The Chemistry of Food and Nutrition

By A.W. DUNCAN, F.C.S.

We may define a food to be any substance which will repair the functional

waste of the body, increase its growth, or maintain the heat, muscular,

and nervous energy. In its most comprehensive sense, the oxygen of the air

is a food; as although it is admitted by the lungs, it passes into the

blood, and there re-acts upon the other food which has passed through the

stomach. It is usual, however, to restrict the term food to such nutriment

as enters the body by the intestinal canal. Water is often spoken of as

being distinct from food, but for this there is no sufficient reason.

Many popular writers have divided foods into flesh-formers, heat-givers,

and bone-formers. Although attractive from its simplicity, this

classification will not bear criticism. Flesh-formers are also

heat-givers. Only a portion of the mineral matter goes to form bone.

Class I.--INORGANIC COMPOUNDS.

Sub-class 1. Water. 2. Mineral Matter or Salts.

Class II--ORGANIC COMPOUNDS.

1. Non-Nitrogeneous or Ternary Compounds. _a_ Carbohydrates.

_b_ Oils. _c_ Organic Acids.

2. Nitrogenous Compounds. _a_ Proteids. _b_ Osseids.

Class III.--NON-NUTRITIVES, FOOD ADJUNCTS AND DRUGS.

Essential Oils, Alkaloids, Extractives, Alcohol, &c.

These last are not strictly foods, if we keep to the definition already

given; but they are consumed with the true foods or nutrients, comprised

in the other two classes, and cannot well be excluded from consideration.

Water forms an essential part of all the tissues of the body. It is the

solvent and carrier of other substances.

Mineral Matter or Salts, is left as an ash when food is thoroughly

burnt. The most important salts are calcium phosphate, carbonate and

fluoride, sodium chloride, potassium phosphate and chloride, and compounds

of magnesium, iron and silicon.

Mineral matter is quite as necessary for plant as for animal life, and is

therefore present in all food, except in the case of some highly-prepared

ones, such as sugar, starch and oil. Children require a good proportion of

calcium phosphate for the growth of their bones, whilst adults require

less. The outer part of the grain of cereals is the richest in mineral

constituents, white flour and rice are deficient. Wheatmeal and oatmeal

are especially recommended for the quantity of phosphates and other salts

contained in them. Mineral matter is necessary not only for the bones but

for every tissue of the body.

When haricots are cooked, the liquid is often thrown away, and the beans

served nearly dry, or with parsley or other sauce. Not only is the food

less tasty but important saline constituents are lost. The author has made

the following experiments:--German whole lentils, Egyptian split red

lentils and medium haricot beans were soaked all night (16 hours) in just

sufficient cold water to keep them covered. The water was poured off and

evaporated, the residue heated in the steam-oven to perfect dryness and

weighed. After pouring off the water, the haricots were boiled in more

water until thoroughly cooked, the liquid being kept as low as possible.

The liquid was poured off as clear as possible, from the haricots,

evaporated and dried. The ash was taken in each case, and the alkalinity

of the water-soluble ash was calculated as potash (K_{2}O). The quantity

of water which could be poured off was with the German lentils, half as

much more than the original weight of the pulse; not quite as much could

be poured off the others.

G. Lentils. E. Lentils. Haricots. Cooked H.

Proportion of liquid 1.5 1.25 1.20 --

Soluble dry matter 0.97 3.38 1.43 7.66 per cent.

Ash 0.16 0.40 0.28 1.26 " "

Alkalinity as K_{2}O 0.02 0.082 0.084 0.21 " "

The loss on soaking in cold water, unless the water is preserved, is seen

to be considerable. The split lentils, having had the protecting skin

removed, lose most. In every case the ash contained a good deal of

phosphate and lime. Potatoes are rich in important potash salts; by

boiling a large quantity is lost, by steaming less and by baking in the

skins, scarcely any. The flavour is also much better after baking.

The usual addition of common salt (sodium-chloride) to boiled potatoes is

no proper substitute for the loss of their natural saline constituents.

Natural and properly cooked foods are so rich in sodium chloride and other

salts that the addition of common salt is unnecessary. An excess of the

latter excites thirst and spoils the natural flavour of the food. It is

the custom, especially in restaurants, to add a large quantity of salt to

pulse, savoury food, potatoes and soups. Bakers' brown bread is usually

very salt, and sometimes white is also. In some persons much salt causes

irritation of the skin, and the writer has knowledge of the salt food of

vegetarian restaurants causing or increasing dandruff. As a rule, fondness

for salt is an acquired taste, and after its discontinuance for a time,

food thus flavoured becomes unpalatable.

