CHAPTER II

THE GERMANS NEARING PARIS

_Saturday, August 29th._ Paris feels the oppression of war more and

more each day. There have been so many "morts pour la patrie" that

everywhere there are families who have been stricken by the loss of a

member. This leaven of sorrow gives to the population as a whole a

somber tone.

Perfectly frightful stories of German barbarities are circulating.

They are almost unbelievable, but seem to have some confirmation.

Many of the wounded Frenchmen when returning from the front bring

trophies of battle, such as German swords, bayonets, and buttons. The

most prized possession of all is the German spiked helmet. Barring

only the scalp of the American Indian, a more significant trophy could

not be imagined. It is not only significant but gorgeously handsome.

Moreover, it is everywhere on earth accepted as the symbol of the

Prussian militarism.

Today Mr. Herrick sent an Attaché with a fast automobile out toward

Compiègne, which is thirty-eight miles from the Porte St. Denis. The

man was not permitted to approach the town, but from hills on this

side he could hear the constant rumble of heavy guns. He returned to

Paris giving it as his opinion that a battle was being fought at

Compiègne. This, however, is so improbable that he can find no one to

credit his report. The idea is really too preposterous! The truth

might be that manoeuvres of the French army were in progress, or

that the forts around Paris were practising. We have been warned that

this might occur. The war was not declared four weeks ago; how then

would it be possible for the Germans already to be at Compiègne?

Before they could reach a point so near Paris they must first reduce

the triple line of the French frontier fortifications, which are the

product of more than forty years of study and labor and form a greater

barrier than any ocean. Even were these reduced, the Germans would

have to beat back the French active army numbering one and a half

million men. Compiègne is no farther from Paris than Peekskill is from

New York.

* * * * *

_Sunday, August 30th._ The rumors of evil which yesterday all refused

to believe as absolutely incredible are today accepted as facts. No

bad news has yet appeared in print, the censor having suppressed even

the slightest hint of misfortune. This lack of any definite

information has had a disintegrating effect upon the public morale.

Since all official news is denied them, the people add to their

previous personal anxiety a ghastly terror of the unknown, multiplied

and intensified as it manifests itself in the masses, already in a

high state of excitement.[2]

[Footnote 2: I have been informed by American officials on duty in

Berlin that they have never observed any misstatement of fact, or any

essential omission in the _communiqués_ of the German Government.

This, during my brief visits within the borders of the Empire, was

certainly borne out by my own experience. Defeats are announced as

automatically as victories. An illustration of the advantageous effect

of this procedure upon public morale and of the disadvantageous effect

of the opposite occurred after the Battle of the Marne. The French,

who should logically have gained the greatest encouragement, had so

learned to distrust their official _communiqués_, that they gained no

advantage of this kind whatsoever, while the Germans, who ought to

have received no moral stimulus from so material a disaster, underwent

a fresh _accroissement_ of their patriotic determination as a result

of the frank announcement that the war was no longer going "according

to specifications."]

Paris knows with a conviction that nothing can alter that the French

armies have met defeat at all points along the line. They do not need

dates, or names, or numbers; the one terrible fact that the Germans

are again nearing the gates of Paris stands out with greater intensity

because all details are withheld.

The Bank of Paris has begun to move. I felt it was an historically

memorable day when I stood this morning before its great doors and

watched the nervous, hurrying messengers endlessly streaming in and

out as they loaded a row of trucks with France's money bags. The

bearers looked for all the world like a stream of ants carrying their

larvæ to safety when an ant-hill is broken open.

It is commonly reported that the French Government is planning to flee

from Paris. If that actually occurs the papers will doubtless announce

it as a "strategic retreat." The members of the various Embassies are

becoming frightfully nervous and most of them will probably leave at

the same time.

At the American _Chancellerie_ all goes on quite as usual, partly

because we are so busy that there is no time to worry, but principally

because Mr. Herrick is so calm and confident that he sets all the

other members a compelling example.

Early this afternoon it was reported at the Embassy that a German

aëroplane had flown over Paris and had dropped several bombs, one of

which had fallen near the St. Lazare Hospital. Mr. Herrick sent me out

to investigate. I found that there had really been an aëroplane and

that it had thrown three bombs, all of which had exploded. Many

windows had been broken and one old woman had been killed. Few people,

however, had actually seen the aëroplane.

