even at five o'clock in the morning!

_Sunday, November_ l8.--The men did not get back from the whaler till

nearly midnight. The captain seemed a somewhat difficult man to deal with

and undoubtedly got the best of the bargaining. His wife was on board, and

most kindly sent us a parcel of jams and soap.

Mrs. Sam Swain, senior, has a little girl, born last Friday. Her eldest

girl Charlotte is twenty-two. This birth makes the population

seventy-eight.

To-day a ship was to be seen in the far distance, it has been hanging

about; four of the men have gone out to it.

Graham spoke this morning to the people in church about Sunday trading. He

said he saw no harm in going out to a ship on a Sunday, but that they

ought not to trade on that day unless they were in real need. Mr. Dodgson

was very strong on this point.

We are ready packed so far as we can be when our boxes are our

chests-of-drawers. I think Ellen will manage all right while we are away.

She likes the people, and if she feels lonely can have one of the children

to stay with her. She will teach a little.

We have been thinking a good deal the last day or two of this time last

year when we were starting forth. It is a year to-day since we left

Southampton.

_Tuesday, November_ 20.--On Monday morning four of the men put out to a

ship going east, but she had got too far for them to reach her, a squall

driving her further out. It is curious to think that any day we may be on

our way to the Cape, but perhaps we shall not get there at all.

A meeting was held last Thursday to consider the quantity of food-stuff a

schooner should bring in exchange. It will be a great boon to the people

if we can get one to come. We think they would do much better if they

would go in more for sheep-breeding and keep fewer cattle. The return

would be much quicker; and the shipping of them much easier; and as the

weather here is uncertain the loading is an important matter. The sheep

are small, but the mutton is good. I do not think this place is suited for

cattle; it is too exposed; and the people lay themselves out so little to

provide either shelter or food for them. It is quite nice to see a few

cattle again grazing on the settlement which has been so destitute of

them.

Potatoes are now coming in, but the people do not like to begin eating

them too soon.

_Wednesday, November_ 21.--Graham has had an afternoon of it. First there

was a Confirmation Class, then another meeting about the schooner. The

food-list had to be revised and a list made of the requirements of each

family. Arrangements were also made as to our getting off from here. If a

steamer is sighted we are both to go at once; if a sailing vessel, which

will be much less likely to be going to South Africa, Graham will go off

with the men in the first boat. A second boat will await the signal from

the ship as to whether or no we can be taken. If we can I shall at once

embark in it with the rest of the men. Lots were drawn as to who should go

in the first boat. Of course, they like to be in the first as they then

have a greater chance of bargains.

In order to prevent delay in going out to a ship there is an excellent

system by which each family in turn has to provide the oxen, sheep and

geese needed for the public trading. The stuff in exchange for these is

divided round equally. The rule is for this public trading to be done

first. After it is over any who like can do private trading. They offer

for barter all sorts of things, sometimes even the moccasins which they

are actually wearing. William got a coat for his pair the other day; on

another occasion, boy-like, he got a big pair of boots which he is most

proud of, but which are of very little use to him. The height of ambition

is to own a pair of boots, though the feet look much tidier in moccasins.

His grandmother has just asked me to buy her a pair at the Cape.

Graham has been writing a letter to the Bishop telling of our contemplated

visit to the Cape. He will leave a copy of it here on the possible chance

of the Bishop arriving when we are away. If he should arrive there are

various things of which he may wish to have accurate information.

To do the rats justice let me here record it is now thought that a cat was

the culprit on the occasion of the breakfast having disappeared.

CHAPTER XV

_Thursday, November_ 22.--To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on the

wall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires and

flew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slipped

through my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into the

garden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to go

up to him, and I caught him once more quite easily.

I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people.

_Thursday, November_ 29.--Should we go to the Cape it has been arranged

for the elder girls to carry on the school. They are rather pleased at the

idea. To get their hand in, Graham let them take it yesterday and again

to-day. They are capable of taking it for a limited time.

The men and boys have been playing cricket lately, the latter being very

keen upon it.

High winds have again somewhat damaged the plants.

_Friday, November_ 30, _St. Andrew's Day_.--It being the day of

Intercession for Missions we had service at five o'clock. Sixty-one people

were present, which was good for a week-day. Earlier in the afternoon the

sewing-class met. When possible we have it out of doors. We are reading

_Teddy's Button_, which the children quite enjoy. They enter into reading

aloud so much more than they did.

_Monday, December 3_.--Yesterday afternoon Sam Swain's baby was christened

and named Rachel Caroline. The baptism was earlier than it would have been

because the parents were anxious she should be baptized before we leave

for the Cape. The church was full. Graham has asked Repetto to read the

service on Sunday while we are away. Ellen will play the hymns.

This evening a vessel was sighted. As the men think it is a whaler they

are not going out to it till to-morrow.

_Wednesday, December_ 5.--The vessel was a whaler, and the men went off at

breakfast-time next morning and were away all day. For three sheep and

eight geese they only got a barrel of flour and some molasses. The captain

evidently knew how to drive a bargain; it is rather too bad.

The flower garden is beginning to look quite bright. The sweet peas will

soon be in flower, the stocks, too, are showing buds. This week we expect

to pick a dish of peas, though the plants look very poor after the blight

they had.

There has been a rearrangement of the classes in school and some of the

infants have gone up. The elder girls now help a little in the teaching.

This morning I had to speak to one of them. She had been taking the

infants in reading, and sat with cane in hand administering justice right

and left, to which her scholars paid but little heed.

_Thursday, December_ 6.--Yesterday, it being the Advent season, there was

a short service after the confirmation class. The people sing "Lo, He

comes with clouds descending" to the tune in the _Hymnal Companion_ so

heartily. Coming out from the service we found the men gazing intently

towards the west. They saw what they said was a whaler; we could just see

something. It seems to be coming in, so they will not go out to it till

to-morrow. Whalers are no good as regards taking letters, because it may

be so long before they make a port.

_Friday, December_ 7.--The whaler came in on Thursday and the men started

out to meet her, but finding that she was sending a boat ashore, returned.

