VAN AND CAB HARNESS.
The making of a set of gig harness is described in the companion
volume “Saddlery.” Van harness for heavy work requires a set
of furniture, including buckles, hames, and chains, and a van
saddle-tree. The furniture should be of brass, nickel, or silver.
Burgess’s patent tug buckles (Fig. 163, p. 121) can be recommended
for shaft tugs.
A pair of winker plates of any pattern (see Figs. 180 and 181) are
necessary to make the winkers. Beginning with the winkers, cut the
leather about ¼ in. wider than the plate all round, except at the
back, where it must be ⅞ in. wider. If patent leather is used, make
a line all round the edge, and another about ½ in. from it, and race
a line across, 1½ in. from the back part, from one end of the inner
line to the end of the other; of course, the other lines must not be
brought nearer than this to the back. Prick along the lines, about
eleven per inch, and single stitch the inner line all round the four
sides, through the leather, employing black linen thread double, with
two needles.
Cut the lining to the same size as the top, but lightly stuffed and
with little oil in; put the top on it and stitch all round three
sides, leaving the back open. Put the leather in water and wet it
thoroughly, and then, having opened out the two leathers with the
hand, put a good coat of paste on both of the inner sides by the aid
of a spoon or other convenient implement.
Push in the winker plate front to front; but if the front is round
cornered, it must, of course, be put in first. Push in the pieces
until they lie square in the leather and close to the front stitches;
then rub the top and the lining down to the sheet iron, being careful
to make the lining stick well to the sheet.
Place the winker on a board, lining underneath, and tack down each of
the hind corners, and if necessary, the middle; then put some paper
or rags between the winker and the board so as to keep the lining up
to the sheet. When quite dry and perfectly adhering, remove them from
the board, trim the edges, finish and polish well.
The collar is made practically in the same way as a cart collar. The
forewale must be turned down 2 in., that is 4 in. altogether, and
instead of whipping the basil lining in as previously described,
cut it a little smaller, and stitch it in at the same time as the
forewale; tack it down in such a manner that when the lining is
turned over to stuff the body, the stitches will not be visible. Take
a pattern (see Fig. 96, p. 79) and let the lining overlap in the
centre of the forewale for quite 2 in. Stitching is done as for a
cart collar, both for the forewale and the drawing in the body, but
the last must not be so big and clumsy.
In making and setting the top piece, no stitches should appear in
front other than the cross row; the top piece must not be joined
downwards as in the other. Turn in the bottom of the top piece for ½
in. across, and stitch a line with black linen thread ¼ in. from the
edge to keep the turn in its place. Damp the top piece, put it across
the front, and draw it tight, putting a tack in both sides; then make
it overlap at the top centre of the back so as to obtain a good point
to hold the hame strap in place; then stitch all round the hollow.
Cut the side piece close along the sides of the body to fit tight by
the forewale. Then take a piece of soft thin leather binding 1¼ in.
wide, damp it, and place it edge to edge with the outside of the
side piece, tacking it down. Having stitched the side piece, putting
a small welt at the joint at the bottom, and shaving a little round
the edges, stitch the binding and side piece together around the edge
with black linen thread, about seven stitches per inch. Run a piece
of twine along the stitches round the rim, and turn down the binding
over the twine towards the inside, being careful to keep the twine in
place. Mark a line and prick it, about eight per inch, and ⅜ in. from
the edge; then stitch the binding down below the twine. The last must
be in one piece with 4 in. or 5 in. to spare at each end.
[Illustration: Fig. 180.]
[Illustration: Fig. 181.]
Figs. 180 and 181.—Winkers.
Damp the side piece and adjust it; tack it with an awl at the bottom
and draw it tight at the top. Now wax a piece of collar twine, about
18 in. longer than is necessary to pass round the collar, and begin
to stitch the side piece in at the top on the off side, running the
stitches through the binding close to the stitching and through the
lining at every other stitch. The stitches may be about 2 in. long;
draw them tight while working, and be careful that the side piece
is in its proper position, with both sides equally level. Fasten
the thread after stitching the side piece all round. Take hold of
the hanging ends of the twine which has been run along the binding
inside, and pull them well to draw down the edges of the side-piece
along the side of the body; then knot and fasten them together. Draw
in the side piece at the forewale as with the cart collar, using only
thread or very fine white lace.
A layer of old carpet may be placed on the stitches next to the body
under the side piece to give the sides smoothness and roundness.
Fasten the two side pieces together at the top by stitching over from
one to the other with the collar needle.
A small housing to cover the top of the collar must be cut, almost
half-round in shape, but with slightly widening points and a V-shaped
notch on the side next the collar for the points to pass, one on each
side of the top piece; bring it down close to the forewale. It may be
bound in the same style as the side piece, stitched fast edge to edge
with the binding, the latter being then turned and a line stitched
round a short distance from the edges; about ¾ in. below that another
row of stitches is made all round. The point on the outside of the
body must not project more than about ¼ in.
Plain or patent leather can be employed to make the collar and
winkers; patent leather must always be marked for stitching with the
race compass, and a groove cut so that the patent will be raced off
and the line quite visible. This kind of leather, when used to make
the collar forewale, must be lined with calico to prevent it cracking.
The van saddle (Fig. 182) is the next part to be made. The tree is
a miniature cart-saddle tree, with similar boards and groove. The
plates to be put in the point of the groove where the backband runs
through may be nickel or brass to match the furniture. Begin work by
fixing the terrets and bearing-rein stand hook on the tree. Take off
the sockets which are attached to the screws, and see that they are
of the proper length to reach over the groove of the tree from side
to side; file them down to the width of the tree if they are too
long. Place the stand-hook socket exactly in the centre at the top,
and mark its position on each side and end.
Cut out a hollow at the mark deep enough for the socket to enter
and lie flush with the surface, and drive a small screw through
each socket into the tree. The terret sockets are fixed in the same
manner, being sunk level and screwed down, about 3½ in. lower than
the stand hook on each side.
[Illustration: Fig. 182.]
[Illustration: Fig. 183.]
[Illustration: Fig. 184.
Fig. 182.—Van Saddle. Fig. 183.—Van Saddle Flap. Fig. 184.—Van Saddle
Panel.]
Cut two pieces of thin leather, either plain or patent, to the same
shape as each side of the tree and about 1 in. larger each way. Damp
them and make a nick at the top of the boards in the leather so that
the centre of the piece will turn down underneath. Tack each end of
the leather to the board close to the tree, then pull it tightly
along the entire surface of the side over the top, nailing it here
and there. Level it down on the surface of the tree, and tack the
centre part between the boards underneath the tree, pulling it tight
and flat over all parts.