The censor allowed details of the affair to be published in the

evening papers, including what purported to be a translation of a note

dropped by the German, saying: "The German army is at the gates of

Paris. Nothing remains for you but to surrender.--Lieutenant von

Heidssen." This is an example of the inexplicable working of the

censorship. The people tonight all seemed to believe that the German's

note is authentic.

The papers recently published an account of the arrival at a Paris

hospital of a wounded Turco who had brought as trophy a German spiked

helmet. The peculiar element reported was that the head was still in

the helmet. I doubt the truth of this story. It is, however, another

example of the extraordinary workings of the censor's mind. He

suppresses every vestige of harmless war news on the plea that it

might "assist the enemy," and then permits the publication of such a

hate-breeding tale as this.

* * * * *

_Monday, August 31st._ Another German aëroplane flew over the city

today and again threw bombs. It arrived at six in the evening. The

psychological effect on Paris has been incalculable. Yesterday's Taube

went virtually unobserved; it did not seem to need explanation, and

its visit could be interpreted as a freakish exploit--the solitary one

of its kind. The attack of another Taube today put an entirely

different face upon the matter. Nothing better could have been

calculated to disquiet the French. They have always considered

themselves kings of the air and have felt that, whatever else might be

found wanting, at least the French aviators would always rule that

element. Today every soul in Paris saw the Taube. Until now anything

about the Germans' approach has been rumor and hearsay, but now comes

this plain fact for all the world to see; and what more convincing or

spectacular evidence of their nearness could be set before the

Parisians than a German aëroplane flying over their heads? I think it

will prove the spark to light one of the historical explosions of the

French people, and that this will probably show itself in extreme

panic conditions.

* * * * *

_Tuesday, September 1st._ Panic conditions of the most pronounced

order exist today. Everyone seems possessed with the single idea of

escaping from Paris. A million people must be madly trying to leave at

the present moment. There are runs on all the banks. The streets are

crowded with hurrying people whose faces wear expressions of nervous

fright. The railroad stations are packed with tightly jammed mobs in

which people and luggage form one inextricable, suffocating, hopeless

jumble.

Cabs are nearly unobtainable. When anyone is seen to alight from a

vehicle, a flock of men and women instantly gather round it like

vultures and there stand poised to see if the cabby is to be paid off.

If the "fare" makes a motion toward his pocket, the mob piles into the

carriage, swearing and scrambling. The matter is then arbitrated by

the driver who accepts as client the one who offers the largest

_pourboire_. In the Rue Condorcet today I saw such a dispute settled

with a twenty-franc tip. One of the defeated candidates was a poor

dejected woman who had fought like a tigress for the cab and had been

ejected with considerable force. She now wept copiously and

hopelessly. She explained that she had her baggage and three children

to take to the station and that she had been endlessly trying to get a

vehicle since the night before, and announced that this was the nine

hundredth vehicle "qu'on m'a volé." For one in her emergency I

considered this an excusable exaggeration, so I lent her my _cocher_,

Paul, and hurriedly went on foot to the Embassy. My faithful Paul does

not desert me, even now when the streets run gold for _cochers_. Last

evening an auto carried a family to Tours, returning this morning. For

this it received 1500 francs. Thousands upon thousands of refugees

from the north are fleeing across Paris by any and every means of

transportation left in the city.

* * * * *

Three days ago we doubted the possibility of a battle as near as

Compiègne. Today already we feel it quite possible that the Germans

will capture Paris, and that within a few days. It is almost certain

that our Embassy will have a tremendous part to play in the capture,

for Mr. Herrick will stay in Paris, come what may, unless Washington

orders him to leave. It is probable that France will turn over to him

her interests in Paris--one might almost say, the city itself.

Another Taube came today and left the usual consignment of three

bombs. The aviator arrived promptly at six, just as he did yesterday.

I was amused to see two French policemen rush out of a café and fire

their revolvers at the so-far-away speck.

