DESCRIPTION OF STITCHES.
STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING.
1. Basting.
2. Blind Stitch.
3. Buttonholes.
4. Combination Stitch.
5. Darning.
6. Gathering.
7. Half-back Stitch.
8. Hemming.
9. Overcasting.
10. Overhanding.
11. Running.
12. Slip Stitch.
13. Stitching.
ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.
1. Bands.
2. Blanket Stitch.
3. Chain Stitch.
4. Couching.
5. Feather Stitch.
6. French Knots.
7. Hemstitching.
8. Herringbone Stitch.
9. Kensington Outline.
10. Lazy Daisy or Star Stitch.
MISCELLANEOUS.
1. Bias.
2. Cloth.
3. Eyelets and Loops.
4. Joining and Fastening Threads.
5. Mitered Corner.
6. Patterns.
7. Plackets.
8. Putting in Sleeves.
9. Seams.
A. Bound Seam.
B. Flannel Seam.
C. French Fell.
D. French Seam.
E. Hemmed Seam.
10. Sewing on Buttons.
11. Sewing on Hooks and Eyes.
12. Sewing on Lace.
13. Tucking.
STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING.
=Basting.=--Basting is temporary sewing used to hold the cloth in place
while putting in permanent stitches. As the basting threads are to be
removed, place the knot on the right side. Fasten the threads securely
by taking two or three backstitches. In removing basting threads clip
the threads at short intervals that they may be taken out easily. Much
of the success of the work depends upon careful basting. The extra time
required will be repaid ten-fold. One stitch at a time for beginners,
later two or three stitches may be taken. In basting hems, baste not on
the edge, but very near it. Do not baste on the line where you expect to
stitch, but as near it as possible.
A. An even basting is used on hems, seams of garments, or wherever two
pieces of cloth are to be held firmly together. Take up one-fourth of an
inch and skip one-fourth.
B. Uneven basting is used where very careful basting is unnecessary, as
in the seams of skirts, or in working on a material that clings
together, as a guide for stitching. Take up an eighth of an inch and
skip three-eighths. When only loose basting is required, as when holding
the lining and outside together, a long stitch and two short ones may be
used.
=Blind Stitch.=--The blind stitch and slip stitch are used to fasten a
hem lightly where it is desired to conceal the stitches. To blind stitch
a hem, turn back the edge of the hem to the basting and, holding the
cloth along the edge of the finger, catch first cloth and then hem with
a single stitch that does not show on either side. A slip stitch is a
long stitch on the wrong side and a blind stitch on the hem. It is used
on the milliner's fold.
=Buttonholes.=--A buttonhole is a slit cut and worked to admit a button
for fastening purposes. It is much easier for beginners to commence on
the blind buttonhole. This is made by working around a line instead of
cutting the hole. The stitch, the fan, and the finishing can thus be
learned without the care of the raw edge. The directions for making the
buttonhole are as follows:
[Illustration: STITCHES USED ON PLAIN SEWING.
1--Three styles of basting.
2--The running stitch.
3--The gathering.
4--The backstitch.
5--The half-back stitch.
6--The combination stitch.
7--The overcasting.]
A. PREPARATION OF THE HOLE.
a. _Cutting_--With the buttonhole scissors cut the
hole one-fourth of an inch from the folded edge
and straight with the threads of the cloth.
b. _Stranding_--The strand consists of carrying
the thread along the edge of the buttonhole near
enough to be easily covered by the buttonhole
stitch, for the purpose of adding strength to the
buttonhole. Thread two needles, one with fine
thread or sewing silk and the other with coarser
thread or twist, depending upon the kind of
buttonhole to be made. Place a knot in the coarse
thread or twist, and with the folded edge of the
cloth toward the left hand, bring the needle out
just below the lower right hand end of the
buttonhole, which is the end farthest from the
folded edge. At the other end put the needle into
the cloth just below the end of the cut and bring
it out just above, which will carry the thread
along the edge of the buttonhole. Repeat the same
on the other side bringing the thread out at the
point of starting. Do not cut this thread, as this
is ready to begin the buttonhole stitch after the
overcasting.
c. _Overcasting_--With the fine thread or sewing
silk begin at the lower right-hand end. The object
of the overcasting is to prevent raveling while
working the buttonhole and the fewer stitches
which will accomplish this purpose the better. As
the overcasting must be covered by the buttonhole
stitch do not take over two or three threads deep
and just as few stitches on each side as is
absolutely necessary to prevent the loosening of
the threads. Some materials do not require
overcasting.
B. WORKING THE BUTTONHOLE.
a. _The Stitch_--Determine how deep a stitch is
necessary so that the threads will not pull out,
always keeping in mind that _the shorter the
stitch the better the buttonhole will look_. This
depends upon the kind of material in use. The
first stitch begins one thread beyond the end of
the slit. Holding the buttonhole along the cushion
of the left forefinger with the folded edge of the
cloth toward the left, place the needle into the
slit under the lower edge of the buttonhole and
draw the needle half way through. With the needle
still pointing toward the chest take up the
double thread at the eye of the needle and place
it under the point, passing _from right to left_.
Draw the needle and thread out, and from you, so
that the purl or twist comes to the edge of the
slit. (This makes a firmer edge than when the
thread is carried around the needle from left to
right.) Each stitch is a repetition of the above.
Place the stitches about the width of a thread
apart, as this will avoid a crowded appearance and
makes a firm, hard edge. Do not jerk the thread,
but draw steadily and tight; otherwise the edge
will be rough. Avoid stretching the buttonhole;
the edges should touch when finished.
b. _The Fan_--At the end near the folded edge--the
round end--spread the stitches like the sticks of
a fan, drawing them closer at the top and
spreading at the bottom. Five stitches will work
nicely around the end, the third stitch being
straight with the buttonhole.
