CARBON REMOVING
It is necessary to remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and piston heads at frequent intervals in order to maintain an
economical and efficient motor.
There are various methods and ways of doing this without removing the
casting or cylinder head; that is, providing regular attention is given
to prevent the deposit from baking and forming in a shale which can be
removed only by burning or scraping.
There are a number of carbon removing compounds on the market which
give excellent satisfaction, although some of these compounds may prove
very harmful unless the directions are followed very carefully.
A great many owners use kerosene once or twice a month. An ounce or two
may be poured into each cylinder while they are quite warm and allowed
to stand for several hours. The motor is then turned over a few times
which allows the kerosene to escape through the valves. The particles
of carbon are blown out through the muffler when the motor is started.
Others prefer to feed it into the motor through the carburetor. This
is done by speeding up the motor and feeding a little at a time into
the float chamber or air valve. Others use chloroform, turpentine, and
alcohol in the same way.
The latest method is to take the car to a garage and have the carbon
burnt out occasionally with a carbon dioxide flame. This vaporizes and
consumes the carbon and blows it out in the form of soot. The flame of
an acetylene welding outfit may be used successfully. Great care must
be taken to prevent fire. The carburetor is removed and the fuel line
drained and tied out of range of the flame.
TROUBLES
--------------------+------------------------+------------------------
TROUBLE |CAUSE |REMEDY
--------------------+------------------------+------------------------
Motor misses |Worn piston rings |New oversize rings
Motor misses |Pitted valve seats |Grind in valve seats
Motor misses |Loose locknut, tappets |Adjust tappets
Motor misses |Gas. mixture too heavy |Adjust carburetor
Motor misses |Gas. mixture too thin |Adjust carburetor
Motor misses |Contact points worn |Adjust points
Motor misses |Loose cable connections |Connect to terminal
| |posts
Motor misses |Cracked piston head |Replace piston
Motor misses |Cracked water jacket |Weld, rebore cylinder
Motor heats |Poor circulation |Flush out radiator
Motor heats |Insufficient lubrication|Clean oiling system
Motor heats |Excessive carbon deposit|_See_ chapter on Carbon
| |Removing
Motor heats |Cracked piston ring |Replace rings
Motor heats |Scored cylinder wall |Rebore cylinder
Motor heats |Tight main bearings |Lubricate plentifully
Motor heats |Heavy gas mixture |Adjust carburetor
Motor heats |Cylinders missing |_See_ Motor Misses
Motor heats |Worn distributor contact|Replace spring on block
|spring |
Motor back-fires |Lean mixture |Adjust carburetor
Motor back-fires |Valve open |Reseat valve, adj.
| |tappet
Motor back-fires |Ignition off time |_See_ ignition systems
Motor fails to start|Lack of gasoline |Fill tank
Motor fails to start|Vacuum in fuel tank |Open air hole in cap
Motor fails to start|Lack of current |Close circuit
Motor fails to start|Short circuit |Tape conductor at point
Motor fails to start|Discharged battery |Test with hydrometer;
| |have recharged
Motor fails to start|Lack of fuel |Clean carburetor
Motor fails to start|Lack of fuel |Clean screen at fuel
| |entrance to vacuum
| |system
Motor fails to start|Lack of fuel |Clean pipe from vacuum
| | system to carburetor
Motor fails to start|Ignition fouled |Clean corrosion from
| | terminals
Motor fails to start|Breaker points stuck |Redress lightly with
| |finger nail file
Motor fails to start|Plugs improperly set |Close points to
| |thickness of a dime
Motor fails to start|Oil on points |Clean plugs and screw
| |down tightly
Motor fails to start|Cracked porcelain |New plug
Motor fails to start|Open valves |Grind or reset valves
Motor fails to start|Valves stuck |Polish stems
Motor fails to start|Weak valve springs |Replace springs
Motor fails to start|Open circuit |Close switch
Motor misses |Defective spark plug |Replace
Motor misses |Disconnected wires |Connect up tightly
Motor misses |Dirty plugs |Clean
Motor misses |Poor compression |Replace gasket
| |New piston rings
Motor vibrates |Loose frame connection |Draw bolts down
Motor vibrates |Pistons sticking |Increase lubrication
Motor vibrates |Pistons weight uneven |Balance evenly
Motor vibrates |Defective spark plug |Clean, replace plug
Motor kicks |Preignition |Time ignition system
Motor kicks |Carbon, combustion |Scrape out, burn out
|chamber |
Motor knock head |Wrist pin bearing loose |Give pin ¹⁄₄ turn
Motor knock head |Loose connecting rod |Tighten upper bearing
Motor knock head |Valve slap |Adjust tappet
Motor knock base |Connecting rod loose |Adjust remove shim
Motor knock base |Main bearing loose |Adjust remove shim
Motor rumble |Flywheel loose |Adjust reseat
Motor rumble |Fan bearing loose |Adjust grease
Motor tipping |Fan blade strikes |Adjust bend blade
|radiator |
Motor tapping |Tappet worn |Adjust tighten lock nut
Motor compression |Thread stretch |Tighten head bolts
poor | |
Motor compression |Gasket burned or blown |Replace, new gasket
poor | |
Motor compression |Valve seat pitted |Grind, reset valve
poor | |
Motor compression |Valve guide worn |Replace bushing
poor | |
Motor compression |Valve stem warped |New valve
poor | |
Motor compression |Piston rings lined up |Distribute openings
poor | |
Motor compression |Cylinder wall scored |Oversize rings; rebore
poor | |
Universal joint |Loose sleeve connection |Tighten flange bolts
noise | |
Universal joint |Insufficient lubrication|Remove boot and pack
noise | |with grease
Universal joint slap|Worn bushings |Turn bushings end for
| |end
Universal joint slap|Worn trunion |New bushings
Differential noise |Dry |Fill with graphite
| |grease or 600 W
Differential click |Chipped gear |Replace
Differential knock |Broken out tooth |Replace
Differential growl |Ring gear mesh too deep |Back up trifle on
(steady) | |adjustment
Differential growl |Ring gear mesh too |Set up adjustment
(uneven) |loosely |
Differential growl |Axle shaft sprung |Retrue, replace
(uneven) | |
Differential growl |Loose bearing retainer |Tighten nuts
(uneven) | |
Brakes fail to |Rusted clevis joints |Lubricate with heavy
release | |grease
Brakes fail to |Broken coil spring |Replace
release | |
Brakes fail to |Stretched coil spring |Replace
release | |
Brake clatter |Loose adjustment |Adjust
Brake clatter |Worn lining |Reline the outer band
Brake clatter |Loose release spring |Adjust
Brake squeak |Dry lining |Four or five drops of
| |oil
Brake squeak |Burned lining |Replace
Brakes fail to grip |Lining worn down to |Replace
|rivet heads |
Brakes fail to grip |Overly lubricated |Wash with kerosene
Brakes fail to grip |Lining worn slick |Wash with kerosene and
| |roughen with file
Brakes fail to grip |Lining burned hard |Replace
Brakes fail to grip |Stretched rivets |Draw down
Brake rod rattle |Worn clevis pin |Replace
