At length, on the 5th August, the vessel arrived at Fort Vancouver, about

7 o’clock in the evening. The governor, an excellent and truly pious

man, together with his lady, and the most {77} respectable personages

of the place, were assembled on the shore to receive us. As soon as the

ship had cast anchor we landed, and hastened to the fort, where we were

received and treated with all possible cordiality. Here we were obliged

to tarry eight days, for the Rev. Mr. Blanchet, who did not arrive till

the 12th, not having received my letter, informing him of our arrival. No

sooner was he aware of it than he hastened to join us, bringing with him

a considerable number of parishioners. He had travelled the entire night

and day, and we were delighted to meet this indefatigable clergyman.

Though so comfortably situated at the fort, yet we were anxious to arrive

as soon as possible at the place destined us by Divine Providence. The

pious religious likewise sighed after their convent home of Willamette.

Monsieur Blanchet accordingly made the necessary arrangement for our

departure, and we left Fort Vancouver on the 14th.

An affecting adieu awaited us. Our worthy captain stood upon the shore.

The emotion was sensibly felt by each one of us. For eight months we had

shared the same dangers, and so often stood together, gazing in the very

face of death: could we then restrain the parting {78} tear, which seemed

to gush from the fountain of the heart, as we remembered his kindness.

Our little squadron consisted of four canoes, manned by the parishioners

of Mr. Blanchet, and our own sloop. We sailed up the river, and soon

entered the Willamette, whose waters flow into the Columbia.

As night approached we moored our vessels and encamped upon the shore.

There, grouped around the fire, we partook of our evening meal. The

night was calm and serene—all nature was hushed in profound silence—all

invited us to repose; but the swarms of musquetoes with which these woods

abound, prevented our slumber. The religious, to whom we had yielded the

tent, suffered equally with those who had nothing but the star-spangled

canopy of heaven above them. You will not, consequently, be surprised,

that the night appeared somewhat long, and that the morning’s dawn found

us on foot. It was the festival of the glorious Assumption of the Mother

of God, which, in these regions, is usually solemnized on the following

Sunday. Aided by the religious, I erected a small altar. Mr. Blanchet

offered the Holy Sacrifice, at which all communicated.

Finally, the 17th, about 11 o’clock, we came {79} in sight of our

dear mission of Willamette. Mr. Blanchet charged himself with the

transportation of our baggage. A cart was procured to conduct the

religious to their dwelling, which is about five miles from the river. In

two hours we were all assembled in the chapel of Willamette, to adore and

thank our Divine Saviour, by the solemn chanting of the Te Deum, in which

all hearts and lips joined with lively emotion.

Early in the morning of Sunday, the 18th, the day on which the Assumption

is celebrated here, we saw the Canadian cavaliers arriving in crowds

with their wives and children, whom they had brought from great

distances, to assist at the solemn services of the church.

At 9 o’clock all were arranged in perfect order in the church; the men

on one side, the women on the other. The Rev. Mr. Blanchet celebrated

the August Sacrifice, assisted by twenty acolytes. The piety of his

parishioners contributed much to our edification.

On arriving at the mission of St. Paul, of Willamette, we proceeded

at once to the residence of the Very Rev. Mr. Blanchet, who received

us with the greatest kindness, and immediately placed at our disposal

everything on {80} the place. My first care was, to seek some convenient

locality where, according to the plan of our Very Rev. Father General,

a mother mission could be established. For this purpose I made several

unsuccessful excursions into the adjacent country. The most eligible

situations were already occupied. The Methodists, indeed, offered to sell

me their Academy, which is a sufficiently large and handsome house, but

entirely destitute of wood and arable land.[175] In this perplexity Mr.

Blanchet relieved me, by a generous and disinterested offer. He proposed

to examine the property belonging to the mission, and take such portions

of it as I should judge most proper for our projected establishment. We

accordingly set out on this new excursion; but we had scarcely proceeded

two miles when we came to a point uniting every desirable advantage.

Picture to yourself an immense plain extending as far as the eye can

reach; on one side the snowy crests of the gigantic Hood, Jefferson, and

St. Helena (the three highest peaks of Oregon), towering majestically

upwards, and losing themselves in the clouds; on the east a long range

of distant hills, their blue-tinged summits melting, as it were, into

the deep azure of the sky; on the west the {81} limpid waters of two

small lakes, on whose beautiful shores the beaver, the otter, and the

musk-rat, sport in careless security, heedless of our presence. The

elevation on which we were standing, gradually sloping downward, and

forming a charming amphitheatre, extended to the borders of one of the

lakes. I hesitated not a moment in selecting this spot for the mother

mission. The sweet recollections of our first establishment on the

Missouri returned to my mind; and the remembrance of the rapid progress

of the Mission of St. Stanislaus, near St. Ferdinand, whose branches

now extend over the greater part of Missouri, Ohio, Louisiana, reaching

even the Rocky Mountains, and penetrating to the eastern boundary of

America, led me to breathe a fervent prayer, that here, also, might be

formed a station, whence the torch of faith would diffuse its cheering

light among the benighted tribes of this immense Territory. We have

also a fine view of the Willamette River, which, in this place, makes a

sudden bend, continuing its course amidst dense forests, which promise

an almost inexhaustible supply of materials for the construction of

our mission house. In no part of this region have I met with a more

luxuriant growth of pine, fir, elm, {82} oak, buttonball, and yew trees.

The intervening country is beautifully diversified with shadowy groves

and smiling plains, whose rich soil yields abundant harvests, sufficient

for the maintenance of a large establishment. Besides these advantages,

there are a number of springs, on one side of the hill, one of which is

not more than 100 feet from the house, and it will probably be of great

use hereafter.[176] Having now made choice of the locality, we commenced

without delay the erection of the buildings. The first thing to be done

was to clear the ground by cutting away the under-brush and isolated

trees, after which, with the aid of the inhabitants, we constructed three

wooden buildings, covered by a single roof of 90 feet; these were to

serve as workshops for the brother blacksmith, carpenter, etc.

Besides these, a house, 45 by 35 feet, is now under way. It is to be two

stories, and will be the dwelling-house of the missionaries.

We arrived in the Oregon Territory during the prevalence of a disease

(bloody flux) which was considered contagious, though the physicians

attributed it to the unwholesome properties of the river-water. Numbers

of savages fell victims to it, especially among the Tchinouks, {83} and

the Indians of the Cascades, large parties of whom encamped along the

banks of the river, on their way to Vancouver, to obtain the aid of a

physician. Those who could not proceed were abandoned by their friends;

and it was truly painful to see these poor creatures stretched out, and

expiring on the sand. The greater part of our sailors, and three of the

sisters, were attacked by the pestilence; the Rev. Father Accolti also

experienced its terrible effects; for myself, I was obliged to keep

my bed during 15 long days, and to observe a rigorous diet. But the

captain of our vessel was the greatest sufferer. The disease attacked

him so violently, that I seriously fear he will never again return to

the cherished family—the affectionate wife and children of whom he

used daily to speak with so much tenderness. He was a worthy man—an

experienced and skilful navigator; I esteemed him highly, although I

could not forbear blaming him for the little courage he had shown in

repressing the profane language of one of the passengers, who, from the

time of his embarkation until we landed him at Fort Vancouver, had never

ceased to offend our ears by his horrid oaths. The Almighty has denounced

his curse against the blasphemer; {84} and sooner or later it will fall

upon him. Poor “Indefatigable,” I tremble for thy fate.

The winter was rapidly approaching, and, notwithstanding my weak state, I

could not resist my pressing desire to visit, once more, my dear Indians

of the mountains, who, on their side, await my return with the greatest

impatience, as I was informed by the Rev. F. Mengarini, who had come to

meet me.[177] To-day I shall have the happiness to set out for the Rocky

Mountains.

I am, &c.,

_P. J. De Smet_.

P. S.—On the 9th September the good sisters commenced instructing the

women and children, who were preparing for their first communion. As

their house was not yet habitable, they were obliged to give their

instructions in the open air. In three days’ time they had already 19

pupils, from 16 to 60 years of age, all of whom came from a distance,

bringing with them provisions for several days, and sleeping in the

woods, exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather. It is easy to

conceive by this how eager these poor people are for instruction. Each

day the sisters devote six hours to teaching {85} them the usual prayers,

and manner of making the sign of the cross. On one occasion, it was

discovered that a woman had remained two days without food; the dogs had

devoured her little provision, and, lest she should miss the instruction,

she was unwilling to go home for another supply.

24th.—The convent having as yet neither doors nor sashes, owing to the

scarcity of mechanics, some of these good Sisters were seen endeavoring

to handle the plane, others glazing, painting the windows and doors, &c.

They were the more ardently desirous for the completion of their new

habitation, as already thirty Canadian pupils had been offered them; and

thus would they be enabled to procure the means of giving a gratuitous

support and protection to the hapless orphans of the forests. These poor

children, rescued from their destitute condition, and placed under the

benign care of the kind Sisters, would enjoy the blessings of a Christian

education, and become, one day, co-operators in the mission. But, to

effect this, and to realize the cheering hopes it holds forth, funds

must be raised to provide the necessary clothing for the orphans, as

the profits arising from the school will not be more than sufficient to

defray {86} the expenses of their board. I here give you the brilliant

prospectus of their Academy. Per quarter, 100 lbs flour, 25 lbs pork, or

36 of beef, 1 sack of potatoes, 4 lbs hogs’ lard, 3 gallons peas, 3 doz.

eggs, 1 gallon salt, 4 lbs candles, 1 lb tea, 4 lbs rice.

The Sisters took possession of their convent in the month of October; a

few days after, their chapel was solemnly consecrated by the Rev. Mr.

Blanchet; and they have since enjoyed the happiness of assisting every

day at the Holy Sacrifice of the Mass, offered up at their simple altar

by one of the missionaries, stationed at St. Francis Xavier.[178] They

have also twice had the consolation of presenting at the table of the

Lord the little band of fervent neophytes, whom they had prepared with

so much care, for this solemn action. This success, in so short a time,

has induced us to conceive the project of founding another house of this

order in the village of Cuhute.[179] Monsieur Blanchet and Father De

Vos think, that the departure of the Protestant ministers, on account

of their fruitless labors, renders this an auspicious moment for the

establishment of a religious house. The station of Willamette would

furnish occupation sufficient for twelve Sisters, but unfortunately they

are but six in number.

{87} We learn with pleasure that it is the intention of Monseigneur

Blanchet to visit Europe immediately after his consecration, in order

to obtain, if possible, twelve more of these zealous and devoted

religious, for the mission. God grant he may succeed; and that the want

of pecuniary means may not oppose an insurmountable obstacle to the

generous sacrifice, which, we are all well-assured, the pious Sisters of

the Congregation of Notre Dame are disposed to make again in our behalf.

No. III

A. M. D. G.

At the Foot of the Great Glaciere, one of the Upper Sources

of the Athabasca River, May 6th, 1846.