In the boat was the harpooner, a brother of Sam Swain, senior. The

brothers had not met for twenty-four years. He and the boat's crew spent

part of the day here. It has been a great thing for the people to have had

these three whalers as they have been able to get provisions and material.

I must say our friends are a most liberal people. To-day just after dinner

Henry Green brought us a bag of flour from _All Hands_. Graham did not

want to take it, and being pressed, offered to pay for it, but Henry would

not hear of that, and after some argument said with decision he would not

take it back and plumped it down on the sofa. They think now there will be

a very good potato crop both in quality and quantity, so we cannot want.

The potatoes last year were small owing to the blight.

_Saturday, December_ 8,--The Henry Greens have a child nearly two years

old that can neither walk nor talk, and is very fat. They said they

thought his back was weak, so I suggested they should bathe it with

sea-water twice a day. For some time they did not try this, but last week

began it, and after two or three days to their surprise, and to mine when

I was told of it, he stood up. The mother is most thankful and only wishes

she had begun it before.

_Friday, December_ l4.--There was great excitement yesterday afternoon.

Word was brought in that there had been a shipwreck and that two boats

were making for the island. We all ran out expecting to see a shipwrecked

crew, but no boats were to be seen. We made then for Hottentot Point, and

there we could see a ship in the distance. One of out boats had already

started, but returned before it had gone far. Later the same enterprising

crew, Tom Rogers, Henry Green, and young Sam Swain, set forth again with

things for barter. We only knew at the last minute they were going. Ellen

and I ran to the top of the cliff with our letter, but the boat had

started. We heard afterwards they would have come back had they known we

had letters. It is more than a month since we dispatched our last batch.

The boat did not return till this morning. It got back to the belt of

seaweed before daylight, and making fast to it waited for the dawn. The

crew said the captain, a Scotchman, was so kind and let them have anything

they wanted. He had his wife and little boy on board; she had been ill.

The ship was becalmed, and we hoped the other islanders would go out to

her, but they didn't seem inclined to do so. Later in the afternoon we

heard to our surprise that they were going. We were so glad because of the

letters. The captain sent us a whole heap of magazines and papers. We sent

some young lettuces, and I only regretted we had not some flowers to send

to his wife. The men did not return till the early hours of the morning.

The captain sent us a bottle of lime-juice and would not take any payment

for the groceries Repetto asked for. We feel much the invariable kindness

of all the captains. The first boat's crew enjoyed themselves immensely on

board. The captain played and sang to them. To add to his kindness he sent

us a letter containing all the latest news; the first item of which was

"King Teddy going strong."

Repetto has just been in to bring some white paint and oil he got for us

from the ship. We want it for the house, which certainly has not seen

fresh paint for many a year.

_Saturday, December_ 15.--A ship was sighted to-day in the far distance.

_Sunday, December_ 16.--Rebekah is most good in bringing us bunches of

pink roses. We have also on the table a bouquet of field-daisies which we

were so pleased to find growing here. There are scarcely any wild flowers,

but there is a yellow one which much resembles a hollyhock. The people

think it very poisonous and never picked it. There is also a small plant

which grows abundantly near this house and which they call a sunflower. It

has a leaf resembling that of the woodsorrel, and a pink flower the shape

of a primrose, but with smaller petals. The boys are very fond of adorning

their caps on Sunday with a bunch of pink roses, which are not exactly

becoming to their brown complexions.

_Monday, December_ 17.--In heavy rain and a misty sea a ship passed close

by.

_Thursday, December_ 20.--To-day Rebekah ran in in great distress: "Her

brother Ben had had a fit and had not yet come to, would we go to him?"

We went off at once. When we got there he was still unconscious and was

lying on the couch. The men were doing all they could for him. There was

not much that could be done beyond loosening his collar. After a time he

went to sleep. Every one kept flocking in, even the children. I told them

he ought to be kept quiet, and gradually they went until Ellen, I, and

Bill Green were the only ones left. Presently he awoke and insisted upon

getting up, and seeing he was fairly himself we left. Afterwards he had

two more fits, one of them on the shore where he had insisted upon going;

fortunately Bill Green had followed him there. Two of the men will sit up

with him through the night. The people are very kind to one another in

sickness.

The keeping of meat is a great difficulty in the summer. We have a supply

for the week and it will not keep beyond a day or two. We asked to have it

twice a week, but that could not be arranged. We mean to try salting a

portion. Our meat larder is the passage as being the most airy place.

_Sunday, December 23_.--Ben is all right again. It is thought he overdid

himself driving sheep. He had no dog with him and did a good deal of

shouting and running. He is the man who has deformed arms. Happily he is

of a cheerful disposition and is to be heard constantly whistling tunes.

The only work he can do is to drive the oxen and sheep.

It is difficult to feel we are so near Christmas since we have so few

preparations to make for it. But it is not so with the people. They have

been preparing for it for months. We have had constant requests for "blue"

for getting up white shirts, petticoats and children's clothes.

Preparations are also now going on in prospect of a visit from a

man-of-war; houses are being whitewashed, painted, and scrubbed.

The Repettos finished theirs some time ago, and the large sitting-room is

not allowed to be used, that it may be kept quite clean for the "great

event," should it come off. The minds of the inhabitants are centred on

the arrival of a warship; it is the great event in their lives, and they

cannot yet believe one is not coming.

_Christmas Eve_.--This has been a busy day, almost as busy at it is at

home, there has been so much coming and going. Many have brought offerings

of fish and fruit-pies, and Rebekah as a birthday offering a nicely baked

cake. I had a blouse ready for her. She stayed to supper. We have been

able to give a little tea and sugar all round. I patched up an old coat

for William, and as a last thing watered the garden. The nasturtiums,

which I hope will run up the wall of the house, are just beginning to

bloom. The sitting-room looks quite gay with daisies, grasses and pink

roses.

CHAPTER XVI

_Christmas Day_.--We have had three services, and all have been well

attended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was done

delightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green being

hung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning,

the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said she

was up at 4.30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffed

sucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pudding.

