From these distant wanderings (it was my first visit to Westminster

Abbey, and I would gladly have taken it all in at a glance) my eyes came

back and began to investigate what was immediately about me in the

transept. Close at my elbow was the pedestal of Canning's statue. Next

beyond it was a massive tomb, on the spacious tablet of which reposed

the full-length figures of a marble lord and lady, whom an inscription

announced to be the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle,--the historic Duke of

Charles I.'s time, and the fantastic Duchess, traditionally remembered

by her poems and plays. She was of a family, as the record on her tomb

proudly informed us, of which all the brothers had been valiant and all

the sisters virtuous. A recent statue of Sir John Malcolm, the new

marble as white as snow, held the next place; and near by was a mural

monument and bust of Sir Peter Warren. The round visage of this old

British admiral has a certain interest for a New-Englander, because it

was by no merit of his own (though he took care to assume it as such),

but by the valor and warlike enterprise of our colonial forefathers,

especially the stout men of Massachusetts, that he won rank and renown,

and a tomb in Westminster Abbey. Lord Mansfield, a huge mass of marble

done into the guise of a judicial gown and wig, with a stern face in the

midst of the latter, sat on the other side of the transept; and on the

pedestal beside him was a figure of Justice, holding forth, instead of

the customary grocer's scales, an actual pair of brass steelyards. It is

an ancient and classic instrument, undoubtedly; but I had supposed that

Portia (when Shylock's pound of flesh was to be weighed) was the only

judge that ever really called for it in a court of justice. Pitt and Fox

were in the same distinguished company; and John Kemble, in Roman

costume, stood not far off, but strangely shorn of the dignity that is

said to have enveloped him like a mantle in his lifetime. Perhaps the

evanescent majesty of the stage is incompatible with the long endurance

of marble and the solemn reality of the tomb; though, on the other

hand, almost every illustrious personage here represented has been

invested with more or less of stage-trickery by his sculptor. In truth,

the artist (unless there be a divine efficacy in his touch, making

evident a heretofore hidden dignity in the actual form) feels it an

imperious law to remove his subject as far from the aspect of ordinary

life as may be possible without sacrificing every trace of resemblance.

The absurd effect of the contrary course is very remarkable in the

statue of Mr. Wilberforce, whose actual self, save for the lack of

color, I seemed to behold, seated just across the aisle.

This excellent man appears to have sunk into himself in a sitting

posture, with a thin leg crossed over his knee, a book in one hand, and

a finger of the other under his chin, I believe, or applied to the side

of his nose, or to some equally familiar purpose; while his exceedingly

homely and wrinkled face, held a little on one side, twinkles at you

with the shrewdest complacency, as if he were looking right into your

eyes, and twigged something there which you had half a mind to conceal

from him. He keeps this look so pertinaciously that you feel it to be

insufferably impertinent, and bethink yourself what common ground there

may be between yourself and a stone image, enabling you to resent it. I

have no doubt that the statue is as like Mr. Wilberforce as one pea to

another, and you might fancy, that, at some ordinary moment, when he

least expected it, and before he had time to smooth away his knowing

complication of wrinkles, he had seen the Gorgon's head, and whitened

into marble,--not only his personal self, but his coat and

small-clothes, down to a button and the minutest crease of the cloth.

The ludicrous result marks the impropriety of bestowing the age-long

duration of marble upon small, characteristic individualities, such as

might come within the province of waxen imagery. The sculptor should

give permanence to the figure of a great man in his mood of broad and

grand composure, which would obliterate all mean peculiarities; for, if

the original were unaccustomed to such a mood, or if his features were

incapable of assuming the guise, it seems questionable whether he could

really have been entitled to a marble immortality. In point of fact,

however, the English face and form are seldom statuesque, however

illustrious the individual.