MONSEIGNEUR,—I am late, but not forgetful of my duty and promises, for I

will remember the many obligations I have contracted, and the happy hours

I passed, when travelling in your paternity’s company. I now come to

redeem them, by troubling you with a dozen Rocky Mountain letters,[180]

including a narrative of my last year’s excursions and missions among

several Indian tribes; of what I have seen and heard; and of what

happened, as I was travelling along. I hope my letters may be consoling

to you, and serve as a proof that the work of God is progressing among

the long-benighted children of the Oregon desert, and among the lonely

tribes on the northern waters of the great Mackenzie River. Four priests

from Red River will soon find ample employment in the dreary regions of

the Hudson Bay Territory. How lamentable it is, that the great western

desert alone, extending from the States to the eastern {89} base of the

Rocky Mountains, and south to the Mexican lines, should be lying waste.

This would, indeed, present an extensive field to the zeal of Catholic

missionaries; and, from my personal observations, and those of all the

priests who have passed this desert, their efforts would be crowned with

the greatest success. Indians are, in general, carelessly judged and

little known in the civilized world; people will form their opinions from

what they see among the Indians on the frontiers, where the “fire water,”

and all the degrading vices of the whites have caused the greatest havoc.

The farther one penetrates into the desert the better he finds the

aborigines; and, in general, I found them most willing and anxious to

receive religious instruction, and to hear the good tidings of salvation.

A bishop, and two or three priests, who would make it their business to

visit the different tribes of this vast land, remaining among each of the

tribes a reasonable and sufficient time to instruct the Indians, would

most certainly meet with the most abundant harvest; the scalping-knife

might thus soon be laid aside, and where the Indian war-whoop has for

centuries resounded, might be heard in its stead, {90} the canticles

and praises of the true and only living God. The idea of collecting

and settling these wandering nations, would, in my humble opinion, be

impossible, or, at least, a very slow work. The Indians might be made

good Christians, and still continue, at the same time, to lead a hunter’s

life, as long as buffalo and deer will supply their wants.

Nothing, but the interest I feel for these poor people, and the assurance

I have that they will find a patron and friend in your paternity, make

me bold enough to make an appeal to you in their favor, so that a speedy

remedy may be applied to the existing and most distressing want of this

large district of the United States. Thousands of whites are well cared

for and are straying from the true path—the Indians have likewise souls

to be saved, redeemed by the Saviour’s precious blood, and thousands of

these bereft children are most anxious to enjoy the salutary blessings

with which their white brethren are favored.

I remain, with the greatest esteem and respect, recommending myself at

the same time to your holy sacrifices and prayers.

Your very humble and obedient servant in Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. IV

A. M. D. G.

St. Francis Xavier, Willamette, June 20th, 1845.

RIGHT REV. BISHOP,[181]

SIR,—In the beginning of February, I set out to visit our different

settlements and stations, and to form new ones among the neighboring

tribes of our reductions. The entire surface of this region was then

covered with snow, five feet deep; and I was compelled to go from the Bay

of Pends-d’oreilles to the Horse Plain, in a bark canoe, a distance of

250 miles.[182]

I was among my dear _Flatheads_ and _Pends-d’oreilles_[183] (ear-rings)

of the mountains, during the Paschal time, and had the great consolation

of finding them replete with zeal and fervor in fulfilling the duties of

true children of prayer. The solemn feast of Easter, all the _Flatheads_

at St. Mary’s devoutly approached the most blessed sacrament during my

mass; and about three hundred _Pends-d’oreilles_, (the greater number

adults), belonging to the station of St. Francis {92} Borgia,[184]

presented themselves at the baptismal font. Five chiefs were among the

number; the most distinguished are _Stiettiedloodsho_, or chieftain of

the Tribe Valiant; _Selpisto_, the head chieftain, and _Chalax_, that is

to say the _White Robe_, surnamed the Juggler or great medicine man.[185]

The word _medicine man_, in their language, is synonymous with juggler.

How consoling it is to pour the regenerating waters of baptism on the

furrowed and scarified brows of these desert warriors,—to behold these

children of the plains and forests emerging from that profound ignorance

and superstition in which they have been for so many ages deeply and

darkly enveloped; to see them embrace the faith and all its sacred

practices, with an eagerness, an attention, a zeal, worthy the pristine

Christians.

[Illustration: Interior of St. Mary’s Church, Flat-head Mission:

Communion at Easter

(See Letter 4th)]

Were I to give you the history of these chiefs, I should greatly exceed

the limits I have proposed. Suffice it to say, that these heroes of

the Rocky Mountains have been for years the terror of their enemies.

Chalax had acquired great celebrity _as a juggler_, and in predicting

future events; if we may credit the _Kalispels_ and the whites who have

travelled in company with him, these prophecies have been verified.

{93} He indicated the day, the place, and the number of _Blackfeet_

who would attack their camp. Having interrogated him relative to this

affair, he, with great simplicity and candor, replied: “I am called

the Great Doctor, yet, never have I given myself up to the practices

of juggling, nor condescended to exercise its deceptions. I derive all

my strength from prayer; when in a hostile country, I address myself to

the Master of life, and offer Him my heart and soul, entreating him to

protect us against our enemies. A voice had already warned me of coming

danger; I then recommend prudence and vigilance throughout the camp;

for the monitory voice has never deceived me. I have now a favor to

request: the mysterious voice calls me by the name of _Chalax_, and, if

you will permit, I desire to bear that name until my death.” I willingly

consented, and then explained to him the ceremony of the _White Garment_

he was about to receive, in the holy sacrament of baptism. To the name of

_Chalax_ I affixed that of the Prince of the Apostles. This is the same

chief, who on my first visit to the mountains, aided by only sixty men,

sustained during five days, an obstinate struggle against 200 lodges of

_Blackfeet_, whom he put to flight, {94} leaving on the ground eighty

men, whilst among the _Flatheads_ only one man was wounded. He died three

months after.

With regret I parted from these good Indians, and my beloved brothers in

Jesus Christ, the Rev. Fathers Mengarini, Zerbinati, and four coadjutor

brothers; who are laboring with indefatigable zeal in this portion of our

Lord’s vineyard.

As the snow was fast disappearing, the Kalispels of the bay were awaiting

my arrival. I re-entered my fragile canoe, guided by two Indians, and

made all possible haste to descend Clarke’s River. You may judge of its

impetuosity when I inform you, that we were sixteen days ascending the

river, and but four in descending the same. On returning to the bay,

accompanied by Rev. Father Hocken and several chiefs, my first care

was to examine the lands belonging to this portion of the Tribe of

Kalispels, and select a fit site for erecting the new establishment of

St. Ignatius.[186] We found a vast and beautiful prairie, three miles in

extent, surrounded by cedar and pine, in the neighborhood of the cavern

of New Manrese,[187] and its quarries, and a fall of water more than two

hundred feet, presenting every advantage {95} for the erection of mills.

I felled the first tree, and after having taken all necessary measures

to expedite the work, I departed for Walla Walla, where I embarked in

a small boat and descended the Columbia, as far as Fort Vancouver.

The melting of the snow had occasioned a considerable freshet, and

our descent was very rapid. The place was indicated to me where a few

months previously, four travellers from the United States had miserably

perished, victims of their own temerity and presumption. When advised to

provide themselves with a guide, they answered they had no need of any;

and when warned that the river was dangerous and deceptive, the pilot,

with a scoffing boast, replied, “I am capable of guiding my barge, were

it even across the infernal gulf.” The monitor wished them a fortunate

voyage, but at the same time trembled for their fate, saying: “This pilot

is not a native Indian, he is not an Iroquois, nor even a Canadian.” The

turbulent stream soon engulfed its presumptuous and daring victims. They

steered out into the midst of the river, and in an instant the canoe was

borne along with the rapidity of lightning, leaving in its train a thick

foam, caused by the violent plying of oars. Approaching the rapids, {96}

they fearlessly hurried onward—alas, their fate was soon to be decided.

Drawn by the eddy into the centre of a whirlpool, vainly they struggled

to extricate themselves—they beheld the dread abyss yawning to receive

its prey! Yet, an instant, the ill-fated barge twirled upon the surface,

and then sank, amidst the despairing shrieks of the helpless crew,

which the roaring waves rendered the more appalling, whilst the dismal

sounds re-echoing from shore to shore, proclaimed the new disaster of

the “Columbia.” Soon the waters resumed their wonted course, and left

no trace of the sad catastrophe. This fatal spot might appropriately

be designated, Presumptive’s Rapids; doubtless, it will be a lesson

to future boasters, not to venture, without pilot or guide, upon this

formidable tributary of the western ocean.

After a prosperous voyage of five days, I debarked at Vancouver, where

I had the happiness of meeting Father Nobili, who, during eight months,

had applied himself to study the Indian language, while he exercised his

sacred ministry among the Catholics of the fort and the Indians of the

neighborhood. More than a tenth of the latter had been swept off by a

mortal disease; happily, they all had the consolation {97} of receiving

baptism before they expired.

Father Nobili accompanied me in a Tchinouk canoe, up the beautiful

River of Multonomah or Willamette, a distance of about sixty miles, as

far as the village of Champois,[188] three miles from our residence of

St. Francis Xavier. On our arrival all the fathers came to meet us,

and great was our delight in being again reunited after a long winter

season. The Italian fathers had applied themselves chiefly to the study

of languages. Father Ravalli, being skilled in medicine, rendered

considerable services to the inhabitants of St. Paul’s Mission; for every

dwelling contained several sick. Father Vercruysse, at the request of

Right Rev. Bishop Blanchet, opened a mission among the Canadians who were

distant from St. Paul’s, and he succeeded in causing them to contribute

to the erection of a new church, in a central location. Father De Vos is

the only one of our fathers of Willamette who speaks English. He devotes

his whole attention to the Americans, whose number already exceeds 4,000.

There are several Catholic families, and our dissenting brethren seem

well disposed; many among them are eager to be instructed in the Catholic

faith.

{98} Nowhere does religion make greater progress, or present brighter

prospects for the future, than in Oregon Territory. The Very Rev. Mr.

Demers, Vicar General and Administrator of the diocess in the absence

of the bishop, is preparing to build a brick cathedral. There is now

being built, under his superintendence, a fine church at the Falls of

Willamette, where, three years ago, was commenced the first town of

Oregon.[189] This rising village numbers more than 100 houses. Several

lots have been selected for a convent and two schools. A Catholic church

has been erected at Vancouver.

The Convent of the Sisters of Notre Dame is fast progressing, and it

will be the finest building of Willamette. The church is eighty feet

long, and proportionably wide; it is under the invocation of the Blessed

Virgin. The religious have already fifty boarders. The Bishop’s College,

under the management of the Very Rev. Mr. Bolduc, is very prosperous. The

number of pupils has augmented; forty young men, chiefly _Metis_, are

receiving a Christian education. Some years ago, a church was erected at

Cowlitz, and the inhabitants are now preparing to construct a convent

under the direction of Rev. Mr. Langlois.

{99} Our residence of St. Francis Xavier is completed; it will hereafter

serve for a novitiate and seminary, to prepare young men for the missions.

Measures, which I trust will be realized, have been taken by our fathers

for visiting, during this year, the numerous tribes inhabiting the

Pacific coast north and south of the Columbia; where, already, the visits

of the bishop and his grand vicar have been so productive of favorable

results. The 17th Feb., 1842, Bishop Blanchet thus wrote to the Bishop of

Quebec: “God has deigned to bless our labors, and to fructify the divine

word. The adorable name of Jesus has been announced to new nations of the

north. Mr. Demers bent his steps to Fort Langley on Frazer’s River, in

which place he administered baptism to upwards of 700 children. Many of

them already enjoy the precious fruits of regenerating grace.”

