Produced by Charles Klingman
A
NARRATIVE
OF THE
EXPEDITION
TO
DONGOLA AND SENNAAR,
UNDER THE
COMMAND OF HIS EXCELLENCE ISMAEL PASHA,
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF
HIS HIGHNESS MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, VICEROY OF EGYPT.
BY AN AMERICAN IN THE SERVICE OF THE VICEROY.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1822.
London: Printed by C. Roworth, Bell Yard Temple Bar
TO
HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S
CONSUL GENERAL IN EGYPT,
HENRY SALT, ESQ.
MY FATHERLY FRIEND IN A FOREIGN LAND,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, WITH
AFFECTIONATE RESPECT,
BY
THE AUTHOR:
AND RECOMMENDED TO THE KIND CARE AND PATRONAGE OF
JOHN WILLIAM BANKES, ESQ.
BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND AND SERVANT,
HENRY SALT.
By George Bethune English, General of Artillery in the U.S. Service
PREFACE
MEHEMMED ALI PASHA, the victorious pacificator of Egypt and Arabia, is
already renowned in the civilized world. Egypt, once the home of discord
and the headquarters of anarchy, under his administration has long
enjoyed peace and prosperity; is permeable in all directions, and
in perfect safety to the merchant and the traveler, and is yearly
progressing in wealth and improvement.[1]
The Viceroy has been particularly attentive to revive and extend those
commercial relations of Egypt with the surrounding countries, which once
rendered it the richest and most flourishing territory in the ancient
world.
A well chosen library of the best European books on the art military,
geography, astronomy, medicine, history, belles-lettres and the fine
arts has been purchased from Europe by the Viceroy and placed in
the palace of Ismael Pasha, where is also a school, at the Viceroy's
expense, for the instruction of the Mussulman youth in the Italian
language and the sciences of the Franks. To which establishments has
been lately added a printing press, for printing books in the Turkish,
Arabic and Persian languages, and a weekly newspaper in Arabic and
Italian. The library and the press are under the superintendence of
Osman Noureddin Effendi, a young Turk of great good sense, and who
is well versed in the literature of Europe, where he has resided for
several years, by order of the Viceroy, for his education: he is at
present engaged in translating into Turkish some works on tactics, for
the use of his countrymen.
For several years past the inland commerce of this favored land had
suffered great interruptions from the confusion and discord to which the
countries on the Upper Nile have been a prey. The chiefs of Shageia had
formed themselves into a singular aristocracy of brigands, and pillaged
all the provinces and caravans within their reach, without mercy and
without restraint; while the civil wars, which have distracted the
once powerful kingdom of Sennaar for these last eighteen years, had
occasioned an almost entire cessation of a commerce, from which Egypt
had derived great advantages.
His Highness the Viceroy, in consequence, determined, as the most
effectual means of putting an end to these disorders, to subject those
countries to his dominion.
Four thousand troops were accordingly put under the command of Ismael
Pasha, the youngest son of the Viceroy, with orders to conquer all the
provinces on the Nile, from the Second Cataract to Sennaar inclusive.
Through the influence of the recommendation of Henry Salt, Esq., His
Britannic Majesty's Consul General in Egypt, I was ordered by the
Viceroy to accompany this expedition, with the rank of Topgi Bashi,
i.e. a chief of artillery, and with directions to propose such plans of
operation to the Pasha Ismael as I should deem expedient, but which the
Pasha might adopt or reject as he should think proper.
This expedition has been perfectly successful; and the conquest of
the extensive and fertile countries, which, in the reign of Candace,
repulsed the formidable legions of Rome, has been effected at an expense
not greater than the blood of about two hundred soldiers.
The principal cause of a success so extraordinary, at such a price,
has been the humanity and good faith of the Pasha Ismael towards those
provinces that submitted without fighting. Perfect security of person
and property was assured to the peaceable, and severe examples were made
of those few of the soldiery, who, in a very few instances, presumed to
violate it. The good consequences of this deportment toward the people
of these countries have been evident. All have seen that those who have
preferred peace before war have had peace without war, and that those
who preferred war before peace have not had peace but at the price of
ruin.
The destruction or disarmament of the brigands, who have heretofore
pillaged those countries with impunity--the establishment of order
and tranquility--the security now assured to the peasants and the
caravans--and the annexment of so many fine provinces and kingdoms to
the sway of the Viceroy of Egypt,[2] are not the only consequences of this
expedition that will give him glory.
This expedition has laid open to the researches of the geographer and
the antiquarian a river and a country highly interesting, and hitherto
imperfectly known to the civilized world. The Nile, on whose banks we
have marched for so many hundred miles, is the most famous river in
the world, for the uncertainty of its source and the obscurity of its
course. At present this obscurity ceases to exist, and before the return
of the Pasha Ismael this uncertainty will probably be no more. The
countries we have traversed are renowned in history and poetry as
the land of ancient and famous nations, which have established and
overthrown mighty empires, and have originated the religions, the
learning, the arts, and the civilization of nations long since extinct;
and who have been preceded by their instructors in the common road which
every thing human must travel.
