COURSE OF INSTRUCTION.
FIFTH YEAR--SEVENTH GRADE.
EQUIPMENT.
Sewing box.
Pin cushion--30 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece--Unbleached muslin 12" x 9".
ORDER OF EXERCISES.
Prepare Thread Cards--Cardboard 4" x 4", designed and cut for four kinds
of thread.
Exercise No. 41--A Trial Piece for Finishing the Bottom of Drawers.
Exercise No. 42--An Underwaist or Corset Cover.
Exercise No. 43--Collars, Jabots, Bows, etc.--Christmas Piece.[32]
Exercise No. 44--A Study of Home Furnishing, Decoration and Care.[33]
Exercise No. 45--Twist Buttonholes.
Exercise No. 46--A Pair of Drawers.
Exercise No. 47--Cloth Darning.
Exercise No. 48--Textile Fibers and Fabrics--Wool.
FOOTNOTES:
[32] See Electives, page 61.
[33] See Electives, page 61.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.
Review Divisions of the Foot and Yard Measure.
EXERCISE NO. 41--A TRIAL PIECE FOR FINISHING THE BOTTOM OF A PAIR OF
DRAWERS.
_Materials:_ India linen 8" x 8", ruffle 12" woof, 2" warp; white thread
No. 70; needle No. 8.
[Illustration: A TRIAL PIECE, GIVING PRACTICE ON THE HEMMED SEAM,
TUCKING, AND PUTTING A RUFFLE INTO A HEM-TUCK.]
Hemmed Seam: One inch and a quarter from the top crease a fold with the
warp. Cut on this crease.
See description of the Hemmed Seam, page 86.
Putting a ruffle into a hem-tuck and tucking: Measure up from the bottom
two and one-fourth inches--or twice the width of the hem-tuck plus
one-fourth inch for the seam--and crease with the warp, across the
piece. Stitch, or run by hand an inch tuck, taking care to measure and
make perfectly even. Measure up three-eighths of an inch from this
stitching and crease for another tuck. Stitch, or run by hand an eighth
of an inch tuck. Measure up three-eighths of an inch for another tuck.
Put in a cluster of three tucks. Hem the ruffle with an eighth of an
inch hem, gather and stroke the gathers.
See description of gathering and sewing a ruffle to a straight edge,
page 69.
Place the wrong sides of the cloth and ruffle together and baste to the
edge extending below the hem-tuck, bringing the seam exactly to the edge
of the tuck. Baste and stitch the edge of the hem-tuck over the seam of
the ruffle.
EXERCISE NO. 42--AN UNDERWAIST OR CORSET COVER.
_Materials:_ Pupils may furnish their own materials for an underwaist
such as they wear. This may be of any style. Patterns can be secured
from the mothers. If there is any difficulty in securing supplies from
the home, a child's waist on a small scale may be substituted.
THE SMALL WAIST.
_Materials:_ Bleached muslin 24" woof by 10" warp, bias facings 54" by
1"; white thread No. 70; needle No. 8.
See the draft for the pattern of the small underwaist, page 53.
Patterns: Multiply all dimensions by four. Each girl can draft her
pattern from the teacher's dictation, or one pattern can be drafted
before the lesson and the members of the class cut their patterns from
this one. Insist that the patterns be exact. Have the patterns pinned
on, and submitted for inspection before the cutting is done, to avoid
blunders and waste of material. Cut the front double. One inch has been
allowed for the hem on the backs.
[Illustration: DRAFT FOR PATTERN OF UNDERWAIST.
_This draft can be used for an underwaist of any size. Determine the
length of the under arm seam in the garment required and divide this by
1-1/4. Multiply all dimensions by this quotient. As a small fraction
complicates the process and makes very little difference, use the whole
number which is nearest the quotient obtained. The slight alterations
necessary can be made in the fitting._]
[Illustration: FRONT OF CORSET COVER AND BACK OF GIRL'S UNDERWAIST.]