In my preceding letters, I gave you the details of our missions among

the mountains of the higher Oregon; of the conversion of two tribes,

the _Flatheads_ and the _Cœurs-d’Alène_ or _Pointed Hearts_; of the

first communion of the latter, and conversion of several _Kalispels_

of the Bay, on the solemn festival of Christmas. From {100} 1839,

when the mission was established, to July, 1845, the reverend Canadian

missionaries baptized 3,000 persons. The number of Catholics residing at

the different stations of the Hon. Hudson Bay Co. in Oregon, together

with the colonists of the same nation, amounts to several hundreds.

By adding to these 2857 baptized since 1841 in the different mountain

missions, it gives us a total of more than 6,000 Catholics in Oregon. The

diminutive grain of mustard is fast extending far and wide its branches,

over this once sterile and neglected region. In the month of June, Father

Nobili, accompanied by a brother novice, left Willamette to visit the

tribes of New Caledonia. The Very Rev. Mr. Demers saw the following named

tribes: _Kameloups_, the _Atnans_ or _Shouwapemot_, the _Porteurs_ or

_Ltavten_, which names vary according to the different places where the

tents are pitched.[190] They affix the word ten which signifies people,

i. e., _Stelaoten_, _Nashkoten_, _Tchilkoten_, _Nazeteoten_.[191] Rev.

Mr. Demers had the consolation of baptizing 436 children among these

tribes.

Such has since been the fervor and zeal of these poor Indians; who,

though deprived of a priest, have built three churches, hoping that a

{101} nepapayattok, or father would settle among them.

Many Catholics reside in the different forts of this country. The

honorable gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Co., although Protestants, were

strongly interested in favor of these savages, and did all in their power

to facilitate the introduction of a clergyman into this portion of their

jurisdiction.

I have the honor to be, with the most profound respect and esteem,

Monseigneur, your most humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ.

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. V

A. M. D. G.

Kalispel Bay, Aug. 7th, 1845.

MONSEIGNEUR,—A few days after the departure of Father Nobili, who

obtained a place in a barge belonging to the Hon. Hudson Bay Co., I

started from St. Francis Xavier’s with eleven horses laden with ploughs,

spades, pickaxes, scythes, and carpenters’ implements. My companions

were the good Brother McGill,[192] and two metis or mongrels. We

encountered many obstacles and difficulties among the mountains, owing

to the cascades formed by the water, which, at this season, descends

on every side in torrents, and with irresistible fury upon the rocks,

over which we were compelled to cross. In the narrow valleys between

these mountains, the rhododendron displays all its strength and beauty;

it rises to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. Entire groves are

formed by thousands of these shrubs, whose clustering branches entwine

themselves in beautiful green {103} arches, adorned with innumerable

bouquets of splendid flowers, varying their hues from the pure white, to

the deepened tint of the crimsoned rose.

Our path was strewed with the whitened bones of horses and oxen,

melancholy testimonies of the miseries endured by other travellers

through these regions. We passed the foot of Mt. Hood, the most elevated

of this stupendous chain. It is covered with snow, and rises 16,000

feet above the level of the sea.[193] Capt. Wyeth, on beholding this

ridge from the summit of the Blue Mountains, thus speaks of it in his

journal:—“The traveller on advancing westerly, even at the distance of

160 miles, beholds the peaks of the Cascade Mountains. Several of them

rise 16,000 feet above the level of the sea. Every other natural wonder

seems to dwindle, as it were, into insignificance when compared to

this.”[194] From one single spot I contemplated seven of these majestic

summits extending from north to south, whose dazzling white and conic

form resemble a sugar loaf.

We were twenty days going from Willamette to Walla Walla, across desert

and undulating lands, abounding in absinthium or wormwood, cactus, tufted

grass, and several species of such {104} plants and herbs as are chiefly

found in a sterile and sandy soil.

Game is scarce in these latitudes; however, we found large partridges

and pheasants, aquatic fowls, small birds of various kinds, hares and

rabbits. Salamanders swarm in sandy places, and armadilloes are not

rare in the vicinity of the great Dalles. Fort Walla Walla is situated

in latitude 46° 2′, and longitude 119° 30′. The sandy neighborhood of

this settlement likens it to a little Arabia. The River Walla Walla pours

its waters a mile distant from the fort. The lowlands, when watered, are

tolerably fertile, and produce maize, wheat, potatoes, and pulse of every

kind. Cows and hogs are easily raised, and horses abound in this part of

the country.

Having already spoken to you of the desert Nez-Percé and Spokane, I have

nothing further to add relative to this dreary region. On advancing

easterly towards the Blue Mountains, we find beautiful and fertile

plains, interspersed with limpid and wholesome streams. The valleys are

picturesque, covered with luxuriant prairies, and forests of pine and

fir. The _Nez-Percé Kayuses_ inhabit these delightful pastures.[195] They

are the most wealthy tribes in Oregon; {105} even some private families

possess 1500 horses. The savages successfully cultivate potatoes, pease,

corn, and several kinds of vegetables and fruits. No situation affords

finer grazing for cattle; even in winter they find an abundance, nor do

they need shelter from the inclemency of the weather. Snow is never seen,

and the rains are neither destructive nor superabundant.

About the middle of July, I arrived safely with all my effects, at the

Bay of Kalispels. In my absence the number of neophytes had considerably

increased. On the feast of the Ascension, Father Hocken had the happiness

of baptizing more than one hundred adults. Since my departure in the

spring, our little colony has built four houses, prepared materials for

constructing a small church, and enclosed a field of 300 acres. More

than four hundred _Kalispels_, computing adults and children have been

baptized. They are all animated with fervor and zeal; they make use of

the hatchet and plough, being resolved to abandon an itinerant life

for a permanent abode. The beautiful falls of the Columbia, called the

Chaudières,[196] in the vicinity of Fort Colville, are distant two days’

journey from our new residence of St. Ignatius.

From eight to nine hundred savages were {106} there assembled for the

salmon fishery. I repaired thither in time to spend with them the nine

days preceding the feast of our holy founder. Within the last four years,

considerable numbers of these Indians were visited by the “black-gowns,”

who administered the sacrament of baptism. I was received by my dear

Indians with filial joy and tenderness. I caused my little chapel of

boughs to be placed on an eminence in the midst of the Indians’ huts,

where it might not inaptly be compared to the pelican of the wilderness

surrounded by her young, seeking with avidity the divine word, and

sheltering themselves under the protection of their fostering mother. I

gave three instructions daily; the Indians assisted at them with great

assiduity and attention.

Last year, the feast of St. Ignatius proved for me a day of danger,

trial, and uneasiness. I love to recall it to my mind, for it terminated

joyfully, and so gloriously, that I know my companions can never forget

it, and they will return lasting thanks to the Almighty, for the

display of His mercy. Without a chart or any knowledge of the mouth

of the Columbia, we traversed, as if borne on angels’ wings, this

formidable river. This year, I passed the feast {107} of St. Ignatius

amidst many occupations, but they were of such a nature as to console

the missionary’s heart, and repay him a hundred-fold, for the trifling

privations, pains, and fatigues he endures.

[Illustration: Mission of St. Ignatius at Kalispel Bay, among the Pends

d’Oreilles

(See Letter 5th)]

More than one hundred children were presented for baptism, and eleven old

men borne to me on skins, seemed only awaiting regenerating waters, to

depart home and repose in the bosom of their divine Saviour. The eldest

among them, apparently about one hundred, and blind, addressed me in the

following pathetic words:—My life has been long on earth, and my tears

have not ceased to flow; even now I daily weep, for I have beheld all my

children and early associates disappear. I find myself isolated among my

own nation, as if I were in a strange land, thoughts of the past alone

occupy me, and they are of a mournful and bitter nature. Sometimes I find

consolation in remembering that I have avoided the company of the wicked.

Never have I shared in their thefts, battles or murders. This blessed

day, joy has penetrated the inmost recesses of my soul; the Great Spirit

has taken pity on me, I have received baptism, I return him thanks for

this favor, and offer him my heart and life.

{108} A solemn mass was celebrated, during which the Indians chanted

canticles in praise of God. The ceremonies of baptism followed, and

all terminated in the most perfect order, to the great delight and

gratification of the savages. It was indeed a most imposing spectacle,

all around contributed to heighten the effect. The noble, and gigantic

rock, the distant roar of the cataracts breaking in on the religious

silence of that solitude, situated on an eminence overlooking the

powerful Oregon River, and on the spot where the impetuous waters freeing

themselves from their limits, rush in fury, and dash over a pile of

rocks, casting upwards a thousand jets d’eau, whose transparent columns

reflect, in varied colors, the rays of the dazzling sun.

There were besides the _Shuyelphi_ or _Chaudière_ Indians, the

_Sinpoils_, the _Zingomenes_ and several _Kalispels_, accompanied me in

the capacity of singers and catechists.[197]

I gave the name of St. Paul to the _Shuyelphi_ nation, and placed under

the care of St. Peter the tribe inhabiting the shores of the great

Columbia lakes, whither Father Hocken is about to repair, to continue

instructing and baptizing their adults. My presence among the Indians did

not interrupt their fine and abundant {109} fishery. An enormous basket

was fastened to a projecting rock, and the finest fish of the Columbia,

as if by fascination, cast themselves by dozens into the snare. Seven or

eight times during the day, these baskets were examined, and each time

were found to contain about 250 salmon. The Indians, meanwhile, were seen

on every projecting rock, piercing the fish with the greatest dexterity.

They who know not this territory may accuse me of exaggeration, when

I affirm, that it would be as easy to count the pebbles so profusely

scattered on the shores, as to sum up the number of different kinds

of fish, which this western river furnishes for man’s support; as the

buffalo of the north, and deer from north to east of the mountains,

furnish daily food for the inhabitants of those regions, so do these

fish supply the wants of the western tribes. One may form some idea of

the quantity of salmon and other fish, by remarking, that at the time

they ascend the rivers, all the tribes inhabiting the shores, choose a

favorable location, and not only do they find abundant nutriment during

the season, but, if diligent, they dry, and also pulverize and mix

with oil a sufficient quantity for the rest of the year. Incalculable

shoals of {110} salmon ascend to the river’s source, and there die in

shallow water. Great quantities of trout and carp follow them, and regale

themselves on the spawn deposited by the salmon in holes and still water.

The following spring the young salmon descend towards the sea, and I have

been told, (I cannot vouch for the authenticity,) that they never return

until the fourth year. Six different species are found in the Columbia

River.[198]

I left Chaudière or Kettle Falls, August 4th, accompanied by several

of the nation of the _Crees_ to examine the lands they have selected

for the site of a village. The ground is rich and well suited for all

agricultural purposes. Several buildings were commenced; I gave the

name of St. Francis Regis to this new station, where a great number of

the mixed race and beaver hunters have resolved to settle, with their

families.[199] The 6th I traversed the high mountains of the _Kalispels_,

and towards evening reached the establishment of St. Ignatius. The Rev.

