_A._ By the left pedal at the driver’s feet. If the clutch pedal,
when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not
to come back readily into high, tighten up the slow speed band. Should
the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it
indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever
cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral
position. When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever
the pedal should move forward the distance of 1³⁄₄″ in passing from
high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections are
in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the
car creeping very far ahead. Also be sure that the slow speed band does
not bind on account of being adjusted too tight. Do not use too heavy
a grade of oil in cold weather, as it will have a tendency to congeal
between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.
_Q._ How is the clutch adjusted?
_A._ Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards
at the driver’s seat. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch
finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the
right with a screw driver. Do the same to the other finger set screw.
But be sure to give each the same number of turns and do not forget to
replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service the
wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch
discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screw in too far.
=Caution.= Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects
over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached
to them. It is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the
transmission cover.
_Q._ How are the bands adjusted?
_A._ The slow speed bands may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at
the right side of the transmission cover, and turning up the adjusting
screw to the right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands, remove
the transmission case cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the
shaft to the right. See that the bands do not drag on the drums when
disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the
motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden
pressure will stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in
case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent that they
will not take hold properly, should be relined, so that they will
engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining
is inexpensive and may be had at any of the eight thousand Ford service
stations at small cost.
[Illustration:
Slow Speed Drum and Gear
Triple Gear
Brake Drum
Reverse Drum
and Gear
Clutch Disks
Driven Gear
Disk Drum
Triple Gear Pin
Clutch Push Ring
Trans. Shaft
Driving Plate
Flywheel
Group 1
Clutch Push Ring
Clutch Finger
Driving Plate
Triple Gear
Reverse Gear
Slow Speed Gear
Driven Gear
Clutch Shift
Clutch Spring
Clutch Spring Support
Group 5
Clutch Spring Support Pin
Group 4
Group 3
Group 2
Fig. 150. Ford Transmission Assembly]
_Q._ How are the bands removed?
_A._ Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse
adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme ends of the
pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the
bolts holding the transmission cover to the crank case and lift off
the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first
of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening is
downward. The band may now be removed by lifting upward. The operation
is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so
placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at
top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It is necessary to
shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is
there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the
transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing this operation
the bands may be installed. After being placed in their upright
position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands,
holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover
in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to
rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be
placed in the rear groove of the clutch shaft. With the cover in place
remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being
installed.
_Q._ How is transmission assembled?
_A._ Cut No. 150 shows the transmission parts in their relative
assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of
assembling.
The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as
follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical
position. Place the slow speed plate over the hub with the gear
uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that
the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the
hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position
with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed
gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear
according to the punch marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest
of the triple gear assembly being downward. After making sure that the
triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord
around the outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place
it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in
vertical position. Then invert the group which you have assembled over
the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear
pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will
bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates,
etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission
shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw
in place to hold the drum. Put the large disc over the clutch drum,
then the small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the
entire set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on
top. If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch
in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be
unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the clutch push
rings over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs, with the three
pins projecting upward (_see_ group No. 4, cut No. 149). You will note
the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the
driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch
fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding
further it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the
plates with the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled the
flywheel will revolve freely while holding any of the drums stationary.
The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows:
Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the
ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the clutch spring, placing the
clutch supports inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil
of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving
plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then
turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the
bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring
sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch
finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening up the clutch
again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two
and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch spring slipping.
Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are
adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around.
VII
THE REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
_Q._ How is the rear axle removed?
_A._ Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed below. Take out
the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission
case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring
perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and
the axle can be easily withdrawn.
_Q._ How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive shaft?
_A._ Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn
shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and joint can be
pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.
_Q._ How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?
_A._ With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end
of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear
axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential
together. If necessary to disassemble differential a very slight
mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do
it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin,
bolt and key lock back in its correct position when reassembling.
_Q._ How is the drive shaft pinion removed?
_A._ The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is
tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the
shaft, and then secured by a cotter pinned “castle” nut. Remove the
castle nut, and drive the pinion off.
_Q._ How are the differential gears removed?
_A._ The compensating gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear
axle shaft. They work upon the spider gears when turning a corner,
so that the axle shaft revolves independently, but when the car is
moving in a straight line the spider gears and compensating gears and
axle shaft move as an integral part. If you will examine the rear
axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and held in
position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the
rear axle shaft. To remove the compensating gears, force them down on
the shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, drive
out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw driver or
chisel, then force the gears off the end of the shafts.
