The mean height of the barometer, during our stay at Nisqually, was

30.046 inches, and of the thermometer 66° 58′ Fahrenheit. The thermometer

at 4 A. M. on the 4th of July, was at 50° Fahrenheit, and on the same

day, at 2 P. M., 90° Fahrenheit. The lowest degree was 39° at 4 A. M.,

May 22d, and at 5 P. M. of the same day, the temperature was 72° of

Fahrenheit.

From June to September at Vancouver the mean height of the barometer

was 30.32 inches, and the thermometer 66° 33′ of Fahrenheit. Out of one

hundred and six days, seventy-six were fair, nineteen cloudy, and eleven

rainy. The rains are light; this is evident from the hills _not being

washed_, and having a sward to their tops, _although of great declivity_.

The second, or middle section, is subject to droughts. During the summer

the atmosphere is much drier and warmer, and the winter much colder than

in the western section. Its extremes of heat and cold are more frequent

and greater, the mercury at times falling as low as minus 18° of {292}

Fahrenheit in the winter, and rising to 180° [_sic_] in the shade in

summer; the daily difference of temperature is about 40° Fahrenheit. It

has, however, been found extremely salubrious, possessing a pure and

healthy air.

The stations of the missionaries and posts of the Hudson’s Bay Company,

have afforded me the means of obtaining information relative to the

climate. Although full data have not been kept, yet these observations

afford a tolerably good knowledge of the weather.

In summer the atmosphere is cooled by the strong westerly breezes, which

replace the vacuum produced by the heated prairie grounds. No dews fall

in this section.

The climate of the third, or eastern section, is extremely variable. The

temperature during the day, differing from 50° to 60°, renders it unfit

for agriculture, and there are but few places in its northern part where

the climate would not effectually put a stop to its ever becoming settled.

In each day, from the best accounts, all the changes are experienced

incident to spring, summer, autumn, and winter. There are places where

small farms might be located, but they are few in number.

{293} SOIL.—That of the first, or western section varies in the northern

parts from a light brown loam to a thin vegetable earth, with gravel

and sand as a sub-soil: in the middle parts, from a rich heavy loam and

unctuous clay to a deep heavy black loam on a trap rock; and in the

southern, the soil is generally good, varying from a black vegetable loam

to decomposed basalt, with stiff clay, and portions of loose gravel soil.

The hills are generally basalt, and stone, and slate.

Between the Umpqua and the boundary, the rocks are primitive, consisting

of talcon slate, hornblende, and granite, which produce a gritty and poor

soil; some places of rich prairie however, occur covered with oaks.

The soil of the second, or middle section, is for the most part a light

sandy loam, in the valleys rich alluvial, and the hills are generally

barren.

The third, or eastern section, is a rocky, broken, and barren country.

Stupendous mountain spurs traverse it in all directions, affording little

level ground; snow lies on the mountains nearly, if not quite, the year

through.

AGRICULTURE, PRODUCTIONS, &C.—The {294} first section, for the most part,

is a well-timbered country; it is intersected with the spurs, or offsets,

from the Cascade mountains, which render its surface much broken: these

are covered with a dense forest. It is well-watered, and communication

between the northern, southern, and middle parts is difficult, on account

of the various rivers, spurs of mountains, &c.

The timber consists of pines, firs, spruce, oaks, (red and white), ash,

arbutus, arbor vitæ, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, cherry, and tew, with

a close undergrowth of hazel, rubus, roses, &c. The richest and best

soil is found on the second or middle prairie, and is best adapted for

agriculture, the high and low being excellent for pasture land.

The pine woods run on the east side, and near the foot of the Cascade

range. The climate and soil are admirably adapted for all kinds of

grain, wheat, rye, oats, barley, peas, &c. Indian corn does not thrive

in any part of this territory where it has been tried. Many fruits

appear to succeed well, particularly the apple and pear. Vegetables grow

exceedingly well, and yield most abundantly.

The surface of the middle section is about one thousand feet above the

level of the first {295} or western section, and is generally a rolling

prairie country. That part lying to the north of the parallel of 48° is

very much broken with mountain chains and rivers, consequently barren and

very rugged. From the great and frequent changes in its temperature, it

is totally unfit for agriculture, but is well supplied with game of all

the kinds which are found in the country.

The mountain chains on the parallel of 48° are cut off by the Columbia,

as before stated, leaving an extensive rolling country in the centre of

the Territory, which is well adapted for grazing.

The southern part of this section is destitute of timber or wood, unless

the wormwood (artimesia) may be so called. To the northward of the

parallel of 49° it is covered with forests. Wheat and other grains grow

well in the bottoms, where they can be irrigated. The soil in such places

is rich, and capable of producing almost any thing.

The missionaries have succeeded in raising good crops. Stock succeeds

here even better than in the lower country. Notwithstanding the severe

cold, the cattle are not housed, nor is provender laid in for them, the

country being sufficiently supplied with fodder in the natural hay that

is abundant {296} everywhere in the prairie, which is preferred by the

cattle to the fresh grass at the bottoms.

No attempts at agriculture have been made in the third section, except

at Fort Hall. The small grains thrive tolerably well, together with

vegetables, and a sufficient quantity has been obtained to supply

the wants of the post. The ground is well adapted for grazing in the

prairies, and, despite its changeable climate, stock is found to thrive

well and endure the severity of the winter without protection.

This section is exceedingly dry and arid, rains seldom falling, and

but little snow. The country is partially timbered, and the soil much

impregnated with salts. The missionary station on the Koos-koos-ke, near

the western line of this section, is thought by the missionaries to be a

_wet climate_.[107]

The soil along the river bottoms is generally alluvial, and would yield

good crops, were it not for the overflowing of the rivers, which check

and kill the grain. Some of the finest portions of the land are thus

unfit for cultivation; they are generally covered with water before the

banks are {297} overflown, in consequence of the quicksands which exist

in them, and through which the water percolates.

The rivers of this Territory afford no fertilizing properties to the

soil, but, on the contrary, are destitute of all substances. The

temperature of the Columbia in the latter part of May was 42°, and in

September 68°.

The rise of the streams flowing from the Cascade mountains takes place

twice a-year, in February and November, from the rains; that of the

Columbia in May and June, from the melting of the snows. Sometimes the

rise of the latter is very sudden, if heavy rains occur at that period;

but usually it is gradual, and reaches its greatest height from the

6th to the 15th of June. Its perpendicular rise is from eighteen to

twenty feet at Vancouver, where a line of embankment has been thrown up

to protect the lower prairie; but it has been generally flooded, and

the crops in most cases destroyed. It is the intention to abandon its

cultivation, and devote it to pasturage.

The greatest rise in the Willamette takes place in February; and I was

informed that it rose sometimes twenty to twenty-five feet, {298} and

quite suddenly, but soon subsides. It occasionally causes much damage.

Both the Willamette and the Cowelitz are much swollen by the backing

of their waters during the height of the Columbia, and all their lower

grounds submerged. This puts an effectual bar to their prairies being

used for any thing but pasturage, which is fine throughout the year,

excepting in the season of the floods, when the cattle are driven to the

high grounds.

My knowledge of the agriculture of this Territory it will be well to

mention, is derived from visits made to the various settlements, except

Fort Langley and Fort Hall.

The Indians on the different islands in Puget’s Sound and Admiralty

Inlet cultivate potatoes principally, which are extremely fine, and

raised in great abundance, and now constitute a large portion of their

food.[108]

At Nisqually the Hudson’s Bay Company had fine crops of wheat, oats,

peas, potatoes, &c. The wheat, it was supposed, would yield fifteen

bushels to the acre. The farm has been two years under cultivation, and

is principally intended for a grazing and dairy farm. They have now

seventy milch cows, and make butter, &c., to supply their contract with

the Russians.

{299} The Cowelitz farm is also in the western section. The produce of

wheat is good—about twenty bushels to the acre. The ground, however, has

just been brought under cultivation. The Company have here six hundred

acres, which are situated on the Cowelitz river, about thirty miles from

the Columbia, and on the former are erecting a saw and grist mill. The

farm is finely situated, and the harvest of 1841 produced seven thousand

bushels of wheat.[109]

Several Canadians are also established here, who told me that they

succeeded well with but little work. They have erected buildings, live

comfortably, and work small farms of fifty acres.

I was told that the stock on these farms did not thrive so well as

elsewhere. There are no low prairie grounds on the river in this

vicinity, and it is too far for them to resort to the Kamas plains,

a fine grazing country, but a few miles distant. The wolves make sad

depredations with the increase of their flock, if not well watched.

The hilly portion of the country, although its soil in many places is

very good, is yet so heavily timbered as to make it, in the present state

of the country, valueless: this is also the case with many fine portions

of {300} level ground. There are, however, large tracts of fine prairie,

suitable for cultivation, and ready for the plough.

The Willamette valley is supposed to be the finest portion of the

country, though I am of opinion that many parts of the southern portion

of the territory will be found far superior to it. The largest settlement

is in the northern part of the valley, some fifteen miles above the

falls. About sixty families are settled there, the industrious of whom

appear to be thriving. They are composed of American missionaries,

trappers, and Canadians, who were formerly servants of the Hudson’s Bay

Company. All of them appeared to be doing well; but I was on the whole

disappointed, from the reports that had been made to me, not to find the

settlement in a state of greater forwardness, considering the advantages

the missionaries have had.

In comparison with our own country, I would say that the labour necessary

in this territory to acquire wealth or subsistence is in the proportion

of one to three; or in other words, a man must work through the year

three times as much in the United States, to gain the like competency.

The care of stock, which occupies so much time {301} with us, requires no

attention there, and on the increase only a man might find support.

The wheat of this valley yields thirty-five to forty bushels for one

sown, or twenty to thirty bushels to the acre; its quality is superior to

that grown in the United States, and its weight nearly four pounds to the

bushel heavier. The above is the yield of new land; but it is believed

it will greatly exceed this after the third crop, when the land has been

broken up and well tilled.

After passing into the middle section, the climate undergoes a decided

change; in place of the cool and moist atmosphere, one that is dry and

arid is entered, and the crops suffer from drought.

The only wood or bush seen, is the wormwood, (artimesia), and this

only in places. All cultivation has to be more or less carried on by

irrigation.

The country bordering the Columbia, above the Dalles, to the north and

south of the river, is the poorest in the territory, and has no doubt led

many to look upon the middle section as perfectly useless to man. Twenty

or thirty miles on either side of the river are so; but beyond that a

fine grazing country exists, and in very many places there are portions

of it that might be advantageously {302} farmed. On the banks of the

Wallawalla, a small stream emptying into the Columbia, about twenty-five

miles from the Company’s post, a missionary is established who raises

very fine wheat on the low bottoms, by using its waters for the purpose

of irrigation. This is also the case at the mission station at Lapwai,

on the Koos-koos-ke, where fine crops are raised; grains, vegetables and

some fruits thrive remarkably well. In the northern part of this section,

at Chimekaine, there is another missionary station. Near the Spokan,

and at Colville, the country is well adapted for agriculture, and it is

successfully carried on. Colville supplies all the northern posts, and

the missionaries in its vicinity are doing well. The northern part of

this section will be able to supply the whole southern part with wood.

