A
THOUSAND MILES ON AN ELEPHANT
IN THE SHAN STATES
[Illustration:
MAUNG HAUT TO KIANG HSEN
]
A
THOUSAND MILES ON AN ELEPHANT
IN THE SHAN STATES
BY
HOLT S. HALLETT, M. INST. C.E.
F.R.G.S., M.R.A.S.
HONORARY MEMBER MANCHESTER AND TYNESIDE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCXC
_All Rights reserved_
TO
THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES IN BURMAH, SIAM, AND THE SHAN STATES,
I DEDICATE THIS BOOK,
AS A MARK OF THE
HIGH ESTEEM IN WHICH I HOLD THE NOBLE WORK
THE AMERICAN BAPTIST MISSION AND
THE AMERICAN PRESBYTERIAN MISSION
ARE ACCOMPLISHING
IN CIVILISING AND CHRISTIANISING
THE PEOPLE OF INDO-CHINA.
PREFACE.
The importance of the Eastern markets to European commerce has long been
recognised, and since the famous Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama
rounded the Cape of Good Hope at the close of the fifteenth century, and
the Portuguese occupied Malacca and established factories or trade
depots in Burmah at Martaban and Syriam, the trade of Western China and
Indo-China has been a prize which has attracted the commercial
aspirations of every maritime mercantile community in Europe.
In 1613, the Portuguese were ousted from Burmah, and six years later,
the English and Dutch established factories in that country. Some years
afterwards the Dutch were expelled, and in the middle of the next
century the French became our rivals for a short time. In 1756 the chief
of their factory was executed, and their factory was destroyed, never to
be resuscitated.
The first Englishman whose name is recorded in history as travelling in
Siam and the Shan States is Thomas Samuel, who happened to be at Zimmé
when that place was recaptured by the Burmese in 1615. In Purchas’s
‘Pilgrims’ it is related that he had proceeded from Siam to Zimmé “to
discover the trade of that country.” From that time to 1687, when the
English were turned out of Siam for killing some of the natives in a
scuffle, many English merchants resided there.
Whilst the coast of Burmah was under native dominion, our traders had to
content themselves with travelling along the great rivers; and it was
not until 1829, three years after we had annexed the Burmese provinces
of Tenasserim and Arakan, that steps were taken by us to establish
overland trade with Northern Siam, the Shan States, and China. In that
year Lord William Bentinck, the Governor-General of India, ordered a
mission to proceed, under Dr Richardson, from Maulmain to the Siamese
Shan States, to ensure friendly relations and trade in that direction;
and in 1837, Lord Auckland, then Governor-General, despatched Captain
(late General) MacLeod, _viâ_ Zimmé and Kiang Hung to China, with the
view of opening up trade with that country. Notwithstanding the
favourable reports of these and subsequent missions, and the frequent
petitions of our mercantile community asking for the connection of
Burmah with China by railway, no action has been taken by the Indian
Government in the sixty years that have elapsed since Dr Richardson’s
mission, for improving the overland routes leading from Burmah to the
great undeveloped markets which immediately border our possessions on
the east. Burmah might as well have remained for these sixty years in
native hands, for all the good that its acquisition has been to the
furtherance of our trade with the neighbouring regions.
When I retired from Government service at the end of 1879, the French
were again in the field. They had annexed the south-eastern corner of
Indo-China, had seized Cambodia from the Siamese, were determined to
wrest Tonquin from China, which they have since succeeded in doing, and
had openly avowed their intention to eject British trade from Eastern
Indo-China, and to do all they possibly could to attract the trade of
South-western, Southern, and Central China to French ports in Tonquin,
where prohibitive duties could be, and have since been, placed upon
British goods. It was under these circumstances that Mr Colquhoun and I
took up the question, placed the necessity of connecting India with
Burmah, Siam, and China before the public, and with the aid of the
mercantile community determined to carry out a series of
exploration-surveys to prove whether or not Burmah could be connected
with these countries by railway at a reasonable expense, and to select
the best route, financially and commercially, for the undertaking. The
present volume deals with my exploration-surveys in Siam and the Shan
States.
The country through which I passed, besides being of interest from a
commercial point of view, was at the time of my visit shrouded with that
glamour which invests all little-known regions; and an accurate
knowledge of its physical features and political relations promised to
be of great importance in view of the action of France in Tonquin, and
our threatened embroilment with that nation in Upper Burmah.
Before commencing the narrative of my journey, in which the manners,
customs, and habits of the people will be portrayed, I will, from
information recently acquired by myself and other travellers, and from
other sources, give a slight sketch of the ethnology and history of the
interesting races met with by me on my journey.
The first mention in history of Lower Indo-China is in the ‘Annamese
Chronicles,’ where it is stated that Founan—the early Chinese name for
Cambodia—in B.C. 1109 was under the rule of a native queen. The next we
hear of it is in A.D. 69, at the time when a Brahman from India, named
Prea Thong, who is said to have been the fugitive son of the sovereign
of Delhi, married the then ruling queen. This Brahman is believed to
have introduced Brahmanism, architecture, sculpture, and astronomy into
Cambodia. At that time Cambodia consisted of an agglomeration of seven
States, which were constantly at war with each other. On the death of
the Brahman’s son, the commander-in-chief of the army made an end of the
principalities, and was elected to the joint throne.
From B.C. 125 there are many accounts of embassies passing between China
and Cambodia, and the country seems rapidly to have reached a height of
prosperity and Eastern splendour. In the third century Chinese
ambassadors mention palaces, towers, and theatres having been erected
for the reception and amusement of the guests, and meeting merchants in
the ports from countries as far west as the Roman Empire. The people
were described by the Chinese as an active and robust small black race,
with long hair knotted on the top of the head; the rich wearing only a
silk loin-cloth, and the poor one of cotton. The women had
head-coverings, and decked themselves with beautifully wrought silver
jewellery set with precious stones. The men excelled in making
jewellery, gold and silver vases, furniture, and domestic utensils—and
were honest, and hated theft above all things. They worshipped Hindoo
gods, and offered up human sacrifices.
This small black race, the Cham or Siam, was of the Malay stock,
doubtless darkened by interbreeding with the Negrito aborigines, and
perhaps with Dravidian colonists from the Madras coast. Remnants of the
Negrito aborigines, evidently akin to the Australioids, are still found
in the hilly districts of the Malay Peninsula, as well as in some of the
adjacent islands: and the Kha, or Ka, in the neighbourhood of Luang
Prabang; the Trao, to the east of Bienhoa in Cochin China; the Hotha
Shans, in the Chinese Shan States; and one of the native races in
Formosa,—are, according to Professor Terrien de Lacouperie,
representatives of the same stock, and akin to the Tiao, a race of
pigmies, with whom the Chinese (Peh Sing tribes) became acquainted when
they entered North-eastern China more than 4000 years ago.
To the north of the Chams, the country from an early period was occupied
by the Lawa, a race with Mon affinities and probably of the Mon stock,
who, according to their own traditions, and the beliefs and traditions
of their neighbours, are the aborigines of the region stretching
southwards from Yunnan, and eastwards from the Salween to the Meh Kong,
and perhaps even to the China Sea. Many of the names of principalities
and deserted cities are said to have been derived from the Lawa; and
fierce battles were fought between them and the Shans before the former
were conquered or driven into the hills. In a few years the language of
this interesting race will be extinct, as the race have gradually been
absorbed into the Shan and Peguan population, and Shan as well as Lawa
is now being spoken in their few remaining distinct villages.
To the west of the Lawa were the Mon or Mun, a Mongoloid race of
Malaysian affinities, whose scattered tribes spread from Indo-China into
Western Bengal and Central India, where they are now known as Kolarian.
Their first kingdom in Lower Burmah was founded at Thatone, an ancient
seaport on the east of the Gulf of Martaban, by an Indian dynasty from
the Madras coast, in the sixth century B.C. About the end of the first
century of our era, Mon tribes drove the Burmese from Prome, which had
been their capital from B.C. 483. These tribes were probably descendants
of the Ngu race, including the Pang, Kuei, and Miao tribes, who, with
the Shan, Yang or Karen, and King or Chin tribes, formed the chief part
of the population of Central and Southern China during the struggle for
empire—604–220 B.C.—between the Dukes of Tsi, Dsin, Ts’in, and Tsoo,
which ended in the ruler of Ts’in becoming the first Supreme Emperor of
China. Some of the wars waged by Ts’in during this period seem to have
been wars of extermination; and many tribes must have sought safety by
moving southward and south-westward out of the area of turbulence. In
one campaign 240,000 heads are said to have been cut off; in another,
140,000; and in others, 60,000, 80,000, and 82,000 heads.
