Working westward past Ivychurch, with its fine Perpendicular tower and
beacon-turret, Old and New Romney, Lydd (which was attached to the
Cinque Port of Romney), with its dignified Perpendicular church, of
which Cardinal Wolsey was once vicar, we come to Rye, which is just over
the border-land into Sussex, another of the towns annexed to the Cinque
Ports, though, sad to say, like Sandwich and Winchelsea, its prosperity
departed when the sea deserted it.
At Rye one cannot help but linger, there is so much to interest; its
unique position, its ancient standing, the almost incredible changes in
its surroundings owing to the receding of the sea, its chequered
history, its delightful, old-world look, and its venerable church of St.
Nicholas, all combine to arrest one's attention. Let us look for a few
moments at the church itself, which crowns the hill, and upon the tower
of which stands the vane depicted in my sketch. It was built towards the
close of the twelfth century, and Jeake, the historian, says of it that
it was "the goodliest edifice of the kind in Kent or Sussex, the
cathedrals excepted." Its first seven vicars were priests of the Church
of Rome, and in the church records there are some curious entries, which
look as though Passion plays were once performed in Rye. Here is one
dated 1522:--
"Paid for a coate made when the Resurrection was played at Easter, for
him that in playing represented the part of Almighty God, 1s.; ditto for
making the stage, 3s. 4d." During the reign of Edward VI. an entry is
made, which reads: "Expended for cleaning the church from Popery, L1
13s. 4d."
[Illustration: On Rye Chvrch]
If tradition be true, Queen Elizabeth (who once visited Rye) gave the
clock, which is said to be the oldest clock actually going in England.
Now for the weather-vane, which I venture to think is worthy of its
surroundings: it is simple in form, stately in proportion, and in
excellent preservation. Through the metal plate of the vane itself are
cut boldly, stencil fashion, the letters "A. R." (I was unable to find
out to whom they referred--presumably a churchwarden), and immediately
below them, the date 1703. The pointer is very thick and richly
foliated, and the wrought ironwork which supports the arms, which
indicate the four cardinal points of the compass, is excellent in
design.
[Illustration: On Winchelsea Chvrch.