To make the flaps, cut out a paper pattern as a guide (see Fig. 183),
making it wider at the top than at the other parts and slightly
raised in front. The flaps must reach down from the lower part of the
groove in the centre for about 15 in., swelling slightly at the sides
and gradually narrowing to about 2 in. at the bottom. The patterns
may also be cut straight without the swelling sides, but in both
styles they must rise in front more than at the back; as they are cut
in two pieces, one for each side, this can easily be managed, because
when they are joined at the top this part will stand out prominently
in front.
Some flaps are made with stout firm leather, others are lined. In the
first case, make two rows along the sides with the race compass and
bevel deep with a hot bevel; but patent leather, instead of needing
the race compass, has tallow rubbed along the part to be creased and
the lines are marked with the compass; then run a warm beveller deep
along the marks, being careful that it does not cut the leather.
When patent or plain leather is lined, use the race compass and prick
the grooves for stitching. When stitched (or made without lining),
cut and polish the edges well and join them with a stitch at the
top; place a piece of leather over the joint at the front about 1¼
in. wide, and stitch it on both sides of the joint and across the
front; then shave it thin at the side next the tree. A dee, of brass
or other metal, is placed on the outside for fastening the crupper.
Cover the joint at the back with another piece of leather, turning
it down on the outside and shaving the other end thin. These pieces
should be long enough on both sides to pass under the tree when the
flaps are nailed. On these the tree is placed centre to centre and
front to front, and a line is marked along the sides of the tree from
board to board on the leather.
Make a mark at the lower side of the board to indicate the width
of the tree there, and the width of the wood on both sides of the
groove. Note that this must be marked at the bottom side of the
boards, four marks being made at each end of the tree, outside and
inside the wood on each side of the groove.
At this point take away the tree, and cut a slit from the outer
lower mark to the point of the one running along the side of the
tree; there will then be two slits of the width of the board, one on
each side of the tree. Now cut upwards from each of the two inner
marks at the bottom, for the length of the other cuts and equal in
width to the wood, on both sides of the groove. Then cut across the
top of each incision from side to side; there will now be one cross
cut and four cuts upward, and a portion along the centre. Cut the
middle piece between the four slits at each end about 1½ in. from the
bottom, and shave the points; now cut the two narrow strips at each
end to the same length.
The middle piece, unless there are plates, is nailed along the groove
with the narrow cuts underneath. Place flaps over the top and make
the edges of the centre slit meet at the centre of the tree below.
Nail the flaps down along the edge of the tree, putting four or five
extra nails opposite the crupper loop in its chape. When there is no
plate, nail the centre piece in the bottom along the groove; put the
narrow pieces down and nail them with the brass beading, making sure
that the part of the flaps over the boards runs close to the tree;
fasten it to the boards with four or five tacks. Turn the centre
piece down like the narrow ones, and nail it to the board at each end.
Cut a top cover of strong leather of the same width as the tree and
to reach to within 2½ in. from the bottom, so that there will be an
opening for the backband; crease it across both ends and bevel the
creases with a hot iron, or line both ends for about 2 in. and shave
the inner side; then make two rows of stitching across the points.
Place it on the tree in its proper position, and give two or three
light taps with a hammer opposite the three openings for the terrets
and stand hooks in the sockets; thus the size and position of the
holes is marked on the cover.
Holes, of the same dimensions as the socket holes, must now be cut in
the cover, and this nailed down on both sides of the tree, keeping
the holes in the leather exactly opposite those for the sockets. A
strong nail must be driven into each corner so that it will not be
prized up by the backband. Take a piece of beading long enough to run
along the top on each side and go down underneath through the opening
opposite the narrow cuts in the bottom; nail the beading on the side
of the boards or under them, securing in the same way the narrow
turned-down strip. The beading should lie close to the leather along
the top of the tree; drive the nails for the beading with a wooden
mallet.
The saddle is now ready for the panel (Fig. 184, p. 131), the back of
which must be cut to the same size as the flaps; it must not reach
quite to the bottom; let it end, say, 2 in. from it. Basil can be
employed as material, and if this is light, a piece of linen can be
pasted inside, or a narrow slip may be pasted along the edges. When
dry, see again that it is of the same size and shape. The facing must
be cut about 1⅛ in. wide, and of the same length as the sides of the
panel; it may be in patent or plain leather to match the flaps.
When the material is not long enough it may be cut into two parts and
joined at the centre; it is then tacked along the edges and stitched
for about six inches. Rub the joint down as flat as possible. Take
some blue serge lining or collar lining and lay it out smooth on the
bench, and place the panel back on it inside out; with hemp, tack
it along the sides to the lining, cutting the latter to the same
shape as the back, but wider by 1¾ in. or more on both sides at the
top. The lining then tapers to exactly the same width as the base at
the extreme point. Narrow the lining at the gullet and, just at the
back in the centre opposite the opening to be left, turn it in about
¼ in.; run a stitch to keep it down, and then whip it in with the
facing from end to end and across the bottom, employing black linen
thread and a pointed needle and thimble. No facing is placed across
the bottom.
Now turn the panel inside out through the opening at the top; the
joint is not stitched right across, only two or three stitches being
used at each end. Some piping is now needed to run round the facing
to make both sides of the panel front stand out round and straight.
Sometimes the facing is made of straw whipped round with hemp until
it is hard and round; sometimes with damp brown paper rolled with
both hands on the bench; or a simple cord of light twist may be
employed, and, in America, cane. In harness of this description,
cord will suffice; it may be covered with brown paper to about ⅝ in.
in diameter. Place it in the facing through the opening at the top,
making it reach to the bottom at each side but not across. Turn the
facing tightly over it and begin to spot from the back, the stitches
being small and even on the lined side.
While working, the panel should be kept flat on the bench, the
lining being uppermost and being stitched close to the facing with a
quilting needle and thimble. Then place the lining flat and even at
the top, parting it alike on both sides and running a line of cross
stitches from side to side on both sides of the joining at the back,
to about 1½ in. apart at the back and about 4 in. in the front.
The panel is now in two compartments. Cut two openings across it, one
on each side, below the line of stitches just made, and one to cross
them; then stuff the panel with carded flock through these openings,
the stuffing-stick being employed for the purpose. Fill it level from
top to bottom, but not too full.
Next mark, say, six cross lines, about 1½ in. apart, from the bottom
of the panel towards the top, a rule being used as a guide. Take a
long three-cord black hemp thread made with beeswax and quilt it,
making four stitches or so in each line; use a thimble and quilting
needle. Keep the stitches in a straight line both downwards and
crosswise, and when the last line is reached, make two stitches from
back to front, thus leaving the last line half finished. Now flatten
it over the stitches and stuff the top to the requisite thickness,
taking care to make it firm, though not hard, otherwise it will
become very thin when pressure bears on it. Place the panel to the
centre of the tree and flaps, and put a tack on each side at the top
to retain it in this position. Some harness makers run five or six
stitches through the flap and panel here and there, others spot them
all the way along; but the best method is to put the panel in with
copper wire.
