recommending to epicures those delicious preparations. It was asserted,
besides, that the quince possessed the most beneficial
qualities,[XIII-11] first, as an aliment, and next, as a
counter-poison:[XIII-12] _gourmandise_ made the mind docile, and none
doubted its marvellous virtues.
This fruit, so much extolled, was preserved by placing it with its
branches and leaves in a vessel, afterwards filled with honey or sweet
wine, which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition.[XIII-13]
PEAR TREE.
Many countries have disputed the honour of having given birth to the
pear tree. According to some it was a native of Mount Ida, so renowned
for its refreshing fountains; others said Alexandria; and in the opinion
of some writers it came from different parts of Greece. Let us add to
this enumeration Palestine, where this tree grew at a very remote
period.[XIII-14]
It results from these different allegations that the ancients were
acquainted with the pear tree; that they cultivated and were fond of
pears, which is not at all surprising, as they are an excellent fruit.
Theophrastus was very fond of them; he speaks of them very
often,[XIII-15] and always with praise. The same thing may be affirmed
of Pliny,[XIII-16] and more particularly of Galen, whose medical
authority was formerly of so much weight. The learned physician of
Pergamo is pleased to recognise in the pear strengthening qualities
which benefit the stomach, and an astringent virtue which the apple does
not possess in the same degree.[XIII-17]
Like us, the Greeks and Romans distinguished several kinds of this
fruit, whose names indicated their taste and forms. It is not certain
whether they possessed the _Bon Chrétien_, which honours our tables in
winter, either raw or cooked. This name reminds us of its origin, which
we will relate.
Louis XI., King of France, had sent for Saint François de Paule from the
lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through
his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear, and
as he was called at court _Le Bon Chrétien_, this fruit received the
name of him to whom France owed its introduction.[XIII-18]
APPLE TREE.
A very ancient tradition--for it is six thousand years old--represents
the apple as being, from the beginning of the world, the inauspicious
fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind. We crave
permission to defend it from this accusation, merely by these few words,
“That it is nowhere written.”
The holy books rarely speak of the apple tree. If we are not mistaken,
it is only mentioned in five passages[XIII-19] of the sacred writings,
and at periods very distant from the first offence of man. Therefore,
nothing indicates aversion or contempt on the part of the inspired
writers for this tree, which on one occasion serves even as a graceful
term of comparison;[XIII-20] from which it might be concluded that the
inhabitants of the east thought as much of it as other nations.
There is one (and perhaps only one) example of a singular and excessive
repugnance to apples. It is said that Uladislas, King of Poland, no
sooner perceived them than he became so confused and terrified that he
immediately fled. It certainly required very little to disturb this poor
prince!
Greece produced very beautiful apple trees, and their fruit was so
excellent, that it was the favourite dessert of Philip of Macedon, and
of his son, Alexander the Great, who caused them to be served at all
their meals.[XIII-21] Probably they were obtained purposely for them
from the island of Eubœa, which enjoyed an extraordinary reputation
for apples.[XIII-22]
The Athenian legislator--the wise Solon--almost succeeded in throwing
discredit on this aliment, so much liked by his fellow-citizens, by a
sumptuary law which he thought it necessary to establish.
The inhabitants of Attica were fond of good living; and when one of them
took a wife he spared no expense to give splendour to the nuptial
banquet--a very excusable pride on such an occasion. Solon was in the
habit of interfering rather too much in the affairs of others. Every one
has his failing, and this was _his_: he imagined that his fellow
citizens fared too sumptuously on their wedding-day; and, in order to
curtail an expense contrary to his ideas of economy, he ordered that
the bridegroom should be content with a single apple, while his guests
were regaling themselves at his expense. Who would believe it? This law
was religiously observed by the Greeks, and the Persians thought it so
original that they, in their turn, adopted it.[XIII-23]
The Latins gave a favourable reception to the apple tree, and cultivated
it with care. Eminent citizens of Rome did not disdain to give their
names and patronage to different kinds procured by themselves, or which
they had improved in their orchards. The Manlian apples were so called
after Manlius; the Claudian after Claudius, their patron; the Appian
owed their name to Appius. Some others preserved that of their native
country: such were the Sidonians, the Greeks, and the Epirotes.