The rain came down in torrents in the afternoon, and we began service with

hardly any one present; but the rain abating the church gradually filled.

The singing was not good; I drew my conclusions.

This evening there has been dancing at the Hagans'. Graham has been

in and is surprised how well the people dance. The men danced in their

shirt-sleeves. Husbands and wives first led off, then danced with other

partners. The refreshment was cold water.

_Thursday, December_ 27.--Yesterday directly after breakfast Repetto came

to paint the sitting-room. The painting took all day, but the room is

quite transformed. The south wall which was green from damp has been

whitewashed, and now it is of an olive-green shade and looks quite

artistic in contrast with the white paint, but I am afraid that hue will

not long remain.

We are having a ten days' holiday. It rains almost every day, and

everything is reeking with damp. The people devote themselves to

festivities at this season, playing cricket in the morning and dancing in

the afternoon and evening. On Boxing Day the first hour of the afternoon

was given up to the children, who love dancing. About an hour later the

elders began. I dressed in my best array and went to look on. They dance

exceedingly well, round and backwards and forwards. I was struck by the

polite manners of the men, who go up to the partner they wish to dance

with, bow to her and offer their arm. The partner takes it most solemnly,

waits about half a minute before she accepts, apparently quite unconscious

of his presence, during which time his arm is dropped as he stands mute

before her; then she quietly rises and the dance begins. The behaviour of

the girls is quiet and natural with a becoming self-reserve. We were home

again before six. I believe the dancers left soon after to get some food

at home, and then returned and went on till eleven o'clock. We looked in

again, and, seeing that the room was very poorly lighted, went back for

our lamp. Some of the babies were put to bed in the adjoining room,

and some were sleeping peacefully in the arms of the elders in the

dancing-room.

_Friday, December 28_.--We are having a very wet week. I have been

painting the bedroom and kitchen window-frames. One of our little birds

died suddenly yesterday evening: we think perhaps the paint was too much

for it. Happily the other one seems quite cheerful without it. As there is

still a smell of paint we take his cage up to the church and hang it in

the vestry as the only place of safety we can think of.

_New Year's Eve_.--In looking back over this past year we feel very

thankful for the way in which we have been helped and guided.

_New Year's Day, 1907.--It is the custom here on New Year's Eve for the

men to assemble soon after nightfall and visit each house. Several are

fantastically dressed and equipped with every available instrument--

violin, drum, concertina and accordion. And on this occasion even three

old Martinis were brought into requisition and fired at frequent intervals

throughout the night. Refreshment is given at each house, so we had a good

brew of tea and biscuits ready for distribution at the first sound of the

drum. Usually the men enter the house, but as it would have been

impossible to get them all into ours, they grouped themselves round the

back door. There they first sang and danced to the accompaniment of the

violin and accordion, made passes with mock swords and let off guns; then

sat on the stones and enjoyed their tea. I was awakened two or three times

in the night by the guns. It was daylight before they finished.

No less than four dinners were sent us today, three plates of stuffed

mutton and one of sucking-pig. Our thyme and parsley had been much sought

after for the stuffing.

We had service this morning at nine o'clock, at which about forty were

present. One of the three hymns was the old favourite--

"O God, our help in ages past,

Our hope for years to come."

All the afternoon Graham was on the roof of the house mending a hole which

was big enough to thrust his hand through. I watched him staggering up the

ladder with a heavy roll of turf roped on to his back. When next I saw him

he was sprawling on the ridge, his legs only visible. He nailed a piece of

tin over the hole, cemented it, and put the turf over it. The cement is

made of the ashes of the wood fire mixed with water; it is very durable,

and stands heat and wet. Repetto has been painting the church. His wife

came in to pay us a visit, a rather rare thing. She goes her own way. The

other women live a good deal in each other's houses, but she does not

believe in this, thinking there is plenty to be done at home. Her strong

character comes out in dealing with her children. She is a very strict

disciplinarian. If they do not do what she tells them, they get a good

"hammering." She was very pleased with what Graham said in church on

Sunday to the children about promptness in obeying.

_Wednesday, January 2_.--To-day we thought of going to the potato patches,

but the men were playing cricket, and sent to ask Graham to join them,

which he did. Afterwards he had his first bathe with them. Their

bathing-place is close to the waterfall. It is not possible to go out far

owing to sharks.

_Thursday, January 3_.--Graham and I started off this afternoon for the

potato patches, as the people were anxious that we should see the plants

in flower. It was not quite such an exertion as we expected. This time of

year the plants are often covered with caterpillars, which have to be

picked off. If the people would burn the old plants and the weeds each

season this pest would be greatly diminished. Unfortunately there are no

birds to prey upon the insects.

_Monday, January 7_.--The next day we went up what is called "Bugsby

Hole," a steep mountain slope. It took us a long time to climb, for we did

it bit by bit, constantly sitting down. At last we came to what one might

perhaps call a pass (it was but a gap) over a narrow-backed ridge. This

was the Goat Ridge which Graham had climbed from the other side on Good

Friday. We had rather a difficult rock to climb up, but with assistance I

managed it. Rob got frightened, and had many leaps before he got up. From

this ridge such a lovely scene opened out in the evening light, lofty

peaks all around, and below, grassy, fern-covered ravines. It made one

almost giddy to look down. The descent appeared appalling, but the ferns

were long, and we could get a good foothold in them. As we neared the

bottom we picked up a quantity of wood. Some of it rolled into a gulch,

and in going after it Graham got "blocked" and had to let himself slide,

with the result that he rather hurt his leg. We got home just before dusk,

had a supper of bread and milk and coffee, and retired to bed as soon as I

had prepared the sponge for baking.

[Illustration: BUGSBY HOLE]

We have started school again after a fortnight's holiday. It is a hot,

close day, about the hottest we have had; one comfort is the houses are

cool. It is such a pleasure to see the cattle looking so different, really

beginning to be in good condition. Their number having been so greatly

reduced, there is plenty of grass for them. We have abundance of milk now,

but butter is a rare commodity. Some was brought us to-day, and is quite a

treat.

