Chicken Portola a la Coppa

Take a fresh cocoanut and cut off the top, removing nearly all of the

meat. Put together three tablespoonfuls of chopped cocoanut meat and two

ears of fresh, green corn, taken from the cob. Slice two onions into

four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, together with a tablespoonful of diced

bacon fried in olive oil, add one chopped green pepper, half a dozen

tomatoes stewed with salt and pepper, one clove of garlic, and cook all

together until it thickens. Strain this into the corn and cocoanut and

add one spring chicken cut in four pieces. Put the mixture into the

shell of the cocoanut, using the cut-off top as a cover, and close

tightly with a covering of paste around the jointure to keep in the

flavors. Put the cocoanut into a pan with water in it and set in the

oven, well heated, for one hour, basting frequently to prevent the

cocoanut's burning.

A bare recital of the terms of the recipe cannot bring to the

uninitiated even a suspicion of the delightful aroma that comes from the

cocoanut when its top is lifted, nor can it give the slightest idea of

the delicacy of the savor arising from the combination of the cocoanut

with young chicken. It is not a difficult dish to prepare, and if you

cannot get it at any of the restaurants, and we are sure you cannot, try

it at home some time and surprise your friends with a dish to be found

in only one restaurant in the world. If you desire it at Coppa's on your

visit to San Francisco you will have to telephone out to him in advance

(unless he has succeeded in getting back to the city, which he

contemplates) so that he can prepare it for you, and, take our word for

it, you will never regret doing so.

Coppa has many wonderful dishes to serve, and he delights so much in

your appreciation that he is always fearful something is wrong if you

fail to do full justice to his meal. He showed this one evening when he

had filled a little party of us to repletion by his lavish provision for

our entertainment, and nature rebelled against anything more. To us came

Coppa in tears.

"What is the matter with the chicken, Doctor? Is it not cooked just

right?"

It was with difficulty that we made him understand that there was a

limit to capacity, and that he had fed us with such bountiful hand we

could eat no more. Even now when we go to Coppa's we have a little

feeling of fear lest we offend him by not eating enough to convince him

that we are pleased.

Coppa's walls were always adorned with strange conceits of the artists

and writers who frequented his place, and after a picture, or a bit of

verse had remained until it was too familiar some one erased it and

replaced it with something he thought was better. We preserved one

written by an unknown Bohemian. We give it just as it was:

Through the fog of centuries, dim and dense,

I sometimes seem to see

The shadowy line of a backyard fence

And a feline shape of me.

I hear the growl, and yowl and howl

Of each nocturnal fight,

And the throaty stir, half cry, half purr

Of passionate delight,

As seeking an amorous rendezvous

My ancient brothers go stealing

Through the purple gloom of night.

I've seen your eyes, with a greenish glint;

You move with a feline grace;

And when you are pleased I catch the hint

Of a purr in your throat and face.

Then I wonder if you are dreaming, too,

Of temples along the Nile,

Where you yowled and howled, and loved and prowled,

With many a sensuous wile,

And borrowed the grace you own today

From that other life in the far-away;

And if such dreams beguile.

I know that you sit by your cozy fire,

When shadows crowd the room,

And my soul responds to an old desire

To roam through the velvety gloom,

So stealthily stealing, softly shod,

My spirit is hurrying thence

To the lure of an ancient mystic god,

Whose magnet is intense,

Where I know your soul, too, roams in fur,

For I hear it call with a throaty purr,

From the shadowy backyard fence.

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