CHAPTER LXIV.

Tibetan Trade and Industry.

I shall now describe the trade of Tibet, though my account must

necessarily be imperfect for obvious reasons.

I shall begin with an interesting incident that occurred to me in

November, 1901, when I was enabled to send home letters for the first

time after my arrival in the country. That was on the 18th of the

month, and through the agency of Tsa Rong-ba, a Tibetan trader with

whom I had become acquainted at Darjeeling. This man started for

Calcutta on Government business to buy iron, and as I knew him to be

trustworthy I entrusted him with a letter addressed to Saraṭ Chanḍra

Ḍās, in which were enclosed several others addressed to my friends and

relatives in Japan.

The iron which he was commissioned to procure was for the purpose

of manufacturing small arms at an arsenal situated at Dib near

Che-Cho-ling, on the bank of the river Kichu, which flows to the south

of Lhasa.

This industry was an innovation in Tibet, and in fact had begun only

about eight years before that time. It was introduced by a Tibetan

named Lha Tse-ring who had lived for a long time at Darjeeling and,

at the request of his Government, brought back with him about ten

gunsmiths, mostly Hinḍū and Cashmere Mohamedans. Only two of these

smiths remained in Tibet at the time I reached Lhasa, the rest

having returned home or died; but as several of the Tibetan smiths

had acquired the art from them, no inconvenience was experienced in

continuing the industry. This was a great improvement on the old

state of affairs, for Tibet had formerly possessed only flint-lock

muskets, and even these could not easily be introduced from India.

The manufacture of improved firearms was therefore a great boon to

the country, and the Government did not spare expense and trouble to

encourage the development of the art. Hence it came about that my

acquaintance was authorised by the Government to proceed to Calcutta

and procure a supply of iron.

It ought to be mentioned that about this time the departure of Tibetan

merchants to foreign countries for the transaction of business had

become quite frequent. They proceeded first of all to British India,

next to China, and lastly to the Russian territories. The trade with

the last was, however, quite insignificant as yet, and whatever

relations Tibet may have with Russia are in most cases political and

very rarely commercial.

I shall first describe the Tibetan trade with British India and Nepāl.

Of Tibetan products exported to India wool is the most important, and

next musk and the tails of yaks, furs and leathers. Buḍḍhist images and

books, being liable to confiscation when discovered, seldom go abroad,

though they are more or less in demand in India. Other goods exported

to India are insignificant. Formerly more or less Chinese tea for

consumption by the Tibetans residing at Darjeeling used to go to India,

but this is no longer the case.

The quantity of wool sent abroad is quite large. From five thousand

to six thousand mule-packs go to Darjeeling, about one thousand five

hundred to Bhūtān, about two thousand five hundred to Nepāl and about

three thousand to Ladak. These figures are of course far from precise,

for (reliable official returns being wanting) I based my estimates on

information obtained from the traders. Besides the figures given above,

there are quantities, greater or less, sent to China and also westward

to Mānasarovara, but as I did not visit either district, and moreover

had no means of making an estimate about them, I have nothing to say

on the subject.

Musk is obtained in Tibet, but from a certain species of deer and

not from civet-cats. The musk-deer is found almost everywhere in

that country. It is of about two and a half times or three times the

size of an ordinary cat, and though resembling the Japanese deer in

shape, it is not so tall as the other. The musk-deer subsists on

herbage, and is covered with light and soft fur of a deep grey color.

It has an exceedingly amiable face indicative of its mild nature.

One characteristic feature is that it has two small but pretty tusks

somewhat curved projecting from the upper jaws. The musk is found only

in the male, and is contained in a little pouch attached to the hinder

part. A strange fact is that the pouch is said to grow gradually in

size from the beginning to the middle of each lunar month and then

gradually to be reduced again until the end of the month, this periodic

change appearing with great regularity. The musk-deer is therefore shot

about the middle of the month, generally between the 13th and 15th.

The musk-deer is shot with a gun, but in preserved forests such as are

found round about Lhasa and other Buḍḍhist headquarters, where shooting

and hunting are strictly forbidden on pain of severe penalties,

hunters catch the animal, clandestinely of course, by means of traps.

Though the deer is found almost everywhere in Tibet, its principal

habitation is in such remote districts as Kong-bo, Tsari and Lo. Musk

is very cheap in all those districts, costing about one-tenth of the

price given in Japan. The musk produced there is also purer than that

produced in more prosperous places, for the people being simple-minded

do not tamper with it nor adulterate it with other substances. The

musk coming from Lo, for instance, is especially reputed for purity

and cheapness. The district is inhabited by half-naked aborigines,

who resemble in outward appearance both Tibetans and Hinḍūs, though

ethnologically they are more akin to the former than to the latter.