C. METHOD OF FINISHING THE BUTTONHOLE.
a. The simplest manner of finishing is as follows:
The buttonhole stitches at this end are at right
angles to the slit, and not rounding as at the
other end. After finishing the last buttonhole
stitch, pass the needle down between the first and
second stitch, and bring it out between the last
and next to the last stitch. Draw the thread tight
so as to bring the edges of the buttonhole
together. Put in several stitches in the same
place. Pass the needle to the under side and
fasten the thread.
[Illustration: METHOD OF BUTTONHOLING.]
b. _The Bar_--The thread being at the top of the
last stitch, pass the needle down between the
first and second stitch and out at the bottom of
the last stitch. Put in three threads across the
width of the buttonhole, bringing the thread out
at the bottom of the last buttonhole stitch. Turn
the cloth so that the thumb covers the thread and
the buttonhole, and work the bar by bringing the
needle out each time over the thread, as in the
blanket stitch. Draw the purl edge toward the
buttonhole. Do not put in too many stitches, as it
makes the loop stand away from the buttonhole.
Near the middle of the bar take one stitch through
the cloth to hold it down.
c. _Caution_--Be sure that the thread is long
enough to work the buttonhole, but not over-long,
as the thread wears and is more liable to break.
Use care and not break the thread, but in case
this happens, take out the last few stitches,
thread the needle on this short end, pass through
the last purl, and fasten the thread on the under
side. With the new thread fasten without a knot on
the wrong side, bring through the last purl at the
edge of the buttonhole and continue.
On cloth that ravels badly put in two parallel
rows of running stitches and then cut the
buttonhole between the rows.
=Combination Stitch.=--The Combination stitch consists of three little
running stitches and a backstitch over the last running stitch. Take
three running stitches on the needle and pull it through. Take up the
last running stitch for the first of the next group of three. It is a
little stronger than the running stitch.
=Darning.=--The object in darning is to repair a rent, if possible so
that it cannot be perceived. The warp and woof threads that have been
worn away are to be rewoven into the cloth. No knots are needed. Leave a
short end of thread to be clipped when the darn is finished.
A. STOCKING DARNING.
Stockings should be darned on the wrong side. A square hole makes a more
symmetrical darn than a round one, and should be used wherever there is
no widening or narrowing in the knitting, as on the leg of a stocking. A
round hole is better for the heel and toe. Cut away the part that is
badly worn. First put in the warp threads, taking care to take up on the
needle all the little loops around the hole and making the darn
symmetrical in shape. Then put in the woof threads, weaving carefully
across the warp over the hole, passing over the threads that were taken
up on the preceding row. _Give special attention to the edge of the
hole, passing first over and then under the edge, that there may be no
ridge._ If the hole is large or stretched out of shape, draw up the
edges by whipping with fine thread. The darning stitches should extend
only as far as the worn part. If the warp threads have strengthened the
worn part sufficiently the woof threads may be extended only far enough
over the edge to fasten securely. In darning a large hole it is
sometimes wise to begin putting in the warp threads at the center first
to prevent stretching. Do not draw the threads too tight, as they will
shrink when washed.
B. CLOTH DARNING.
This may be done with thread, ravelings or hair. In darning with thread
darn on the wrong side, with ravelings or hair on the right. Darn at
right angles to the tear or cut. Continue the darning stitches on each
side of the tear only far enough to strengthen the worn part, usually a
quarter, sometimes an eighth of an inch, is sufficient. Continue the
darn an eighth of an inch beyond the end of the tear. The repairing
shows less if the rows of darning stitches are of unequal length. In
darning take up the threads of cloth passed over in the preceding row,
slipping the needle over one edge of the tear and under the other going
one way and reversing this order going the other way. This makes the
edge smooth and does not throw it up in a ridge. If the material to be
darned is thin or stretches easily, place the rent over a piece of
glazed paper and baste around it before darning. If the cloth is worn
and thin, place a piece of cloth under and darn through the two
thicknesses. Take great care not to stretch the hole or to draw the
threads tight enough to pucker.
=Gathering.=--Gathering is an uneven stitch made by passing over twice
as much as is taken on the needle. When the thread is drawn up this
gives the appearance of fine gathering on the right side and admits of
considerable cloth being gathered into a small space.
Gathering is used in joining a full part to a straight piece, as the
skirt to the band, etc. Gather with a strong single thread a little
longer than than the space to be gathered. _Never use a double thread._
If the thread becomes knotted a new thread must be put in from the
beginning. Hold the cloth, as in the running stitch, with the right
side toward you, using the wrist motion. Make a large knot in the thread
so that it cannot slip through the cloth, and place the knot on the
_wrong_ side. At the end of the gathering slip the needle off and make a
knot in the thread, that it may not pull out.
A. STROKING GATHERS.
For stroking or placing gathers use a coarse needle or a pin. Draw up
the gathering thread just tightly enough so that the pin can be easily
inserted between the gathers and fasten by winding over a pin placed at
right angles to the last stitch. Begin at the left hand, placing the pin
in the fold of the first stitch and stroke gently downward, holding the
pin obliquely. After each successive stroke press the pleat under the
thumb of the left hand. Continue the same with every stitch.