After the conquest of Gaul, the Romans introduced all these
fruits;[XIII-24] and as the climate was more favourable to apple trees
than that of Italy, they soon multiplied to a surprising extent. France
ought to be grateful to those proud warriors for a present that enriched
that province of the empire, and which perhaps still contributes to its
prosperity.
LEMON TREE.
Among the richest productions of Media, Virgil mentions a tree, to whose
fruit he attributes the greatest virtues against all poisons. The
description he gives of it seems to belong to the lemon tree.[XIII-25]
However this may be, its origin, and even its identity, have given rise
to the most animated disputations.
Many have asserted that Juba, King of Mauritania (50 years B.C.), spoke
of the lemon tree, and that he looked upon it as being very ancient.
They add, that the Lybians gave to its fruit the name of “Hesperide
apples,” that Hercules stole, and which, on account of their colour,
were called “golden apples” by the Greeks, who were indebted to that
hero for their introduction.[XIII-26]
Others maintain that no one has spoken of them before
Theophrastus,[XIII-27] who called them “Median apples,” after the place
of their origin; and that consequently those persons were wrong who
confounded them with the apples taken from the garden of the
Hesperides.[XIII-28]
These difficulties will probably disappear, if we remember that the
ancients have given to the lemon tree various names[XIII-29] which
belong to other trees. The truth is, that the Athenians received it from
the Persians, who were neighbours of the Medes, and from Attica it
spread all over Greece.[XIII-30]
Lemons were only known to the Romans at a very late period, and at first
were used only to keep the moths from their garments. The acidity of
this fruit was unpleasant to them, and Apicius makes no use of it: those
who wish to satisfy their curiosity on the subject may read the remarks
of Lister, the celebrated physician of Queen Anne, and editor of the
works of this famous _gourmet_.[XIII-31]
In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an
excellent counter-poison.[XIII-32]
Fifty years after that, Palladius reared the plants which he had
received from Media,[XIII-33] and at last this tree was slowly
naturalized in the south of Europe.
A considerable number of anecdotes have been told of the anti-venomous
properties of the lemon. Athenæus speaks of two men who did not feel
pain from the bite of dangerous serpents, because they had previously
eaten of this fruit.[XIII-34] Either this story is false, or men and
things have strangely altered.
Apicius preserves lemons by putting each of them into a separate vessel,
which is hermetically sealed with plaster, and afterwards suspended from
the ceiling.[XIII-35]
In another place we shall speak of the tables and beds made of the lemon
tree, so fashionable amongst the Romans, and for which they spent
prodigious sums.
One thing remains to be noticed; and that is, that preserved lemon peel
was considered as one of the best digestives, and that doctors recommend
it to weak and delicate persons.[XIII-36]
ORANGE TREE.
If confidence is to be placed in some authors, the native land of the
orange tree would appear to be the gardens of the Hesperides, so
remarkable in mythologic ages, and it was found also in Western Africa,
Mauritania, and the Fortunate Islands; to which they add those mountains
of Atlas so little known in a botanical point of view, notwithstanding
the daring excursions of several learned men.
According to other observers, it originally came from the southern
countries of China,[XIII-37] from the islands of the Indian Archipelago,
or even from that portion of the globe called Oceania.
One incontestable fact is, that writers of antiquity were completely
ignorant of the existence of this superb tree. Had they known it, its
majestic height, the dark green of its foliage, the suavity of its
flowers, its fruit, so fine, bright, and so flattering to the taste,
could not have failed to inspire them with brilliant pages.
Theophrastus, and the Latin geoponics, never would have neglected to
speak of the luxury and fecundity it displays, even in the season of
hoary frost. Besides, the name of _Portughan_, which is given to the
orange by the Arabs--a name foreign to their language, but which is
again heard among the Italians, Spaniards, and even in the southern
provinces of France--is it not an indication that the introduction of
this tree has some connection with the Portuguese voyages to India,
particularly those of Juan de Castro in the year 1520?