The musk produced by these savages is bartered against articles either

of ornament or domestic utility, such as mirrors, glass beads, iron

pans, sickles, knives, flour, confectionery and foreign trinkets.

Though the musk is obtainable at a very reasonable price in these

districts, the risks and dangers from highwaymen which traders

encounter on the road are so great that only those who are uncommonly

adventurous proceed thither to get a supply from the natives.

The Tibetan musk is sent in larger quantities to China than to India,

notwithstanding the fact that transport to the latter is easier. Almost

all goods from Tibet to China travel through Ta-chien-lu. However, even

at present, more or less is sent to Yunnan, whence Japan has been used

to obtain its supply. The so-called ‘Yunnan-musk’ so much prized in

Japan therefore comes originally from Tibet.

The ‘Blood-horn’ of the ‘Precious deer’ is the most valuable item among

the commodities on the export list to China. This horn makes a medicine

highly valued by Chinese physicians, being considered to possess the

power of invigorating the body, prolonging life and giving lustre to

the face. It is in fact used as an elixir by the Chinese. The horn

therefore commands a high price, and even in Tibet a Chinese merchant

will give as much as five hundred _yen_ in Japanese currency for a pair

of good horns. The inferior horns, however, can be bought at even two

or three _yen_ a piece, these being used not for medicine but only for

ornament. Sharp, experienced eyes are required to distinguish a good

and valuable horn from an inferior one, and even in Tibet there are not

many such experts.

This special kind of deer is found in the wild districts of the

south-eastern and north-western parts of Tibet, especially in the

former. It is a large animal, larger than an average horse, but in

shape it resembles an ordinary deer, only that it is plumper. As a rule

it is covered with greyish hair, though some are covered with fur of

other hues.

The horns are renewed every year, the growth beginning from about

January of the lunar calendar. The new horns are covered with a hairy

epidermis and consist of nothing but thickened blood. They continue to

grow, and about March or April produce one ramification. At the same

time the base becomes hard and bony, whilst the upper parts remain of

the same consistency as before. They are further ramified and elongated

with the lapse of time, and the growth reaches its climax by about

September, after which the counter process of decay commences and the

horns, now grown quite long, drop off about the middle of December.

The largest specimens I saw measured thirteen inches in length with

the main stem of about 1-4/5 inches in girth, and even such horns are

completely covered with hairy integument.

The best season for the horns, that is when they are medically most

efficacious, is believed to be April or May, and it is then that

the natives go out to hunt the animal. The shooting should be done

with accurate aim so as to drop the animal at once, and the hunters

therefore generally aim at the forehead. This is owing to the fact

that when the animal is only wounded, instead of being brought down by

a single shot, he invariably knocks his head against rocks or trees

and breaks the precious horns to pieces. About the month of April or

May, the animal, probably from the necessity of protecting his horns,

sojourns in less remote and rocky places, and this habit makes him fall

an easy prey to the hunter.

I may mention that I brought home a fine specimen of these horns

which I bought at Lhasa. They are genuine, for I had them judged by a

competent expert.

The exports to Nepāl comprise wool, yak-tails, salt, saltpetre,

woollen goods and a few other articles. To the districts lying to the

north-east of Tibet, that is to the north-western parts of China and

Mongolia, go various kinds of woollen goods; Buḍḍhist books also go

largely to Mongolia, as do also Buḍḍhist images, pictures and various

paraphernalia. These, considered as objects of art, are worthless,

though formerly Tibet produced images and pictures of high artistic

standard. The contrast between old and new images and pictures, both

of which are to be seen in most temples in Tibet, is sufficiently

glaring, for the latter are as a rule clumsy performances, offensive to

the taste and also to the sense of decency, being invariably bi-sexual

representations of men and women with one common body. I was once

struck with the notion that the Tibetans are characterised by four

serious defects, these being: filthiness, superstition, unnatural

customs (such as polyandry), and unnatural art. I should be sorely

perplexed if I were asked to name their redeeming points; but if I

had to do so, I should mention first of all the fine climate in the

vicinity of Lhasa and Shigatze, their sonorous and refreshing voices

in reading the Text, the animated style of their catechisms, and

their ancient art. But to cut short my digression, and to resume the

description of Tibetan trade, I must next give an account of the import

business.

Of the imported goods, those coming from India are mostly in evidence.