B. SEWING THE GATHERED PART TO THE STRAIGHT PIECE.
Divide both into halves, quarters or eighths, depending upon the length,
and pin the points of division together. Draw up the gathering thread to
the proper length and fasten by winding over a pin. Arrange the gathers
even before basting. Baste just above the gathers, holding the gathered
piece next to you. _Stitch just below the gathering thread._
C. GAUGING.
Gauging or double gathering is done by having a second row of gathering
stitches of equal length and directly below those of the first (so that
when both threads are drawn up the cloth lies in pleats). In heavy
material three or four threads may be put in. Gauging is usually used on
heavy material or on a folded edge that is to be overhanded to a band.
D. GATHERING BY WHIPPING A ROLLED EDGE.
Ruffles of lawn, linen or embroidery are sometimes put upon the edge
instead of into a facing or seam, and when so placed it is desirable to
avoid the raw edge on the under side. Hold the work over the left
forefinger and roll the edge toward you between the thumb and
forefinger. Place the needle under the roll on the right side, passing
out at the top of the roll. Whip about one inch and draw up the thread.
It is necessary to use a strong thread for whipping and gathering the
edge of a ruffle.
=Half-Back Stitch.=--Half-back stitching is similar to the stitching.
The long forward stitch on the under side is three times the length of
the backstitch on the upper side, and a space the length of the
backstitch is left between the stitches. See Stitching, page 63.
=Hemming.=--A hem is a fold made by twice turning over the edge of a
piece of cloth, and then sewing it down. The first fold is most
important; if that is turned even there will be little trouble with the
second. _Trim the edge of the cloth before turning the hem._ It is well
to make and use a gauge of the required width. If a wide hem is turned,
baste along the second fold or bottom of the hem first, and then at the
top. On woolen goods or material that does not crease easily it is
necessary to baste the first fold. Either bury the knot between the
folds of the hem or leave one-half inch of thread and hem over it.
A. HEMMING STITCH.
Hold the hem across the cushion of the left forefinger and point the
needle a little to the left across the middle of the thumb. Take up a
few threads of the cloth and a few threads of the fold and draw the
needle through. Take care that the stitches are regular, of equal length
and of equal distance apart. _Do not confuse the hemming stitch with the
blind stitch, or the damask hem._ Join the threads by leaving a
half-inch of the old thread and a half-inch of the new to be tucked
under the edge of the hem and be hemmed over.
Teachers will find the following suggestions helpful in teaching the
hemming stitch:
Put the needle in _almost_ straight with the hem, not at right angles to
it. Take up as little cloth on the needle as possible; bring the needle
directly through the hem, making one stitch of it instead of dividing
the stitch as in the blind stitch. Crowd the point of the needle under
the edge of the hem. Do not insert the needle a distance from the hem,
trusting to puckering it up.
B. DAMASK HEM.
Damask is a heavy fabric woven of heavy threads of one color in which
the pattern is brought out by a change in the direction of the threads,
and when new is stiff with much dressing. From the very nature of the
cloth it is impossible to hem well with the flat hem. The two folds of
the hem are turned the desired width and the hem is then turned back
flat to the cloth and creased. The edge of the hem and the crease thus
formed are overhanded together with fine even stitches. When laundered
this irons perfectly smooth and the stitches do not show on the right
side. Do not confuse this method of hemming with the flat hem, as each
has its own use.
=Overcasting.=--Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the
raw edge of cloth from right to left to keep it from raveling. The depth
of the stitch depends upon the material to be overcast, usually an
eighth of an inch is sufficient. The stitches should be twice as far
apart as they are deep. The needle is inserted from the under side of
the cloth and points a little to the left, making a slanting stitch.
Keep the spaces even and the stitches of equal length. _Always trim the
edges before overcasting._ Do not overcast a selvedge edge. Take only
one stitch at a time and be careful not to draw the edge of the cloth.
=Overhanding.=--Overhanding is done by sewing closely over two edges of
cloth from right to left. The cloth may have a folded or selvedge edge.
Careful basting is necessary to good overhanding. The needle is placed
at a right angle to the seam and should point to the chest. No knot is
used; a short end of the thread is left and overhanded under. Hold the
work horizontally along the edge of the cushion of the left forefinger
and the thumb. Do not wind the cloth over the end of the finger. The
stitches are straight on the under side and slanting on the top. Do not
draw the threads tight enough to make a hard seam and also avoid a loose
stitch that will not hold the edges together when the seam is opened. A
deep stitch is not necessary for strength and will not look well on the
right side when opened. To join the threads leave a half-inch of the old
and a half-inch of the new, lay them along the edge and overhand over
them.
=Running.=--Running is done by taking up and slipping over an equal
amount of cloth.
Running is used for seams that do not require great strength, and also
for tucking. Care should be taken not to draw the thread tight enough
to pucker. Make a small knot in the thread and conceal it on the wrong
side or in the folds of the cloth. Hold the work in the left hand
between the thumb and cushion of the forefinger; hold the needle in the
work between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. Use the wrist
motion.
Fasten the thread by passing the needle through to the wrong side and
taking two backstitches.
=Slip Stitch.=--See Blind Stitch, page 63.
=Stitching.=--Stitching is so called because it resembles machine
stitching. It is also known as backstitching. Stitching is done by
taking a stitch backward on the upper side of the cloth and a long
stitch forward on the underside, making the stitches meet on the top as
in machine stitching. Use a small knot in beginning. Hold the work over
the cushion of the left forefinger.
Fasten the threads on the wrong side by taking several backstitches, one
over the other, through one thickness of the cloth. To join threads in
stitching fasten securely on the wrong side and begin with a small knot,
bringing the thread through at the proper place for beginning the new
stitch. It is used where strength is required, or on garments too small
to go into a machine conveniently.
ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.
=Applique.=--This is an ornamentation produced by cutting a design from
one kind or color of cloth and placing it upon another. Very beautiful
effects can be obtained, with perfect harmony of color and the proper
combinations of textiles. The edge can be finished with the blanket,
couching, Kensington or chain stitch.