In A.D. 573, the Mon founded a separate kingdom at Pegu, which, with the
Thatone kingdom, was destroyed by the Burmese King of Pugan in the
middle of the eleventh century; from that time to 1287, when Pegu was
conquered by the Shan King of Martaban, Lower Burmah remained under the
Burmese. In 1540 it was reconquered by the latter, and formed part of
their empire for 200 years. In 1740 the Mon, aided by the Karen and Gwe
Shan, rebelled against Burmah, and, electing a Gwe Shan as their king,
commenced the great fight for supremacy, which lasted till 1757, and
left the Burmese supreme in the country until we annexed it.
The language of the Mon is now nearly extinct in Lower Burmah. The Mon
or Peguans, who sided with us during the first Burmese war, were
mercilessly ill-treated by the Burmese when we evacuated Martaban and
Pegu: those who did not escape into Tenasserim, Zimmé, and Siam, were
either murdered or forced to learn and speak the language of their
oppressors.
To the north of the Mon race, in the district of the Middle Irawadi, the
country was occupied from an early date by Burmese tribes of Tibetan
origin, who were gradually welded together by warlike Kshatriya princes,
who invaded the country from Northern India. According to the Tagaung
Raza Weng, their first capital in Burmah was founded at Tagaung by Abhi
Raja, one of the Sakya Rajas. This prince came from Kapilavastu with an
army, and, B.C. 923, built the city. One of his sons founded a dynasty
in Arakan, and a grandson established another at Kalê in the Kubo
valley. The destruction of the first monarchy at Tagaung was due to the
irruption of tribes, probably Shans, from the East. This is said to have
happened in the sixth century B.C.
About this time a second band of Kshatriyas arrived from Gangetic India,
whose chief, Daza Raja, married the widow of the queen of the last
dynasty, and some years later, B.C. 523, built old Pugan, near the site
of the ancient capital. His successor was expelled and driven south by
the Shans, and founded a new capital, B.C. 483, at Prome, in the north
of Lower Burmah. Upper Burmah was thus left in the possession of the
Shans, many of whose cities in the Shan States lying to the west of the
Salween were founded about this time. Moné is said to have been built as
early as B.C. 519.
Thirteen years after the Burmese were turned out of Prome by the Mon,
they created a new capital, A.D. 108, at Pugan, where the Burmese
monarchy continued until 1291, when it was expelled by the Shans, who
governed Burmah from that time until 1554. From thence until we annexed
the country, Upper Burmah was under Burmese rulers.
The Karen tribes who are found scattered amongst the hills in Burmah and
Siam from the latitude of Mandalay southwards, are called by the Burmese
Karen or Kayen; by their other neighbours they are known as Yang,
pronounced sometimes nasally as Nyang. These people are believed to have
been a branch of the Chau or Djow, which entered the north-west of China
about B.C. 1276. The Djow displaced the Shang dynasty in China B.C.
1122, and remained supreme over the agglomeration of principalities
forming the Chinese Empire until B.C. 336, when some of the States
acknowledged Ts’in as their lord. Djow was ultimately overthrown, in
B.C. 255, by the Prince of Ts’in, who took possession of Djow’s
sacrificial vessels and the nine tripods, the symbols of empire. During
their rule the Djow preserved their ancient faith in divination, and the
augurs in the courts of the principalities occupied a distinguished
position. No expedition or any business of importance was entered into
without first consulting the fates.
The Yang or Karen—who gave their name to the Yangtsze Kiang, and settled
on its banks—at the time of the destruction of Tsoo, the great
principality which covered Southern China, by the Shensi State of Ts’in,
B.C. 221, occupied the country to the south of the river in the
provinces of Kiangsu, Anhwei, and Kiangsi. They were driven away by the
Shan and Mon population of the eastern provinces, 210–206 B.C., and were
finally expelled from China by the Shan King of Nanchao, _viâ_
Yungchang, a city on the Bhamo route, A.D. 778. They have since spread
southwards into Lower Burmah and Siam. At the time they left China, they
are said to have numbered 200,000 families.
The traditions which are repeated from father to son in metrical verse
by the Yang, have evoked great interest among the American missionaries,
who have done such good work in converting them to Christianity. From
the creation until after the flood these traditions are intrinsically
the same as the Mosaic accounts. Some people firmly believe the Karen to
be the ten lost tribes of Israel; but as their ancestors are known to
have been in China some 550 years before the ten tribes were lost, it is
much more reasonable to believe that they received their traditions from
the Mohammedans of Yunnan, or that before their entrance into China they
followed the tracks of the Peh Sing tribes, and had their earlier home
in the neighbourhood of the Semite tribes, and there acquired their
knowledge. The two other races which have extended southwards from China
into Indo-China are the Jung and the Shan. The former was already on the
borders of China, and some of its tribes had settled about the southern
bend of the Hoang Ho at the time when the Peh Sing Chinese tribes
arrived from their long journey from the neighbourhood of Chaldea. The
Jung, according to Professor Terrien de Lacouperie, were originally of
the same white stock as ourselves, and have become hybrid by
intermixture with the neighbouring races. They were so warlike in their
disposition that their name became amongst the Chinese equivalent to
that of warriors. In the seventh century B.C. they were spread across
the north of China from the extreme west of Kansu to the neighbourhood
of Pekin. Many of their tribes were absorbed by the Ts’in—the Seres of
the Greeks and Romans—of the province of Shensi, whose State name Ts’in
has been by Europeans corrupted into China.
The people of Ts’in claimed kinship with the Niao-suk (Nila-Cakas or
black Sakœ), and with the Fei or Bod, the people of Tibet. About B.C.
770, Ts’in was incorporated in the agglomeration of dukedoms or States
forming the Djow dominion, and rapidly increased in strength by
conquest, and partly by the absorption of the neighbouring Jung tribes.
It then grew in power at the expense of the eastern States, and brought
them into subjection. It further carried its sway across the Yangtsze
B.C. 279, and conquered Tsoo. Its duke became Supreme Emperor of Ts’in
B.C. 220.
The Jung tribes which were not absorbed by Ts’in, gradually pressed
southwards amongst the Shan tribes in Szechuen, and are now found, under
the tribal names of Mo-so, Lissu, Lolo, La-hu, La-wa (Lahs and Wahs to
the north of Kiang Tung), &c., in the west of that province, and in
Yunnan, Kweichau, and the Shan States as far south as the latitude of
Zimmé, and as far west as the Salween river. These tribes speak a
Tibeto-Burmese language.
The Shan race, known by the self-names of Tai, Pai, Lao, &c., occupies
an area of country six times as large as the United Kingdom; yet, owing
to the trading propensities of the race, the dialects spoken by the
Shans differ so slightly that travellers from the Tonquin hills,
Kwangsi, Yunnan, and Bhamo can converse with people at Zimmé and at
Bangkok.
In the earliest times we hear of the Shans under their tribal names
stretching across China from east to west, and occupying the country
between the Yangtsze and the Hoang Ho. From 1766 to 1122 B.C. they are
supposed to have been the dominant power in China, since the Shang, or
traders, the ruling dynasty during that period, were presumably of their
race. Later on they spread over Southern China, forming a large
ingredient in the kingdoms of Tsoo, Tsen or Tien, and Nan-Yueh, and
extended into the valleys of the Irawadi, Salween, Meh Nam, and Meh
Kong.
The last of their tribes to leave Central China for Indo-China appear to
have been the Chau Tai or Siamese, who were expelled from their seat in
Kiangsi and Anhwei in the tenth century of our era. They were driven to
the south-west into Kwangsi and Kweichau, where some of their tribes are
still found, and a large body ultimately migrated into the Shan States
to the south of Kiang Hsen.
In the latter half of the thirteenth century the country occupied by the
Shans was in a state of turmoil and unrest. The ancient principalities
in Yunnan had been conquered by Kublai Khan 1253–54; the Shan States to
the south and west of Yunnan had been attacked, and a consequent great
displacement of the population occurred. At that time the agglomeration
of States formed by the Ngai Lao or Lao Shans stretched southwards from
the latitude of Kiang Hsen to the northern confines of Cambodia or
La-Wek, which then included a number of principalities in the valley of
the Meh Nam, as well as in that of the Meh Kong. About 1281, according
to the Shan records at Zimmé, the Prince of Kiang Hsen advanced
southwards and conquered Lapoon, and in 1294 founded the present city of
Zimmé. The Lapoon Shans fled into Martaban, and, headed by one of
themselves, attacked the Burmese governor, slew him, and made their
leader Wa-re-ru King of Martaban, A.D. 1281. Six years later, this Shan
king conquered Pegu, and Shan kings reigned over the joint kingdom from
that time until they were conquered by the Burmese in 1540. Upper Burmah
was likewise under Shan kings from A.D. 1290 to 1554.
It was about the time of the conquest of Lapoon, according to Siamese
history, that the Siamese were expelled from Kiang Hai by the Prince of
Sittang. The Siamese fled southwards, and founded a new capital at Muang
Pehp or Pet, opposite the present city of Kamphang Pet on the Meh Ping.