* * * * *

_Wednesday, September 2d._ The German bomb-dropping aëroplane arrives

each day as regularly as sunset. It is considerate of him to come

always at the same hour--six o'clock. One knows when to expect him and

is thus able to be promptly on hand to watch the show. It was

especially thrilling today. We all stood in the Rue Chaillot in front

of the _Chancellerie_, and being on the side of the Trocadéro Hill we

enjoyed a good view off over the city. The Taube passed almost

directly over our heads on its way to attack the Tour Eiffel; it flew

at an altitude of about 5000 feet and looked very like a bug crawling

across the sky. With our glasses we could see the German aviator

looking down at us, and could distinguish on the under side of each

wing the black Maltese cross which all German aëroplanes carry as

"uniform."

Off to the east a French machine was slowly mounting above the

housetops to give battle. The German sailed over the Tour Eiffel and

dropped a bomb. We caught sight of it, a tiny speck floating

downwards. After waiting what seemed an unreasonably long time, we

heard the faint, muffled "boom" of its explosion. All this time, guns

in various parts of the city were shooting at the aëroplane; it

sounded like firecrackers on the Fourth of July. There are

anti-aircraft guns on the different platforms of the Tour Eiffel.

These seemed to be rapid-fire guns which spouted ten shots in about

five seconds, and then, after taking a long breath, spouted another

ten shots, and so on. The din was extraordinary, but the German

aëroplane went serenely on as if utterly unconscious of the thousands

of shots of which it was the target.

After throwing his first bomb near the Tour Eiffel, the German

described a graceful, sweeping curve off over the Ecole Militaire, and

threw another bomb which struck the roof of a house in the Avenue

Bosquet. He then turned northward and sailed off in triumph over

Montmartre, apparently unscathed. The French machine had meanwhile

reached about half the altitude at which the German was flying. The

whole affair was extremely dramatic. All Paris stood open-mouthed in

the streets, utterly oblivious to everything but the machine which was

creeping across the sky.

The French already take their daily Taube as much as a matter of

course as their daily café. They cannot help exclaiming in admiration

"quel aplomb!" It is now the fourth day that a German aëroplane has

passed over the French armies, eluded the French machines, and braved

a murderous fire from the waiting guns of Paris.

The incidents have been marked by singularly ineffective shooting on

both sides. The aëroplanes have thrown a dozen bombs; they have broken

windows and roof slates and have killed one old woman. But this has

been, as far as I know, the only casualty. On the other hand, the

Taubes likewise have escaped unwrecked, in spite of the fact that

enough ammunition has been expended against them to have smashed all

the aëroplanes in the world. The psychological effect on the Parisians

has been immense.

For two weeks now, I have been entirely ready to start on my first

tour of the detention camps. The need has seemed so pressing that I

have been prepared to start immediately on the receipt of permission

from the Minister of Foreign Affairs. Mr. Herrick rightly refuses to

allow me to start without this permission. The reason for the delay

seems to be that France insists that she will accord us only those

privileges with regard to her German prisoners that the German

government gives to the Spanish Embassy in Berlin with regard to the

French prisoners in Germany. The hitch is that each takes exactly the

same ground, so neither side does anything definite.

Such is European "diplomacy." The onus of the prisoners' condition

cannot be said to rest upon our shoulders. Mr. Herrick or Mr. Bliss

has made _démarches_ in the matter almost every day.

Diplomacy is a trade which I find extremely hard to learn. Its

principal rule seems to be never to do anything that you can possibly

avoid. Such principles naturally give rise to a great deal of futile

routine. When a diplomat must act, he methodically follows a

well-trodden and known-to-be-safe path; when he is forced to

take a new direction he invariably makes some superior take the

responsibility. I know that on one occasion a trivial question was

asked of a Jäger at the door of a European _Chancellerie_; it was

passed through eight people of increasing rank and finally reached the

ruler of a great nation. I wonder if the applicant was kept waiting at

the door by the Jäger during the months necessary for the working out

of the process.

The Government of France has announced, officially, that it will

depart from Paris tonight and that Bordeaux is to be the new capital.

In point of fact, many officials have already gone, while those who

still remain are to leave tonight on a series of diplomatic trains.