Among them may be mentioned woollen cloth for decorating the rooms of

temples and for other uses, silk handkerchiefs, Burma _crêpes_, Benares

brocades, silk tissues, and cotton fabrics. White cotton piece-goods

are mostly in demand, next piece-goods of light blue and of russet

color. Figured chintzes of various patterns are also imported more or

less.

Imports from China comprise first of all silk fabrics of sundry kinds,

as brocades, tussore silk, _crêpes_ and satins of various kinds. Silver

bullion and drugs are also imported, but in respect of value tea

stands first on the list of Chinese imports. From what I have roughly

estimated, the quantity of tea arriving at Lhasa alone will cost not

less than six hundred and fifty thousand _yen_ a year approximately,

while the import to Eastern Tibet, which is more thickly inhabited than

the other half of the country, must of course reach a larger figure,

for the Tibetans are great tea-drinkers and both high and low imbibe

a large quantity of the beverage all through the year. The poorest

people, who cannot afford to buy, are satisfied with a thin decoction

obtained from the refuse of the tea-pots of wealthier people. Tea is

rather costly, for one brick of inferior quality measuring about one

foot long, 6-1/2 inches wide and three inches thick costs two _yen_

seventy-five _sen_ at Lhasa; a brick consisting of only leaves without

any mixture of twigs cannot be obtained at less than five _yen_. The

prices rise as we go westward, owing to the cost of transportation, and

for a brick costing two _yen_ seventy-five _sen_ at Lhasa as much as

three _yen_ twenty-five _sen_ has to be paid in Western Tibet.

The imports from Bhūtān or Sikkim comprise tussore-silk goods, woollen

fabrics, and cotton goods.

Then from India, Kashmīr, or Nepāl are imported copper utensils,

grains, dried grapes, dried peaches, dates, medical drugs, and precious

stones of various kinds, as diamonds, rubies, agates, turquoises and

corals. Of these turquoises and corals are the most important, being

widely used by the Tibetans as a hair decoration. For this purpose the

best quality of turquoises are even more prized than diamonds, and a

good turquoise of the size of the tip of the small finger fetches as

much as one thousand two hundred _yen_. Coral without spots is rather

rare, and most of those seen on the heads of the Tibetan women are

spotted more or less. The Tibetans are fond of the reddish or deep

reddish variety, which are not popular among the Japanese. Superior

kinds come from China, and one good coral ball from China commands

from one hundred and twenty to two hundred and thirty _yen_. Indian

specimens are usually inferior in quality. Coral-beads are also

imported from that country. Glass beads do duty for corals for poorer

folk, and imitation corals made in Japan are sold also. These were

formerly passed off as genuine by dishonest merchants, and were sold

at comparatively speaking fabulous prices. They are now taken at their

proper value. Cheap foreign fancy goods and Japanese matches also find

their way to Tibet through India.

Several queer customs prevail in Tibet concerning business

transactions. The mode of selling woollen and cotton piece-goods is

particularly singular. The standard of measurement is the length of the

two outstretched hands, while another measurement based on the length

from the elbow to the tip of the fingers is also used. This measurement

is determined by the buyers, so that a large person enjoys the

advantage of getting a longer measure, while the merchant is subjected

to so much disadvantage. However, this primitive mode of measurement

is generally applied to the native products only, as for foreign cloth

the unit of measurement is a square, each side of which is equal to

the breadth of the cloth to be sold. This is called a _kha_, and a kha

varies with the breadth of each piece of cloth.

Very seldom are native merchants honest in their dealing; even the

most trustworthy ask a price ten to twenty per cent higher than is

reasonable, and the price asked by the more dishonest is really

monstrous, being double or even as much as five or six times the real

rate.

Another interesting feature in Tibetan transactions is the blessing

which the merchants bestow on anything which people buy from them. The

most common formula of blessing is to this effect: “May the goods you

have bought from me avert from you disease or any other suffering; may

your purchase bring good luck and prosperity, so that you may grow

richer, build storehouses, and buy more and more goods from us!”

The blessing accompanying the parting with sacred books is more

ceremonious. The merchant reverentially lifts the book over his head in

both hands, and then hands it over to the purchaser (a priest in most

cases) with this blessing:

“May your reverence not only seek the true light from this sacred work,

but may you conduct yourself according to that light, so that you may

attain better intelligence, wisdom and morals, and fit yourself for the

holy work of salvation, for the good of all beings!”

