THE LANDLUBBER'S CHAPTER
Common Nautical Terms and Expressions Defined--How to
Sail a Boat--Boat Rigs--Rowing-clothes--How to Make a
Bathing-suit--How to Avoid Sunburn
THERE are a few common terms with which all who venture on the water
should be familiar, not only for convenience, but for prudential
reasons.
Accidents are liable to happen to boats of all descriptions, and often
the safety of property and life depend upon the passengers' ability to
understand what is said to them by the officers or sailors in charge of
the craft.
To those who are familiar with the water and shipping it may seem
absurd to define the bow and stern of a boat, but there are people who
will read this book who cannot tell the bow from the stern, so we will
begin this chapter with the statement that
=The bow= is the front end of the boat, and
=The stern= is the rear end of the boat.
=For'ard= is toward the bow of the boat.
=Aft= is toward the stern of the boat. Both terms are used by sailors
as forward and backward are used by landsmen.
=The hull= is the boat itself without masts, spars, or rigging. A skiff
and a birch-bark canoe are hulls.
=The keel= is the piece of timber running along the centre of the
bottom of the hull, like the runner of a skate, and used to give the
boat a hold on the water, so that she will not slide sideways.
When you are sitting in the stern of a boat, facing the bow, the side
next to your right hand is the right-hand side of the boat, and the
side next to your left hand is the left-hand side of the boat. But
these terms are not used by seamen; they always say
=Starboard= for the right-hand side of the boat, and
=Port= for the left-hand side of the boat. Formerly the left-hand side
was called the larboard, but this occasioned many serious mistakes on
account of the similarity of the sound of larboard and starboard when
used in giving orders.
[Illustration: Fig. 122.--Top view of small boat.]
Red and Green Lights
After dark a red light is carried on the port side and a green light on
the starboard side of all vessels in motion. If you can remember that
port wine is red, and that the port light is of the same color, you
will always be able to tell in which direction an approaching craft is
pointing by the relative location of the lights.
"When both lights you see ahead,
Port your helm and show your red!
Green to green and red to red,
You're all right, and go ahead!"
If you are a real landlubber, the verse quoted will be of little
service, because you will not know how to port your helm. In fact, you
probably will not know where to look for the helm or what it looks
like; but only a few of our readers are out-and-out landlubbers, and
most of them know that the helm is in some way connected with the
steering apparatus.
=The rudder= is the movable piece of board at the stern of the boat by
means of which the craft is guided. The rudder is moved by a lever,
ropes, or a wheel.
=The tiller= is the lever for moving the rudder, or the ropes used for
the same purpose (Fig. 123).
[Illustration: Fig. 123.--Helm--Lever, or stick, for tiller.]
=The wheel= is the wheel whose spokes end in handles on the outer edge
of the rim, or felly, and it is used for moving the rudder (Fig. 124).
=The helm= is that particular part of the steering apparatus that you
put your hands on when steering.
=The deck= is the roof of the hull.
=The centreboard= is an adjustable keel that can be raised or lowered
at pleasure. It is an American invention. The centreboard, as a rule,
is only used on comparatively small vessels. The inventor of the
centreboard is Mr. Salem Wines, who kept a shop on Water Street, near
Market Slip, and, when alive, was a well-known New York boat-builder.
His body now lies in Greenwood Cemetery, and upon the headstone of his
grave is the inscription, "The Inventor of the Centreboard."
For sailing, the boat, or hull, is rigged with masts and spars for
spreading the sails to catch the wind.
=The masts= are the upright poles, or sticks, that hold the sails.
[Illustration: Fig. 124.--Helm--The wheel.]
=The yards= are the poles, or sticks, at right angles with the masts
that spread the sails.
=The boom= is the movable spar at the bottom of the sail.
=The gaff= is the pole, or spar, for spreading the top, or head, of the
sail (Fig. 125).
=The sail= is a big canvas kite, of which the boom, gaff, and masts are
the kite-sticks. You must not understand by this that the sail goes
soaring up in the air, for the weight of the hull prevents that; but if
you make fast a large kite to the mast of a boat it would be a sail,
and if you had a line long and strong enough, and should fasten any
spread sail to it, there can be no doubt that the sail would fly.