It is the Portuguese who have planted the orange tree in the Canaries,
at Madeira, where it was supposed to be indigenous on account of the
vigorous vegetation it there displays: it is the Portuguese who have
introduced this tree into all countries washed by the Mediterranean: and
it is still the Portuguese who have furnished the parent suckers, whence
the Spaniards have been enabled to form their immense groves in
Andalusia and Algarvia.[XIII-38]
From the foregoing recital we may conclude that the grand poliphagic
triumvirate of antiquity--Archestratus, Vitellius, and Apicius--never
tasted this fruit, which Heaven reserved for the appreciation of modern
times. Blessed shades! if, attracted sometimes by the exquisite vapours
of our stoves, you should wander again round those succulent dishes
which a more experienced chemistry enables us to elaborate: if fruitless
gastronomic reminiscences should lead you into the delightful retreat of
some one of your disciples, who by his enlightened skill is there
preparing the treasures of the dessert: oh! turn away your eyes from
those enticing fruits which display their golden rays, and rise in
pyramids upon a porcelain pedestal. Here are oranges, the nectar and
ambrosia of the Olympian ages, which you doubtless regret, and we have
again discovered. These wonders of sweetness existed perhaps in China,
but you knew it not, for China did not become a Roman province. But
console yourselves, giants of cookery! we have not yet attained the high
pinnacle of your art; your wild boar _à la Troyenne_, your peacocks’
brains, and your phenicopters’ tongues, secure for you a triumph which
posterity will dispute in vain!
The orange known under the name of “Portugal orange” comes from China.
Not more than two centuries ago the Portuguese brought thence the first
scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire
forests of orange trees in Portugal.[XIII-39]
It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to make
new-year’s presents of oranges stuck full with cloves. We read in one of
Ben Jonson’s pieces, the “Christmas Masque,” “He has an orange and
rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it.”[XIII-40]
At the present day we can dispense with this embellishment.
The first orange tree cultivated in the centre of France was to be seen
a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It was called _Le Connétable_ (the
Constable), because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon, and
had been confiscated, together with all property belonging to that
prince, after his revolt against his sovereign.[XIII-41]
FIG TREE.
Antiquity, sacred and profane, has not left us, on any other tree, facts
so clear and certain as upon the fig tree; it is the only tree of Eden
of which the sacred books have preserved to us any mention.[XIII-42] In
the East there were immense plantations of it; Egypt had some
also;[XIII-43] and the land of Canaan produced figs, which enabled Moses
to judge of its fertility.[XIII-44]
The Scriptures, in order to give us an idea of the happiness and
tranquillity the Jews enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, tell us that,
“in Judea and in Israel all dwelt safely, every man under his vine and
under his fig tree.”[XIII-45]
And the fruit of this tree was no doubt very dear to the Hebrews, since
Rubshakeh, the general of the Assyrian army, thought to seduce them from
their obedience to Hezekiah, King of Judea, by saying to them: “Come out
to me, and then eat ye every man of his own vine, and every one of his
fig tree.”[XIII-46]
Thus the trade carried on with figs in Jerusalem had become so
considerable and active, that Esdras was obliged to interdict it on the
Sabbath day. It appears that figs were arranged in small masses, to
which they give the form of loaves or cakes, either round or square,
which were sold nearly in the same way as at the present day.[XIII-47]
From the East the fig tree passed into Greece, then into Italy, Gaul,
Spain, and throughout Europe.
The Athenians pretended that this tree was a native of their soil, and
this people never wanted mythologic facts to support their assertions;
they imagined, and would have others believe, that the grateful Ceres
rewarded the Athenian, Phytalus, for his hospitality by giving him a fig
tree, which served for all the plantations of Attica.[XIII-48]
Whatever may be the way it came to them, they received it with
transports of joy; it was planted with great pomp in the centre of the
public square at Athens: from that time this spot was sacred to
them.[XIII-49]
Ere long the fame of the figs of Attica spread far and wide: they were
the best in Greece; and the magistrates strictly prohibited their
exportation.[XIII-50] This law was afterwards modified, that is, the
exportation of figs was allowed on payment of a very heavy duty.
They then appointed inspectors, whose duty it was to discover
contraventions, and report them: thence arose the name of
Sycophant,[XIII-51] taken by those informers--a vile and dispised set of
men, whose denunciations were often false, and with whom the infamous
authors of a base calumny were eventually assimilated.[XIII-52]
In Greece every one feasted on figs: it was a sort of regular
gastronomic _furore_, which knew no bounds, and the wise Plato himself
ceased to be a philosopher when presented with a basket of that fruit.