At Colville the changes of temperature are great during the twenty-four

hours, but are not injurious to the small grain. The cultivation of fruit

has been successful.

FISHERIES.—It will be almost impossible to give an idea of the extensive

fisheries in the rivers and on the coast. They all abound in salmon of

the finest flavour, which run twice a year, beginning in May {303} and

October, and appear inexhaustible; the whole population live upon them.

The Columbia produces the largest, and probably affords the greatest

numbers. There are some few of the branches of the Columbia that the

spring fish do not enter, but they are plentifully supplied in the fall.

The great fishery of the Columbia is at the Dalles; but all the rivers

are well supplied. The last one on the northern branch of the Columbia is

near Colville, at the Kettle falls; but salmon are found above this in

the river and its tributaries.

In Frazer’s river the salmon are said to be very numerous, but not large;

they are unable to get above the falls some eighty miles from the sea.

In the rivers and sounds are found several kinds of salmon, salmon-trout,

sturgeon, cod, carp, sole, flounders, ray, perch, herring, lamprey eels,

and a kind of smelt, called “_shrow_,” in great abundance; also large

quantities of shell fish, viz: crabs, clams, oysters, muscles, &c., which

are all used by the natives, and constitute the greater proportion of

their food.

Whales in numbers are found along the coast, and are frequently captured

by the {304} Indians in and at the mouth of the straits of Juan de Fuca.

GAME.—Abundance of game exists, such as elk, deer, antelope, bears,

wolves, foxes, musk-rats, martins, bears and siffleurs, which are eaten

by the Canadians. In the middle section, or that designated as the

rolling prairie, no game is found. The fur-bearing animals are decreasing

in numbers yearly, particularly south of the parallel of 48°; indeed it

is very doubtful whether they are sufficiently numerous to repay the

expense of hunting them.

The Hudson’s Bay Company have almost the exclusive monopoly of this

business. They have decreased, owing to being hunted without regard to

season. This is not, however, the case to the north; there the Company

have been left to exercise their own rule, and prevent the indiscriminate

slaughter of either old or young, out of the proper season.

In the spring and fall, the rivers are literally covered with geese,

ducks, and other water fowl.

In the eastern section, the buffalo abound, and are hunted by the

Oregon Indians, as well as the Blackfeet. Wolves are troublesome to

the settlers, but they are not so {305} numerous as formerly. From the

advantages this country possesses, it bids fair to have an extensive

commerce on advantageous terms with most ports of the Pacific. It is

well calculated to produce the following which, in a few years after its

settlement, would become its staples, viz: furs, salted beef and pork,

fish, grain, flour, wool, hides, tallow, lumber, and perhaps coal. A

ready market for all these is now to be found in the Pacific; and in

return for them sugar, coffee and other tropical productions, may be had

at the Sandwich Islands—advantages that few new countries possess, viz:

the facility of a market, and one that in time must become of immense

extent.

_Manufacturing power._—This country, it is believed, affords as many

sites for water power as any other, and in many places within reach of

navigable waters. The timber of the western section, to the south of 49°,

is not so good as that of the north. This is imputed to the climate being

milder and more changeable. A great difference is found between the north

and south sides of the trees, the one being of a hard and close grain,

while the other is open and spongy.

To the north of the parallel 49°, on Frazer’s River, an abundance of fine

timber {306} for spars of any dimensions is easily obtained.

There will always be a demand for the timber of this country at high

prices throughout the Pacific. The oak is well adapted for ship timber,

and abundance of ash, cedar, cypress and arbor vitæ, may be had for fuel,

fencing, &c.; and, although the southern part of the middle section is

destitute of timber, it may be supplied from the eastern or northern

sections by water carriage.

Intercommunication would at first appear to be difficult between the

different parts of the country, but I take a different view of it.

Stock of all kinds thrive exceedingly well, and they will in consequence

always abound in the territory. The soil affords every advantage for

making good roads, and, in process of time, transportation must become

comparatively cheap.

SETTLEMENTS.—They consist principally of those belonging to the Hudson’s

Bay Company, and where the missionaries have established themselves.

They are as follows: In the western section, Fort Simpson, Fort

McLaughlin, Fort Langley, Nisqually, Cowelitz, Fort George, Vancouver,

and Umpqua; Fort St. James, Barbine, Alexandria, Chilcothin, Kamloop’s,

(on Thompson’s {307} River); Okanagan, Colville and Wallawalla, in

the middle; and in the eastern, Kootanie and Fort Hall. Fort Boise

has been abandoned, as has also Kaima, a missionary settlement on the

Koos-koos-ke.[110]

These are all small settlements, surrounded by palisades, with bastions

at their corners, enclosing the houses and stores of the Company,

sufficient to protect them against the Indians, but in no way to be

considered as forts. A few Indians reside near them, who are dependant

for their food and employment on them.

These forts being situated for the most part near the great fisheries,

are frequented by the Indians, who bring their furs to trade for

blankets, &c., at the same time they come to lay in their yearly supply

of salmon.

Vancouver is the principal depot from which all supplies are furnished,

and to which returns are made.

At Vancouver, the village is separated from the fort, and nearer the

river. In addition to its being the depot of the Hudson’s Bay Company,

there is now attached to it the largest farm of the Puget Sound Company,

the stockholders of which are generally the officers and servants of

the Hudson’s Bay Company. They have now {308} farms in successful

operation at Vancouver, Cowelitz, Nisqually, Colville, Fort Langley,

and the Tualatine plains, about ten miles from Vancouver, all of which

are well stocked, and supply the Russian post at Sitka, under contract,

with a variety of articles raised on them. They have introduced large

herds and flocks into the territory from California, and during our stay

there several thousand head were imported.[111] They are thus doing

incalculable good to the territory, and rendering it more valuable

for future settlers. At the same time, this exerts an influence in

domesticating the Indians, not only by changing their habits, but food,

and attaching them to a locality.

The Indians of the Territory are not a wandering race, as some have

asserted, but change for food only, and each successive season will

generally find them in their old haunts, seeking it.

The settlements established by the missionaries, are at the Willamette

falls and valley, Nisqually and Clatsop, in the western section, and at

the Dalles, Wallawalla, Lapwai, and Chimekaine, on the Spokan, in the

middle.[112]

Those of the middle section are succeeding well; and although little

progress has been made in the conversion of the Indians {309} to

Christianity, yet they have done much good in reforming some of the vices

and teaching some of the useful arts, particularly that of agriculture,

and the construction of houses, which has had the effect, in a measure,

to attach them to the soil. The men now rear and tend their cattle, plant

their potatoes and corn, which latter they exchange for buffalo meat

with those who hunt. The squaws attend to their household, and employ

themselves in knitting and weaving, which they have been taught. They

raise on their small patches, corn, potatoes, melons, &c., irrigating the

land for that purpose. There are many villages of Indians still existing,

though greatly reduced in numbers from former estimates.

_Population._—It is extremely difficult to ascertain, with accuracy,

the amount of population in the Territory. The Indians change to their

different abodes as the fishing seasons come round, which circumstance,

if not attended to, would produce very erroneous results.

The following is believed to be very nearly the truth; if any thing, it

is overrated:

{310} Vancouver or Washington Island 5,000

From the parallel of 50° to 54° north 2,000

Penn’s Cove, Whidby’s Island, mainland (Shatchet tribe) 650

Hood’s canal, (Suquamish and Toando tribe) 500

At and about Okanagan 300

About Colville, Spokane, &c. 450

Willamette falls and valley 275

Pillar rock, Oak Point, and Columbia River 300

Port Discovery 150 }

Fort Townsend 70 } Chalams 420

New Dungeness 200 }

Wallawalla, including the Nez-percés, Snakes, &c. 1,100

Killamouks, north of Umpqua 400

Cape Flattery and Queen Hythe to Point Granville, (Classet tribe) 1,250

Blackfeet tribes that make incursions west of the Rocky Mountains 1,000

Birch Bay 300

Frazer’s River (Neamitch tribe) 500

Chenooks 209

Clatsops 220

At the Cascades 105

At the Dalles 250

Y’Akama River 100

{311} De Chute River 125

Umpquas 400

Roger’s [Rogue’s] River 500

Klamets 300

Shastys 500

Kallapugus 600

Nisqually 200

Chikelis and Puget’s Sound 700

Cowelits or Klakatacks 350

Port Orchard 150

------

19,154

The whole Territory may be estimated as containing twenty thousand. Of

whites, Canadians, and half-breeds, there are between seven hundred and

eight hundred, of whom about one hundred and fifty are Americans; the

rest are settlers, and the officers and servants of the Company. The

Indians are rapidly decreasing in all parts of the country; the causes

are supposed to be their rude treatment of diseases, and the dissipated

lives they lead.

The white American population, as far as I have been able to judge of

them, are orderly, and generally industrious; although they are, with

the exception of the missionaries, men who have led, for the most part,

dissolute lives.

{312} The absence of spirits, as long as it continues, will probably

secure them from excesses. Very much to their credit, they have abandoned

the use of spirituous liquors, by consent of the whole community.

I cannot but view this Territory as peculiarly liable to the vice of

drunkenness. The ease with which the wants of man are obtained, the

little labour required, and consequent opportunities for idleness,

will render it so. The settlers of the Willamette valley have, with

a praiseworthy spirit, engaged to prevent the establishment of

distilleries, and there are, as yet, no places where spirits can be

bought (to my knowledge) in the Territory.

It is highly creditable to the Hudson’s Bay Company, that on a vessel

arriving on the coast with some spirits on board, in order to prevent

its introduction, they have purchased the whole cargo, while, at the

same time, their storehouses were filled with rum. They have, with

praiseworthy zeal, interdicted its being an article of trade, being well

satisfied that it is contrary to their interest, and demoralizing in

its effects on all the tribes and people with whom they have to deal,

rendering them difficult to manage, quarrelsome among themselves, {313}

and preventing their success in hunting. Endeavours have likewise been

made by the officers of the Company to induce the Russians, on their

side, to adopt this example, and do away with it as an article of trade,

but hitherto without success.[113] This no doubt has been one of the

causes affecting the decrease of tribes, as it was formerly almost the

only article of trade.

In the event of the territory being taken possession of, the necessity

of circumscribing the use and sale of spirits cannot be too strongly

insisted upon by legal enactment, both to preserve order and avoid

expense.