Brake rod rattle |Spread clevis yoke |Drive ends together
Brake rod rattle |Loose lock-nut behind |Tighten down
|clevis |
Brake rod rattle |Brake rods strike each |Tape one rod at contact
|other |point
Brake rod rattle |Dry connections |Lubricate with small
| |lump of grease
Torque rod rattle |Loose connections |Adjust
Torque rod rattle |Loose coil spring |Adjust
Emergency brake |Loose joint bearing |Replace bushing
lever rattle | |
Emergency brake |Worn plunger spring |Replace
lever rattle | |
Gear shift lever |Worn ball socket |Lubricate with heavy
rattle | |grease
Gear shift lever |Worn ball |Dent in socket with
rattle | |punch
Gear shift lever |Worn alignment spring |Replace
rattle |blades |
Gear shift lever |Worn bearing |Place thin washer at end
rattle | |of joint
Steering wheel play |Open mesh |Set up sector
Steering wheel play |Loose bearing |Turn down cone
Steering wheel play |Worn gear tooth |Take up on eccentric
| |bushing
Steering wheel play |Loose drag link sockets |Turn in end plug
Steering wheel |Dry |Pack with grease
stiffness | |
Radiator heats |Poor circulation |Flush radiator
Radiator heats |Jammed tubes |Remove jam and solder in
| |new piece tube
Radiator heats |Sediment in bottom tank |Flush out with soda
| |solution
Radiator heats |Stopped up overflow |Run wire through
Radiator freezes |Too much radiation |Cover bottom half of
| |radiator with cardboard
Radiator freezes |Jammed tubes |Cut out section; solder
| |in new piece
Radiator freezes |Sediment in bottom tank |Flush out with soda
| |solution
Vacuum tank spouts |Dirt on vacuum valve |Clean valve
gas |seat |
Vacuum tank |Dirt on vacuum valve |Clean valve
overflows |seat |
Vacuum tank fails |Suction pipe from |Clean pipe
|manifold stopped up |
Vacuum tank fails |Vacuum valve stuck |Clean valve
| |
Vacuum tank fails |Entrance screen stopped |Remove fuel line and
|up |clean screen
Vacuum tank fails |Loose connection at |Tighten joint
|manifold |
Vacuum tank fails |Plugged fuel line |Run wire through
| |
Carburetor wheeze |Choke valve out too far |Push in after starting
|on dash |
Carburetor wheeze |Choke valve wire too |Lengthen and adjust
|short |
Carburetor wheeze |Butterfly loose on air |Adjust and tighten
|valve pivot |
Carburetor chokes |Dirty valve |Grind needle valves
Carburetor chokes |Sediment in bowl |Clean out bowl
Carburetor chokes |Heavy mixture |Open air valve slightly
Carburetor chokes |Water in gas |Clean out bowl
Carburetor snaps |Thin mixture |Cut down air
Carburetor snaps |Water in gas |Strain gas through
| |chamois
Carburetor snaps |Dirt in fuel line |Run wire through
Carburetor snaps |Dirt under needle valve |Remove; clean seat
Carburetor overflows|Dirt on needle valve |Remove; clean seat
|seat |
Carburetor overflows|Cork float (water- |Dry in sun and shellac
|logged) |
Carburetor overflows|Metal float punctured |Punch hole opposite
| |leak, blow out, solder
| |both
Carburetor backfires|Worn intake valve |Replace bushing
|bushing |
Carburetor backfires|Defective spark plug |Replace
Carburetor backfires|Pitted valve seat |Reseat
Magneto roar |Armature shaft bearings |Two drops of light oil
|dry |in bearing well
Magneto click |Dry bearing |Two drops of light oil
| |in bearing well
Magneto fires uneven|Breaker points out of |Adjust points
|adjustment |
Magneto fires uneven|Open safety spark gap |Adjust gap to ¹⁄₁₆″
Magneto fires uneven|Condensor short |Take to service station
|circuited |
Magneto fires uneven|Distributor segments |Take to service station
|worn |
Magneto fires uneven|Distributor brush worn |Take to service station
Magneto fires uneven|Distributor insulation |Take to service station
|cracked |
Magneto fires uneven|Coil short circuited |Take to service station
Distributor arm |Worn center bushing |Replace bushing
wabbles | |
Distributor fails |Spring blade broken in |Replace blade
|head |
Distributor fails |Worn contact point in |Cut down insulation
|head |
Distributor fails |Oil on contact block |Clean with kerosene
|blade |
Distributor fails |Contact points welded |File smooth, adjust
Distributor fails |Loose on shaft |Reset and retime
Distributor fails |Coil shorted from |Dry out thoroughly
|dampness |
Distributor fails |Punctured condensor |Replace
Distributor fails |Secondary wire short |Replace or tape
|circuited |
Distributor fails |Secondary wire |Connect to proper
|disconnected in switch |terminal
Starting motor fails|Corroded terminals |Clean and grease
Starting motor fails|Brush loose |Tighten and adjust to
| |even contact
Starting motor fails|Terminal from battery |Clean and tape
|short circuited to frame|
Starting motor fails|Starting switch short |Cut off end of wire,
|circuited |make new connection
Starting motor fails|Bennidict spring broken |Replace
Starting motor fails|Battery discharged |Recharge battery
Generator fails to |Disconnected |Replace heavy wire
charge | |
Generator fails to |Short circuit in cut-out|Make new connection
charge |switch |
Generator fails to |Brush out of contact |Adjust contact
charge | |
Generator noise |Dry bearings |Lubricate with light oil
Battery discharges |Plate short circuited |Take to service station
too quickly | |
Battery discharges |Leaky cell |Take to service station
too quickly | |
Battery discharges |Weak solution |Take to service station
too quickly | |
Battery discharges |Deteriorated plates |Take to service station
too quickly | |
Battery discharges |Dry plates |Cover plates with
too quickly | |distilled water
Battery overcharges |Insufficient use of |Burn lights and use
|current |starter frequently
Battery heats |Overcharging |Burn lights and use
| |starter frequently
Horn fails |Wire short circuited |Replace or tape
Horn fails |Brush making poor |Adjust brush evenly
|contact |
Horn fails |Brush making heavy |Adjust brush lightly
|contact |
Horn fails |Drum too tightly |Adjust through funnel
|adjusted |
Squeaks |Body loose on frame |Tighten four retainer
| |bolts
Squeaks |Dry springs |Lubricate with graphite
| |grease
Squeaks |Fuel tank loose |Tighten bands
Squeaks |Radiator loose |Tighten studs
Squeaks |Drip pan loose |Compress coil springs
Squeaks |Fender irons loose |Tighten bolts
Squeaks |Upper steering shaft |Pack with heavy grease
|bearing dry |
Rattles |Loose spring alignment |Bush and tighten
|clamp |
Rattles |Spread rod clevis open |Draw up ends and grease
Rattles |Demountable rim lugs |Draw up or replace
|loose |
Rattles |Door hinge screws loose |Draw up
Rattles |Door lock worn |Bush slot
Lights jar out |Wires short circuited |Tape worn insulation
Lights jar out |Weak plunger spring in |Stretch spring
|contact plug |
Lights fail |Poor contact |Remove wire and tape
| |insulation
Lights fail |Poor contact |Remove plugs and adjust
| |firmly in sockets
Lights dim |Globes carboned |Replace
Lights burn with |Globe out of adjustment |Turn back into socket
black spot in center| |firmly
APPENDIX
I
FORD--MODEL-T
THE CAR, ITS OPERATION, AND CARE
Given in Questions and Answers--This Supplement also Covers the 1-Ton
Truck
_Q._ What should be done before starting the car?