Baste, half-back stitch and fell the seams. Turn the hems at the back,
baste and hem. See description of the Bias, page 79. Put the bias
facing on the bottom first, then around the neck, and last around the
armholes. Teach the joining of the bias facing by having the bottom
facing in two pieces and then insist that the ends of the armhole facing
be joined in the same way. Overhand neatly the ends of the bottom and
neck facings. Make four quarter-inch buttonholes and sew on the buttons.
EXERCISE NO. 43--COLLARS, JABOTS, BOWS, ETC.--CHRISTMAS PIECE.[34]
The styles of dressing the neck vary greatly from season to season. This
is also modified by the taste of individuals. Pupils may furnish their
own material for any kind of collar desired, after thoughtful
consideration of the prevailing styles. It is possible to make a great
variety of useful and dainty articles at a trifling expense which will
be most acceptable Christmas gifts. If so intended, lead the pupils to
study the appropriateness of their gifts. Those pupils who find it
difficult to furnish their own material may substitute a collar made
from an imitation of linen which will afford the same experience in
making, but will not be quite as desirable an article to wear.
_Materials:_ Imitation linen 15" woof, 8" warp. This amount will cut
either the Dutch collar by piecing the band, or the ordinary stiff
collar. The patterns for both, or the collars from which patterns can be
cut, can be brought from home by some member of the class. Be absolutely
sure of the size before cutting out the collar, as a quarter of an inch
will make a difference in the comfort and fit. It is an excellent plan
to have collars of different sizes--12, 12-1/2, 13, 13-1/2--in the
class, try them on, and mark the buttonholes on the bands from the right
sized collars. The "Dutch" collar can be made with a plain hem and
finished with the fine featherstitching or any of the ornamental
stitches, or it can be embroidered in a simple pattern with the eyelet
embroidery. This gives an excellent opportunity for an original design,
or if so desired a pattern can be transferred by the use of the carbon
paper. The stiff collar, if made double, is first sewed up on the wrong
side and then turned and stitched along the edge on the right. It is
then put into the double band, which has been made in the same way. If
so desired the collar can be made of a single embroidered piece with the
worked edge, or finished with the hemstitched edge and ornamented with
fancy stitches.
EXERCISE NO. 44--A STUDY OF HOME FURNISHING, DECORATION AND CARE.[35]
The success of this exercise will depend entirely upon the interest and
ingenuity of the teacher.
See "Home Furnishing, Decoration and Care," page 112.
EXERCISE NO. 45--TWIST BUTTONHOLES.
_Materials:_ French flannel 3-1/2" warp by 6-1/2" woof; twist; sewing
silk; needle No. 7 and No. 8.
See description of the Buttonhole, page 63.
Pupils will furnish their own twist and flannel for the practice work.
It is not necessary that these should match in color. Double the flannel
through the center the long way, baste along the folded edge and around
the piece. Overcast the raw edges. Begin one-half inch from the top and
make the buttonholes three-fourths of an inch long and three-fourths of
an inch apart. Strand, overcast and finish with the bar.
EXERCISE NO. 46--A PAIR OF DRAWERS.
_Materials:_ Pupils may furnish their own materials for a full-sized
garment. This may be made in any style. Patterns can be secured from the
mothers or exchanged among the members of the class, or a pattern may be
drafted from the diagram. Secure the pattern first and have the girls
measure it to determine the amount of material needed. If there is any
difficulty in securing supplies from the home, a pair of child's drawers
on a smaller scale may be substituted. The directions for making the
small drawers will assist in making the full-sized garment.
THE SMALL DRAWERS.
_Materials:_ Bleached muslin 36" woof, 11" warp; ruffling, India linen
36" woof, 1-1/2" warp; white thread No. 70; needle No. 8.
[Illustration: DRAFT FOR A PATTERN OF A PAIR OF DRAWERS.