In 1320 they deserted that city and founded another in the
neighbourhood, and thirty-one years later migrated to the south, built
their new capital at Ayuthia, on the site of a deserted Cambodian city
called Viang Lek, founded dukedoms or _Muangs_ at Soo-pan-Boo-ree and
Lop-Boo-ree, and joined the confederation formed by the Ngai Lao States,
over which the King of Sukkhothai was then suzerain. This king had
attacked Cambodia in 1296, pillaged its cities in the valley of the Meh
Nam, driven the Cambodians to the eastward, and thus rendered the
country available for the Siamese settlements.
As time went on the Siamese became the predominant State in the kingdom,
and entered on frequent wars of aggression with Cambodia, Annam, Vieng
Chang, and Zimmé. In 1546, six years after the Burmese King of Toungoo
had conquered Pegu, the Siamese commenced the series of wars with Burmah
which ended in nearly exterminating the population of both countries.
Every able-bodied man who did not take refuge in flight was forced into
the ranks, either to defend his country, or to attack that of his
neighbours, or the neighbours of the power to which his own State was
tributary. Armies, from forty thousand to two hundred thousand men
strong, ravaged the land, and swept away, as in a great net, those of
the inhabitants who were not killed in battle. In vast tracts not a man,
woman, or child remained; and elephants, rhinoceroses, tigers, deer,
wild cattle, and other wild animals took possession of the devastated
country. At length the Mon armies of Burmah, who hated forced service,
mutinied, and, taking their wives and children with them, fled into
Siam; and Zimmé, which had been under Burmah, except in times of
rebellion, from 1558 to 1774, threw off the yoke and asked for the
protection of Siam. To such an extent was the population thinned out by
the incessant warfare, that when we annexed the Burmese province of
Tenasserim, which borders Siam and Zimmé, we found in it barely seventy
thousand souls.
Burmah is blessed with a fruitful soil and a bounteous rainfall. It only
requires increased population to make it the garden of the East; and
every chief commissioner, from Sir Arthur Phayre downwards, has
advocated its connection with China by railway, as the means for
supplying that want from the most industrious and enterprising people in
Asia, the Chinese.
I take this opportunity to record my deep sense of gratitude to the Rev.
J. N. Cushing, D.D., and the Rev. D. M‘Gilvary, D.D., who accompanied me
as comrades and interpreters during part of my explorations, for their
friendly endeavour to secure the success of my undertaking; and I have
much pleasure in expressing my heartfelt appreciation of the frank
cordiality and unwearying kindness accorded me by all the American
Missionaries and Missionary Ladies during my stay in the country.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Dr Cushing’s arrival—A-heng—Leave Shoaygoon—Gold and silver
carried—Flood of 1877—A bad driver—Dog offered to demons—Soused
in the Hlineboay—Hlineboay—Traders—Mr Bryce’s party—Asked to
join parties—Dr Cushing in charge of commissariat—Labelling and
sorting baskets—The luggage—Medicines—Karen interpreter—Loading
the elephants—Portow and Loogalay—Madras boys good fighters, 1
CHAPTER II.
Surveying—Thankful for a halt—Leave Hlineboay—Karen houses
infested with bugs—Halt near well—Rigging up shelter for the
night—Tent left behind—Teak-forest—Yunnanese—A scare—Exploding
bamboos—Trees 130 feet high—A mid-day halt—The British
guard-house—A night camp—Glutinous rice, mode of cooking and
carriage—Elephants feeding—Heavy dew—Journey down the Yembine
valley—Motion of elephants—Difficult surveying—A practical
joke—Railway to Rangoon and Mandalay—Heathen Karens—No longer a
missionary—Difficulty in converting Buddhists—Venison for
dinner—Stung by bees—Pass between the Thoungyeen and the
Salween—Trees 25 feet in circumference—Limestone cliffs—Offering
to the dead—Descent to the Thoungyeen—The ford, 9
CHAPTER III.
Rev. D. Webster’s party detained—Siamese officials expect
bribes—Photographic plates all spoilt—Visit from Karens—Joined
by the B.B. party—Siamese police post—Gorges in the Thoungyeen
and Meh Nium—Rapids stop navigation—Forests and elephants—Dwarf
races—Kamook and Kamait slaves hired by our foresters—Migration
of Laos from Tonquin—The Khas of Luang Prabang—Sacrifices to
demons—Drinking the health of strangers—King of Siam allows
slave-hunting—Missionaries required in the Meh Kong valley—Leave
the guard-house—Crossing the water-parting—Wild tea—Karen
villages built distant from road—Country formerly
lacustrine—Shelter for the night—Heavy rain—A shower-bath in
bed—Elephants crossing steep hills—Wild animals—Reach the Meh
Nium—Karen pigs—Remains of a lake-bottom—The Maing Loongyee
plain—Epidemic of smallpox—Villages tabooed—Arrive at Maing
Loongyee—Moung Hmoon Taw’s house—A timber prince and the
money-lenders, 19
CHAPTER IV.
Maing Loongyee traversed by war-paths—Dr Richardson’s visit—Price
of slaves—Dr Cushing’s visit—Raided by Karennis—The city and
suburbs—Visit the governor—The Shan States—Government—Succession
to the throne—Titles—Modes of execution—Zimmé formerly extended
from the Salween to the Meh Kong—The governor and his
brother—The bazaar—Distributing seeds—Information from
foresters—Collecting vocabularies—Moung Loogalay—Portow—A
magician—Dr Cushing at work and exasperated—Visit to ancient
city and to the earth-hills—Crossing the river—A dangerous
walk—Pine-trees—Number of Lawa, Karen, and Shan
villages—Population—A Karen dance—Enticing a
Lawa—Description—Similarity between Kamook and Lawa
languages—Visit to the governor—Effect of a telegram—Elephants
hired for forest work from Karens—Mode of attack of male and
female elephants, 30
CHAPTER V.
Leave Maing Loongyee—A hundred-foot waterfall—A beautiful
hill-torrent—A lugubrious tale—Gibbons—Gigantic tree-ferns—Shans
cruel elephant-drivers—Method of driving—Droves of pigs and
laden cattle—Loi Pwe—An accident—Wild raspberries—Shans
bartering goods—The Meh Laik valley—A fall of 2049 feet—Paths
for the railway—Lawa villages—Aborigines—Burial custom—Human
sacrifices in the Shan States and China—Legend concerning the
conquest of the Lawas by the Shans—The virgin of the
lotus-flower—Gaudama sacrificed to as the goddess of
mercy—Sacrifices to ancestors and demons—Similarity of
superstitions in ancient Chaldea and the Shan
States—Photographing Lawas—Clothing worn for decency’s
sake—Costume of Lawas—Cold nights—View of the
hills—Bau-gyee—Iron-mines guarded by demons—A young blacksmith, 42
CHAPTER VI.
Path for a railway—Lawa Sivas—Legends of Poo-Sa and Ya-Sa, and of
Me-lang-ta the Lawa king—Story of a Yak—Descent from the Bau
plateau—A courageous lady—Weird country—Ruby-mines—Reach Muang
Haut—Cabbages—Tobacco-cutting—A bobbery—Fable of the peacock and
the crow—Sketching the country—Conversing by signs—Interviewing
the head-man—Boat-hire on the Meh Nam—Cost of
carriage—Rainfall—Produce of fields—A Shan temple—Method of
making images—Bargain for boats—Temperature in sun and shade, 56
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Muang Haut—Legend of the rapids—Footprints of Buddha—Power
of accumulated merit—Indra’s heaven—River
scenery—Fishing-dams—Loi Pah Khow—Large fish—Naked boatmen—A
pleasant retreat—Wars between the Burmese and Shans—A
sugar-press—Silver-mines—Path for the railway—Water-wheels—The
tiger-head mountain—Pleasant mornings—A river scene—Chanting
prayers—The valley of the Meh Li—Country-house of the chief of
Lapoon—Viang Htau—Visit to a monastery, 69
CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Shan houses—Cabalistic
charms—Superstition—Ancestral and demon worship—Shan dynasties
in Burmah—Zimmé under the Burmese—Rules for
house-building—Possessing a ghoul—The shadow spirit—Kissing with
the nose—Furniture—Meals—Chinese chop-sticks—Spinsters—Weaving
and embroidery—Dyes—Chinese hongs—Fishing—Revolt against
Burmah—Zimmé and Lapoon deserted—A rest-house—Shan
dialects—Entrance of the Meh Hkuang—Musical water-wheels—Brick
and tile works—Houses for the demons—Houses imbedded in
gardens—Light-coloured buffaloes—My first hunt in Burmah—A fine
pagoda—Approach to the city—Arrive at Zimmé—American
Presbyterian missions in Siam and Zimmé, 80
CHAPTER IX.
Our reception—The Mission-house—A beautiful view—A repast—Rev. J.
Wilson—Ancient boundaries of Zimmé—City of Zimmé—Population—The
bridge—An hermaphrodite—Youthful Dianas—Female dress—The
market—Shops—The palace—Visit the king—Discussion about the
railway—Prisoners in chains—Visit a princess—Shan embroidery—A
great trader—Amount of caravan traffic—Number of elephants—Boat
traffic, 94
CHAPTER X.