Stitching or spotting might do for common work, small stitches being
put in spotting on the flap side and about 1¼ in. apart below. The
stitches, whether spotting or stitching double-handed, should run
out in the hollow between the facing and stuffing below. Keep the
facing even along the edge of the flap a little outside rather than
underneath.
To fasten a panel, cut the wire into pieces about 5 in. long, and
with a bent awl cut holes underneath the flaps close by the outer row
of stitches, all at the same distance from the outside. Then place
a piece of wire in each, and, if for a gig or cab saddle, nail the
panel in the centre on both sides; but in the case of a van saddle,
nails need not be employed; simply wire it all round. Keep the panel
right in the centre and fasten a wire in the top, on each side, by
cutting a hole with the bent awl for each point of the wire just
below the facing. Put one wire in each hole and push the panel close
to the flap; then twist the wire on the panel side with a pair of
pincers till the panel is pulled tight to the flap. Give the wire a
sharp twist with its points together, and cut them within ¼ in. of
the panel; turn down the points and press them out of sight into the
hollow between the panel and the facing, repeating the process along
both sides with the wire about 2½ in. apart.
A strap and a girth are needed to fasten to the bottom of the flaps.
Cut the girth 2 ft. long and 2 in. wide, and have a lay to put on
about 9 in. by 1¼ in. Make a buckle hole in the lay so that the edge
of the buckle will be level with the end of the girth, as the chape
is not to be turned down, but is stitched on the flat.
A strong strap must now be cut 18 in. by 1¼ in., rounded at one end
and shaved at the other, and another piece of leather 2 in. by 4½
in., with one end shaved and the other narrowed to 1¼ in.; edge,
black, and crease both. Tack the lay on the girth with the buckle
level to the end, and narrow the girth to the width of the lay at the
point; then place two loops beyond the buckle and stitch the lay. In
the next place, the shaved end of the strap must be stitched to the
4½ in. piece, the strap being placed within 1 in. of the broad end.
Finish the loops, punch the straps, and stitch them, the strap on the
near side and the girth on the off side at the base of the flaps, the
stitches running across and in a half circle from corner to corner.
The winkers by this time will be dry and fit to work as part of the
bridle. Straighten the outside—that is, the part to be stitched—if it
has got a little out of shape in wetting and nailing. Rub the other
edges with sandpaper and give them a fine polish; then shave the side
for the cheek.
Having got four ¾-in. buckles ready for the cheeks, cut the latter 2
ft. 9 in. by ¾ in. and measure 1 ft. from the better end, marking it
across for a billet. Now round its point and measure 8 in. from the
first mark; turn it down there, and again turn it down 8 in. from the
bend. Make a buckle hole in each bend, and edge, black, and crease
along the billet part. Make a groove with a round knife or grooving
tool underneath on the billet side from the cross mark to within ¼
in. of the top bend, the depth of the groove being about half the
thickness of the leather; open it out with the point of a blunt
compass or anything suitable.
The buckles can now be fixed, one in each bend, and the winkers
can also be placed between the cheek up to the buckles at the top
bend and level with the outside. Cut a small nick just opposite the
projection of the buckle tongue so that the winker will ascend on
the top end close to the buckle. See that the point of the turn-down
running from the base bend is cut level with the bottom of the
winker, and run a stitch through both, making the point fit tightly
in the hollow between the lower buckle and the winker.
Place three tacks on the outer side to keep the edges together in
their places. Make one loop for each from medium heavy winker brown
loop leather about 7 in. by 1⅜ in.; damp it well and place it in half
the width of the cheek on the inner side and stitch along the groove.
Adjust the two sides in the same manner, reversing the winker to pair
them.
The loops having been damped before being attached, place a
loop-stick ¾ in. wide in each loop; then knock them square and level
to shape. Black them with soda and dye, dry partially with rag, and
rub and polish well with a bone, making them shine brightly. Now
trim the underside of the cheek, round the square edges, and polish.
Apply a coat of Harris’s harness liquid both to the loops and to the
edges; rub them well with the palm of the hand and then with a little
tallow, after which they must be again rubbed with a rag.
The loops are now ready for creasing and checking, but in the first
place make sure that the loops are in condition; if too dry, they
cannot be creased deeply enough, and if too wet the bevels and marks
cannot be polished. Test with a hot crease and then hold them near
the fire a little while; finally rub with the hand until they are dry
enough. Attention must also be given to the temperature of the tools
when heated in the fire, candle, or gas. Therefore, keep on the bench
a small quantity of water into which to dip the heated tools; if the
beveller or checker hisses in the water it must be kept there until
this ceases.
Now with the screw crease or compass make two or three lines across
each end of the loop, and two rows near each other along the edges
on the face. Trace out the design on the surface between the outer
lines, namely diamonds, single arrow point, or double arrow points,
etc. Having warmed the beveller, mark deeply the cross and outside
lines, polish them, and then mark the outer lines of the design with
the beveller on the surface of the loop.
The space between the outer lines of the design and the straight
lines at the edge and sides must now be marked with the warm checker,
which may be fine or coarse, according to the style of work; the
design also will vary with the fineness or coarseness of the work.
The checking being finished, run the beveller along all the outer
lines in the design and the straight line, to smooth down the checker
marks running to the bevelled lines and to give boldness to the work.
The noseband is made by cutting the leather 2 ft. 8 in. long by 1
in.; it must then be marked 5 in. from the point and again at a
distance of ⅞ in. from this mark; then a third mark is made 13 in.
farther on, and a fourth ⅞ in. from the last mark. Turn down 2 in. of
the end marked last for the buckle; take ⅛ in. from each end and each
side as far as the cross mark nearest the ends. Make a buckle hole
and shave, bend, and round the other end for the point. Cut another
piece for a lining, taking the first as a pattern, and then thin the
edges of both, slanting from the middle of the strap on both sides,
but do not thin the ⅞-in. space in either piece.
[Illustration: Fig. 185.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
The first piece of leather that was cut with a buckle hole can now
be damped; then with a grooving board and hammer handle a groove is
made along the full length, not including the two ⅞-in. spaces. Now
cut a hole in the outer side of each of the cross lines, marking two
spaces, and cut two loops about ⅜ in. by 2 in. Shave the points,
damp, and put one end in each hole over the ⅞-in. space; beat the
points a little to flatten them to the leather, and leave sufficient
space for the billet to pass between the loops and the noseband.
Crease the noseband on both sides from end to end, ⅛ in. from the
edge, and, if required, another line can be made at the same distance
farther in from opening to opening in the centre only. Prick the
lines all along except opposite the openings, fine or coarse,
according to the style of work, and then put the lining underneath
and the buckle in its place. Tack it here and there with fine tacks
and with three-cord fine hemp stitch from end to end, around the
point, and across at the end of the centre loops to fasten the loops
near the openings.