=Blanket Stitch.=--The blanket stitch, often erroneously called the
buttonhole stitch, is used for finishing raw edges. It is worked from
_left to right_, and the buttonhole stitch from _right to left_. The
depth of the stitch and the space between stitches may be varied and
will depend upon its use. If the thread is not fastened and joined
carefully the symmetry of the stitches will be broken. A new thread must
come up through the loop of the last stitch.
A. TO FINISH THE EDGE OF FLANNEL OR HEAVY CLOTH:
Insert the needle at a point the desired depth of the blanket stitch and
take one or two running stitches to the edge of the cloth, which will
bring the thread in position for the first stitch. Make the first
blanket stitch over these running stitches. Holding the edge of the
cloth toward you insert the needle at the same point as before and bring
the needle out over the thread and draw the loop thus made to the edge
of the cloth. Repeat for successive stitches. For a simple finish for a
flannel edge the stitches should not be placed too close together. As
far apart as the depth of the stitch is a good rule, unless greater
ornamentation is desired, when three, five or seven stitches may radiate
from one point.
B. FOR EMBROIDERING AN EDGE--STRAIGHT, SCALLOPED OR IRREGULAR.
[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.
1--The chain stitch.
2--The Kensington stitch.
3--Two styles of feather stitching.
4--The herringbone stitch.
5--Three styles of blanket stitch.]
The stitches are the same as in "A" but should be placed close enough
together so that the threads touch, making a firm edge. The embroidery
should be done before the edge is cut. It can then be finished in
various ways. The narrow edge can be turned back and whipped down on the
wrong side, or blanket stitched just over the edge with fine cotton
thread. On lingerie pieces the edge is not cut until after the first
laundering. If desired the edge can be padded before working with the
blanket stitch. The padding is done with a soft, coarse thread by
working along the edge with either the Kensington or chain stitch, or it
may be heavily "padded" by filling the space.
C. The blanket stitch is also used for working the loop and the
buttonhole bar.
D. See Couching, below.
E. See Lazy Daisy or Star Stitch, page 78.
=Chain Stitch.=--The chain stitch is used for outlining a design,
marking garments, etc. Insert the needle on the line and draw the thread
through to the knot. Insert again at the same point and take up on the
needle cloth for the desired length of stitch and draw the needle out
_over_ the thread. In placing the needle for succeeding stitches begin
inside the preceding stitch. The Half-Chain Stitch is very effective for
stems of flowers, or wherever a fine outline stitch can be used. This is
made the same as the chain stitch, except that the needle is inserted
just outside and to the right of the loop instead of in the end of the
loop.
=Couching.=--Couching is a coarse blanket stitch done over two or three
strands of silk, linen or cotton floss. It makes an attractive finish
for a hem line and also for finishing the edge in applique.
=Feather Stitch.=--The principal use of the feather stitch being that of
ornamentation requires that it shall be evenly and carefully done, or it
fails in its purpose. The feather stitch consists of alternating
stitches, or groups of stitches, slanting toward a center line. The
stitch may be varied greatly by the length of the stitch, the slant of
the stitch, and the number of stitches on each side. The tendency is to
gradually increase the length of the stitch which must be carefully
avoided, as well as a change in the slant. Do not make too long a
stitch, as there is danger of catching and breaking the thread. The
feather stitch can be used very effectively in scroll designs for the
ornamentation of sofa pillows, cushion covers, collars, underwear, etc.
A. SINGLE FEATHER STITCHING.
Work toward you, holding the cloth over the left forefinger. With a knot
in the thread insert the needle from the under side a short distance to
the right or left of the line the feather stitching is to follow (which
may be designated the center line) and draw the thread through. Place
the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and on the opposite side
take up a slanting stitch, the top of which is as far from the center
line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touching the center
line. Draw the needle out over the thread which will thus form a loop of
the thread from the first stitch. On the opposite side take up another
slanting stitch the top of which is an equal distance from the center
line and even with the bottom of the last stitch. Repeat for successive
stitches. At the end of a thread fasten by passing the needle down where
the thread last came through the cloth, thus holding the loop from the
last stitch in place. Begin a new thread by passing the needle up
through this loop.
B. DOUBLE FEATHER STITCHING.
This consists of alternating groups of two, three or more stitches
instead of single stitches. The successive stitches of each group must
be placed directly under the first stitch of the group.
=French Knot.=--Bring the needle through from the under side. With the
needle in the right hand, take hold of the thread with the left hand
about an inch from the cloth and, holding it taut, wind it several times
around the point of the needle. Return the needle to the same hole
through which it came out, and draw it back to the under side.
=Hemstitching.=--Hemstitching is a method of hemming in which a few
parallel threads are drawn, the hem turned to the line thus formed, and
hemmed down with the same stitch that separates the cross threads in
successive clusters. There are several modifications of the hemstitch.
The following methods have been selected as being the best for four
reasons: (1) The thread is thrown under the edge of the hem, and
consequently wears longer and shows less. (2) The only part of the
thread showing on the right side is the loop around the cross threads.
(3) It is readily taught to children, as it is simple, easy to remember,
and can be given as two distinct parts. (4) It is the natural way to
hold the hem.
a. _Drawing the threads_--Measuring from the edge
of the cloth, allow twice the width of the desired
hem when finished, plus the first fold, and draw
several threads, the exact number depending upon
the texture of the fabric. Draw the first thread
the entire length before starting the second, as
it is liable to break where the first one did. The
first thread being drawn, the second will come
more readily. Beginners are inclined to draw too
many threads. Unless both edges are to be
hemstitched the opening should be narrow enough so
that the threads at the top will not loosen.
b. _The Hem_--Turn the first fold of the hem and
baste to the exact line of the opening. Careful
basting is indispensable to good hemstitching, and
especially so at a corner where two hems cross.