The Embassies of England and Russia and the Legation of Belgium will

go also. There is a rumor that several of the neutral ambassadors and

consuls will flee, but this I cannot credit. They could have no

sufficient excuse for deserting Paris so precipitately, and if they

did they would appear arrant cowards. Mr. Herrick is sending Captain

Pope, one of the military Attachés, and Mr. Sussdorf, the third

secretary, to Bordeaux, in order that we may have some official

representation with the French Government in its temporary exile, but

feels that the Embassy as a whole should stay in Paris. Bordeaux is in

the midst of the districts which contain the detention camps for

German and Austrian prisoners, and I therefore rather expected to be

sent with Captain Pope and Mr. Sussdorf when I heard at noon that they

were to leave for Bordeaux. Mr. Frazier, however, told me that I was

to stay in Paris, work here being so pressing that the German

prisoners will have to get on without me. I hurriedly turned over to

Captain Pope much data I had collected concerning the camps and a

satchel containing twenty thousand francs in small change which I had

in hand for distribution among the internes.

* * * * *

_Thursday, September 3d._ Now that part of the Embassy corps has

departed for Bordeaux, the following remain at the _Chancellerie_ to

face the exciting events of an impending German invasion. Besides Mr.

Herrick and the secretaries, Messrs. Bliss and Frazier, there are

Majors Cosby, Hedekind, and Henry; Captains Parker, Brinton, and

Barker; Lieutenants Donait, Hunnicutt, Boyd, and Greble, all of the

United States Army; Major Roosevelt of the Marine Corps; Commander

Bricker and Lieutenants Smith and Wilkinson of the Navy. Herbert

Hazeltine, William Iselin, and myself are civil Attachés, and Harry

Dodge and Lawrence Norton private secretaries to the Ambassador. The

Treasurer, Mr. Beazle, was at the Embassy as long ago as the

Franco-Prussian war and the Commune, and has already lived through one

siege and capture of Paris. There are, of course, innumerable

stenographers, bookkeepers, and the like.

The other embassies and most of the consulates have fled. Their

members have left Paris more precipitately and with less dignity than

has been shown even by the civil population. They all seemed to lose

their wits when the Germans drew near Paris; they made their

preparations to depart in the most frantic haste; they were white of

face and perspiring with nervousness. It is not a pleasant sight to

see strong men palsied with fright, but we have seen many such these

days. Not a soul remains in the British Embassy or consulate to take

care of England's manifold interests. It seems strange that when

thousands of British heroes of the army are dying brave deaths on the

fields of battle, not a single British hero was to be found in the

diplomatic corps with nerve enough to risk the inconveniences of a

siege. The Ambassador of another country, who fled with the crowd,

left in spite of orders from his king absolutely directing him to

remain. Apparently he has sacrificed his career to his fright, for

this king was so determined that his embassy at least should remain in

Paris that he has replaced this ambassador by another who has more

courage,--the new one is a soldier.

These fleeing diplomats insult France by assuming that she is already

conquered, and insult the Germans by assuming that the lives of the

accredited plenipotentiaries of foreign nations would not be safe in

the hands of German soldiers. They also leave their own subjects in

Paris without a soul to represent them at a moment when they really

need a representative for the first time in decades. When these

magnates have recomposed their minds in Bordeaux and have time to

formulate excuses, they will probably say that they left Paris because

it was their solemn duty to accompany the French Government; but

yesterday, when they were asked why they were departing so swiftly,

they could only cry: "The Germans are coming."

Mr. Herrick looks on with calm amazement. Three days ago he

telegraphed Washington to ask for authorization to stay in Paris. The

reply left the matter to his own discretion. Thirty minutes later he

was in the cabinet of M. Delcassé to say that he would stay in Paris

no matter what might come. It must have been a wonderful tableau when

those two men faced each other across M. Delcassé's big desk. As Mr.

Herrick stated that the American Embassy was positively to remain in

Paris, M. Delcassé's expression of calm dignity vanished in a flash.

He stepped around his desk and shook Mr. Herrick eagerly by the hand.