Organic Compounds are formed by living organisms (a few can also be

produced by chemical means). They are entirely decomposed by combustion.

The Non-Nitrogenous Organic Compounds are commonly called carbon

compounds or heat-producers, but these terms are also descriptive of the

nitrogenous compounds. These contain carbon, hydrogen and oxygen only, and

furnish by their oxidation or combustion in the body the necessary heat,

muscular and nervous energy. The final product of their combustion is

water and carbon dioxide (carbonic acid gas).

The Carbohydrates comprise starch, sugar, gum, mucilage, pectose,

glycogen, &c.; cellulose and woody fibre are carbohydrates, but are little

capable of digestion. They contain hydrogen and oxygen in the proportion

to form water, the carbon alone being available to produce heat by

combustion. Starch is the most widely distributed food. It is insoluble in

water, but when cooked is readily digested and absorbed by the body.

Starch is readily converted into sugar, whether in plants or animals,

during digestion. There are many kinds of sugar, such as grape, cane and

milk sugars.

The Oils and Fats consist of the same elements as the carbohydrates,

but the hydrogen is in larger quantity than is necessary to form water,

and this surplus is available for the production of energy. During their

combustion in the body they produce nearly two-and-a-quarter times (4 :

8.9 = 2.225) as much heat as the carbohydrates; but if eaten in more than

small quantities, they are not easily digested, a portion passing away by

the intestines. The fat in the body is not solely dependent upon the

quantity consumed as food, as an animal may become quite fat on food

containing none. A moderate quantity favours digestion and the bodily

health. In cold weather more should be taken. In the Arctic regions the

Esquimaux consume enormous quantities. Nuts are generally rich in oil.

Oatmeal contains more than any of the other cereals (27 analyses gave from

8 to 12.3 per cent.)

The most esteemed and dearest oil is Almond. What is called Peach-kernel

oil (Oleum Amygdalæ Persicæ), but which in commerce includes the oil

obtained from plum and apricot stones, is almost as tasteless and useful,

whilst it is considerably cheaper. It is a very agreeable and useful food.

It is often added to, as an adulterant, or substituted for the true Almond

oil. The best qualities of Olive oil are much esteemed, though they are

not as agreeable to English taste as the oil previously mentioned. The

best qualities are termed Virgin, Extra Sublime and Sublime. Any that has

been exposed for more than a short time to the light and heat of a shop

window should be rejected, as the flavour is affected. It should be kept

in a cool place. Not only does it vary much in freedom from acid and

rancidity, but is frequently adulterated. Two other cheaper oils deserve

mention. The "cold-drawn" Arachis oil (pea-nut or earth-nut oil) has a

pleasant flavour, resembling that of kidney beans. The "cold-drawn" Sesamé

oil has an agreeable taste, and is considered equal to Olive oil for

edible purposes. The best qualities are rather difficult to obtain; those

usually sold being much inferior to Peach-kernel and Olive oils.

Cotton-seed oil is the cheapest of the edible ones. Salad oil, not sold

under any descriptive name, is usually refined Cotton-seed oil, with

perhaps a little Olive oil to impart a richer flavour.

The solid fats sold as butter and lard substitutes, consist of deodorised

cocoanut oil, and they are excellent for cooking purposes. It is claimed

that biscuits, &c., made from them may be kept for a much longer period,

without showing any trace of rancidity, than if butter or lard had been

used. They are also to be had agreeably flavoured by admixture with

almond, walnut, &c., "cream."

The better quality oils are quite as wholesome as the best fresh butter,

and better than most butter as sold. Bread can be dipped into the oil, or

a little solid vegetable fat spread on it. The author prefers to pour a

little Peach-kernel oil upon some ground walnut kernels (or other ground

nuts in themselves rich in oil), mix with a knife to a suitable

consistency and spread upon the bread. Pine-kernels are very oily, and can

be used in pastry in the place of butter or lard.

Whenever oils are mentioned, without a prefix, the fixed or fatty oils are

always understood. The volatile or essential oils are a distinct class.

Occasionally, the fixed oils are called hydrocarbons, but hydrocarbon

oils are quite different and consist of carbon and hydrogen alone. Of

these, petroleum is incapable of digestion, whilst others are poisonous.

Vegetable Acids are composed of the same three elements and undergo

combustion into the same compounds as the carbohydrates. They rouse the

appetite, stimulate digestion, and finally form carbonates in combination

with the alkalies, thus increasing the alkalinity of the blood. The chief

vegetable acids are: malic acid, in the apple, pear, cherry, &c.; citric

acid, in the lemon, lime, orange, gooseberry, cranberry, strawberry,

raspberry, &c.; tartaric acid, in the grape, pineapple, &c.