[Illustration:
Universal Joint Knuckle (Male)
Joint Housing
Joint Coupling Ring
Universal Joint Knuckle (Female)
Radius Rod Castle Nut
Radius Rod Lock Nut
Drive Shaft Front Bushing
Rear Radius Rod
Drive Shaft Tube
Drive Shaft
Ball Race
Ball Thrust Collar
Drive Shaft Pinion
Driving Gear
Drive Gear Screws
Drive Shaft
Drive Shaft Tube
Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing Housing
Roller Bearing
Roller Bearing Sleeve
Castle Nut
Differential Pinion
Differential Spider
Differential Gear
Rear Axle Housing (Right)
Thrust Washers
Rear Radius Rod
Rear Axle Brake Drum
Hub Brake Cam Shaft
Hub Brake Cam Shaft Lever
Radius Rod Bolt and Nut
Lock Wire
Thrust Washer (Steel)
Thrust Washer (Babbitt)
Thrust Washer (Steel)
Gear Case (Left)
Mud Cap
Cotter Pin
Castle Nut
Hub Key
Hub
Hub Flange
Roller Bearing Sleeve
Roller Bearing
Axle Housing Cap
Axle Roller Bearing Steel Washer
Brake Shoe Support Bolt and Nut
Rear Axle Shaft
Rear Axle Roller Bearing Sleeve
Rear Axle Roller Bearing
Rear Axle Housing (Left)
Gear Case (Right)
Differential Case Stud
Grease Plug
Fig. 151. Ford Rear Axle System]
_Q._ How is the rear axle shaft removed?
_A._ Disconnect rear axle as directed above, then unbolt the
drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the
differential. Disconnect the two radius rods at the outer end of the
housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle
housing together at the center. Take the inner differential casing
apart and draw the axle shaft through the housing at the center. After
replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged
on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position.
When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to
remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that
might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels
are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against
the key may in time cause serious trouble. If the rear axle or wheel
is sprung by skidding against the curb, or other accident, it is false
economy to drive the car, as tires, gears and all other parts will
suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities, be
straightened, but it is best to replace it.
[Illustration:
Axle Housing Cap
Hub Key
Lock Nut
Hub Brake Drum
Coil Spring
Hub Brake Cam
Axle Shaft
Hub Brake Shoe
Fig. 152. Ford Brake]
VIII
THE FORD MUFFLER
_Q._ Why is the muffler necessary?
_A._ The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe
would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the
muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is liberated
into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force of the
exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler
with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that
there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently
there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out on the exhaust pipe
between the engine and the muffler.
_Q._ How is the muffler kept in order?
_A._ It should be cleaned occasionally. Remove it and take off nuts on
ends of rods which hold it together, and disassemble.
In reassembling muffler, be careful not to get the holes in the inner
shells on the same side or end.
_Q._ How is the muffler disconnected?
_A._ To disconnect the muffler it is not necessary to disconnect the
exhaust pipe from the motor (although it is a good plan and a simple
matter, necessitating only unscrewing the union). To disconnect muffler
from frame, unscrew union at formed end of pipe, drop it down so it
will clear the frame and slip it back off the tube. If the muffler from
any cause becomes materially damaged it will probably be cheaper to
replace it with a new one than to attempt to repair it.
IX
THE RUNNING GEAR
_Q._ What care should the running gear have?
_A._ In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication
(_see_ chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and
rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part,
such as the bushings in spring connections, spring hangers, steering
knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lubricated, and that all
nuts and connections are secured with center pins in place. The spring
clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected
frequently to see that every thing is in perfect order.
[Illustration:
Spindle oiler
Spindle Bolt
Spindle Body Bushing
Spindle Con. Rod Bolt
Spindle Con. Rod Yoke
Spindle Arm
Spoke
Felt Washer
Hub Bolt
Large Ball Race
Hub Flange
Hub
Spindle
Grease Chamber
Ball Bearings
Adjusting Cone
Lock Nut
Hub Cap
Washer
Ball Retainer
Small Ball Race
Clamp Bolt
Spindle Arm Nut
Spindle Body Bushing
Spidle Bolt Nut
Stationary Cone
Ball Retainer
Dust Ring
Fig. 153. Ford Spindle]
_Q._ How is the front axle removed?
_A._ Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed. Disconnect steering
gear arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at
ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each
side, so detaching front spring.
To disconnect radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball
joint and remove lower half of cap.
_Q._ In case of accident, how is the front axle straightened?
_A._ Should the axle or spindle become bent, extreme care must be used
to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, as this
will distemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If convenient
it would be better to return such parts to the factory, where they
may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It
is very essential that the wheels line up properly. The eye is not
sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly
straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if
everything is not in perfect alignment.
_Q._ What about the wheels?