As far as the Indians have come under my notice, they are an inoffensive

race, except those in the northern parts. The depredations committed

on the whites may be traced to injuries received, or arise from

superstitious motives.

MISSIONARIES.—Little has yet been effected by them in christianizing the

natives. They are principally engaged in the cultivation of the mission

farms, and in the care of their own stock, in order to obtain flocks

and herds for themselves, most of them having selected lands. As far as

my personal observations went, in the part of the {314} country where

the missionaries reside, there are very few Indians to engage their

attention; and they seemed more occupied with the settlement of the

country and in agricultural pursuits than in missionary labours.

When there, I made particular inquiries whether laws were necessary for

their protection, and I feel fully satisfied that they require none at

present, besides the moral code it is their duty to inculcate.

The Catholic portion of the settlement, who form a large majority, are

kept under good control by their priest, who is disposed to act in unison

with the other missionaries in the proper punishment of all bad conduct.

I cannot close this report without doing justice to the officers of the

Hudson’s Bay Company’s service for their kind and gentlemanly treatment

to us while in the territory, and bearing testimony that, during all my

intercourse, and in their dealings with others, they seemed to be guided

by one rule of conduct highly creditable to them, not only as business

men, but gentlemen.

They afforded us every assistance that was in their power both in

supplies and in {315} means to accomplish our duties. There are many

persons in the country who bear testimony to the aid and kindness

rendered them in their outset; and of their hospitality it is needless to

speak, for it has become proverbial.

To conclude, few portions of the globe, in my opinion, are to be found so

rich in soil, so diversified in surface, or so capable of being rendered

the happy abode of an industrious and civilized community. For beauty of

scenery and salubrity of climate, it is not surpassed. It is peculiarly

adapted for an agricultural and pastoral people, and no portion of the

world beyond the tropics can be found that will yield so readily with

moderate labour, to the wants of man.

THE END

DE SMET’S OREGON MISSIONS AND TRAVELS OVER THE

ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 1845-1846

Reprint of New York edition, 1847

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847, by

EDWARD DUNIGAN,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United

States, for the Southern District of New York.

TO THE RIGHT REVEREND DR. HUGHES, BISHOP OF NEW YORK.

MONSEIGNEUR,

From the distant solitudes of the Rocky Mountains, in the midst of my

missions among the Children of the Forests, I had the honor of addressing

to you most of the letters contained in this Volume. I may, therefore, I

feel, take the liberty of inscribing it to you, not only as a token of

veneration for the distinguished qualities and eminent abilities which

mark your character and add lustre to your dignity, but, likewise, as a

tribute of personal friendship and esteem, with which I am allowed to

subscribe myself,

Monseigneur,

Your humble servant,

P. J. DE SMET, S. J.

New-York, April 19th, 1847.

PREFACE

The contents of the present volume, from the pen of the celebrated

Missionary of the Rocky Mountains, will be found, by the reader, to be

fraught with extraordinary interest. The manners and customs of the

North American Indians—their traditions, their superstitions, their

docility in admitting the maxims of the gospel, and the edifying lives

of thousands who have received the grace of baptism and instruction, are

described with a freshness of coloring, and an exactness of detail, that

will render them invaluable not only to our own times, but, especially,

to posterity. He travels through those vast and unexplored deserts, not

merely as a missionary, filled with the zeal which characterized the

apostles of the primitive Society to which he belongs, but with the eye

of a poet, and an imagination glowing with a bright yet calm enthusiasm.

Hence the exquisite descriptions of scenery, of incidents, of events;

descriptions which breathe the spirit of a mind imbued with the loftiest

conceptions of nature, and chastened with the sacred influences of faith.

{xii} The reverend author having, before his recent departure for his

native land, left the supervision of this work to my care, I feel bound,

in justice to his modesty, to state, that the Introduction, taken from

the Catholic Almanac, is not from his pen: and he is not, therefore,

accountable for the epithets of praise (so eminently deserved, and yet so

repugnant to his humility), which, through it, are occasionally coupled

with his name.

The lithographic sketches that accompany this Volume, are copied from the

original drawings of the Reverend Father Point, S. J.;[114] drawings of

such exquisite perfection, that they would do honor to any master: and

the more admirable, from the circumstance of their having been executed

with the pen, in the midst of the privations and difficulties of his

remote and arduous missions.

In conclusion, I cannot but express the pleasure, instruction, and

edification, I have derived from the careful perusal of these beautiful

letters: and I feel convinced that they will prove, to all who read them,

a source of interest and delight which few volumes of the same dimensions

can open to the intellectual and Christian reader.

C. C. P.

New-York, August 1st, 1847.

[Illustration: OREGON Territory, 1846.]

OREGON MISSIONS

AN OUTLINE SKETCH OF OREGON TERRITORY AND ITS MISSIONS

The political discussion, which has been going on for years between

the British government and that of the United States, in regard to the

boundary which defines their respective portions of the Oregon territory,

has turned upon this distant region a large share of public attention,

and has won for it an interest which will increase in proportion to the

advances of civilization and commerce within its borders. But it becomes

an object of much deeper interest in the eyes of the philanthropist and

Christian, when we look to the efforts which have been made, and which

are still continued, in order to diffuse the blessings of religious truth

among {14} its benighted inhabitants. To the Catholic, especially, does

this remote country present the most pleasing scenes for contemplation,

and by this reason we have been induced to lay before the reader, a brief

account of its discovery and settlement, and of the missions undertaken

for the spiritual welfare of its inhabitants.

Oregon territory is that important part of North America which extends

from the 42d to the 50th degree of N. latitude, and from the Rocky

Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.[115] It is bounded on the north by the

Russian possessions, and on the south by California; forming a kind of

parallelogram, about seven hundred and fifty miles in length and five

hundred in breadth, and containing 375,000 square miles.

There appears no reason to doubt of the Spaniards having been the first

to visit this country.[116] The documents we possess, and the tradition

of the natives, concur to render this opinion incontestible. According

to them a vessel made its appearance south of the Columbia river before

1792, and there is still living among them a woman whose father was one

of the crew attached to the vessel, and whose mother belonged to the

tribe of the Kilamukes.[117] When we add to this that crucifixes have

been {15} found in their hands transmitted to them from their ancestors,

that the island of Vancouver still exhibits the ruins of colonial

habitations, that the strait which separates it from the mainland bears

the name of _Juan Fuca_, and that the country itself is contiguous to

California, where the Spanish missionaries had penetrated nearly two

hundred years before, we cannot but look upon the Spaniards as the

discoverers of Oregon.

After the voyage of Captain Cook in 1790, by which it was ascertained

that the sea along the N. W. coast of America abounded in otters, this

region was visited by vessels from almost every part of the world. The

people of the United States were not behind others in enterprise; in

1792, Captain Gray sailed up an unknown river of that country, to the

distance of eighteen miles, and the stream has since retained the name

of _Columbia_, from the ship which he commanded. In leaving the river,

Captain Gray passed the vessel of Captain Vancouver, who also navigated

the Columbia river about one hundred miles, to the point which bears his

name. In 1793 the country was visited by Sir Alexander McKenzie, after

discovering the river which retains his name.[118] In 1804, Messrs. {16}

Lewis and Clark were commissioned by the United States to explore the

sources of the Columbia, and they descended the river as far as Gray’s

Bay. A few years after, in 1810, Mr. Astor fitted out two expeditions

to Oregon, for the purpose of securing the interest of the fur-trade in

those parts. The party that had embarked by water arrived first, and

erected a fort called Astoria, about nine miles from the mouth of the

Columbia.[119] The company of the North-West (English) also considered

the fur-trade of Oregon as well worthy of attention, and they immediately

despatched an agent by land for the purpose of securing it; but he

arrived at Astoria several months after the first expeditions from the

United States.

During the war of 1812, a British vessel sailed to the Columbia, in order

to take possession of Astoria and its treasure; but the captain was

cruelly disappointed in discovering that the place was already held by an

agent of the North-West Company, who had purchased it in anticipation of

the future war with the United States.[120] The Canadians who had settled

there under its original owners, were employed by the new proprietors,

and their numbers increased in proportion as the Company extended its

{17} operations. In this way the country was visited in every direction,

and many of the Indian tribes heard from them of the Catholic religion

and the worship of the true God. In 1821, the North-West and Hudson

Bay Companies united their interests, and gave a new impulse to the

fur-trade. Mr. John McLaughlin, who went to Oregon in 1824, was chiefly

instrumental in promoting the prosperity of the country.[121] He added to

the business posts, and gave employment to a greater number of Canadians

and Iroquois. They commenced at the same time the cultivation of wheat.

One of the settlers having undertaken, in 1829, to till the soil in the

valley of Willamette, his example was soon followed by others, and the

colony became so numerous that in 1834 an application was made to Dr.

Provencher, Vicar Apostolic of Hudson Bay, to procure a clergyman for

the service of the people.[122] The colonists, however, did not succeed

in obtaining a favorable answer to their petition, until the following

year, when two clergymen were appointed for the mission; but, owing to

the arrival of a Methodist preacher and of an Episcopalian minister in

Oregon, the former in 1834, and the latter in 1837,[123] the departure

of the Catholic clergymen was considerably {18} delayed. Rev. Mr. Demers

went as far as the Red River in 1837, and arrangements having been made

for himself and fellow-laborer to pass into Oregon the following year,

Rev. F. N. Blanchet left Canada at the appointed time, and joined his

companion at Red River, whence they both started on the 10th of July, and

after a perilous journey of between four and five thousand miles, and

the loss of twelve of their fellow-travellers in the rapids of Columbia

River, they arrived at Fort Vancouver, the 24th of November, of the same

year.[124] On their route the two missionaries were treated with the

utmost courtesy by the traders whom they met, and at Vancouver they were

received with every demonstration of respect by James Douglas, Esq., who

commanded that post during the absence of Mr. McLaughlin in England.[125]

On seeing the missionaries at length among them, the Canadians wept for

joy, and the savages assembled from a distance of one hundred miles, to

behold the _black gowns_ of whom so much had been said.

Before we follow the ministers of God in their apostolic labors, we

shall allude as briefly as possible to the aspect of the country, to the

difficulties and dangers it presents to the missionary, {19} and to its

commercial and agricultural resources.