Some place these under Class III. or food adjuncts. Oxalic acid (except

when in the insoluble state of calcium oxalate), and several other acids

are poisonous.

Proteids or Albuminoids are frequently termed flesh-formers. They are

composed of nitrogen, carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and a small quantity of

sulphur, and are extremely complex bodies. Their chief function is to form

flesh in the body; but without previously forming it, they may be

transformed into fat or merely give rise to heat. They form the essential

part of every living cell.

Proteids are excreted from the body as water, carbon dioxide, urea, uric

acid, sulphates, &c.

The principal proteids of animal origin have their corresponding proteids

in the vegetable kingdom. Some kinds, whether of animal or vegetable

origin, are more easily digested than others. They have the same

physiological value from whichever kingdom they are derived.

The Osseids comprise ossein, gelatin, cartilage, &c., from bone, skin,

and connective issue. They approach the proteids in composition, but

unlike them they cannot form flesh or fulfil the same purpose in

nutrition. Some food chemists wish to call the osseids, albuminoids; what

were formerly termed albuminoids to be always spoken of as proteids only.

Jellies are of little use as food; not only is this because of the low

nutritive value of gelatin, but also on account of the small quantity

which is mixed with a large proportion of water.

The Vegetable Kingdom is the prime source of all organic food; water,

and to a slight extent salts, form the only food that animals can derive

directly from the inorganic kingdom. When man consumes animal food--a

sheep for example--he is only consuming a portion of the food which that

sheep obtained from grass, clover, turnips, &c. All the proteids of the

flesh once existed as proteids in the vegetables; some in exactly the same

chemical form.

Flesh contains no starch or sugar, but a small quantity of glycogen. The

fat in an animal is derived from the carbohydrates, the fats and the

proteids of the vegetables consumed. The soil that produced the herbage,

grain and roots consumed by cattle, in most cases could have produced food

capable of direct utilisation by man. By passing the product of the soil

through animals there is an enormous economic loss, as the greater part of

that food is dissipated in maintaining the life and growth; little remains

as flesh when the animal is delivered into the hands of the butcher. Some

imagine that flesh food is more easily converted into flesh and blood in

our bodies and is consequently more valuable than similar constituents in

vegetables, but such is not the case. Fat, whether from flesh or from

vegetables is digested in the same manner. The proteids of flesh, like

those of vegetables, are converted into peptone by the digestive

juices--taking the form of a perfectly diffusible liquid--otherwise they

could not be absorbed and utilised by the body. Thus the products of

digestion of both animal and vegetable proteids and fats are the same.

Formerly, proteid matter was looked upon as the most valuable part of the

food, and a large proportion was thought necessary for hard work. It was

thought to be required, not only for the construction of the muscle

substance, but to be utilised in proportion to muscular exertion. These

views are now known to be wrong. A comparatively small quantity of proteid

matter, such as is easily obtained from vegetable food, is ample for the

general needs of the body. Increased muscular exertion requires but a

slight increase of this food constituent. It is the carbohydrates, or

carbohydrates and fats that should be eaten in larger quantity, as these

are the main source of muscular energy. The fact that animals, capable of

the most prolonged and powerful exertion, thrive on vegetables of

comparatively low proteid value, and that millions of the strongest races

have subsisted on what most Englishmen would consider a meagre vegetarian

diet, should have been sufficient evidence against the earlier view.

A comparison of flesh and vegetable food, shows in flesh an excessive

quantity of proteid matter, a very small quantity of glycogen (the animal

equivalent of starch and sugar) and a variable quantity of fat. Vegetable

food differs much, but as a rule it contains a much smaller quantity of

proteid matter, a large proportion of starch and sugar and a small

quantity of fat. Some vegetable foods, particularly nuts, contain much

fat.

Investigation of the digestive processes has shown that the carbohydrates

and fats entail little strain on the system; their ultimate products are

water and carbon dioxide, which are easily disposed of. The changes which

the proteids undergo in the body are very complicated. There is ample

provision in the body for their digestion, metabolism, and final

rejection, when taken in moderate quantity, as is the case in a dietary of

vegetables. The proteids in the human body, after fulfilling their

purpose, are in part expelled in the same way as the carbohydrates; but

the principal part, including all the nitrogen, is expelled by the kidneys

in the form of urea (a very soluble substance), and a small quantity of

uric acid in the form of quadurates.

There is reciprocity between the teeth and digestive organs of animals and

their natural food. The grasses, leaves, &c., which are consumed by the

herbivora, contain a large proportion of cellulose and woody tissue.