_A._ The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only
for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning
a front wheel a sharp click is heard, now and then, and the wheel
is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is a chipped or
split ball in the bearing which should be removed, otherwise it may
necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect
adjustment should after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve
directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings, such as cones,
balls and races, is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive
friction, due to the adjusting cone being drawn up too tight. It is a
good plan to clean the bearing frequently and keep the hub well filled
with grease.
_Q._ How are the wheels removed?
_A._ _Front wheels._ Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew
castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be
taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the
cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they
were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads
which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you
stand facing the car. _Back wheels._ They should not be removed unless
absolutely necessary, in which case proceed as above. Then with a wheel
puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked
with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is
as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear
wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the
hub in place tightened. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the
resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.
_Q._ How does the setting of the front wheels differ from that of the
rear wheels?
_A._ It will be observed that the front wheels are “dished”; that is,
the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet
side stresses with less rigid resistance, while the spokes of the rear
wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle, that
is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about
three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect
steering qualities and to save wear on tires when turning corners.
The front wheels should not, however, “toe-in” at the front, at least
not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of
the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should
be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment,
otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear will be greatly
increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end
of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel
position.
_Q._ What care do the springs need?
_A._ The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite.
To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant
between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the
springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery
cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust
can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them
when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that
these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding
qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.
_Q._ Should spring clips be kept tight?
_A._ Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire
strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the center of the
spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame
and body to shift to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect
the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are
kept tight.
_Q._ What about the steering apparatus?
_A._ It is exceedingly simple and will need little care except, of
course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the
“sun and planet” form are located at the top of the post just below the
hub of the wheel. By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap
after having removed the steering wheel they may readily be inspected
and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel unscrew the
nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block
of wood and hammer.
_Q._ How is the steering gear tightened?
_A._ Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight
movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be
tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves of the
ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the
steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the
ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new
one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear
connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering spindle
arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new
ones. Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one
of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and
forth. After the car has been in service two or three years excessive
play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little
pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the
steering wheel spider.
It is also advisable to inspect the front spring hangers occasionally
to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any
excessive vibration.
X
THE FORD LUBRICATING SYSTEM
_Q._ How does the Ford lubricating system differ from others?
_A._ It is simplified,--and there are fewer places to oil. Practically
all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the Ford
splash system, from the one big oil reservoir in the crank case. Fig.
154 shows the principal points of lubrication, and specifies when
replenishment should be made, according to mileage. This chart should
be studied carefully and often. It is a good plan to frequently supply
all oil cups with the same oil used in the engine (any good light grade
lubricating oil will answer) and the dope cups with good grease. Be
sure to see that the commutator is kept freely supplied with oil at all
times.
_Q._ Which is the best way to fill the dope cups?
_A._ When it is advisable to fill the dope cup covers screw them down,
refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times. Always
open oil cups by turning to the right, as this keeps tightening them
rather than loosening them. Occasionally remove front wheels and supply
dope to wearing surface. A drop of oil now and then in crank handle
bearing is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and shaft. The axles,
drive shaft, and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant when
the car leaves the factory, but it is well to examine and oil them
frequently.
[Illustration:
A--Oil Every 200 Miles.
C--Grease Every 200 Miles.
B--Oil Every 500 Miles.
D--Grease Every 500 Miles.
E--Grease Every 1000 Miles.
F--Oil Motor Daily. Keep oil level between
crank case pet cocks.
G--Grease Every 5000 Miles.
Fig. 154. Ford Chassis Oiling Chart]
_Q._ What kind of oil should be used?
_A._ We recommend only light high grade gas engine oil for use in
the model T motor. A light grade of oil is preferred as it will
naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and consequently less
heat will develop on account of friction. The oil should, however,
have sufficient body so that the pressure between the two bearing
surfaces will not force the oil out and allow the metal to come in
actual contact. Heavy and inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize
quickly, also “gum up” the piston rings, valve stems and bearing. In
cold weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely
essential for the proper lubrication of the car. The nearest Ford
branch will advise you concerning the lubricating oil this company
has found best suited for its cars, both for summer and winter
weather. Graphite should not be used as a lubricant in the engine or
transmission as it will have a tendency to short circuit the magneto.
_Q._ How often should the oil be drained from crank cases?
_A._ It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining out the
dirty oil when the new car has been driven four or five hundred miles;
thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this operation about
every thousand miles. Remove plug underneath the flywheel casing and
drain off the oil. Replace the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene
oil through the breather pipe. Turn the engine over by hand fifteen or
twenty times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly
clean the engine. Remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil. In
order to get all of the kerosene out of the depressions in the crank
case the car should be run up a little incline, about the height of the
ordinary street curbing. Refill with fresh oil.
_Q._ How often should the commutator be oiled?