As an aliment it was considered so wholesome and strengthening, that on
the first introduction of them they constituted the food of the athletæ,
whose patron, Hercules, had also fed on them in his youth.
The superiority of the Greek figs was so generally acknowledged that the
kings of Persia even had a predilection for them: dried ones were served
on the tables of these ostentatious princes.[XIII-53]
The Romans believed, according to an antique tradition, that their first
princes, Romulus and Remus, were found under a fig tree on the shore of
the Tiber; they therefore rendered signal honours to this tree when it
was brought into Italy: they planted it in the Forum; and it was under
its shade that a sacrifice was offered every year to the shepherdess who
had suckled their founder.[XIII-54]
It may, nevertheless, be affirmed, that no one before Cato had noticed
the fig tree,[XIII-55] which probably appeared in Rome at the same
period as the peach, apricot, and other trees of Asia. Sixty years
afterwards Varro speaks of it as a novelty from beyond sea, and points
out to us that its various species have retained the names of the
countries whence they came.[XIII-56]
Those varieties were so numerous, that Pliny counts no less than
twenty-nine of them,[XIII-57] and the designation of the greater part
recalled to mind the illustrious families who had taken them under their
patronage.
The people of the north, especially the moderns, cannot well explain the
extraordinary infatuation of the ancient southern nations for the fruit
of the fig tree. Perhaps we ought to look for the reason in the
nourishing, fresh, and sweet qualities of its pulp, and in the numerous
plantations of those trees, which sometimes furnished an agreeable food
to entire armies, when other provisions failed.[XIII-58] That of Philip
of Macedon owed its preservation to the figs brought to it by the
Magnesians.[XIII-59] A long time before, David received with joy, from
the hands of Abigail, two hundred baskets of dried figs, for himself and
his exhausted men.[XIII-60]
More than once the far-famed reputation of some beautiful plantations of
fig trees brought long and disastrous wars on an entire country, as
steel attracts lightning. Xerxes left Persia, and rushed on Attica, to
take possession of those delicious figs, whose renown only had crossed
his territory:[XIII-61] and it was partly to eat the figs of Rome that
the Gauls waged war against Italy:[XIII-62] thank Heaven we have now
more respect for our neighbours’ fig trees.
The best things in the world have had their detractors, and the fig is
not an exception. Philotimus and Diphilus looked upon it as bad
food;[XIII-63] Galen was unwell after partaking of figs, and he
recommends us to mix almonds with them;[XIII-64] Hippocrates himself
thought them indigestible, and advised to drink plentifully after eating
them.[XIII-65]
All these great men may have been right, but the Greeks, their
contemporaries, acted as if they were wrong: happily we are not called
upon to decide between them.
Figs were commonly served on aristocratic tables with salt, pepper,
vinegar, and some aromatics; they were eaten fresh, or dried in the
oven, or on hurdles in the sun.
RASPBERRY TREE.
The ancients hardly mention the raspberry tree, which they placed on a
level with the bramble. The Latins called it “_Bramble of Ida_,” because
it was common on that mountain.[XIII-66] There can be no doubt, however,
that the Romans knew how to appreciate the raspberry tree, so much
esteemed in our days.
CURRANT TREE.
The moderns have attempted to ennoble our two kinds of currants by
decorating them with Latin names, which recall their antiquity.[XIII-67]
Vain effort! To all appearance the Greeks and people of Italy were not
acquainted with the currant tree,[XIII-68] although they well deserved
to possess this delicious fruit.
STRAWBERRY PLANT.
Among the Greeks the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity, this
fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins the name reminded one
of the delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond
of it, and applied the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to
place it in the same rank with flowers,[XIII-69] and Ovid gives it a
tender epithet,[XIII-70] which delicate palates would not disavow.
Neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry,[XIII-71] which
disappears beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented
air reveals. Transported to the tables of the Luculli, by the side of
its more brilliant and more beautiful sister, a flattering murmur often
bore testimony to its merit, and nature triumphed in the midst of
ingenious guests, soliciting of art what they repudiated in nature.