Consequently, the food is bulky; it is but slowly disintegrated and the

nutritious matter liberated and digested. The cellulose appears but

slightly acted upon by the digestive juices. The herbivora possess

capacious stomachs and the intestines are very long. The carnivora have

simpler digestive organs and short intestines. Even they consume

substances which leave much indigestible residue, such as skin, ligaments

and bones, but civilised man, when living on a flesh dietary removes as

much of such things as possible. The monkeys, apes, and man (comprised in

the order _Primates_) have a digestive canal intermediate in complexity

and in length to the herbivora and carnivora. A certain quantity of

indigestible matter is necessary for exciting peristaltic action of the

bowels. The carnivora with their short intestinal canal need the least,

the frugivora more, and the herbivora a much larger quantity. The

consumption by man of what is commonly called concentrated food is the

cause of the constipation to which flesh-eating nations are subject. Most

of the pills and other nostrums which are used in enormous quantities

contain aloes or other drugs which stimulate the action of the intestines.

Highly manufactured foods, from which as much as possible of the

non-nutritious matter has been removed is often advocated, generally by

those interested in its sale. Such food would be advantageous only if it

were possible to remove or modify a great part of our digestive canal (we

are omitting from consideration certain diseased conditions, when such

foods may be useful). The eminent physiologist and bacteriologist, Elie

Metchnikoff, has given it as his opinion that much of man's digestive

organs is not only useless but often productive of derangement and

disease. In several cases where it has been necessary, in consequence of

serious disease, to remove the entire stomach or a large part of the

intestines, the digestive functions have been perfectly performed. It is

not that our organs are at fault, but our habits of life differ from that

of our progenitors. In past times, when a simple dietary in which flesh

food formed little or no part, and to-day, in those countries where one

wholly or nearly all derived from vegetable sources and simply prepared is

the rule, diseases of the digestive organs are rare. The Englishman going

to a tropical country and partaking largely of flesh and alcohol, suffers

from disease of the liver and other organs, to which the natives and the

few of his own countrymen, living in accordance with natural laws are

strangers.

Indigestible Matter--Food is never entirely digested. As a reason

against confining ourselves solely to vegetable food, it has been stated

that such is less perfectly digested than animal food and that it

therefore throws more work on the digestive organs. It is also urged that

on this account a greater quantity of vegetable food is required. We have

shown elsewhere that, on the contrary, vegetarians are satisfied with a

smaller amount of food. Man requires a small quantity of woody fibre or

cellulose in his food to stimulate intestinal action and prevent

constipation.

It is difficult to determine how much of a food is unassimilated in the

body. This is for the reason of the intestinal refuse consisting not only

of undigested food, but also of residues of the digestive juices, mucus

and epithelial debris. These latter have been shown to amount to from

one-third to one-half of the whole of the fæces, which is much more than

had previously been supposed.

John Goodfellow has shown that of very coarse wholemeal bread quite 14 per

cent. was undigested, whilst bread made from ordinary grade wholemeal

showed 12.5 per cent. Such a method of analysis was adopted as it was

believed would exclude other than the food waste. The experiments were

made on a person who was eating nothing but the bread. It seems probable

that a smaller proportion would have remained unassimilated had the bread

not formed the sole food. It is advisable that wheatmeal he ground as

finely as possible, the coarse is not only to a less extent assimilated

but apt to irritate the bowels. Notwithstanding that fine white bread gave

only 4.2 per cent. and a coarse white bread 4.9 per cent. of waste, a fine

wheatmeal bread is more economical as the same quantity of wheat produces

a greater weight of flour richer in proteid and mineral matter. From a

large number of experiments with man, it has been calculated that of

proteids there is digested when animal food is eaten 98 per cent., from

cereals and sugars 8 per cent., from vegetables and fruits 80 per cent.

The difference between the proportions digested of the other food

constituents was much less. Although there is here a theoretical advantage

in favour of animal food, there are other considerations of far more

importance than a little undigestible waste. The main question is one of

health. In some dietary experiments of a girl aged 7, living upon a fruit

diet, of whom we have given some particulars elsewhere, Professor Jaffa

gives the following particulars. During the ten days trial the percentages

absorbed were proteids 82.5, fat 86.9, nitrogen free extract 96, crude

fibre 80, ash 5.7, heat of combustion in calories 86.7. He says,

"generally speaking, the food was quite thoroughly assimilated, the

coefficients of digestibility being about the same as are found in an

ordinary mixed diet. It is interesting to note that 80 per cent. of the

crude fibre appeared to be digested. The results of a number of foreign

experiments on the digestibility of crude fibre by man are from 30 to 91.4

per cent., the former value being from mixed wheat and rye, and the latter

in a diet made of rice, vegetables and meat."

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