It ill becomes me, perhaps, to have lapsed into this mood of half-jocose

criticism in describing my first visit to Westminster Abbey, a spot

which I had dreamed about more reverentially, from my childhood upward,

than any other in the world, and which I then beheld, and now look back

upon, with profound gratitude to the men who built it, and a kindly

interest, I may add, in the humblest personage that has contributed his

little all to its impressiveness, by depositing his dust or his memory

there. But it is a characteristic of this grand edifice that it permits

you to smile as freely under the roof of its central nave as if you

stood beneath the yet grander canopy of heaven. Break into laughter, if

you feel inclined, provided the vergers do not hear it echoing among the

arches. In an ordinary church you would keep your countenance for fear

of disturbing the sanctities or proprieties of the place; but you need

leave no honest and decorous portion of your human nature outside of

these benign and truly hospitable walls. Their mild awfulness will take

care of itself. Thus it does no harm to the general impression, when you

come to be sensible that many of the monuments are ridiculous, and

commemorate a mob of people who are mostly forgotten in their graves,

and few of whom ever deserved any better boon from posterity. You

acknowledge the force of Sir Godfrey Kneller's objection to being buried

in Westminster Abbey, because "they do bury fools there!" Nevertheless,

these grotesque carvings of marble, that break out in dingy-white

blotches on the old freestone of the interior walls, have come there by

as natural a process as might cause mosses and ivy to cluster about the

external edifice; for they are the historical and biographical record of

each successive age, written with its own hand, and all the truer for

the inevitable mistakes, and none the less solemn for the occasional

absurdity. Though you entered the Abbey expecting to see the tombs only

of the illustrious, you are content at last to read many names, both in

literature and history, that have now lost the reverence of mankind, if

indeed they ever really possessed it. Let these men rest in peace. Even

if you miss a name or two that you hoped to find there, they may well be

spared. It matters little a few more or less, or whether Westminster

Abbey contains or lacks any one man's grave, so long as the Centuries,

each with the crowd of personages that it deemed memorable, have chosen

it as their place of honored sepulture, and laid themselves down under

its pavement. The inscriptions and devices on the walls are rich with

evidences of the fluctuating tastes, fashions, manners, opinions,

prejudices, follies, wisdoms, of the past, and thus they combine into a

more truthful memorial of their dead times than any individual

epitaph-maker ever meant to write.

When the services were over, many of the audience seemed inclined to

linger in the nave or wander away among the mysterious aisles; for there

is nothing in this world so fascinating as a Gothic minster, which

always invites you deeper and deeper into its heart both by vast

revelations and shadowy concealments. Through the open-work screen that

divides the nave from the chancel and choir, we could discern the gleam

of a marvelous window, but were debarred from entrance into that more

sacred precinct of the Abbey by the vergers. These vigilant officials

(doing their duty all the more strenuously because no fees could be

exacted from Sunday visitors) flourished their staves, and drove us

towards the grand entrance like a flock of sheep. Lingering through one

of the aisles, I happened to look down, and found my foot upon a stone

inscribed with this familiar exclamation, "_O rare Ben Jonson!_" and

remembered the story of stout old Ben's burial in that spot, standing

upright,--not, I presume, on account of any unseemly reluctance on his

part to lie down in the dust, like other men, but because standing-room

was all that could reasonably be demanded for a poet among the

slumberous notabilities of his age. It made me weary to think of

it!--such a prodigious length of time to keep one's feet!--apart from

the honor of the thing, it would certainly have been better for Ben to

stretch himself at ease in some country churchyard. To this day,

however, I fancy that there is a contemptuous alloy mixed up with the

admiration which the higher classes of English society profess for their

literary men.

Another day--in truth, many other days--I sought out Poets' Corner, and

found a sign-board and pointed finger directing the visitor to it, on

the corner house of a little lane leading towards the rear of the Abbey.

The entrance is at the southeastern end of the south transept, and it

is used, on ordinary occasions, as the only free mode of access to the

building. It is no spacious arch, but a small, lowly door, passing

through which, and pushing aside an inner screen that partly keeps out

an exceedingly chill wind, you find yourself in a dim nook of the Abbey,

with the busts of poets gazing at you from the otherwise bare stone-work

of the walls. Great poets, too; for Ben Jonson is right behind the door,

and Spenser's tablet is next, and Butler's on the same side of the

transept, and Milton's (whose bust you know at once by its resemblance

to one of his portraits, though older, more wrinkled, and sadder than

that) is close by, and a profile-medallion of Gray beneath it. A window

high aloft sheds down a dusky daylight on these and many other

sculptured marbles, now as yellow as old parchment, that cover the three

walls of the nook up to an elevation of about twenty feet above the

pavement. It seemed to me that I had always been familiar with the spot.

Enjoying a humble intimacy--and how much of my life had else been a

dreary solitude!--with many of its inhabitants, I could not feel myself

a stranger there. It was delightful to be among them. There was a

genial awe, mingled with a sense of kind and friendly presences about

me; and I was glad, moreover, at finding so many of them there together,

in fit companionship, mutually recognized and duly honored, all

reconciled now, whatever distant generations, whatever personal

hostility or other miserable impediment, had divided them far asunder

while they lived. I have never felt a similar interest in any other

tombstones, nor have I ever been deeply moved by the imaginary presence

of other famous dead people. A poet's ghost is the only one that

survives for his fellow-mortals, after his bones are in the dust,--and

he not ghostly, but cherishing many hearts with his own warmth in the

chillest atmosphere of life. What other fame is worth aspiring for? Or,

let me speak it more boldly, what other long-enduring fame can exist? We

neither remember nor care anything for the past, except as the poet has

made it intelligibly noble and sublime to our comprehension. The shades

of the mighty have no substance; they flit ineffectually about the

darkened stage where they performed their momentary parts, save when the

poet has thrown his own creative soul into them, and imparted a more

vivid life than ever they were able to manifest to mankind while they

dwelt in the body. And therefore--though he cunningly disguises himself

in their armor, their robes of state, or kingly purple--it is not the

statesman, the warrior, or the monarch that survives, but the despised

poet, whom they may have fed with their crumbs, and to whom they owe all

that they now are or have,--a name![12]