Fathers Hocken and Ravalli, with two lay brothers, superintend this

interesting little settlement. These fathers likewise visit the different

neighboring tribes, such as the _Zingomenes_, _Sinpoils_, _Okinaganes_,

the stations of St. Francis {111} Regis, of St. Peter, and that of St.

Paul, the _Flat-bows_, and the _Koetenays_.[200] I purpose visiting

these two tribes, who have never yet had the consolation of beholding

a “black gown” among them. All these tribes comprehend, on an average,

about five hundred souls.

I am, with profound respect and esteem,

Your lordship’s most obedient servant,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. VI

A. M. D. G.

Station of the Assumption, Arcs-a-plats, August 17th, 1845.

MONSEIGNEUR,—The 9th of August I continued my route towards the country

of the _Arcs-a-plats_. The roads were still inundated by the great

freshet. I preferred ascending the Clark or Flathead River, in my bark

canoe, and sent my horses across the forests bordering the river, to

await me at the great lake of the _Kalispels_.[201] I had here a very

agreeable and unexpected interview; as we approached the forests, several

horsemen issued forth in tattered garments. The foremost gentleman

saluted me by name, with all the familiarity of an old acquaintance. I

returned the gracious salutation, desiring to know whom I had the honor

of addressing. A small river separated us, and, with a smile, he said,

“Wait until I reach the opposite shore, and then you will recognise

me.” He is not a {113} beaver hunter, said I to myself; yet under this

tattered garb and slouched hat, I could not easily descry one of the

principal members of the Hon. Hudson Bay Co., the worthy and respectable

Mr. Ogden. I had the honor and good fortune of making a voyage with him,

and in his own barge, from Colville to Fort Vancouver, in 1842; and no

one could desire more agreeable society.[202] It would be necessary

for you to traverse the desert, to feel yourself insulated, remote

from brethren, friends, to conceive the consolation and joy of such an

rencounter.

Mr. Ogden left England in the month of April last, accompanied by two

distinguished officers. It was a source of great pleasure to receive

recent news from Europe. The Oregon question appeared to me somewhat

alarming. It was neither curiosity nor pleasure that induced these two

officers to cross so many desolate regions, and hasten their course

towards the mouth of the Columbia. They were invested with orders from

their government to take possession of “Cape Disappointment,” to hoist

the English standard, and erect a fortress for the purpose of securing

the entrance of the river, in case of war.[203] In the Oregon question,

“John Bull,” without much talk, attains his {114} end, and secures the

most important part of the country; whereas “Uncle Sam,” displodes a

volley of words, inveighs and storms! Many years have been passed in

debates and useless contention, without one single practical _effort_

to secure his real or pretended rights. The poor Indians of Oregon,

who alone have a right to the country, are not consulted. Their future

destiny will be, undoubtedly, like that of so many other unfortunate

tribes, who, after having lived peaceably by hunting and fishing, during

several generations, will finally disappear, victims of vice and malady,

under the rapacious influence of modern civilization.

The route from the great _Kalispel_ lake to the _Arcs-a-plats_, or

Flatbow country, is across dense forests, and much obstructed by fallen

trees, morasses, frightful sloughs, from which the poor horses with much

difficulty extricate themselves; but, having finally surmounted all these

obstacles, we contemplate from an eminence a smiling and accessible

valley, whose mellow and abundant verdure is nourished by two lovely

lakes, where the graceful river of the Arcs-a-plats or McGilvray, winds

in such fantastic beauty, that it serves to make the weary traveller not

only forget his past dangers, but {115} amply compensates him for the

fatigues of a long and tiresome journey.[204]

This section of the valley of _Arcs-a-plats_ greatly resembles the two

valleys of the _Pointed Hearts_; same fertility of soil, lakes, pastures,

willow and pine groves; elevated mountains covered to the very summit

with dense forests of trees, low lands, in which the towering cedar

displays all its majesty and splendid foliage; and, as Racine says:—

“Elevent aux cieux

Leurs fronts audacieux!”

The river is, in this place, deep and tranquil; moving along with a tardy

pace until aroused from its inertness by the universal thaw; it then

descends with such astounding impetuosity that it destroys the banks, and

in its furious course, uproots and bears along trees, fragments of rocks,

&c., which vainly oppose its passage. In a few days the entire valley is

overflowed, and it presents to view immense lakes and morasses, separated

by borders of trees. Thus does the kind providence of God, assist his

poor creatures who inhabit these regions, by the liberality with which he

ministers to their wants.

{116} These lakes and morasses, formed in the spring, are filled with

fish; they remain there inclosed as in natural reservoirs, for the use

of the inhabitants. The fish swarm in such abundance that the Indians

have no other labor than to take them from the water and prepare them for

the boiler. Such an existence is, however, precarious; the savages, who

are not of a provident nature, are obliged to go afterwards in quest of

roots, grain, berries and fruits; such as the thorny bush which bears a

sweet, pleasant, blackberry; the rose-buds, mountain cherry, cormier or

service berry, various sorts of gooseberries and currants of excellent

flavor; raspberries, the hawthorn berry, the wappato, (sagitta-folia,)

a very nourishing, bulbous root; the bitter root, whose appellation

sufficiently denotes its peculiar quality, is, however, very healthy;

it grows in light, dry, sandy soil, as also the caious or biscuit

root.[205] The former is of a thin and cylindrical form; the latter,

though farinaceous and insipid, is a substitute for bread; it resembles

a small white radish; the watery potatoe, oval and greenish, is prepared

like our ordinary potatoe, but greatly inferior to it; the small onion;

the sweet onion, which bears a lovely flower resembling the {117} tulip.

Strawberries are common and delicious. To this catalogue I could add a

number of detestible fruits and roots which serve as nutriment for the

Indians, but at which a _civilized_ stomach would revolt and nauseate. I

cannot pass over in silence the camash root, and the peculiar manner in

which it is prepared. It is abundant, and, I may say, is the queen root

of this clime. It is a small, white, vapid onion, when removed from the

earth, but becomes black and sweet when prepared for food. The women

arm themselves with long, crooked sticks, to go in search of the camash.

After having procured a certain quantity of these roots, by dint of long

and painful labor, they make an excavation in the earth from twelve to

fifteen inches deep, and of proportional diameter, to contain the roots.

They cover the bottom with closely-cemented pavement, which they make red

hot by means of a fire. After having carefully withdrawn all the coals,

they cover the stones with grass and wet hay; then place a layer of

camash, another of wet hay, a third of bark overlaid with mould, whereon

is kept a glowing fire for fifty, sixty, and sometimes seventy hours. The

camash thus acquires a consistency equal to that of the jujube. {118} It

is sometimes made into loaves of various dimensions. It is excellent,

especially when boiled with meat; if kept dry, it can be preserved a long

time.[206]

As soon as their provisions are exhausted the Indians scour the plains,

forests, and mountains, in quest of game. If they are unsuccessful in the

chase, their hunger becomes so extreme, that they are reduced to subsist

on moss, which is more abundant than the camash. It is a parasite of

the pine, a tree common in these latitudes, and hangs from its boughs

in great quantities; it appears more suitable for mattresses, than for

the sustenance of human life. When they have procured a great quantity,

they pick out all heterogeneous substance, and prepare it as they do the

camash; it becomes compact, and is, in my opinion, a most miserable food,

which, in a brief space, reduces those who live on it to a pitiable state

of emaciation.[207]

Such are the _Arcs-a-plats_. They know neither industry, art, nor

science; the words _mine_ and _thine_ are scarcely known among them.

They enjoy, in common, the means of existence spontaneously granted them

by Nature; and as they are strangely improvident, they often pass from

the greatest abundance to extreme scarcity. {119} They feast well one

day, and the following is passed in total abstinence. The two extremes

are equally pernicious. Their cadaverous figure sufficiently demonstrates

what I here advance. I arrived among the _Arcs-a-plats_ in time to

witness the grand _fish festival_, which is yearly celebrated; the men

only have the privilege of assisting thereat. Around a fire fifty feet

long, partially overlaid with stones of the size of a turkey’s egg,

eighty men range themselves; each man is provided with an osier vessel,

cemented with gum and filled with water and fish. The _hall_ where this

extraordinary feast is celebrated is constructed of rush mats, and has

three apertures, one at either extremity for the entrance of guests;

the middle one serves for transporting the fish. All preparations being

completed, and each man at his post, the chief, after a short harangue

of encouragement to his people, finishes by a prayer of supplication to

the “Great Spirit,” of whom he demands an abundant draught. He gives the

signal to commence, and each one armed with two sticks flattened at the

extremity, makes use of them instead of tongs, to draw the stones from

the embers, and put them in his kettle. This process is twice renewed,

and in {120} the space of five minutes the fish are cooked. Finally, they

squat around the fire in the most profound silence to enjoy the repast,

each trembling lest a bone be disjointed or broken,—an indispensable

condition (a _sine quâ non_) of a plentiful fishery. A single bone broken

would be regarded as ominous, and the unlucky culprit banished the

society of his comrades, lest his presence should entail on them some

dread evil.

A species of sturgeon which measures from six to ten, and sometimes

twelve feet in length, is taken by the dart in the great lake of

_Arcs-a-plats_.[208]

Since my arrival among the Indians, the feast of the glorious Assumption

of the Blessed Virgin Mary has ever been to me a day of great

consolation. I had time to prepare for the celebration of this solemn

festival. Thanks be to the instructions and counsels of a brave Canadian,

Mr. Berland,[209] who for a long time has resided among them in the

quality of trader, I found the little tribe of _Arcs-a-plats_ docile,

and in the best disposition to embrace the faith. They had already been

instructed in the principal mysteries of religion. They sang canticles

in the French and Indian tongues. They number about ninety families. I

celebrated the first Mass ever offered in their {121} land; after which

ten adults already advanced in age and ninety children received baptism.

The former were very attentive to all my instructions. In the afternoon,

the erection of the cross was as solemn as circumstances would admit.

There was a grand salute of ninety guns, and at the foot of the lowly

standard of the God-Saviour, the entire tribe made a tender of their

hearts to Him, with the promise of inviolable attachment to all the

duties of true children of prayer, availing themselves of this occasion

to renounce the remains of their ancient juggling and superstition. The

cross was elevated on the border of a lake, and the station received

the beautiful name of the Assumption. Under the auspices of this good

Mother, in whose honor they have for many years sung canticles, we

hope that religion will take deep root and flourish amidst this tribe,

where union, innocence, and simplicity, reign in full vigor. They

ardently desire to be taught agriculture, the advantages of which I have

explained, and promised to procure the necessary seed and implements of

husbandry.

I have the honor to be, monseigneur, your most humble and obedient

servant in Jesus Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. VII

A. M. D. G.

Ford of Flat-Bow River,[210] Sept. 2d, 1845.

MONSEIGNEUR,—The _Flat-bows_ and _Koetenays_ now form one tribe,

divided into two branches. They are known throughout the country by the

appellation of the _Skalzi_.—Advancing towards the territory of the

Koetenays we were enchanted by the beautiful and diversified scenery.

We sometimes traversed undulatory woods of pine and cedar, from which

the light of day is partially excluded. We next entered sombre forests,

where, axe in hand, we were forced to cut our way and wind about to avoid

hosts of trees that had been levelled by the autumnal blasts and storms.

