II

In the dominion of Vielmur there is an inner empire. Nominally, the

Vidame is the reigning sovereign; but the power behind his throne is

Mise Fougueiroun. The term "Mise" is an old-fashioned Provencal title of

respect for women of the little bourgeoisie--tradesmen's and

shopkeepers' wives and the like--that has become obsolescent since the

Revolution and very generally has given place to the fine-ladyish

"Madamo." With a little stretching, it may be rendered by our English

old-fashioned title of "mistress"; and Mise Fougueiroun, who is the

Vidame's housekeeper, is mistress over his household in a truly

masterful way.

This personage is a little round woman, still plumply pleasing although

she is rising sixty, who is arrayed always with an exquisite neatness in

the dress--the sober black-and-white of the elder women, not the gay

colours worn by the young girls--of the Pays d'Arles; and--although

shortness and plumpness are at odds with majesty of deportment--she has,

at least, the peremptory manner of one long accustomed to command. As is

apt to be the way with little round women, her temper is of a brittle

cast and her hasty rulings sometimes smack of injustice; but her nature

(and this also is characteristic of her type) is so warmly generous that

her heart easily can be caught into kindness on the rebound. The Vidame,

who in spite of his antiquarian testiness is something of a philosopher,

takes advantage of her peculiarities to compass such of his wishes as

happen to run counter to her laws. His Machiavellian policy is to draw

her fire by a demand of an extravagant nature; and then, when her lively

refusal has set her a little in the wrong, handsomely to ask of her as

a favour what he really requires--a method that never fails of success.

By my obviously sincere admiration of the Chateau and its surroundings,

and by a discreet word or two implying a more personal admiration--a

tribute which no woman of the Pays d'Arles ever is too old to accept

graciously--I was so fortunate as to win Mise Fougueiroun's favour at

the outset; a fact of which I was apprised on the evening of my

arrival--it was at dinner, and the housekeeper herself had brought in a

bottle of precious Chateauneuf-du-Pape--by the cordiality with which she

joined forces with the Vidame in reprobating my belated coming to the

Chateau. Actually, I was near a fortnight behind the time named in my

invitation: which had stated expressly that Christmas began in Provence

on the Feast of Saint Barbara, and that I was expected not later than

that day--December 4th.

"Monsieur should have been here," said the housekeeper with decision,

"when we planted the blessed Saint Barbara's grain. And now it is grown

a full span. Monsieur will not see Christmas at all!"

But my apologetic explanation that I never even had heard of Saint

Barbara's grain only made my case the more deplorable.

"Mai!" exclaimed Mise Fougueiroun, in the tone of one who faces suddenly

a real calamity. "Can it be that there are no Christians in monsieur's

America? Is it possible that down there they do not keep the Christmas

feast at all?"

To cover my confusion, the Vidame intervened with an explanation which

made America appear in a light less heathenish. "The planting of Saint

Barbara's grain," he said, "is a custom that I think is peculiar to the

South of France. In almost every household in Provence, and over in

Languedoc too, on Saint Barbara's day the women fill two, sometimes

three, plates with wheat or lentils which they set afloat in water and

then stand in the warm ashes of the fire-place or on a sunny window

ledge to germinate. This is done in order to foretell the harvest of the

coming year, for as Saint Barbara's grain grows well or ill so will the

harvest of the coming year be good or bad; and also that there may be on

the table when the Great Supper is served on Christmas Eve--that is

to say, on the feast of the Winter Solstice--green growing grain in

symbol or in earnest of the harvest of the new year that then begins.

[Illustration: PLANTING SAINT BARBARA'S GRAIN]

"The association of the Trinitarian Saint Barbara with this custom," the

Vidame continued, "I fear is a bit of a makeshift. Were three plates of

grain the rule, something of a case would be made out in her favour. But

the rule, so far as one can be found, is for only two. The custom must

be of Pagan origin, and therefore dates from far back of the time when

Saint Barbara lived in her three-windowed tower at Heliopolis. Probably

her name was tagged to it because of old these votive and prophetic

grain-fields were sown on what in Christian times became her dedicated

day. But whatever light-mannered goddess may have been their patroness

then, she is their patroness now; and from their sowing we date the

beginning of our Christmas feast."

It was obvious that this explanation of the custom went much too far for

Mise Fougueiroun. At the mention of its foundation in Paganism she

sniffed audibly, and upon the Vidame's reference to the light-mannered

goddess she drew her ample skirts primly about her and left the room.

The Vidame smiled. "I have scandalized Mise, and to-morrow I shall have

to listen to a lecture," he said; and in a moment continued: "It is not

easy to make our Provencaux realize how closely we are linked to older

peoples and to older times. The very name for Christmas in Provencal,

Calendo, tells how this Christian festival lives on from the Roman

festival of the Winter Solstice, the January Kalends; and the beliefs

and customs which go with its celebration still more plainly mark its

origin. Our farmers believe, for instance, that these days which now are

passing--the twelve days, called _coumtie_, immediately preceding

Christmas--are foretellers of the weather for the new twelve months to

come; each in its turn, by rain or sunshine or by heat or cold, showing

the character of the correspondingly numbered month of the new year.

That the twelve prophetic days are those which immediately precede the

solstice puts their endowment with prophetic power very far back into

antiquity. Our farmers, too, have the saying, 'When Christmas falls on

a Friday you may sow in ashes'--meaning that the harvest of the ensuing

year surely will be so bountiful that seed sown anywhere will grow; and

in this saying there is a strong trace of Venus worship, for

Friday--Divendre in Provencal--is the day sacred to the goddess of

fertility and bears her name. That belief comes to us from the time when

the statue of Aphrodite, dug up not long since at Marseille, was

worshipped here. Our _Pater de Calendo_--our curious Christmas prayer

for abundance during the coming year--clearly is a Pagan supplication

that in part has been diverted into Christian ways; and in like manner

comes to us from Paganism the whole of our yule-log ceremonial."

The Vidame rose from the table. "Our coffee will be served in the

library," he said. He spoke with a perceptible hesitation, and there was

anxiety in his tone as he added: "Mise makes superb coffee; but

sometimes, when I have offended her, it is not good at all." And he

visibly fidgeted until the coffee arrived, and proved by its excellence

that the housekeeper had been too noble to take revenge.

The Christmas Kalends of Provence And Some Other Provençal Festivals · 第 29 / 62 题