=The spars= are the masts, bowsprit, yards, and gaffs.
=The bowsprit= is the stick, or sprit, projecting from the bow of the
boat (Fig. 161, Sloop).
=The foremast= is the mast next to the bow--the forward mast (Fig. 159,
Ship).
=The mainmast= is the second mast--the mast next to the foremast.
=Mizzen-mast= is the mast next to and back of the mainmast (Fig. 159,
Ship).
[Illustration: Fig. 125.--A sail.]
=The rigging= of a boat consists of the ropes, or lines, attached to
its masts and sails, but a boat's rig refers to the number of masts as
well as to the shape of its sails.
=Stays= are strong ropes supporting the masts, fore and aft.
=Shrouds= are strong ropes reaching from the mastheads to the sides of
the vessel; supports for the masts, starboard and port.
=Ratlines= are the little ropes that form the steps, or foot ropes,
that run crosswise between the shrouds.
=The painter= is the rope at the bow of a small boat, used for the same
purpose as is a hitching-strap on a horse.
=The standing rigging= consists of the stays and shrouds.
=The running rigging= consists of all the ropes used in handling yards
and sails.
=The sheets= are the ropes, or lines, attached to the corners of sails,
by which they are governed (Fig. 126).
=The main sheet= is the rope that governs the mainsail.
=The jib-sheet= is the rope that governs the jib-sail.
=The gaskets= are the ropes used in lashing the sails when furled.
=The braces= are the ropes used in swinging the yards around.
=The jib-stay= is the stay that runs from the foremast to the bowsprit.
=The bob-stay= is practically an extension of the jib-stay and the
chief support of the spars. It connects the bow of the boat with the
bowsprit and prevents the latter from bobbing up and down.
Besides the port and starboard sides of a boat there are the windward
and leeward sides. Do not understand by this that the boat has four
sides, like a square. Windward may be the port or the starboard side,
according to the direction the wind blows; because
=Windward= means the side of the boat against which the wind blows--the
side where the wind climbs aboard; or it may mean the direction from
which the wind comes. The opposite side is called
=Leeward=--that is, the side of the boat opposite to that against which
the wind blows, where the wind tumbles overboard, or the side opposite
to windward. When you are sailing you may be near a
=Lee Shore=--that is, the shore on your lee side against which the wind
blows; or a
=Windward Shore=--that is, the land on your windward side from which
the wind blows.
All seamen dread a lee shore, as it is a most dangerous shore to
approach, from the fact that the wind is doing its best to blow you
on the rocks or beach. But the windward shore can be approached with
safety, because the wind will keep you off the rocks, and if it is
blowing hard, the land will break the force of the wind.
In a canoe or shell the boatman sits either directly on the bottom, or,
as in the shell, very close to it, and the weight of his body serves to
keep the boat steady, but larger crafts seldom rely upon live weights
to steady them. They use
=Ballast=--that is, weights of stone, lead, iron, or sand-bags, used to
balance the boat and make her steady.
As has been said before in this chapter, the sail is a big canvas kite
made fast to the boat and called a sail, but the ordinary kite has its
covering stretched permanently on rigid sticks.
The sail, however, can be stretched to its full extent or only
partially, or it may be rolled up, exposing nothing but the masts to
the force of the wind. To accomplish all this there are various ropes
and attachments, all of which are named.
[Illustration: Fig. 126.--Sail and sheet.]
[Illustration: Fig. 127.--Parts of sail.]
It is quite important that the beginner should know the names of all the
Parts of a Sail
=Luff.=--That part of the sail adjoining the mast--the front of the
sail (Fig. 127).
=Leach.=-That part of the sail stretched between the outer or after end
of the boom and the outer end of the gaff--the back part of the sail
(Fig. 127).
=Head.=--That part of the sail adjoining the gaff--the top of the sail.
=Foot.=--That part of the sail adjoining the boom--the bottom of the
sail (Fig. 127).