Stitch a second line if needed, and then the buckle chape from
underneath, and put in one or two loops. Trim the edges, sandpaper,
black them, and polish; then place sticks in the loops and finish,
making four holes in the short end.
The next part of the harness to be described is the front or forehead
band. Begin work by cutting it 21 in. by 1 in., bend it down to pass
easily round a 1½ in. strap, and then mark it across the length of
the required opening. See that there are 13 in. between the two cross
marks in the centre and sufficient to stitch down the ends beyond the
openings; shave the points and stitch down the ends from the cross
lines to the points.
[Illustration: Fig. 186.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
It can be covered with fancy coloured or striped cloth or leather and
herring-bone stitched along the centre underneath, making a cross
at each end; or a chain front (Figs. 185 to 187) can be employed.
In the last case a piece of patent leather must be cut of the same
length as the front from one cross line to the other and of the same
width as the forehead band; adjust the chain and stitch along its
centre, taking the thread out at one side of the chain, and running
it through the link and down on the other side close by the chain,
and so on through every link; at each end through the link joint make
a little chape and stitch double through it when the patent leather
is being adjusted to the forehead band.
Now mark a line along the edges of the patent leather outside the
chain and prick it fine, laying on the patent leather from opening to
opening, and stitching double with beeswaxed linen thread and a fine
awl. Stitch the patent leather across also at the ends, catching the
above-mentioned little chapes. Then pare, sandpaper, black, and well
polish the edges.
To make the head-piece, cut the leather 1½ in. wide and 1 ft. 10 in.
long; slit it 6 in. at each end, and edge, black, and rub it well,
and then crease it with a hot creaser close to the edge and at both
sides of the slits. Now cut a ¾-in. chape, long enough to clasp the
buckle and the head-piece and to reach no farther than the far side.
Make a buckle hole in it, and edge, black, crease, and finally prick
it.
Cut a loop ½ in. wide, trim it and place the chape in the buckle,
tacking it exactly in the centre of the head-piece, after having
cut a small nick exactly in the centre for the projecting tongue to
enter. Stitch it in place, running a line across at the end opposite
the buckle; then make four holes in each of the slits.
The winker strap is made as follows: Cut it from stiff leather 1½
in. by 13 in. long and remove the centre piece with a punch at the
top of the slit, the last being 7½ in. by ½ in. Beginning at the
slit, gradually narrow the other part to ¾ in. wide to run to the
head-piece buckle at the top. Crease, black, and rub well with a hot
iron and make three punch holes at the pointed end. Take the winkers
and open a small slit by cutting the stitches between the leather at
the top corner in the front; put a ½-in. length of the slit in each
winker and stitch the points there firmly.
All that is now required to complete the bridle is the throat lash;
make it 2 ft. 3 in. by ¾ in. and turn it down at each end to 1 ft. 8
in.; then make buckle holes in the bend and shave the points. Edge,
black, crease and rub well, prick the bend, and put in the buckles
with the bearing-rein swivels, one at each extremity. Having made a
loop or two between the buckles and swivels, stitch down the chapes,
going below the swivel sufficiently to keep it in place.
Put the bridle together by passing the ends of the front piece into
the rosette loops, and placing one slit of the head strap on each
side of the rosette loops at both ends of the front piece, the centre
buckle at the top pointing in the same direction as the front. Secure
the winker strap at the top buckle, and both inner slits of the head
strap in the top buckle of the cheeks; then pass the billet through
the noseband opening. Make sure that the noseband is buckled on the
near side, and then put the billets through the cheek of the bit and
up again through the loops on the outside of the noseband and cheek
buckle.
[Illustration: Fig. 187.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
The throat lash must now be buckled on the off side and the strap
passed through the loop on the near side; the noseband being buckled,
the bridle is finished. It may be coated with liquid blacking or
composition before it is put together, and the buckles and rosettes
can be cleaned with paste and washleather or a clean soft rag.
To make a bearing rein a middle piece must be cut 6 ft. by ¾ in.;
finish it and bend 2 in., making it ready for a buckle. Shave the end
thin and cut it to a point; if two buckles are employed both ends
must be prepared alike, but with only one buckle one end must be
pricked for stitching to the ring of the round part. Cut the round
parts 1⅜ in. wide and 2 ft. long; turn them down and narrow them to
¾ in. at one end, the turned-down part being 2 in. long. Turn down
about 1 in. at the other end and prepare it for a buckle, shaving
the point thin; then damp round the central part, bring the edges
together, and cut a groove on each side to sink the stitches.
With a blunt point, open the groove before stitching and have a piece
of cord thick enough to fill the inside and 1 in. longer at each
end; unravel it at the ends and thin the strands by pulling off some
of the material with an awl. Run one end of the cord through the
bearing-rein ring for an inch and whip it round with waxed hemp so
that it will be secured there.
Open the strands at the other end and put half of them on each side
of the buckle tongue at the part which will be in the leather; whip
this again fast to the buckle and see that it is of the right length
inside the round to reach tightly from the buckle to the ring when in
its place. It is now necessary to put the ring in the long bend and
the buckle in the short one.
Now cut a billet 9 in. by ¾ in., and after shaving one end thin,
round the other and prepare and crease it. Put it in the billet and
a loop, and stitch the other end fine in the ring; stitch the round
along the groove, being careful to have the thread in the centre of
the groove at both sides and to catch the points of the turn-down at
the ring and the point of the billet in the other end, between the
edges of the round part, making two or three stitches in each, thus
joining them firmly with the round part. Then with the spokeshave
trim them round and neat, rub with coarse glasspaper, and finish with
fine; close the edges of the groove well over the stitches and try to
make it look as much as possible like one round, solid piece.
After well blacking and polishing the bearing rein, give it a coat of
liquid blacking, polishing by sharp rubbing; finish neatly around the
ring and buckle, crease the loops, and make one or two holes in the
billets.
Now prepare the middle part. When there are two buckles, begin by
punching a dozen holes within 9 in. of each end; with one buckle of
course only one end is punched. Five running loops large enough to
pass over the strap double must now be made, as explained. When they
are finished and polished, put the two points together through one
of the loops and pull that loop to within 2 in. from the top; fix a
buckle on each side and two loops after each buckle with the right
side out. Now run the points through the rings to the buckle and put
a chape in place, fastening the buckle in about the sixth hole from
the end and leaving the chape unstitched. Then pull one loop over the
chape close to the buckle and the other loop down to the ring on each
side.
To make the crupper, cut out the body 2 ft. by 1¾ in. and slit it
for 8 in. at the strongest end; taper the other end to 1¼ in. wide
and cut a 1¼-in. billet 3 ft. 9 in. long. Shave the strong end thin
and round the other; cut the lay 16 in. by 1¼ in. and shave one end,
rounding the other. The points of the slits and the end of the body
must also be shaved, the slit points being tapered. Black and crease
them all, only the top of the lay being edged.