This famous land of Cush and Saba, at present overawed by the camps
of the Osmanii, has presented to our observation many memorials of the
power and splendor of its ancient masters. The remains of cities once
populous--ruined temples once magnificent--colossal statues of
idols once adored, but now prostrated by the strong arms of time and
truth--and more than a hundred pyramids, which entomb the bodies of
kings and conquerors once mighty, but whose memory has perished, have
suspended for awhile the march of our troops--have attracted the
notice of the Franks, who voyage with the army with the favor and the
protection of the Pasha,[3] and which doubtless ere long, by engaging the
attention and researches of men of learning, will unite the names of
Mehemmed Ali and Ismael his son with the history and monuments of this
once famous and long secluded land, in a manner that will make the
memory of both renowned and inseparable.
That the further progress of the Pasha Ismael southward of his present
position will be successful, there is every reason to believe; and I
derive great pleasure from the reflection, that his success will still
further augment the glory of the man whom the Sultan delights to honor,
and who has done so much for the honor of the Mussulmans.
The Reader will find that I have sometimes, in the course of this
Journal, included the events of several days in the form of narrative,
particularly in my account of the Second Cataract. Wherever I have so
done, it has been occasioned by paroxysms of a severe ophthalmia, which
afflicted me for fifteen months, and rendered me at times incapable of
writing.
A NARRATIVE
&c. &c. &c.
I arrived at the camp at Wady Haifa on the Second Cataract, on the 16th
of the moon Zilhadge, in the year of the Hegira 3255,[4] where I found
about four thousand troops,[5] consisting of Turkish cavalry, infantry and
artillery, and a considerable proportion of Bedouin cavalry and Mogrebin
foot soldiers, besides about one hundred and twenty large boats loaded
with provisions and ammunition, and destined to follow the march of the
army to the upper countries of the Nile.
17th of Zilhadge. Presented myself to his Excellency the Pasha Ismael,
by whom I was received in a very nattering manner, and presented with a
suit of his own habiliments.
On my asking his Excellency if he had any orders for me, he replied,
that he was at present solely occupied in expediting the loading and
forwarding the boats carrying the provisions of the army, but that when
that was finished he would send for me to receive his commands.
I employed this interval in noticing the assemblage that composed the
army. The chiefs and soldiers I found well disposed to do their duty,
through attachment to their young commander and through fear of Mehemmed
Ali. They were alert to execute what orders they received, and very busy
in smoking their pipes when they had nothing else to do.
On the 19th I was sent for by the Pasha, with whom I remained in private
audience for an hour.
On the 21st of the moon Zilhadge was attacked by that distressing malady
the ophthalmia. In two days the progress of the disorder was such
that my eyes were closed up and incapable of supporting the light, and
occasioned me such acute anguish that I could get no sleep but by
the effect of laudanum. This misfortune at this crisis was peculiarly
vexatious and mortifying for me, as it put it out of my power to
accompany the Pasha, who departed with the army for Dongola on the 26th,
taking his route on the west bank of the river, and leaving the Divan
Effendi and a small party of soldiers to expedite the loading and
forwarding the boats that had not as yet got ready to proceed up the
Cataract.
On the 3d of Mofiarram, A. H. 1236, I embarked on board the boat of the
Frank surgeons attached to the army, and left the lower or north end
of the Second Cataract as it is commonly styled in the maps, in company
with fifteen boats to follow and rejoin the army.