He said there were many precious memorials and many rare objects which

might have their habitation in one spot like Paris, but which

nevertheless belonged to all civilized humanity, and that no diplomat

could perform a greater service to France and to mankind than to stay

in Paris and do what could be done to protect these precious memorials

and objects from destruction--a destruction which might be avoided if

an authorized spokesman of that humanity were present to protest.

* * * * *

The stampede out of Paris grows hour by hour. It is a contagion and

seizes all classes. A week ago it was a short street indeed which did

not boast at least one Red Cross Hospital; now most of them are

deserted, for the fashionable women who followed the fashion in

joining hospitals have now again followed the fashion and fled,

pell-mell.

The newspaper men and the "war correspondents" have been particularly

concerned for their own safety. By supreme efforts, I today managed

to obtain conveyances to transport several of them out of the

city--men with sweat on their brows and hands that trembled. There is

an element of humor in it all, despite the sadness. One of the staff

remarked, "Do you notice how all the newspaper men, who for weeks have

been pestering us with requests to be sent to the front, now demand as

insistently to be sent away, when the front is at last coming to

them?" In time of peace diplomats and war correspondents are easily

the most pugnacious people in the world. If one has taken them at

their own estimation the resulting contrast is painful.

Today we took over the interests of Great Britain, Japan, and

Guatemala. We have represented Germany, Austria, and Hungary since the

beginning of August, so that, including the United States, we are now

seven embassies in one.

* * * * *

_Friday, September 4th._ Last evening all Paris awaited the "six

o'clock Taube" which has become for the French a regular and almost

welcome feature of each day's happenings. At four o'clock a French

aviator in a monoplane took the air and mounted up, up, up, in slow

wide circles whose center was the Tour Eiffel, until he finally

reached an altitude of some 10,000 feet. Then, a mere speck in the

cold, thin air, he circled slowly around and around, waiting for the

German--who never came. Even without this climax the situation was

thrilling enough. The Frenchman descended sadly from his lofty beat

just as night fell, while waiting Paris was distinctly disappointed.

That night in the restaurants one heard Frenchmen express the

extraordinary hope that nothing _too_ terrible had happened to brave

Lieutenant von Heidssen.

[Illustration: M. DELCASSÉ, FRANCE'S MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS

[He is the most capable of France's statesmen, and was the prime

mover in the formation of the Triple Entente. He has been three

times Minister of Marine, once Minister of the Colonies, and five

times Minister of Foreign Affairs]]

This morning Paris is informed that the Lieutenant had been punctually

on his way to his daily appointment when, in flying over the Bois de

Vincennes, a rifle bullet had passed through his heart. Strange to

say, he planed down on a long steep slant, this man-bird, just as game

birds do when similarly stricken, and landed without serious damage to

his machine. He was found sitting stone dead, strapped up in his seat.

Such is the quick generosity of the French temperament that today he

is mourned by all Paris, this Lieutenant von Heidssen, who died on his

lonely way to keep his fifth punctual appointment with the city of

his enemies. Paris actually regrets that he no longer comes at six

each evening to throw bombs at her.

* * * * *

Mr. Herrick's remaining in Paris has been greeted with wonderful

appreciation and enthusiasm by the whole French nation. His picture is

in all the newspapers and shop windows, and even the most humble

member of the Embassy shines by reflected glory.

The diplomatic responsibilities resting on our Embassy become more

and more important, but everyone acknowledges that in each emergency

Mr. Herrick shows himself equal to the situation. When the first

German aëroplane threw bombs at Paris, a wave of indignation and

protestation swept over the city. It was one of those waves of

excitement which carry judgment before it. Citizens and officials,

newspapers and posters, Frenchmen and Americans, all besought and

begged Mr. Herrick, "the courageous, the noble Mr. Herrick," to

make formal protest to Washington. Everywhere one heard in angry

tones the phrases: "brutality," "contrary to the Hague Convention,"

"killing non-combatants," "barbarians." Mr. Herrick decided that

there was more danger in protesting too soon than of protesting too

late. He delayed long enough to consult his books and to confer with

his legal and military advisers. I was fortunate enough to be present

when he read the final summing-up of his conclusions. He had

discovered that neither Germany nor France had signed the clause

of the Hague Convention forbidding aircraft to drop bombs on cities.