We shall observe, in the first place, that the Columbia River stretches

from its mouth about 290 miles to the east, as far as Fort Walla Walla;

it then takes a northerly direction 150 miles, to Fort Okanagan;

thence it extends 170 miles easterly to Colville. Fort Vancouver, the

principal post in Oregon, is situated in 45° 36′ N. latitude, about one

hundred miles from the mouth of the Columbia, and on its western bank,

in ascending the river. The Willamette is a tributary of the Columbia,

falling into it four miles below Vancouver on the opposite side. Twenty

miles up the stream is a cascade of about twenty-five feet, and thirty

miles further is a Canadian establishment, which in 1838 numbered

twenty-six Catholic families, besides the settlers from the United

States. The residence of the Methodist minister was ten miles higher

up.[126] The River Cowlitz falls into the Columbia thirty miles below

Vancouver, on the same side. Forty-five miles from its mouth is seen the

establishment which bears its name. Four Catholic families resided here

on the arrival of the missionaries. From this place to {20} Nesqualy at

the southern extremity of Puget Sound, the distance is nearly seventy

miles, and it is equally far from the latter point to the island of

Whitby.[127] Two days’ journey further north will bring you to the River

Frazer, on which Fort Langley is situated.[128] This river falls into

Puget Sound or the Gulf of Georgia.

The mission of St. Mary’s among the Flatheads is ten days’ journey from

Colville, towards the south-east, and about five hundred miles from

Vancouver.[129] The most distant to which Mr. Demers has penetrated

as yet, is Bear Lake in New Caledonia,[130] seven hundred miles from

Vancouver. The reader may form some idea of the almost insurmountable

difficulties to be encountered by our two missionaries, in visiting

their various posts, so widely distant from each other, especially in a

country overrun in every direction by lofty mountains. These mountains

generally extend from north to south. From the Valley of Willamette are

seen three elevated peaks, which have the form of a cone, and are covered

with perpetual snow; hence called _Snowy Mountains_. One of them Mt. St.

Helena, stands opposite Cowlitz to the east, and for some years past has

been noted for its volcanic {21} eruptions.[131] Besides the rivers we

have mentioned, there are several others, the principal of which are the

Clamet, Umpqua, and the Chikeeles.[132] The Columbia is navigable as far

as the cascade, fifty-four miles above Vancouver.

The immense valleys in Oregon Territory, covered with extensive and

fertile prairies, follow the course of the mountains from north to

south, and are crossed in different directions by rivulets bordered

with trees. They easily yield to the plough, and though the first crop

is not very abundant, the second is generally sufficient to repay the

labor of tillage. The soil is for the most part fertile, particularly in

the south. Every kind of grain is successfully cultivated near Cowlitz,

Vancouver, in the Willamette Valley, and further south. The same may be

said of the neighborhood of Fort Walla Walla, Colville; the mission of

St. Mary’s; the mission of the Sacred Heart, of St. Ignatius, and St.

Francis Borgia, among the Pend-d’oreilles; of St. Francis Regis, in the

valley to Colville; of the Assumption and the Holy Heart of Mary, {22}

amongst the Skalsi. Other districts that are not tillable, afford an

excellent pasture for cattle.

As to the climate of Oregon, it is not so severe as might be supposed

from its elevated latitude. The snow never falls to a greater depth than

three or four inches in the lower portions of the territory, and seldom

remains long on the ground. When the snows, after having accumulated

on the mountains and their vicinity in consequence of extreme cold,

begin to melt, and the heavy rains supervene, the plains around are

covered with water, and sometimes considerable damage is caused by the

inundation. The rains commence in October, and continue until March with

little interruption. The very cold weather lasts only for a few weeks.

In the month of June the Columbia always overflows its banks, from the

thaw which takes place on the mountains, and every four or five years

its waters rise to an extraordinary height, and do much injury in the

vicinity of Vancouver.

Until the year 1830, the Territory of Oregon was thickly settled by

numerous tribes of Indians; but at that period the country bordering on

the Columbia was visited by a fatal scourge which carried off nearly

two-thirds of {23} the inhabitants.[133] It showed itself in the form

of an infectious fever, which threw the individual into a state of

tremor, and produced such a burning heat throughout the body, that the

patient would sometimes cast himself into the water to obtain relief. The

population of entire villages was cut off by this terrible pestilence.

Other villages were burnt in order to arrest the infection which would

have arisen from the pile of dead bodies that were left unburied. During

this fearful visitation, which attacked the colonists as well as the

natives, Dr. McLaughlin displayed the most heroic philanthropy, in his

laborious attention to the sick and dying. The Indians superstitiously

attributed this scourge to a quarrel between some agents of the Hudson

Bay Company and an American captain, which led the latter to throw a

species of charm into the river by way of revenge. The fever, however,

made its appearance annually, though in a less malignant form; and the

inhabitants have discovered both its preventive and its remedy. The

smallpox is the principal disease that alarms the natives; they are in

continual dread of it, and imagining that they have a short time to live,

they no longer build the large and convenient cabins to {24} which they

were formerly accustomed. Notwithstanding the ravages above mentioned,

the population of Oregon amounts to nearly 110,000 souls, residing

chiefly in the north. This part of the country, fortunately, escaped the

diseases which decimated the inhabitants of Willamette and the Columbia,

and still rages from time to time in the south.

The tribes of this territory differ much in character and personal

appearance. The savages who frequent the coast, especially towards the

north, are of a much more barbarous and ferocious temperament than those

of the interior; nor are they less dissimilar in their manners, customs,

language, and external features. The tribes and languages are almost as

numerous as the localities. From twenty-five to thirty different idioms

have been distinguished among them, a circumstance which increases in

no small degree the labors of the missionary. In the interior of the

country, the natives are of a mild and sociable disposition, though proud

and vindictive; intelligent though inclined to indolence. Their belief

in the immortality of the soul consists in admitting a future existence,

happy or unhappy, that is, a state of plenty or want, according to

the merits or demerits of {25} every individual. The morals of this

savage race can scarcely be termed corrupt, considering their very

limited means of “_enlightenment_.” They have distinct ideas of right

and wrong, and recognize many leading principles of the natural law.

Theft, adultery, homicide, and lying, are condemned as criminal, and if

polygamy is tolerated, it is not approved; it is principally confined to

the chiefs, by way of maintaining peace with the neighboring nations.

Laxity of morals is far short of what might be supposed inevitable, in

their rude and uneducated state. Modesty, indeed, would require more;

but its rules are for the most part respected. But little intercourse

is carried on among young persons of different sex, and even in regard

to matrimonial unions, the engagement is arranged by the parents of the

parties. When a man of comfortable means takes to himself a wife, he is

obliged to compensate the parents of the latter by considerable presents.

But upon the death of the woman, these presents may be reclaimed. If in

consequence of harsh treatment she puts an end to her existence, the

circumstance reflects disgrace upon the husband, who is compelled, in

this case, to propitiate her parents by additional gifts.

{26} Most of the work among these savages is performed by slaves, who are

well treated, except in case of old age or other inability, when they are

left to perish of want. Besides those who are born in this unhappy state,

there are others who become so, by the fortunes of war. All prisoners are

considered slaves by their conquerors, though, in general, only their

children experience this hard lot. Wars are sometimes engaged in for

the express purpose of acquiring slaves, which is considered a great

advantage among the savages. The white population have little to fear

from their attacks, except on the northern coast, where life is far from

being safe, and where the natives, in some cases anthropophagi, do not

hesitate to feast upon the flesh of their prisoners.

Throughout the whole country, the habitations of the Indians are rather

huts than houses, from fifteen to twenty-five feet long, proportionably

wide, and verging into a conical form. Cross pieces of wood are

suspended in the interior for the purpose of drying their salmon and

other articles of food. Fire is kindled on the ground in the centre of

the cabin, the smoke escaping through the roof above. The dress of the

Indians is not more _recherché_ than their {27} dwellings. Formerly they

clothed themselves very comfortably and neatly, with the furs which

they possessed, but since the trade in skins has become so extensive,

the natives of Oregon are much worse provided for in this respect, and

the poor can scarcely protect themselves against the severity of the

seasons. To this circumstance, in part, is attributed the decrease of the

population, which has been observed within a few years past. Hunting and

fishing are the resources on which the Indian depends for subsistence.

His principal food is salmon, sturgeon, and other kinds of fish, with the

ducks, wild turkeys and hares, in which the country abounds. The fruits

of spontaneous growth, and particularly the root of the _cammas_, also

afford them nourishment.[134]

Among the aborigines of Oregon there is no trace of any religious

worship. They have a belief which consists in certain obscure

traditions;[135] but no external forms of religion are visible among

them. The juggler exercises his {28} profession, though it is almost

universally done in behalf of the sick, for the purpose of curing them.

If he fail in his attempt, he is suspected of having used some evil

influence, and is made to pay the forfeit of his supposed offence. Though

nearly all these tribes, of whom we are speaking, possess no particular

form of worship, they are naturally predisposed in favor of the Christian

religion, especially those who live in the interior. We shall find the

most ample evidence of this in the sequel of our narrative.

At the period when the two Catholic missionaries arrived in Oregon

territory, the Hudson Bay Company possessed from ten to twelve

establishments for the fur-trade, in each of which there was a certain

number of Canadians professing our holy faith, and in addition to these

there were twenty-six Catholic families at Willamette, and four at

Cowlitz. It is easy to imagine to how many dangers they had been exposed

of losing their faith, deprived as they were of religious instruction and

of every external incentive to the practice of piety, and surrounded by

individuals who were not inactive in their efforts to withdraw them from

the fold of Catholicity.

The Methodist missionaries had already formed {29} two establishments,

one in the Willamette, where they had a school, and another about

fifty miles from the cascade. An Anglican minister, who resided at

Vancouver two years, left it before the arrival of the Catholic clergy.

The Presbyterians had a missionary post at Walla Walla, and among the

Nez-percés, and in 1839 they established a third station on the river

Spokane, a few days’ journey south of Colville.[136] In 1840, the Rev.

Mr. Lee brought with him fellow-laborers for the vineyard, with their

wives and children, and a number of husbandmen and mechanics. It was a

real colony. The preachers stationed themselves at the most important

posts, as at Willamette Falls, the Clatsops below fort George, and

Nisqualy, and thence visited the other settlements: they even penetrated

as far as Whitby.[137] Nothing short of the most arduous toil and

constant vigilance on the part of the Catholic clergymen, could have

withdrawn so many individuals from the danger of spiritual seduction. Our

two missionaries were indefatigable in their exertions, almost always

journeying from one post to another, to begin or to consolidate the good

work they had in view.

{30} Vancouver was the first place that experienced the happy influence

of their apostolical zeal. Many of the settlers had lost sight of

the religious principles they had imbibed in their youth, and their

wives were either pagans in belief, or, if baptized, but superficially

acquainted with the nature of that holy rite. In this state of things,

which had given rise to many disorders, the missionaries found it

necessary to spend several months at Vancouver, and to labor with united

energies in instructing the people, baptizing children, performing

marriages, and inspiring a greater respect for the Christian virtues.