Miter all corners of hems that are more than
one-fourth of an inch in width.
c. _The Stitch_--Hold the cloth over the left
forefinger as in ordinary hemming. Bury the knot
by inserting the needle under the edge of the hem
and drawing it through. The stitch consists of two
distinct parts, (1) forming the loop around the
cross threads, and (2) catching down to the edge
of the hem:
(1) Pointing the needle toward you and holding the
thread under the left thumb, take up on the needle
three or four of the cross threads. Draw the
needle out over the thread, thus forming the loop,
and tight enough to separate the cross threads.
(2) Insert the needle under the edge of the _hem_
only and take an ordinary hemming stitch. Repeat 1
and 2 for the next stitch.
=Herringbone Stitch.=--The herringbone or catch stitch is a cross stitch
used to finish the raw edges of flannel or heavy material. It serves
both the purpose of overcasting over a raw edge and that of hemming. It
is used on raw edged hems to avoid the ridge formed by the first fold of
a hem, on the flannel patch and for finishing the flannel seam, which
may be pressed open and both single edges herringbone stitched, or both
folded to one side and finished over the double edge. In most cases the
open seam looks better.
The stitch consists of single, alternating running stitches made first
to the right and then to the left, working from you instead of toward
you as in ordinary running. The thread being carried across from one
stitch to another, gives the appearance of a cross stitch. The stitches
on each side must be in straight rows, with the outer row just over the
edge of the flannel. The stitch should be no deeper than necessary to
prevent pulling out. A good rule for beginners is to make the top of
each stitch even with the bottom of the last stitch. _Point the needle
toward you in making the stitch, but work away from you._ The edge of
the flannel must be kept smooth. This being a cross stitch the thread of
one part of the stitch is on top and the other underneath. Be sure that
this is regular, those slanting in the same direction should be always
either to the top or to the bottom.
=Kensington Outline Stitch.=--This stitch is used to follow the line of
a design for ornamentation. To avoid the knot, when starting begin half
an inch from the end of the line to be followed, and put in three or
four running stitches, bringing the thread out at the proper place for
starting. Turn the cloth around, holding it over the left forefinger,
and work from you. Pointing the needle toward you, take a short running
stitch directly on the line keeping the thread always on the right side
of the needle, except on a line curving sharply to the left when the
thread will fall more naturally to the left side. The thread being
carried from one stitch to another gives the effect of a long diagonal
stitch on the right side and running stitches on the wrong. The length
of the stitch will be determined by the size of the thread, and the
character of the line to be covered, a curved line requiring a shorter
stitch than a straight one.
=Lazy Daisy or Star Stitch.=--This is a variation of the blanket stitch.
Insert the needle at the point desired for the center of the flower and
draw the thread through. Insert again at the same place and take up the
desired length of stitch on the needle, drawing the needle out over the
thread. Pass the needle down through the cloth at the point where it
came out, but on the other side of the loop, thus forming a second loop
at the end of the petal to hold it in place, and return the needle again
to the center of the flower. Make as many petals as desired and finish
with the French knot in the center of the flower. This stitch also makes
a pretty star, using six points and finishing without the French knot.
MISCELLANEOUS.
=Bands=.--A band is a straight piece of cloth used to finish garments at
the neck, wrist or waist. It may be sewed to a straight, gathered or
pleated edge. A band cut with the warp is stronger than one cut with the
woof.
A. HEMMED BAND.
See description of the Gathering, page 68. Gather as desired. Place the
right sides of the cloth and band together and baste just above the
gathering thread, taking care that the gathers are arranged perfectly
even. Stitch just below the gathering thread. Turn in a fourth of an
inch at the ends and along the other side of the band. Fold the band
over just covering the gathers, and baste. Hem or stitch along the edge,
overhanding the ends of the band.
B. OVERHAND BAND.
See description of Gauging, page 69. Make the band by turning in
one-fourth of an inch all around, folding and basting the edges
together. Overhand the ends of the band. The whipping of the full part
to the band will be sufficient to hold the two sides of the band
together. Turn back the raw edges of the piece to be gathered one-half
inch and gather once, twice or three times as desired. Pin to the band
and overhand, taking a stitch for each pleat of the gathers. Fasten all
bands very securely.
=Bias.=--A bias is a diagonal cut. To cut a true bias, fold over the
corner of the cloth so that the warp and woof threads are parallel. A
choice bias is a true bias, having the twill of the cloth at right
angles to the cut. Great care should be taken in measuring and cutting
bias strips to have them the same width throughout the length. Also
avoid stretching after cutting.
a. To cut a bias facing, bias binding or fold,
measure in the desired width on the true bias at a
number of points. Draw a line, crease in a fold or
baste where the facing is to be cut off.
b. To put on a bias facing, place the edge of the
strip, right sides together, even with the edge of
the cloth to be faced, baste and stitch. Turn the
facing back _exactly_ in the seam and baste along
the edge so that the facing will not show on the
right side. Turn the fold at the top, baste and
hem.
A bias facing for a curve should be cut narrow
enough so that by stretching one edge of the
facing it will lie perfectly smooth when finished.
c. To join two bias strips--Cut the ends to be
joined straight with the threads of the cloth and
place the right sides together, slipping the top
piece past the under piece the width of a seam,
but having the top edges even. Stitch where the
facings cross, open the seam and crease; or, after
trimming, a seam may be turned back at the end of
each piece and the folded edges overhanded
together.
