THE STRANGE RIDE OF MORROWBIE JUKES

Alive or dead--there is no other way.

--_Native Proverb._

There is, as the conjurers say, no deception about this tale. Jukes by

accident stumbled upon a village that is well known to exist, though

he is the only Englishman who has been there. A somewhat similar

institution used to flourish on the outskirts of Calcutta, and there is

a story that if you go into the heart of Bikanir, which is in the heart

of the Great Indian Desert, you shall come across not a village but a

town where the Dead who did not die but may not live have established

their headquarters. And, since it is perfectly true that in the same

Desert is a wonderful city where all the rich money lenders retreat

after they have made their fortunes (fortunes so vast that the owners

cannot trust even the strong hand of the Government to protect them,

but take refuge in the waterless sands), and drive sumptuous C-spring

barouches, and buy beautiful girls and decorate their palaces with gold

and ivory and Minton tiles and mother-n’-pearl, I do not see why Jukes’s

tale should not be true. He is a Civil Engineer, with a head for plans

and distances and things of that kind, and he certainly would not take

the trouble to invent imaginary traps. He could earn more by doing his

legitimate work. He never varies the tale in the telling, and grows

very hot and indignant when he thinks of the disrespectful treatment

he received. He wrote this quite straightforwardly at first, but he has

since touched it up in places and introduced Moral Reflections, thus:

In the beginning it all arose from a slight attack of fever. My work

necessitated my being in camp for some months between Pakpattan and

Muharakpur--a desolate sandy stretch of country as every one who has had

the misfortune to go there may know. My coolies were neither more nor

less exasperating than other gangs, and my work demanded sufficient

attention to keep me from moping, had I been inclined to so unmanly a

weakness.

On the 23d December, 1884, I felt a little feverish. There was a full

moon at the time, and, in consequence, every dog near my tent was baying

it. The brutes assembled in twos and threes and drove me frantic. A few

days previously I had shot one loud-mouthed singer and suspended his

carcass _in terrorem_ about fifty yards from my tent-door. But his

friends fell upon, fought for, and ultimately devoured the body; and, as

it seemed to me, sang their hymns of thanksgiving afterward with renewed

energy.

The light-heartedness which accompanies fever acts differently on

different men. My irritation gave way, after a short time, to a fixed

determination to slaughter one huge black and white beast who had been

foremost in song and first in flight throughout the evening. Thanks to

a shaking hand and a giddy head I had already missed him twice with both

barrels of my shot-gun, when it struck me that my best plan would be to

ride him down in the open and finish him off with a hog-spear. This, of

course, was merely the semi-delirious notion of a fever patient; but I

remember that it struck me at the time as being eminently practical and

feasible.

I therefore ordered my groom to saddle Pornic and bring him round

quietly to the rear of my tent. When the pony was ready, I stood at his

head prepared to mount and dash out as soon as the dog should again lift

up his voice. Pornic, by the way, had not been out of his pickets for a

couple of days; the night air was crisp and chilly; and I was armed

with a specially long and sharp pair of persuaders with which I had been

rousing a sluggish cob that afternoon. You will easily believe, then,

that when he was let go he went quickly. In one moment, for the brute

bolted as straight as a die, the tent was left far behind, and we were

flying over the smooth sandy soil at racing speed.

In another we had passed the wretched dog, and I had almost forgotten

why it was that I had taken the horse and hogspear.

The delirium of fever and the excitement of rapid motion through the

air must have taken away the remnant of my senses. I have a faint

recollection of standing upright in my stirrups, and of brandishing my

hog-spear at the great white Moon that looked down so calmly on my mad

gallop; and of shout-log challenges to the camel-thorn bushes as they

whizzed past. Once or twice I believe, I swayed forward on Pornic’s

neck, and literally hung on by my spurs--as the marks next morning

showed.

The wretched beast went forward like a thing possessed, over what seemed

to be a limitless expanse of moonlit sand. Next, I remember, the ground

rose suddenly in front of us, and as we topped the ascent I saw the

waters of the Sutlej shining like a silver bar below. Then Pornic

blundered heavily on his nose, and we rolled together down some unseen

slope.

I must have lost consciousness, for when I recovered I was lying on

my stomach in a heap of soft white sand, and the dawn was beginning to

break dimly over the edge of the slope down which I had fallen. As the

light grew stronger I saw that I was at the bottom of a horseshoe-shaped

crater of sand, opening on one side directly on to the shoals of the

Sutlej. My fever had altogether left me, and, with the exception of a

slight dizziness in the head, I felt no had effects from the fall over

night.