Place the round end of the lay close to the slit end, in the centre
of the body, and 4 in. from the round end make a deep cross line
followed by three other lines at intervals of 2 in., and at the same
distance from the fourth line cut a hole for the buckle; then put an
awl at each corner formed by the cross lines into both lay and body
so as to make a mark visible below; there will thus be a guide for
use when stitching underneath to indicate where to begin and end.
Cut a groove from the shaved end of the body as far as the first awl
mark below, then from the second to the third, and finally from the
fourth to a distance of about 1 in. towards the point of the lay;
this groove must be made on the underside. Cut through one half the
thickness of the leather at a sufficient distance from the edge to
catch the lay on both sides in stitching. Now adjust the buckle and
lay once again, and then trim four loops about ⅝ in. wide and place
one before the buckle, a second on the other side before reaching the
first opening, another between the two openings, and, finally, the
fourth beyond the lash.
The lay must be stitched in from the underside with double waxed
thread, a cross stitch being made at the corners of each opening and
the thread being brought straight over the opening to the opposite
corner without cutting. Stitch over the loop at the slit end, but no
farther, the remainder being stitched fine round the end from above.
It is better to stitch the crupper lay from below because it will
then be smoother and the stitches will not be so likely to rub the
hair off as when they are on the surface, there being much friction
at this part. Having placed the stick in the loops, finish with the
hot iron, making a running loop for the billet.
The dock (Fig. 188) that is placed under the tail is made of soft
close-grained leather, 1 ft. 3 in. in length, and tapered from the
centre on each side to about ⅞ in. when doubled over at the points.
Groove it carefully along the edges at a slight distance therefrom,
and stitch it loosely with three-cord fine hemp, about six per inch,
merely pulling the stitches home; then damp it well.
[Illustration: Fig. 188.]
[Illustration: Fig. 189.]
[Illustration: Fig. 190.]
[Illustration: Fig. 191.
Fig. 188.—Crupper Dock.
Fig. 189.—Breeching, etc.
Fig. 190.—Back-band.
Fig. 191.—Shaft Tugs.
]
Having a pint of whole linseed near at hand, drive a nail through
one end to close the opening, and then, placing the linseed on the
apron, scoop it in with the open end and ram the dock tight from
end to end with a stick or iron rod till it is filled. Take one end
in each hand and twist the piece to a round shape, endeavouring to
bring the stitches on the lower side. Knock the two ends with nails
in them into a flat board, and keeping the centre on the board, raise
both sides and draw them as close together as possible with a piece
of soft leather tied around them. Then allow them to dry and trim the
stitched part and sand it, rounding it with the other parts; polish
well, thin the top sides of the points, and knock them flat with the
hammer. Stitch one to each slit of the crupper body for about ¾ in.,
finish the edges, and put about a dozen holes in the billet.
To make the breeching (Fig. 189), cut the leather 7 ft. 6 in. by 1¾
in., and turn it in 4 in. at the better end, so that it will be 3 ft.
8 in. long when double. If the lower part is too long, cut it off,
allowing about 2 in. for splicing, and shave both ends. Both edges
must now be shaved on the inside of the top and bottom so as to slant
outwards; damp the top from one bend to the other. Round it on the
large groove of the grooving board, crease it along both edges, and
prick it eight per inch. If the bend seems too weak for the rings
these can be lined. Cut a strip of leather or an old rein, 1 in.
wide, and shave it round along the edges and at the ends; it must be
long enough to run from ring to ring.
Having prepared the rings and breeching dees (Fig. 178 and 179, p.
125), cut the bearers from good leather, 10 in. by ¾ in.; turn them
down so that the points will meet, and flatten the bends. Prepare one
end of each for the buckle, and cut a groove along the lower side,
where there is no joint, and open it. Place the buckles and dees in
two bearers and the rings and buckle in the two remaining, joining
them on the side under the loop. Stitch the ends together, making
them meet exactly in the centre of the bearer.
After edging the end bends, black them, because this would be
troublesome work later; then cut four loops, 3½ in. by 1⅜ in.,
blind-stitch them, and finish them like the others. Make the pattern
match, finish the back of the bearer, and close the groove well. A
ring must now be put in each end of the breeching, which is then
tacked in place for stitching. Place the lining lately cut in the
centre to raise and strengthen it, and then stitch along both the
sides with three-cord coarse hemp; reserve an opening about 6 in.
from the ring for the bearers, but do not fix these in it until the
body has been stitched and trimmed.
Some fancy style of stitching can be run along each end from the
ring about 6 in. when the straight lines have been stitched along
the sides, or have two extra straight lines instead of fancy work,
bringing the lines to a point at 6 in. from the ring, or again make
four rows all along the breeching.
The body being well trimmed and finished, put both bearers in on the
same side, one at each end where the opening was left. Before this,
however, put a small piece of leather inside to fill the hollow
square in the breeching dees; stitch this firmly in place.
For a hip-strap to match the breeching, cut a strap 4 ft. long and a
little more than double the width of the buckles on the bearers; slit
it for 16 in. at each end, each slit being the width of the bearer
buckles, and if it is altogether too wide, the waste should come off
the centre. Then edge, black, and crease it neatly and put eight
holes in each end.
The breeching straps to go round the shafts must be cut 3 ft. 3 in.
by 1¼ in., and when the light ends are turned down, are 2 ft. 6 in.
long. Round the point, and shave that of the turn over; then prepare
the bend for the buckle, and edge, black, and crease.
Cut four strong loops about ⅞ in. wide, and having neatly finished
them, prick along about 3 in. from the buckle on the lower side. Tack
on the two loops, one near the buckle in the usual position, and
the other close to it but in the reverse position to turn under the
strap. Stitch them with strong thread, and, having finished them,
bend the strap from the loop to the end of the underpiece and run a
dozen stitches on each side at the point. Bend it so that when in
position in the ring the parts will be even; if stitched without
bending, the lower part will pucker. Finish the loops and put six
holes in each strap.
The back-band (Fig. 190, p. 147) may now be cut out, its complete
length being 8 ft. The centre piece passing through the saddle is 3
ft. 3 in. long, the strap or buckling end measuring 1 ft. 6 in., and
the remainder being for girth. If it is for a van harness it must
be in three thicknesses along the centre, but the strap end will be
strong enough in two thicknesses; when the belly-band part is very
light it may also be thickened a little. Place the belly-band buckle
in the belly-band end, and if necessary line the chape; then round
the point at the strap end. Crease all along and make two rows on
each side of the centre, bringing them together in a point at the
extremities. Strictly speaking, one row on each side of the belly
band and strap will suffice, but four rows are better; in the last
case, crossing the two middle centre lines at the end of the centre
part will improve the appearance.
An opening must be left in the stitching about 1½ in. from the
buckle, and two openings lower down, 2 in. apart, to receive three
loops when the back-band has been completed. Stitch it about eight
per inch, with four-cord thread.