I would here observe that what is called the Second Cataract is properly
a succession of partial falls and swift rapids for more than a hundred
miles before we arrived at Succoot. I counted nine; some of them,
particularly the second,[6] fifth,[7] seventh,[8] and ninth,[9] very
dangerous to pass, though at this time the Nile had fallen but a few
feet. Before we arrived at the fifth, two boats were wrecked against the
rocks which crowd the rapids, and one filled and sunk; and before we had
passed the ninth several similar accidents had taken place. To pass the
fifth and ninth rapids, it was necessary to employ about a hundred men
to drag the boats one after another against the current. At the fifth
pass, several of the boats were damaged, and two soldiers and two
boatmen drowned. At this pass, the river is interrupted by a ledge of
rocks reaching nearly across, and over which the Nile falls. Between
this ledge of rocks and the western shore of the river is a practicable
passage, wide enough to admit a boat to be hauled up the current, which
here runs furiously. Overlooking this passage are two hills, one on the
east and one on the west side of the river: on these hills are the ruins
of ancient fortifications. They are also surmounted by two small temples
in the Egyptian style: that on the west side is almost perfect. It is
sculptured exteriorly and interiorly with figures and hieroglyphics, and
the ceiling is painted azure.[10]
The appearance of the country on each side of the falls is similar to
that of the country south of Assuan--a sandy desert studded with rocky
hills and mountains, The only appearance of vegetation observable was
in some of the islands and on the immediate banks of the river, where
we met at every mile or two with small spots of fertile ground, some
of them cultivated and inhabited. The rocky hills consist frequently
of beautiful black granite, of the color and brilliancy of the best
sea-coal. Here and there, at different points on the Cataract, I
observed some forts built by the natives of the country. They are
constructed of unhewn stones cemented with mud, and flanked by towers
and angular projections something resembling bastions, and are pierced
with loopholes for musquetry. Their interior presents the following
appearance:--against the interior side of the walls all round are built
low chambers, communicating by small doors with the area and frequently
with each other. I could observe nothing in these chambers except the
bottom part of the small handmills used by the Orientals to grind meal,
which could not be hastily removed as they were fixed in the ground;
every thing else the inhabitants had carried off on the approach of the
army. The great area in the centre of these forts appeared to have been
occupied by the camels and flocks of the inhabitants; some of these
forts are to be seen surmounting the high rocky islands with which the
Second Cataract abounds, and make a picturesque appearance.
On the 2d of the moon Safa, we passed what our Rais erroneously told us
was the last rapid between us and Succoot. We have been thirty days in
getting thus far,[11] the causes of our having been so long in getting up
the Falls were several. The crews of the boats which had passed unhurt
a dangerous passage were frequently detained to unload and repair
those which had been wrecked or damaged.--We have been detained at the
entrances of these rapids frequently for several days, for want of a
sufficient wind, it being absolutely necessary that the wind should be
very strong to enable the boats to force themselves through currents
running between the rocks with dreadful rapidity; and more than once the
boatmen have hesitated to attempt a dangerous pass till obliged by the
presence and menaces of the Divan Effendi who accompanied the boats.
On the 3d of Safa, about an hour after we had passed what our Rais told
us was the last rapid of consequence we should have to encounter, we saw
the wreck of a boat lying against a rock in the middle of the river, her
masts alone appearing out of the water. The river here is interrupted
by several high insulated rocks. We had been assured that we should
now find the river open and without difficulty, till we should come
to Succoot; the appearance of this boat seemed to contradict this
representation, and in about an hour after we had abundant reason to be
satisfied that it was false. I was congratulating myself that we had got
into smooth water, and indulging myself with a tranquil pipe of tobacco,
when suddenly the wind slackened just as we were passing between two
ledges of rocks where the river was running at the rate of about six
knots an hour. The current overpowered the effort of the sails, and
carried the boat directly among the reefs, near the west bank of
the river. After remaining for about ten minutes in a very perilous
position, the skill of our Rais happily got the boat to shore without
injury.
3d of Safa. We remained all night at the place where we landed; in
the morning got under sail to pass the strong current we had attempted
yesterday without success. After buffeting about for an hour we were
forced to return to the bank of the river, and await a stronger wind. In
about an hour after the wind freshened and we got under way with better
fortune, and after passing the current before mentioned found ourselves
in smooth water. After sailing for an hour we stopped for ten minutes
at a place where we saw sheep, in order to purchase some, having for
the last twenty days been obliged to live on bread, rice, and lentils.
Succeeded in purchasing two lambs. The banks of the river hereabouts
present some fertile spots, a few of them cultivated. About noon the
wind fell and the Rais put to shore; we immediately set our domestics
about preparing the purchased meat, and shortly after we sat down to
this regale, which appeared to me the most delicious meal I had eaten
for many years.[12] Remained here for the remainder of the day.
4th of Safa. Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient
wind to ascend the river. About two hours after noon arrived an Arab
from above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few miles
below us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of the
crew, had been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to pass
a rapid. I demanded of him "how many rapids there were yet ahead;" he
replied "that there were several; how many he did not exactly know."
This intelligence made me apprehensive that we might be another month in
getting through these obstacles, and determined me to renew my efforts
to obtain camels and proceed to the Pasha by land. I had made several
attempts to hire some for this purpose, during the last fifteen days,
without success. The man above mentioned informed me that I could
probably obtain some at a village about six hours off. I determined to
send my servants on the morrow to inquire.
5th of Safa. Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning
a favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail. Was
obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind
held. Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them
cultivated, and a few small villages. I was informed that these will
become more frequent as we proceed. During this day, with a favorable
wind, made only about twelve miles against the current.
6th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong
breeze from the northward. About half an hour after quitting the land,
passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching nearly
across the river. In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half a
minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven
feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened,
and forced the boat up the current, to the great relief of all on board.
An hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by
a high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications
made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is
a fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and
plantations.
Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids
of formidable appearance being right ahead.[13] We have made about eight
miles to-day. Saw about two miles above us a number of boats lying to
the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just mentioned. About the
middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, saw a crocodile;
it was small, about three feet in length. When I came upon him, he was
sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with great rapidity
and plunged into the river.
7th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the
rocks and rapids already mentioned. The passage was dangerous, and the
boat thrice in imminent peril. We struck once on rocks under water,
where the current was running probably at the rate of six knots an hour.
The current, after about ten minutes, swept the boat off without having
received a hole in her bottom, otherwise we must probably have perished.
Shortly after we were jammed between a great shallow whirlpool and a
large boat on our starboard beam. This boat was dashed by the current
against ours, and menaced to shove her into the whirlpool. The long
lateen yards of the two boats got entangled, and I was prepared to leap
into the other boat, in anticipation of the destruction of ours, when
the wind freshened, and the large boat was enabled to get clear of ours.
Not long after, the same boat fell aboard of us the second time, in
a place where, if our boat had drifted twice her length to leeward or
astern, she must have run upon rocks. All these accidents befell us,
having under our eyes, at no great distance from us, the wreck of a boat
lost in this passage three or four days ago.[14] After being for about two
hours in danger, the boat arrived at the west bank of the river, where
we found many more waiting a sufficient wind to be enabled to clear the
remainder of the rapid, which runs very strong here.
Stayed for a wind at this place two days. On the 10th of Safa, the boat
happily passed the remainder of the rapid, when the wind calmed, and
the Rais put to shore, there being yet a strong current to surmount.
Opposite to the place where we were, at about half a mile from the
shore, a boat had stuck fast upon some rocks this morning, all attempts
to get her off had proved unsuccessful, and she remained in that
position, with all her company on board, till next morning.
11th of Safa. Quitted the shore about an hour after sunrise, with a fine
northerly wind. Passed the boat just mentioned, whose people looked
very forlorn. Some small boats were then on the way to unload this boat,
should it be found impossible to disengage her. Proceeded on our way,
and passed a number of small but pretty islands, lying near the west
bank of the river. They are cultivated and inhabited by a considerable
population. The country on the borders of the river begins to assume a
better appearance--the territory of Succoot, which we were now entering,
containing many villages. Beyond the green banks of the river, all
is yellow desert, spotted with brown rocky mountains, which, however,
appeared to decrease in number and height as we advanced up the river,
till the country subsided into a plain, with a few isolated mountains of
singular forms and picturesque appearance here and there in view.
About two hours after mid-day we arrived at a place where the river
is embarrassed by small rocks and shoals, except a narrow pass on the
western side. We found the current here too strong to be surmounted by
the aid of what wind we had, and therefore put to shore on a very
fine island on our left. We passed the remainder of the day here
with satisfaction. This island is about a mile and a half in length,
naturally beautiful, and well cultivated by about fifty or sixty
inhabitants, who seemed to be well contented with their situation.[15]
We saw here three men of about twenty-five years of age, who had been
circumcised but five days past, a thing I had never before known to have
occurred to the children of Mussulmans.
12th of Safa. At an early hour, quitted the shore with a strong
northerly wind, to pass the current which had stopped us yesterday. This
day's sail was the most agreeable of any we had enjoyed since we left
Egypt, the river, since we had passed the rapids of Dall, (where the
second cataract of the Nile properly commences,) having become as
broad as in Egypt, and now flowing tranquilly through a country equally
fertile, and much more picturesque than the finest parts of Said.
The eastern bank of the river, particularly, presented a continual
succession of villages, and fine soil crowded with trees, and all
cultivated. Passed, during the day, some fine and large islands, also
occupied by numerous villages. We stopped at night at one of these
islands, by whose beautiful borders we had been sailing with great
pleasure for more than four hours, with a stiff breeze. We were in
formed by the inhabitants, that this island was a day's walk in breadth.
They said, that, as we advanced, we should find others as large and
larger. Their island, they told us, was called Syee. They appeared to be
well satisfied with their condition, having an abundance of every thing
absolutely needful for a comfortable subsistence, and decent clothing of
their own manufacture. What surprised me not a little, was to find the
people as white as the Arabs of Lower Egypt, whereas the inhabitants of
Nubia are quite black, though their features are not those of the Negro.
I have observed, that the country through which we passed to-day, was
as fertile and much more picturesque than the Said. The reason for the
latter part of this assertion is, that in the Said the view is limited
by the ridges of barren and calcined mountains that bound it on both
sides, whereas here the view ranges over plains bounded only by the
horizon, and interspersed here and there with isolated mountains of most
singular forms. Some of them might be mistaken for pyramids, they are
so regular and well defined; some resembled lofty cones, and others
resembled lofty square or pentagonal redoubts. One of the latter
description lies upon the eastern bank of the river, and could easily
be made an impregnable fortress, which could command all water
communication between Egypt and Dongola. The scenes of verdure and
cultivation through which we had passed today, removed all suspicions
from my mind as to what had been reported to me of the great difference
between Nubia and the country beyond it.