=Cloth.=--A fabric woven of fibers, either animal or vegetable. The
edges of cloth are known as the selvedge, the threads running lengthwise
the warp, and those crossing the warp from selvedge to selvedge the
woof. The selvedge should be trimmed off, as it is hard to sew through
and draws up when wet.
=Eyelets and Loops.=--An eyelet is a small hole made and worked in a
garment to receive a cord, stud or loop of a button. Punch the hole with
a stiletto, pushing the threads apart rather than breaking them.
Overhand closely from right to left with short even stitches. A large
eyelet may be cut out and worked around with the buttonhole stitch. A
blind loop is made in place of the eye to receive a hook. Put three or
four long stitches in the same place beginning at the left, so that the
thread will be at the proper place for working the loop with the blanket
stitch.
=Joining and Fastening Thread.=--When sewing, care should be taken in
joining threads. The manner in which it is done depends upon the stitch
in use. In hemming, leave a half-inch of the old and a half-inch of the
new thread, tuck both under the hem and continue hemming over the
threads. The same plan is followed in overhanding. In the blanket
stitch, feather stitch, herringbone, chain and buttonhole stitch the new
thread must come out through the last stitch. Thoughtful attention
should be given to the fastening of threads, as careful, painstaking
work may soon be rendered useless by the loosening of the thread from
the end. After fastening securely clip off all threads that the work
may be not only strong, but neat. The usual fastening consists of
several backstitches taken in the same place.
=Mitered Corner.=--Two hems crossing at right angles may be finished
either with the square or the mitered corner. To miter a corner, turn
and crease a quarter-inch fold on both sides. Turn the second fold of
the hem the desired width on both sides and crease. Open out the corner
and place a dot where the inner creases cross. Place a second dot a
quarter of an inch from the first toward the corner. Through this second
point draw a line passing from side to side, across the corner, being
careful that the line is an equal distance from the corner on both
sides. Cut off the corner on this line. Fold both hems again on the
creases before made and pin the hem on one side in place. Make a pin
hole as near the exact point where the hems cross as possible, passing
through both hems. Fold in the bias edge on the hem that is not pinned
down, _exactly from the pin hole to the corner_, causing the edges of
the two hems to meet at an angle of forty-five degrees.
=Patterns.=--With the varied, complex and ever-changing styles of
fashion, individual pattern drafting (except for a very simple article)
is impracticable, usually resulting in commonplace garments and
involving useless time and labor. For the trifling sum of ten or fifteen
cents reliable, up-to-date patterns can be secured which are cut to
established measurements by a fashion expert. A good needlewoman
supplies herself with a good pattern and then cuts accurately, bastes
carefully, and finishes neatly, and in nearly all cases, results will be
satisfactory.
=Plackets.=--A placket is an opening made in a garment. There are
several ways of finishing an opening, but in all cases, except when the
gusset is used, the underside should extend some distance under the top
to prevent gaping.
A. A PLACKET WITH A CONTINUOUS BINDING.
This is the placket used on children's drawers, night shirts, under
garments, etc.
Cut the opening the desired length. Cut the facing with the warp a
little more than twice the length of the opening and twice the desired
width when finished, plus one-fourth inch, or more, allowed for seams.
The following are the successive steps for making the placket:
a. Fold the cloth, right sides together, in a line
with the opening.
b. Double the facing across the warp, through the
center, wrong sides together.
c. Slip this between the folds of the cloth so
that the fold of the facing will just come to the
end of the opening. This will bring the right side
of facing to the right side of the cloth.
d. Baste the facing to the cloth down one side and
up the other side of the opening.
e. Stitch with an eighth of an inch seam, which
will render unavoidable a small pleat at the end
of the opening the width of the seam.
f. Crease the facing back over the opening exactly
in the seam.
g. Turn an eighth of an inch fold the length of
the facing down the other side.
h. Fold this over the seam to the stitching,
baste, and hem.
i. At the top of the opening fold the right-hand
facing back and stitch along the edge to hold in
place.
B. A PLACKET WITH AN EXTENSION HEM ON ONE SIDE AND A FLAT FACING ON THE
OTHER.
This is the placket used on dress skirts, petticoats and carefully
tailored garments.
Follow the directions for the successive steps for making Placket A
through "g," as the two plackets are the same to this point.
The left side of the facing will consist of an extension hem the same as
in Placket A, the only difference in the plackets being the manner of
finishing the right side or top facing.
h. After turning the fold the length of the
facing, place the edge of this fold to the
stitching on the other side of the seam, and
crease the facing through the center the long way,
as in Placket A.
i. As the right side is to be hemmed down as a
facing, it is desirable to cut out one thickness
of the cloth, leaving, of course, the quarter-inch
inside the long crease, and also at the cross
fold, at the end of the opening as the first fold
on the facing.
j. Baste this facing flat to the cloth, and hem.
k. Stitch once across the _top facing only_, just
at the bottom end of the opening.