=Clews.=--A general name for the four corners of the sail.
=Clew.=--The particular corner at the foot of the sail where the leach
and boom meet (Fig. 127).
=Tack.=--The corner of the sail where boom and mast meet (Fig. 127).
=Throat, or Nock.=--The corner of the sail where gaff and mast meet
(Fig. 127).
=Peak.=--Corner of the sail where the leach and gaff meet (Fig. 127).
[Illustration: Fig. 128.--Starboard helm.]
[Illustration: Fig. 129--Port helm.]
How to Steer a Boat
When you wish your boat to turn to the right push your helm to the
left. This will push the rudder to the right and turn the boat in that
direction. When you wish your boat to turn to the left push your helm
to the right. In other words, starboard your helm and you will turn to
the port (Fig. 128). Port your helm and you will turn to the starboard
(Fig. 129).
From a reference to the diagram you may see that when you =port your
helm= you move the tiller to the port side of the boat, and when you
=starboard your helm= you move your tiller to the starboard side of the
boat (Fig. 128), but to =ease your helm= you move your helm toward the
centre of the boat--that is, amidships.
How to Sail a Boat
If you fasten the bottom of a kite to the ground, you will find that
the wind will do its best to blow the kite over, and if the kite is
fastened to the mast of a toy boat, the wind will try to blow the boat
over.
In sailing a boat the effort of the wind apparently has but one
object, and that is the upsetting of the boat. The latter, being well
balanced, is constantly endeavoring to sit upright on its keel, and
you, as a sailor, are aiding the boat in the struggle, at the same time
subverting the purpose of the wind to suit your own ideas. It is an
exciting game, in which man usually comes out ahead, but the wind gains
enough victories to keep its courage up.
Every boat has peculiarities of its own, and good traits as well as bad
ones, which give the craft a personal character that lends much to your
interest, and even affects your sensibilities to the extent of causing
you to have the same affection for a good, trustworthy craft that you
have for an intelligent and kind dog or horse.
A properly balanced sail-boat, with main sheet trimmed flat and free
helm, should be as sensitive as a weathercock and act like one--that
is, she ought to swing around until her bow pointed right into the "eye
of the wind," the direction from which the wind blows. Such a craft it
is not difficult to sail, but it frequently happens that the boat that
is given to you to sail is not properly balanced, and shows a constant
tendency to "come up in the wind"--face the wind--when you are doing
your best to keep her sails full and keep her on her course. This
may be caused by too much sail aft. The boat is then said to carry a
weather helm.
=Weather Helm.=--When a boat shows a constant tendency to come up in
the wind.
=Lee Helm.=--When a boat shows a constant tendency to fall off the
wind--that is, when the wind blows her bow to the leeward. This is
a much worse trait than the former, and a boat with a lee helm is a
dangerous boat. It may be possible to remedy it by adding sail aft or
reducing sail forward, which should immediately be done.
In spite of the fact, already stated, that the wind's constant effort
is to capsize a boat, there is little or no danger of a properly rigged
boat upsetting unless the sheets are fast or hampered in some way. When
a sail-boat upsets it is, of course, because the wind blows it over.
Now, the wind cannot blow a boat over unless the boat presents some
surface larger than its hull for the wind to blow against, and the sail
is the only object that offers enough surface to the breeze to cause an
upset.
[Illustration: Fig. 130--Close-hauled.]
[Illustration: Fig. 131.--Before the wind.]
[Illustration: Top view of boats, showing position of helm and boom.]
If the sheet is slackened, the sail will swing around until it flaps
like a flag and only the thin edge is presented to the wind; and a boat
that a flag will upset is no boat for beginners to trust themselves in.
True, the boom may be very long and heavy enough to make it dangerous
to let so much of it overboard, but this is seldom the case. A good
sailor keeps his eyes constantly on the sails and trims them to take
advantage of the slightest favorable breeze. In place of losing
control of his sail by letting go the sheets he will ease the tiller so
as to "spill" part of the wind that is, let the forward part, or luff,
of the sail shake a bit. Or, in case of a sudden puff of wind, he may
deem it necessary to "luff"--that is, let her shake--and slacken the
sheets too.
