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It is within the memory of many persons that jelly was only to be made
from calves' feet by a slow, difficult, and expensive process. There is,
indeed, a story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century,
having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds to make jelly, when
she could not procure calves' feet. But the secret that it could be so
made was carefully guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until
the introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people were brought to
believe that jelly could be made other than in the old-fashioned way.
Even now there is a lingering superstition that there is more
nourishment in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from Gelatine.
The fact is, however, that Gelatine is equally nutritious from whatever
source it is procured. Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does
sometimes contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, are
certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warrant their Gelatine of
equal purity with that derived from calves' feet.
It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both in time and money of
using Gelatine, or the more certain result obtained from it. If the
recipe given for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a most
excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. Many cooks get worried
about their jelly-bags, and are much divided in opinion as to the best
kind to use. It is not a point of great consequence whether a felt or
close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter, which must be of
good quality, and if the material is not thick it should be used double.
When put away otherwise than perfectly clean and dry, or when stored in
a damp place, flannel bags are sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour,
which is communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through them.
The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of the jelly-bag, is
that it be put away in a proper condition, that is, perfectly free from
all stiffness and from any smell whatever.
As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, throw it into a pan
of boiling water, stir it about with a spoon until it is cleansed. Then,
have another pan of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same
manner. Add as much cold water as will enable you to wring the bag out
dry, or it can be wrung out in a cloth. This done, finally rinse in hot
water, wring, and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. See that it
is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in very hot water again. Wrap
the bag in several folds of clean paper and keep it in a dry place.
A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed to come very
slowly to boiling-point it will be more effectually cleared, as the
impurities of the sugar and the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise
more surely with the egg than if this part of the process is too rapidly
carried out. In straining, if the jelly is well made, it is best to
pour all into the bag at one time, doing it slowly, so as not to break
up the scum more than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectly
bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and slowly poured
again through the bag. The contents of the bag should not be disturbed,
nor should the slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to
cloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put in after the jelly
is strained, as by boiling both the spirit and flavour of it are lost.
IN ORDER THAT JELLY MAY TURN OUT WELL, DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE MOULD
UNTIL IT IS ON THE POINT OF SETTING. If attention is paid to this there
will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out of a mould,
and putting it into hot water or using hot cloths will be unnecessary. A
mould should be used as cold as possible, because then when the jelly
comes into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. Any kind
of mould may be used. If the direction to put the jelly in _when just
setting_ is followed, it will turn out as well from an earthenware as
from a copper mould.
It should be unnecessary to say that the utmost cleanliness is
imperative to insure the perfection of jelly. So delicate a substance
not only contracts any disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by
the least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan which has not been
properly cleansed.