Some of these forests are so dense that, at the distance of twelve feet,

I could not distinguish my guide. The most certain way of extricating

one’s-self from these labyrinths, is to trust to the horse’s sagacity,

which, if left unguided, will follow the track of other animals. This

expedient has saved me a hundred times.

{123} I cannot refrain from communicating to your lordship the gloomy

and harrowing thoughts which imagination conjures up in these dismal

regions. The most fearful apprehensions dismay the bravest heart and

cause an involuntary shudder, as some dire apparition of a bear or

panther stalks in fancy before the mind, whilst groping our way amidst

these dark and frightful haunts, from which there is no egress. We caught

a transitory glimpse of many charming spots covered with vegetation as

we pursued our winding path near the river, wherever it deviated from

its natural course. At a place called the Portage, the river crosses a

defile of mountains, or rather of precipitous and frightful rocks; and

the traveller is compelled, for the distance of eight miles, to risk his

life at every step, and brave obstacles that appear, at first sight,

insuperable.[211]

Whatever can be imagined appalling seems here combined to terrify the

heart—livid gashes of ravines and precipices, giant peaks and ridges

of varied hue, inaccessible pinnacles, fearful and unfathomable chasms

filled with the sound of ever-precipitating waters, long, sloping and

narrow banks, which must be alternately ascended, and many times have I

been obliged {124} to take the attitude of a quadruped and walk upon my

hands; often during this perilous passage did I return fervent thanks to

the Almighty for his protection from impending danger. Amid these stern,

heaven-built walls of rocks, the water has forced its way in varied

forms, and we find cataracts and whirlpools engulfing crags and trees,

beneath their angry sway. Whilst the eye rests with pleasure on the rich

and russet hues of distant slopes, upland turf and rock-hung flower—the

ear is stunned by the confused sounds of murmuring rills, rushing

streams, impetuous falls, and roaring torrents.

An extensive plain at the base of the Portage mountain presents every

advantage for the foundation of a city. The mountains surrounding this

agreeable site are majestic and picturesque. They forcibly recalled

to my memory the noble Mapocho Mountains that encompass the beautiful

capital of Chili (Santiago). Innumerable little rills, oozing from the

mountain’s stony bosom, diffuse a transparent haze over the valleys and

lower slopes. The fine river Des Chutes comes roaring down and crosses

the plain before it joins its waters to the McGilvray, which tranquilly

pursues its course.[212] The quarries and forests appear inexhaustible;

and having remarked {125} large pieces of coal along the river, I am

convinced that this fossil could be abundantly procured. What would

this now solitary and desolate land become, under the fostering hand of

civilization? Indeed, the entire tract of the _Skalzi_ seems awaiting

the benign influence of a civilized people. Great quantities of lead

are found on the surface of the earth; and from the appearance of its

superior quality, we are led to believe there may be some mixture of

silver.[213]

Poor, unfortunate Indians! they trample on treasures, unconscious of

their worth, and content themselves with the fishery and chase. When

these resources fail, they subsist upon roots and herbs; whilst they eye,

with tranquil surprise, the white man examining the shining pebbles of

their territory. Ah! they would tremble, indeed, could they learn the

history of those numerous and ill-fated tribes that have been swept from

their land, to make place for Christians who have made the poor Indians

the victims of their rapacity. After a few days’ journey we arrived at

the Prairie du Tabac, the usual abode of the _Koetenays_.[214] Their

camp is situated in an immense and delightful valley, bounded by two

eminences, which, from their gentle and regular declivity, covered with

{126} smooth pebbles, appear to have originally bounded an extensive lake.

On my arrival, I found about thirty lodges of _Koetenays_; hunger had

forced many families to cross the great mountain. They came in quest

of the buffalo, elk, antelope, and stag. I was received with every

demonstration of joy and filial affection by those who remained in the

lodges. They hailed me with a long and boisterous discharge of musketry.

Several showed me their journal, consisting of a square stick on which

they had notched the number of days and weeks elapsed since I abode with

them in the neighborhood of the great lake Teteplatte.[215] They had

computed forty-one months and some days.

Mr. Berland had exerted his zeal to maintain the _Koetenays_ and their

brethren in the good dispositions in which I had the consolation of

finding them. Since my last visit they have followed, to the very letter,

all they remembered of my recommendations. I was obliged to decide some

controversial points, which they had misinterpreted or misapprehended.

They habitually assembled for morning and evening prayer, continued

the practice of singing canticles, and faithfully observed the Sabbath

precept.

{127} On the feast of the Holy Heart of Mary I sang High Mass, thus

taking spiritual possession of this land, which was now for the first

time trodden by a minister of the Most High. I administered the Sacrament

of Baptism to one hundred and five persons, among whom were twenty

adults. An imposing ceremony terminated the exercises of the day. Amidst

a general salute from the camp, a large cross was elevated. The chiefs,

at the head of their tribe, advanced and prostrated themselves before

that sacred ensign, which speaks so eloquently of the love of a Man-God,

who came to redeem a fallen race. At the foot of that sacred emblem, they

loudly offered their hearts to him who has declared himself our Master,

and the Divine Pastor of souls. This station bears the name of the Holy

Heart of Mary. One of our Fathers will soon visit the two branches of

this tribe.

Though these poor people were much in want of food, they pressed me to

remain some days amongst them, whilst they listened with avidity to my

instructions relative to their future conduct. After my departure they

divided into small bands to go in search of provisions among the defiles

of the mountains.

The 30th August I bade adieu to the _Koetenays_. {128} Two young men of

their tribe offered to conduct me to the country of the _Black-feet_,

and a third Indian, an expert hunter and good interpreter, completed

the number of my little escort. I then journeyed on towards the sources

of the Columbia.—The country we traversed was highly picturesque and

agreeably diversified by beautiful prairies, from which poured forth

spicy odors of flower, and shrub, and fresh spirit-elating breezes,

smiling valleys and lakes, surrounded by hoary and solemn pines,

gracefully waving their flexible branches. We also crossed magnificent

dark Alpine forests, where the sound of the axe has never resounded;

they are watered by streams which impetuously rush over savage crags and

precipices from the range of mountains on the right.[216] This stupendous

chain appears like some impregnable barrier of colossal firmness.

I am, with every sentiment of the most profound respect, your lordship’s

humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. VIII

A. M. D. G.

Head of the Columbia, September 9th, 1845.

All hail! Majestic Rock—the home,

Where many a wand’rer yet shall come,

Where God himself from his own heart,

Shall health, and peace, and joy impart.[217]

MONSEIGNEUR,—The 4th September, towards noon, I found myself at the

source of the Columbia. I contemplated with admiration those rugged and

gigantic mountains where the Great River escapes—majestic, but impetuous

even at its source; and in its vagrant course it is undoubtedly the most

dangerous river on the western side of the American hemisphere. Two small

lakes from four to six miles in length, formed by a number of springs and

streams, are the reservoirs of its first waters.[218]

I pitched my tent on the banks of the first fork that brings in its

feeble tribute, and which we behold rushing with impetuosity over the

inaccessible rocks that present themselves on {130} the right. What

sublime rocks! How varied in shape and figure! The fantastic in every

form, the attractive, the ludicrous, and the sublime, present themselves

simultaneously to the view; and by borrowing ever so little the aid of

the imagination, we behold rising before our astonished eyes, castles of

by-gone chivalry, with their many-embattled towers—fortresses, surrounded

by their walls and bulwarks—palaces with their domes—and, in fine,

cathedrals with their lofty spires.

On arriving at the two lakes, I saw them covered with swarms of aquatic

birds—coots, ducks, water-fowl, cormorants, bustards, cranes, and swans;

whilst beneath the tranquil water lay shoals of salmon in a state of

exhaustion. At the entrance of the second lake, in a rather shallow and

narrow place, I saw them pass in great numbers, cut and mutilated, after

their long watery pilgrimage among the rapids, cataracts, valleys, and

falls; they continue this uninterrupted procession during weeks and

months.[219]

Perhaps I shall scarcely be believed when I affirm that the salmon fish

are quarrelsome. I witnessed with surprise the sharp and vengeful bites

they mutually inflicted. These two lakes {131} form an immense tomb,

for they there die in such numbers as frequently to infect the whole

surrounding atmosphere.

In the absence of man, the grey and black bear, the wolf, the eagle, and

vulture assemble in crowds, at this season of the year. They fish their

prey on the banks of the river, and at the entrance of the lakes;—claws,

teeth and bills serving them instead of hooks and darts. From thence,

when the snow begins to fall, the bears, plump and fat, resume the road

back to their dens in the thick of the forests, and hollows of rocks,

there to pass the four sad wintry months in complete indolence, with no

other pastime or occupation, than that of sucking their four paws.

If we may credit the Indians, each paw occupies the bear for one moon,(a

_month_,) and the task accomplished, he turns on the other side, and

begins to suck the second, and so on with the rest.

I will here mention, _en passant_, all the hunters and Indians remark

that it is a very uncommon incident for a female bear to be killed when

with young, and, notwithstanding, they are killed in all seasons of the

year. Where they go—what becomes of them during the period {132} they

carry their young—is a problem yet to be solved by our mountain hunters.

When emigration, accompanied by industry, the arts and sciences, shall

have penetrated into the numberless valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the

source of the Columbia will prove a very important point. The climate

is delightful; the extremes of heat and cold are seldom known. The snow

disappears as fast as it falls; the laborious hand that would till these

valleys, would be repaid a hundred fold. Innumerable herds could graze

throughout the year in these meadows, where the sources and streams

nurture a perpetual freshness and abundance. The hillocks and declivities

of the mountains are generally studded with inexhaustible forests, in

which the larch tree, pine of different species, cedar and cypress abound.

In the plain between the two lakes, are beautiful springs, whose waters

have re-united and formed a massive rock of soft sandy stone, which

has the appearance of an immense congealed or petrified cascade. Their

waters are soft and pellucid; and of the same temperature as the milk

just drawn from the cow.[220] The description given by Chandler of the

famous fountain of Pambouk Kalesi, on the ancient Hieropolis of {133}

Asia Minor, in the valley of Meander, and of which Malte Brun makes

mention, might be literally applied to the warm springs at the source of

the Columbia.[221] The prospect unfolded to our view was so wonderful,

that an attempt to give even a faint idea of it, would savor of romance,

without going beyond the limits of fact.

We contemplated with an admiring gaze, this vast slope, which, from a

distance, had the appearance of chalk, and when nearer, extends like an

immense concreted cascade, its undulating surface resembling a body of

water suddenly checked or indurated in its rapid course.

The first lake of the Columbia is two miles and a half distant from the

River des Arcs-a-plats, and receives a portion of its waters during the

great spring freshet. They are separated by a bottom land.[222] The

advantages Nature seems to have bestowed on the source of the Columbia,

will render its geographical position very important at some future day.

The magic hand of civilized man would transform it into a terrestrial

paradise.

