_Customs at Meals._
The food of the ancient Romans was of the simplest kind; they rarely
indulged in meat, and wine was almost wholly unknown. So averse were
they to luxury, that epicures were expelled from among them. But when
riches were introduced by the extension of conquest, the manners of the
people were changed, and the pleasures of the table became the chief
object of attention.
Their principal meal was what they called _coena_ or supper. The usual
time for it was the ninth hour, or about three o'clock in the afternoon.
While at meals, they reclined on sumptuous couches of a semicircular
form, around a table of the same shape. This custom was introduced from
the nations of the east, and was at first adopted only by the men, but
afterwards allowed also to the women.
The dress worn at table differed from that in use on other occasions,
and consisted merely of a loose robe of a slight texture, and generally
white.
Before supper the Romans bathed themselves, and took various kinds of
exercise, such as tennis, throwing the discus or quoit, riding, running,
leaping, &c.
Small figures of Mercury, Hercules and the penates, were placed upon the
table, of which they were deemed the presiding genii; and a small
quantity of wine was poured upon the board, at the commencement and end
of the feast, as a libation in honor of them, accompanied by a prayer.
As the ancients had not proper inns for the accommodation of travellers,
the Romans, when they were in foreign countries, or at a distance from
home, used to lodge at the houses of certain persons whom they in return
entertained at their houses in Rome. This was esteemed a very intimate
connexion, and was called _hospitium_, or _jus hospitii_: hence _hospes_
is put both for a host and a guest.