They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables
being more unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are
brought in lay them in cold water. Just before they are to go to
table take them out, pare them and slice them into a pan of fresh
cold water. When they are all sliced, transfer them to a deep
dish, season them with a little salt and black pepper, and pour
over them some of the best vinegar, to which you may add a little
salad oil. You may mix with them a small quantity of sliced onion;
not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight flavour of onion to
the vinegar.