All the villages we have passed to-day, have in their centre a fort or
castle, fortified with towers at the corners, and, judging from those
we visited, resembling in their interior those on the cataract already
described. The village, consisting of low huts, built of mud, is built
round the walls of the fort, which is intended to serve as a place of
retreat and defense for the inhabitants and their flocks, in case of
alarm or attack. They are governed in the manner of the families of the
patriarchs, the Sheck of the village being both judge and captain.
Saw at this island a small skiff, the first boat belonging to the
inhabitants of the country that I have seen since quitting Wady Halfa.
12th of Safa, Parted from the land about an hour after sunrise and
proceeded on our voyage, which was, if possible, still more agreeable
than that of yesterday. On the east bank of the river, the eye rests
on a continued succession of villages, occupying land of the finest
quality, and lying under a continued forest of palm trees, larger and
taller, in my opinion, than those growing in Egypt. On the right we
saw, as we passed, a chain of beautiful islands, some of them large
and presenting the same spectacle as the east bank. It is certainly a
beautiful country. The river from Assuan has only about half the breadth
that it has in Egypt. In this country it is as broad, and in many
places, on account of the large islands it here contains, very much
broader than it is in Egypt. We stopped at night at one of these fine
islands, whose breadth being but about two miles, enabled us to have a
view of the west bank of the river, which presented the same succession
of villages and cultivation as on the oriental side. I have already
observed, that the date trees of this country were larger and taller
than those in Egypt. We found a similar difference in the animals of
this country; I purchased a sucking lamb, which was certainly as big as
an Egyptian sheep of a year's growth. The cattle of this country differ
from those of Egypt, in bearing, as to form, a resemblance to the
buffalo. They have a rising on the shoulder, and a similar form of the
hips. They are also larger than the cows of Egypt.
14th of Safa. The wind did not spring up this morning till a late hour,
and after continuing for about an hour and a half, fell calm. We put to
shore on the western bank of the river, where we passed the remainder
of the day and the night. The country continued fine and crowded with
villages. At this place, some of the boat's company attempted to shoot
a hippopotamus, who had shown himself several times during the day. They
succeeded only in slightly wounding him, after which he disappeared. The
people of the country say that there are twelve that frequent this place
in the river, which contains here some low islands, well adapted to
afford them food and concealment.
16th of Safa. Parted from the land about two hours after sunrise, with
a strong breeze. After continuing an hour and a half the wind subsided
into a calm, which obliged us to make for the shore. We landed on a
large island resembling those already mentioned, where we passed the
remainder of the day and the night. The country we had passed resembled
that below, beautiful, and as fertile as land can be.
16th of Safa. Left the land about an hour after sunrise, and in half an
hour passed the southern boundary of the beautiful territory of Succoot,
and entered the province of Machass. The country we were now passing is
naturally fertile, but has not such a continued succession of villages
as Succoot. About three hours after sunrise came in view of the ruins
of an ancient temple on the west bank. With some difficulty engaged the
Rais to put to shore for a few minutes, to give me an opportunity of
visiting it. This temple is manifestly of Egyptian architecture; it is
about two hundred feet long from east to west; ten of the columns only
are standing; they are composed of separate blocks of a brown stone
resembling that employed in the construction of the temples in the isle
of Philoe. The walls of this temple are in ruins, except a part of the
front which is in a very dilapidated state. The front faces the
East; the pillars and the ruins of the walls are sculptured with
hieroglyphics. It stands on the west bank of the river about two miles
beyond the territory of Succoot. About an hour after leaving this place,
the wind falling, our Rais was obliged to put to shore. We soon arrived
at the western bank of the river, the Nile being in this place not a
mile broad. The remainder of the day being calm, we staid here till next
morning. Several of the Pasha's Cavalry passed along the west bank of
the river yesterday and to-day, bearing repeated orders from Dongola to
the commanders of the boats to hasten their progress.
17th of Safa. At an early hour started with a favorable wind, but in
about two hours were obliged to put to shore. The river hereabouts makes
several turns almost at right angles with each other. This circumstance
brought the wind directly ahead in one of the bends and obliged us to
remain there till next morning. The country we saw to-day is not equal
to the territory of Succoot; the date trees, the villages, and the
cultivation are not so continued; and the view from the river is bounded
at a little distance from its banks by low rocky hills. Saw to-day
a singular mode of navigating the river; a man, who apparently was
traveling down the river with his whole family, had placed his youngest
wife and her two young children on a small raft made of bundles of
corn-stalks lashed together, he himself swam by its side to guide it,
while he kept his old wife a swimming and pushing it by the stern, and
in this way they proceeded down the river.