For finishing, use a spokeshave, and rub the stitches underneath to
level them well; round the edges well towards the stitches, making
the edges neat in appearance. Scrape it with glasspaper, place the
buckle on the hook, and black the edges and stitches; rub vigorously
with the rag in the right hand, holding each side of the back-band
with the other. The hand should be moved briskly backwards and
forwards so as to dry and polish the edges well. Now pass a ball of
tallow along the edges and again rub well with the rag, after which
the three loops may be placed on the belly band and stitched from
below, the reverse side to the other stitches. Then punch eight
or nine holes in the strap and three in the centre part at equal
distances from each crossing of the middle row of stitches, or from
the point of the inner rows if the centre only has four rows of
stitching. Leave about 1 ft. 6 in. in the centre without holes.
The shaft tugs (Fig. 191, p. 147) are made by cutting a 1 ft. 7¾ in.
length of leather to the same width as the buckles and back-band—that
is, 1¾ in. Overlap this piece 4½ in., the overlap then being bent
together and knocked flat in the centre. Through both leathers cut a
hole for a buckle in the bend, and shave a little on the sides of the
hole underneath where the tongue enters, so that the buckle will run
close to the leather.
Shave both ends, the inner very thin and the outer or top one
moderately, cutting a little off each corner. Crease two rows on
each side as on the back-band, and, having pricked the rows seven
per inch, place the brass or nickel loop loose on the strap and
adjust the buckle therein. Draw the two holes in the centre, where
the buckle is placed, exactly opposite each other, and stitch the
top point of the overlap along the two inner lines for about 2 in.
through the two leathers.
The shape being now obtained, the tug must be filled and thickened.
This is done by cutting a piece of leather to fit the inside tight
from one side of the buckle to the other, keeping the buckle in
position while working. Cut a nick in the centre of each end of this
piece so that the tongue and sides may fit close to the buckle, and
then cut another good piece of leather to go round inside tight and
to overlap at the top for about 1½ in. Now shave each end and cut
a groove on each side for about the length of the loop on the part
intended for it, and overlap it on the side opposite the loop just
below the buckle, with the outer point of the overlap on the top
pointing towards the buckle and not downwards.
If the tug needs more thickening, place another piece under the
inside lining to reach from the metal loop (placed below the leather
loop) round the bottom and about halfway up the other side, leaving
it with its thickness at the end near the metal loop; shave the other
end thin.
The metal loop must fit tight between the end of the piece and the
leather loop. It must now be tacked together from the inside, the
joint at the overlap being made firm. The lining should be of sole
leather; damp it well so that it will fit into its place and be
easier to stitch. Begin stitching at the buckle with four-cord thread
and work round to the metal loop; then begin at this part on the
other side and stitch to the buckle. Continue to work in this way
until four rows are stitched.
Trim the edges, and black and polish them, paying particular
attention to the part about the buckle.
There is an opening from the metal loop to the buckle remaining
unstitched; this, with a groove cut underneath on the lower side, is
for the loop, which must be about 2 in. wide. Having inserted one
side for about half the width of the tug, stitch it with six-cord
double waxed thread from the buckle to the metal loop, being careful
to bring the awl out with each stitch in the centre of the groove.
Stitch the other side as far as the buckle and make two or three
cross stitches on each side of the buckle.
If there is much unevenness on the part from the end of the loop to
the buckle, a little filling may be put in the space. The loop must
be longer than usual because the back-band is extra thick. Shape the
loop with a thick bent loop-stick big enough to make plenty of room
for a back-band. Black and finish the loop, make a pattern or check
it if necessary, and then remove all unevenness, close the grooves,
and trim neatly about the loop and buckle. Repeat the operation with
the second tug, and then all will be ready.
The big loops for a shaft and the hame tugs, etc., must always be
made of firm loop leather, which will grow hard in finishing and
retain its firmness and shape in spite of rain and weather.
[Illustration: Fig. 192.—Four-wheeled Cab Saddle.]
[Illustration: Fig. 193.—Cab Saddle Tree.]
For the traces, trace end chains will be needed; van and cab traces
are stitched to the hames, being shortened by having ten or twelve
links of a chain at the other end. The traces may be 4 ft. 9 in. long
by 1¾ in., being 1 ft. 1 in. longer with a chain. They must be in
three thicknesses, but with two thicknesses to go through the chain
dee and hame ring (Fig. 171, p. 123).
In putting the upper and lower part together, place the light end
of one against the heavy end of the other, thus levelling the trace
and making it of equal strength. Shave the points well where one
ends and another begins—for example, the lining in the hame ring
and chain dee. Having turned the leathers down to the right length,
crease and prick them, seven or eight per inch. Tack down with only
the chain on and stitch the four rows, but not so far in the hame end
as to prevent the hame ring being placed in position when they are
finished. When both are stitched, trim, black, and polish them; then
rub down the stitches underneath, and having fixed them to the hame
ring, stitch them to it, and finish that end like the other parts.
[Illustration: Fig. 194.]
[Illustration: Fig. 195.]
[Illustration: Fig. 196.
Fig. 194.—Hansom Cab Saddle. Figs. 195 and 196.—Rein Stops.]
Make two hame straps ⅞ in. wide, the top strap 1 ft. 10 in. long, and
the lower 1 ft. 4 in. Adjust the buckles at the strong ends and make
two loops, reversing them as on the breeching straps; have seven or
eight holes in each.
The driving reins are 1 in. wide, and the forepart near the horse’s
head is 6 ft. long on each side. Turn down the chapes at the strong
ends for the buckles, and shave the point thin; then cut two billets,
1 ft. long, from a firm piece of leather. Shave one end and round the
other, and, having cut two loops, edge and finish them; then rub all
and crease them close to the edge with a hot creaser.
Adjust the buckles, prick the part of the billet to be stitched a
little inside the outer crease, and stitch the billets in with the
loop. When the loops are finished, make a hole in each billet far
enough from the point to allow what is over to come through the loop,
and cover the stitches on the front.
[Illustration: Fig. 197.—Hansom Cab Harness.]
Make the brown hand parts 5 ft. 6 in. long, and narrow the light end
of one part to pass through into a ¾-in. covered buckle; then turn
down the other point and narrow it for the buckle chape. Finally,
prepare a narrow brown loop. Shave and taper the other end of the
hand parts to a point, edge both sides below and under, and damp the
edges with gum and water, or with water only. Polish them well by
rubbing, making them even everywhere; brown paper is excellent for
polishing either black or brown edges.
After creasing them very near the edge with a screw crease, place the
buckle and loop on the end and mark a line a little inside the outer
one, about 2½ in. or 3 in. long, on the end to be spliced on the
fore-part. Prick it fine and stitch with a fine thread, pointing the
stitches in the upper end to the same shape as the others. The hand
parts can be obtained ready cut with buckles, and then all that has
to be done is to shave the ends and stitch them to the fore-parts.