_A._ Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater
importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary in order to
have a smooth operating engine. Do not be afraid to put a little oil
into the commutator every other day--at least every two hundred miles.
Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly, and without
sufficient oil the parts soon become badly worn. When in this condition
perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is
impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a
good rate of speed.
_Q._ What about lubricating the differentials?
_A._ Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the
differential housing. The housing should not be more than one-third
full. The differential is supplied with the required amount of
lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil plug should be
removed about every 1000 miles and more grease added if necessary. If a
fluid is used the level should be approximately one and one-half inches
below the oil hole.
XI
CARE OF TIRES
_Q._ How are Ford tires removed?
_A._ First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should
be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into
the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen up
the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing
with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the
beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold
on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to pinch the inner
tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted
in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and a
third tool the same distance from the second. As a cylinder tire must
be pried over the clinch, three or four levers will come in handy in
a case of a “one man job,” and the knee of the driver can be used to
good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being
manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a
length of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing
may be readily detached with the hand, and the damaged inner tube
removed and “patched” or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of
soapstone in replacing an inner tube.
_Q._ How are casings repaired?
_A._ Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube
being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a
canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before applying the patch the
part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when
dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and patch. This will answer
as an emergency repair, but the casing should be vulcanized at the
first opportunity.
To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread
should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared
“plastic” sold by tire companies.
_Q._ How may tire expense be reduced?
_A._ Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the
running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the least
expense, the tire should be inspected frequently and all small cuts
or holes properly sealed or repaired,--thus preventing dirt and water
working in between the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or
sand boils.
Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are
unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stress, which is known as rim
cutting. The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by
keeping your tires properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less
surface to the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects
that would penetrate a soft tire.
Running a flat tire, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly.
Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat
tire.
Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires.
Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes,--no tire will stand the
strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion.
Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the side of the
tire against the curbing.
The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust.
When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it should be
jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the car is laid up for
many months, it is best to remove the tires, and wrap up the outer
casings and inner tubes separately, and store them in a dark room not
exposed to extreme temperature. Remove oil or grease from the tires
with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and oil are three natural
enemies to rubber.
_Q._ How is a puncture in the inner tube repaired?
_A._ After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around
the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then rough the surface with sand
paper from your tire repair kit to give a hold for the cement. Apply
the cement to both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for about five
minutes, repeating the application twice with like intervals between
for drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against
the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it
and insure proper adherence to the surface. Then spread some soapstone
or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to
the casing. Before the tube is put back into the casing plenty of
talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter. A cement patch is
not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as
possible. In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch
the tube.
XII
POINTS ON MAINTENANCE
_Q._ What is the proper way to wash the car?
_A._ Always use cold or lukewarm water,--never hot water. If a hose
is used, do not turn on the water at full force, as this drives the
dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus mud
and grime have been washed off, take a sponge and clean the body and
running gear with a tepid solution of water and ivory or linseed oil
soap. Then rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body
with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may
be used to add luster to the car. Grease on the running gear may be
removed with a gasoline soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be
polished with any good metal polish.
_Q._ What care does the top need?
_A._ When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the
fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a
hole through the top very quickly. Always slip the hood over the top
when folded to keep out dust and dirt. Applying a good top dressing
will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.
_Q._ What should be done when the car is stored?
_A._ Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart
of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly
remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in
combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from
the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed above.
Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to
cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them
away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of
muslin to protect the finish.
_Q._ What attention do the electric headlights require?
_A._ Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are
properly focussed and unless the bulb burns out there should be no
occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of
order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be
exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with
anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps
turn the adjusting screw in the back of the lamp in either direction
until the desired focus is attained. The bulbs we are furnishing in
electric head lamps are 8 volts, 2 amperes, and best results will
be obtained by securing lamps of this voltage and amperage when
replacement is necessary.
XIII
THE FORD MODEL T ONE TON TRUCK
_Q._ Do the instructions relative to the car apply to the truck?
_A._ The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck.
_Q._ How is the rear axle removed?
_A._ Jack up the truck, place supports under rear axle housings,
and remove the rear wheels. Take out the four bolts connecting the
universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake
rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges.
Raise frame by placing a long iron bar or gas pipe under the frame just
in front of rear spring, one end resting on a substantial support of
the proper height. Two workmen at the other end of the bar can raise
the frame and place the end of the bar on another support. The rear
axle assembly can then be easily removed.
_Q._ How is the universal joint disconnected from the drive shaft?
_A._ Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn
shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be
pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.
_Q._ How are the rear axle and differential disassembled?
_A._ With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front
end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft
tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle housing
cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential
housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the manner of
disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get every
part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use
new paper liners.
_Q._ How is the worm removed?
_A._ To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to
the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing
sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive
the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from
the coupling. Removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the
retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In
reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer
stationary is in place.
