CART HARNESS.
The make and pattern of cart gear are very varied in all parts of the
kingdom, and there is often a local name for each particular style;
but the only gear which can claim special favour is one that combines
proper strength with minimum weight.
[Illustration: Fig. 71.—Horse in Cart Gear.]
A typical shaft gear is shown by Fig. 71, in which A is the bit ring,
B the noseband, C winkers, D cheeks, E ear-pieces, F throat-lash,
G head-strap, H forehead band, I reins, K collar forewale, K’ hame
straps, L hame or jambles, M collar body and side-piece, N collar
draught, O forecart saddle housing, P back housing, R cart saddle
skirt, S girth and girth straps, T crupper, U and V hip and loin
straps, W and X fore and aft breeching tugs, and Y breeching.
[Illustration:
Fig. 72. Fig. 73.
Figs. 72 and 73.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 74. Fig. 75.
Figs. 74 and 75.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.]
The ornaments used are brass buckles (Figs. 72 to 75) instead of
tinned or japanned buckles, with brass face-pieces (Figs. 76 to 78)
on the bridle to hang on the horse’s forehead, brass bells for the
bridle (Fig. 79), hame plates (Figs. 80 and 81) at the top of the
collar between the two points of the hames or jambles, with a strap
across from one hame point to the other to hold it in position, brass
squares, ovals (Fig. 82), octagons (Figs. 83 to 85), hearts (Fig. 86)
on bridle winker or saddle housing corners, and brass beading instead
of nails over the top of the housing where attached to the tree.
When making gears this must be remembered. Other details of cart
ornaments are shown in Figs. 87 to 92.
Cart and leading gear made according to the following directions will
be useful anywhere, and when this method has been learned any other
style can be made.
The winkers C (Fig. 71) must be prepared first; blocked winkers with
fancy pattern raised against the eye are little used nowadays. Main
winkers are just as safe for the eyes if well made. Special winker
leather must be obtained either from a middling in stock, or, cut to
pattern, from any currier or leather-seller.
[Illustration:
Fig. 76. Fig. 77.
Figs. 76 and 77.—Brass Face-pieces.]
Cut the pieces straight 7 in. by 7½ in., and mark three rows all
round the long side and across one of the shorter sides with the race
compass or racer, making the groove deep; edge them above and below
with the edge tool and black the edges. After soaking them well in
water, bend them along the centre of the longer width into something
that is nearly, though not quite, a semicircle. Nail them down in any
convenient way, with the raised part above, on a flat board and let
them dry in this shape; drive in the nails near the edges only at
the side that will be covered and stitched over with the cheek. They
can be put to dry near a stove or fire.
[Illustration:
Fig. 78. Fig. 79. Fig. 80. Fig. 81.
Fig. 78.—Brass Face-piece. Fig. 79.—Bells and Brush. Figs. 80 and
81.—Brass Hame Plates.]
Then run a big hot beveller round the edges and along the lines made
until the groove looks deep and polished. Having two ¾-in. roller
tinned buckles, or brass Scotch buckles, cut two chapes to the same
width. Chapes are pieces to hold on the buckles; the name is also
applied to the part going round buckles on any length of strap. The
chapes are made 3½ in. long and turned down 2 in. from one end; make
the short end very thin and the other end slightly so, then point the
piece. Cut a buckle hole at the bend, edge, crease, and prick for
stitching; then put the chapes in the buckles and make the tops of
these last flush with edge and front of winkers, working as follows:—
[Illustration:
Fig. 82. Fig. 83. Fig. 84. Fig. 85.
Fig. 82.—Brass Oval. Figs. 83 to 85.—Brass Octagons.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 86. Fig. 87. Fig. 88.
Fig. 86.—Brass Heart. Figs. 87 and 88.—Brass Stars.]
Tack the chape down in its place in the front corner where the
creasing on the edges meets, and stitch. With tinned buckles put on a
loop; Scotch buckles, as Figs. 72 to 75, do not need any; place the
other chape and buckle on the corner of the other winker and stitch
likewise, taking care to put it on the reverse corner to the other
to make the winkers pair.
[Illustration:
Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.
Figs. 89 and 90.—Brass Hame Knobs. Fig. 91.—Brass Swing.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 92. Fig. 93. Fig. 94.
Fig. 92.—Brass Swing. Fig. 93.—Ear-piece. Fig. 94.—Corner-piece.]
Now cut the cheeks D, or the pieces that run down the side of the
head, making them 2 ft. 2 in. by 1¼ in.; turn them down so as to
make both ends meet underneath in the centre, and give the bends in
each end a slight tap with the hammer. It is better to draw in the
underpart a little so as to have the top somewhat longer, because
as there is a bend in the winker outwards the lower side should be
a little shorter. Cut a hole for the buckle in one end and another
in the centre of the bend, which is also the centre of the strap, at
the other end; from this hole cut straight out to each side and shave
the edges of the cut. Edge the cheek on the outside only and race it
along the top part with the race compass; the second race must be
made close to the other, care being taken not to run them into one
another. Make another line a little more than ⅛ in. from the last,
blacken the edges and lines with black dye, and rub them with a rag;
then prick the two inner rows with the pricker, eight per inch, put
the buckle in its place and the bit ring A in the other end, and
stitch both ends of the cheek together. There are two bit rings on
each side, fastened together by a small link; one ring, that placed
in the cheek, is larger than the other. The smaller ring must be kept
for the bit after the completion of the bridle. Both cheeks are made
in the same way, but the slit from the centre hole in the bend must
be reversed, otherwise the cheeks will not pair.