Four-wheel cab harness can be made in the same way as van harness,
except the saddle (Fig. 192), which is made exactly like a gig
saddle, but is heavier and has brass or nickel screw studs in each
corner of the skirts; Fig. 193 shows the top or tree.
Hansom cab harness is not much different, though the saddle (Fig.
194) is lighter, and some have rollers inside the saddle so that the
back-band may run smoothly backwards and forwards through the tree;
these trees are made to order. In Fig. 197, A indicates the noseband,
B winker, C forehead band, E throatlash, F cheek, G rein, H collar,
I trace, J saddle, K shaft tug, L cantle of saddle, M crupper, N tug
strap, O bearer, P breeching, and R shaft strap.
The hansom reins must be about 20 ft. long on each side, each
brown hand part being about 7 ft. long. They are generally showy
and ornamental. Winkers and saddle, hip straps, martingale, and
breastplate have ornaments, the reins have ivory rings and stops
(Figs. 195 and 196), and there is a face piece ornament on the bridle.
Both four-wheeler and hansom harness (Fig. 197) are larger and
heavier than gig harness, except at the saddle.
INDEX.
Awls, 21, 22
Back Stitching, 52
Backband Hook, Plough, 107
——, Van Harness, 150
Backs, Hide, 37, 39, 40
Ball Terret, 124
Band, Forehead, 68
Bands, Mill, 40
——, Nose, 68
Basils, 40
Beeswax, 30
Bells and Brush, Bridle, 63
Belly Band, Cart, 99
Belt, Waist, 49
Bent Awl, 21
Bevellers, 21
Billet, 93
Bits, 111-116
Black Wax, 31, 33, 45
Black-ball, 44
Board, Cutting, 42
Body-belt Webs, 45
Box Creased Loop, 57
—— Loop, 57
—— Strap, 49
—— Spurs, 116
Brace End Punch, 15
Brass Face-pieces, 63
—— Gear Buckles, Scotch, 63
—— Hame Plates, 63
—— Nails, 35
—— Ornaments, 63
—— Polishing Paste, 47
—— Squares, 63
—— Swing, 63
Breaking Bit, 116
Breeching, Cart Harness, 96
——, Van Harness, 149
Bridle, 70
—— Hides, 38
Bridoon Bits, 112, 114, 115
Bronzing for Leather, 48
Brown Gear Hides, 40
—— Harness Hides, 40
—— Shoulders, 39
—— Stain, 46
—— Wax, 45
Brush and Bells for Bridle, 63
Buckle Tongue Punch, 14
Buckles, 63, 118-126
Buff Hides, White, 41
Buff Middling, White Bleached, 41
Bull Hides, Enamelled, 41
Burgess’s Buckles, 124
Burnisher, 44
Butts, Black Strap, 38
Buxton Bit, 115
Cab, Hansom, Harness for, 156
—— Harness, 156
—— Saddle, 156
—— Tree, 156
Calf-skins, 40
Cart Belly Band, 99
—— Collars, 75-85
—— Harness, 62-74
—— Saddles, 86-100
—— ——, Panel of, 86
—— ——, Tree for, 86
Cement, Leather, 47
Chain Front, 141
Chains, 125
——, Hip-strap, 103
Chapes, 66
Chased Buckles, 123
Chatham Buckles, 123
Checkers, 20
Cheek Curb Bit, Globe, 114
Chin Strap, 71
Clamp or Clams, 24
Clip, Hame, 123
Clout Nails, 34
Coach Hides, 41
Collar, Cart, 75-85
——, Lining, 78
——, Pipe, 77
—— Rod, Iron, 27
—— Side-piece, 83
——, Van, 128
Coloured Flocks, 36
Couplings for Plough Gear, 110
Compasses, 21
——, Race, 21
Composition, Harness, 46
Corner-piece, Nose-band, 69
Cow-backs, Japanned, 38
Cow-hides, Enamelled, 41
Creased Loop, Box, 57
Creases, 19
Crew Punch, 14
Crupper, Cart Harness, 93
—— Dock, 146
Crupper, Van Harness, 145
Curb Bit, 115
—— ——, Globe Cheek, 114
Cut Tacks, 34
Cutter, Washer, 13
Cutting Board, 42
—— Gauge, 10, 11
—— Pliers, 27
Cutting up Hides, 42
Dees, Breeching, 148
Diaper Webs, 45
Dock, 146
Double-rein Hides, 39
Dress Spurs, 116
Drummed Flocks, 36
Dye, 35
Dyeing, Iron Liquor for, 45
Ear-piece, 69
Edge Trimmers, 12
Enamelled Hides, 41
Exercising Bit, 116
Face-pieces, Brass, 63
Farm Harness, Oil for, 47
Felt, 36
Files, 29
Flap Hides, Japanned, 38
Flocks, 36
Flour Paste, 45
Fly-terrets, 124
Foot-rule, 21
Fore Gear and Leader Harness, 101-106
Forehead Band, 68
—— ——, Van Harness, 141
Forewale, 76
Fork, Straining, 29
Four-wheel Cab Harness, 156
Gauge, Cutting, 10, 11
——, Plough, 11
Gear Buckles, Scotch, 63
—— Hides, Brown, 40
——, Plough, 107-110
——, Shaft, 62
Gig Curb Bit, 115
—— Harness, 127
—— Snaffle, 113
Gilding Leather, 48
Girth, Cart Saddle, 91
—— Chape Punch, 15
——, Van Harness, 137
—— Webs, 44
Globe Cheek Curb Bit, 114
Hackney Bits, 112, 113
Half-moon Scalloping Irons, 16
Hame Clip, 125
—— Knobs, Brass, 63
—— Plates, Brass, 63
—— Straps, 99
—— Tug Loops, 153
Hames, 124-125
Hammer, 17
Hand Knife, 10
—— Punch, 15
Hand-iron, 23
Hansom Cab Harness, 156
—— —— Saddle, 156
Hard Wax, 31
Harness, Cab, 127-156
——, Cart, 62-74
—— Composition, 46
——, Fore Gear and Leader, 101-106
——, Gig, 127
—— Jet, 47
—— Oil, 47
——, Plough, 107-110
——, Van, 127-156
—— Waterproof Paste, 47
Head Knife, 10
—— Strap, 73
Head-collar Rein Backs, 39
Hearts, Brass, 63
Hemp, 30, 33
Hides, 37-42
——, Cutting up, 42
Hind Tugs, 97
Hip-strap Chains, 103
Hog-skins, 40
Hook, Plough Back-band, 107
——, Wire, 61
Horse Hides, Japanned, 38
Horsehair, Curled, 36
Housing, Cart Saddle, 92
