I found the city of Valparaiso to be much smaller than its commercial
importance had led me to suppose. It is the chief port on the western
coast of America. From this point, the principal commerce is carried
on with the Islands of the Pacific and the coast of Asia. Indeed,
Valparaiso is the centre of trade in this quarter of the world. Still,
at the time I was there, more than twenty years ago, its population did
not exceed 15,000. In 1822, it suffered from a dreadful earthquake,
but it has now increased, and since the independence of Chili, it has
become even more important than in former times. It is built along a
bending beach, at the foot of a high bluff, which overlooks the town.
The buildings are ornamented with piazzas, painted with different
colors, giving the place a very lively appearance. The present number
of inhabitants is about 25,000.
It may well be believed that the business which brought me to this
place, engrossed my thoughts, and that immediately after my arrival,
I began to devote my attention to it. I delivered the letters of
introduction I had brought, and pursued my enquiries in relation to
my uncle, in the channels which had been pointed out. To my great
mortification, I soon found that he was not in Valparaiso.
The only clue I could obtain which seemed to offer the least chance
of his discovery, was that a man bearing the Spanish name of Signor
Morales, had come to this city some fifteen years before. He engaged
in commerce, and being a man of enterprise, was very successful, and
speedily amassed a large estate. Suddenly, and without any known cause,
he became poor, closed his business and lived a life of seclusion. At
last, he disappeared and no one seemed to know with certainty whither
he had gone.
I found various rumors respecting him. One person said he had gone to
the Island of Juan Fernandes, and now lived there alone as Alexander
Selkirk had done before him. I was told by another that he had become
a friar, and lived as a hermit near the foot of one of the snow-capped
mountains of the Andes. Another story was, that the mysterious merchant
had gone to Potosi, where he had purchased a silver mine and become
immensely rich.
Amid these various rumors, one thing only seemed to be clear, and this
was, that the individual to whom they related was in fact my uncle.
The description of his person, manners, and appearance was exact.
Everything else however was uncertain. It seemed probable, indeed, that
he had himself set afloat the contradictory rumors as to his residence,
with a view of concealing his real purpose.
I remained several months at Valparaiso, following out every suggestion
that seemed to offer a clue to the object of my search. At last there
seemed some reason to suppose that the story of my uncle’s being at
Potosi, was not altogether without foundation. Faint, indeed, was the
hope thus offered, but in the absence of every other, I determined to
visit that celebrated place. My guide across the Pampas had continued
with me and again setting out on horseback, we laid our course for
southern Peru, a country which is now known by the title of Bolivia.
The road led to the north, and lay at a distance of sixty or seventy
miles from the ocean. For the most part we travelled over a wavy
table-land, nearly a thousand feet above the level of the sea. On our
right, lay the mighty range of the Andes; on our left, the almost
boundless Pacific. The country was thinly settled, there being here and
there a small village; or, more frequently, the villa of some Spanish
planter. The country was exceedingly fertile, and the cattle seemed as
abundant as upon the prairies of Buenos Ayres. As we rode along, the
grass, now in its fullest bloom, frequently concealed the pasturing
herds from view, and often as we rode along, the coarse herbage seemed
to form a wall on either side of the path, rising even as high as my
head. Never have I seen a more lovely climate, or a more fruitful soil.
Though we met with few adventures, our journey was delightful. In ten
days we approached the celebrated desert of Atacama, which stretches
four hundred and fifty miles along the Pacific, and forms the maritime
district of the present republic of Bolivia. Upon this spot, as if it
were deserted of Heaven, the rain never falls, and it is accordingly
given up to everlasting blight and desolation. It is a sandy waste, and
is not only destitute of vegetation, but it is said that no animal,
not even a spider, a cricket, or a worm, is found throughout its vast
extent.
Our road, for two days, lay along the verge of this waste. It seemed
marked with a peculiar aspect of solitude and desertion. No word
can express the emotions which it suggested, but that of _death_.
Neither life, nor motion, nor verdure were visible throughout its
measureless bosom. No sound seemed to stir the atmosphere, in that
region of silence. I paused as we rode over its surface; and such
was the absolute void of nature--such the settled silence of the
very atmosphere--that I felt oppressed, and moved forward to throw
off a feeling that my heart would cease to beat in the midst of this
pulseless creation.
Taking leave of the desert, our course turned more to the eastward, and
we began to enter a more mountainous territory. One evening, as the
sun went down, we saw before us a lofty peak, covered with snow. From
its top, issued a perpendicular column of dark smoke, which, at the
elevation of a few hundred feet, expanded into a thin cloud. Its shape
was that of a pine tree, divested of branches, except at the top.
We knew this mountain to be a volcano, and we gazed upon it with
intense interest. We soon arrived at a small village, and took up our
lodgings for the night. Being greatly fatigued, I retired early to bed,
and was speedily wrapped in profound repose. I was at length awaked by
a violent shaking, and the most terrific sounds I ever heard. I sprang
out of bed, and rushed to the window. The whole heavens seemed to be on
fire, and as I caught a view of the volcanic peak, I perceived that it
was vomiting forth torrents of lava, smoke and flame. The inhabitants
of the village were already in the street, and seemed to be frantic
with alarm, if not despair. I hurried on my clothes, and descended also
to the street.
The volcano was in full blast, rumbling to its foundation, and keeping
up at its mouth a roaring sound, like the continued discharge of
artillery. Amid the columns of black smoke that rose to the sky,
hundreds of rocks, red with heat, seemed shot upward, like blazing
rockets, while the molten lava--a river of fire--was seen pouring over
the edge of the crater, and making its way toward the village. But this
was not the greatest danger. The thick masses of snow and ice, around
the peak of the crater, were melted, and roaring torrents were already
bursting down the declivity.
The confused sound of the raging waters was audible, even amid the
thunder that shook the fabric of the mountains. The valley was situated
in a gorge, through which the river must pour its flood. Conscious
of the peril, the people were preparing for flight. But the danger
was even more near at hand than was anticipated. While I stood gazing
at the sublime pinnacle of the volcano, I heard a rush at a little
distance, and suddenly I perceived the tumbling waters gushing between
the houses and filling the narrow street. Most of the people had
already fled, and I followed in their train. Scarcely had we reached a
rocky eminence on the side of an adjacent ridge, when the whole village
was engulphed, and speedily swept away.
So sudden had been the alarm, so rapid our retreat, that I had not
saved a single article, except the clothes upon my back. My own horse,
as well as that of my guide, with every particle of baggage, money,
papers, letters--every vestige was swallowed up by the inundation; I
was even uncertain of the fate of my guide, till at last I discovered
him, half wild with terror, amid the throng that had now gathered upon
the cliff.
During the remainder of the night the volcano remained in violent
agitation, and the swollen torrent of water continued to flow down
its side and sweep over the buried village. One by one, the people
departed to seek shelter at a small town about two miles distant, and
when morning came, finding no hope of recovering my horse or baggage, I
followed the rest, and took up my lodgings at the post-house.