Chow Oo-boon, a spirit-medium—Consulting ancestral spirits—An
exorcist—Spirit of witchcraft—Ill-treating a patient—Treatment
of witches—False charges—Missionary destroys an image—Execution
of Christians—Proclamation in favour of Christians—Missionaries
protect witches—Undermine superstition—Ghosts perching on
trees—A missionary ghost—Headless demons—A demoniac, 105
CHAPTER XI.
Visit the Siamese commissioner—Description and dress of
Siamese—Deceitful officials—Prince Prisdang’s letter—Pie-crust
promises—A mountebank—Call on the Princess—Treaty of 1874—Siam’s
relation to Shan States—Former obstacles to trade removed—Visit
from Chow Oo-boon—Assassinating a lover—Shan queen in English
dress—Fast and easy-going elephants prized—Kian Yuen, an old
capital—A Chinese pagoda—City of the flower-garden—Muang La
Maing, the site of the first Zimmé Shan city—Ascent of Loi Soo
Tayp—The pagoda of the emerald rice-bowl—Pagoda slaves—Dr
M‘Gilvary joins my party—Visiting Burmese foresters—Religious
buildings erected by the Burmese, 113
CHAPTER XII.
Dinner at the Princess’s—Arrangements for start completed—A
passport—Our pavilion—The Zimmé plain—Leave Zimmé—Canal
irrigation—Halt at Muang Doo—The Chows astray—Camp-dinners and
cookery—Excellent Madras servants—Alteration in Jewan—Courtship,
marriage, and divorce—Kumlung, or family patriarch and
priest—Price of slaves—Slave-bondage—Foreign marriages—Serfdom
in Zimmé—Formation of clans—Government masters in Siam—Crown
commoners, 125
CHAPTER XIII.
Paying for supplies—Land and teak-forests belong to chiefs—Land
rent—Light taxation—Leave Muang Doo—Upper Meh Hkuang—Ascend a
plateau—A surprise—Luong Hkort—The Meh Hkort—Pass between the
drainage of the Meh Ping and Meh Kong—Precaution against
demons—Shans will not travel alone—A scare for
tigers—Head-dressing and tattooing of Zimmé Shans—Charms let in
the flesh—A quiet race—Villagers responsible for loss and crime
in neighbourhood—Must not leave village without
permission—Surveying under difficulties—The little elephant’s
fun—The Meh Wung and Meh Ping—A vast plain depopulated—Timidity
of elephants—Residence for demons—Reach Viang Pa Pow, 133
CHAPTER XIV.
A Chinese fortification—Chinese army destroyed by famine—Viang Pa
Pow—Kiang Tung Lawas—Witch villages—An intelligent prince—Best
direction for railway—Purchase an ox for food—An ancient
lake—Leave Pa Pow—Upper gorge of the Meh Low—Kiang Tung Lawas a
Jung tribe, and distinct from Bau Lawas—Burmese Shans—Cattle
with nose-bags and masks—Effect of soil on foliage—Surprises in
the jungle—Temple at Bau Meh Pik—Offerings to deceased
ancestors—The valley of the Meh Sooay a
game-preserve—Indications of gold—Road to Viang Pow—Lower gorge
of the Meh Low—Portow, the little elephant’s playmate—Loi
Kook—Loi Chang Shans returning from frontier duty—Unwarrantable
action of Chinese general—Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects in
1886—Removal of capital—Kiang Hung annexed by British in
1888—Shans dread entering deserted temples—Deceased monks
classed as demons—Worshipping deceased monks—Suicide of a
princess and two of her maids—Soused by an elephant—Courtesy of
the Chow Hona of Kiang Hai—An immense plain, 142
CHAPTER XV.
Princes in their best clothes—A procession—Reach Kiang
Hai—Dilapidated houses—The Meh Khoke—Ngios from Moné—Kiang
Hai—Former Siamese capital—Early history of Siam—Visit he
chief—Population—Ruined cities—Arrangement between British Shans
and Siamese Shans—Recent encroachment of Siamese—Name entered as
benefactor in royal annals—Visit from La-hu—Oval faces—known by
their petticoats—Monosyllabic languages difficult to
translate—La-hu a Lolo tribe—Comparison of vocabularies, 154
CHAPTER XVI.
A state visit from chief—Insignia of office—Plentiful
rainfall—Rain-clouds from the north—Only silver coins—Indian
money—Frontier dues—Ferry toll—Fishing as a livelihood—Salt and
cowries as small change—Tricks with the currency in Siam—Robbing
the poor—A footprint of Buddh—A monk spoilt by the ladies—Ruined
temples strewn with bronze images—Carl Bock’s loot—The emerald
Buddh—A tattooed Laos Shan—Madras boys taken for ogres—Marching
in single file—Scene at the ford—Cheap provisions—Chinese
caravans—Cost of carriage—Opinion of Dr Cheek as to the
prospects for a Burmah-China railway—Population of Siamese Shan
States—Protection of caravan—Birds and monkeys dying of
grief—Second visit from the La-hu—Marriage customs—Divorce—Gold
in the Kiang Tung Lawa country—Fishing by torchlight, 162
CHAPTER XVII.
Leave Kiang Hai—A hot spring—Elephants without
tusks—Elephant-driving—Danger when driver is careless—A large
rice-plain—Bargaining with the abbot at Muang Doo—Bloodthirsty
flies—Elephants as tool-users—Inhospitable ancestral
spirits—Game plentiful—Utterances of tigers—A magnificent
forest—A stink-wood—Water-parting between the Kiang Hai and
Kiang Hsen plains—Brave butterflies—A field for an
entomologist—Psyche in Burmah—A Central Asian belief—Three
sacred hills—Buddha and Confucius—Legend of Loi Htong—Valley of
the Meh Chan—Pass to Muang Fang—Kiang Hsen plain—Siamese
aggression—Deserted cities of Manola—Tigers—Attack on Kiang Hsen
in 1794—Wild animals—Legend of Muang Nŏng—Thunderstorm—Flooded
country—Leaning pagoda—Reach Kiang Hsen, 177
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Meh Kong at Kiang Hsen—Ringworm—Extensive ruins—Description of
city—Importance of situation for trade—Chinese settlers from
Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan—Projected railway—Surveys being
made by King of Siam—Excursions from Kiang
Hsen—Teak-forests—Robbing an image—Legend of Kiang
Mee-ang—Ancient cities—Comparison between ancient Britons and
Shans—Ancient principality of Tsen—Kiang Hung—Destruction of
Kiang Hsen—Carried away captives—Treachery in war—Population of
Zimmé chiefly slaves—Kiang Hsen reoccupied in 1881—Resettling
it—Action of King of Siam—Friendly footing of missionaries—View
across the Kiang Hsen plain—Flooded country—Leave for Kiang
Hai—A white elephant—Branches as
sunshades—Elephant-flies—Emigrants from Lapoon—Beautiful
scenery—Mr Archer’s description of traffic along the route, 190
CHAPTER XIX.
At Kiang Hai—Ferocious dog—Chinese pack-saddles and mules—Routes
from China—Articles of merchandise—Richness of Kiang Hsen
plain—Visit the Chow Hona—Man killed by wild elephant—Chiefs
wish for railway—Would help by granting wood for bridges and
sleepers—Kamooks for labourers—Chinese Shans and Chinese would
flock in for hire—Easiest route for loop-line to Zimmé—Trees
laden with women and children—Dr M‘Gilvary purchases an
elephant—Receives present from Chow Hona—Sunday
service—Unselfishness of Dr M‘Gilvary—Lapoon
immigrants—Death-rate of immigrants—Boxing—A woman in
chains—Leave Kiang Hai—Young elephants a nuisance—A
yellow-turbaned monk—Fireworks—Whistling rockets—Gigantic
rockets at funerals—A lovely Lolo-Lawa woman—Spring
blossoms—Cross the water-parting between the Meh Low and the Meh
Ing—Hot springs—Houses erected for us—Fisheries—Arrive at Muang
Hpan—Formation of a settlement—Emigrants to Kiang Hsen in
1887—Prosperity of country—Mr Archer’s opinion—The father of the
state—Like a Highlander—Deserted cities—An ancient
Christian—Viang Poo Ken—Rapid decay of buildings in a moist
climate—Ants at work—Damming streams for fisheries—Injury to
drainage—The Meh Ing a sluggish stream—A hare—Oppressive
atmosphere—Searching for water—Boiling mud to make tea—A
distressing march—City of Chawm Taung—A celebrated
temple—Buddhist legend—A golden image sixty feet high—Legend of
Penyow—A Buddh forty-five feet high—Gaudama existing formerly as
Indra—A Shan Rachel—Reach Penyow, 211
CHAPTER XX.