Pornic, who was standing a few yards away, was naturally a good deal

exhausted, but had not hurt himself in the least. His saddle, a favorite

polo one was much knocked about, and had been twisted under his belly.

It took me some time to put him to rights, and in the meantime I had

ample opportunities of observing the spot into which I had so foolishly

dropped.

At the risk of being considered tedious, I must describe it at length:

inasmuch as an accurate mental picture of its peculiarities will be of

material assistance in enabling the reader to understand what follows.

Imagine then, as I have said before, a horseshoe-shaped crater of sand

with steeply graded sand walls about thirty-five feet high. (The slope,

I fancy, must have been about 65 degrees.) This crater enclosed a level

piece of ground about fifty yards long by thirty at its broadest part,

with a crude well in the centre. Round the bottom of the crater,

about three feet from the level of the ground proper, ran a series of

eighty-three semi-circular ovoid, square, and multilateral holes, all

about three feet at the mouth. Each hole on inspection showed that it

was carefully shored internally with drift-wood and bamboos, and over

the mouth a wooden drip-board projected, like the peak of a jockey’s

cap, for two feet. No sign of life was visible in these tunnels, but a

most sickening stench pervaded the entire amphitheatre--a stench fouler

than any which my wanderings in Indian villages have introduced me to.

Having remounted Pornic, who was as anxious as I to get back to camp, I

rode round the base of the horseshoe to find some place whence an exit

would be practicable. The inhabitants, whoever they might be, had not

thought fit to put in an appearance, so I was left to my own devices. My

first attempt to “rush” Pornic up the steep sand-banks showed me that

I had fallen into a trap exactly on the same model as that which the

ant-lion sets for its prey. At each step the shifting sand poured down

from above in tons, and rattled on the drip-boards of the holes like

small shot. A couple of ineffectual charges sent us both rolling down to

the bottom, half choked with the torrents of sand; and I was constrained

to turn my attention to the river-bank.

Here everything seemed easy enough. The sand hills ran down to the river

edge, it is true, but there were plenty of shoals and shallows across

which I could gallop Pornic, and find my way back to _terra firma_ by

turning sharply to the right or left. As I led Pornic over the sands I

was startled by the faint pop of a rifle across the river; and at the

same moment a bullet dropped with a sharp “_whit_” close to Pornic’s

head.

There was no mistaking the nature of the missile--a regulation

Martini-Henry “picket.” About five hundred yards away a country-boat was

anchored in midstream; and a jet of smoke drifting away from its bows in

the still morning air showed me whence the delicate attention had come.

Was ever a respectable gentleman in such an _impasse_? The treacherous

sand slope allowed no escape from a spot which I had visited most

involuntarily, and a promenade on the river frontage was the signal for

a bombardment from some insane native in a boat. I’m afraid that I lost

my temper very much indeed.

Another bullet reminded me that I had better save my breath to cool

my porridge; and I retreated hastily up the sands and back to the

horseshoe, where I saw that the noise of the rifle had drawn sixty-five

human beings from the badger-holes which I had up till that point

supposed to be untenanted. I found myself in the midst of a crowd of

spectators--about forty men, twenty women, and one child who could not

have been more than five years old. They were all scantily clothed in

that salmon-colored cloth which one associates with Hindu mendicants,

and, at first sight, gave me the impression of a band of loathsome

_fakirs_. The filth and repulsiveness of the assembly were beyond

all description, and I shuddered to think what their life in the

badger-holes must be.

Even in these days, when local self-government has destroyed the greater

part of a native’s respect for a Sahib, I have been accustomed to a

certain amount of civility from my inferiors, and on approaching the

crowd naturally expected that there would be some recognition of my

presence. As a matter of fact there was; but it was by no means what I

had looked for.

The ragged crew actually laughed at me--such laughter I hope I may never

hear again. They cackled, yelled, whistled, and howled as I walked into

their midst; some of them literally throwing themselves down on the

ground in convulsions of unholy mirth. In a moment I had let go Pornic’s

head, and, irritated beyond expression at the morning’s adventure,

commenced cuffing those nearest to me with all the force I could. The

wretches dropped under my blows like nine-pins, and the laughter gave

place to wails for mercy; while those yet untouched clasped me round the

knees, imploring me in all sorts of uncouth tongues to spare them.

In the tumult, and just when I was feeling very much ashamed of myself

for having thus easily given way to my temper, a thin, high voice

murmured in English from behind my shoulder: “Sahib! Sahib! Do you not

know me? Sahib, it is Gunga Dass, the telegraph-master.”

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