BITS, SPURS, STIRRUPS, AND HARNESS FURNITURE.
Bits, their patterns and materials, will now be considered. Bits are
made in polished iron, tinned iron, in steel of various qualities,
and in nickel. Nickel is as expensive as good steel, but does not
tarnish so soon, and when worn still continues to take a good polish.
[Illustration:
Fig. 106. Fig. 107.
Figs. 106 and 107.—Pelham Bits.]
Some of the more expensive kinds of bits have ornamented and
silver-plated cheeks; this is especially the case with carriage,
military, and riding bits.
[Illustration:
Fig. 108. Fig. 109. Fig. 110.
Fig. 108.—Pelham Bit. Fig. 109.—Hackney Bit. Fig. 110.—Bridoon.]
Riding bits are snaffles for a single head bridle and rein, hence
their name snaffle bridles. Pelham bits (Figs. 106 to 108) are used
for single head bridle and double rein, this bridle being known as
the Pelham. The Hackney bit (Fig. 109) has a bridoon (Fig. 110),
that is, the bit has only a mouthpiece and a ring at each end with a
jointed bar. This bit is used for the Weymouth bridle, which has a
double head and a double rein. Curbs are used with the two bits last
mentioned.
[Illustration:
Fig. 111. Fig. 112.
Figs. 111 and 112.—Ladies’ Horse Bits.]
[Illustration: Fig. 113.
Fig. 113.—Pelham Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth.]
[Illustration: Fig. 114.
Fig. 114.—Hackney Bit with Indiarubber Mouth.]
Bits for horses to be ridden by ladies are shown by Figs. 111 and
112. They are on the same principle as those previously mentioned,
but are lighter and more fanciful, many of them being ornamented
about the cheeks. The Pelham snaffle (Fig. 113) and the Hackney bit
(Fig. 114), with indiarubber mouths, can be had for tender-mouthed
horses, and double or twisted or smooth-mouthed bits can be had for
vicious or quiet horses as required.
[Illustration: Fig. 115.
Fig. 115.—Gig Snaffle.]
[Illustration: Fig. 116.
Fig. 116.—Wilson Snaffle.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 117. Fig. 118. Fig. 119.
Fig. 117.—Liverpool Bit. Fig. 118.—Globe Cheek Curb Bit. Fig.
119.—One-horn Bridoon Bit.]
[Illustration: Fig. 120.—One-horned Bridoon with Indiarubber Mouth.]
[Illustration: Fig. 121.—Gig Curb Bit.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 122. Fig. 123.
Fig. 124. Fig. 125.
Fig. 122.—Buxton Bit. Fig. 123.—Swivelled Bridoon Bit. Figs. 124 and
125.—Breaking Bits.]
Driving bits are commonly gig snaffles (Fig. 115); Wilson snaffles
(Fig. 116) have rings at each end and two loose rings on the
mouthpiece, one of which is buckled to the bridle cheek; the outer
ring on each side is for the driving rein, but sometimes the rein
billet is put through both rings at the same time. Wilson snaffles
can be obtained bar jointed, twisted, or smooth-mouth. The Liverpool
bit (Fig. 117) has a curb cheek, and a straight or solid bar mouth
with the mouth bar loose on the cheek. The Globe cheek curb bit (Fig.
118) has a ring at the bottom of the cheek to which the mouthpiece is
attached instead of being loose as in the Liverpool bit. A “one-horn
bridoon” (Fig. 119), with one ring at each side and either a solid or
a jointed mouth, sometimes has a leather or indiarubber mouth (see
Fig. 120).
[Illustration: Fig. 126.—Breaking Bit.]
[Illustration: Fig. 127.—Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth.]
Gig curb bits (Fig. 121) have the billet of the bridle fastened to
the top of the cheek, with cheeks on the lower side to which the
reins are fastened.
[Illustration:
Fig. 128. Fig. 129.
Figs. 128 and 129.—Exercising Bits.]
[Illustration: Fig. 130.—Show or Stallion Bit.]
The carriage bit most in use is the Buxton bit (Fig. 122), which has
a bend in the cheek below the mouthpiece, and a bar across at the
bottom from one side of the cheek to the other, the solid mouthpiece
having a port in the centre; this is a smart and very powerful curb
bit, but it is being superseded by the Liverpool bit. A swivelled
bridoon (Fig. 123), as sometimes used with the ordinary driving
bit, has the bearing rein running from the hames down through the
swivel and up to a strap stitched between the two slit straps of the
head-strap. Breaking bits (Figs. 124 to 126) are special kinds of
patent bits. Fig. 127 is an indiarubber mouth snaffle; Figs. 128 and
129 are exercising bits; Fig. 130 is a show or stallion bit; and Fig.
131 is a double-mouthed snaffle.
[Illustration: Fig. 131.—Double-mouthed Snaffle.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 132. Fig. 133. Fig. 134.
Fig. 132.—Ordinary Spur. Fig. 133.—Officer’s Regulation Spur. Fig.
134.—Dress Spur.]