[12] _September 30, 1855._ Poets' Corner has never seemed like a strange

place to me; it has been familiar from the very first; at all events, I

cannot now recollect the previous conception, of which the reality has

taken the place. I seem always to have known that somewhat dim corner,

with the bare brown stone-work of the old edifice aloft, and a window

shedding down its light on the marble busts and tablets, yellow with

time, that cover the three walls of the nook up to a height of about

twenty feet. Prior's is the largest and richest monument. It is

observable that the bust and monument of Congreve are in a distant part

of the Abbey. His duchess probably thought it a degradation to bring a

gentleman among the beggarly poets.--II. 153.

_November 12, 1857._ We found our way to Poets' Corner, however, and

entered those holy precincts, which looked very dusky and grim in the

smoky light.... I was strongly impressed with the perception that very

commonplace people compose the great bulk of society in the home of the

illustrious dead. It is wonderful how few names there are that one cares

anything about a hundred years after their departure; but perhaps each

generation acts in good faith in canonizing its own men.... But the

fame of the buried person does not make the marble live,--the marble

keeps merely a cold and sad memory of a man who would else be forgotten.

No man who needs a monument ever ought to have one.--II. 565.

[Illustration: _Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey._]

In the foregoing paragraph I seem to have been betrayed into a flight

above or beyond the customary level that best agrees with me; but it

represents fairly enough the emotions with which I passed from Poets'

Corner into the chapels, which contain the sepulchres of kings and great

people. They are magnificent even now, and must have been inconceivably

so when the marble slabs and pillars wore their new polish, and the

statues retained the brilliant colors with which they were originally

painted, and the shrines their rich gilding, of which the sunlight still

shows a glimmer or a streak, though the sunbeam itself looks tarnished

with antique dust. Yet this recondite portion of the Abbey presents few

memorials of personages whom we care to remember. The shrine of Edward

the Confessor has a certain interest, because it was so long held in

religious reverence, and because the very dust that settled upon it was

formerly worth gold. The helmet and war-saddle of Henry V., worn at

Agincourt, and now suspended above his tomb, are memorable objects, but

more for Shakespeare's sake than the victor's own. Rank has been the

general passport to admission here. Noble and regal dust is as cheap as

dirt under the pavement. I am glad to recollect, indeed (and it is too

characteristic of the right English spirit not to be mentioned), one or

two gigantic statues of great mechanicians, who contributed largely to

the material welfare of England, sitting familiarly in their marble

chairs among forgotten kings and queens. Otherwise, the quaintness of

the earlier monuments, and the antique beauty of some of them, are what

chiefly gives them value. Nevertheless, Addison is buried among the men

of rank; not on the plea of his literary fame, however, but because he

was connected with nobility by marriage, and had been a Secretary of

State. His gravestone is inscribed with a resounding verse from

Tickell's lines to his memory, the only lines by which Tickell himself

is now remembered, and which (as I discovered a little while ago) he

mainly filched from an obscure versifier of somewhat earlier date.