Settled by Lakon—Population—Smallpox—Tutelary spirits—Ancient
cities—Trade-routes and cost of transport—The centre of Ping
States—A Lakon prince—Views about railway—Smallpox
raging—Callousness of natives—Dr Cushing infected—Deserted
cities—Famous for pottery—Gambling currency—Gambling games in
Siam—Fighting crickets, fish, and cocks—Cock-crowing in
Indo-China—Variation in times of new year—Gambling monopoly in
Siam—Proclamation of the king—Gambling chief cause of
slavery—Parents selling children into slavery—Slavery not
abolished—Proclamation issued to delude foreigners—Position of
people daily growing worse—A money-lender buying injustice from
princes and nobles—Encouraging gambling—Gambling-house
jails—State of Siamese Government monopolies—Effect of _corvée_
labour—Burdensome taxation—No justice—General
demoralisation—Shan States better governed, 230
CHAPTER XXI.
Leave Penyow—Wild roses—An inundated country—Royal funeral
buildings—Posts two hundred feet long—Collection and uses of
wood-oil—Description of daily meals—Water-parting between the
Meh Kong and Meh Nam—Path for railway—A dead forest—Reach Muang
Ngow—Settled by Lakon—Karen villages—Teak-forests—Four thousand
Burmese destroyed—A distributing centre for Muang Nan and Muang
Peh—Deficient rainfall—Burmese pedlars—Immigrants from Kiang
Hung—A terrible din—The eclipse—Buddhist legend—Elephants should
rest after noon during hot season—Leave Muang Ngow—Railway from
Bangkok to Kiang Hung crosses no hill-range—Battle-field—The
stone gate—Water-parting between the Meh Ngow and Meh Wung—A
jolting elephant—Ban Sa-det—Offerings for the monks—Presents for
the children—The Buddhist Lent—Lights for evil spirits—The
demon’s lent—Offerings to the naiads—Illuminating the river—King
of Siam lighting fireworks—Scaring the spirits—Offerings to
naiads and demons in case of sickness—Trial by
water—Superstition against saving drowning folk—Descent of the
rain-god Indra—Libations—The water-feast—Bathing the
images—Scene in the temple—Waking the gods with
water—Propitiating the Lawa genii—The warming of Buddh—A
dousing—A compliment—Calling the spirits to witness—Leave Ban
Sa-det—Ruby-mines—Reach Lakon, 246
CHAPTER XXII.
Lakon and Lapoon date from the sixth century—Description of
Lakon—A Christian judge—Law and justice—Punishments commuted to
fines—Legend of the dipped prince—Legend of Lakon—A modern
joke—Legend of the ring lake—The god of medicine—The Aswins
mending an old man—Origin of quack-doctors—A Siamese
doctor—Theory of disease—Medicines—174 ingredients in a
dose—Draughts for the poor, pills for the rich—Medicines by
pailful—Empirics—Belief in demons and witches—Mode of payment by
the job—No cure, no pay—Fee to the god of medicine—Priests to
the demons—Sacrifices—Contamination from lepers—Smallpox and
vaccination—Filthy dwellings and furniture—No pillow-cases or
sheets—Killing bugs—Villages on the Meh Wung—Dr Neis’s
survey—Karen Christians—Rev. D. Webster—Dr Cushing ill—Eagerness
for work—Malarious fevers—Numerous Karens in British Shan
States—Trade of Lakon—Visit the chief—Cheap labour for the
railway—Great heat—Burst of the monsoon, 267
CHAPTER XXIII.
Prince Bigit’s expected visit—Leave Lakon—Cicadas and their
music—A battle-field—Duplicate kings of Siam—Truant elephants—Dr
Cushing has smallpox—A beautiful dale—A dangerous
pass—Water-parting between the Meh Wung and Meh Ping—Number of
villages in the Zimmé plain—The Mai Cha-lau tree—Pagoda on Loi
Tee—A cart-road—Reach Lapoon—The great temple and celebrated
pagoda—Lapoon built like Aladdin’s palace—Description of
city—Deserted for forty years—Visit the chief—Leave Lapoon—Scene
on the road—Reach Zimmé—Report of the R.G.S. on my survey, 283
CHAPTER XXIV.
House for Dr Cushing built in two days—Fumigation and
disinfection—Bribery and extortion at frontier
guard-house—Travellers delayed—Mr Webster’s journey—Trade
between Zimmé, Bangkok, and Maulmain; enhancement of
prices—Comparison between Russia and Siam—Oppression and tyranny
causes cunning and deceit—Siamese the greatest liars in the
East—An amusing interview with a prince—Religious buildings in
Zimmé—Description of monasteries—Bargaining with an
abbot—Palm-leaf books—Evil practices of monks—Sentencing the
descendants of criminals to slavery—Begging for meals—Giving, a
privilege—Rules for the acolytes—Shaving the head and
eyebrows—Teaching in a monastery—Learning manners, 294
CHAPTER XXV.
Leave Zimmé without interpreters—Borrow a tent—Reach Ban Pang
Kai—The cry of gibbons—Legend—A primitive pagoda—Three kinds of
pagodas—Description—Low plateau dividing Meh Low from Meh
Wung—Branch railway from Lakon—The head sources of Meh Wung—A
storm—Teak—Reach Muang Wung—Cockle’s pills—A temple at
night—Tower muskets—A plague of flies—Moosurs—Dr Cushing leaves
for Bangkok—His excellent arrangement—Translator of the Bible
into Shan—Loss of Shan interpreters—Mr Martin joins party—Bau
Lawas in Southern Siam—Arrival of Mr Gould—Elephant
titles—Dinner at the Martins’—A present of cigars, 306
CHAPTER XXVI.
Leave for Muang Fang—The temple of the white elephants—Training
elephants—Evening service in a temple—Legend of Wat Pra
Non—Snake and Siva worship—Caravans—Stick-lac trees not cut
down—The 400 footprints of Buddha—Wild tea—Visit to Shan
ladies—Low dresses—Rules of hospitality—Worshipping the manes—A
zylophone—Implements of expectant Buddha—Straining water—Legends
of Loi Chaum Haut and Loi Kiang Dow—The palace of the
angels—Demons cannot harm Christians—Christianity a great
boon—Accident to aneroid—A vicious elephant—Foot-and-mouth
disease—Snares for demons—A panorama of hills—Sources of the Meh
Ping and Meh Teng—A river passing under a mountain—Muan Hang an
ancient lake-basin—Rival claims of Ping Shans and British Shans
or Ngio—The upper defile of the Meh Ping—A moonlight
scene—Entangling demons at the frontier—A Chinese fort—Loi
Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—Mapping the country—Dr M‘Gilvary’s sermon—Reach
Kiang Dow—Petroleum at Kiang Dow and Muang Fang, 315
CHAPTER XXVII.
Kiang Dow—Invasions of Burmese Shans—Precipitous hills—Muang Hang
under the Burmese—Viang Chai—Catch a Kamait—Entering monastic
life—Inquisitive people—Reach Muang Ngai—View up the river—A
Shan play—Visit the governor—Leave Muang Ngai—Hot springs—Loi
Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—A storm in the hills—Drainage flowing in three
directions—Underground streams—Difficult pass—Sinkage of
ground—A sacred cave—Legend of Tum Tap Tow—Visit the cave—An
unpleasant night—Large game—Threatened with beheading—Legend of
the hare-lip—Building a house—Chinese forts—Trichinosis—Reach
Muang Fang, 334
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Muang Fang—Deserted for 200 years—Proclamation resettling the
province—Population—Settlements of Ngio ousted by Siamese—Land
yielding 250-fold—Ruined cities—320 ruined temples—Purloining
images—Mr Archer’s report—Method of forming new
settlements—Separation of races in the cities—Colonies of
refugees and captives—Chinese Shans as labourers—City sacked by
the Burmese—Governor and wife drown themselves—Cost of
carriage—Dr Tiger the hunter—Bargain for a dagger—Sworn
brothers—Cambodian and Karen ceremonies—The augury of
fowl-bones—Passing merit by cotton-threads—First hair-cutting in
Siam—Lao marriage—Visit the ruined cities—Fallen idols—Putting
fugitives in chains—A deer-hunt—Sketching the hills—Visit to Ban
Meh Hang—Out of provisions—Fever and dysentery—Mahout attacked
by vicious elephant—Spreading cattle-disease, 347
CHAPTER XXIX.
Leave Muang Fang—My comrades hunting—Those boys again:
panic-stricken fisherwomen—Water-parting between the Meh Ping
and Meh Kong—Railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang and Kiang Hsen—A
freak of nature—Tree eight feet broad—A deer-lick—Bed without
dinner—Illness of missionaries—Sitting on a snake—Head or tail,
query—Emigrants carrying spinning-wheels—Cross the Meh Ngat—A
beautiful plain—Viang Pow—Visit from the governor—Ngio
raids—Lolo and Karen villages—Effect of monopolies—People
deserting Muang Fang—Officials collecting taxes for
monopolists—No gambling and opium dens—Cost of carriage—Export
of rice—One son-in-law in one house—Trade-routes—Leave Viang
Pow—The defile of the Meh Ngat—Accident to aneroid—A fine
view—An aristocratic governor—Population—Wild tea—Light
taxation—Free from vices—Put up with a Shan convert—Women well
treated amongst the Shans—Cutch-trees—Reach Zimmé, 360
CHAPTER XXX.