The winkers C and cheeks D (Fig. 71) being ready, cut the nose-band B
about 2 ft. long and 2 in. wide; turn in both ends equally, leaving
about 1 ft. 4 in. for the noseband; shave the ends rather thin,
and make a punch-hole in the centre of the bend, then slit it out
straight from both holes on the same side, and shave the sides of the
slit.
Edge both sides of the nose-band where it is not double, and make two
rows along it with the race compass, deepening and polishing them
with the hot beveller, after which prick the double row on both sides
from the bend to the lined part.
The nose-band is now ready for adjustment at the proper time. The
forehead band H (Fig. 71), or front, must be cut about 2 ft. 3 in.
long and 1½ in. wide. Edge, crease, black, and rub it and pass a hot
beveller over the grooves. Cut the ear-pieces E (see also Fig. 93) 1½
in. wide and 9 in. long, and double and flatten the bend, shaving one
end well. Take a piece of any strap 1¼ in. wide, and put it in the
bend, close up; mark how far the inner side runs in the ear-piece,
the 1¼ in. strap being allowed to run smooth in the opening between
the line and the bend. Mark two rows of pricking, eight per inch, on
each side from the cross-mark to the point or end, having previously
made a double row of creasing all along. Stitch from the cross line
to the point with three-cord thread; stitch the cross line coarse,
about two stitches for one of the other stitches. Rub the edges,
making them even by cutting if necessary, then black and rub. Place
the forehead band H in position, and stitch it end to end with the
ear-pieces, and cut a small =V=-nick in the joint of each end on the
same side.
The object of the nick is to provide space for the small projection
in the tongue of the buckle when put into position. Some
harness-makers cut the end of the ear-pieces, before joining them to
the forehead, in a slightly slanting way in such a manner that the
end with the opening will turn up a little when in place, but this
is not essential. Moreover, if the forehead band is to be covered
with any kind of fancy cloth or leather, this covering had better be
done before the ear-pieces are stitched, because the work will be
much easier than when the bridle is completed. Cut the material, red
American cloth, leather, etc., double the width of the forehead, and
allow ½ in. more to go round the edges; finally, herring-bone-stitch
underneath along the centre, and stitch on the ear-pieces.
Corner-pieces (Fig. 94) are now required to support the nose-band
and to join it and the cheek well together when complete. They are
in one single piece near the bit ring corner, descending from cheek
to nose-band. To make the chin strap, cut it 1½ in. wide, one piece
being made 6 in. long, leaving 2 in. of the original width, and then
narrowing the rest to ¾ in. with a rounded point. The other part is
made 12 in. long, and 2 in. of the original width is preserved, the
rest being narrowed to ¾ in.; then turn down a chape and make a hole
for the buckle in the narrow end, after which edge, crease, and black
both, then adjust buckle and loop.
To put the bridle together ready for stitching, work as follows: With
a ring at one end and a buckle at the other, place the forehead band
between the cheeks in such a way that the centre where the forehead
band and ear-pieces join may be right under the centre of the buckle
with the nick against the tongue. Drive a tack on the inner side, and
put the nose-band in the same ring as the cheek at the other end,
with the slits made in the bends upwards; fix the corner-pieces one
part in the cheek and the other in the nose-band, sufficiently low
to catch when stitching the nose-band. The corner-pieces must, of
course, be placed between the two leathers, both in the cheeks and
nose-band: the inner side of the corner-piece must follow the ring in
the cheek like a half-circle.
The outer part is supposed to have been previously edged and creased.
The point of the slits in the nose-band comes underneath the slits in
the cheeks on both sides in such a way that the edges in the cheeks
may cover and neatly overlap the edges of the slit in the nose-band
and catch them during work of stitching the cheek. Both winkers
are now adjusted with buckles in the front corners, turned upwards
to meet each other; place the winkers close to the ear-pieces and
forehead, making the outside flush with the outer edge of the cheek.
Tack down the winkers, keeping the bend in shape as set after drying;
thus there is an opening between the two sides of the cheek from the
end of the corner-piece to the bottom of the winker.
Cut a piece of leather as near as possible of the same thickness as
the winkers and of the same width as the cheeks. Place it between the
two sides of the cheek to fill the hollow, and so have a firm cheek
all along; tack the piece down and see that it fits tight; there must
be no looseness where it joins the winker and corner-piece.