_A._ Before trying to start the car fill the radiator (by removing
the cap at the top) with clean fresh water. If perfectly clean water
cannot be obtained, it is advisable to strain it through muslin or
other similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting in and
obstructing the small tubes of the radiator. The system will hold
approximately three gallons of water. It is important that the car
should not be run under its own power unless the water circulating
system has been filled. Pour in the water until you are sure that both
radiator and cylinder water jackets are full. The water will run out
of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water system has
been properly filled. During the first few days that a new car is being
driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see
that it is kept well filled. The water supply should be replenished as
often as it is found necessary to do so. Soft rain water, when it is to
be had in a clean state, is superior to hard water, which may contain
alkalies and other salts which tend to deposit sediment and clog the
radiator.
_Q._ What about gasoline?
_A._ The ten gallon gasoline tank should be filled nearly full and
the supply should never be allowed to get low. Strain the gas through
chamois skin to prevent water and other foreign matter from getting
into the tank. Dirt or water in the gasoline is sure to cause trouble.
When filling the tank be sure that there are no naked flames within
several feet, as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels rapidly.
Always be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been
spilled, as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated with
the highly explosive vapor. The small vent hole in the gasoline tank
cap should not be allowed to get plugged up, as this would prevent
proper flow of gasoline to the carburetor. The gasoline tank may be
drained by opening the pet cock in the sediment bulb at the bottom of
the tank.
_Q._ How about the oiling system?
_A._ Upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium light
high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case through the
breather pipe at the front of the engine (a metal cap covers it). Down
under the car in the flywheel casing (the reservoir which holds the
oil) you will find two pet cocks. Pour oil in slowly until it runs out
of the upper cock. Leave the cock open until it stops running, then
close it. After the engine has become thoroughly warmed up, the best
results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level midway between
the two cocks, but under no circumstances should it be allowed to get
below the lower cock. All other parts of the car are properly oiled
when it leaves the factory. However, it will be well to see that all
grease cups are filled and that oil is supplied to the necessary parts.
(See chapter on Lubrication.)
_Q._ How are spark and throttle levers used?
_A._ Under the steering wheel are two small levers. The right hand
(throttle) lever controls the amount of mixture (gasoline and air)
which goes into the engine. When the engine is in operation, the
farther the lever is moved downward toward the driver (referred to as
“opening the throttle”) the faster the engine runs and the greater the
power furnished. The left hand lever controls the spark which ignites
the gas in the cylinders of the engine. The advancing of this lever
“advances the spark,” and it should be moved down notch by notch until
the motor seems to reach its maximum speed. If the lever is advanced
beyond this point a dull knock will be heard in the engine. (See
chapter on Ignition.)
_Q._ Where should these levers be when the engine is ready to crank?
_A._ The spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth
notch of the quadrant (the notched half circle on which the levers
operate). The throttle should usually be opened five or six notches.
A little experience will soon teach you where these levers should be
placed for proper starting. Care should be taken not to advance the
spark lever too far as the engine may “back-kick.”
_Q._ What else is necessary before cranking the engine?
_A._ First, see that the hand lever that comes up through the floor of
the car at the left of the driver, is pulled back as far as it will go.
The lever in this position holds the clutch in neutral and engages the
hub brake, thus preventing the car from moving forward when the engine
is started. Second, after inserting the switch key in the switch on
the coil box, throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will go,
to the point marked “magneto.” This switch connects the magneto to the
engine. The engine cannot be started until it is on; and the throwing
off of the switch stops the engine. The next step is to crank the
engine.
_Q._ How is the engine cranked?
_A._ By the lifting of the starting crank at the front of the car.
Take hold of the handle and push it toward the car until you feel the
crank ratchets engage, then lift upward with a quick swing. With a
little experience this operation will become an easy matter. Do not
as a usual thing crank downward against the compression, for then an
early explosion may drive the handle vigorously backward. This does not
mean, however, that it is advisable, when the car is hard to start,
to occasionally “spin” the engine with the starting handle but be
sure that the spark is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine
against compression, otherwise a sudden back-fire may injure the arm
of the operator. When the engine is cool it is advisable to prime the
carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower left-hand side of
the radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns with
the starting handle.
_Q._ How is the engine best started in cold weather?
_A._ As gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather, it is
naturally more difficult to start the motor under such conditions. The
usual method of starting the engine when cold is to turn the carburetor
dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left in order to allow a richer
mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the cylinders. Then hold out the
priming rod which projects through the radiator while you turn the
crank from six to eight quarter turns in quick succession. Another
method of starting a cold troublesome motor is as follows: Before
you throw on the magneto switch, (1) close throttle lever. (2) Hold
out the priming rod while you crank several quick turns, then let go
of the priming rod, being careful that it goes back all the way. (3)
Place spark lever in about the third notch and advance throttle lever
several notches. (4) Throw on switch being sure to get it on the side
marked “magneto.” (5) Give crank one or two turns and the motor should
start. After starting the motor it is advisable to advance the spark
eight or ten notches on the quadrant and let the motor run until it is
thoroughly warmed up.
If you start out with a cold motor you will not have much power and
are liable to “stall.” The advantage of turning on the switch last, or
after priming, is that when you throw on the switch and give the crank
one-quarter turn you have plenty of gas in the cylinders to keep the
motor running, thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting
and stopping. After motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment back
one-quarter turn.
_Note._ Many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine by
walking around in front of the car and pulling out on the priming rod
which has the effect of shutting off the air suction and filling the
cylinders full of a very rich gasoline vapor. This should not be done
unless the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off.
If the motor is stopped in this way and then started when hot, starting
is apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the
carburetor.
_Q._ How do the foot pedals operate?
_A._ The first one toward the left operates the clutch, and by it the
car is started and its operations largely controlled. When pressed
forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed gear. When halfway
forward the gears are in neutral (i. e., disconnected from the driving
mechanism of the rear wheels), and, with the hand lever thrown forward
the releasing of the pedal engages the high-speed clutch. The right
hand pedal operates the transmission brake.
_Q._ What function does the hand lever perform?
_A._ Its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position. If
it were not for this lever the driver would have to stop the engine
whenever he left the driver’s seat. He would also be unable to crank
the engine without the car starting forward with the first explosion.
When pulled back as far as it will go, the hand lever acts as an
emergency lever on the rear wheels, by expanding the brake shoes in the
rear wheel drums. Therefore the hand lever should be back as far as it
will go when cranking the engine or when the car is at rest. It should
be only in a vertical position, and not far enough backward to act as a
brake on the rear wheels when the car is to be reversed. When the car
is operating in high or low speed the hand lever should be all the way
forward.
_Q._ How is the car started?
_A._ Slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. Place
the foot on the clutch pedal, and thereby hold the gears in a neutral
position while throwing the hand lever forward. Then to start the
car in motion, press the pedal forward into low speed and when under
sufficient headway (20 to 30 feet), allow the pedal to drop back
slowly into high speed, at the same time partially closing the throttle
which will allow the engine to pick up its load easily. With a little
practice the change of speeds will be easily accomplished, and without
any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the machine.