_Wednesday, January_ 9.--This day last year we landed at Cape Town.

Yesterday evening we watched the yoking of some oxen which were driven

into the yard opposite. Several were being broken in for the first time,

and others had not been yoked for many months. One was quite wild, jumping

over the wall into the tussock-garden. The two oxen, or steers, to be

yoked together are driven into a corner, and the owner of them warily

approaches and first puts on the neck of one the wooden collar. Having

done this, he waits a minute or two, and then a man behind hands him the

heavy cross-beam, one end of which has to be made fast to the collar. This

being done, he goes through the same process with the other ox. The affair

is no easy one, for any minute the ox may bolt, perhaps with the yoke

dangling down over its forelegs. When they are at last ready, their heads

are turned towards the entrance, for which they generally make a dash to

get out on to the common. Now comes a race. The owner has hold of one of

the horns and hangs on, running at topmost speed, till the oxen are out of

breath and go more soberly. Some of the animals take the yoking very

quietly. They are left yoked for several days; it seems rather hard upon

them, but, of course, they have to be broken in.

_Friday, January_ 11.--We are going to keep fowls. I intended to buy some,

and spoke to one or two people, but they quite scorned the idea of

selling--they would give them. About half-a-dozen have already been

promised. Tom Rogers started on the fowl-house to-day. It is to be a

wooden one made out of our packing-cases and thatched with tussock.

_Wednesday, January_ 16.--Repetto has been here since Saturday putting up

a three-cornered cupboard in the sitting-room. We need it to keep daily

stores in. We tried keeping them in the loft, but to run up a ladder every

time you want tea, sugar or biscuits is rather tiresome, and the kitchen

is too damp for stores.

We have been rearranging the sitting-room. The Indian rugs have come in

most usefully; one does as a tablecloth, and the other as a cover for

boxes, making a table in the part of the sitting-room we have screened

off. They give such a cheerful look to the room. Two or three of the young

girls come in every evening of their own accord to help Ellen to wash up.

The boys often help in the garden. Ned and little Charlie were helping

this evening to shake the earth out of sods of grass. They were so comical

over it, tumbling down and bursting into such merry peals of laughter. It

reminded me of scenes in _Uncle Tom's Cabin_.

_Monday, January_ 2l.--We are having such peaceful days, hardly any wind,

and hours of sunshine.

The fowl-house is finished, and this morning I had several gifts of hens

to put into it. While we were at breakfast one small child of five, Lizzie

Rogers, brought as her birthday gift a hen in a bag. One hen laid an egg

an hour after its arrival! The eggs here are very small. I visit the house

many times a day to show it to various visitors.

The garden is looking so bright; the zinnias have done splendidly, and

some are over two feet high. Our vegetable garden now produces cabbages,

turnips, and a few peas. Carrots are coming on, and the tomato plants are

in blossom and look most flourishing. The ground is quite warm six or

seven inches down, and is more like a hot-bed.

_Wednesday, January_ 23.--The man-of-war is daily expected; the horizon is

scanned from early dawn to twilight; but after this week the people say

they will have doubts about its coming. For the most part they are without

tea and coffee, and are glad of our tea-leaves.

_Friday, January_ 25.--We opened our last flour tin today; we hope to eke

out the flour for a month by using only half-a-pound a day and mixing with

it a liberal proportion of potatoes.

Yesterday I had my first bathe. We went to a place amongst the rocks where

the sea runs in and deep enough for swimming. Graham has begun bathing

with the boys after school. The beautiful calm weather has gone and the

wind come back again.

_Wednesday, January_ 30.--Charlotte Swain came in to tell us there was a

shark on the shore and to ask if we would like to go and see it; so we

went down. It was a small one, only six feet long. The skin is very rough,

like emery paper, and is used by the people for polishing horns. The flesh

is remarkably white and looks as though it would be good to eat. The liver

when boiled down makes very clear oil for burning in their lamps.

This evening Rebekah brought us a well-baked loaf. We were touched by

this, for flour is scarce now. She said they could do on potatoes better

than we could, though we have not come to that yet. The men have been

fishing and we have more fish than we can possibly eat.

There are other occupants than fowls of the fowl-house. Four big pigs find

it a most comfortable place to retire into. It doesn't matter how often

they are driven out. Whenever a storm comes on in they go again, and then

they have the best of us.

_Saturday, February_ 2.--This morning, though it was wet, such was our

energy we went off for a bathe before breakfast, and found it most

refreshing.

The Glasses have a little son, and now the population, including

ourselves, is seventy-nine.

Late this afternoon there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" and on going out to

look we saw a ship opposite the settlement. It was just a chance whether

the men would be able to reach her. They had no time to catch any sheep,

but took what they could lay hands on. As we sat on the cliff just as they

were starting, Mr. Bob Green suddenly jumped up crying, "Sail, ho!" and on

looking, sure enough we saw a second sail coming up. We hoped the men

would try for the two, but they decided to go for the second only. The

first ship stood in for a time and lowered part of her sail, and then went

on. It is dark, but the boats are not yet back. I do hope the men have

been able to get some tea and coffee.

_Monday, February 4_.--Late on Saturday evening we heard a distant whistle

which we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down to

see them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we had

to wait till we saw a light passing our way. Most of the people were

carrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fine

effect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the shore.

Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the light

possible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in the

darkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling with

water in the surf. The moment it touched the shore the women, boys, and

girls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled up

a steep bank of shingle. The fire was stirred up and in its light the

second boat made a run for the shore. It was a weird scene. The expedition

had been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to the

ship, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything.

Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flour

with a little rice were better than nothing. The ship was bound for Natal,

but the captain would not take any passengers. We are pleased the letters

have gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the ship the

captain called out, "The letters are not stamped." Repetto called back,

"All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are." We can

never stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stamps

they would be of no use because we never know where the letters will be

posted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep his

for the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first.

We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some of

the people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, and

others have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with which

they were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here,

and have much enjoyed reading them.

We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almost

daily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope in

the future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they care

for none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars do

much damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes are

riddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tiny

green caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having no

insect-eating birds here is a great loss.