C. A FINISH FOR A SHIRT SLEEVE OR NIGHTGOWN OPENING.
As this consists of an extra piece which extends over the opening, it is
necessary to allow for this in cutting, so that the middle of this piece
will come in the center when finished. When cutting this opening in a
nightgown, cut to the right of the center one-half the width the facing
is to be when finished. The following are the successive steps for
making the nightgown opening:
a. Cut the opening the desired length. Cut the
facing in two pieces, one a little more than twice
the length of the opening, and the other the
length of the opening plus the width of the
facing, both pieces to be the desired width plus
the allowance for seams. (These two pieces will be
designated the long and the short facings.)
b. Place the short facing to the right-hand side
of the opening, right sides of cloth together and
even at the top. Pin in place.
c. Place the long facing to the back of this same
side with the right side of facing to the wrong
side of the cloth, thus having the three
thicknesses of cloth together. Pin in place and
baste a quarter of an inch from the edge. Stitch
an eighth of an inch seam.
d. The long facing is a continuous facing, the
same as in Plackets A and B. Baste up the other
side and stitch, the seam being on the right side
of the cloth.
e. Crease both facings open in the seams. Turn in
a fold on the other side of the short facing and
turn the end to a square point.
f. Turn a fold the length of the long facing so
that it matches the width of the short piece.
g. Baste the two facings together and the flat
facing to the cloth.
h. Stitch around the short facing and twice across
it at the end of the opening. Stitch or hem the
under side of the flat facing.
D. THE GUSSET.
This method of finishing an opening is sometimes used on drawers and
night-shirts instead of Placket A. The following are the successive
steps for making the gusset:
a. Cut the opening the desired length.
b. Hem both sides with a very narrow hem running
to a point at the end of the opening.
c. Cut a piece of cloth one and one-half inches
square. On this square fold down one corner
three-fourths of an inch on the sides and cut it
off. Turn a fold one-eighth of an inch all around
this piece. Place the corner which is opposite the
diagonal cut to the middle of this cut and crease.
d. To sew the gusset in, place the apex of the
triangle to the end of the opening and overhand on
the wrong side to the crease before made.
e. Fold over the remaining part to the wrong side,
baste and hem. Stitch along the fold of the gusset
to strengthen it.
[Illustration: FORMATION OF GUSSET.]
=Putting in Sleeves.=--After trimming the arm hole, measure one inch
back from the shoulder seam and mark with a pin. Fold the garment at the
arm hole with this pin at the top of the fold and place another directly
opposite it. Call this point A. Remove the first pin to avoid confusion.
For a sleeve for an adult, measure from the shoulder seam five inches on
the front and mark with a pin. Call this point B. Measure from the
shoulder seam three inches on the back and mark with a pin. Call this
point C. With the sleeve right side out place the under seam of the
sleeve at A and pin together at this point. The gathers are to come at
the top of the sleeve between B and C. For misses and children the
measurements should be decreased proportionately. Measure the sleeve on
the arm-hole and cut small notches at B and C. Gather the sleeve between
these notches one-fourth of an inch from the edge, with a strong thread
a little longer than the distance to be gathered. Put in a second
gathering one-eighth of an inch from the first. Put in place at points A
B and C; draw up the gathering threads to the proper length and fasten
by winding around a pin. Arrange the gathers between B and C, pushing
them a little closer together in front of the shoulder seam. Hold the
inside of the sleeve next to you and, beginning at B, baste first around
the plain part, then the gathered part. Stitch inside the basting and
bind the seam.
=Seams.=--A seam is formed by sewing together two pieces of cloth. There
are several different methods of joining them. Those known as the raw
seams may be joined by stitching, half-back stitching, overhanding or
the combination stitch. The closed or finished seams are known as the
French Fell, French Seam, Hemmed Seam, Flannel Seam and the Bound Seam.
No garment should be finished with a raw seam, which is only properly
used when covered with a lining, or as the first step in one of the
finished seams.
A. FRENCH FELL.
Place the two pieces to be joined, right sides together, edges even and
baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge. Sew with the combination
stitch (or machine stitching) three-eighths of an inch from the edge.
Trim three-sixteenths of an inch from the _under_ side of the seam and
crease the _upper_ side of the seam over this. (In hand sewing there is
a long stitch on the under side. Be sure to trim from this side so that
the short stitch comes on the top.) On the right side of the garment
crease carefully and baste along the edge of the seam to prevent the
fullness which beginners are so liable to have over the French Fell on
the right side. Turn to the wrong side, baste the seam flat to the
cloth, and hem.
B. FRENCH SEAM.
Place together the wrong sides of the pieces to be joined, and baste
one-fourth of an inch from the edge. With the running stitch sew
one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Carefully trim off the ravelings,
fold the right sides together and crease exactly in the seam, baste and
stitch the seam, taking care that no ravelings can be seen and that the
seam is perfectly smooth on the right side.
C. HEMMED SEAM:
This is used for joining thin material, lace, etc. On one piece fold an
eighth of an inch seam (or more, if necessary) to the right side of the
cloth, and on the other piece fold an eighth of an inch seam to the
wrong side. Place the right sides of the two pieces together with the
raw edge of one piece under and to the folded edge of the other. Baste
this fold down over the raw edge sewing through the three thicknesses of
cloth. Fold over in the crease and baste through the four thicknesses.
Stitch, or hem by hand, along the edge of the seam on both sides of the
cloth.
D. FLANNEL SEAM:
The flannel seam is used on material so thick that it is necessary to
finish over a raw edge, instead of with a seam involving several
thicknesses of cloth. Place together the right sides of the two pieces
to be joined and baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Stitch
one-fourth of an inch from the edge and remove the bastings. Trim the
seams smooth, open and baste flat to the cloth. Herringbone stitch over
the raw edge of both sides of the seam. One side of the herringbone
stitch should come just over the raw edge of the flannel. The edges must
be kept smooth, and unless the flannel ravels easily, the herringbone
stitch should be not over one-eighth of an inch deep and close together.
This stitch is used also on the flannel patch.