MULBERRY TREE.
The ancient mulberry tree was considered the wisest and most prudent of
trees, because it took care, they said, not to let the smallest of its
buds come to light before the cold had entirely disappeared, not to
return. Then, however, it hastened to repair lost time, and a single
night was sufficient to see it display its beautiful flowers, which the
next morning brightly opened at the rising of Aurora.[XIII-72]
The voluptuous Romans, reposing late on their soft couches the day after
the fatigues of a banquet worthy of Vitellius, did not trouble
themselves much about this interesting phenomenon, which occurred, if
Pliny does not mistake, in the gardens of their villas. But they knew
that mulberries agree with the stomach, that they afford hardly any
nourishment, and easily digest:[XIII-73] therefore, no sooner had they
opened their heavy eyelids than an Egyptian boy--attentive living
bell--at a sign disappeared, and quickly returned, bearing a small
crystal vase, filled with mulberry juice and wine reduced by boiling.
This beneficent fruit preserved in this mixture all its sweet
flavour,[XIII-74] and enabled the rich patrician to await until evening
the hour for new excesses.
It is quite evident that this luscious fruit was a native of Canaan, for
the high road by which the tribes of Israel went up to the feasts at
Jerusalem lay through the valley of _Baka_, or Mulberry Tree;[XIII-75]
and the whole tract of country from Ekron to Gaza abounded in these
trees.
XIV.
SHELL FRUIT.
ALMOND TREE.
This tree, whose fruit was called at one time “Greek Nut,” and, at
another, “Thasian Nut,”[XIV-1] is a native of Paphlagonia, according to
Hermippus.[XIV-2] The nations of the east thought much of almonds, and
Jacob found them worthy of appearing among the presents he designed for
Joseph.[XIV-3] The almond tree of Naxos supplied the markets of
Athens.[XIV-4] The Romans, in their turn, sought them, and believed,
like the physician spoken of by Plutarch, that it was only necessary to
eat five or six almonds to acquire the ability of drinking
astonishingly.[XIV-5]
Besides, this fruit had not always so mean a destination: the disciples
of Apicius made of it one of the most delicate of dishes. Here it is, as
taught to them by their master:--
Take almonds that have been pounded in a mortar, and mix them with
honey, pepper, garum, milk, eggs, and a little oil; submit the whole to
the action of a slow fire.[XIV-6]
The ancients were acquainted with the oil of almonds,[XIV-7] of which
they made nearly the same use as we do ourselves; but they possessed, in
addition, an infallible means of augmenting the fertility of the almond
tree. It was very simple:--A hole was made in the tree, a stone was
introduced into it,[XIV-8] and, thanks to the virtue of this new manure,
the branches soon bent under the weight of almonds.
The good almonds come from Barbary and the south of France. When young,
they are preserved like green apricots. They are eaten at table, fresh
or dry; in comfits, pastry, &c.: they are also used to make orgeat and
refreshing emulsions. The oil extracted from almonds, even bitter ones,
is very sweet; it is best extracted cold, by pressure. The pulp is
employed, under the name of almond paste, for several purposes, one of
which is to render the skin soft and flexible.[XIV-9]
WALNUT TREE.
Asia, the cradle of most fruit trees, gave birth also to the walnut
tree. It is believed to be a native of Persia,[XIV-10] and its pleasing
foliage already adorned, in Biblical times, the orchards of the east.
One of the most ancient of the sacred books informs us that it was known
to the Jews,[XIV-11] and it may be inferred from a passage in the Song
of Solomon that they possessed numerous plantations of this
tree.[XIV-12]
Among the Persians, walnuts were not lavished on the first comer, as
with us; the sovereign reserved them for his dessert, and the people
were obliged to abstain from them. But perhaps it may be said that,
however fond this prince may have been of walnuts, he could not eat all
that were produced in his states. The objection is embarrassing, we own,
and chroniclers are silent on this point. But let us suppose that this
generous potentate distributed to his favourites the walnuts from which
his satiated appetite was compelled to abstain; and, indeed, we find
that a king of Persia sent some to the Greeks, who called them “Royal
Persian nuts,”[XIV-13] in gratitude and remembrance of the august gift.