_Q._ How is the car stopped?
_A._ Partially close the throttle. Release the high speed by pressing
the clutch pedal forward into neutral. Apply the foot brake slowly
but firmly until the car comes to a dead stop. Do not remove the foot
from the clutch pedal without first pulling the hand lever back to
neutral position, or the engine will stall. To stop the motor, open
the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the
switch. The engine will then stop with the cylinders full of gas, which
will naturally facilitate starting.
Endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the car
that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes practically
automatic, the natural thing to do in case of emergency.
_Q._ How is the car reversed?
_A._ It must be brought to a dead stop. With the engine running,
disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press the reverse pedal
forward with the left foot, the right foot being free to use on the
brake pedal if needed. Do not bring the hand lever back too far or you
will set the brakes on the rear wheels. Experienced drivers ordinarily
reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the
left foot, and operating the reverse pedal with the right.
_Q._ How is the spark controlled?
_A._ By the left hand lever under the steering wheel. Good operators
drive with the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will
permit. But if the spark is advanced too far a dull knock will be
heard in the motor, due to the fact that the explosion occurs before
the piston in the engine has completed its compression stroke. The
best results are obtained when the spark occurs just at the time that
piston reaches its highest point of travel, the gas being then at its
highest point of compression. The spark should only be retarded when
the engine slows down on a heavy road or steep grade, but care should
be exercised not to retard the spark too far, for when the spark is
“late” instead of getting a powerful explosion, a slow burning of gas
with excessive heat will result. Learn to operate the spark as the
occasion demands. The greatest economy in gasoline consumption is
obtained by driving with the spark advanced sufficiently to obtain the
maximum speed.
_Q._ How is speed of car controlled?
_A._ The different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained
by opening or closing the throttle. Practically all the running speeds
needed for ordinary travel are obtained on high gear, and it is seldom
necessary to use the low gear except to give the car momentum in
starting. The speed of the car may be temporarily slackened in driving
through crowded traffic, turning corners, etc., by “slipping the
clutch,” i. e., pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral.
_Q._ Is it advisable for owners to make their own adjustments?
_A._ The Ford is the simplest of all cars. Most of the ordinary
adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for himself. But we
must strongly recommend that when it becomes necessary to employ the
services of a mechanic, the car be taken to a Ford mechanic--one of
our own representatives who thoroughly understands the car--and who
will have no motive for running up useless repair bills. The entire
Ford organization is interested in keeping every individual Ford car in
constant operation, at the lowest possible cost. We have known of much
damage done to many cars by unskilled repair men.
_Q._ What attention does the car need?
_A._ Remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during
the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have become
thoroughly “worked in.” The car which is driven slowly and carefully
when new usually gives the most satisfactory service in the end. Never
start out with your car until you are sure that it has plenty of oil
and water. Frequently inspect the running gear. See that no unnecessary
play exists in either front or rear wheels, and that all bolts and nuts
are tight. Make a practice of taking care of every repair or adjustment
as soon as its necessity is discovered. This attention requires but
little time and may avoid delay or possible accident on the road. We
aim to deliver the car in proper mechanical adjustment. Afterwards it
is plainly the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition.
II
THE FORD ENGINE
_Q_. What is the principle of the gasoline driven engine?
_A_. Gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly explosive.
An explosion is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous combustion
of confined gases. In the gasoline engine the mixture is drawn into
the cylinder, where it is compressed by an advancing piston and then
exploded by an electric spark, which sends the piston violently
downward, and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary motion to the
crank shaft. (See cut No. 147.)
_Q_. What are functions of the pistons?
_A_. On the downward stroke the suction of the piston draws the fresh
gas from the carburetor, through the inlet pipe and valve, into the
cylinder. The upward movement of the piston compresses the gas into a
very small space, between the top of the piston and the depression in
the cylinder head, known as the “combustion chamber.” (The compressed
gases inert a pressure of approximately 60 pounds to the square inch.)
At this point the electric spark, generated by the magneto, explodes
the gas-driving piston downward, thus producing the power which turns
the crank shaft. On the next stroke upward the piston drives the
exploded gas out through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler. The
accompanying cut shows clearly the relative positions of the pistons
and valves during the different strokes.
_Q_. How is the connecting rod removed?
_A_. It is a vanadium steel rod connecting piston and crank shaft.
Should the babbitt bearing become worn, or burned out through lack of
oil, a knocking in the engine will result, in which case the entire
connecting rod should be replaced. To make this replacement, (1) drain
oil from crank case; (2) take off cylinder head; (3) remove detachable
plate on bottom of crank case; (4) disconnect connecting rod from crank
shaft; (5) take piston and rod out through top of cylinder.
[Illustration:
Exhaust Valve
Spark Plug
Exhaust and Intake
Pipe Clamp
Cylinder
Head Bolt
Top Water Connection
Intake Valve
Water Chamber
Comp. Chamber
Reverse Pedal
Piston Ring
Cylinder
Head
Fan
Crank Handle
Clutch Pedal
Piston
Exhaust
Manifold
Grease Cup
Brake Pedal
Magneto Contact
Fan Bracket
Transmission Cover
Magneto
Contact Point
Intake Pipe
Fan Bracket Bolt
Bracket Pipe
Triple Gear
Fan Belt
Adjusting Nut
Large Time Gear
Reverse Band
Commutator
Slow Speed Band
Com. Wire Terminal
Brake Band
Starting Pin
Driving Plate
Drive Pulley
Starting Crank
Starting Crank Spring
Cam Shaft
Front Bearing
Starting Crank Sleeve
Starting Crank Ratchet
Clutch Spring
Push Rod
Small Time Gear
Clutch Release Fork
Cam Shaft Rear Bearing
Crank Case Oil Tube
Crank Shaft Front Bearing
Clutch Release Ring
Magneto
Crank Shaft Rear Bearing
Crank Shaft Center Bearing
Valve Spring
Clutch Shift
Magneto Support
Magneto Coil Support
Crank Shaft
Cam Shaft
Clutch Finger
Magneto Clamp
Magneto Coil
Connecting Rod
Oil Level
Flywheel
Oil Cocks
Oil Drain Plug
Fig. 147. Ford Motor--Sectional View]
_Q._ What is the valve arrangement?
_A._ One intake and one exhaust valve are located in each cylinder. The
former admits the fresh gas drawn from the carburetor through the inlet
pipe, the latter permits the exploded gas to be driven out through the
exhaust pipe. The valves are alternately opened and closed (see Fig.
148) by the cams on the cam shaft striking against push rods which in
turn lift the valves from their seats.
[Illustration:
Intake Stroke
Exhaust Valve Closed
Intake Valve Open
Exhaust Valve Closed
Intake Valve Closed
Explosion Stroke
Compression Stroke
Intake Valve Closed
Exhaust Valve Closed
Intake Valve Closed
Exhaust Valve Open
Exhaust Stroke
Push Rod
Large Time Gear
Comm. Brush Assb.