Iron Collar Rod, 27
——, Hand, 23
—— Liquor for Dyeing, 45
——, Palm, 23
——, Pricking, 18
——, Scalloping, 16
—— Seat, 27
Jambles Plates, 63
Japanned Hides, 38
—— Nails, 34
—— Welting Seals, 38
—— Winker Hides, 38
Jet, Harness, 47
Knives, 10
Lace Needles, 53
Ladies’ Horse Bits, 112
—— Spurs, 116
—— Stirrups, 117
Lash, Throat, 73
Lead Piece for Punching, 16
Leader Harness, Fore Gear and, 101-106
Leather, 37-42
——, Bronzing, 48
—— Cement, 47
——, Fancy, 41
Leather Preserver, 47
——, Patent, Reviver for, 46
——, Testing Quality of, 41
Lignum-vitæ Round Mallet, 17
Linen Threads, 30
Lining Cart Saddle Panel, 87
—— Collar, 78
—— Winkers, 127
Liverpool Bits, 114
Loin Straps, 98
Loop, Box, 57
——, Creasing, 59
—— Leather, Dyeing, 35
——, Pipe, 57
——, Running, 49, 57
Looping, 57-61
Loop-sticks, 28
Machine, Slitting, 11
Mallets, 17
Materials, 30-48
Melbourne Buckles, 124
Middling, White Bleached Buff, 41
Mill Bands, 40
Nail-claw, 27
Nails, 34, 35
Needles, 22
——, Threading, 51
Nipple, Hand Punch, 16
Nose-band, 63
——, Van Harness, 140
Octagons, Brass, 63
Officers’ Spurs, 116
Oil, Harness, 47
Oval Punch, 13, 14
Ovals, Brass, 63
Ox Hides, Enamelled, 41
Palm-iron, 23
Panel, Cart Saddle, 86
——, Van Saddle, 134
Paring Knife, 10
Paste, 45, 127
——, Brass Polishing, 47
——, Harness, 47
Patent Leather Reviver, 46
Pelham Bits, 112
—— Snaffles, 113
Pincers, 27
Pipe Collar, 77
—— Loop, 57
Plate Powder, 47
Pliers, 27
Plough Back-band Hook, 107
—— Gear Couplings, 110
—— Harness, 107-110
Plough-gauge, 11
Pocket-book or Purse Hides, 40
Polishing Paste, Brass, 47
Powder, Plate, 47
Preserver, Leather, 47
Prickers, Wheel, 19
Pricking-iron, 18
Punches, 13-16
Punching, Lead Piece for, 16
Purse or Pocket-book Hides, 40
Race Compasses, 21
—— Girth Webs, 44
Rasps, 29
Rein, 73
—— Backs, Head-collar, 39
—— Hides and Backs, 38
—— Stops, 156
Reins, Van Harness, 154
Reviver, Patent Leather, 46
Riding Bits, 112
—— Saddles, Stain for, 46
Rivets, 126
Roller Buckles, 126
—— Girth Webs, 44
Rosette Punches, 16
Round Awl, 22
—— File, 29
—— Knife, 10
—— Punch, 13, 14
Round-headed Nails, 34
Rubber, 28
Running Loop, 50, 57
Russet Brown Stain, 46
Saddle, Cab, 156
——, Cart, 86-100
—— Girths, 91
——, Hansom Cab, 156
—— Stain, 46
—— Straps, 91
——, Van, 130
Safety Slipper Stirrup, 117
Scalloping Irons, 16
Scotch Brass Gear Buckles, 63
Screw Crease, 19
—— Race, 19
—— Spurs, 116
Seals, Japanned Welting, 38
Seal-skins, 41
Seat Awl, 22
—— Iron, 27
Sewing Awl, 21
Shaft Gear, 62
—— Tug Buckles, 124
—— Tugs, Clamp for Sewing, 24
—— ——, Van, 151
Sheep-skins, 40
Sheep’s Wool, 36
Shoulders, Hide, 38-40
Show or Stallion Bit, 116
Silk Threads, 30
Single Crease, 19
Skins, Calf, 40
——, Hog, 40
——, Seal, 41
——, Sheep, 40
——, White, 53
Skirt Hides and Backs, 40
Slipper Stirrups, 117
Slitting Machine, 11
Snaffles, 113, 116
Spokeshave, 11
Spur Shoulders, Black, 38
Spurs, 116
Square File, 29
Squares, Brass, 63
Stain, 35
Stains, Various, 46
Stallion or Show Bit, 116
Stars, Brass, 63
Steel Seat-iron, 27
Stirrup Hides, 40
Stirrups, 117
Stitching Awls, 21
——, Back, 52
——, Simple Exercises in, 49-56
—— with White Lace, 52
Straight Scalloping Irons, 16
Straining Fork, 29
—— Webs, 45
Strap, Box, 49
—— Butts, Black, 38
—— for Cart Saddle, 91
——, Chin, 71
——, Hame, 99
——, Head, 73
——, Loin, 98
——, Winker, 72
Swing, Brass, 63
Swivelled Bridoon Bit, 115
Swivels, 124
Tacks, Cut, 34
Tallow, 31
Team Harness, Oil for, 47
Terrets, 124
Threads, 30, 33, 75
Throat Lash, 73
Tools, 10-29
Trace Backs, 37
——, Van Harness, 153
Tree, Cab Saddle, 156
Tree, Cart Saddle, 86
——, Van Saddle, 132
Trimmers, Edge, 12
Trousers Spurs, 116
Tugs, Hind, 97
Van Collar, 123
—— Harness, 127-155
—— Saddle, 130
Vandyke Scalloping Irons, 16
Vice, 27
Waist-belt, 49-56
Washer Cutter, 13
Waterproof Harness Paste, 47
Wax, Black, 31, 33, 45
——, Brown, 45
——, Hard, 31
——, White, 30
Waxed Threads, 30
Webs, 44, 45
Welting Seals, Japanned, 38
West End Buckles, 122-124
Weymouth Bits, 112
Wheel Prickers, 19
White Bleached Buff Middling, 41
—— Buff Hides, 41
—— Flocks, 36
—— Hemp Thread, 33
—— Lace, Stitching with, 52
—— Skin, 53
—— Wax, 30
Wilson Snaffle, 113
Winker Hides, 38
—— ——, Japanned, 38
—— Straps, 72
—— ——, Van Harness, 142
Winkers, 64, 127
Wire Hook, 61
—— Nails, 34
Wrench, 27
Yellow Hemp Thread, 33
—— Stain, 46
PRINTED BY CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, E.C.
Transcriber’s Notes
pg 24 Added period after: part of the iron is not available
pg 53 Changed: With the wheel pricker
to: With the wheel-pricker
pg 59 Changed: When finished, apply a litle
to: When finished, apply a little
pg 99 Changed: these face-pieces being a litle
to: these face-pieces being a little
Many hyphenated and non-hyphenated word combinations left as written.