With this view they remained at Vancouver until the month of January,

1839, when Mr. Blanchet visited the Canadians at Willamette. It would be

difficult to describe the joy which his arrival awakened among them. They

had already erected a chapel seventy feet in length, which was dedicated

by the missionary under the invocation of St. Paul. His ministry at

this place was attended with the most signal success. Men, women and

children, all seemed to appreciate the presence of one who had come, as

a messenger from Heaven, to diffuse among them the {31} consolations of

religion. Before his departure, Mr. Blanchet rehabilitated a good number

of marriages, and baptized seventy-four persons. In April he started

for Cowlitz, where he remained until the latter end of June. Here also

his efforts were most successful. He had the happiness of instructing

twelve savages of Puget sound, who had come from a distance of nearly one

hundred miles in order to see and hear him. It was on this occasion he

conceived the idea of the Catholic _ladder_, a form of instruction which

represents on paper the various truths and mysteries of religion in their

chronological order, and which has proved vastly beneficial in imparting

catechetical instruction among the natives of Oregon.[138] These twelve

Indians having remained at Cowlitz long enough to acquire a knowledge of

the principal mysteries of our faith, and to understand the use of the

_ladder_ which Mr. Blanchet gave them, set about instructing their tribe

as soon as they returned home, and not without considerable success; for

Mr. Blanchet, the following year, met, in the vicinity of Whitby island,

with several Indians who had never seen a priest, and yet were acquainted

with the sign of the cross, and knew several pious canticles.

{32} While Mr. Blanchet was at Cowlitz,[139] his fellow-laborer visited

Nisqualy, where he found the savages in the best dispositions. Having but

a short time, however, to pass among them, he merely laid the foundation

of a more important mission, and returned to Vancouver by the month

of June,—the time when the agents from New Caledonia, Upper Columbia,

and other different posts assemble there to deposite their furs. After

spending a month at Vancouver, availing himself of the favorable

opportunity for instruction which the concourse of visitors afforded,

he set out for Upper Columbia, where he visited Walla Walla, Okanagan

and Colville,[140] baptizing all the children that were brought to him

in the course of his journey. He spent three months in this excursion,

during which Mr. Blanchet attended to the wants of the faithful at

Vancouver, Willamette, and {33} Cowlitz. Though these stations afforded

ample occupation for a missionary, Mr. B. paid another visit to Nisqualy,

where he was again met by a considerable number of savages from Puget

sound, who hastened to Nisqualy as soon as they heard of his arrival, and

listened with joy and profit to the words of life.

In October the two missionaries met at Vancouver, which was their place

of residence through the courtesy of James Douglas, Esq., and on the

10th of the same month they again separated, Mr. Blanchet starting for

Willamette, and Mr. Demers for Cowlitz. Their object was to spend the

winter months at these points in the further instruction of their flocks.

During the first year they baptized three hundred and nine persons. The

following spring Mr. Demers visited the Chinouks, a tribe living below

fort George.[141] From the Chinouks he repaired to Vancouver, to meet the

concourse of traders who assemble there in the month of June, after which

he set out for his stations at Walla Walla, Okanagan and Colville, as he

had done the preceding year. About this time Father De Smet, S. J., was

sent on a visit by his superior to the Flathead Indians, who had implored

this favor by repeated deputations from their country to {34} the bishop

of St. Louis. He found, to his great surprise, that Oregon already

possessed two Catholic missionaries; he wrote to Mr. Demers, informing

him that he would return to St. Louis, according to the order of his

superiors, to procure further aid for the promising missions of the Rocky

Mountains.

Mr. Blanchet having visited the people at Nisqualy, was soon called away

by a special embassy from the Indians of Puget sound, who requested

his ministry. It was on this occasion at Whitby that he met with the

savages already acquainted with certain practices of the Catholic church,

though they had never seen a missionary.[142] His labors among the

Indians at this place were most consoling. A large cross was erected

as a rallying-point, many children were {35} baptized, and two tribes,

who were at war with each other, were reconciled. The Catholic _ladder_

was passed from one nation to another, and all prayed to be instructed

still more fully in the truths of salvation. After baptizing one hundred

and four persons, the missionaries returned to Vancouver, and thence

repaired to their respective stations during the winter season. A wide

field was here opened to their zeal, not only among the catechumens who

solicited baptism, but among the settlers, who were anxious to repair

by their fervor the neglect of former years. In the summer of 1840 the

Columbia was visited by Captain Belcher, from England, for the purpose of

surveying the river.[143]

In the spring of 1841, Mr. Demers, after giving the usual mission at

Vancouver, went to Nisqualy, and with the aid of Indian guides penetrated

as far as Fort Langley on the river Fraser. Here he was surrounded by an

immense number of savages, to whom he announced without delay the tidings

of salvation. His appeal was not in vain, all permitting their children

to be baptized, and soliciting the residence of a priest among them.

Seven hundred children received, on this occasion, the sacrament {36} of

regeneration. While Mr. Demers was thus occupied in gathering the first

fruits of the mission at Puget sound, Mr. Blanchet was equally engaged at

Willamette, Vancouver, Cowlitz and the Cascades. At the last mentioned

place several children were baptized, and a number of adults instructed

in the faith.

During the year 1841, Oregon Territory was visited by two expeditions,

one from England under Sir George Simpson,[144] and the other from the U.

States, under the command of Captain Wilkes.[145]

{37} Faithful to his word, Father De Smet returned among the Flatheads in

the autumn of the same year, accompanied by the Rev. Fathers Point and

Mengarini, and three lay brothers.[146] The mission of St. Mary’s was at

once established, and the most abundant harvest collected, (see Indian

sketches).[147] About the same time Messrs. Blanchet and Demers retired

to their usual winter stations, where they had the pleasure of learning

that two other missionaries, Messrs. John B. Bolduc and Ant. Langlois

had {38} set out from Canada to join them in their labor of love.[148]

During the winter, Mr. Blanchet narrowly escaped a watery grave, in

ascending the river Willamette on a visit to his friend Mr. Demers. In

the spring of 1842, Father De Smet unexpectedly made his appearance at

Vancouver, after a providential escape from shipwreck, in descending

the river Columbia. Fortunately he had left the barge in which his

fellow-travellers and his baggage were; and by this means he was saved,

while his effects and five of his companions were swallowed up in the

rapids.[149]

The three missionaries met together, first at Willamette, and then at

Vancouver, and formed their plans for a concert of action in the great

work of evangelizing the natives of Oregon. The Indians of New Caledonia

had repeatedly asked for Catholic missionaries, and Mr. Demers started

for that country. Having embarked in a boat of the Hudson Bay Company,

he reached his destination after a travel of two months. The journey,

though fatiguing, was most consoling in its results. He was received by

the savages with open arms, and it is impossible to describe the ardor

with which they drank in the words of heavenly life as they fell from his

{39} lips. The Indians in this region appear to be no less predisposed to

receive the truths of Christianity than the Flatheads, who have evinced a

peculiar propensity to virtue.

While Mr. Demers was so successfully occupied among the tribes of New

Caledonia, Father De Smet was bending his steps back to St. Louis,

to procure additional laborers for the mission. Two clergymen, the

Rev. Fathers De Vos and Hoeken,[150] with three lay brothers, were

immediately sent out, but they did not reach their destination until

the autumn of 1843. Mr. De Smet was at the same time despatched to

Europe, to make further provision for the conversion and civilization of

Oregon. In this way Mr. Blanchet found himself charged with the care of

all the stations, except those among the Flatheads, and upper Indians

of the Columbia, and was continually moving about to meet the wants of

the various missions. Fortunately Messrs. Langlois and Bolduc, after

a journey of one year since their departure from Canada, arrived at

Willamette on the 16th of September. They at once set themselves to work,

Mr. Langlois remaining at Willamette during the winter season, while Mr.

Blanchet was at Vancouver, {40} and Mr. Bolduc at Cowlitz. In the spring

of 1843, Mr. Demers returned from New Caledonia, much exhausted by the

labors he had undergone, and the privations he had suffered during his

journey; but these causes were not capable of diminishing his missionary

ardor. His fellow-laborers and himself found ample occupation, during

the summer months, at the three principal stations, and in fact such

was the call upon their services at these posts, and in the vicinity,

in consequence of the increasing numbers of their flock, that they were

unable to visit the more distant points, and were obliged to defer to a

later period the execution of their design, for some time contemplated,

of forming a mission at Whitby.

In addition to his numerous cares, Mr. Blanchet undertook the erection of

an academy at Willamette, for which funds had been given by a Mr. Joseph

Laroque of Paris, and which is called St. Joseph’s College, in honor of

that gentleman.

A teacher of French, and another of the English language, were employed

in the institution, which was opened in the month of October, and

numbered from the very commencement {41} twenty-eight boarders. Rev. Mr.

Langlois, who attended to the Willamette mission, also superintended the

Academy.

About a year after, a public examination of the students was held, and

the inhabitants who attended, appeared much gratified at the progress

made by the pupils in the study of French and English, in writing,

arithmetic, and other branches.

In the spring of 1844, Mr. Blanchet withdrew Mr. Demers from Cowlitz

and placed him at the _Falls_ or Oregon City, an important post, which

contained already sixty houses. The parsonage where Mr. Demers resided

could not be rented at less than ten dollars a month. Mr. Bolduc remained

at Cowlitz, and Mr. Blanchet went from one station to another, to

ascertain and provide for the wants of the different localities.

During the vacation of the college Mr. Blanchet remained at Willamette,

to replace Mr. Langlois, who had set out upon a visit to the Jesuit

fathers, among the Flatheads, with a view to obtain some assistance for

his school. Mr. Demers was at this time at Vancouver. The missionaries,

not aware of Mr. De Smet’s voyage to Europe, had been long and anxiously

awaiting his arrival in Oregon. About fifteen {42} months had elapsed

since his departure for the east, and the vessel of the Hudson Bay

Company, which had reached Oregon in the spring, brought no intelligence

respecting his movements. Under these circumstances, Mr. Blanchet

and his companions began to be alarmed, when, in the midst of their

apprehensions, the indefatigable Jesuit made his appearance suddenly at

Vancouver, about the beginning of August. On the 9th of January, he had

left Belgium, with four priests, Rev. Fathers Accolti, Nobili, Ravalli,

and Vercruysse and Huybrechts a lay brother,[151] and six religious

ladies of Notre Dame of Namur, and after doubling Cape Horn the vessel

touched at Valparaiso and Lima, for the purpose of obtaining some

information regarding the entrance of the Columbia River and to leave a

part of a cargo.[152] Not having received a satisfactory answer to their

inquiries, they set out again for the north, and continued their course

until they found themselves in latitude 46° 19′, and longitude 123° 54′.

Here the captain passed three days in discovering the mouth of the river,

which was at length made known to him by the sight of a vessel going out.

