In the year 1764, the Dolphin and Tamar, English ships-of-war, were
fitted out for the purpose of prosecuting discoveries in the South
Seas. Byron was commander-in-chief, and Captain Mouat commander under
him.
On the 3d of July, the commodore hoisted his broad-pendant, and they
sailed in prosecution of the voyage. On the 13th of September they
came to an anchor in the road of Rio de Janeiro, on the coast of
Brazil, when the commodore paid a visit to the governor, who received
him in state. They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, steering for
Cape Blanco, and on the 21st of November, entered the harbor of Port
Desire, and the commodore in his boat, attended by two other boats,
went to sound it. He landed, and they had a sight of four beasts, near
thirteen hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be
granicoes.
[Illustration: CITY OF ADELAIDE.]
[Illustration: BALTHURST, N. S. W.]
On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and on the 20th, ran
close in-shore to Cape Virgin Mary, and came to an anchor. The
commodore observed a number of men on horseback, riding to and fro,
opposite the ship, and waving something white, which he took to be an
ivitation to land; and as he was anxious to know what people these
were, he went in one boat with a party of men well armed; the first
lieutenant, with a separate party, following in another. When they
came near the shore, the whole appeared to amount to five hundred
persons, drawn up on a stony point of land that ran far into the sea.
Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians retreated:
he therefore made signs that one of them should come forward, which
was complied with. The one who advanced appeared to be chief, and was
over six feet in height; round one of his eyes was a circle of black
paint, and a white circle round the other; the rest of his face was
painted in streaks of various colors. He had the skin of a beast, with
the hair inwards, thrown over his shoulders. The commodore and the
Indian having complimented each other, in language equally
unintelligible to either, they walked together towards the main body
of the Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height
abovementioned, and the women were large in proportion.
On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Strait of Magellan,
with a view to take in a stock of wood and water. On the 26th, came to
anchor at Port Famine. In this place, they found drift-wood enough to
have supplied a thousand vessels. The quantity of fish that was daily
taken was equal to the supply of both the crews: and the commodore
shot as many geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his
own. On the 4th of January 1765, they sailed in search of Falkland’s
Islands.
On the 12th they saw land, and on the 14th a flat island, covered with
tufts of grass as large as bushes. Soon after this they entered
another harbor, to which Byron gave the name of Port Egmont. This
harbor is represented to be the finest in the world, and capacious
enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full security; there
is plenty of fresh water in every part of it, and geese, ducks,
snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the
sailors were tired with eating them. The commodore was once
unexpectedly attacked by a sea-lion, and extricated himself from the
impending danger with great difficulty; they had many battles with
this animal, the killing of one of which was frequently an hour’s work
for six men; one of them almost tore to pieces the commodore’s
mastiff-dog, by a single bite. The commodore took possession of the
harbor, and the adjacent islands, by the name of Falkland’s Islands.
On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont. Next day the
commodore gave the name of Berkley’s Sound to a deep inlet between the
islands. On the 6th of February stood in for Port Desire at the mouth
of which they came to anchor, and had the pleasure of seeing the
Florida, a store-ship, which they had expected from England. On the
20th, at Port Famine, received orders to sail for England.
Having narrowly escaped the dreadful effects of a storm on the 3d of
March, at length the Dolphin was moored in a little bay opposite Cape
Quod; and the Tamar about six miles to the eastward of it. On the 28th
the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against the rocks,
by the parting of the cables to her best bower-anchor. The Dolphin,
therefore, stood out again into the bay, and sent her proper
assistance, after which they both anchored for the night; a night the
most dreadful they had known. The winds were so violent as perfectly
to tear up the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts: a
dreadful sea rolled over them, and broke against the rocks, with a
noise as loud as thunder. Happily they did not part their cables, or
they must have been dashed in pieces against these rocks.
The ships came to anchor on the 4th of April, in a bay which had been
discovered, proposing to take in wood and water. While they were here,
several of the natives made a fire opposite the ship, on which signals
were made for them to come on board; but as they would not, the
commodore went on shore, and distributed some trifles which gave great
pleasure. Four were at length prevailed on to go on board; and the
commodore, with a view to their diversion, directed one of the
midshipmen to play on the violin, while some of the seamen danced. The
poor Indians were extravagantly delighted; and one of them to testify
his gratitude, took his canoe, and fetching some red paint, rubbed it
over the face of the musician; nor could the commodore, but with the
utmost difficulty, escape the like compliment.