The Canadian! Into what part of the desert has he not penetrated? The

monarch who rules at the source of the Columbia is an honest emigrant

{134} from St. Martin, in the district of Montreal, who has resided for

twenty-six years in this desert. The skins of the rein and moose deer

are the materials of which his portable palace is composed; and to use

his own expressions, he EMBARKS on horseback with his wife and seven

children, and LANDS wherever he pleases. Here, no one disputes his right,

and Polk and Peel, who are now contending for the possession of his

dominions, are as unknown to our carbineer, as the two greatest powers

of the moon. His _sceptre_ is a beaver trap—his _law_ a carbine—the

one on his back, the other on his arm, he reviews his numerous furry

subjects the beaver, otter, muskrat, marten, fox, bear, wolf, sheep, and

white goat of the mountains, the black-tailed roe-buck, as well as its

red-tailed relative, the stag, the rein and moose deer; some of which

_respect his sceptre_—others _submit to his law_. He exacts and receives

from them the tribute of _flesh_ and _skins_. Encircled by so much

grandeur, undisturbed proprietor of all the sky-ward palaces, the strong

holds, the very last refuge which Nature has reared to preserve alive

liberty in the earth—solitary lord of these majestic mountains, that

elevate their icy summits even to the clouds,—Morigeau (our Canadian)

{135} does not forget his duty as a Christian. Each day, morning and

evening, he may be seen devoutly reciting his prayers, midst his little

family.

Many years had Morigeau ardently desired to see a priest; and when he

learned that I was about to visit the source of the Columbia, he repaired

thither in all haste to procure for his wife and children the signal

grace of baptism. The feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin, this

favor was conferred on them, and also on the children of three Indian

families, who accompany him in his migrations. This was a solemn day for

the desert! The august sacrifice of Mass was offered; Morigeau devoutly

approached the Holy Table;—at the foot of the humble altar he received

the nuptial benediction; and the mother, surrounded by her children

and six little Indians, was regenerated in the holy waters of baptism.

In memory of so many benefits, a large cross was erected in the plain,

which, from that time, is called the _Plain of the Nativity_.

I cannot leave my good Canadian without making an honorable mention of

his royal CUISINE A LA SAUVAGE. The first dish he presented me contained

two paws of a bear. In Africa, {136} this ragout might have given some

alarm; in effect, it bears a striking resemblance to the feet of a

certain race. A roast porcupine next made its appearance, accompanied by

a moose’s muzzle; the latter I found delicious. Finally, the great kettle

containing a sort of hotch-potch, or salmagundi, was placed in the midst

of the guests, and each one helped himself according to his taste.

Some remains of beef, buffalo, venison, beavers’ tails, hare, partridges,

&c., made an agreeable, substantial, famous soup.

I am, monseigneur, your most humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. IX

A. M. D. G.

Foot of the Cross of Peace, September 15th, 1845.

“——Here

Poplars and birch trees ever quivering played,

And nodding cedars formed a vagrant shade;

On whose high branches, waving with the storm,

The birds of broadest wings their mansion form;

The jay, the magpie, the loquacious crow,

And soar aloft and skim the deeps below.

Here limpid fountains from the clefts distil,

And every fountain forms a noisy rill,

In mazy windings wand’ring down the hill.”

MONSEIGNEUR,—We bade adieu to the Morigeau family on the 9th, and to

their companions of the chase, the _Sioushwaps_.[223] We quitted the

upper valley of the Columbia by a small footpath, which soon conducted

us to a narrow mountain defile, where the light of day vanished from

view, amidst the huge, bold barriers of colossal rocks. The grand, the

sublime, the beautiful, here form the most singular and fantastic {138}

combinations. Though gray is the prevailing color, we find an immense

rock of porphyry, or white-veined granite. Here and there, from the

fissures of the rock, or wherever there is a handful of dust, the

heavy and immortal pine enroots itself, adding its gloomy verdure to

the variegated hues of the torpid rocks. These circuitous paths often

present the most ravishing and picturesque vistas; surrounded by colossal

walls, the greatest diversity and most beautiful scenery in nature is

spread out before the eye, where the plush and cedar rise majestically

in these venerable woods, the graceful poplar waves on high its emerald

plumes, and fights its battles with the howling storm, whilst over the

precipitous and jagged rocks, the scarcely-waving pine fills the brown

shade with religious awe. The birch springs from an earth carpetted with

moss, and shines like magnificent silver columns, supporting diadems of

golden autumnal leaves, amidst the redolent purple-berried juniper and

azure turpentines, of these humid dells and forests.

After a day’s journey through these primeval scenes, we reached the banks

of the river Arcs-a-plats, where innumerable torrents rush headlong,

with a thousand mazes from the mountain’s {139} brow, and in their union

form this noble river. From afar is heard the deafening and continuous

sound of its own dashes, as it traverses a rocky bed with extraordinary

rapidity. We crossed the river in order to attempt the passage of another

defile, still more wonderful, where the waters of the Vermillion have

forced an opening.[224] Here, everything strikes the eye; all is wild

sublimity, in this profound but turbulent solitude. Projecting mountains

rise like holy towers where man might commune with the sky;—terrible

precipices hang in fragments overhead—the astounding noise of the

deep-tongued waves, in their unconfined flow, resembles that of the angry

tempest, sweeping wild and free, like the spirit of liberty. Now the

breaking waves play low upon the rock-ribbed beach, and madly plunge into

an abyss—anon it returns foaming to its sedgy bed, apparently sporting

with the sedges for diversion—falling from slope to slope, from cascade

to cascade, passing in its course a long train of rapids—now concealing

itself under the tufted foliage of cedar and pine—again pouring its

brilliant and crystalline waters into a capacious basin, as if to take

breath before quitting the ravine, and {140} finally precipitating its

wandering course with renovated vigor.

From this almost impenetrable forest issues a harmonious sound. ’Tis the

whistling or lowing of the noble stag, calling its companion. The moose,

the most vigilant of animals, gives the signal of alarm. He has heard the

crackling branch—he has inhaled the hunter’s deadly breath; a confused

noise is heard from the mountain; the sportsman raises his eager eye to

its summit, and scans a flock of rein-deer perched upon the snow; they

are startled at the approach of man; in an instant they are lost among

the inaccessible pinnacles, the

“Palaces where Nature thrones

Sublimity in icy halls.”

We often catch a glimpse of the graceful forms and nimble feats of the

roe-bucks, as they caper and gallop, or tarry an instant to look around,

with their lancet ears distended to catch every sound; these wild, forest

stragglers resume their course, and finally penetrate into the sombre

forest. Flocks of wild goats gambol carelessly and tranquilly beside

herds of mountain sheep above overhanging precipices and peaked rocks,

chequered by patches of snow, far beyond the reach of human footsteps.

{141} A monstrous animal, the grey bear, which replaces on our mountains,

the African lion, is not content with growling and menacing the intrepid

venturer, who dares infringe on his cavernous dominions, but grinds his

teeth, expressive of his rage. Suddenly, a well-aimed gun-shot forces him

to make a lowly reference; the formidable beast rolls in the dust, biting

the sand saturated with his blood, and expires.

The ordinary music of the desert is, the shrill cry of the panther, and

the howling of the wolf. The diminutive mountain hare, six inches high,

and whose biography has not yet found a place in natural history, amuses

itself amidst the stony rubbish, and exhibits wonderful activity; whilst

his neighbor, the lubberly porcupine, clambers up, seats himself upon

a branching cypress and gnaws the bark. He views the eager huntsman

with a careless and indifferent air, unconscious that his tender flesh

is regarded as a most delicious morsel. The industrious beaver, like

a wary sentinel, warns his family of man’s approach by striking the

water with his tail. The muskrat, or musquash, plunges immediately into

the water. The otter quits his sports and slides upon his belly among

the reeds—the timid squirrel leaps from bough to {142} bough, until it

reaches the topmost shade of the cypress; the marten jumps from tree to

tree, and buries itself in the foliage—the whistler and weasel repair

to their respective domicils:—a precipitous flight alone saves the

fox his rich silvery pelisse—the badger, or the groundhog, too remote

from his dwelling, digs the sandy soil, and buries himself alive, to

avoid pursuit—his magnificent skin is destined to adorn the loins of an

Indian—it requires the joint efforts of two men to force him from his

hiding place, and to kill him.

The evening previous to our egression from the blind mazes of this

tangled wood, our eyes were recreated by a ravishing scene. When it

presents itself after a disastrous combat, the spectacle consoles the

afflicted heart of the savage warrior. From the mountain’s top we

contemplated the “dance of the manitous or spirits, and the glorious

entrance of departed champions into the country of souls.” Vast columns

of light varying in splendor, appeared to divert and balance themselves

in the heavens:—some of perpendicular form; others resembling undulatory

waves; now concealing, now exhibiting themselves under diversified

aspects until the entire hemisphere seemed brilliantly {143} illuminated.

All these masses united at the zenith, and then separated under a variety

of forms.

Mysterious, solemn, cold and clear,

Their steps majestic rise,

Like barriers round this earthly sphere,

Like gates of Paradise.

Well may imagination faint

Before your sacred blaze,

And baffled science fail to paint

The source of heaven-lit rays.

The aurora borealis, is a phenomenon which I always contemplate with

mingled admiration and pleasure. All that is seen, all that is heard

in this unfathomable solitude, is both agreeable and instructive. It

strikes, captivates, and elevates the mind towards the Author of nature.

_Mirabilia opera Domini!_

After much fatigue, labor, and admiration, on the 15th we traversed the

high lands separating the waters of Oregon from those of the south branch

of the Sascatshawin, or the ancient Bourbon river, so called before the

Canadian conquest by the British.[225] It is the largest tributary of

the Winnepeg, which flows into Hudson’s Bay by the River Nelson, 58 deg.

north latitude.[226]

{144} The Christian’s standard, _the cross_, has been reared at the

source of these two rivers: may it be a sign of salvation and peace to

all the scattered and itinerant tribes east and west of these gigantic

and lurid mountains.

On the cypress which serves for constructing the cross, the eagle, emblem

of the Indian warrior, perches himself. The huntsman aims—the noble bird

lies prostrate, and even in his fall, seems to retain his kingly pride.

It so forcibly recalls to memory the beautiful lines of the illustrious

Campbell, that I quote them in full:—

Fallen as he is, the king of birds still seems

Like royalty in ruins. Though his eyes

Are shut, that looked undazzled on the sun,

He was the sultan of the sky, and earth

Paid tribute to his eyrie. It was perched

Higher than human conqueror ever built

His bannered fort....

... He cloved the adverse storm

And cuffed it with his wings. He stopped his flight

As easily as the Arab reins his steed,

And stood at pleasure ’neath heaven’s zenith, like

A lamp suspended from its azure dome;

Whilst underneath him the world’s mountains lay

Like mole-hills, and her streams like lucid threads.

We breakfasted on the bank of a limpid lake at the base of the “Cross of

Peace,” from whence {145} I have the honor of dating my letter, and of

giving you the renewed assurance of my profound respect and veneration;

recommending to your fervent prayers, in a special manner, this vast

desert, which contains so many precious souls still buried in the shades

of death.

Monseigneur, your very humble and devoted servant in Jesus Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. X

A. M. D. G.

Camp of the Assiniboins, Sept. 26th, 1845.

“Here bloomy meads with vivid greens are crown’d,

And glowing violets throw sweet odors round.”