Therefore, the law that non-combatants of a city must be warned

before any bombardment is begun did not, in the case of these

two nations, technically apply, whatever the considerations of

humanity might dictate.

Mr. Herrick did not protest, for there was legally nothing to protest

about. He forwarded verbatim to Washington the protests of the French

Government.

One now sees many British and Belgian soldiers about Paris. They have

come in on the edges of the great retreat. Their morale is exactly the

reverse of what one would expect in troops who have been badly beaten.

They express great contempt for the German soldier. They describe him

as a stupid, brutal, big-footed creature, who does not know how to

shoot and who has a distaste for the bayonet. They seem unable to

understand why they have been beaten by the Germans and try to explain

it by saying, "There are so many of them."

The Belgians, nearly all of whom have come from Liège and Namur, speak

in the most awe-stricken terms of the effects of the big German siege

guns, which fire a shell 11.2 inches in diameter. These guns were

placed in distant valleys and could not be located by the Belgians.

Moreover, they outranged the guns of the forts and could not have been

injured even if they had been located. The forts thus lay hopeless and

awaited their doom, which came suddenly enough in the shape of great

shells dropping out of the sky upon their cupolas. The explosions

might have been approximated by combining an earthquake, a volcanic

eruption, and a cyclone.

Namur was surrounded by twelve forts. The bombardment began on a

Wednesday night and three of the forts were reduced to scrap in two

days. The Germans marched through the gap thus made and took the other

forts in the rear, so that in less than three days Namur was

completely in their possession. This will undoubtedly be the system

used against Paris, and apparently there is no antidote. The forts

cannot reply, for they cannot determine where the big guns are

located; but meanwhile the big guns know the exact position of the

forts, and they, moreover, outrange the forts.

* * * * *

Today I had an opportunity to talk with three British officers

recently arrived in Paris from that part of the front just this side

of Chantilly. They were incredibly grimy, dirty, and sweaty and were

greatly embarrassed thereby. They were of the first body of British

troops landed in France; they had met the Germans at Charleroi and had

been through the whole retreat of nearly one hundred and fifty miles,

having been constantly in action for some two weeks. They summed up

their experiences by saying that they had received "a hell of a

licking." This statement is rather over-modest since within a day or

so we have learned that the British, numbering about sixty thousand,

were opposed by four or five German army corps, amounting to two

hundred thousand men, and that in spite of this the British had

retreated stubbornly, contesting every mile.

A most extraordinary thing which these officers told me was that,

during their whole retreat from Charleroi to Compiègne, they had never

seen a single French soldier nor received any assistance from the

French army. One is tempted to wonder what would have happened if

there had been no British army to help check the retreat toward Paris.

British soldiers agree that they have received most extraordinary

hospitality from the civilians and peasantry of Belgium and France.

Whole villages, themselves facing starvation, gave their last crumb of

bread and their last drop of wine to the British troops and cheerfully

slept in the fields in order that the soldiers might snatch a bit of

rest in their houses.

All the officers with whom I have had the opportunity to talk agree

that the German losses have been enormous. I do not think that this is

entirely patriotic exaggeration, since British officers are not

particularly prone to flights of fancy. One of them prefaced his

remarks on the retreat from Charleroi by saying, "The truth of the

matter is, we got damn well licked," and went on to say that his men

shot and shot and shot until they became sick of killing, and that

the Germans kept coming, always coming, their ranks riddled and

smashed by bullets and shells. The British all agree that the German

troops have an unflinching, dogged, brutal courage, which nothing

seems to daunt. They come on and on, climbing over the bodies of the

regiments which have gone before. The German tactics are those of

Napoleon. They attack a position and they keep on attacking it until

they take it, no matter what it costs; regiments and brigades are

wiped out without any wavering in the commander's resolve or in the

dogged persistence of his troops.

In spite of the fact that they have been constantly beaten by German

tactics, the officers of the Allies persist in considering them

antiquated and barbarous. They ascribe the German successes to their

big guns and to the wonderfully efficient way in which their bad

tactics are carried out. They all agree that the German skill in

concentrating troops before an attack is wonderful. So far they have

never failed to have overwhelming numbers at any point of offense.

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