We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. At

night we have the windows and door of our room, the passage window, and

sometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door to

keep the pigs out.

CHAPTER XVII

_Wednesday, February 6_.--Yesterday when we came back from bathing we

heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point

to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and

go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat

down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the

midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she

would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, but

seeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and was

hauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about ten

miles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descending

precipitously to the shore. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were put

ashore, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left it

some months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wild

as the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders,

and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beach

she went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throw

a lasso over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimming

out to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soon

as we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from the

boats to the shore. The orchards were on the mountain side in a sheltered

place. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had to

have help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us,

was only too pleased to give. We passed a very fine vine; the grapes were

not yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The grass was long

and rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a time

we helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and I

found a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and sat

near the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perched

within a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturb

them. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white,

and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it.

They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked their

beaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way.

Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and then

went back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope.

The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on their

backs. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were all

down. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they are

ripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the children

munch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach,

but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a very

plentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and we

travelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feeling

rather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs.

Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which was

most acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto and

Sophy Rogers, came up with us from the shore and offered to carry our

wraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. They

love to help, and come in two and three times a day now.

_Saturday, February_ 9.--It is difficult to keep count of dates here, the

weeks pass so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping up

suet, Graham repairing boots.

The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some children

went by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With some

difficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, and

brought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and a

good deal of driftwood.

Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, and

shot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can do

to bring up one from the shore slung on her back. Once they nested on the

island, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible.

I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She has

been months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has picked

up one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with better

result. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her it

is like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by the

children. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implant

them in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all.

_Monday, February_ 11.--During Lent we are to have daily service at nine

o'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on the

Holy Communion.

_Friday, February 15_.--The daily services so far are being very well

attended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-known

hymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour.

I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussock

where it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a hen

looking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, and

usually with a successful result.

The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It was

feared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with a

fit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of him

to Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced their

steps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeing

no traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they were

encountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he was

all right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleep

there, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in.

The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky,

Becky, let me out."

Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get off

to the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee,

sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap.

We got a good deal of rice from one of the ships, but bread we had

virtually to do without.

The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. I

brought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnly

clambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful of

tea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back to

his place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my side

without moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He is

fair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart.

_Monday, February_ l8.--This morning we had such a delightful bathe. The

sea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at one

end. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. We

often go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; he

would not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he is

generally here, there, and everywhere.

_Sunday, February_ 24.--John Glass's son and heir was baptized today and

was named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Glass, his

greatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn---

"O Father, Thou who hast created all

In wisest love, we pray,

Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious call

Is entering on life's way;

Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness,

Thine image on his soul impress;

O Father, hear!"

I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here.

_Monday, February_ 25.--I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick them

green, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. I

have hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on the

sitting-room window-sills.

A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being no

such thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of ship

iron, and called a "tussock-hook." The hay, which is deliciously sweet,

was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut any

more of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goes

against the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut and

never used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While I

have been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from the

children who have been helping Ellen.

_Tuesday, February 26_.--As we were out for a walk this afternoon we saw

cart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded with

sacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two children

seated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women and

children the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole.

It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardly

be described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs.

_Saturday, March 2_.--A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one is

running hither and thither.

CHAPTER XVIII

_Monday, March_ 4.--It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts

to write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon

after we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It was

coming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from that

direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen

to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something

was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islanders

started forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As we

were returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flag

on the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We at

once decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, for

there was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the ship, and to our

surprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt sure

the ship was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats were

getting fairly near the shore we went down. A tremendously heavy shower

came on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea had

become rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east;

they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray was

dashing all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the shore. How we

scanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we could

see there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites,

Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green,

who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, as

they are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a stranger

was descried.

The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and I

helped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head to

foot, but happily he was not _hors de combat_. He introduced the stranger

as Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had come

partly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting a

trade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel had

lunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us and

to sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interesting

man with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers,

fishing, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail was

brought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containing

a great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders.

What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it was

difficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few days

almost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, and

has received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments which

may require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discuss

with the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has also

had a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department at

Cape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which is

described as "The Relief Expedition." The Imperial Government has sent the

islanders goods to the value of £100. These include one hundred bags of

flour, groceries, and a large quantity of crockery. The stores which we

ordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwright

of Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for two

years. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guest

came we were able to bake a loaf.

_7:35_.--We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I had

very little mind left.

On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go out

to her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distance

away, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. They

have now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign of

them. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugar

so that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive.

Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from what

the men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so much

rain passes through it washing out all the goodness; also, it is in the

tussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle or

sheep.

_Tuesday, March 5_.--We went down last night to meet the boats. Each

brought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on the

island for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so that

lanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either to

haul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was not

easy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ashore for us a

funny little brown puppy.

About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front door

saying something about the mail at Glass's. Graham went to see what it

was, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormous

budget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up till

nearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning.

This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult except

two was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham told

the people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed the

Government could not promise to do anything further for them, and that

therefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantage

of going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. But

notwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or two

said they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Glass

said she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr.

Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He is

considering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and I

hope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for the

islanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regular

communication. A trade would make them independent of outside help except

perhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably the

Government will think it has done enough for some time to come.

This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903

Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to the

Governor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape,

and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with this

suggestion in January, 1904, H.M.S. _Odin_ arrived at Tristan having on

board Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government to

make the following offer to the islanders:--"Should all the inhabitants

wish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide them

with a free passage, purchase their live stock from them and settle them

within 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land on

rent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They were

also told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be able

to start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town ... and that in

future they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (Blue

Book). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn.

_Wednesday, March_ 6.--Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stopped

the unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concert

at the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as I

have this one, more particularly the orchestral part.

We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings this

afternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail which

is sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fashion--even in the boats. It

has been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house.

Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in the

presence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that any

letters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposed

authority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have come

to be thought nobody's property, and to be appropriated by any one into

whose hands they might fall.

Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the island

and is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted to

talk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongst

other points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and that

food should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land be

railed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won the

men's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes if

all goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, which

will probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town we

could not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr.