_Q._ How is the rear axle shaft removed?
_A._ Remove the rear axle assembly as directed above. Disconnect brake
rods and radius rods at rear axle housing flange; also remove nuts
holding spring perches to flanges. Take out the cap screws holding the
drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing and remove the rear axle
housing cap and the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential
housing together, then pull or force the housing from the shafts and
disassemble differential. After replacing the axle shaft be sure that
the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft
and the key in proper position. When the truck has been driven thirty
days or so make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock
nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely
important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant
rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious
trouble.
_Q._ How is the differential gear removed from the shaft?
_A._ The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear
axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a ring which
is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove
the gear, force it down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to
which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in
shaft with screw driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of
the shaft.
_Q._ What about lubricating the rear axle?
_A._ Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An
A-1 heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore’s
Worm Gear Protective, should be used and cared at a level with the
upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required amount
of lubricant when the car leaves the factory and the supply should be
maintained by replenishments as required. After running the truck about
500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil
plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation
should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever
necessary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means
of dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of
grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck
back into service after the rear axle has been taken out fill the
differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten
minutes to insure proper lubricant of all bearings.
XIV
THE F. A. STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM INSTALLED ON SEDANS AND COUPÉS
_Q._ Of what does the starting and lighting system consist?
_A._ The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and
consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, charging
indicator, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and
connections.
_Q._ Where is the starter located?
_A._ The starting motor is mounted on the left hand side of the engine
and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on
the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.
_Q._ What must be done before starting the engine?
_A._ The spark and the throttle levers should be placed in the same
position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand, and the ignition
switch turned on. Current from either battery or magneto may be used
for ignition. When starting, especially when the engine is cold the
ignition switch should be turned to battery. As soon as the engine is
warmed up, turn switch back to magneto. The magneto was designed to
furnish ignition for the Model T engine and better results will be
obtained by operating in this way. Special attention must be paid to
the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause
serious backfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the
starter. The starting motor is operated by a push button, conveniently
located in the floor of the car at the driver’s feet. With the spark
and throttle levers in the proper position, and the ignition switch
turned on, press on the push button with the foot. This closes the
circuit between the battery and the starting motor, causing the pinion
of the Bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel,
thus turning over the crank shaft. When the engine is cold it may be
necessary to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod, which
is located on the instrument board. In order to avoid flooding the
engine with an over rich mixture of gas, the priming rod should only be
held out for a few seconds at a time.
_Q._ What if the engine fails to start?
_A._ If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the
engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting system. In
this event, release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily
discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to
determine the trouble.
_Q._ What if the starting motor fails to act?
_A._ If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button,
first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two terminals
on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch, making sure
all the connections are tight; then examine the wiring for a break in
the insulation that would cause a short circuit. If the wiring and
connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the
battery with the hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than
1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.
_Q._ How is the generator operated?
_A._ The generator is mounted on the right hand side of the engine and
bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is operated by the pinion on
the armature shaft engaging with the large time gear. The charging rate
of the generator is set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding
to ten miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging rate
at twenty miles per hour. At higher speeds the charge will taper off,
which is a settled characteristic of battery charging. This operation
of cutting in and cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the
cut-out, which is mounted on the dash. This cut-out is set properly at
the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered with.
_Q._ What about oiling?
_A._ The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the
same as the engine and the transmission. The generator is lubricated by
a splash of oil from the time gears. In addition an oil cup is located
at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil should be
applied occasionally.
_Q._ What should be done when repairing the ignition?
_A._ The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will
discharge the magnets and whenever repairing the ignition system or
tampering with the wiring in any way, do not fail to disconnect the
positive wire from the battery. The end of this wire should be wound
with tape to prevent its coming in contact with the ignition system or
metal parts of the car.
_Q._ How does the charging indicator work?
_A._ The charging indicator is located on the instrument board. This
indicator registers “charge” when the generator is charging the battery
and “discharge” when the lights are burning and the engine not running
above ten miles per hour. At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour or
more the indicator should show a reading of from 10 to 12 even with the
lights burning. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and
the indicator does not show “charge,” first inspect the terminal posts
on the indicator, making sure that the connections are tight, then
disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator, and with the engine
running at a moderate speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw driver
and short circuit the terminal stud on the generator to the generator
housing. If the generator is O.K., a good live spark will be noted. (Do
not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the terminal wire
disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from the generator through the
charging indicator to the battery for a break in the insulation that
would result in a short circuit.
_Q._ How are the lights operated?