E. BOUND SEAM:
Seams may be bound with the two parts of the seam together, or they may
be pressed open and bound separately. This may be done with a bias
strip, binding ribbon or tape.
a. _Binding the entire seam_--Place together the
two right sides of the pieces to be joined and
baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Place
the bias binding (three-fourths of an inch wide)
with the wrong side of the cloth up and the edge
of the binding one-eighth of an inch from the edge
of the seam, and baste in place. Stitch through
the three thicknesses of cloth a quarter of an
inch from the edge. Turn in one-eighth of an inch
on the other side of the binding and hem it down
just above the stitching on the other side of the
seam. This method of binding is used on the
arm-holes of garments or wherever it is not
feasible to open the seam and bind separately.
b. _The Open Bound Seam_--Prepare the seam as
above without the bias binding. Trim and press the
seam open. Double the binding ribbon through the
center and crease. Place the raw edge of the seam
to the fold of the ribbon and run along the edge,
catching through to the under fold. Tape may be
used for binding, but must be basted on first and
hemmed down.
=Sewing on Buttons.=--There are two important requirements for sewing on
buttons--to put in sufficient thread, and to fasten this thread securely
that it may not loosen from the end. In sewing flat buttons on coats,
jackets, etc., place a small button on the under side and sew through it
to avoid having the stitches show on the under side.
a. _The Loop or Shank Button_--Place the button in
position with the loop at right angles to the edge
of the cloth. Hold the button with the left hand
and overhand the loop to the cloth. Pass the
thread to the under side and fasten.
b. _Four-Hole Button_--In sewing on flat buttons
insert the needle from the right side and back in
order to hide the knot under the button. Place the
button in position and hold a pin across the
button for the purpose of lengthening the
stitches. Put in five or six stitches diagonally
across the button and over the pin. Change the
position of the pin and repeat. Slip the pin out,
pass the needle through the cloth only, and wind
the thread around the threads between the button
and the cloth. Pass the needle through the cloth
and fasten securely.
c. _Two-Hole Button_--Place the button so that the
stitches will come at right angles to the edge of
the cloth, with the pin across the button. Proceed
as with the four-hole button.
=Sewing on Hooks and Eyes.=--In sewing hooks and eyes on a garment it is
best, where practicable, to cover the ends with the lining of the
garment or with a piece of tape. In sewing them on the edge of a hem or
facing turn the edge of the hem back over the ends of the hooks and eyes
and hem it down. Where they are to be covered they should be strongly
overhanded to the garment first. When covering is not feasible place the
hook or eye in position and buttonhole around the top, beginning at the
right-hand side and inserting the needle under and up through the hole,
throwing the thread around the needle as in the buttonhole stitch. The
hook should be sewed down at the point before breaking the thread. The
worked loop is often used in place of the metal eye. For this purpose
cut a stiff pointed piece of cardboard the length of the desired loop
and work the loop over this, when the cardboard can be easily slipped
out. The loop is worked from left to right with the blanket stitch the
same as the bar of the buttonhole.
=Sewing on Lace.=--When sewing lace to an edge always hold the lace next
to you. Lace may be put on straight or gathered. At the top of most
laces will be found a coarse thread woven into the lace for the purpose
of gathering. Before drawing this up divide the lace and the edge upon
which it is to be placed into halves, quarters or eighths, depending
upon the length, and pin, with right sides together, at points of
division. Then draw up the thread, arrange the gathers even, and
overhand to the edge with fine even stitches. If the gathering thread is
not in the lace, put it in and proceed as above. If the lace is to be
put on plain hold it loosely to the edge and overhand.
A. SEWING LACE AROUND A CORNER:
When sewing the lace on plain to round a corner, overhand to a point as
far from the corner as the width of the lace. (This point may be
designated A, and a point an equal distance from the corner on the other
side B.) From A measure on the lace twice its width and pin at the
corner. Allow the same fullness on the other side and pin at B. Continue
overhanding from B, leaving the corner until later, when the gathering
thread will be put in, gathers arranged and the lace overhanded to the
edge. If the lace is wide baste it in place at the corners before
overhanding.
When sewing gathered lace to an edge, to round a corner proceed as above
with this exception: The same fullness must be allowed on the corner
that is allowed on the straight edge, in addition to that required to
carry the lace around the corner without drawing. For example: If
one-half the length of the lace is allowed for fullness on the straight
edge, at the corner allow two and one-half times the width of the lace
instead of twice its width.
B. SEWING TWO ENDS OF LACE TOGETHER:
The manner of sewing two ends of lace together will depend upon the kind
of lace to be joined, the pattern, strength, etc. The first aim to be
considered is to have the joining strong enough so that it will not pull
apart. The second is to join it so that it will show as little as
possible. Several methods are suggested:
a. Lace made up of units can be easily joined by
overhanding these units together.
b. If the pattern permits, cut the lace with the
pattern, lay one edge over the other and
buttonhole over each raw edge with fine thread.
c. Sew the lace right sides together, in a narrow
seam. Lay the seam flat and buttonhole over the
raw edge and at the same time down to the lace.
d. Turn a narrow fold on one piece to the right
side and on the other piece to the wrong side,
slip one under the other and hem down the two
edges as in the hemmed seam.
=Tucking.=--Crease the first tuck where desired. For the second tuck
measure from the first and allow twice the width of the tuck plus the
desired space between. Repeat for the successive tucks.
PUTTING A RUFFLE INTO A HEM-TUCK.
This makes an excellent finish for the bottom of underskirts, petticoats
and drawers. Measure up from the bottom twice the width of the desired
hem plus one-fourth of an inch for the seam and crease for a tuck.
Stitch the tuck. This will leave the raw edge extending one-fourth of an
inch below the edge of the tuck. Place the ruffle along this edge, wrong
sides together, and baste in a quarter-inch seam. Baste the tuck over
the seam and stitch along the edge.