On the subject of spurs, very little need be said. Besides ordinary
pattern spurs (Fig. 132), there are officers’ regulation spurs (Fig.
133), dress spurs (Fig. 134), ladies’ spurs (Fig. 135), trousers
spurs (Fig. 136), and box spurs. The last-named are fastened to the
heel of the boot by a spring inserted in a steel box inside the heel.
Like screw spurs, which screw into a hole in the heel, they may be
taken off at will. Spurs are made in polished steel and brass, some
being silver-plated. The saddler must have a supply of spur rowels
for repairing spurs.
[Illustration:
Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137.
Fig. 135.—Lady’s Spur. Fig. 136.—Trousers Spur. Fig. 137.—Solid
Stirrup.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 138. Fig. 139. Fig. 140.
Fig. 138.—Open Bottom Stirrup. Fig. 139.—Waving Bar Stirrup. Fig.
140.—Lady’s Stirrup.]
Stirrups may be solid (Fig. 137), three bar or open bottom (Fig.
138), or they may be of the waving bar pattern (Fig. 139). They
vary greatly in weight according to the purpose for which they are
required, and are made of polished steel and of plated brass or
silver. Ladies’ stirrups (Fig. 140) are of various patterns, some
having pads to protect the foot, others having foot plates of the
same shape as the foot; others, again, have slippers (Fig. 141).
Safety stirrups (Fig. 142) both for ladies and gentlemen are made
so that if the rider falls or is thrown off the horse the stirrups
spring open and release the rider’s feet. Thus the danger of being
dragged along the ground by the horse is obviated.
[Illustration: Fig. 141.—Stirrup Slipper.]
[Illustration: Fig. 142.—Safety Stirrup.]
Some particulars will now be given of harness furniture. First the
material will be touched upon.
Japanned iron furniture is strong and durable, and has a fairly good
appearance when new, but the japan soon wears off and allows the iron
to get rusty. Common iron buckles, covered with leather, are also
used, but not so extensively as they were formerly. The iron soon
rusts, and the rust affects the leather and causes it to crumble off,
giving a very shabby appearance to the rest of the set of harness.
[Illustration:
Fig. 143. Fig. 144. Fig. 145. Fig. 146.
Fig. 143.—Flat Side Wire Front Buckle. Fig. 144.—Wire Front
Bevelled Buckle. Fig. 145.—Bevelled Flat Top Buckle. Fig. 146.—West
End Bevelled Flat Top Buckle.
]
Brass furniture is largely used, and it is got up in many qualities
and styles of finish. The best brass does not tarnish nearly so
soon as common brass, and, of course, has a good appearance when
clean. Partly covered brass or plated furniture is also sometimes
used, the buckles being covered with leather about half-way up the
sides, leaving the top and a little of the side bare. This looks very
well, and is more durable than iron-covered buckles, as the brass-
or silver-plate does not destroy the leather so soon as iron; partly
covered furniture is, however, very awkward to clean.
[Illustration:
Fig. 147. Fig. 148. Fig. 149. Fig. 150.
Fig. 147.—Spade Buckle. Fig. 148.—Square Wire Buckle. Fig.
149.—Chatham Buckle. Fig. 150.—Flat Top Turned-up Buckle.
]
[Illustration:
Fig. 151. Fig. 152. Fig. 153. Fig. 154.
Fig. 151.—Fluted Buckle. Fig. 152.—Swelled Front Bent-leg Buckle.
Fig. 153.—Flat Top Cab Buckle. Fig. 154.—West End Whole Buckle.
]
Buckles are occasionally covered with celluloid; sometimes this
only partly covers the brass, aluminium, or gold-plated buckle, and
it then looks very rich. The celluloid-covered article is made in
imitation of the leather-covered buckle; it is durable, and does not
require much cleaning, the occasional application of a wet sponge
being sufficient. Celluloid is more commonly used in America than in
this country. It is a very inflammable material, and will break if
given a hard knock or if allowed to fall.
[Illustration:
Fig. 155. Fig. 156. Fig. 157.
Fig. 155.—Chased Buckle. Fig. 156.—Melbourne Buckle. Fig. 157.—West
End Square Buckle.]
Nickel furniture looks well, but costs a little more than brass.
Nickoline, white metal, or Victoria metal furniture costs about the
same as brass; all three look well when cleaned, but quickly tarnish.
Plated furniture is used on superior harness; it can be bought in
different qualities, being plated with silver, white metal, German
silver, or nickel.
[Illustration:
Fig. 158. Fig. 159. Fig. 160. Fig. 161.
Figs. 158 and 159.—Covered Buckles. Figs. 160 and 161.—Part-covered
Buckles.]
Of course, the hames and the buckle tongues are of iron, plated in
whatever metal the rest of the furniture is made; they have to be
of iron to withstand the strain to which they are subjected. In
ordering, it is necessary to state whether plated hames are required
of the same material as the furniture, and whether the latter is
brass, silver-plated, etc. The pattern of buckle required will make
a little difference in the price; the wire-shaped pattern is the one
mostly used.
[Illustration:
Fig. 162. Fig. 163.
Fig. 164. Fig. 165.