Zero Marks on Time Gear
Small Time Gear
Crank Shaft
Cam Shaft
Exhaust Cam
Connecting Rod
Intake Cam
Fig. 148. Ford Motor--Valve and Cylinder Assembly]
_Q._ What about valve timing?
_A._ In timing the engine the points of opening and closing of the
valves are, of course, what should be considered. As the valves are
properly timed at the factory when the engine is built, the necessity
for retiming would occur only when such parts as the cam shaft, time
gears, or valves were removed in overhauling the engine. In fitting
the large time gear to the cam shaft it is important to see that the
first cam points in a direction opposite to the zero mark (see Fig.
148). The time gears must also mesh so that the tooth marked (0) on
the small time gear will come between the two teeth on the large gear
at the zero point. The time gears now being properly set, the exhaust
valve on No. 1 cylinder is open and the intake valve closed, the other
valves being in the position indicated in cut No. 148. The opening and
closing of the valves are as follows: The exhaust valve opens when the
piston reaches ⁵⁄₁₆″ of bottom center, the distance from the top of the
piston head to the top of the cylinder casting measuring 3³⁄₈″. The
exhaust valve will close on top center, the piston being ⁵⁄₁₆″ above
the cylinder casting. The intake valve opens ¹⁄₁₆″ after the top center
and closes ⁹⁄₁₆″ after bottom center, the distance from the top of the
piston to the top of the cylinder casting measuring 3¹⁄₈″ The clearance
between the push rod and the valve stem should never be greater than
¹⁄₃₂″ nor less than ¹⁄₆₄″. The correct clearance is naturally halfway
between these two measurements. The gap should be measured when the
push rod is on the heel of the cam.
_Q._ What about the care of the valves?
_A._ They seldom get out of order, but they do get dirty as a result
of carbon collecting on the valve seats. These carbon deposits, by
preventing proper closing of the valves, permit the gases under
compression to escape, resulting in loss of power and uneven running
of the motor. If, when turning the engine over slowly, there is lack
of resistance in one or more cylinders, it is probable that the valves
need regrinding. As the “life” of the engine depends largely upon the
proper seating of the valves, it is necessary that they be ground
occasionally.
_Q._ How are valves removed for grinding?
_A._ (1) Draining radiator; (2) remove cylinder head; (3) remove the
two valve covers on the right side of the engine; (4) raise the valve
spring with lifting tool and pull out the little pin under the valve
seat. The valve may then be lifted out by the head, preparatory to
grinding.
_Q._ How are valves ground?
_A._ For this work use a good grinding paste of ground glass and oil
procurable from auto supply houses. A convenient way is to put a small
amount in a suitable dish, adding a spoonful or two of kerosene and a
few drops of lubricating oil to make a thin paste. Place the mixture
sparingly on the bevel face of the valve. Put the valve in position on
the valve seat, and rotate it back and forth (about a quarter turn) a
few times with a Ford grinding tool. Then lift slightly from the seat,
change the position and continue the rotation, and keep on repeating
this operation until the bearing surface is bright and smooth. The
valve should not be turned through a complete rotation, as this is
apt to cause scratches running around the entire circumference of the
valve and seat. When the grinding is completed the valve should be
removed from the cylinder, thoroughly washed with kerosene, and the
valve seat wiped out thoroughly. Extreme care should be taken that no
abrasive substance gets into the cylinders or valve guides. This can be
avoided if the grinding paste is applied sparingly on the bevel face
of the valve. If the valve seat is worn badly or smeared, it is best
to have it reseated with a valve seating tool. This operation requires
considerable skill, and perhaps had better be done by an expert
mechanic. Care should be exercised against making too deep a cut,
necessitating the retiming of the valve.
_Q._ What should be done when the valves and push rods are worn?
_A._ When the valves and push rods become worn so as to leave too much
play between them, thus reducing the lift of the valves and diminishing
the power of the motor, it is best to replace the push rods with new
ones. The clearance between the push rod and the valve stem should
never be greater than ¹⁄₃₂″ nor less than ¹⁄₆₄″. If the clearance is
greater, the valve will open late and close early, resulting in uneven
running of the motor. If the clearance is less than ¹⁄₆₄″ there is
danger of the valve remaining partially open all the time. If replacing
the push rod does not give the proper clearance, the valve should also
be replaced. We do not recommend drawing out the valve stem, as the
operation required, and the price of a new part does not warrant the
time and expense necessary to properly do the work.
_Q._ What about valve springs?
_A._ When the valves fail to seat themselves properly, there is a
possibility that the springs may be weak or broken. A weak inlet spring
would probably not affect the running of the engine, but weakness
in the exhaust valve spring causes a very uneven action, which is
difficult to locate. The symptoms are a lag in the engine due to the
exhaust valve not closing instantaneously, and as a result a certain
per cent. of the charge under compression escapes, greatly diminishing
the force of the explosion. Weakness in a valve spring can usually be
detected by the following method: Remove the plate which encloses them
at the side of the cylinder and insert a screw driver between the coils
of the spring while the engine is running. If the extra tension thus
produced causes the engine to pick up speed, the spring is obviously
weak and should be replaced by a new one.
_Q._ What causes “knocking” in the engine?
_A._ There are several causes which may be enumerated as follows:
(1) carbon knock, which is by far the most common, resulting from
carbonizing of cylinders; (2) knock caused by a too advanced spark;
(3) connecting rod knock; (4) crank shaft main bearing knock; (5)
knock due to loose fitting piston or broken ring; (6) knock caused by
piston striking the cylinder head gasket. When the engine knocks from
any cause whatsoever, the matter should be promptly investigated by an
experienced mechanic and the difficulty corrected.
_Q._ How may the different knocks be distinguished?
_A._ (1) The carbon knock is a clear hollow sound most noticeable in
climbing sharp grades, particularly when the engine is heated. It is
also indicated by a sharp rap immediately on advancing the throttle.
(2) Too advanced spark will be indicated by a dull knock in the motor.
(3) The connecting rod knock sound is like the distant tapping of steel
with a small hammer, and is readily distinguished when the car is
allowed to run idly down grade or upon speeding the car to twenty-five
miles an hour, then suddenly closing the throttle, the tapping will
be very distinct. (4) The crank shaft main bearing knock can be
distinguished as a dull thud when the car is going up hill. (5) The
loose piston knock is heard only upon suddenly opening the throttle,
when the sound produced might be likened to a rattle. The remedies for
these knocks are treated under their proper divisions.
_Q._ How is carbon removed from the combustion chamber?
_A._ First, drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the bottom
of the radiator; then disconnect the wires at the top of the motor and
also the radiator connection attached to the radiator. Remove the 15
cap screws which hold the cylinder head in place. Take off the cylinder
head and, with a putty knife or screw driver, scrape from the cylinder
and piston heads the carbonized matter, being careful to prevent the
specks of carbon from getting into the cylinders or bolt holes. In
replacing the cylinder head gasket turn the motor over so that No. 1
and No. 4 pistons are at top center; place the gasket in position over
the pistons and then put the cylinder head in place. Be sure and draw
the cylinder head bolts down evenly (i. e., give each bolt a few turns
at a time). Do not tighten them on one end before drawing them up at
the other.
_Q._ How are spark plugs cleaned?