They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and next day the wind blew a
hurricane. On the 9th, passed some dangerous rocks, which in
Narborough’s Voyage are called the Judges. This day a steady gale at
the southwest carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so that
by eight in the evening they were twenty leagues from the coast. On
the 26th, they sailed westward, and bore away for the island of
Massafuero and anchored at seven o’clock on Sunday morning.
On the 30th of April they sailed, and on the 7th of June discovered
land, being then in 14 deg. 5 min. south latitude, and 144 deg. 58
min. west longitude. The commodore steered for a small island, the
appearance of which was pleasing beyond expression. Several natives
ran along the beach, with long spears in their hands. The sailors made
every possible sign of friendship――but they retired to the woods,
dragging their canoes after them. The commodore proceeded to the other
island, and brought to, at three-quarters of a mile from the shore.
The natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using
threatening gestures. The commodore fired a cannon-shot over their
heads, on which they retreated to the woods. This paradise in
appearance, was named the Island of Disappointment.
Quitting these on the 8th of June, they discovered an island on the
day following, low, and covered with various kinds of trees, among
which was the cocoa-nut, and surrounded with a rock of red coral. They
now sailed to the westward, and soon discovered another island,
distant four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double
canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the
boats were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were
chased by the canoes; on which the commodore making a signal, the
boats turned towards the Indians, who instantly pulled down their
sails, and rowed away with great rapidity. On the 12th of June, sailed
to another island, and as they coasted along it, the natives, armed as
those of the other islands, kept even with the ship for some leagues.
This island is situated in 14 deg. 41 min. S. latitude, and 149 deg.
15 min. W. longitude; and both the islands the commodore called King
George’s Islands. The boats having returned on board, they sailed
westward the same day; and the next afternoon descried another island,
towards which they immediately sailed, and found that it was well
inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure; but that a violent
surf broke all along the coast. It lies in 15 deg. south latitude, and
161 deg. 53 min. west longitude, and received the name of the Prince
of Wales’ Island.
On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the Duke
of York’s Island. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place
itself had a pleasing appearance. On the 29th sailed northward, with a
view to cross the equinoctial line, and then sail for the Ladrone
Islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island,
abounding with the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a most
agreeable prospect. A great number of natives were seen on the beach,
many of whom, in about sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a
circle round the ships; which having surveyed for a considerable time,
one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up
its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most
violently: he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay
hands on, which was taken from him as fast as stolen. This man having
as many antic tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and
trousers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit
with great eagerness, and having played the buffoon for some time,
made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side of the ship, and
swimming to his companions. These Indians are of a bright copper, with
regular and cheerful features, and are tall and well made. One of
them, who seemed to be one of some rank, wore a string of human teeth
round his waist. Some carried a long spear, the sides of which, for
the length of three feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark,
which are as keen as a razor. The officers named this place Byron’s
island, in honor of the commodore. It lies in 1 deg. 18 min. S.
latitude, and 173 deg. 46 min. E. longitude. They sailed hence on the
3d of July, and on the 28th had sight of the islands Saypan, Tinian,
and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other.
At noon, on the 31st, anchored at the south-west end of Tinian. The
water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though one hundred
and forty-four feet deep, they could see the bottom. The commodore
went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left the
preceding year by the Spaniards. The commodore remained at Tinian till
the 30th of September, by which time the sick being tolerably well
recovered, he weighed anchor and stood to the northward.
On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the island of
Timoan, on which Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who
are Malays, no sooner saw the boat approaching the shore, than many of
them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in
one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s crew, however,
made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a
goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.
Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen
at anchor in the harbor of an island, named Pulo Toupoa, Byron having
anchored in the same harbor, and observed that the vessel hoisted
Dutch colors, sent an officer on board, who was received with great
politeness. The commodore sailed the following day, and held his
course till the 19th, when he spoke with an English snow, bound from
Bencoolen to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s service.
At this time their biscuit was filled with worms, and rotten, and
their beef and pork were unfit to eat. The master of the snow being
apprized of the circumstance, sent Byron two gallons of arrack, a
turtle, twelve fowls and a sheep. During their run hence to Prince’s
Island, in the strait of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with
turtle, by boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors
subsisted wholly on that fish. They staid at Prince’s Island till the
19th, when they sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 13th of
February they came to anchor, and were treated with great politeness
by the governor.
They sailed on the 7th of March, and, on the 25th, crossed the
equinoctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder
of the Tamar, and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it
at sea, the captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua; in
consequence of which they parted company on the 1st of April; and the
Dolphin, without meeting with any other material occurrence, came to
an anchor in the Downs, on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been
little more than twenty-two months in the circumnavigation of the
globe.