Fig. 162.—Shaft Tug Buckle. Fig. 163.—Burgess’s Buckle. Fig.
164.—Ball Terret. Fig. 165.—Plain Terret.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 166. Fig. 167.
Figs. 166 and 167.—Ball Terrets.]
[Illustration: Fig. 168.—Ball Terret.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 169. Fig. 170. Fig. 171. Fig. 172.
Figs. 169 to 172.—Hames.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 173. Fig. 174.
Figs. 173 and 174.—Bearing-rein Swivels.]
There are so many patterns in gig and carriage furniture that it is
impossible to mention them all. Attention will be directed, however,
to some of the most useful patterns of buckles. The flat side wire
front (Fig. 143, p. 118), the wire front bevelled (Fig. 144), the
bevelled flat top (Fig. 145), the West End flat top wire (Fig. 146),
and the spade pattern (Fig. 147, p. 119) are all very neat buckles.
Square wire buckles (Fig. 148) on light gig harness look very well.
The Chatham (Fig. 149), flat top turned up (Fig. 150), and fluted
(Fig. 151), are very strong buckles for cab harness, as are also the
swelled front bent leg (Fig. 152), and side and flat top cab (Fig.
153) buckles. The West End whole buckle is shown by Fig. 154; it
looks very neat for any fancy harness. “Chased” (Fig. 155, p. 120),
“Melbourne” (Fig. 156), or “West End square,” or “square wire”
(Fig. 157) whole buckles, are all very showy and smart when worked
up. Figs. 158 and 159 are covered buckles, and Figs. 160 and 161
part-covered buckles.
There are many different kinds of shaft tug buckles; that shown by
Fig. 162 (p. 121) is a good pattern, as is also Burgess’s patent
buckle (Fig. 163).
The terrets (Figs. 164 to 168) for the reins to run through on the
saddle and hames (Figs. 169 to 172), as well as the bearing-rein
swivels (Figs. 173 and 174) and all parts of the set of furniture,
are of a pattern conforming with that of the buckles.
[Illustration: Fig. 175.]
[Illustration: Fig. 176.
Figs. 175 and 176.—Roller Buckles.]
Cart-harness furniture may be of galvanised or japanned iron, with
buckles of brass or white metal. All the brass patterns illustrated
are known as Scotch gear buckles. Cart fancy-brass breeching loops
may be used instead of leather ones for bridgeband carriers and
bridle cheeks.
Fly-terrets are much used as ornaments on the top of the bridle
between the ears of the horse, being either screwed down into a
socket or riveted in place. Brass face-pieces for the front of the
bridles on the forehead can be obtained in numerous patterns.
Hame plates, to be put between the two points of the hames or jambles
above the collar, look very well with a strap across from side to
side as a fastening.
Cart hames are either wholly or partly covered with iron, and
generally take their names from the district in which the particular
pattern is mostly used. Thus there are the Manchester, Lancashire,
Irish, and Yorkshire hames. Cart bits, together with their fittings,
are always firmly attached to the bridle, and are made either of
tinned or japanned iron. They may be straight and jointed, or twisted.
[Illustration: Fig. 177.]
[Illustration: Fig. 178.]
[Illustration: Fig. 179.
Fig. 177.—Hame Clip. Figs. 178 and 179.—Breeching Dees.]
Chains, such as backband, crupper, or hip strap chains, and watering
chains for bridle reins, and plough backband hooks or chains, are
all wanted in making up a set. Others necessary are:—Leader backband
chains, cheek chains for the end of leading rein, bridgeband chains,
and chains for the bellyband, instead of billets, to go round the
shafts.
Riding bridle buckles range in width from ⅜ in. to 1 in. Stirrup
leather buckles are also a special line, being from 1¼ in. to 1½ in.
in width. Saddle girth buckles are 1 in. wide. Roller buckles (Figs.
175 and 176, p. 124) vary in size from ⅝ in. to 1¾ in., and are
largely used on all kinds of leather work. Head-stall or head-collar
buckles range in size from 1¼ in. to 1½ in.; some have the collar
attached, to which is fastened the throat lash.
The following buckles must also be kept ready to hand:—D-buckles
for use on small straps; and japanned legging buckles, in sizes
ranging from ½ in. to ¾ in. Head-collar stop squares, for making
and repairing head-collars, must also be stocked, as well as tinned
and brass rings of different sizes, for making head-collars and for
miscellaneous repairs. Brass, tin, and plated dees will be necessary
for making and repairing dog collars, and for holding coat straps on
riding saddles, etc. They range in size from ⅝ in. to 1½ in.
Belt, brace, and garter buckles may often be wanted, and 2 lb. or
3 lb. of buckle tongues for repairing old buckles should also be
obtained in all sizes and strengths. Strong double-pronged buckles
may be wanted from 1½ in. to 2 in. There may also be occasion to
use harness buckles of all sizes, patterns, and material, saddle
terrets, hame clips (Fig. 177), various kinds of nails, breeching and
bearing-rein rings, breeching dees (Figs. 178 and 179), and rivets
for clips, etc.