Returning to Poets' Corner, I looked again at the walls, and wondered

how the requisite hospitality can be shown to poets of our own and the

succeeding ages. There is hardly a foot of space left, although room has

lately been found for a bust of Southey and a full-length statue of

Campbell. At best, only a little portion of the Abbey is dedicated to

poets, literary men, musical composers, and others of the gentle artist

breed, and even into that small nook of sanctity men of other pursuits

have thought it decent to intrude themselves. Methinks the tuneful

throng, being at home here, should recollect how they were treated in

their lifetime, and turn the cold shoulder, looking askance at nobles

and official personages, however worthy of honorable interment

elsewhere. Yet it shows aptly and truly enough what portion of the

world's regard and honor has heretofore been awarded to literary

eminence in comparison with other modes of greatness,--this dimly

lighted corner (nor even that quietly to themselves) in the vast minster

the walls of which are sheathed and hidden under marble that has been

wasted upon the illustrious obscure. Nevertheless, it may not be worth

while to quarrel with the world on this account; for, to confess the

very truth, their own little nook contains more than one poet whose

memory is kept alive by his monument, instead of imbuing the senseless

stone with a spiritual immortality,--men of whom you do not ask, "Where

is he?" but, "Why is he here?" I estimate that all the literary people

who really make an essential part of one's inner life, including the

period since English literature first existed, might have ample

elbow-room to sit down and quaff their draughts of Castaly round

Chaucer's broad, horizontal tombstone. These divinest poets consecrate

the spot, and throw a reflected glory over the humblest of their

companions. And as for the latter, it is to be hoped that they may have

long outgrown the characteristic jealousies and morbid sensibilities of

their craft, and have found out the little value (probably not amounting

to sixpence in immortal currency) of the posthumous renown which they

once aspired to win. It would be a poor compliment to a dead poet to

fancy him leaning out of the sky and snuffing up the impure breath of

earthly praise.

Yet we cannot easily rid ourselves of the notion that those who have

bequeathed us the inheritance of an undying song would fain be

conscious of its endless reverberations in the hearts of mankind, and

would delight, among sublimer enjoyments, to see their names emblazoned

in such a treasure-place of great memories as Westminster Abbey. There

are some men, at all events,--true and tender poets, moreover, and fully

deserving of the honor,--whose spirits, I feel certain, would linger a

little while about Poets' Corner, for the sake of witnessing their own

apotheosis among their kindred. They have had a strong natural yearning,

not so much for applause as sympathy, which the cold fortune of their

lifetime did but scantily supply; so that this unsatisfied appetite may

make itself felt upon sensibilities at once so delicate and retentive,

even a step or two beyond the grave. Leigh Hunt, for example, would be

pleased, even now, if he could learn that his bust had been reposited in

the midst of the old poets whom he admired and loved; though there is

hardly a man among the authors of to-day and yesterday whom the judgment

of Englishmen would be less likely to place there. He deserves it,

however, if not for his verse (the value of which I do not estimate,

never having been able to read it), yet for his delightful prose, his

unmeasured poetry, the inscrutable happiness of his touch, working soft

miracles by a life-process like the growth of grass and flowers. As with

all such gentle writers, his page sometimes betrayed a vestige of

affectation, but, the next moment, a rich, natural luxuriance overgrew

and buried it out of sight. I knew him a little, and (since, Heaven be

praised, few English celebrities whom I chanced to meet have

enfranchised my pen by their decease, and as I assume no liberties with

living men) I will conclude this rambling article by sketching my first

interview with Leigh Hunt.

He was then at Hammersmith, occupying a very plain and shabby little

house, in a contiguous range of others like it, with no prospect but

that of an ugly village street, and certainly nothing to gratify his

craving for a tasteful environment, inside or out. A slatternly

maid-servant opened the door for us, and he himself stood in the entry,

a beautiful and venerable old man, buttoned to the chin in a black

dress-coat, tall and slender, with a countenance quietly alive all over,

and the gentlest and most naturally courteous manner. He ushered us into

his little study, or parlor, or both,--a very forlorn room, with poor

paper-hangings and carpet, few books, no pictures that I remember, and

an awful lack of upholstery. I touch distinctly upon these external

blemishes and this nudity of adornment, not that they would be worth

mentioning in a sketch of other remarkable persons, but because Leigh

Hunt was born with such a faculty of enjoying all beautiful things that

it seemed as if Fortune did him as much wrong in not supplying them as

in withholding a sufficiency of vital breath from ordinary men. All

kinds of mild magnificence, tempered by his taste, would have become him

well; but he had not the grim dignity that assumes nakedness as the

better robe.

I have said that he was a beautiful old man. In truth, I never saw a

finer countenance, either as to the mould of features or the expression,

nor any that showed the play of feeling so perfectly without the

slightest theatrical emphasis. It was like a child's face in this

respect. At my first glimpse of him, when he met us in the entry, I

discerned that he was old, his long hair being white and his wrinkles

many; it was an aged visage, in short, such as I had not at all expected

to see, in spite of dates, because his books talk to the reader with

the tender vivacity of youth. But when he began to speak, and as he grew

more earnest in conversation, I ceased to be sensible of his age;

sometimes, indeed, its dusky shadow darkened through the gleam which his

sprightly thoughts diffused about his face, but then another flash of

youth came out of his eyes and made an illumination again. I never

witnessed such a wonderfully illusive transformation, before or since;

and, to this day, trusting only to my recollection, I should find it

difficult to decide which was his genuine and stable predicament,--youth

or age. I have met no Englishman whose manners seemed to me so

agreeable, soft, rather than polished, wholly unconventional, the

natural growth of a kindly and sensitive disposition without any

reference to rule, or else obedient to some rule so subtile that the

nicest observer could not detect the application of it.

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