My situation was now in the highest degree embarrassing and painful.
I was at least three hundred miles from Potosi, and excepting a small
piece of gold, and a few dollars in silver, which I happened to have in
my pocket, in all amounting to about seven dollars, I was absolutely
destitute of money. I was in the midst of strangers, and had no means
of obtaining credit, by which I might repair my losses. I spent two
or three days in walking up and down the river, which had swept away
our horses and baggage; but the torrent continued to increase, rather
than subside, and had now the aspect of a permanent river. Not the
slightest hope was therefore presented of retrieving our fortunes. No
other alternative was offered but to make our way to Potosi on foot.
No sooner was my resolution taken than I departed, still accompanied
by Balbo, my Indian guide. When I was once again in action, my spirits
rose, and with a cheerful heart I pursued my way over the rugged
country that lay before me. For several days, the tall pyramidal top of
the smoking volcano was in view, and indeed, as we proceeded, it seemed
to lift its head above the surrounding mountains as if to watch us, or
to keep us company. It was not till we had travelled a distance of more
than forty miles, that it began to dwindle in the distance, and sink
down amid the mountain peaks that encircled it.
It was a beautiful season, and on every side, there were objects to
attract my attention. The strange but gorgeous flowers that were
scattered in profusion on every hand; the gaudy birds; the contrast
between the mountain scenery on one side, and the waving plain,
marked with cultivation, on the other, afforded constant topics for
observation and reflection. No very remarkable incidents occurred, yet
there were passages in our journey which were by no means devoid of
interest. We met with no towns, and few villages.
The Indians constituted the chief inhabitants upon the route. These
were marked with a peculiar character of gentleness, and their
hospitality was unbounded. They allowed us freely to share in
whatever food they possessed, and would seldom accept of payment.
Their houses were of the simplest materials, consisting of poles set
upright in the ground, the sides and roof being firmly thatched with
palm leaves. Their furniture was rude and scanty. They seemed to sail
down the stream of life, resigning themselves with easy indolence to
its current. They had most of them some cattle, and milk furnished a
leading article of their food.
In one instance, we met with an exciting adventure. As we were crossing
a broken range of mountains, we perceived a small animal, resembling a
deer, pursued by a bird of enormous size. My guide immediately informed
me that the quadruped was a vicuna, and that the pursuer was a species
of vulture, which is familiar to most readers under the name of condor.
When we first saw them, the vicuna was straining every nerve to escape,
while the condor hung over his back, and at every opportunity struck
his talons into his flesh.
They both swept by us, so close that we could distinctly see every
feature of the pursuer and pursued. The little quadruped was foaming at
the mouth; his eye was wild and glaring, and his sides streaming with
blood. The vulture, with his merciless gaze fixed upon his prey, held
his talons ready for the blow, while he seemed to glance through the
air on his outspread wings, like an arrow from the bow. On they went,
till at last the vicuna came to a precipice of nearly two hundred feet
in depth. Pressed by his remorseless enemy, he hesitated not for a
moment, but taking the fatal leap, fell crushed and lifeless into the
depths of the rocky gorge beneath. The condor wheeled round and round,
and finally stooped with an easy motion to partake of his feast.
I had some curiosity to see the monster at his meal. After winding
round for a considerable distance, we reached the bottom of the ravine.
We approached the savage bird, and perceived that he had already
commenced his feast; he had torn open the bowels of the vicuna, and
seemed to cut and rend the flesh with his enormous beak as easily as
if it had been a butcher’s knife. As we drew near, he glared upon us
fiercely, and seemed to deliberate for a moment whether he should not
repel the unwelcome intrusion. Finding us not disposed to retreat, he
seized his prey in his claws, and beating his wings with a furious
impulse rose heavily upon the air. Bending his course slightly downward
along the distant slope of the mountains, he continued for some time in
view, and at last disappeared amid the mazes of the forest.
Pursuing our way with diligence, we now began to ascend the mountains
which encircled the valley of Potosi. Winding our way through deep
vales, and often climbing along the dizzy edges of beetling cliffs,
we reached the top of the mountain range and looked down upon the
scene below. The wild and rugged ramparts which encircle this famous
city, bear a desolate and wintry aspect. Scarcely a tree crowns their
summits, and nothing but mosses and lichens seem to flourish in the
chill and ungenial climate. Yet below, we could perceive bright patches
of vegetation, seeming to indicate a milder temperature.
Beginning now to descend, we proceeded with caution, and were soon
lodged in the celebrated city of Potosi.
[Illustration: _City of Potosi._]