LOOPING.
Some hints on looping will be given in this chapter. The loops are
pieces of leather placed crosswise on all straps, which have buckles,
to keep the point of the strap in its proper position. Sometimes also
loops are employed merely to hold the straps in place, as for example
in the case of shaft tugs. Loops are common to all kinds of straps in
general and to harness and cart gear in particular.
Straps made to exact length with only one hole are cut long enough
beyond the hole to go through the loop, and so give the work a neat
finish. When the unused part of the strap varies considerably in
length, the part run through the buckle being sometimes 6 in. long
and sometimes 3 ft. long, a runner loop must be made to hold the
point of the strap.
A runner is a loop which runs loosely along the strap to any required
part. To make it, one end is laid on the other, overlapping it more
or less according to the size of the loop, and the material is then
stitched; it must be made loose enough for two thicknesses of the
strap to pass easily.
The width of the loops, except in the case of pipe or box loops
(defined later) must always be in proportion with that of the strap;
the broader the strap, the broader is the loop. Taste and a due sense
of proportion are necessary here as elsewhere. The loop must never
be placed too near the buckle, particularly when the strap running
through is stiff. Both ends of the loop should be placed so that they
can be firmly stitched; the first end is stitched easily, but the
second requires more practice. The ends of the loop should be made
to meet in the centre of the strap, care being taken to catch it at
the first stitch, for then it will not easily slip from its place.
Two stitches on each side may suffice, but a very wide loop will need
four or five on both sides of the ends. Slant the awl with every
stitch, using the end of the awl to drive the loop a little out of
the way.
It must not be taken for granted that a firm hold of the loop has
been obtained until it is completely stitched; but make sure of
the work at the first stitch, as otherwise it may be necessary
to unstitch the work and do it again. Care must be taken also to
ascertain that the loop is straight in its place at the first stitch,
and that one side of the same end is not farther in than the other. A
crooked loop spoils the appearance of the whole of the work.
[Illustration: Fig. 67.—Box Creased Loop.]
Box loops (Figs. 67 to 70) or, as they are styled, pipe loops, are
long loops like those on bridle cheeks, bearers of gig breechings,
hame tugs, etc. To make them, measure the length and width of the
loop required; for example, a bridle cheek ¾ in. wide and 8 in. long
will need a loop 1⅜ in. wide and 7¼ in. long.
Before making the loop, crease a line along the place to be stitched,
about ⅛ in. from the edge, and cut a groove along the line to about
half the depth; then open the groove well with the blunt point of a
compass, passing it backwards and forwards. The stitching is done
along this groove, which is finally closed.
[Illustration: Fig. 68.—Box Creased Loops.]
The groove is necessary on account of the coarse stitches, about four
to the inch, which are thus kept out of sight and prevented from
being worn away by friction. Another method is to slit the leather
about 3/16 in. from the side; then to raise it and stitch under it.
When finished, apply a little paste or gum to hold it firm, and
smooth it down over the stitches.
Mark a line on the loop at about half the width of the strap and run
a writing pen along it to keep the mark visible; the loop, being of
brown leather, will retain the mark of the ink, whereas the compass
mark alone would be obliterated by damping. This mark is essential
as a guide in fixing the loop and stitching. Mark the inside of the
loop first time and the outer side the second. Damp the loop well
first. Stitch the first side with black wax three-cord thread about
¼ in. apart; this is an easy job, the difficult point being the
blind-stitching. Put the loop between the winker and the cheek as far
as the mark and put a tack in each end and one in the centre.
[Illustration:
Fig. 69. Fig. 70.
Figs. 69 and 70.—Box Creased Loops.]
The first stitches are simple enough, but when it becomes impossible
to see and reach the hole the awl must be put right through the
loop to the other thread about ¼ in. apart; this is an easy job, the
side, the needle and thread being passed afterwards. Take the needles
off both threads, and by means of a wire hook pull the inside thread
out through the loop until it is 3 in. from the hole it entered. Now
put the awl through the thread close to the loop, run the end of the
other thread through for about 2 in., and pull it through the hole
by the aid of the first thread to the side being stitched. Take out
the end of the thread, put through and pull both extremities until
tight, one in the groove and the other inside the loop. Repeat this
operation with every stitch, but when about half-way through the
loop, the thread inside must be run through to the other end, the
work being continued from that end until finished.
Another method of making box loops, though it is not recommended, is
as follows: Put an iron loop-stick inside and fasten the loop down by
driving small tacks into the groove, this groove being then closed
by rubbing the edges well. A third method consists in running the
threads through with a bristle, or twisting the threads together and
thus running them through.