MONSEIGNEUR,—By a steep declivity we entered a rich valley, agreeably

diversified by enamelled meads, magnificent forests, and lakes—in

which the salmon-trout so abound, that in a few minutes we procured

sufficient for an excellent repast. The valley is bounded on either

side by a succession of picturesque rocks, whose lofty summits, rising

in the form of pyramids, lose themselves in the clouds. The far-famed

Egyptian monuments of Cheops and Cephren dwindle into nought, before

this gigantic architectural cliff of nature. The natural pyramids of the

Rocky mountains seem to deride the artificial skill of man; they serve as

a resting place for the clouds that come hither to seek repose, and to

encircle their giant brows. The Lord’s omnipotent {147} hand has laid the

foundations—_he_ has permitted the elements to form them, and in every

age they proclaim His power and glory!

We emerged from this delightful valley, on the 18th of September, after

a three days’ excursion, and recommenced our mountainous peregrination,

which presented nothing but obstacles and contusions, both to men and

horses. For the space of six hours we were compelled to trace our route

across fragments of broken rocks, through an extensive and parched

forest, and where millions of half-consumed trees lay extended in

every direction. Not a trace of vegetation remained, and never had I

contemplated so dismal and destructive a conflagration!

We reached the River des Arcs or Askow, in the evening, and pitched our

solitary tent upon the shore.[227] Here we discovered some vestiges of

a savage party. Five days previous, nine lodges of Indians had encamped

upon the very spot. We made a careful search, and my guides imagined they

were the formidable Black-feet![228] We, the same day, saw two smokes at

the extremity of the plain over which these barbarians had travelled.

My companions seemed to hesitate, as we drew near the vicinity {148}

of these fearful Black-feet. They recounted to me their inauspicious

dreams, and wished to deter me from proceeding. One said: “_I_ saw

myself devoured by a wild bear;” another, “_I_ saw ravens and vultures,

(ill-omened birds), hovering over the head of our father;” a third saw

a bloody spectacle. I gave them, in my turn, the history of one of _my_

sentries, the archetype of vigilance, courage and simplicity.

“Midst the dark horrors of the sable night

(No idle dream I tell nor fancy’s strain)

Thrice rose the red man’s shade upon my sight,

Thrice vanished into dusky air again.

With courage high my panting bosom swells,

Onward I rushed upon the threatening foe,

When, hark! Horrific rise the spectre’s yells

He points the steel and aims the fatal blow;

Guard, sentinel! to arms! to arms! to arms!

Indians! Indians! my voice swelled loud and deep:

The camp is roused at dread of my alarms,

They wake and find—_that I am sound asleep_!”

They were greatly amused at the recital of _his_ imaginary fancies,

and seemed to understand how little import I attached to such visions.

“Happen what may,” said they, “we shall never quit our father until

we see him in a place of safety.” This was precisely what I desired.

I could not, however, deceive myself. {149} I had finally entered a

land, the theatre of so many sanguinary scenes. I was now on the very

confines of these barbarous people, from which, possibly, I should never

return! It not unfrequently happens, that, in their unbridled fury

when they hear some relative has been killed, the Black-feet despatch

the first stranger they meet, scalp him—and then abandon to the wolves

and dogs, the palpitating limbs of the unfortunate victim of their

vengeance, hatred, and superstition. I declare to you, I was beset by a

thousand disquietudes concerning the fate that awaited me. Poor nature!

this timid and fragile _meus homo_ is sometimes terrified. He would

wish to look back and listen to dreams. My longing desires repeated

incessantly—_Advance_! I placed my whole confidence in God—the prayers

of so many fervent souls encouraged and re-animated me; I resolved not

to be deterred by an uncertain danger. The Lord can, when he pleases,

mollify these pitiless and ferocious hearts. The salvation of souls is

at stake, and the preservation of the mission of St. Mary’s depends

on my proceeding; for there, the incursions of the Black-feet are very

frequent. What consideration could deter me from a project {150} which my

heart had cherished, since my first visit among the mountains?

The 19th and 20th, we followed the tracks of our unknown predecessors,

and they appeared more and more recent. I despatched my two guides to

reconnoitre, and ascertain whom we were so closely pursuing.—One of them

returned the same evening, with the news that he had found a small camp

of Assiniboins of the forest; that they had been well received; that a

disease reigned in the camp, of which two had lately died, and that they

expressed great desire to see the _Black-gown_. The following morning we

joined them, and journeyed several days in company.

The Assiniboins of the forest do not amount to more than fifty lodges

or families, divided into several bands.[229] They are seldom seen in

the plains; the forest is their element, and they are renowned huntsmen

and warriors. They travel over the mountains and through the woods, over

the different forks and branches of the sources of the Sascatshawin

and Athabaska. Agriculture is unknown to this tribe; they subsist

exclusively on small animals, such as big-horns, goats, bucks; but

especially on the porcupine, which swarms in this region. When pressed by

{151} hunger, they have recourse to roots, seeds, and the inner bark of

the cypress tree. They own few horses, and perform all their journeys on

foot.

Their hunters set out early in the morning, kill all the game they meet,

and suspend it to the trees, as they pass along,—their poor wives,

or rather their slaves, often bearing two children on their backs,

and dragging several more after them, tardily follow their husbands,

and collect what game the latter have killed. They had a long file of

famished dogs, loaded with their little provisions, etc. Every family has

a band of six to twelve of these animals, and each dog carries from 30

to 35 lbs. weight. They are the most wretched animals in existence; from

their tender-hearted masters and mistresses they receive more bastinados

than morsels, consequently they are the most adroit and incorrigible

rogues to be found in the forest. Every evening we find it necessary

to hang all our property upon the trees, beyond the reach of these

voracious dogs. We are even compelled to barricade ourselves within our

tents at night, and surround them with boughs of trees; for, whatever is

of leather, or whatever has pertained to a living being, these crafty

rogues bear away, and devour. You will say I have little charity {152}

for these poor brutes—but be not astonished. One fine evening, having

neglected the ordinary precaution of blocking up the entrance of my tent,

I next morning found myself without shoes—with a collarless cassock—and

_minus_ one leg to my _culottes de peau_!!! One of the chiefs of this

little camp recounted to me, that last winter, one of his nation, having

been reduced to extreme famine, (and such cases are not rare,) had eaten

successively, HIS WIFE AND FOUR CHILDREN. The monster then fled into the

desert, and he has never been heard of since.

The Oregon missionary, Rev. Mr. Bolduc, related in his journal, that

at Akena, one of the Gambia Isles, he saw an old dame, who, having had

_eight_ husbands, had eaten three of them, during a time of famine!! I

add this last fact to give you a reverse to the above horrible picture.

The Assiniboins have the reputation of being irascible, jealous, and

fond of babbling; in consequence of these bad qualities, battles and

murders are not unfrequent among them, and of course continual divisions.

Every evening I gave them instruction, by means of an interpreter. They

appeared docile, though somewhat timorous: for they had frequently

been visited {153} by persons who defamed both priests and religion. I

rendered all the little services in my power to their invalids, baptized

six children and an old man who expired two days after, he was interred

with all the funeral ceremonies and prayers of the church.

Cleanliness is a virtue which has no place in the Indian catalogue

of domestic or personal duties. The Assiniboins are filthy beyond

conception; they surpass all their neighbours in this unenvied

qualification. They are devoured by vermin, which they, in turn, consume.

A savage, whom I playfully reprehended for his cruelty to these little

invertebral insects, answered me: “He bit me first, I have a right to be

revenged.” Through complacency, I overcame natural disgust, and assisted

at their porcupine feast. I beheld the Indians carve the meat on their

leathern shirts, highly polished with grease—filthy, and swarming with

vermin, they had disrobed themselves, for the purpose of providing a

table-cloth!—They dried their hands in their hair—this is their only

towel—and as the porcupine has naturally a strong and offensive odor,

one can hardly endure the fragrance of those who feast upon its flesh and

besmear themselves with its oil.

{154} A good old woman, whose face was anointed with blood, (THE INDIANS’

MOURNING WEEDS,) presented me a wooden platter filled with soup; the horn

spoon destined for my use was dirty and covered with grease; she had the

complaisance to apply it to the broad side of her tongue, before putting

it into my unsavory broth.

If a bit of dried meat, or any other provision is in need of being

cleansed, the dainty cook fills her mouth with water and spirts it

with her whole force upon the fated object. A certain dish, which is

considered a prime delicacy among the Indians, is prepared in a most

singular manner, and they are entitled to a patent for the happy faculty

of invention. The whole process belongs exclusively to the female

department. They commence by rubbing their hands with grease, and

collecting in them the blood of the animal, which they boil with water;

finally, they fill the kettle with fat and hashed meat. But—HASHED WITH

THE TEETH! Often half a dozen old women are occupied in this mincing

operation during hours; mouthful after mouthful is masticated, and thus

passes from the mouth into the cauldron, to compose the choice ragout

of the Rocky mountains. Add to this, by way of an exquisite desert, an

immense dish of crusts, {155} composed of pulverized ants, grass-hoppers

and locusts, that have been dried in the sun, and you may then be able to

form some idea of Indian luxury.

The American porcupine, the _Hystrix dorsata_, is called by modern

Zoologists, the _Prickly Beaver_. In fact there is great similarity

between the two species in size and form, and both inhabit the same

region. The porcupine, like the beaver, has a double peltry or fur;

the first is long and soft; the second, is still softer, and greatly

resembles down or felt. They both have two long sharp, strong tusks, at

the extremity of the jaw-bone. The Flat-heads affirm that the porcupine

and beaver are brothers, and relate that anciently they abode together;

but that, having frequently been discovered by their enemies, through the

indolence, idleness and extreme aversion of the porcupines for the water,

the beavers met in council and unanimously agreed upon a separation. The

latter availed themselves of a fine day and invited their spiny brethren

to accompany them in a long ramble, among the cypress and juniper of the

forest. The indolent and heedless porcupines, having copiously regaled

themselves with the savory buds of the one, and the tender rind {156} of

the other, extended their weary limbs upon the verdant moss, and were

soon lost in profound sleep. This was the anticipated moment for the wily

beavers to bid a final adieu to their porcupine relatives.

The Assiniboins inhabiting the plains are far more numerous than their

mountain brethren. They number about six hundred lodges; they own a

greater number of horses, and the men, in general, are more robust, and

of a commanding stature. They are more expert in thieving, are greater

topers, and are perpetually at war. They hunt the buffalo in the great

plains between the Sascatshawin, the Red river, Missouri, and Yellow

Stone.[230]

The Crows, Black-feet, Arikaras and Sioux are their most inveterate

enemies.—They speak nearly the same language as the Sioux, and have the

same origin.

I have the honor to be, with the most profound respect and veneration,

monseigneur, your very humble and very obedient servant in Christ Jesus,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. XI

A. M. D. G.

Fort of the Mountains, October 5, 1845.

MONSEIGNEUR,—The last few days we journeyed with the little Assiniboin

camp, the aspect of the country offered nothing very interesting. We

passed from valley to valley between two high chains of adamantine

mountains, whose slopes are, here and there, ornamented with mounds of

perpetual snow. A beautiful crystalline fountain issues from the centre

of a perpendicular rock about five hundred feet high, and then pours its

waters over the plain in foam and mist.

The 29th we separated from the Assiniboins; the path conducted us through

a thick forest of cypress; I am told this is the last—DEO GRATIAS!