_A._ After removing the plug from the engine the points may be
cleaned with an old tooth brush dipped in gasoline. However, to do
the work thoroughly, the plug should be taken apart by securing the
large hexagon steel shell in a vise and loosening the pack nut which
holds the porcelain in place. The carbon deposits can then be easily
removed from the porcelain and shell with a small knife. Care should
be exercised not to scrape off the glazed surface of the porcelain,
otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly. The porcelain and other
parts should be finally washed in gasoline and wiped dry with a cloth.
In assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack
nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain, and the
distance between the sparking points should be ¹⁄₃₂″, about the
thickness of a smooth dime. Dirty plugs usually result from an excess
of oil being carried in the crank case, or from using oil of poor
quality.
_Q._ How is the power plant removed from the car?
_A._ (1) Drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the
radiator hose. (2) Disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it
to the dash. (3) Take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to
the frame and take radiator off. (4) Disconnect the dash at the two
supporting brackets which rest on the frame. (5) Loosen the steering
post bracket, fastened to the frame, when the dash and steering
gear may be removed as one assembly, the wires first having been
disconnected. (6) Take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in
the socket underneath the crank case. (7) Remove the four bolts at the
universal joint. (8) Remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and
turn off gasoline; disconnect feed pipe from carburetor. (9) Disconnect
exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by uncovering large brass pack nut.
(10) Take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front
frame. (11) Remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the
frame at the side. Then pass a rope through the opening between the
two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot. Through the rope pass a
“2 by 4,” or stout iron pipe about ten feet long, and let a man hold
each end; let a third man take hold of the starting crank handle, when
the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for
adjustment.
_Q._ How are the connecting rod bearings adjusted?
_A._ Connecting rod bearings may be adjusted, without taking out the
engine, by the following method: (1) Drain off the oil; (2) Remove
plate on bottom of crank case, exposing connecting rods; (3) Take off
the first connecting rod cap, and drawfile the ends a very little
at a time; (4) Replace cap, being careful to see that punch marks
correspond, and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly; (5) Test
tightness of bearing by turning engine over with the starting handle.
Experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly
fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer; (6) then
loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same
manner; (7) after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested,
then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished.
Remember that there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight,
and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly, unless
precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the start. It is a good
plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let
the motor run slowly for about two hours (keeping it well supplied with
water and oil) before taking it out on the road. Whenever possible
these bearings should be fitted by an expert Ford mechanic.
Worn connecting rods may be returned, prepaid, to the nearest agent
or branch house for exchange at a price of 75 cents each to cover
the cost of rebabbitting. It is not advisable for any owner or
repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting rods or main
bearings, for without a special jig in which to form the bearings,
satisfactory results will not be obtained. The constant tapping of
a loose connecting rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce
crystallization of the steel, resulting in broken crank shaft and
possibly other parts of the engine damaged.
_Q._ How are the crank shaft main bearings adjusted?
_A._ Should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves
become worn (evidenced by a pounding in the motor) and need replacing
or adjustment, proceed as follows: (1) After the engine has been taken
out of the car, remove crank case, transmission cover, cylinder head,
pistons, connecting rods, transmission and magnetic coils. Take off
the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline.
Apply Persian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces,
which will enable you, in fitting the caps, to determine whether a
perfect bearing surface is obtained.
(2) Place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as
possible without stripping the bolt threads. When the bearing has been
properly fitted, the crank will permit moving with one hand. If the
crank shaft cannot be turned with one hand, the contact between the
bearing surface is evidently too close, and the cap requires ohming
up, one or two brass lines usually being sufficient. In case the crank
shaft moves too easily with one hand, the shims should be removed and
the steel surface of the cap filed off, permitting it to set closer.
(3) After removing the cap, observe whether the blue or red “spottings”
indicate a full bearing the length of the cap. If “spottings” do not
show a true bearing, the babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted
until the proper results are obtained.
(4) Lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in
the same manner. Repeat the operation with the front bearing, with the
other two bearings laid aside.
(5) When the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained, clean
the babbitt surface carefully and place a little lubricating oil on the
bearings, also on the crank shaft; then draw the caps up as closely
as possible, the necessary shims, of course, being in place. Do not
be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight, as the shim under the
cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces will prevent the metal
being drawn into the close contact. If oil is not put on the bearing
surfaces, the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is started up
before the oil in the crank case can get into the bearing. In replacing
the crank case and transmission cover on the motor, it is advisable to
use a new set of felt gaskets to prevent oil leaks.
III
THE FORD COOLING SYSTEM
_Q._ How is the engine cooled?
_A._ The heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine
would soon overheat and ruin the engine were it not cooled by some
artificial means. The Ford engine is cooled by the circulation of
water in jackets around the cylinders. The heat is extracted from the
water by its passage through the thin metal tubing of the radiator, to
which are attached scientifically worked out fins, which assist in the
rapid radiation of the heat. The fan, just back of the radiator, sucks
the air around the tubing through which the air is also driven by the
forward movement of the car. The belt should be inspected frequently
and tightened by means of the adjusting screw in the fan bracket when
necessary. It should not be too tight, however. Take up the slack till
the fan starts to bind when turned by hand.
_Q._ How does the water circulate?
_A._ The cooling apparatus of the Ford car is known as the
thermo-syphon system. It acts on the principle that hot water seeks
a higher level than cold water. Consequently when the water reaches
a certain heat, approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit, circulation
commences and the water flows from the lower radiator outlet pipe up
through the water jackets, into the upper radiator water tank, and down
through the tubes to the lower tank, to repeat the process.
_Q._ What are the causes of overheating?
_A._ (1) Carbonized cylinders; (2) too much driving on low speed; (3)
spark retarded too far; (4) poor ignition; (5) not enough or poor grade
oil; (6) racing motor; (7) clogged muffler; (8) improper carburetor
adjustment; (9) fan not working properly on account of broken or
slipping belt; (10) improper circulation of water due to clogged or
jammed radiator tubes, leaky connections or low water.
_Q._ What should be done when the radiator overheats?
_A._ Keep the radiator full. Do not get alarmed if it boils
occasionally, especially in driving through mud and deep sand or up
long hills in extremely warm weather. Remember that the engine develops
the greatest efficiency when the water is heated nearly to the boiling
point. But if there is persistent overheating when the motor is working
under ordinary conditions, find the cause of the trouble and remedy
it. The chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving or
carbonized cylinders. Perhaps twisting the fan blades at a greater
angle to produce more suction may bring desired results. By reference
to the proper division of this book each of the causes which contribute
to an overheated radiator is treated and remedies suggested. No trouble
can result from the filling of an overheated radiator with cold water,
providing the water system is not entirely empty, in which case the
motor should be allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced.
_Q._ How about cleaning the radiator?
_A._ The entire circulation system should be flushed out occasionally.
To do this properly, the radiator inlet and outlet hose should be
disconnected, and the radiator flushed out by allowing the water to
enter the filler neck at ordinary pressure, from whence it will flow
down through the tubes and out at the drain cock and hose. The water
jackets can be flushed out in the same manner. Simply allow the water
to enter into the cylinder head connections and to flow through the
water jackets and out at the side inlet connection.
_Q._ Will the radiator freeze in winter?