I have seen in this country small rafts made to carry one person, which
are very well contrived. Three or four large empty gourds are fastened
firmly to a small oblong frame made out of the branches of the date
tree, the whole not weighing two pounds. A man may go safely down or
across the river on this, either by fastening it to his breast and
swimming supported by it, or by riding on it astride; and when on shore
he can carry it with ease either in his hand or on his shoulder.
18th of Safa, In the morning found that the wind had changed a little
in our favor, got under way, but after sailing for about two hours the
winding of the river again brought it ahead. Put to shore and staid
there till the middle of the afternoon, when the wind again hauled a
little in our favor, and with some difficulty we got to windward of the
shore and proceeded up the river. The river here is about half a mile
broad, and makes several turns which somewhat retarded our progress.
We observed some rocks and shoals, and on arriving at a place where the
river is divided by a large rocky island, observed a boat aground, which
had taken the right hand passage which was the broadest, and two others
turning back to take the passage on the other side of this island. We
followed their example, and found the passage safe enough. A little
beyond the upper end of this island the river makes an acute angle to
the right hand. We proceeded onwards till sunset, when we put to shore
in company with two other boats. The country we have passed through
to-day resembled that we saw yesterday, inferior to the fine territory
of Succoot.
19th of Safa, Left the land an hour and a half after sunrise, with a
fine breeze from the north. Sailed for about an hour through a country
where the rocky hills come down here and there close to the river
banks and narrowed the usual breadth of the Nile considerably. Observed
however in this tract of country a few fine and cultivated islands.
Shortly after the river widened, the rocky hills retired at a distance,
and the eye rested with pleasure on a beautiful country cultivated by
the inhabitants of a continued succession of villages and castles which
occupied both banks of the river. The country resembled the province of
Succoot, except that the date trees were not so numerous nor so tall and
large. Passed the ruins of a considerable fortified town situated on a
high hill on the west bank. A little beyond this place saw the ruins of
a temple; four of the columns are yet standing; could not go ashore to
examine it, as the wind was fair and strong, and the Rais under positive
orders to proceed with all expedition. Observed that several of the
castles we had passed yesterday and to-day appeared newer and better
constructed for defense than those we had seen along the Cataract.
I suspect that they were erected under the direction of the exiled
Mamalukes, as this tract forms a part of the territory subject to them
before the arrival of the Pasha Ismael. Continued to advance, through
a country very beautiful, the river here embosoming several large and
delightful islands, capable of being made, by the hands of enlightened
industry, every thing that the art of man operating upon a fine soil
under a soft climate could effect. We sailed pleasantly by these
charming shores and islands till an hour and a half before sunset,
when we came in view of a rapid ahead, and the wreck of a boat lost in
passing it. The Rais put to shore, and after taking on board a native
of the country to show him the passage through the rocks and shallows,
attempted to pass immediately; the effort was unsuccessful. After
remaining in the foaming passage for three quarters of an hour, we
found that the wind was not strong enough to force the boat through the
current, and as the sun was about setting and the wind falling, the Rais
was obliged to let the boat drift back to the shore from whence we had
departed.
18th of Safa. At about two hours after sunrise, the Rais thought the
wind sufficiently favorable and strong to carry the boat through the
rapid. We quitted the shore, and again faced the current. The Rais this
time was not mistaken; our boat forced her way slowly but victoriously
through the torrent, and in about three quarters of an hour carried us
safely into smooth water, where we could draw every advantage from a
fine wind, which swept us rapidly up the river between shores fertile
and cultivated by the inhabitants of a continued succession of villages
shaded by palm trees. About an hour after we had passed the rapid, we
stopped to receive on board three of our company who had left the boat
yesterday in search of fresh provisions on the western bank of the
river. They reported that they had seen a large pond of fresh water
inland, and had found the country for seven miles from the river crowded
with villages, and as fertile as possible. They represented that this
country was watered by two ranges of water-wheels; one range on the
bank of the river, which threw the water of the Nile into small canals
leading to reservoirs inland, from whence the other range took it up and
distributed it to this fine territory. About noon we passed, on the
east bank, two very high, large and isolated rocks of irregular and
picturesque forms. On the side of the southernmost were the remains of
a considerable fortified town. The country hereabouts is very beautiful.
About three o'clock we passed another rapid, which was not however very
difficult. Found the river beyond this place much narrowed and impeded
by rocks. Passed two more rapids, the first of little consequence, but
the latter somewhat dangerous. In this last rapid saw two boys sitting
on a raft made of cornstalks lashed together, and driving down the
current. They appeared to be much at their ease, and not at all alarmed
at the rapid, though the current frequently whirled their fragile raft
round and round as it rushed past us. Soon after passing this rapid the
sun set, and we put to shore to pass the night.