Offering to the good influences—The spirit in sleep—The ceremony
of Tum Kwun—Spirit-worship of Ping Shans—Arrangements for
leaving—Visit Siamese prince—A Gatling gun as an
ornament—Railway routes—Number of fighting-men—Dismiss
Loogalay—Pretty pagodas—Boxing and wrestling—The bridge
breaks—Presents from Chow Oo-boon—A lover’s lute—Lace prized—Dr
Cushing’s views on the Ping Shans—Connection with
Siam—Taxation—_Corvée_ labour—Serfs—Slaves purchased from Red
Karens—Debt slaves in chains—Religion—Field for missionaries, 373
CHAPTER XXXI.
Apathy of Siamese officials—Proposal to survey passes between Siam
and Burmah—Mr Webster’s offer—Preparations for boat-journey to
Bangkok—Boats and crew—Kindness of missionaries—Leave
Zimmé—Number of villages—Shan embroideries—Buying petticoats—An
evening bath—Shameless women—Preparing for the rapids—More
bargains—Scrambling for beads—Enter the defile—Magnificent
scenery—Geological changes—Underground rivers—Subsidence and
periods of unrest—An earthquake-belt—Limestone cliffs—A Chinese
smuggler—Roped down the rapids—Picturesque cliffs—Precipices a
mile high—A waterfall—Three pagodas—Offerings to demons—Spirits
of the jungle—Forming spirit-clans—Alluring travellers to
death—Lascivious spirits—M‘Leod’s route—Shooting dangerous
rapids—Kamook lumber-men—The pillar-rock—Pass to Ban Meh
Pik—Sketching the governor—Path to Maulmain—Searching for
rubies—A sambhur deer—Leave the defiles—Entrance of the Meh
Wung—Paths for the railway—Silver-mines—Reach Raheng, 390
CHAPTER XXXII.
The former governor in league with dacoits—Trouble on the
frontier—Dacoiting boats—Advice to a missionary—The governor of
Petchaburi—A petition to the king—Robbing the
people—Misgovernment of a Siamese province—Missionary’s opinion
of the king—Extraordinary floods in Siam—The seasons—Flood of
1878: villages washed away—Flood of 1831—Entering the palace in
boats—Boat-journeys from and to Bangkok, 406
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Growth of foreign competition for trade—Need for new markets—India
and China as markets—Necessity for cheap communications—Action
taken by Mr Colquhoun and myself—probable effects of the
Indo-Siam-China railway—Indo-Burmese connection in course of
construction—Reasons for choosing Maulmain as terminus for
connection with China—Siamese section now under survey—Effects
of connecting Maulmain with Siamese railway—Cost of
connection—Prospective advantages—Caravan-routes from Maulmain
to Raheng—Estimate for branch to our frontier—Approximate
estimate for continuing the branch to Raheng—Comparison between
proposed British and Russian railways—British interests in
Siam—Mr Satow’s letter—Sir Arthur Phayre’s opinion on our duty
to protect Siam—Connection of Burmah and Siam by railway the
best form of support—Cannot allow Siam to be absorbed by
France—Effect of such absorption upon Burmah—Opinions of Sir
Charles Bernard—Cannot afford to hand over our markets to
France—Opinion of Sir Henry Yule—Paying prospects of the branch
to the frontier—Sir Richard Temple’s opinion—The most promising
of all future railway lines—Effect of proposed lines—Sir Charles
Bernard’s project—Comparison between Maulmain and Bhamo
routes—Takaw route—Kun Lôn ferry routes—The Maulmain route or
nothing—Importance of the question, 414
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Leave Raheng—Islands—Zimmé Shans in Raheng—Siamese
women—Misleading strangers—“Sow” and “rat” polite terms—Reach
Kamphang Pet—Saluted with stones—Found dead—Burmese—Visit the
governor—The flood—Population—A female interpreter—Leave
Kamphang Pet—Cultivation—Reach Pak Nam Po—Toungthoo
pedlars—Navigation on the Meh Nam—Loop-line to
Ootaradit—Gambling-house—A Frenchified monk—Sketching a bearded
Siamese—Size of the delta—Journey to Bangkok—A long street of
villages—Reach Bangkok, 435
CHAPTER XXXV.
Mr Scott—Visit to the legation—Adepts at intrigue—Mr Alabaster on
Siam—Everything taxed—The revenue—_Corvée_ labour—Impoverishing
the people—The old school dying out—The iron-road a magician’s
wand—King Stork—Putting a stop to cattle-theft—A piquant
story—Cattle-lifting by officials—A lingering lawsuit—Extorting
confessions—Torture at the police courts—The last day’s
agony—Unlawful imprisonment—Inside a prison—Immorality of
princes—Fit companions—Brothels in Bangkok—Selling
relations—Chanting prayers—Flogging women—The biggest liars and
thieves—Slavery in Bangkok, 445
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Mr Colquhoun’s arrival—Prince Devan—Character of the king—Visit to
Prince Devan—Memorandum on the railways—Grant required for
further exploration—Interview with the king—Terms required by
syndicates—Siam’s credit—The connection with Burmah—Excursion
into Eastern Siam—Nai Sin—An official of 2500 marks—Poo
Bah—Golden opportunities—Trumpery fortifications—After the
storm—The Bang Pa Kong river—Legend of the Kow Din—An infatuated
monk—Chinese in Siam—Estimate of population—Chinese immigrants
and their descendants—Marking the people—Unscrupulous Government
masters—Their little games—A vast plain—Little
cultivation—Lovely scenery—Tramway to the goldmines—Return to
Bangkok—Dr M‘Gilvary’s opinion upon the projected railways—One
of the grand works of the century, 454
APPENDIX.
BURMAH-SIAM-CHINA RAILWAY.—RESOLUTIONS OF CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE, 464
INDEX, 475
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
PORTOW, 6
AN EXECUTION, 33
VIEW LOOKING WEST DOWN PASS AT 10.53 A.M. 14TH FEB., 44
LOI PWE SEEN OVER A SPUR AT 9.57 A.M. 15TH FEB., 45
MEH LAIK VALLEY AND GORGE AT 1.3 P.M. 15TH FEB., 47
A VIRGIN OF THE LOTUS-FLOWER, 51
VIEW ACROSS THE MEH HTO AND MEH LAIK VALLEYS AT 10.54 A.M. 15TH
FEB., 53
A YAK, 57
A SIAMESE KING, 59
VIEW TO THE SOUTH FROM A HILLOCK BEHIND MUANG HAUT, 64
VIEW FROM NEAR BAN HSOPE KYEM, 72
LOI HOO-A SOO-A WITH LOI PAH KUNG IN THE BACKGROUND, 77
VIEW FROM THE TOP OF LOI NOI AT 8 A.M. 23D FEB., 78
DOMESTIC UTENSILS, 85
SPINNING IMPLEMENTS, 86
VIEW OF LOI SOO TAYP FROM BAN MEH KA, 91
A SHAN GHOST, 111
A SHAN HOUSE, 134
A TA-LAY-OW, 137
VIEW OF LOI MOK AND THE HEAD OF THE MEH WUNG AT 4.42 P.M. 10TH
MARCH, 140
THE LITTLE ELEPHANT’S FUN, 148
BAMBOO SHOULDER-TRESTLE, 150
VIEW OF LOI POO-AY AT 1.3 P.M. 14TH MARCH, 151
VIEW OF LOI KOOK LOI CHANG AT 1.3 P.M. 14TH MARCH, 152
VIEW UP THE MEH KHOKE FROM THE SALA AT KIANG HAI, 157
A LA-HU YOUTH, 160
A CROWNED BUDDHA, 166
FISHING IMPLEMENTS, 168, 169
DROP-NET, 176
VIEW OF LOI PONG PRA BAT AT 11.11 A.M. 18TH MARCH, 178
VIEW OF LOI HTONG, LOI YA TOW, AND LOI TA, AT 2.34 P.M. 19TH
MARCH, 182
VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MEH CHUN AT 3.57 P.M. 19TH MARCH, 185
VIEW OF LOI CHANG NGO AT 4.49 P.M. 20TH MARCH, 186
PHYA IN OR INDRA, 187
THE KOO TOW, 188
VIEW OF LOI CHAN FROM KIANG HSEN, 191
VIEW OF HILLS EAST OF THE MEH KONG RIVER, 192
THE GREAT BEND OF THE MEH KONG FROM KIANG HSEN, 193
RUINS AT KIANG HSEN, 194
PLASTER DECORATION ON PILLARS, 195
VIEW OF WESTERN HILLS, 197
A SHAN HOUSE IN KIANG HSEN, 203
VIEW OF HILLS WEST OF KIANG HSEN PLAIN FROM PAGODA ON HILL, 206
CITY ENCLOSURE. SKETCH OF AN ENTRANCE TO KIANG HSEN, 207