=Trimmed Flat.=--Sheets hauled in until the boom is only a little to
the leeward of the helm (Fig. 130).
=Close-hauled.=--Sheets trimmed flat and the boat pointing as near as
possible to the eye of the wind. Then the sail cannot belly, and is
called flat (Fig. 130).
To Sail Close-hauled
The skipper must watch that his sail does not flap or ripple at the
throat, for that means that he is pointing too close to the wind and
that some of the breeze is blowing on both sides of his sail, which
even a novice can see will retard the boat.
Upon discovering a rippling motion at the luff of the sail put the helm
up--that is, move the tiller a little to windward until the sail stops
its flapping.
=Before the Wind.=--When the wind is astern; sailing with the wind;
sailing directly from windward to leeward (Fig. 131).
In order to reach the desired point it is often expedient to sail
before the wind, but unless the wind is light, beginners had better not
try this. To sail before the wind you let your sheets out until the
boom stands at _almost_ right angles with the boat. Keep your eye on
the sail and see that it does not flap, for if the man at the helm is
careless and allows the boat to point enough away from the direction of
the wind to allow the wind to get on the other side of the sail, the
latter will swing around or jibe with such force as to endanger the
mast, if it does not knock some one overboard.
The price of liberty is constant vigilance, and the price of a good
sail is the same. I have seen a mast snapped off clean at the deck by
a jibe, and once when out after ducks every one was so intent upon the
game that proper attention was not paid to the sail. The wind got
round and brought the boom with a swing aft, knocking the captain of
our boat club overboard. Had the boom hit him in the head and stunned
him, the result might have been fatal.
[Illustration: Fig. 132.--Boom hauled in.]
[Illustration: Fig. 133.--On new course.]
[Illustration: Fig. 131½.--Before the wind.]
[Illustration: Figs. 131½, 132, and 133.--Jibing.]
=Wing and Wing.=--When a schooner goes before the wind with one sail
out at nearly right angles on the port side and the other in the same
position on the starboard side she is said to be wing and wing and
presents a beautiful sight.
=Tacking.=--Working to the windward by a series of diagonal moves.
=Legs.=--The moves or diagonal courses made in tacking. It is apparent
to the most unthinking observer that no vessel propelled by sail can
move against the direct course of the wind--that is, nothing but
electricity, naphtha, steam, or some such power can drive a boat into
the eye of the wind. But what cannot be accomplished in a direct manner
can be done by a series of compromises, each of which will bring us
nearer to the desired point.
First we point the boat to the right or left, as the case may be, as
near or as close to the wind as the boat will sail. Then we come about
and sail in the other direction as close as practicable to the eye of
the wind, and each time we gain something in a direct line.
When your boat changes its direction on a tack it is done by "jibing,"
or "coming about."
=Jibing.=--With the wind on the quarter, haul the main boom aft or
amidship with all possible speed, by means of the main sheets (Fig.
132), and as the wind strikes the sail on the other side let it out as
deliberately as possible until it reaches the position desired (Fig.
133).
Beginners should never attempt to jibe, for if there is more than a
capful of wind, the sail will probably get away from them, and, as
described in going before the wind, some disaster is liable to occur.
Experts only jibe in light winds, and frequently lower the peak, so as
to reduce sail, before attempting a jibe.
Coming About
When you wish to come about see that all the tackle, ropes, etc., are
clear and in working order, and that you are making good headway; then
call out: "Helm's a-lee!" or "Ready about!" and push the tiller in the
direction opposite to that from which the wind blows--that is, to the
lee side of the boat. This will bring the bow around until the wind
strikes the sail upon the side opposite to that which it struck before
the helm was a-lee (Figs. 134, 135, 136, 137).
If you are aboard a sloop or schooner, ease off the jib-sheet, but keep
control of it, so that as the boat comes up to the wind you can make
the jib help the bow around by holding the sheets so as to catch the
wind aback. When the bow of the craft has passed the eye of the wind
and the sail begins to fill give the order to make fast, or trim, the
jib, and off you go upon the opposite tack, or on a new leg.