The chin strap is now adjusted, the wide end of the short piece being
placed inside the cheek under the centre filling for a distance
of about ¾ in. and about 1½ in. from the bottom ring. This is the
right-hand side, taking a front view of the bridle. The other piece,
with buckle, goes on the other side, and both are tacked down. When
two small loops are to be placed on each side near the buckle at
the top of the cheek they should be tacked down so that they may be
stitched in with the cheek; but for a long loop, adjust beforehand
on the cheek, by stitching the ends loosely together. Nail the
first side of the long loop and clinch the nails underneath over
a loop-stick, leaving this inside while nailing the other side in
the same manner, partly running over the ear-piece E (Fig. 71) and
forehead band H and partly over the winker.
Stitching may be begun on the near side at the ring, and continued
up to the loop on the outside; then begin at the loop on the outside
of the other cheek and stitch down to the ring. The outer row on
the inner side of the first cheek and of the second check is now
stitched. When stitching opposite the winkers on the inner line two
stitches may be made instead of one by slipping a stitch between
each; fine stitching is apt to cut the winkers, and they often fall
off before being worn out; consequently slipping a stitch is a good
method. A row must now be stitched on each side of the nose-piece in
each end, then the inner rows of the cheek, and finally the inner
rows of the nose-band. Level the edges of the cheeks and nose-band,
scrape them, and black the edges; then rub them with tallow and bone.
Having creased and finished the loops, make two basil pads as long
as the distance from the buckle to the bottom of the winkers. For a
cheek of 1¼ in., cut the pads 1 in. wider than twice the width; fold
them lengthwise so that the edges will meet in the centre, and stitch
the ends together with the basil inside out. Now, after turning them
inside out, stitch the edges together like the ends with pointed
needle, thimble, and white linen thread. Run the stitches from both
ends and leave an opening about 1 in. long in the middle, through
which ram in the flock stuffing, but not too hard. Having stitched
the opening, place this side against the cheek of the bridle under
the winker, and as far as the buckle; choose three nails having large
heads, run small tufts of flock to the heads of the nails, and fasten
the pads down firmly to the cheek by driving a nail in each end and
one in the centre, taking care that the points do not appear on the
other side; trim the flock on the nails with the scissors.
The winker straps are made as follows: Cut a strap 24 in. long and
1½ in. wide, then slit it exactly in the centre for 13 in., making a
punch hole at the end of the slit; shape the points of each slit to
go through the buckles on each winker, and make a cross line 1½ in.
from the end of the slit, marking it deeply. At a distance of 1½ in.
from this line make a second line, and a third 1⅝ in., making them
all deep; turn down the strap so that the centre of the bend will
be exactly at the last mark. Knock the bend flat if the point runs
beyond the end of the slit after turning down; cut some off and shave
it down; edge it on both sides except where the parts overlap. Crease
all along the edges, and make one or two rows with the screw-race;
then black, rub, and finish the creases. Leave an opening from the
bend to the next cross line, then put a piece of leather to fill the
space between the cross line and the next to it and wide enough to be
stitched through in working across; then leave the space between the
next two lines open, and stitch down the point of the bend from the
end to the cross line. Stitch along the pricked part and along the
cross lines, the stitches on the latter being twice as coarse as the
straight lines.
There should now be two openings, one at the end and the other beyond
the next stitched part; that at the end is for the throat lash F
(Fig. 71), and the other for the head strap G. Having rubbed the
edges and finished, cut the head strap 1 ft. 10 in. long and 1¼ in.
wide; narrow the ends for the passage of the buckle, crease, black,
and finish. Now cut the throat lash 3 ft. 8 in. long and 1¼ in. wide;
turn in 2 in. for the buckle at the best end and narrow the point to
enter the buckle at the other end; crease, black, finish, stitch on
the buckle and loop, and then finish the loop.
A rein is now cut 5 ft. long and 1¼ in. wide for the off side, and
another 2 ft. 4 in. long for the near side. Turn down the chape for
the buckle in the weakest end of the short rein, and 3 in. at the
best end of each to fasten to the ring at the bit; then edge crease,
finish, and stitch in the buckle and loop, also making a running loop
on the short rein. Now mark four rows of stitching on the double part
about to be stitched to the rings; stitch the shortest part of the
rein with the buckle to the ring hanging by a link from the cheek
ring on the right hand when looking at the front of the bridle, then
stitch the long rein to the ring on the other side. Make three punch
holes on each side of the head strap, equidistant from the point and
from each other, and then six holes in the throat lash, three in the
slits of each winker strap, and nine in the long rein.
The bridle being ready for adjusting, place the head strap up to
its centre in the opening next to the slit in the winker strap;
then fasten each end of the head strap to the cheek buckles through
the second holes. Now place the throat lash in the opening in the
ear-piece on the off side, running it through the outer opening in
the winker strap, down the opening in the other ear-piece, and then
through the buckle at the other end.
Buckle the winker strap slits to the winker buckles, pass them
through the loop, and buckle the rein in the sixth hole; this
completes the bridle. If it is to be polished, coated with jet, or
ornamented, this must be done before putting the parts together.
Cut out all parts according to the dimensions given before beginning
to stitch; this is more workmanlike than cutting the parts as the
work proceeds.