Keytel promises to yield.

_Thursday, March 7_.--Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. He

has now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has still

to write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day.

The ship has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business has

been done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her.

The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to open

our packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come to

hand answered first.

_Saturday, March 9_.--Yesterday the men went off to the _Greyhound_--I do

not think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before--and got back

some time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after which

they have only to go once more.

_Later_, 10 p.m.--We have just opened a package which we thought contained

papers, and to our delight have found letters and cards innumerable.

_Monday, March ll_.--The men are bringing in the last load from the

schooner. Latterly the weather has been very favourable.

Mr. Keytel has had a splendid opportunity of getting to know the people,

their needs, and the possibilities of the island. He thinks there may be

an opening not only for sheep-breeding and for the drying of fish, of

which there are great quantities, but also for sealing; and talks of

coming next December and spending a whole year here with the object of

starting the industries. It looks, therefore, as if a future were opening

at last for Tristan.

Mr. and Mrs. Beverley of Cape Town have been so kind. They packed a large

case full of things, such as children's clothes, remnants of material,

puzzles and toys, including a grand doll's house. A case has also been

received from the congregation of Holy Trinity Church, many members of

which have very kindly written.

_Tuesday, March_ 12.--Still busy writing. In addition to my own I have

many letters to write for the islanders to friends in England and

elsewhere who have sent them parcels.

Last evening I went to the cemetery to try to make a sketch of Mr. Macan's

grave for his grandmother. This is the young man who came in the _Pandora_

in 1904 and was drowned, as it is thought, in trying to swim round a bluff

to the west of Burntwood. His body was found the next morning on the

beach, but whether he had fallen off the cliff or had been drowned in

swimming round is uncertain.

[Illustration: THE CRATER LAKE]

[Illustration: ON THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK]

Graham has at last had his heart's desire, namely, to ascend the Peak. He

and Mr. Keytel with five of the islanders started off early this morning.

At seven we could see them on the sky-line of the mountain above the

settlement. They got back about six this evening. I am thankful I did not

go, for they say it was a tremendous climb, and the last part, over a

lava-covered surface, the hardest bit of all. I give a description of the

expedition in his own words--

"Mr. Keytel and I had as guides or companions old Sam Swain, Andrew Swain,

Tom Rogers, Repetto and young Sam Swain. We started at 5.30 a.m. and in an

hour and a half were 2,000 feet up, on the top of what the islanders call

the base of the mountain. With the exception of a mile and a half at the

end the climbing was now done, and the rest of the way little more than

walking up-hill. The first mile from the edge of the base was fairly flat,

but over spongy ground thickly studded with stout ferns which came up

above our knees. Then we got on to a grassy slope, and from that descended

into a gulch, up which we went for about a mile. Getting out of this we

next trudged over grassy slopes on which were growing fine specimens of

the crowberry. This kind of ground lasted to within a mile and a half of

the summit, but the grass became scarcer, and was in patches only. Then

all vegetation ceased, I did not notice even moss, and the ascent became

much steeper, about as steep as from St. Ann's Well to the top of the

Worcestershire Beacon. But the going was much harder because the ground

offered no sure foothold, consisting as it did of loose burnt stones and

earth which let you down one step for every two taken. Our Cape visitor in

the gulch had felt that he could not lift his foot for another step; he

kept on, however, right to the top, and I began to feel the same. Although

in no sense done up, I found this last bit harder work than all the rest

of the way put together. The men felt it too. The end, though, came at

last, and we proudly stood on the rim of the crater. It was soon evident

to us, however, that we were not on the highest point. That was on the

part of the rim opposite to us, and in between was the bottom of the

crater. Lying in this bottom was a small lake, perhaps eighty yards by

sixty. We made our way down to it and half-way round it, and then sat down

to lunch. We found the crater water quite drinkable. After lunch I had a

swim in the lake, whereupon Mr. Keytel promptly brought his camera into

action. He took many other photographs. Then we set our eyes upon that

highest bit of rim and doggedly making for it were soon shouting and

waving our caps on the top. It was now twenty minutes past one. At a

quarter to three we began to return, and were home by twenty-five

minutes past six. The day for the climb and the view was a perfect one."

To-morrow the schooner leaves and with it goes our touch with the outside

world. With what it has left behind we shall have enough to occupy us for

many a day. We have become quite fond of the little brown puppy, which we

have named Jock. It is very teachable, and is immensely interested in the

cattle that pass, barking with great energy at them.

_Wednesday, March_ 13.--Mr. Keytel intended leaving to-day but the

_Greyhound_ has not made its appearance; it is thought it is becalmed. All

the better for our letters. This morning Mr. Keytel photographed a group

of all the islanders, then the women only, and afterwards the men. The

photographs were taken on the common just outside our house.

_Thursday, March_ 14.--Such a large ship is passing and the men, I think,

would go out to it were they not waiting to go out to the schooner, which

is now in front of the settlement.

[Illustration: COMPLETE GROUP OF THE ISLANDERS]

_Tuesday, March_ 19.--The _Greyhound_ after all did not leave last week;

the sea was too rough for the boats to go out. It did not get off till

yesterday, due partly to the caution of the captain who would keep away

from land and partly to the weather. We two sent off about one hundred and

twenty letters. The captain wanted to see Graham to show him how to read a

barometer sent by the Cape Meteorological Commission. I thought I would go

too and take Ellen. We had no sooner put out to sea than we realized it

was going to be much rougher than we anticipated, and, the _Greyhound_

standing out after the cautious manner of her captain, we had some

distance to go. Mr. Keytel was out fishing and was to follow. We all kept

well till we got to the ship. Clambering up the rope ladder we were soon

on board and being greeted by such a kind old captain. He was seventy-four

years old with snow-white hair and had only one eye. Graham soon sank into

a chair and was quite past reading barometers or anything else. He could

just assent to remarks made to him by the captain and that was all. Ellen

was in no better plight and sat on a bench near me, and I cannot say I

felt cheerful, for the schooner, which was empty and had not much ballast,

was rolling considerably. I carried on various conversations and strained

my eyes to see if Mr. Keytel's boat was coming. It was a long wait, and

when at last he did get on board he had gifts to bestow upon the men

before we could get off. How thankful we were when that moment came; even

then there were many adieux to be said. I was thankful to see that Graham

and Ellen were capable of descending the ladder. The wind was rising and

the sea sweeping in from the west. But I felt complete confidence in the

men, they are such good seamen and so thoroughly understand their boats

and what they are capable of. The two boats began to race, and we simply

flew through the water. It was splendid. We soon gained the shore, and it

was with no little satisfaction we saw ourselves at home. Then we retired

to our beds, Graham not to appear again until next day, for he had a

racking headache. After lunch Ellen and I tried to tidy the sitting-room,

which was strewn with packages.