_A._ Yes; unless an anti-freezing solution is used in the circulating
system you are bound to experience trouble. As the circulation does
not commence until the water becomes heated, it is apt to freeze at
low temperature before it commences to circulate. In case any of the
radiator tubes happen to be plugged or jammed they are bound to freeze
and burst open if the driver undertakes to get along without using a
non-freezing solution. Wood or denatured alcohol can be used to good
advantage. The following table gives the freezing points of solutions
containing different percentages of alcohol: 20% solution freezes at
15 degrees above zero. 30% solution freezes at 8 degrees below zero.
50% solution freezes at 34 degrees below zero. A solution composed of
60% water, 10% glycerine and 30% alcohol is commonly used, its freezing
point being about 8 degrees below zero. On account of evaporation
fresh alcohol must be added frequently in order to maintain the proper
solution.
_Q._ How are leaks and jams in the radiator repaired?
_A._ A small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying brown soap or
white lead, but the repair should be made permanent with solder as soon
as possible. A jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair. While the
stopping of one tube does not seriously interfere with the circulation,
it is bound to cause trouble sooner or later, and the tube will freeze
in cold weather. Cut the tube an inch above and below the jam and
insert a new piece, soldering the connections. If the entire radiator
is badly jammed or broken it would probably be advisable to install a
new one.
IV
THE GASOLINE SYSTEM
_Q._ How does the carburetor work?
_A._ The carburetor is of the automatic float feed type, having but
one adjustment, the gasoline needle valve. The cross-section diagram
of carburetor (Fig. 149) shows how the gasoline enters the carburetor,
is vaporized by a current of air and passes through the inlet pipe to
the engine in the form of an explosive mixture. The gasoline, entering
the bowl of the carburetor, gradually raises the float to a point
where the inlet needle is forced upwards into its seat, thus cutting
off the flow of gasoline. As the gasoline in the bowl recedes, the
float lowers, allowing the needle to drop from its seat and the flow
of gasoline is resumed. It is plain to see that a constant level of
gasoline is maintained in the carburetor by the automatic action of
float and needle. The quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture is
governed by the needle valve (_see_ following page). The volume of gas
mixture entering the inlet pipe is controlled by opening and closing
the throttle, according to the speed desired by the driver.
[Illustration:
Gasoline Tank
Inlet Pipe
Needle Valve
Needle Valve
Lock Screw
Air Gate Lever
Throttle Lever
Clamp Screw
Screen
(Gasoline Strainer)
Air Current
Throttle
Stop Screw
Air Intake Gate
Throttle Gate
Stop Cock
Cork Float
Gasoline Inlet Needle
Sediment Bulb
Feed Pipe
Carburetor
Drain Cock
Sediment Bulb
Drain Cock
Fig. 149. Ford Fuel System]
_Q._ Why is carburetor adjustment placed on dash?
_A._ For the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor.
After the new car has become thoroughly worked in, the driver should
observe the angle of the carburetor adjustment rod at which the
engine runs most satisfactorily. In cold weather it will probably be
found necessary to turn the dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the
left, particularly in starting a cold engine. As gasoline vaporizes
readily in warm weather, the driver will find it economical to reduce
the quantity of gasoline in the mixture by turning the carburetor
adjustment to the right as far as possible without reducing the speed.
This is particularly true when taking long drives where conditions
permit a fair rate of speed to be maintained, and accounts for the
excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers.
_Q._ What is meant by a “lean” and a “rich” mixture?
_A._ A lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline. A rich
mixture has too much gasoline and not enough air. A rich mixture will
not only quickly cover the cylinders, pistons and valves with soot,
but will tend to overheat the cylinders, and is likewise wasteful of
the fuel. It will often choke the engine and cause misfiring at slow
speeds, although at high speeds the engine will run perfectly. The
mixture should be kept as lean as possible without the sacrifice of
any of the power of the motor. A lean mixture will often result in
backfiring through the carburetor, for the reason that the gas burns
slowly in the cylinder, and is still burning when the inlet valve opens
again, which causes the gas in the intake to ignite. A rich mixture is
shown by heavy, black exhaust smoke with a disagreeable smell. Proper
mixture will cause very little smoke or odor.
_Q._ How is the carburetor adjusted?
_A._ The usual method of regulating the carburetor is to start the
motor, advancing the throttle lever to about the sixth notch, with the
spark retarded to about the fourth notch. The flow of gasoline should
now be cut off by screwing the needle valve down to the right until
the engine begins to misfire. Then gradually increase the gasoline
feed by opening the needle valve until the motor picks up and reaches
its highest speed and no trace of black smoke comes from the exhaust.
Whenever it is necessary to turn the adjusting needle down more than a
quarter turn below its normal position, the lock nut on the top of the
carburetor at the point through which the needle passes should first
be loosened, as otherwise it is impossible to tell when the needle is
turned down in its seat too far. Turning the needle down too tightly
will result in its becoming grooved and the seat enlarged. When those
parts are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of the
carburetor. Having determined the point where the motor runs at its
maximum speed, the needle valve lock nut should be tightened to prevent
the adjustment being disturbed. For average running a lean mixture will
give better results than a rich one.
_Q._ Why does water clog the carburetor?
_A._ The presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank, even in
small amounts, will prevent easy starting and the motor will misfire
and stop. As water is heavier than gasoline it settles to the bottom of
the tank and into the sediment bulb along with other foreign matters.
As it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline absolutely free from
impurities, especially water, it is advisable to frequently drain the
sediment bulb under the gasoline tank. During cold weather the water
which accumulates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze and prevent
the flow of gas through the pipe leading to the carburetor. Should
anything of this kind happen it is possible to open the gasoline line
by wrapping a cloth around the sediment bulb and keeping it saturated
with hot water for a short time. Then the water should be drained off.
In event of the water getting down into the carburetor and freezing,
the same treatment may be applied.
_Q._ What makes the carburetor leak?
_A._ The flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed
pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle raising and
lowering in its seat. Should any particle of dirt become lodged in
the seat, which prevents the needle from closing, the gasoline will
overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the ground.
_Q._ What should be done when there is dirt in the carburetor?
_A._ The spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening,
a minute particle of dirt or other foreign matter will clog up the
orifice. The result is that the motor will begin to misfire and slow
down as soon as it has attained any considerable speed. This is
accounted for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction
will draw the particles of dust, etc., into the nozzle. By opening the
valve needle half a turn and giving the throttle lever two or three
quick pulls the dirt or sediment will often be drawn through, when
the needle may be turned back to its original place. If this does not
accomplish the purpose, the carburetor should be drained.
_Q._ If the engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded, what
is to be done?
_A._ If the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded, unscrew
the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine idles
at suitable speed. If the motor chokes or stops when throttle is fully
retarded, the adjusting screw should be screwed until it strikes
the boss, preventing the throttle from closing too far. When proper
adjustment has been made, tighten lock screw so that adjustment will
not be disturbed.
_Q._ What is the purpose of the hot air pipe?
_A._ It takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts
it to the carburetor where the heat facilitates the vaporizing of
the gasoline. It is usually advisable to remove this pipe in the hot
season, but it is an absolutely necessary feature during cold weather.
_Q._ What is the purpose of the cork float?