Though it was growing dark, he immediately despatched an officer towards

the sail to make inquiries concerning {43} the mode of entering the

Columbia; but he did not return with the required information, and the

captain, being thrown upon his own resources, at once made preparations

for entering the river, and proceeded from east to west through a channel

altogether unknown to him. It was the 31st of July, feast of St. Ignatius

of Loyola. As he advanced, by the soundings, he found that the vessel was

in very shallow water, having only two and a half feet under her keel,

although at a considerable distance from the mainland. At this moment,

the safety of the vessel and crew seemed hopeless; but while shipwreck

was staring them in the face, they fell unexpectedly into deeper

soundings; the bar was crossed, and two hours after, the vessel anchored

off Fort George or _Astoria_.[153] {44} Mr. Blanchet and the people

of Willamette no sooner heard of Mr. De Smet’s arrival at Vancouver

than they hastened to meet him. The good father and the colony that

accompanied him, were received with every demonstration of civility by

Dr. McLaughlin and Mr. Douglas, who also tendered one of the company’s

boats to convey the missionary band to Willamette. Their journey to this

place was a real triumph, such was the joy and excitement produced among

the inhabitants by the accession of these new laborers to the vineyard.

The sisters [of] _Notre Dame_ soon occupied the building which had been

undertaken for their purposes, and in the month of December it was opened

as a boarding academy for girls. Father De Smet, about the same time,

directed his course towards the Flatheads, Father Devos having come to

supply his place in the south. The labors of the Jesuits among the tribes

of the north have been crowned with the most abundant success. In 1842,

a new mission, the Sacred Heart of Jesus, was founded about eight days’

journey south of St. Mary’s.[154] In addition to the increased resources

{45} which the mission received in 1844, we must mention also the arrival

of two other Jesuit Fathers and one lay brother, who went to Oregon, by

the way of the Rocky Mountains.[155]

Such was the state of the country, and such the progress of religion

among the natives and colonists, when Mr. Blanchet received letters from

Canada in November last, informing him that, upon the application of

the Fifth Provincial Council of Baltimore, he had been appointed Vicar

Apostolic of Oregon Territory, and that bulls to that effect, dated

the 1st December, 1843, had been despatched to him. He was immediately

solicited by his fellow-laborers to accept the charge, and at first

determined to go to California for the ceremony of consecration. But

desirous of obtaining a further reinforcement for his extensive mission,

he concluded to visit Europe. Having appointed Rev. Mr. Demers his _Vicar

General_ and _administrator_ of the Vicariate during his absence, he

left Vancouver towards the end of November, arrived on the 22d of May at

London, and thence embarking for this country the 4th of June, in the

Cunard line of steamers, he reached Canada on the 24th of the same month,

after a journey of more than 22,000 miles. Mr. Blanchet recently received

{46} the episcopal consecration in Montreal, and has gone to Europe on

business connected with his mission. Six thousand savages brought within

the fold of the Christian church, form, indeed, but a small number among

the 100,000 who inhabit that immense region; but this success, achieved

in a few years, by a missionary force so limited, and compelled to

grapple with so many difficulties, is a bright and consoling evidence of

what can and will be accomplished by those who have been commissioned to

“go and teach all nations.”

On the 1st of December, 1843, his Holiness, Gregory XVI, erected Oregon

Territory into an Apostolic Vicariate, and the Rev. Francis N. Blanchet,

was appointed to the episcopal charge of this extensive mission. His

consecration took place in Montreal, C. E., about the middle of the

year 1844. He immediately repaired to Europe, with a view to increase

the resources of his mission, and to devise means for promoting the

interests of religion in Oregon. At his request, and by a recent act of

the Holy See, the Territory of Oregon, from the 42d to the 54th degree

of N. latitude, has been divided into eight diocesses, viz: Oregon City,

Nesqualy, Vancouver’s Island, and Princess Charlotte, {47} on the coast,

and Walla Walla, Fort Hall, Colville, and New Caledonia, in the interior.

These diocesses form an ecclesiastical province, of which Oregon City is

the Metropolitan See. For the present, only three bishops are appointed

for the province, viz: those of Oregon City, Walla Walla, and Vancouver’s

Island, who will have a provisional jurisdiction over the other

diocesses. The episcopal districts of _Vancouver’s Island_, _Princess

Charlotte_, and _New Caledonia_, are not included within the territory

belonging to the United States. The Rt. Rev. Modest Demers, one of the

missionaries that visited Oregon in 1838, has been charged with the See

of Vancouver’s Island, and the administration of the two other districts

in the British portion of the territory. The region within the limits of

the United States embraces the five other diocesses above-mentioned.

ARCHDIOCESS OF OREGON CITY

This district is under the jurisdiction of the Rt. Rev. F. N. Blanchet,

who has also the administration of Nesqualy.

DIOCESS OF WALLA WALLA

This diocess is under the charge of the Rt. {48} Rev. Magloire Blanchet,

who was consecrated in Montreal, on the 27th of September, 1846. He has

also the present administration of Fort Hall and Colville.[156]

The following clergymen are engaged in the missions of Oregon:—

Rev. Accolti, Michael,

” De Smet, Peter J.,

” De Vos, Peter,

” Hoecken, Adrian,

” Joset, Joseph,

” Mengarini, Gregory,

” Nobili, John,

” Point, Nicholas,

” Ravalli, Anthony,

” Vercruysse, Aloysius,

” Langlois, Anthony,

” Bolduc, John Baptist,

Who are all, with the exception of the last two, members of the Society

of Jesus.

Archbishop Blanchet lately embarked from Europe, on his way to Oregon,

with ten secular priests and two regulars, three lay brothers of the

Society of Jesus, and seven female religious, for the wants of the

mission. The total number of clergymen is twenty-six.

{49} Our information is not sufficiently detailed, to allow us to present

the religious statistics of the different diocesses into which Oregon has

been divided. We can only state in general, that since the year 1845,

several new stations have been formed, new churches erected, and a large

number of the aborigines of various tribes converted to the true faith.

The state of religion is as follows: there are eighteen chapels, viz.:

five in the Willamette Valley; St. Paul’s Cathedral; St. Mary’s at the

Convent of the Sisters; St. Francis Xaverius’ Chapel; the new Church in

the Prairie; St. John’s Church in Oregon City; one at Vancouver; one at

Cowlitz; one at Whitby; four in New Caledonia, to wit: at Stuart’s Lake,

at Fort Alexandria, at the Rapids, and at the Upper Lake; St. Mary’s

Church among the Flatheads; the Church of the Sacred Heart among the

Pointed-Hearts; the Church of St. Ignatius among the Pend-d’oreilles

of the Bay; the Chapel of St. Paul among the Kettle-Fall Tribe near

Colville. The following are stations of 1846, where chapels are to be

erected, to wit: St. Francis Borgia among the Upper Kalispels; St.

Francis Regis in Colville Valley; St. Peter’s at the great Lakes of the

Columbia; the Assumption {50} among the Flatbow Indians; the Holy Heart

of Mary among the Koetenais.

The institutions that have been commenced in Oregon, consist: 1st, of the

school of St. Mary’s among the Flatheads; 2d, of a college at St. Paul’s,

Willamette; and 3d, of an academy for girls at the same place, under the

charge of six sisters of Notre Dame. Other establishments are soon to be

commenced.

The total number of Indians in the territory is about 110,000, of whom

upwards of 6,000 have been converted to the true faith. The number of

Catholics among the Canadians and settlers amounts to about 1,500.

No. I

LETTER OF MR. BOLDUC, APOSTOLICAL MISSIONARY

TO MR. CAYENNE.

Cowlitz, 15th Feb., 1844.

SIR,—Nearly a year has elapsed since I had the satisfaction of addressing

you. During that period, I have made many new excursions, of which I now

intend giving you an account.

From the observations made by the first English navigators who visited

the coasts of America towards the north of the Columbia River, it appears

that the territory bearing the same name, was formerly discovered and

peopled by Spaniards. Even at the present day, we find ruins of birch

edifices, constructed for the purpose of drawing the savage nations to

the knowledge of the gospel. Among the natives, relics have been found

attesting this fact; a certain tribe has possessed for ages a brazen

crucifix, bearing the appearance of great antiquity, when, how, and

by whom it was brought thither, none can tell. It is probable it {52}

may have been introduced at that period, when the Spaniards seized on

California, and formed a settlement on Vancouver’s Island, separated

from Terra Firma by the strait of Juan de Fuca.[157] Gray discovered the

Columbia River; Vancouver ascended it to the point whereon is built the

fort that bears his name, and took possession of the surrounding country.

The vast territory extending between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific

Ocean is divided into two zones, differing in their climate, soil and

productions. The line of separation runs parallel to the coasts of the

South Sea, from which it is distant about 200 miles. Less woody than the

regions of the West, the eastern part rises into table-land, which forms

the basis of the Mounts Hood, St. Helena, Reignier, and Baker.[158] The

summits of these mountains rise to the height of 15 or 16,000 feet, and

are crowned with eternal snow. Last year, Mounts St. Helena and Baker

became volcanoes. The latter, within the last few months, has undergone

considerable changes on the side where the crater was formed.

In the oriental zone the climate is dry and salubrious; in winter as

well as summer, rain is very rare. Snow never covers the earth {53}

more than a foot deep; no marshy land is to be found; and the air being

neither foggy nor misty every species of fever is totally unknown. In

the inferior part, from October to March, the rains are continual; thick

clouds envelope the atmosphere, and hide the sun for entire weeks.

When the vapours no longer obscure the air, a mild and vivifying heat

is diffused around. This winter has been quite remarkable by the small

quantity of rain. During the greater part of February and the beginning

of March, the weather was delightful, we could have imagined ourselves in

May. The grass was verdant in the meadows, and strawberries were in full

bloom.

In March, rain seldom falls; a glowing sun reanimates nature, which soon

appears in her gayest attire. Wheat sown in autumn surpasses in April,

that which we are accustomed to behold in Canada in the month of June.

During summer, the weather is clear and sultry, sometimes, however, thick

clouds gather around, and appear as if they would burst in torrents over

our heads, but they are soon dissipated without thunder, and without

shedding on the earth a drop of that moisture which she seems to require

to perfect her harvest.

{54} In June, the rivers, swollen by the melted snow, inundate the

plains, and increase the stagnant water formed by the rains of winter.

The vapors arising from the influence of a meridian sun, cause fever

and ague, which are more frequent when the rivers overflow their banks.

This malady reigns throughout the country from the end of August to

the middle of October, and persons once attacked generally suffer from

its baneful effects for several years; and as I have not escaped this

year, I have every reason to dread a recurrence in the future. You could

scarcely credit the relation of the terrible ravages which this epidemic

causes among the numerous tribes inhabiting the shores of the Columbia.

Entire camps have been swept away by this fatal scourge. When the savages

find themselves attacked by it, they hasten to plunge into the cold

rivers, and die immediately. The whites with proper attention baffle the

distemper.