_A._ The lighting system consists of two 2-bulb headlights and a tail
light operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on
the instrument board. The large bulbs are of 6-8 candle-power type. The
small bulbs of 6-8 volt two candle-power type. The small bulb is also
used in the tail light. All of the lamps are connected in parallel so
that the burning out or removal of any one of them will not effect the
other. Current for the lamps is supplied by the battery. Do not connect
the lights with the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs
and might discharge the magnets.
_Q._ What about repairing starter and generator?
_A._ If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service,
the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford dealer. If the
trouble is not found in the wiring, connections, etc., as outlined, the
dealer will remove the starter or generator, or both if necessary, and
return them intact to the nearest branch for repair or replacement.
Dealers or owners should not attempt to repair or tamper in any way
with the mechanism of the starter and generator.
_Q._ How is the starter removed?
_A._ When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for
any other reason, first remove the engine pan and the left hand side
of the engine and with a screw driver remove the four small screws
holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover. Upon removing cover
and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw
on the end of the shaft is in the upward position. Immediately under
the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with lips or extensions
opposite each other on the outside diameter. One of these is turned
against the collar and the other is turned up against the side of the
screw head. Bend back the lip which has been forced against the screw
and remove the set screw. As the lock washer will no doubt be broken or
weakened in removing the starter, a new one must be used in replacing
it. These washers may be obtained from the nearest branch. Next, pull
the Bendix assembly out of the housing, being careful that the small
key is not misplaced or lost. Remove the four screws which hold the
starter housing to the transmission cover and pull out the starter,
taking same down through the chassis,--this is why it was necessary
to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be used in removing the
Bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and
that they are replaced in their former positions. In replacing the
starter, be sure that the terminal connection is placed at the top.
If the car is to be operated with the starter removed, be sure to put
the transmission cover plates in position. These plates may also be
obtained from the nearest branch.
_Q._ How is the generator removed?
_A._ If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take out
the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing
the point of a screw driver between the generator and front end cover;
the generator may be forced off the engine assembly. Always start at
the top of the generator and force it backward and downward at the same
time. Plates may be obtained from the nearest branch to place over the
time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed.
_Q._ Can the engine be run with the generator disconnected from the
battery?
_A._ If for any reason it is run with the generator disconnected from
the battery, as on a block test, or when battery has been removed for
repair or recharging, be sure that the generator is grounded to the
engine by running a wire from the terminal on generator to one of the
valve cover stud nuts. A piece of wire ¹⁄₁₆″ or more in diameter may
be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections at both ends of
the wire are tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the
generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury
to the generator.
_Q._ What about the care of the battery, repairing of recharging?
_A._ The Ford Starting System uses a 6-volt 13-plate “Exide” battery,
type 3-XC-13-1. The care of the battery in service is summed up in the
following rules:
1. Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough
to keep the plates covered at all times. Distilled water, melted
artificial ice or rain water collected in clean receptacles is
recommended. In cold weather add water only just before running the
engine so that the charging may mix the water and the electrolyte and
freezing of the water be avoided.
2. Take frequent hydrometer readings to make sure that the generator
is keeping the battery charged. To take reading remove filler cap of
cell, insert end of hydrometer syringe in filler opening, squeeze bulb,
and release, drawing up enough liquid to float hydrometer bulb free
in the liquid. The reading of the scale at the surface of the liquid
when hydrometer is floating in the specific gravity (density) of the
electrolyte. A fully charged battery will show a reading of 1.275 to
1.300. A battery half charged will show a reading of 1.225 to 1.250.
A completely discharged battery will show a reading of 1.200 or less.
When taking hydrometer readings remove the filler cap from only one
cell at a time and be sure to return electrolyte to the cell from which
it was taken. Then replace and tighten the filler cap. Hydrometer tests
taken immediately after filling with water and before water has become
thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show the true condition
of the battery.
3. If hydrometer reading shows battery less than half charged it should
be taken to the nearest Exide Battery Service Station for recharging.
Continued operation in a less than half charged condition is injurious
to the battery, just as running in a soft or deflated condition is
injurious to the tires.
4. Keep the filler caps in place and screwed tight,--a half turn
tightens them. Keep battery connections tight and clean. A coating of
heavy oil or vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion. Keep
battery firmly secured in place. If hold-downs are loose battery will
shift about in compartment and result in loose connections, broken
cells or other trouble.
5. Exide Battery Stations are maintained in principal cities and towns
throughout the country to assist you to obtain good service from your
battery. Do not entrust your battery to the care of a novice.
_Q._ What about battery guarantee?
_A._ The Exide batteries are guaranteed by the manufacturers (The
Electric Storage Battery Company, Philadelphia, Pa.) to be free from
defects in material and workmanship.