_A._ It automatically controls the flow of gasoline into the
carburetor. If it floats too low, starting will be difficult; if too
high, the carburetor will flood and leak. A cork float which has become
fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a new one or thoroughly
dried and then given a couple of coats of shellac varnish to make it
waterproof.
_Q._ Should priming rod be used in cranking when motor is warm?
_A._ No. The carburetor does not ordinarily require priming when the
motor is warm, and cranking with the rod pulled out is apt to “flood”
the engine with an over rich mixture of gas, which does not readily
explode. This naturally causes difficulty in starting. If you should
accidentally flood the engine, turn the carburetor adjusting needle
down (to the right) until it seats; then turn the engine over a few
times with the starting crank in order to exhaust the rich gas. As soon
as the motor starts, turn back the needle to the left and readjust the
carburetor.
V
THE FORD IGNITION SYSTEM
_Q._ What is the purpose of the ignition system?
_A._ It furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in the
combustion chamber, thus producing the power which runs the engine. It
is important that the charge be correctly ignited at the proper time,
in order to obtain satisfactory results in running the car. In the
Ford car the ignition system is as simple as it is possible for human
invention to make it.
_Q._ How does the magneto generate the current?
_A._ In revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor, the
magnets on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools create an
alternating low tension electric current in coils of wire which are
wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of the magneto, and
is carried from these coils to the magneto connection (wire) leading to
the coil box on the dash.
_Q._ Should the coil vibrator adjustment be disturbed?
_A._ The present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves
the factory and this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to
install new points or to reduce the gap between the points which may
have increased from wear. When adjustments are necessary they should,
whenever possible, be made by one of the Ford service stations who
have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and will gladly
furnish expert service. If the points are pitted they should be filed
flat with a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb nut turned
down so that with the spring held down the gap between the points will
be a trifle less than ¹⁄₃₂ of an inch. Then set the lock nut so that
the adjustment cannot be disturbed. Do not bend or hammer on the
vibrators, as this would affect the operation of the cushion spring of
the vibrator bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
_Q._ How is a weak unit detected?
_A._ With the vibrators properly adjusted, if any particular cylinder
fails or seems to develop only a weak action, change the position of
the unit to determine if the fault is actually in the unit. The first
symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of the vibrator with no
spark at the plug. Remember that a loose wire connection, faulty spark
plug, or worn commutator may cause irregularity in the running of the
motor. These are points to be considered before laying the blame on the
coil.
_Q._ How may short circuit in commutator wiring be detected?
_A._ Should the insulation of the primary wires (running from coil
to commutator) become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is
exposed, the current will leak out (i. e., short circuit) whenever
contact with the engine pan or other metal parts is made. A steady
buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a “short” in the wiring.
When driving the car the engine will suddenly lag and pound on account
of the premature explosion. Be careful not to crank the engine downward
against compression when the car is in this condition, as the “short”
is apt to cause a vigorous kick back.
_Q._ Does coil adjustment affect starting?
_A._ Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current
is required to make and break the contact between the points, and, as
a result, at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between the
spark plug points. Do not allow the contact points to become “ragged,”
otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in
starting, and when running they are apt to produce an occasional “miss”
in the engine.
_Q._ What is the purpose of the commutator?
_A._ The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the
spark plugs must fire. It affects the “make and break” in the primary
circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto allows the current to
flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the commutator.
Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving, touches the
four commutator contact points, to each of which is attached a wire
connected with the coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through
the entire system of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary,
however, as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly and
sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches the contact
point connected with that unit. The commutator should be kept clean and
well oiled at all times.
_Q._ What about the spark plug?
_A._ One is located at the top of each cylinder and can be taken out
easily with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the
wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of the
secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points on
each spark plug it is forced to jump ¹⁄₃₂″ gap, thereby forming a spark
which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.
The spark plug should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and
should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There is
nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs.
The make of plug with which Ford engines are equipped when they
leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor,
notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the contrary. All
wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should, of
course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.
_Q._ What are the indications of ignition trouble?
_A._ The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or
more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the
trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed
to continue, will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism.
If you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with
a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and
fix it if possible. Do not wait until you get home.
_Q._ How can one tell which cylinder is missing?
_A._ This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils.
Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and
then hold down the two outside vibrators, No. 1 and No. 4, with the
fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two corresponding
cylinders, No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No. 2 and No. 3 running. If
they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or
No. 4. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No. 3 and also No. 1; if
No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in No.
1. In this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the
trouble is located. Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the
missing cylinder.
_Q._ If the coil and plug are right, what?
_A._ The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn
commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in
the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank
slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong or
weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected. It
sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky
permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can
be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the
gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.
_Q._ Does a worn commutator ever cause misfiring?
_A._ Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the
commutator. The surface of the circle around which the roller travels
should be clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact
at all points. If the roller fails to make a good contact on any of
the four points, its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these
surfaces if dirty. In case the fiber, contact points, and roller of the
commutator are badly worn, the most satisfactory remedy is to replace
them with new parts. The trouble is probably caused by short circuited
commutator wires. The spring should be strong enough to make a firm
contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty.
_Q._ How is the commutator removed?
_A._ Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from
commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on
top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which holds the
commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed. Unscrew
lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The
brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.
In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is
reinstated so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed
when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing the
valve door and observing the operation of No. 1 valve.
_Q._ Does cold weather affect the commutator?
_A._ It is a well known fact that in cold weather the best grades of
lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this occurs
in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making
perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fiber. This,
of course, makes difficult starting, as the roller arm spring is not
stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over
the contact points. To overcome this, as well as any liability to the
contact points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with the
commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently to prevent
congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You have probably
noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or
two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so, which indicates
that the timer is in the condition described above and as a consequence
a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.
_Q._ How is the magneto removed?
_A._ It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car in order
to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover.
Take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft.
You will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism.
In taking out these parts, or any parts of the car, the utmost care
should be taken to make sure that the parts are marked in order that
they may be replaced properly.
_Q._ What is to be done when the magneto gets out of order?
_A._ A Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very
little likelihood of their ever losing their strength unless acted
upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachments of a storage
battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets. If
anything like this happens, it is not advisable to try to recharge
them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new magnets
will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed
on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when
installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the
magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are
separated from the surface of the coil spool just ¹⁄₃₂ of an inch. To
take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw
which hold each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the trouble
is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating
under the contact spring cover. Remove the three screws which hold the
binding post in place; remove binding post and spring and replace after
foreign substance has been removed.
VI
THE FORD TRANSMISSION
_Q._ What is the function of the transmission?
_A._ It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies
between the engine shaft and the propeller shaft and by which one is
enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the speed
gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by
it the car is reversed.
_Q._ What is meant by the term “planetary transmission”?
_A._ One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve
around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action
by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears. By
means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of the different
parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most
direct means of speed control and is a distinct advantage to the Ford
car.
_Q._ What is the purpose of the clutch?
_A._ If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight
through to the differential and through it applied its power direct
to the rear wheels, the car would start forward immediately upon the
starting of the engine (were it possible to get it started under such
conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided by means
of the clutch. The part of the shaft to which the running engine is
delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part
gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of
the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive
shaft.