I informed you last year, that I intended opening a mission at Puget

Sound; and hoped, if possible, to reach Vancouver’s Island; this project

has been executed, and I will now give you a few details.

To attain this object, I thought it better not {55} to go alone on the

island; no priest had as yet trodden the soil, and the savages were

little familiarized with the whites. Happily, the Hon. Hudson Bay Company

was about constructing a fort at the southern extremity of the island.

Mr. Douglas, the director of this expedition, generously invited me to

take my passage on board his vessel. Most willingly did I accept the

kind offer, and quitted Cowlitz 7th of March, for Shwally.[159] The

Steamboat Beaver awaited us some days; for, having several preparations

to make, we did not get on board before the morning of the 13th. After

having pursued our course during the day, towards evening we cast anchor

in still water, at a place named Pointe Perdrix, formed by a projection

of the Isle Whitby.[160] Fishing lines were soon prepared, and we had the

satisfaction of procuring an excellent dinner for the next day. We caught

a quantity of beautiful fish, not unlike the cod of Canada, some of them

were four feet in length.

The waters of Puget Bay are richly stocked; salmon abound, and form

one of the principal resources of the natives. In July, August and

September, more are taken than can be consumed. A small fish, peculiar

to the north-western {56} coast is here found; it comes up the rivers

in spring, and contains such a quantity of oil, that when dried and lit

by the tail it burns like a candle. From this fish the savages extract

excellent oil, which they use for seasoning their food.[161] Early on

the 14th we raised anchor and directed our course towards Juan de Fuca

Strait. We landed, and after having visited a small camp of savages,

belonging to the Tribe of Klalams,[162] we bore away for the southern

point of Vancouver’s Island, whither we arrived about 4 o’clock in the

afternoon.[163] At first, only two canoes were perceived; but, after a

discharge of cannon, we saw the natives issuing from their haunts and

surrounding the steamboat. Next morning, the pirogues (Indian boats) came

from every side. I went on shore with the commander of the expedition

and the captain of the vessel; having received unequivocal proofs of the

good-will of the Indians, I visited their village situated six miles from

the port, at the extremity of the bay.

Like the surrounding tribes, this one possessed a little fortress,

formed by stakes enclosing about 150 square feet.[164] The inhabitants

endeavor to secure themselves in this manner from the incursions of the

Toungletats, a powerful {57} and warlike tribe; one part of which encamps

on Vancouver’s Island, the other on the continent, north of Frazer’s

River.[165] These ferocious enemies enter the villages by night, massacre

all the men, and carry off the women and children whom they reduce

to slavery. On my arrival, all the tribe, men, women and children,

assembled to shake hands with me; a ceremony which these savages never

omit. They repaired to the great lodge belonging to their chief, where

I spoke to them concerning the existence of a God, the Creator of all

things; of the recompense promised to good actions, and the eternal

chastisements which await the commission of crime. My instructions were

often interrupted by the harangues of my auditors. The following one may

prove interesting: “Chief, listen to my words; ten years ago, I heard

that there was a Master above, who hated evil; and that among the French,

men were to be found who taught the knowledge of this Master. I also

heard that men of this description would come to our home. Since that

time, my heart, which was formerly very wicked, has become good; I no

longer do evil; and since you are come, all hearts are filled with joy.”

{58} Another day, whilst I was speaking of baptism, and recounting to

them that several nations had caused their children to be baptized, a

man arose and said: “Thy words are good, but we have been told that all

who were baptized among the Kwaitlens, and the Kawitskins (near Frazer

River), died immediately;[166] however, since thou sayest it is a good

thing, we believe thee. If the sacred water will cause us to see the

Great Master after death, baptize all our camp; perform this charity, for

they nearly all die.” I promised I would return the following Sunday, and

confer the sacrament.

My arrival being noised abroad, several neighboring nations came hither

in crowds. Saturday, the 18th, was employed in constructing a kind of

repository, whereon to celebrate mass the ensuing morn. Mr. Douglas gave

me several of his men to aid in the work. Branches of fir-trees formed

the sides of this rustic chapel; and the awning of the boat, its canopy.

Early Sunday morning, more than twelve hundred savages, belonging to the

three great tribes, Kawitskins, Klalams, and Isanisks, were assembled

in this modest sanctuary.[167] Our commander neglected nothing that

could render the ceremony imposing; he gave me liberty to {59} choose on

board, all that could serve for its decoration. He assisted at the mass

with some Canadians, with two Catholic ladies. It was in the midst of

this numerous assembly, that, for the first time, the sacred mysteries

were celebrated; may the blood of the Spotless Lamb, fertilize this

barren land, and cause it to produce an abundant harvest. This being the

day fixed for the baptism of the children, I repaired to the principal

village accompanied by all who had assisted at the divine service. On

arriving, I was again compelled to present my hand to about 600 persons.

The children were arranged along the sea-coast; I distributed to each

a small piece of paper with a name written thereon; and immediately

commenced the ceremony. It was about ten o’clock in the morning, and I

did not finish before night, the new Christians numbered 102. Though much

exhausted, I was obliged to walk two leagues to rejoin the steamboat.

According to the plan traced out for our voyage, we were to remain here

but a few days; and then continue our course from fort to fort, until

we arrived at the Russian establishment at Sitka,[168] but the little

vessel bearing the provisions, came not. This delay grieved me {60} much,

for the grand vicar had communicated to me his intention of establishing

at the beginning of summer, a mission in Whitby Isle, and also of

employing me in this work of zeal. Fearing I would not return in time

if I delayed my departure, I resolved immediately to retrace my steps.

I purchased a canoe, and engaged the chief of the Isanisks and ten of

his men to conduct me direct to Whitby Isle. I quitted Vancouver the

24th of March, bearing with me the most lively sentiments of gratitude

towards the commander of the expedition and Captain Brotchie, for all

their kind and delicate attentions. The sea was calm, but the atmosphere

clouded; luckily, I took with me a compass, otherwise I should have

strayed from my course, having twenty-seven miles to traverse. The first

day we reached a little island between the extremity of Vancouver and

the continent where we passed the night.[169] My Indians, having shot

a sea-wolf, made a great feast. You would scarcely believe how much a

savage can devour at a repast; but if he is voracious in time of plenty,

he knows how to fast several successive days without enduring much

fatigue.

The 25th there arose a strong north-westerly breeze. The rowers, before

quitting the coast, {61} ascended a hill to ascertain if the sea was much

agitated in the middle of the strait; they were some time before they

could decide the point; at last they declared, that with the aid of a

sail, we might brave the danger. A mast was prepared, a blanket affixed

to it, and thus equipped we confided ourselves to the mercy of the waves.

Towards three o’clock we landed at the isle of Whitby; not, however,

without experiencing some danger.

A great number of savage Klalams and Skadjats came to meet us; I knew, by

reputation, the chief of the Skadjats, and asked to see him.[170] They

replied that he had left two days previously, to meet me at Vancouver’s

island. His two sons presented themselves; one of them, pressing my hand,

said, “My father, Netlan, is not here, he is gone to Ramoon (this is the

name of the southern point of Vancouver’s island); when he learns thou

art here he will soon return. He will be delighted if thou wilt remain

among us, for he is tired saying ‘_Mass_’ every Sunday, and preaching

to these people.” Later, I was informed that his Mass consisted in

explaining to the savages of his tribe the chronological history of

religion (traced on a map), in teaching them to make {62} numberless

signs of the cross, and singing a few canticles with the _Kyrie Eleison_.

I pitched my tent near the cross planted by Mr. Blanchet when he first

landed in the island, in 1840. The next morning all the camp of the

Skadjats surrounded me to hear the word of God. You may form some idea of

the population of this tribe when I tell you, that I gave my hand to a

file of 650 persons, besides 150 others who had passed the night near my

tent not included in this number: and nearly all the old men and women,

besides the children, had remained in their huts. After the instruction,

several canticles were chanted in such full chorus that the sound was

deafening.

Several parents had begged me to baptize their children. I repaired to

the village and requested to see all the children, under seven, who had

not received the grace of regeneration. Not one was forgotten; there were

150 present. The ceremony took place in a little meadow, surrounded

by lofty and antique fir-trees. It was not 12 o’clock when I began the

administration of the sacrament, and I did not finish before sun-set.

The day was most beautiful, but the ardent rays of the sun, joined to

the want of a substantial breakfast, caused me to {63} suffer much by

a violent headache. The 27th, the chief of the Skadjats declared to me

that I ought not to be lodged in a cotton house (under a tent); “for this

reason,” added he, “to-morrow thou must tell me in what place we shall

construct thee an abode, and thou wilt see how powerful is the effect

of my words when I speak to my people.” Beholding the good-will of the

chief, I pointed out a little eminence. Immediately afterward I saw two

hundred workmen, some having hatchets to fell the trees, others preparing

to remove them; four of the most skilful undertook the arrangement of the

edifice. In two days all was terminated, and I found myself installed in

a house 28 feet long by 25 in width. The wood was rough, the roof covered

with cedar-bark, and the interior overlaid with rush mats. During the

week I gave them several instructions, and taught them some canticles—for

without singing, the best things are of little value; noise is essential

to their enjoyment.

I had terminated the exercises of the mission, when several savages

arrived from the continent; as soon as they perceived me, they cast

themselves on their knees, exclaiming, “Priest, priest, during four days

we have travelled to {64} behold thee, we have walked night and day,

and have scarcely tasted any food; now that we see thee our hearts are

joyful, take pity on us; we have learned that there is a Master on high,

but we know not how to speak to him. Come with us, thou wilt baptize our

children as thou didst those of the Skadjats.” I was moved by these

words, and would willingly have followed them to their forests, but it

was impossible to do so, my intended arrival having been announced at

Skwally. I quitted these good Indians the 3d April; during my abode

among them I experienced nothing but consolations which surpassed all my

expectations.

By this relation you will perceive, sir, that the savages of Puget Bay

show much zeal for religion, yet they do not understand the full extent

of the term. If to be a Christian it were but necessary to know some

prayers, and sing canticles, there is not one among them who would not

adopt the title; but a capital point still to be gained is, a reformation

of morals. As soon as we touch this chord, their ardor is changed into

indifference. In vain the chieftains harangue their inferiors; how can

they expect to make any impression where they are themselves the more

guilty!

{65} I do not mistrust Divine Providence, but I may say, without exposing

myself to illusion, that our best hopes are centred in the tribes

inhabiting the coasts of the ocean, or which are settled at the mouth of

the numerous tributaries.

Sir, I have the honor to remain,

Your very humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ,

_J. B. Z. Bolduc_,

Apostolical Missionary.

No. II

A. M. D. G.

Sainte Marie du Willamette, 9th October, 1844.