To-day has been entirely taken up with the distribution of goods amongst

the people. The boxes had first to be sorted out; one had no name on, and

one of the crockery cases could not at first be found, having been

addressed differently to the other Government cases. These crockery cases

took some time to unpack. The contents made a grand show laid out in Bob

Green's house. They were--

1 dozen brown earthenware teapots.

5 dozen plates.

5 dozen soup-plates.

Vegetable dishes.

6 dozen cups and saucers.

1 dozen flowered bowls and covers.

2 dozen tumblers.

5 dozen egg-cups.

8 saucepans.

Pails and other useful things; it is a most useful gift.

I must now describe the people's way of dividing these goods, which is

their usual method of distribution. When an equal number of each set had

been given round to every family, and there were some over but not enough

to go round again, they put these with those things of which there were

not enough to go round, such as the teapots, saucepans and pails. Then

they arranged these in seventeen lots on the floor, taking care to make

each lot, as far as was possible, of the same value. The number seventeen

was chosen because there are seventeen families. One man now turned his

back, generally looking out at the door; another standing over the things

pointed with his finger to one of the lots and said "That." The man whose

back was turned called out in answer the name of the woman of a family,

till each family had had a turn. The people stood or sat round. They have

apparently worked this method out for themselves and find it creates less

feeling than any other. This took all the morning.

The afternoon was devoted to the division of material and clothing at the

Repettos' house. There was a goodly supply. A lady at Eastbourne who for

many years has taken a deep interest in the islanders, had sent enough

grey woollen material for all the women to have a jacket. Others sent two

large bales of brown calico, a good quantity of red and grey flannel, and

enough strong blue serge and brown tweed for every man to have a pair of

trousers. There was also sent a great quantity of clothes. This "sharing

out" went on till dusk. Finally a large box of sweets, the gift of Mr.

Keytel, was distributed among the children. When we got home we began to

unpack our own parcels. There are some large packages of papers which take

a long time to sort and divide.

After our unwonted doings we are all feeling rather tired and not capable

of doing much, but still we have begun school, as the children had a

holiday all the time the schooner was here.

This afternoon I went up with some medicine for Mrs. Henry Green, who has

caught a bad chill. As she seems very short of warm clothing I have given

her a jacket and skirt of those sent me.

CHAPTER XIX

_Wednesday, March_ 27.--The Cape Meteorological Commission has sent Graham

the following instruments with a request that he would take regular

observations--

An aneroid barometer.

A Fortin mercurial barometer.

Dry and wet bulb hygrometers.

A maximum thermometer.

A minimum thermometer.

A five-inch rain gauge.

The hygrometers and thermometers are to be kept in a Stevenson's screen.

Whether he will be able to take the readings as often as is suggested is

doubtful, but it will be interesting work.

Some rather amusing letters have been received. One from a high Turkish

official runs thus--

"_Constantinople_,

"21 _Septembre_, 1906.

"MONSIEUR LE GOUVERNEUR,

"Je me permets de vous prier d'avoir l'extrême obligeance de m'indiquer le

nombre total des habitants de Tristan da Cunha avec Dépendances et la

quantité de ceux qui appartiennent à la religion mahométane, avec

l'indication du nombre des Sunites ou Chütes et de leur nationalité

respective.

"Dans l'attente de votre réponse je vous prie, Monsieur le Gouverneur, de

vouloir bien agréer mes salutations distinguées et mes remerciments

anticipées."

There is a very interesting letter from the Dixie professor of

Ecclesiastical History, Cambridge, who asks Graham to collect for him

whelks, limpets, periwinkles, snails, cowries, etc. Here is an extract

from it--

"It is not, however, the shells I care for, but the teeth of the animals

within. I have just one species from Tristan--a small land shell of an

interesting genus (Balea). One species is European, one Japanese, the

third Tristan. Its nearest ally is an enormous Eurasian genus (Clausilia)

of seven hundred species which hardly gets into Africa and does not cross

Behring Strait, though there are thirty more in Peru and one in Porto

Rico. So you see how strangely isolated your Tristan species is. Its

nearest cousins are in Tunis and Abyssinia. I fancy the land shells of

Tristan will _not_ have a Magellanic character like the one Kerguelen

species. Anyhow they are sure to be intensely interesting."

_Good Friday_.--We have had a beautiful day, just like a spring day at

home. We had service at 10.30 which lasted a little over an hour. About

fifty-eight were present. The men are not attending so well now. The two

new arrivals do not come to church, and I think it induces the others to

stay away. We had service again at three o'clock, after which Graham and

I went to inquire after Mrs. H. Green, who has been ailing with

rheumatism. It is an old complaint, and due, it is thought, to exposure on

the mountain years ago. She went up with a party on to the Base; a fog

came on, and she became separated from her companions and wandered

hopelessly about with her dog. The fog was followed by a heavy

thunderstorm with vivid lightning, and she was drenched through. Barefoot

and wet to the bone she lay all night in the ferns with the dog at her

side. Next morning her hands were so swollen with the cold she had no use

in them until the sun came out and warmed them. Her only food was birds'

eggs which she occasionally sucked. She was not found till the next

afternoon, though a search party had been out twice to look for her. She

was in bed for a week, and ever since has been subject every few years to

prolonged rheumatic attacks accompanied by great depression which often

lasts for months. She is a nice-minded woman, very quiet, and grateful for

anything done for her. In this she is unlike many who accept everything as

a matter of course.