[Illustration: Figs. 134, 135, 136, and 137.--Coming about.]
If the wind is light, or if, for any cause, the boat works slowly, you
can sometimes help her by trimming in the main sheet when you let the
jib-sheet fly. In the diagram of coming about no jib is shown.
=Wearing= is a term sometimes used in place of jibing.
In a Thunder-storm
A thunder-storm is always an uncertain thing. There may be a veritable
tornado hidden in the black clouds that we see rising on the
horizon, or it may simply "iron out the wind"--that is, go grumbling
overhead--and leave us becalmed, to get home the best way we can;
generally by what the boys call a "white-ash breeze"--that is, by using
the sweeps or oars.
On Long Island Sound a thunder-storm seems to have certain fixed rules
of conduct. In the first place, it comes up from the leeward, or
_against the wind_. Just before the storm strikes you for an instant
the wind ceases and the sails flap idly. Then look out! for in nine
cases out of ten you are struck the next moment by a sudden squall from
exactly the opposite direction from which the wind blew a moment before.
What to Do
Make for the nearest port with all speed, and keep a man at the
downhaul ready at a moment's notice to lower sail. The moment the wind
stops drop the sail and make everything snug, leaving only bare poles.
When the thunder-squall strikes you, be it ever so hard, you are now in
little danger; and if the wind from the new quarter is not too fresh,
you can hoist sail again and make the best of your way to the nearest
port, where you can "get in out of the wet."
If the wind is quite fresh keep your peak down, and with a reefed sail
speed on your way. If it is a regular howler, let your boat drive
before the wind under bare poles until you can find shelter or until
it blows over, and the worst mishap you are likely to incur is a good
soaking from the rain.
=Shortening Sail.=--Just as soon as the boat heels over too far for
safety, or as soon as you are convinced that there is more wind than
you need for comfortable sailing, it is time to take a reef--that
is, to roll up the bottom of the sail to the row of little ropes, or
reefing points, on the sail and make fast there. This, of course, makes
a smaller sail, and that is what you wish.
While under way it will be found impossible to reef a sail except
when sailing close-hauled. So the boat is brought up into the wind by
pushing the helm down, as if you intended to come about. When possible
it is better to lower the sail entirely before attempting to put in a
reef.
To Reef Without Lowering Sail
It sometimes happens that on account of the proximity of a lee shore,
and the consequent danger of drifting in that direction, or for some
other equally good reason, it is inadvisable to lower sail and lose
headway. Under such circumstances the main sheet must be trimmed flat,
keeping the boat as close as possible to the wind, the helm must be put
up hard a-lee, and jib-sheet trimmed to windward (Fig. 138).
[Illustration: Fig. 138.--Squirming; jib on port side, boom
close-hauled on starboard side.]
When this is done the wind will hit the jib, "paying her head off," or
pushing her bow to leeward, and this tendency is counteracted by the
helm and mainsail, bringing the bow up into the wind. This keeps the
boat squirming. Lower the mainsail until the row of reef points is just
on a line with the boom, keeping to the windward of the sail. Tie the
first point--that is, the one on the luff rope--then the one on the
leach, being careful to stretch out the foot of the sail. Then tie the
remaining points, always making a square or reefing knot. Tie them to
the jack-stay on the boom or around the boom.
The Reef or Square Knot
is most frequently used, as its name implies, in reefing sails. First
make a plain overhand knot, as in Fig. 139. Then repeat the operation
by taking the end and passing it over and under the loop, drawing the
parts tight, as shown in Fig. 140. Care should be observed in crossing
the ends so that they will always lay fairly alongside the main parts.
Otherwise the knot will prove a _granny_ and be comparatively worthless.
[Illustration: Figs. 139 and 140.--Square or reef knot.]
To Shake Out a Reef
untie the knots, keeping to the windward of the sail. Untie the knot
at the leach first, next the one at the luff, and then the remaining
points. In lowering a sail you use a rope called the =downhaul=.