CHINESE PACK-SADDLE, 212
VIEW UP THE MEH KHOKE FROM KIANG HAI, 217
ROCKET-STICK OF BAMBOO, FORMED INTO A WHISTLE AT THE TOP, 219
PHYA NYAK, THE KING OF SERPENTS AND DRAGONS, 227
TERRA-COTTA PEDESTAL, 233
PHYA KHRUT OR GARUDA, THE KING OF EAGLES, 234
EVIL SPIRITS, 259
A DRYAD, 260
PUNISHMENTS IN THE BUDDHIST HELLS, 263
VIEW OF HILLS EAST OF LAKON, 270
A SHAN QUEEN, 291
VIEW OF THE HILLS TO THE NORTH-EAST OF ZIMMÉ FROM PEN YUK, 307
OX DRAWING TIMBER IN FOREST, 308
VIEW OF THE HEAD OF THE BASIN OF THE MEH WUNG, 309
VIEW OF THE KYOO HOO LOW AND HILLS EAST OF MEH WUNG, 310
VIEW OF LOI MUN MOO PASS AND HILLS EAST OF MEH WUNG, 310
IMPLEMENTS FOR THE USE OF EXPECTANT BUDDHAS, 322
VIEW OF LOI CHAUM HAUT, 323
HILLS TO THE NORTH OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN FROM THE MEH TENG, 327
VIEW OF LOI KIANG DOW FROM THE MEH TENG, 328
VIEW OF HILLS NORTH-WEST OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN FROM THE MEH TENG, 329
LOI CHAUM HAUT FROM BAN MEH MEH, 331
VIEW OF LOI PA-YAT PA-YAI, 332
SKETCH OF LOI KIANG DOW AND LOI NAN, 335
VIEW UP THE VALLEY OF THE MEH PING FROM MUANG NGAI, 339
VIEW LOOKING SOUTH-WEST FROM MUANG FANG, 349
JUNCTION OF THE MEH FANG AND MEH KHOKE VALLEYS, 356
VIEW UP THE MEH FANG VALLEY FROM BAN MEH HANG, 358
VIEW ACROSS MUANG KEN AND THE VALLEY OF THE MEH PING, 367
HILLS WEST OF THE MEH PING AT 11.55 A.M. 23D MAY, 368
VIEW OF HILLS WEST OF THE ZIMMÉ PLAIN AT 4.24 P.M. 23D MAY, 371
HANUMAN, KING OF MONKEYS, 376
PROM OR BRAHMA, 376
PHYA LAK, 377
PHYA WET SAWAN (VISHNU), 377
SIAMESE WRESTLERS, 386
PEE POK-KA-LONG (JUNGLE DEMONS), 398
LOI PA KHUN BAIT, 400
EXTREMITY OF SPUR FROM THE WEST RANGE, 401
SKETCH AT 188½ MILES FROM BAN PAH YANG NEUR, 403
SKETCH AT 196½ MILES FROM BAN MEH NYAH, 404
HAND-DREDGE, 435
VIEW OF HILLS LOOKING EAST AT 218 MILES FROM BAN KOW NOME WAN, 436
SKETCH AT 216½ MILES FROM BAN TA KARE, 436
VIEW LOOKING WEST FROM KAMPHANG PET, 440
LOI KOW CHUNG, 440
LOI KOW CHUNG, 441
LOI KOW LUONG, 442
VIEW FROM THE JUNCTION OF THE MEH NAM, 443
_LIST OF MAPS._
SOUTHERN CHINA AND INDO-CHINA, SHOWING PROPOSED
FRENCH AND ENGLISH RAILWAYS, _To face title-page_
MAULMEIN TO MAINGLOONGYEE, _To face page_ 9
MAINGLOONGYEE TO MAUNG HAUT, „ „ 43
MAUNG HAUT TO KIANG HSEN, „ „ 69
KIANG HAI TO LAKON, „ „ 219
LAKON TO ZIMMÉ, „ „ 283
ZIMMÉ TO B. MEH HANG, „ „ 315
, „ „ 392
A THOUSAND MILES ON AN ELEPHANT IN THE SHAN STATES.
CHAPTER I.
DR CUSHING’S ARRIVAL—A-HENG—LEAVE SHOAYGOON—GOLD AND SILVER
CARRIED—FLOOD OF 1877—A BAD DRIVER—DOG OFFERED TO DEMONS—SOUSED IN
THE HLINEBOAY—HLINEBOAY—TRADERS—MR BRYCE’S PARTY—ASKED TO JOIN
PARTIES—DR CUSHING IN CHARGE OF COMMISSARIAT—LABELLING AND SORTING
BASKETS—THE LUGGAGE—MEDICINES—KAREN INTERPRETER—LOADING THE
ELEPHANTS—PORTOW AND LOOGALAY—MADRAS BOYS GOOD FIGHTERS.
“Dr Cushing here, sahib! boat coming:” so gasped Veyloo and Jewan, my
Madras servants, as they came racing up the staircase of the teak-built
court-house at Shoaygoon, where I was enjoying a smoke whilst reclining
in my table-armed folding-chair. This chair, which was a miracle of
comfort and convenience, together with my camp-bedstead, had been
designed and constructed for me by A-heng, a very clever and honest
Chinese contractor, who for many years had been employed by me in
constructing bridges, court-houses, jails, bazaars, and various other
public buildings whilst I was in charge of the Tenasserim division of
Burmah. This division, measuring 630 miles in a north and south
direction, forms the eastern portion of Lower Burmah, and is bordered on
the east by Siam and the Siamese Shan States, through which I was about
to journey in search of the best route for a railway to connect Burmah
with South-western China.
Following the boys, who had rushed off as soon as they had given me the
news, I scrambled down the steep bank of the Salween river, which forms
the western boundary of the garden of the court-house, and reached the
water’s edge some minutes before the boat stranded at my feet.
“Here we are, together at last!” I exclaimed, as I helped my future
companion from the boat; “I do hope you are better. I was so glad you
succeeded in persuading the doctor to allow you to come,—I should have
been helpless without you.”
“Thanks; I feel better already, and hope to be all right in a day or
two,” said Dr Cushing. “Jungle-life was what I wanted: my illness,
although partly the after-effects of fever, was mainly due to being
cooped up for months at indoor work. Have you got the elephants?”
“Yes,” I replied, “they are at Hlineboay, and I have arranged for seven
carts to take our things there to-morrow. We can have them packed after
lunch, and see if we shall require more. Come along; the boys have lunch
ready.”
Meanwhile the boys had been welcoming Ramasawmy, Dr Cushing’s Madras
servant; and Shoay Wai and Portow, the Shan interpreters, who had been
hired for the expedition, were aiding the boatmen to unload the boat and
carry the things to the court-house.
The next morning, the 21st of January, we were away early, Dr Cushing
and I leading the way in the cart which carried our bedding and the
treasure; the latter consisting of fifteen bags, each containing a
hundred rupees, packed away in the tin boxes and waterproof bags amongst
my clothing, and a heavy burden of gold-leaf, which for safety I carried
on my person. How glad I was to place the gold in the custody of the
missionaries at Zimmé when I arrived there! Very few men would care to
be rich if they had to carry their wealth in bullion about them.
After continuing northwards along the river-bank for two miles we turned
eastward, crossing the low land that lies between the Salween and the
high laterite ground which separates it from the basin of the Hlineboay
river. The highest point passed by the cart-road between Shoaygoon and
Hlineboay is less than a hundred feet above the former place. The great
flood of 1877 rose two feet six inches above the bank of the Salween at
Shoaygoon, or to a level twenty feet above the ground in the interior;
but owing to the breadth of the valley and the slope of the country, the
flood-water passed off in a stream a mile in breadth and about ten feet
deep.
Leaving the valley, we proceeded over laterite ground, amongst small
trees and scrub-jungle. Before reaching the Hlineboay river we had been
pretty nearly jolted to death by our abominable driver, the worst and
most apathetic of his kind I have ever suffered from. The carts, as is
usual in Burmah, were springless, and ordinary jolts might be expected;
but this creature drove us against trees and over tree-roots a tyro
might have avoided. I was particularly annoyed, as Dr Cushing was only
just recovering from an attack of liver complaint. It was no use
expostulating (though expostulate we did), for there only came bang,
bang, bang over another tree-root. We had to laugh, the man seemed so
utterly irreclaimable. Loogalay, my half-breed Burmese Mohammedan, who
was walking by the cart, assured us that it was no use talking to the
man,—“He was _yainday_ (a country lout); born a bullock, and would die a
buffalo”—that is, he was born a bumpkin and would die a blockhead.