The three Repetto girls and Sophy have been weeding the garden, which has

been rather neglected lately. We have planted some trees in it grown from

Eucalyptus seed collected on Table Mountain. I planted it here in pots

which I kept in the dark, and it came up well. About a hundred and sixty

sturdy little trees are the result. In years to come they may be useful

for firewood. In a book on forestry left here by Mr. Tooke, they are said

to be very useful trees to grow for this purpose, as they bear lopping

well.

_Easter Sunday_.--At the Holy Communion to-day there were twenty present;

some coming for the first time, and one or two men coming who had not

communicated since Mr. Dodgson's time. All who had been prepared for

Confirmation were invited except the boys and girls.

I am thinking of starting a Bible class for girls on Sundays. I feel I do

so little for them. We see most of those girls whose ages range from nine

to thirteen.

A thunderstorm has just passed over us; the effects on sea and land were

most beautiful, everything assuming such a vivid colouring as one only

occasionally sees.

_Wednesday, April 3_.--We got up early this morning, as Graham was going

to the Ponds, but Henry Green sent down to say it would be better to put

off going until to-morrow, as it looked like rain. One or two of the girls

are going, so I have decided to go too. I believe it is a stiffish climb.

We spent the afternoon among the cases trying to find one containing

material. Then we unpacked a kettle, which we badly need; we have had

lately to boil our water in a saucepan.

_Friday, April 5_.--Yesterday we again got up early and were ready to

start for the Ponds, when Henry again sent down to say it was going to

rain.

We have two invalids to visit now. The one is Mrs. Henry Green who makes

no progress at all, and seems very miserable. I really think she ought to

be in bed, but she says their bedroom window does not open, and she feels

the heat of the room. The other is Charlotte Swain, who apparently has a

housemaid's knee. It is very painful and much swollen. I have painted it

with iodine, which has reduced the swelling.

A little time ago we happened to say to Tom Rogers how tiring we found

cooking in the sitting-room owing to the fire being on the hearth, which

entailed constant stooping. Two or three days afterwards he came to

measure the fire-place, and that afternoon he and Bob Green fixed two

large stones, raising the fire a good foot. But the men are not always so

ready to help. We wanted them to build on an extra room to our house, as

there is no larder and the kitchen is very small. Our bedroom and the

kitchen share the same window, and when the wind is contrary the smoke

pours into the bedroom. We thought the west-end wall might be taken down

and the room built without very great difficulty. All hands met to-day to

consider this, when most of the men refused to do anything, though some

were quite willing to help. The life here very much conduces to every man

looking out for himself. Graham tried to point out to them how important

it was they should build a church and house if they want a clergyman or

teacher to come here in the future; and that they could not expect Lucy

Green and Betty Cotton to always give up their houses; but they did not

seem inclined to do anything. If a clergyman or teacher came they would

like him to board with one of themselves--an impossible arrangement. They

do not understand the need of a larder, the greater part of them keeping

groceries in the bedroom, sometimes under the bed. We have to keep a large

barrel of flour, our bread and milk in the sitting-room.

_Saturday, April 6_.--The men appeared _en masse_ early this morning to

say they were ready to start upon the house. We thanked them, but under

the circumstances thought it best not to have the work done. They ought

really to build on to their own houses, for some are very short of

bedrooms, and the sitting-room has nearly always to be used as a bedroom

too. They can build if they like, for a few years ago on his marriage Bill

Rogers built a house which looks very well; getting timbers for the roof

is the great difficulty. We hear that Lavarello was very sorry he had

refused his help to build the room and that night paced up and down vexed

with himself for so doing.

_Sunday, April 7_.--This afternoon I started the Girls' Class half-an-hour

before service. As soon as I left the house all seven girls flew round the

corner to join me. For the last hour they had been waiting at Betty

Cotton's just opposite. They are very pleased at having a class. It makes

such a difference teaching children to whom almost everything in the Bible

is new. They listened so attentively. We have begun with Genesis and I do

hope to make the teaching practical. After service we went to the Henry

Greens', who live up the hill in a direct line from here. She is much the

same. Chris is at last beginning to walk, but cannot speak a word. I

believe they fear he is dumb. He understands very well what is said to

him. I never saw a child tumble about more in his attempts to walk, but he

does not seem to mind a bit and can walk backwards as easily as forwards.

_Tuesday, April 9_.--Repetto has been levelling the floor of our bedrooms

preparatory to putting down some green linoleum, which we got to save

labour, as it is so difficult to sweep and keep clean rough boards.

Sailor-like, he slung the beds to a beam of the ceiling, which avoided

taking them to pieces.

_Thursday, April 11_.--I have just finished a serge skirt; it has many

gores in it, and has turned out better than I expected, indeed, it looks

quite tailor-made.

We are having an incursion of rats, and traps are going off at all hours

of the day and night. Most of the rats caught are small and more like

mice. The other day my favourite chicken walked into the sitting-room and

got its head caught in a trap. It extricated itself, but was so stunned it

fell over and could not walk; it has since recovered.

_Monday, April 15_.--As there are holes in the roof it had been arranged

that the back side of the house should be re-thatched, and the men,

fourteen in all, came to-day to do it. We got up soon after five to be

ready for them, and had time to go down for a bathe. They began by cutting

the tussock in the garden. While they were doing that we partly emptied

the loft. By the time we came back from school they were in full swing.

After taking off the old thatch they swept the loft, and a nice time we

had of it below. As soon as possible Ellen buckled to to sweep. When their

work was done they had tea with biscuits and rock cakes. Nine hundred

bundles of tussock were used to thatch the one side of the house. The men

fasten the thatch to the rafters with tarred string using a large iron

needle. Three men work together, one in the loft, one on the roof, and a

third tossing up bundles. We had sent to the Cape for lead to put along

the ridge in the place of turf, and this they have put on. We hope now the

roof will be rain and dust-proof, and the walls less damp.