At any time within three months from date of delivery to the purchaser
any battery which may prove to be defective or incapable, when fully
charged, of giving its rated capacity, will be repaired or replaced
free of expense upon receipt, transportation charges prepaid, at any
Exide Battery Depot or authorized Exide Battery Service Station. This
guarantee does not cover the free charging of batteries nor the making
good of damage resulting from continued lack of filling the cells from
time to time with pure water. No claims on account of alleged defects
can be allowed unless made within three months of date of delivery of
battery to purchaser, and the right is reserved to refuse to consider
claims in the case of batteries opened by other than authorized Exide
Battery Service Stations.
Purchasers of cars equipped with the “Exide” batteries are earnestly
urged to coöperate with the battery manufacturers to taking their
cars, as promptly as possible after receipt, by the nearest Exide
Battery Service Station in order that the battery may be tested and
its condition and installation checked. No charge is made for this
inspection.
INDEX
PAGE
Accumulator 99
Alignment 229
Alternating current 96
Ammeter 99
Ampere 95
Atwater Kent ignition systems 126
Automobile arrangement of parts 245
painting 262
troubles 264
Axles 212
dead, type 212
front 214
full-floating 213
live, type 212
semi-floating 212
Battery, storage 99
Bearings, types of 236
Bijur starter mechanism 151
Body, care and washing 253
Borg and Beck clutch 192
Bosch Magneto, operation of 105
cutting out ignition 110
safety spark gap 109
timing of 106
Brakes, operation of 218
care of 221
equalizer 220
Breaker box and distributor head assembly, N.E. 117
Cam shaft 18
Cam shaft drive 19
Car, arrangement and parts, cleaning 243
care, cleaning and washing 253
Carburetion 46
Carburetor, types, operation 46
adjustments of 56
kerosene, principle of operation 76
adjustment 78
Charging rate, adjustment 165
Choking coil 97
Circuit breaker 100
Clutch, construction of 189
cone type 191
multiple disc type 192
leathers and patterns 196
Coil, non-vibrating 100
Commutator 97
Condenser 97
Contact breaker 100
Cooling system, necessity, types and care 82
Crank shaft, counterbalanced 17
four-throw plain 17
Current, high tension, low tension 95
Cylinder head 14
Delco, electrical system 96
Differential gears 207
Direct current 96
Disc clutch, cleaning 195
Distributor 100
Electric starter and light equipment 147
Electrical, equipment 154
systems 153
tuning hints 259
Electrolyte 99
Engine, 4-cycle type, operation of 29
assembly of 36
care and cleaning of 253
construction and parts 12
Evaporation 84
Exact magneto timing 108
Filling vacuum tank 94
Flywheel, types, care of 20
Ford car, operation and care of 269
cooling system 287
engine, operation and care of 277
maintenance 280
valve arrangement 279
valve grinding 280
valve timing 279
gasoline system 290
ignition system 295
lubrication system 316
maintenance points 323
muffler 310
one-ton truck 325
rear axle assembly 307
running gear 311
starting and lighting system 328
Ford car, tire care 320
transmission system 301
Fuse, construction, use of 97
Gasoline engine construction 12
parts assembly 36
Gear, shifts 200
box arrangement 201
Generator 147
Greases 40
Heated manifolds 79
High speed 189
High tension current 95
Hydrometer syringe 99
Induction coil 96
Ignition coil, N.E. type 117
Ignition distributor, N.E. type 116
Kick switch arrangement 137
coil 137
Lamp controllers 159
Lens, cleaning of 254
Lubrication, of spring leaves 224
systems 39
Magneto, parts, operation of 101
timing of 113
washing, repair 111
Main bearings 17
Manifold, action of 80
Mechanical alignment 230
Mufflers, design, care of 86
cleaning 87
Multiple cylinders 12
North East Automatic spark advance 121
breaker cam 120
breaker contacts 119
ignition system 114
starter system 161
Ohm 95
Oils, quality, grade of 40
Oil reservoir 19
One unit, electrical system 148
Overhauling car 247
Overheating 83
Operation of starter 156
Philbrin ignition system 141
Pistons 15
Piston rings 15
rod bearings 16
rods 16
wrist pins 15
Plunger pump oiling system, operation of 42
Power stroke 31
lapping 32
Poppet valve, construction 23
adjustment 23
operation 23
Radiator, cleaning 83
freezing 84
solutions 84
repairs 84
Regulation of generator 100
Repair equipment 25
Rug cleaning 254
Running gear, washing of 253
Schebler-carburetor, model R, adjustment of 63
Ford “A,” adjustment of 74
Ford “A,” operation of 73
Semi-floating axle, operation of 212
Spark plugs, construction of 186
care of 186
Splash oiling system 40
care of 41
cleaning of 41
Spring, care, tests 225
types, care of 226
Starter-Generator, operation of 163
Starting motor, operation of 149
Steering gear, types 232
adjustment of 233
care of 235
Stewart carburetor, operation, care of and maintenance 65
Storage battery, operation of 180
charging 182
freezing 185
maintenance 182
Strainer for gasoline 93
Stroke 31
Stromberg carburetor, model M 47
model L 58
Sunderman carburetor, action of 60
Switches 100
Three unit, electrical system 148
Tire, build, quality 256
chains 257
rim care 254
Top, care of 254
Transmissions 198
gear shifts 200
box arrangement 201
care of 202
Tube, care 258
repairing 258
Two unit, electrical system 148
Universal joints 204
Upholstering 254
Vacuum systems 89
cleaning strainer 93
Vacuum systems, operation of 90
troubles 93
Valve, types, arrangement of 21
grinding 25
setting 24
sleeve type 26
setting of 27
timing marks 25
Voltage 95
Voltaic cells 99
Water cooling 82
Water vents 16
Wheels, lining up 229
Windshield, cleaning and care 99
Wiring 114
Wrapping springs 224
Wrist pins 15
bushings 15
Transcriber’s Notes
The text used for this e-text is that as printed in the source
document. Unless listed under Changes below, inconsistent spelling
and hyphenation, the inconsistent use of quote marks surrounding
reference letters or model and type letters, the inconsistent use of
per cent with and without full stop, etc. have not been standardised.