MY DEAR BROTHER,—On the 28th July, after a tedious navigation of nearly

eight months, we came in sight of the Oregon Territory. Oh! with what

transports of delight we hailed these long-desired shores. What heartfelt

thanksgivings burst from every tongue. All, with one accord, entoned that

magnificent hymn of praise, the “Te Deum.” But these moments of happiness

were not of long duration; they were succeeded by others, of deep

anxiety, as the remembrance of the perils yet to be encountered flashed

upon our minds. We were approaching the “Columbia.” The entrance into

this river is difficult and dangerous, even for seamen provided with good

charts; and our captain, unable to procure any, was, we know, entirely

unacquainted with the rocks and breakers, which, at this season, render

it almost impracticable.

We soon perceived Cape Disappointment,[171] which seems to point out to

travellers the course {67} they are to pursue. It was growing late, and

the captain resolved to steer out into the open sea, to avoid the danger

of running aground during the night. As the vessel moved slowly onward,

leaving the shore in the distance, we stood upon deck, contemplating

from afar the high mountains and vast forests of Oregon. Here and there

we could distinguish the clouds of smoke curling upwards from the huts

of our poor Indians. This aspect filled my very soul with indescribable

emotions. It would be necessary to be placed in the same position, to

understand fully what were then our feelings. Our hearts palpitated with

joy as we gazed on those boundless regions, over which were scattered

so many abandoned souls—the young, the aged—dying in the shades of

infidelity, for want of missionaries; an evil which we were about to

alleviate, if not for all, at least for a great number.

The 29th all the fathers celebrated the Holy Sacrifice, wishing to offer

a last violence to heaven, and force, as it were, a benediction on our

mission. The morning was dark and gloomy: so were our spirits. About 10

o’clock the sky cleared, and allowed us to approach, with caution, the

vast and fearful mouth of the {68} Columbia. We soon discovered immense

breakers, several miles in extent—the infallible sign of a sand bank. The

shoals crossed the river, and seemed to oppose an invincible barrier to

our entrance. This sight filled us with consternation. We felt that to

attempt a passage would be exposing ourselves to an almost certain death.

What was to be done? What become of us? How extricate ourselves from so

perilous a situation?

On the 30th our captain, from the topmast, caught the glimpse of a

vessel, slowly rounding the Cape, on its way out of the river. This

cheering sight was in a moment snatched from our eager view by an

intervening rock, under the shade of which it cast anchor, to await a

favourable wind. Its appearance, however, led us to conclude that the

passage of the river was yet practicable, and we hoped to be directed

by its course. About 3 o’clock the captain sent the lieutenant, with

three sailors, to sound the breakers, and seek a favorable opening for

our entrance on the morrow, which happened to be the 31st July, feast of

the great “Loyola.” This auspicious coincidence re-animated our hopes,

and roused our drooping courage. Full of confidence in the powerful

protection of our {69} glorious founder, we prostrated ourselves, and

fervently implored him not to abandon us in our extreme need. This duty

accomplished, we hastened on deck, to await the return of the shallop.

It was not until 11 o’clock that their little vessel came alongside

the “Indefatigable.” No one dared interrogate the sailors, for their

dejected countenances foreboded discouraging tidings. However, the

lieutenant assured the captain that he had found no obstacle, and that

he had passed the bar the preceding night, at 11 o’clock, with five

fathoms (30 feet) of water. Immediately were the sails unfurled, and

the “Indefatigable” slowly resumed her majestic course, under the favor

of a rising breeze. The sky was serene, the sun shone with unwonted

brilliancy. For a long time we had not beheld so lovely a day; nothing

but the safe entrance into the river was wanting, to render this the

_most beautiful_ day of our voyage. As we approached, we re-doubled

our prayers. All appeared recollected, and prepared for every event.

Presently our wary captain gave orders to sound. A hardy sailor fastened

himself to the side of the vessel, and lowered the plummet. Soon was

heard the cry, “Seven fathoms.” At intervals the cry was repeated:

“Six fathoms,” {70} “Five fathoms.” It may be imagined how our hearts

palpitated at each reiteration. But when we heard the thrilling cry of

“_Three fathoms_,” all hope vanished. At one moment it was thought the

vessel would be dashed against the reefs. The lieutenant said to the

captain, “We are between life and death; but we must advance.” The Lord

had not resolved on our destruction, but He wished to test the faith

of his servants. In a few moments the tidings of four fathoms roused

our sinking spirits: we breathed once more, but the danger yet impended

over us; we had still to sail two miles amidst these fearful breakers.

A second time is heard the chilling cry of “Three fathoms!” “We have

mistaken our route,” exclaimed the lieutenant. “Bah!” exclaimed the

captain, “do you not see that the Indefatigable passes over everything?

Keep on.” Heaven was for us; otherwise, neither the skill of our captain,

nor the sailors’ activity, could have rescued us from inevitable death.

We were amidst the southern channel, which no vessel had ever crossed. A

few moments after we learned that our escape had been miraculous.

Our vessel had, at first, taken the right course for entering the river,

but, not far from its mouth, the Columbia divides into two branches,

{71} forming, as it were, two channels. The northern, near Cape

Disappointment, is the one we should have followed; the southern is not

frequented, owing to the tremendous breakers that obstruct its entrance

over which we had passed, the first, and probably the last. We also

learned, that the deputy of Fort Astoria, having descried our vessel two

days before, hastened, with some savages, to the extremity of the cape,

and endeavored, by means of large fires, hoisted flags, and the firing

of guns, to warn us of danger. We had, indeed, perceived these signals,

but without suspecting they were intended for us. God, no doubt, wished

to show us that he is sufficiently powerful to expose us to peril, and to

withdraw us from it unharmed. Glory to His holy name! glory, also, to St.

Ignatius, who so visibly protected his children on this, his festal day.

About 4½, a canoe approached us: it contained Clatsop Indians, commanded

by an American resident of the coast.[172] The whoop of these wild men of

the forest much astonished our fathers, and the sisters of Notre Dame.

The only word we could distinguish was “Catche,” which they vociferated

countless times. Our captain made them a sign to approach, and permitted

them to {72} come on board. The American immediately accosted me, and

spoke of our perilous situation, saying, that he would have come to our

aid, but his Indians refused to brave the danger. The Indians, on their

side, endeavored by signs to make us comprehend how great had been their

terror, for, at every moment, they expected to see our vessel dashed

into a thousand pieces. They had wept for us, convinced, that without

the intervention of the “Great Spirit,” we could never have escaped the

dangers. Verily, these brave savages were not mistaken. All who know the

history of our passage affirm the same; they cease not to congratulate us

on so miraculous an escape.

The second visit we received, was from some Tchinouks, a small tribe,

inhabiting the immense forests of the northern shore. The Clatsops,

whose number amounts to not more than one hundred and fifty men, occupy

the southern shore. The Tchinouks inhabit three villages beyond the

forest. The men wrap themselves in blankets when they appear before the

“whites,” and are excessively vain of their collars and ear-rings. Their

disposition is extremely sociable, and we found it necessary to be on the

reserve, to prevent their too great familiarity. {73} They are content,

provided they be not driven away, and they require no further attention

paid them. They are of a peaceable temper, and, as their wants are easily

supplied, they lead an inactive and indolent life. Fishing and the chase

form their sole occupation. Game abounds in their forests, and their

rivers are teeming with salmon. After providing for their daily wants,

they spend entire hours motionless, basking in the sun; it is needless to

add, they live in the most profound ignorance of religion. These are the

Indians who have the custom of flattening their children’s heads.

The following morning we perceived a small skiff making its way towards

us. It belonged to Mr. Burney, the gentleman who, in our recent danger,

had acted so friendly a part.[173] He accosted us with the utmost

kindness, and invited us to return with him to Fort Astoria, of which

he is the Superintendant, that his wife and children might have the

pleasure of seeing us. Persuaded, that after so tedious a voyage, the

visit would be agreeable to all parties, I readily consented. Whilst this

hospitable family were preparing dinner we made a little excursion into

the neighboring forest. We were in admiration of the immense height and

prodigious {74} bulk of the fir trees, many of which were two hundred

feet high, and four and a half in diameter. We beheld one which measured

forty-two feet in circumference.

After a ramble of two hours, Mr. Burney re-conducted us to the fort.

In a second promenade several of our company greatly admired the tombs

of the savage. The deceased is placed in a sort of canoe, or hollow

trunk of a tree; the body is then covered with mats or skins; and the

savage entombing consists in thus suspending the corpse to the branches

of trees, or exposing it on the banks of the river. In one place we saw

about twelve of these sepulchres; they are ordinarily found in places

of difficult access, the better to secure them from the rapine of wild

beasts.[174] Not far from this cemetery one of our fathers, more curious

than the others, wandered a little distance into the woods; he speedily

hastened back, apparently in a panic, saying that he had seen the _muzzle

of a bear_, which did not look very tame.

I set out for Fort Vancouver the 2d August, wishing to reach there

before my companions, that I might inform the Rev. Mr. Blanchet of our

happy arrival. As to our fathers, the remainder {75} of their voyage may

be summed up in few words. On the 3d and 4th their vessel was almost

stationary, for want of a favorable wind. At a glance, their three days’

voyage might be measured. Towards evening a gentle breeze sprung up, and

thus permitted them to pursue their course. In a few hours they passed

the rocks, extending the distance of six leagues. They were then enabled

to keep the centre of the river, where the numerous windings of the

stream compelled them to make continual manœuvres.

In this place the river is most magnificent: the smooth polished surface

of the waters—the rapid current, almost concealed from view by the

contraction of its rocky bed—the sullen roaring of the waterfalls and

cascades—produce upon the mind an effect of sublimity and grandeur not

to be described. One is never weary admiring the richness, beauty, and

variety of these solitary regions. The shores on either side are bordered

by lofty forests, and crowned with thickly-wooded forests. It is more

especially in the _forest_ that the grand, the picturesque, the sublime,

the beautiful, form the most singular and fantastic combinations. From

the loftiest giants of the forest down to the humblest {76} shrubs, _all_

excite the spectator’s astonishment. The parasites form a characteristic

feature of these woodlands. They cling to the tree, climb it to a certain

height, and then, letting their tops fall to the earth, again take

root—again shoot up—push from branch to branch—from tree to tree, in

every direction—until tangled, twisted, and knotted in every possible

form, they festoon the whole forest with drapery in which a ground-work

of the richest verdure is diversified with garlands of the most varied

and many-colored flowers. In ascending the Columbia we meet, from time

to time, with bays of considerable extent, interspersed with handsome

little islands, which, thrown, as it were, like groups of flowers and

verdure, present a charming spectacle. Here the painter should go to

study his art—here would he find the loveliest scenery, the most varied

and brilliant coloring. At every step the scene becomes more ravishing;

the perspective more noble and majestic. In no other part of the world is

nature so great a _coquette_ as here.