=Starboard Tack.=--When the main boom is over the port side.
=Port Tack.=--When the main boom is over the starboard side.
=Right of Way.=--All boats sailing on the starboard tack have the right
of way over all those on the port tack. In other words, if you are on
the starboard tack, those on the port tack must keep out of your way.
Any boat sailing close-hauled has the right of way over a boat sailing
free.
Lights for Canoe
A canoe under sail at night should have an uncolored lantern hung to
her mizzen-mast to notify other craft that she is out and objects to
being run down. The light is put on the mizzen so that it may be behind
the skipper and not dazzle him.
What you have read in the foregoing pages will not be found very
difficult to remember, but there is only one way to learn to sail and
that is by _sailing_. If possible, sail with some one who is a good
seaman. If this sort of companion cannot be had, try it alone on smooth
water and with short sail until you accustom yourself to the boat and
its peculiarities. No boy ever learned to skate or swim from books, but
books often have been helpful in giving useful hints to those who were
really learning by practical experience.
Some Do Nots
Do not overload the boat.
Do not carry too much sail.
Do not sail in strange waters without chart or compass.
Do not forget your anchor.
Do not forget your paddles or oars.
Do not attempt to learn to sail before you know how to swim.
Do not sit on the gunwale.
Do not put the helm down too suddenly or too far.
Do not let go the helm.
Do not mistake caution for cowardice.
Do not be afraid to reef.
Do not fear the ridicule of other landlubbers.
Do not fail to keep the halyards and sheets clear.
Do not jibe in a stiff wind.
Do not fail to keep your head in times of emergency.
Do not make a display of bravery until the occasion demands it.
Do not allow mistakes or mishaps to discourage you.
Do not associate with a fool who rocks a boat.
You will soon become an expert and be able to engage in one of our most
exhilarating, healthy, and manly sports and earn the proud distinction
of being a good small-boat sailor.
It is Necessary to Learn to Swim
From the parents' point of view, nowhere that a boy's restless nature
impels him to go is fraught with so much peril as the water, and
nowhere is a boy happier than when he is on the water, unless it is
when he is in it. Nowhere can be found a better school for his young
mind and body than that furnished by boating. Hence it appears to be
the imperative duty for parents personally to see that their children
are taught to swim as soon as their little limbs have strength enough
to make the proper motions.
Boating-Clothes
In aquatic sports of all kinds, if you expect to have fun, you must
dress appropriately. You should have a suit of old clothes that you
can change for dry ones when the sport is over. When boating, it is
nonsense to pretend you can keep dry under all the varying conditions
of wind and weather. If your purse is small, and you want a good
rowing-suit, it can be made of last winter's woollen underclothes, and
will answer for the double purpose of rowing and bathing.
How to Make a Bathing-Suit
First take an old woollen undershirt and cut the sleeves off above the
elbows. Then coax your mother, aunt, or sister to sew it up in front
like a sweater, and hem the edges of the sleeves where they have just
been cut off.
Next take a pair of woollen drawers and have them sewed up in front,
leaving an opening at the top about four inches in length; turn the
top edge down all around to cover a piece of tape that should be long
enough to tie in front. Have this hem or flap sewed down to cover the
tape, and allow the two ends of the tape to protrude at the opening
in front. The tape should not be sewed to the cloth, but should move
freely, so that you can tighten or loosen it at will. Cut the drawers
off at the knees and have the edges hemmed, and you will have a
first-class bathing or rowing-suit.
If woollen clothes are not to be had, cotton will do, but wool is
coolest and warmest, as the occasion may require.
When rowing wear old socks, woollen ones if you have them, and old
shoes cut down like slippers. The latter can be kicked off at a
moment's notice, and, if lost, they are of no value, and may be easily
replaced.
When on shore a long pair of woollen stockings to cover your bare
legs and a sweater to pull over your sleeveless shirt are handy and
comfortable, but while sailing, paddling, or rowing in hot weather the
rowing-suit is generally all that comfort requires. Of course, if your
skin is tender, you are liable to be terribly sunburned on your arms,
neck, and legs; but
Sunburn
may be avoided by gradually accustoming your limbs to the exposure.