_This draft can be used for a pattern of any size. Determine the length
at the side of the garment required, and divide this by 2-1/2 and
multiply all dimensions by this figure. As a small fraction complicates
the process and will make very little difference in this garment, use
the whole number which is nearest the quotient obtained. Fold a large
piece of paper, the fold of which will represent the fold at the side of
the drawers. Draw the diagram enlarged upon one side of this. The lines
for both the front and back are the same, except the two inside lines at
the top, which will cut the front a little smaller than the back. It is
for this reason that it is drawn on the double paper._]
Patterns: See the draft for the drawers pattern, page 57. Multiply the
dimensions by four. Each girl can draft a pattern from the teacher's
dictation, or one pattern can be drafted and cut before class time, and
the members of the class cut their patterns from this one.
A strip of muslin thirty-six inches by eleven inches will cut the
drawers by careful management. The lesson in economy and the experience
of cutting from a close pattern is a valuable one for the girls, as it
is a problem which will confront them many times in life. Fold the cloth
the short way through the center, and pin the selvedge edges together.
Allow three and one-half inches from the fold for the placket facings
and bands, thus keeping the extra cloth in one large piece. Pin the
pattern in position, and cut the two lengths, at the same time taking
care that the lengthwise fold of the pattern is straight with the warp
threads. If the pattern does not allow for hem and tucks, provide the
extra length when cutting. The right sides are now together; mark them
before separating, and avoid the chance of making both pieces for the
same leg, a mistake easily made by more experienced needlewomen.
Finish the bottom of the drawer legs with one-eighth inch tucks,
one-half inch hem-tuck and the ruffle as in Exercise No. 41. One-half
inch in front of the side fold cut an opening, with the warp, four
inches in length. This may be made in both legs or in the right one
only, and may be finished with the gusset, placket A or placket B,
keeping in mind that the back buttons over the front. Finish all seams
with the French seam except where the ends of the ruffle are joined with
the hemmed seam. Gather the fullness at the top on both sides of the
front and the back seams, and draw up to the desired length of band. If
two openings have been cut at the sides make the back band one inch
longer than the front. Place buttons and make buttonholes where desired.
EXERCISE NO. 47--CLOTH DARNING.
_Materials:_ Albatros 4" x 5"; sewing silk; needle No. 8; beeswax.
See description of Cloth Darning, page 68.
Four holes, cut as follows, are to be darned on this piece of cloth:
No. 1. In the lower left hand corner one inch from the bottom and the
side, cut one inch straight with the warp. Darn with split sewing silk
on the wrong side.
No. 2. In the upper left hand corner, one inch from the top and side,
cut one inch with the warp and one inch with the woof. This will serve
for a three-cornered tear. Darn on the right side with ravelings. Spread
the stitches at the corner like the sticks of a fan.
No. 3. In the lower right-hand corner, one inch from the bottom and the
side cut one inch on the bias. Darn with split sewing silk on the wrong
side.
No. 4. In the upper right-hand corner, one inch from the top and the
side cut one inch across the warp. This will serve for a worn place in
the cloth. Place the patch under it and baste around the edge. Darn with
ravelings on the right side. Trim the edges of the patch smooth and
herringbone stitch with ravelings around it.
Finish the edge of the piece with the blanket stitch.
Follow this exercise with the repairing of some article brought from
home that will give a practical experience in cloth darning. Should
there be any difficulty in securing these articles there are plenty of
homes that will supply enough for the entire class. _This must be done
under the teacher's supervision._
EXERCISE NO. 48--TEXTILE FIBERS AND FABRICS--WOOL.
Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 95, will be found
subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography,
language and history work. The seventh grade subject is Wool.
[Illustration: A SET OF UNDERWEAR.
EXERCISES 39, 42, 46, AND AN ELECTIVE.]
ELECTIVES.
[34] An exercise in paper and cardboard construction, adapted to the
skill of the class, may be substituted for the Christmas Exercise. See
chapter on "Paper and Cardboard Construction," page 101.
[35] In connection with the study of home furnishing and decoration an
exercise in passepartout or the making of lamp shades would be
excellent.