These belts of tall firs are very numerous, and form great obstacles

and barriers to land communications between the east and west of the

mountains. I have a little word of advice to {158} give all who wish to

visit these latitudes. At the entrance of each thick forest, one should

render himself as slender, as short, and as contracted as possible,

imitating the different evolutions in all encounters of an intoxicated

cavalier, but with skill and presence of mind. I mean to say, he should

know how to balance himself—cling to the saddle in every form, to avoid

the numerous branches that intercept his passage, ever ready to tear

him into pieces, and flay his face and hands. Notwithstanding these

precautions, it is rare to escape without paying tribute in some manner

to the ungracious forest. I one day found myself in a singular and

critical position: in attempting to pass under a tree that inclined

across the path, I perceived a small branch in form of a hook, which

threatened me. The first impulse was to extend myself upon the neck

of my horse. Unavailing precaution! It caught me by the collar of my

surtout, the horse still continuing his pace.—Behold me suspended in the

air—struggling like a fish at the end of a hook. Several respectable

pieces of my coat floated, in all probability, a long time in the forest,

as an undeniable proof of my having paid toll in passing through it. A

crushed and torn hat—{159} an eye black and blue—two deep scratches on

the cheek, would, in a civilized country, have given me the appearance

rather of a bully issuing from the _Black Forest_, than a missionary.

To render a bad forest superlatively so, a great fall of snow is

necessary. This special favor was lavished upon us in this last passage.

Wo to the first pedestrians! The branches groan under the burden of their

wintry shroud, and seem to present the motto: “_Si tangas frangas!_” and

assuredly, at each rubbing of the hat, the least touching of the arm

or leg, a deluge of snow showers down upon the shivering cavalier and

horse. Immediately the branch rises proudly as if in derision. On such

occasions, there is nothing better to be done than to form a rear guard,

and walk in the track of the predecessor.

In pursuing our route, the 27th, on one of the branches of the river

“a la Biche,” (Red Deer on the maps), we remarked several sulphurous

fountains, which furnish great quantities of sulphur, and a coal mine,

apparently very abundant.[231]

[Illustration: Hunters at the Buffalo Feast]

I here beg the favor of a short digression from my subject. Coal abounds

east of the Rocky {160} Mountains, on the borders of the Missouri and

Yellow Rock, on the Sascatshawin and Athabaska. Saltpetre is found in

abundance, and iron is not scarce in many parts of the mountains. I have

already spoken of lead in the country of the “Koetenays,” the name of the

river at the copper mine in the north, indicates its riches; bars of this

precious metal are discovered among the rocks bordering the river. Rock

salt is found in powder, and very plentiful in the Pays Serpent.[232]

The valley is picturesque and variegated; flocks of sheep and goats

contribute to beautify the scenery. We find many tracks of the bears

and buffaloes; on seeing the latter my party became animated; for the

buffaloes’ flesh is, without contradiction, the most delicate of these

regions. One is never tired of it. Hitherto, the animals of the mountains

had abundantly satisfied our necessities, for the huntsmen killed no

less than eighteen pieces, without counting the fowl and fish which

are so plentiful in this country. The same evening the remainder of

our provisions was consumed, and a buffalo chase was proposed for the

following day. One of the sportsmen set out early, and at breakfast time

we perceived him coming, with a round {161} fat cow; immediately the

ribs, tripes, etc., honored the fire with their presence. The rest of the

day was spent in seeking fresh provisions.

The 30th, we continued our route through the valley, where a rivulet

of clear water meanders. It is similar to all the other valleys west

of the mountains, agreeably diversified with meadows, lakes, and

forests—the valley widens in proportion as one descends—the rocky banks

disappear—the mountains decrease, and appear insensibly to commingle with

one another. Some are covered with forests even to their tops, others

present cones, elevated ramparts, covered with rich verdure.

The 4th October, after having traversed the great chain of mountains

nineteen days in pursuit of the Black-Feet, we entered the vast plain,

this ocean of prairies, inhabited by a multitude of roving savages,

buried in the deepest superstition. The Black-Feet, Crows, Serpents,

Arikaras, Assiniboins of the plains, the Sheyennes, Camanches, Sioux,

Omahas, Ottos, Pawnees, Kants, Saucs, Ajouas,[233] etc., etc., are

without pastors! We hope that Divine Providence has not deferred the

epoch when the darkness now overwhelming these immense regions will

give place to the beneficial light of {162} the gospel;—that worthy and

zealous pastors will come to guide in the way of salvation these poor and

unhappy children of the desert, who, during so many ages, have groaned

under the dominion of the devil, and among whom the war-song and the cry

of carnage never ceased to resound. There, we hope, will reign in their

turn, peace and Christian charity, and the fragrance of divine love and

praise ascend to the only true God.

The worthy Bishop of Juliopolis has established his See on the Red

river, a tributary of the Winnepeg, amidst the possessions of the

Anglo-Indians.[234] Already two of his zealous missionaries, Rev. Messrs.

Thibault and Bourassa, have penetrated to the very foot of the Rocky

Mountains, whilst other indefatigable priests have been employed, for

many years, in extending the kingdom of God in this immense diocess.

The population of Red River is about 5,500 souls, of whom 3,175 are

Catholics. There are 730 houses inhabited. I had the honor of receiving a

letter from the Rev. Mr. Thibault on my arrival in this latitude. He says:

“From the month of March to September last, I have labored among the

mountain nations; they are well disposed to embrace the {163} faith. I

cannot give you a better idea of these people than by comparing them to

the Flatheads. I have baptized more than five hundred children and adults

in the course of this mission. As soon as I find the opportunity of a

water conveyance, I shall continue my labors among these good savages,

and extend my route as far as McKenzie’s river. A rich harvest would be

there found for many laborers in the sacred ministry, for this nation is

populous and occupies a vast extent of country, without including several

other nations I visited this summer. ‘Come, then, to us,’ said they,

‘we, also, shall be happy to learn the joyful news you have brought our

brethren of the mountains; we are to be pitied, not knowing the word of

the Great Spirit; be, therefore, charitable to us—come, teach _us_ the

way of salvation—we will listen to it.’

“My fellow-laborer, Bourassa, set out in September, to announce the

Gospel to the Indians residing near the river de la Paix.”[235]

From Lake St. Anne, or Manitou, the ordinary residence of these two

gentlemen, they extend their apostolic course to the different tribes on

the rivers Athabaska and McKenzie, Peace river, and Slave lake.[236]

{164} Within the limits, as far as they have travelled, are found

the Black-Feet, Crees, Assiniboins of the forest, of the mountains,

Beaver Hunters, Flat-side Dogs, Slaves, and Deer-Skins.[237] (It is by

these names that the different Indians are known among the whites and

travellers.)

The great Indian district of the United States is (if I may say so) the

only one deprived of spiritual succor and the means of salvation. It

contains several hundred thousand savages. This vast territory is bounded

on the north-west by the Anglo-Indian possessions—east by the Western

States—south by Texas and Mexico—west by the Rocky Mountains. It contains

many forts or trading houses, in which the greater number of persons

employed are Canadian Catholics or French creoles. The principal of these

forts are, Fort des Corbeaux, or Alexander, on the Yellow Stone, Fort la

Ramee, on a branch of the river Platte, Fort Osage, on the river of the

same name—Fort Pied-noir, or Lewis, at the mouth of the river Maria, Fort

Union near the mouth of the Yellow Rock, Fort Berthold, Fort Mandan or

Clark, near the mouth of the Little Missouri, Fort Pierre, Fort Look-out

and Fort Vermillion at the mouth of this river, the other trading {165}

houses among the Pottowatomies of Council Bluffs and of Belle-vue for the

Ottos and Pawnees. The great depository which furnishes these Forts and

receives all the peltry and buffalo hides, is kept at St. Louis.[238]

Monseigneur Loras, Bishop of Dubuque, has sent two priests among the

Sioux, on the river St. Pierre, a tributary of the Mississippi.[239]

The Society of Jesus has a mission among the Pottowatomies on Sugar

Creek, a tributary of the Osage river.[240] The Ladies of the Sacred

Heart have an establishment here. During the summer of 1841, the late

distinguished Madame de Galitzin, provincial of the Order in America,

visited this section of the country for the purpose of founding, among

these rude savages, a house of education, in which the hapless children

of the desert now enjoy the benefit of being instructed in the Christian

faith, of being formed to habits of industry and cleanliness, and

acquiring a knowledge of those branches of education suited to their

condition.—These two missions are located near the frontiers of the

States, and are the only ones in this immense territory.

The upper Missouri, and all its branches as far as the Rocky Mountains,

are without spiritual assistance {166}. Wherever _the priest_ has passed

in traversing the desert, he has been received with open arms among the

tribes that rove over this country—alas! so long a time forgotten and

neglected!

The evening of 4th October, I arrived at the Fort des Montagnes,

belonging to the Hon. Hudson Bay Company, without having accomplished

the object of my travels and my desires, namely, meeting the

_Black-feet_.[241] The respectable and worthy commander of the Fort,

Mr. Harriot, an Englishman by birth, is among the most amiable gentlemen

I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. He invited, and received into

his hospitable Fort the poor missionary, a Catholic and stranger, with

politeness and cordiality truly fraternal. These qualities characterize

all the gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and although Mr. Harriot

is a Protestant, he encouraged me to visit the _Black-feet_, who would

soon arrive at the Fort, promising me to use all his influence with these

barbarians to obtain me a friendly reception. He has resided many years

among them, nevertheless he did not conceal from me that I should soon be

exposed to great dangers. “We are in the hands of God—may His holy will

be done.”

{167} I am, with the most profound respect and esteem, monseigneur, your

very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ,

_P. J. De Smet, S. J._

No. XII

A. M. D. G.

Fort of the Mountains, October 30th, 1845.

MONSEIGNEUR,—A band of about twenty Crees, encamped near the Fort, came

to shake hands cordially with me on my arrival. The joy my presence

seemed to occasion them, proved that I was not the first priest they

had seen. Moreover, the greater number wore medals and crosses.

They informed me that they too had been so fortunate as to have a

_Black-Gown_, (Rev. Mr. Thibault,) who taught them to know and serve the

Great Spirit—and baptized all their little children, with the exception

of three, who were absent on the occasion. These children were brought

to me—I administered baptism to them, and at the same time to one of

my guides, a Koetenay. During their stay at the Fort, I gave them

instructions every evening.

Two Crees, of the same band and family, father and son, had been killed

in a quarrel two {169} years since. The presence of the offending party

for the first time since the perpetration of the murder, rekindled in

the others that spirit of rancor and revenge so natural to an Indian’s

breast, and there was every reason to apprehend fatal consequences from

the old feud.

With the approbation of Mr. Harriot, I assembled them all in the Fort;

the governor himself had the kindness to be my interpreter. He made a

long discourse on the obligation and necessity of their coming to a

sincere reconciliation; the matter was discussed in form, each Indian

giving his opinion in turn, with a good sense and moderation that

surprised me. I had the pleasure and satisfaction of seeing the calumet

passed around the assembly. This is the solemn pledge of peace—the

token of Indian brotherhood—the most formal declaration of the entire

forgetfulness and sincere pardon of an injury.