Dearly will you pay for your negligence if you go out for a day with
bare arms or legs in the hot sun before you have toughened yourself,
and little will you sleep that night.
I have seen young men going to business the day following a regatta
with no collars on their red necks, and no shirt over their soft
undershirts, the skin being too tender to bear the touch of the stiff,
starched linen, and I have known others who could not sleep a wink on
account of the feverish state of their bodies, caused by the hot sun
and a tender skin. Most boys have had some experience from sunburn,
acquired while bathing. If care is taken to cover your arms and legs
after about an hour's exposure, you will find that in place of being
blistered, your skin will be first pink and then a faint brownish tint,
which each succeeding exposure will deepen until your limbs will assume
that dark, rich mahogany color of which athletes are so proud. This
makes your skin proof against future attacks of the hottest rays of the
sun.
Besides the pain and discomfort of a sudden and bad sunburn on your
arms, the effect is not desirable, as it is very liable to cover your
arms with freckles. I have often seen men with beautifully bronzed arms
and freckled shoulders, caused by going out in their shells first with
short sleeves and then with shirts from which the sleeves were entirely
cut away, exposing the white, tender shoulders to the fierce heat, to
which they were unaccustomed.
It is a good plan to cover the exposed parts of your body with
sweet-oil, vaseline, mutton-tallow, beef-tallow, or lard. This is good
as a preventive while in the sun, and excellent as an application after
exposure. Any sort of oil or grease that does not contain salt is good
for your skin.
Clothes for Canoeing
In canoeing I have found it convenient to dress as I would in a shell
boat, but I generally have had a sweater and a pair of long trousers
stowed away, ready to be pulled on over my rowing-clothes when I
landed. Once, when I neglected to put these extra clothes aboard, I
was storm-bound up Long Island Sound, and, leaving my boat, I took the
train home, but I did not enjoy my trip, for the bare legs and arms and
knit cap attracted more attention than is pleasant for a modest man.
Do not wear laced shoes in a canoe, for experience has taught
boating-men that about the most inconvenient articles of clothing to
wear in the water are laced shoes. While swimming your feet are of
absolutely no use if incased in this style of foot-gear, and all the
work must be done with the arms. But if you have old slippers, they may
be kicked off, and then you are dressed practically in a bathing-suit,
and can swim with comfort and ease.
Possibly these precautions may suggest the idea that a ducking is not
at all an improbable accident, and it must be confessed that the boy
who thinks he can learn to handle small boats without an occasional
unlooked-for swim is liable to discover his mistake before he has
become master of his craft.
Stick to Your Boat
Always remember that a wet head is a very small object in the water,
and liable to be passed by unnoticed, but that a capsized boat can
scarcely fail to attract attention and insure a speedy rescue from an
awkward position. As for the real danger of boating, it cannot be great
where care is used. Not one fatality has occurred on the water, among
all of my large circle of boating friends, and personally I have never
witnessed a fatal accident in all the years I have spent rowing and
sailing.
Life-Preservers
All canoes should have a good cork life-preserver in them when the
owner ventures away from land. I never but once ventured any distance
without one, and that is the only time I was ever in need of a
life-preserver. The ordinary cork jacket is best. It can be used for
a seat, and when spread on the bottom of your canoe, with an old
coat or some article thrown over it for a cushion, it is not at all
an uncomfortable seat. Most canoes have airtight compartments fore
and aft--that is, at both ends--and the boat itself is then a good
life-preserver. Even without the airtight compartments, unless your
boat is loaded with ballast or freight, there is no danger of its
sinking. A canvas canoe, as a rule, has enough woodwork about it to
support your weight when the boat is full of water.
An upset canvas canoe supported me for an hour and a half during a blow
on Long Island Sound, and had not a passing steamer rescued me, the
canoe would evidently have buoyed me up as long as I could have held on
to the hull.