The automobile brand consistently called Jeffrey in the text was
actually called Jeffery. The (minor) differences in wording and
structure between the table of contents and the text have not been
standardised.
Depending on the hard- and software used to read this text and their
settings, not all elements may display as intended.
Page 8: there are no seventeenth and eighteenth items listed; items
nineteen and twenty are cardinal rather than ordinal numbers in the
source document.
Page 14, Fig. 3: the oddly shaped cylinder head is as printed in the
source document.
Page 33, ... Twin, Four, and Six Cylindered Motors ... and ... a case
where two, four, or two six cylindered motors are set ...: as printed
in the source document; the commas between Twin and Four and between
two and four are possibly erroneous.
Page 35, calculation of piston displacement: the calculation results
in 192.42 cubic inches.
Page 54: Fig. 32 shows an exterior photograph ...: as printed in the
source document; Fig. 32 is obviously a drawing.
Page 128 and 135: Fig. 68 and Fig. 75 and their captions are
identical in the source document.
Page 159 and 183: Fig. 91 and Fig. 103 and their captions are
identical in the source document.
Page 205 Whitemore and page 327 Whittemore: possibly misspellings of
Whitmore.
Changes
Most tables and illustrations have been moved out of text paragraphs.
In some tables and lists the ditto character has been replaced with
the dittoed text.
Some minor obvious typographical and punctuation errors have been
corrected silently.
Above or underneath some illustrations indented texts provide
transcriptions of the explanatory and descriptive texts inside the
accompanying illustration. These transcriptions do not occur as
such in the source document but have been provided for the sake of
legibility and searchability.
Page xii: page number 126 inserted.
Page 1-2: Daimler was consistently spelled Diamler; this has been
corrected.
Page 3: Marquis de Doin changed to Marquis de Dion.
Page 33: ... a staggard position ... changed to ... a staggered
position ....
Page 47: ... through a verticle channel ... changed to ... through a
vertical channel ....
Page 47, 48: ... air bled jet ... changed to ... air bleed jet ... (2
×).
Page 70: ... which embodies a radically new principal ... changed to
... which embodies a radically new principle ....
Page 82: It acts on the principal that ... changed to It acts on the
principle that ....
Page 84: ... its freezing point being 8% below zero ... changed to
... its freezing point being 8° below zero ....
Page 87: ... are scrapped and rubbed ... changed to ... are scraped
and rubbed ....
Page 98: reference letters A-F in paragraph Dynamo changed to lower
case as in illustration.
Page 117: ... the verticle shaft bearing sleeve ... changed to ...
the vertical shaft bearing sleeve ....
Page 126: ... which eliminate troubles ... changed to ... which
eliminates troubles ....
Page 152: Figs. 87 (Position 2A) and 87A (Position 3) have been
placed in the right order.
Page 169: ... in contact with the ear ... changed to ... in contact
with the gear ....
Page 178: ... shown at D and C (Fig. 99) ... changed to ... shown at
D and C (Fig. 100) ....
Page 231: ... E-EL lines drawn through the spindles will meet at F
... changed to ... e-e1 lines drawn through the spindles will meet at
E ...; ... the lines E and E1 meet at different angles ... changed to
... the lines e and e1 meet at different angles ....
Page 260: ... the nearest mettle part. changed to ... the nearest
metal part.
Page 333: ... show a reading of 1,200 or less. changed to ... show a
reading of 1.200 or less.