19th of Safa. About two hours after sunrise we left the shore with a
fair and fresh breeze. The river here is broad, and the country on both
banks fertile and peopled. After about an hour's sail we came up with
some beautiful islands, one of them very large and among the finest we
had seen. The islands above the Second Cataract are probably the most
beautiful spots watered by the Nile, which rarely over flows them. They
are the most populous and best cultivated parts of this country. Half
an hour after we came up with the large island, the wind became squally,
and the boat could not make safe progress. Our rais therefore put
to shore, as did those of five other boats in company with ours. We
remained here for the rest of the day.
20th of Safa. In the morning, left the laud with the wind almost ahead.
After sailing about three miles, the rais found it necessary to put to
shore, as the wind was strong and too much ahead. Stayed by the land
till nearly noon, when the wind appearing to me and others on board,
more favorable, we, after some hard words with the rais, persuaded him
to get under way, the wind being about the same as in the morning, and
very strong. In about an hour we arrived at a bend in the river, which
enabled us to bring the wind aft.
We proceeded with great rapidity, threading the rocks and shoals with
which the river here abounds, till we came in view of a rapid ahead.
We had been informed, two days ago, that there was a dangerous rapid
between us and Dongola, and we congratulated ourselves that the wind was
fair and strong to push us through it; we passed it happily, though
not without peril. We felicitated ourselves on having cleared the only
obstacle, as we supposed, between us and the place of our destination,
when we came in view of another, of a more formidable appearance than
any we had yet seen. The passage lay where the river rolled furiously
over rocks under water, and between shores there was no approaching, on
account of the shoals and rocks above and under water which lined them.
The strong wind forced our boat alongside of another that was struggling
and reeling in the passage, to the imminent danger of both. To clear
this boat, our rais ventured to pass ours over a place where the
foam and fury of the water indicated latent rocks. We hardly dared to
breathe, but we did not strike here, but half a minute after we were
fast upon a sand bank. We stayed in this condition for about a quarter
of an hour, having in view close by us the wreck of a boat lost here.
With considerable difficulty our boat was disengaged, when we put her
before the wind and again faced this truly infernal pass. By the force
of the current, the boat neared a large and furious whirlpool, formed by
an eddy on the side of the passage. The steersman endeavored, in vain,
to counteract this drift of the boat by the aid of the rudder. The side
of the boat approached to within a yard of the white foam which covered
this dreadful spot. Our rais tore his turban from his head, and lifted
his clasped hands to Heaven, exclaiming, "We are lost!" The rest of the
boatmen were screaming to God and the prophet for aid, when, I know not
how, but by the good Providence that watched over us, the boat cleared
this peril, and others that beset us in passing yet two more rapids
almost as dangerous. On passing the last, we found the river divided
lengthways, by a ridge of rocks and low islands covered with verdure.
On the right or west side of this ridge, where we were, the view ahead
presented our side of the river crowded with rocks, which we could not
pass. The singular ridge already mentioned, presented, however, some
gaps, which afforded passages into that part of the river that was on
the other side of this ridge. We passed through what appeared to us
the safest of these gaps, and soon after found ourselves in smooth but
shallow water: the river hereabouts being not less than five or six
miles broad, and spotted with rocks and little green islands and ridges.
Soon after, a boat ahead grounded, and stuck fast for some time: about
five minutes after, our boat received a violent shock from a rock under
water. The rais put the boat under her foresail only, in order that in
case she struck, it might be with as little force as possible. Shortly
after, it being about an hour before sunset, the rais put to shore to
inquire of the people of the country as to the condition of the river
ahead.
The country we saw this day, on both sides of the river, is a level
plain; only one hill was visible. The shores, and many of the islands
we passed to-day, were such as we should have contemplated with greater
pleasure, if we could have employed our eyes and thoughts upon any thing
beside the perils by which we were environed. They are fertile, verdant,
and in many places truly picturesque.
We put to shore this day, as said before, about an hour before sunset.
When we disembarked, we found ourselves upon a large and beautiful
island, almost covered with trees of various kinds. The view from this
island ranges over an immense green plain, bounded only by the horizon,
and presents a great river winding in several branches through islands
and shores composed of as fine a soil as any in the world, and covered
with trees, among which the date tree bore a small proportion. Dongola,
we were told, was but a few hours distant from this place.
21st of Safa. At sunrise, quitted the land and proceeded up the river,
which we found very wide and shallow. Its middle was occupied by an
almost continual range of islands, in my opinion without superior in any
river whatever.[16] The country bounding the river is a beautiful plain,
as far as the eye can reach, as fertile as land can be, and covered with
a great variety of trees, plants, and fields of corn. We sailed on with
a fair wind till within half an hour of sunset, without coming in sight
of Dongola. This, after the information we had received yesterday,
somewhat disappointed us, but we consoled ourselves by observing the
islands and shores we were passing, comparable to which, in point of
luxuriant fertility, Egypt itself cannot show. The whole country is
absolutely overwhelmed with the products of the very rich soil of which
it consists.