On passing near the village of Quanta, which is situated about eleven
miles from Shoaygoon, Dr Cushing called to me to hold my nose,—the
Karens, to propitiate the _nats_ (demons, gnomes, and fairies) of the
vicinity, had sacrificed a dog to them, and the air for a hundred yards
was reeking with the stench from the crucified remains.
A mile and a half farther on we entered the low ground bordering the
Hlineboay river, and shortly afterwards came to the stream. The banks,
even where cut away for the cart-road, were steep, and the ford was
narrow. Here was a chance for our Jehu. When racing down the bank,
instead of attending to the oxen he gazed back at the other carts. The
cattle, turning sharply at the ford, dragged the cart into the deep
water up-stream. We were soused up to our waists, our bedding was
drenched, and I incurred three hours’ unexpected labour in cleaning and
readjusting my surveying instruments, which would otherwise have been
ruined by their bath. Our Handy Andy was not in the least discomposed by
his achievement; it was an everyday feat to him: his countenance was a
picture of impassive stolidity; he showed no signs of being horrified or
even delighted at the effects of his carelessness. What could we do but
laugh? He was indeed born a bullock, and fast merging into the buffalo.
A mile and a half down-stream from the ford, skirting the river, brought
us to Hlineboay, where we put up in the court-house, which the _myook_,
or native judge and magistrate, had courteously placed at our disposal.
Hlineboay, a village of seven or eight hundred inhabitants, chiefly
Karens, being the headquarters of a township, contains a court-house and
police station. It lies at the junction of the thoroughfares from
Thatone and Maulmain to the Shan States and China, and is at the
navigation head of the Hlineboay river, and 111 miles distant by water
from Maulmain. In the dry season, which lasts for half the year, it has
a large local market and carries on a considerable trade. People
congregate there from all directions. Scattered before the court-house
you may see natives of India from Maulmain with cotton goods and twist;
Burmans and Talaigus from the same place, with oil, salt, dried and salt
fish, tinned provisions, and other commodities; Karen villagers with
fowls, ducks, and pigs from the neighbouring districts; Shan and
Toungthoo cattle-dealers from Thatone on their way to the Shan States;
Chinese with mule-caravans from Yunnan; parties of Shans from Zimmé,
with packs of beautifully worked silk garments, and others returning
with woollen and cotton piece-goods and sundry articles of peddlery: the
whole scene teeming with life and colour. In the rains trade becomes
slack, and the Myook moves his quarters to Shoaygoon, opposite which the
great teak-rafts drift down the Salween from Siam, the Shan States, and
Karenni to the timber-yards at Maulmain.
Moung Tsan Yan, the Myook, an old acquaintance of mine, came to see us
on our arrival, and told me that he had secured fourteen elephants, six
for our party and eight for that of Mr Bryce, the head manager of the
Bombay Trading Company, who had asked me to join parties with him, so
that we might travel together as far as Zimmé. Dacoits might be lurking
on the frontier: the more Europeans there were together, the less liable
should we be to attack. I accordingly halted until the 23d, when,
hearing that he was delayed, I determined to start, making short
journeys in order to enable his party to overtake us.
Dr Cushing kindly took over the commissariat from me, and we set to work
to sort and rearrange the baggage. Previous to leaving Maulmain I had
purchased forty _pahs_, or baskets made of pliable wicker-work, each
being about twenty inches long, fifteen inches broad, and ten inches
deep, which would fit easily into the howdah of an elephant. These,
after sorting, we labelled and numbered, entering the contents of each
in my note-book.
Method in packing saves a great deal of trouble and time when on a
journey. I never met a more methodical man than Dr Cushing. His
arrangements were admirable. Everything was kept in its place. Each
elephant load was stacked separately throughout the journey. Each driver
had charge of his own load, and was held responsible for it.
Stores for several weeks’ supply were packed separately, two _pahs_
together containing what was likely to be required each separate week;
and no other _pahs_, except those in charge of the cook, were allowed to
be opened without our consent. The cooking utensils, crockery, a dozen
of brandy for medicinal purposes, two dozen of whisky, and some of the
medicines, were packed in straw in small wooden cases. These, together
with the _pahs_, two waterproof bags, and a tin box for clothes and
money, my office-box, rugs, bedding, chairs, and camp-bedstead, and our
two selves, formed the load of the six elephants which were to convey us
and our belongings to Maing Loongyee, where fresh steeds had to be
procured.
The medicines, purchased by me chiefly in England, were the usual ones
carried in Indo-China. They consisted of quinine, Warburg’s tincture and
arsenic for fever, ipecacuanha, Dover’s powder and laudanum for
dysentery, Eno’s fruit-salt, Cockle’s pills and chlorodyne for lesser
ailments; pain-killer for dispelling the agony of bites from noxious
insects such as the huge dairy-keeping red ants that milk syrup from
plant-lice, centipedes and scorpions; Goa powder for ringworm, the most
general and contagious plague in the far East; and vaseline and
Holloway’s ointment for abrasions of the skin and ordinary casualties so
frequent on a journey. Dr Cushing was a doctor of souls: he knew, and
would know, nothing of physic; he abhorred it. His wife had been the
general practitioner on his former journeys. There was no help for it; I
must be the physician as well as the leader of the party.
[Illustration:
_Portow._
]
At daybreak on the 23d of January, having finished our packing and
procured a Karen guide who could speak Burmese and Talaing to serve as
my interpreter as far as Maing Loongyee, we had the elephants brought in
and loaded. Here Dr Cushing’s power as an organiser became apparent. The
baggage had been stacked into six loads, two smaller than the others for
the elephants which were to be ridden by us. The howdahs, however,
proved of unequal size, and some of them would not hold the tin boxes
and cases which were intended for them. The air was filled with
complaints and remonstrances. Each of the Karen mahouts, naturally,
wished his beast to carry less than its portion. Each objected to have
another burden foisted on him. Loogalay and Portow were worse than
useless: both made confusion worse by fussing about, tugging at the
Madras boys, and putting them out of temper by imperious commands mixed
with abuse. Ignorance, according to the copy-books, is boastful,
conceited, and sure. I never saw the proverb better exemplified than by
these two men throughout the journey. It was impossible, in Portow’s
opinion, that Portow could be mistaken; he knew everything; he was
always ready and eager to advise, and equally ready to jeer at and snub
any one else who ventured to do so: but although he had been the
head-man of his village, and was an egregious blockhead and an
egotistical bumpkin, he was eminently good-natured, and bore no malice
when plagued, as he frequently was, by our Madras boys.
Loogalay, or Moung Loogalay, as he liked to be called, was a hectoring,
swaggering blade, as gaily dressed as a game-cock, and as vain as an
actor. A well-built lad of about two-and-twenty, who had been brought up
in an English school, tall and good-looking, thoughtless, gay, and
careless, in his gaily coloured Burmese costume he looked the beau-ideal
of a dashing youth. His hair tied in a chignon on the top of his head,
and festooned with a loosely arranged silk kerchief; his _putso_, or
plaid, serving as a petticoat, with the end jauntily thrown over his
shoulder; his clean white cotton jacket with gold buttons, and the
flower stuck in his ear,—how could one help enjoying the sight of him,
however much one might be put out by his indolence!
Madras boys, particularly those who have been attached to the officers
of a native regiment, and have seen more or less of the world, generally
have a pretty good opinion of themselves. Some are good wrestlers, and
most of them can use their fists. Loogalay was employed as my henchman,
or _peon_—not to do domestic service, but to attend to my wants on the
journey; to pick up geological and botanical specimens, measure the
depth and breadth of streams, help me when photographing, and carry
instructions to the rest of the party. His salary was greater than that
of the boys, and he looked upon himself as head boss over them. Anyhow,
to him they were _kulahs_, his natural inferiors, mere savages or outer
barbarians; he was a _loo_—a man and a Burman. Instead of giving orders
as emanating from me, he constantly put their backs up by assuming
mastery over them, and issuing orders as from himself.
“Heh! Kulah! put those here, not there. What are you about?—_yainday!_”
he vociferated, as the boys were handing up the things to the
elephant-drivers. The boys treated his orders with sullen disdain, and
went on quietly attending to their business. Loogalay was stamping about
and slapping his thighs, becoming more flushed every minute, and looking
more and more like an enraged turkey-cock. I was enjoying the fun,
sitting quietly smoking in my chair up in the court-house, and would
have liked to have watched its further development. There is nothing
like a thunderstorm to clear the air, or a good determined school-fight
to put the young folk at their ease and knock sense into them. Dr
Cushing, however, being in charge of the marching arrangements, put an
end to the cabal by appearing on the scene and bundling Loogalay and
Portow off to attend on the other elephants.
With his presence order came out of chaos, and by half-past seven we
were ready to start. A quarter of an hour later Dr Cushing stepped off
the verandah of the court-house on to the head of his elephant, sprawled
over the greasy Karen mahout to the seat that had been prepared for him,
said good-bye to the Myook, and headed the train of elephants as they
commenced their journey.
[Illustration:
MAULMEIN TO MAINGLOONGYEE
]