22d of Safa. Quitted the land at an early hour and proceeded up the
river, in hourly expectation of coming in view of Dongola, which we had
been given to understand was a considerable town. After sailing with a
good wind till the middle of the afternoon, without seeing any thing but
a very fertile country, resembling that we passed yesterday, the people
on shore, on our landing and demanding whereabouts Dongola was, informed
us that we were in Dongola, meaning the country so called. On our asking
where was the city or town of Dongola, they pointed to a large village
in the distance on the west bank of the river, and told us that village
was called "New Dongola," and that Old Dongola was farther up the river.
They informed us that the Pasha had left a guard of twenty-four soldiers
here, and had proceeded with the army three days' march farther up
the river, where we should find him. We determined to proceed to his
encampment. We saw to-day, for the first time, a small sail boat,
constructed by the people of the country; it was very clumsy, resembling
a log canoe. The river, in some places which we passed to-day, appeared
to be about three miles from bank to bank, but shallow; the islands and
shores presenting the same spectacle of luxuriant vegetation that we saw
yesterday.
We bought a lamb of three weeks old, this evening, whose mother was as
tall as a calf of two months old. This species of sheep is hairy, and
has no wool. The kidneys of this lamb were large enough to cover the
palm of my hand, though the animal was undoubtedly undiseased.
23d of Safa. Got under way shortly after sunrise, and proceeded up the
river with a fine wind, which lasted during the day, and carried us
probably thirty miles on our way. The country through which we passed
to-day is not so good as that we saw yesterday; the desert comes down to
the banks of the river in several places. We saw many villages, but for
the last two days have observed none of those castles so frequent in
the lower country. About an hour and a half after we quitted the land,
passed a fortified town on the west bank of the river, which appeared to
be mostly in ruins. On our landing, at night, we endeavored to purchase
some provisions, but the people of the country could only spare us some
milk and vegetables, for which they would not take money, but demanded
flour. On our consenting to this proposition, they brought us an
abundance of the articles above mentioned. They informed us that there
was a town called Dongola, containing about three hundred houses, at
the distance of two days' sail from this place, and that the Pasha was
encamped three days' march in advance of Dongola.
24th of Safa. Left the shore this morning shortly after sunrise, and
proceeded on our voyage. The country we passed through this day was, on
the west bank of the river, fine, but on the east bank the desert was
visible at a little distance from the river almost all the day. Passed
two considerable fortified towns, situated on the left bank of the
river; they were almost in ruins. An hour before sunset we put to shore
on the west bank, where we found a fertile and cultivated country. The
people who occupied it, said that they had settled here a year ago; the
island they had occupied before having been overflowed by the river, and
their plantations destroyed.
25th of Safa. This day made but little progress, there having been a
calm for more than half the day; what country we saw resembled that
passed yesterday.
26th of Safa. Remained fast by the shore for the whole of this day, the
wind being ahead. The country on the west bank of the river, where we
stopped, is fine, but deserted by the inhabitants. Some of the boat's
company, who went up the country in search of provisions, reported that
they had seen the ruins of a temple, containing fragments of columns
of black granite. I determined, in case the wind on the morrow should
continue unfavorable, to visit this place. They also had met a party of
fifteen armed men, who informed them that they belonged to this country,
but had been compelled to quit it, and fly, by the brigands of Shageia,
who had infested and ravaged the country, but had returned on hearing
that the Pasha Ismael had defeated and expelled these robbers, and had
invited every fugitive peasant to return home, giving them assurance of
future safety and protection. We were alarmed this evening by the report
of several musket shot, which appeared to come from the other side of
the river, where, we had been told, still lurked some of the brigands.
Prepared our arms to be ready in case of attack, but passed the night
unmolested.
27th of Safa. Early in the morning, quitted the shore with a fair wind,
and proceeded on our voyage; Dongola being, we were told, but half a
day's distance from us. The appearance of the country still the same.
28th of Safa. Made but little way today, the wind being light. About the
middle of the afternoon, put to shore on the east bank of the river,
as there appeared to be no villages in sight on the other shore, and we
were in want of provisions. The country we saw to-day is very good, and
covered with trees, but sparely inhabited.
The country where we landed was, however, tolerably well cultivated by
the inhabitants of several villages hereabouts. The soil, where it was
not cultivated, was completely covered with trees, generally of no great
height, and with bushes and long rank grass. The habitations of many
of the inhabitants could with difficulty be found; they are frequently
nothing but a rough arbor formed in the thickets. We had continual
reason to be surprised, that a country naturally so rich should be so
thinly populated and so carelessly cultivated. The people, however,
appeared to be content with raising enough for their subsistence, and
to desire nothing beyond this. Our money they did not value; they would
give us nothing for money, but the flour of Egypt readily obtained what
they could spare.