The purchaser has also a ceremony to perform in this transaction, and I

must confess that his performance is more obviously selfish, outwardly

at least; for in handing the price he just touches the dirty coin with

his tongue, then wipes it on the neck of his garment, and finally hands

it to the merchant after having cast upon it one lingering glance

indicative of his reluctance to part with it. This act of licking and

wiping signifies that the purchaser has licked off and wiped away for

his own benefit all the good luck that was contained in that piece.

The coin that goes to the merchant is therefore considered as a mere

empty thing, so far as the virtue that was originally contained in it

is concerned.

Though these tedious processes are omitted by big merchants, such as

those engaged in dealing in tea, all the others faithfully observe

them, especially those in the country.

It may be supposed that with so little to export and so much to import,

the country would be impoverished. This, however, is not the case, as

I shall explain. Tibet has been used to obtain a large amount of gold

from Mongolia--more as donations to Tibetan Lamas than as the price

paid for Tibetan goods. This influx of gold from Mongolia has done much

thus far in enabling the country to keep the balance of her trade. She

therefore cannot adopt an exclusion policy economically, even though

she may without much inconvenience do so politically. In fact the

enforcement of economic exclusion would be followed by serious internal

trouble, simply because it would put a stop to the inflow of gold from

Mongolia.

However, so far as this Mongolian gold is concerned, it seems as if

circumstances were about to bring Tibet to a result tantamount to the

enforcement of economic exclusion, for since the war between Japan and

China and especially since the Boxer trouble the inflow of Mongolian

gold to Tibet has virtually ceased, so much so that the Mongolian

priests who are staying in Tibet for the prosecution of their studies

are sorely embarrassed owing to the non-arrival of their remittances

from home. Some of them have even been obliged to suspend regular

attendance at lectures, and to seek some means of earning their

livelihood, just as the poorer native Buḍḍhist students are accustomed

to do.

Another thing that adds to the economic difficulties of the Tibetans

is their tendency to grow more and more luxurious in their style of

living, a tendency that began to be particularly noticeable from

about twenty years ago. This has been inevitably brought about by the

foreign trade of Tibet and the arrival of goods of foreign origin. All

these circumstances have impressed the Tibetans with the necessity

of extending their sphere of trade with foreign countries instead of

confining their commercial operations within the narrow bounds of

their own country. The consequence is that a larger number of the

inhabitants have begun to proceed every year to China, India and Nepāl

on commercial enterprises.

Now suppose that Tibet should prohibit her people embarking in this

foreign trade, what would be the consequence? In the first place she

would be unable to get any supply of goods from India, China and other

countries, goods which are now articles of daily necessity for her

people. This, though sufficiently hard, might be endured; but what

would be unendurable would be the closing of Indian markets to the

wool of Tibet, India being the most important consumer of this staple

produce of the country. More wool being produced than can be reasonably

consumed at home, the close of foreign markets is certain to bring

down prices, and therefore to rob the sheep-farmers, or more properly

the nomadic people of that country, of the greater part of the income

they are at present enabled to get from their wool. The supply for food

is, on the other hand, less than the demand, and as the prices of this

essential of life cannot be expected to go down in proportion to those

of wool, the sheep-farmers who constitute the greater part of the whole

population would be threatened with starvation.

The incoming of gold from Mongolia being suspended, Tibet cannot, even

if she would, cut off her commercial relations with the outside world.

Urged by necessity, trade is advancing with great strides, judging at

least from the larger number of people engaged in it, for as matters

stand at present the Forbidden Land may without exaggeration be

considered as a “nation of shop-keepers”.

In fact all the people, with the exception of those who are

disqualified through physical defects and age, are engaged in business

of one kind or another. Even farmers are partly traders. In winter

when farm-work is slack they proceed to northern Tibet to lay in their

stock of salt, obtained from the salt lakes that are found there. Then

these men start for Bhūtān, Nepāl or Sikkim, to sell their goods in

those places.

Priests are not too proud to deal with secular dollars and cents, and

monasteries often trade on a large scale.

[Illustration: PRIEST TRADERS LOADING THEIR YAKS.]

The Government itself is a trader, not directly, but through its

regular agents, who in virtue of the important trust reposed in them

enjoy various privileges, such as the liberty to requisition horses for

carrying their goods or to take lodgment _gratis_.

Peers are also traders, mostly by proxy, though some of them refrain

from making investments and are content to subsist on the income

derived from their land. None the less the business spirit permeates

the whole Peerage, and even these non-trading Peers are ready to make

small bargains now and then. Suppose a visitor to a Peer’s house takes

a fancy to some of the furniture or hall decoration in it. In such a

case it is not considered impolite for the visitor to ask the host

the price of that particular article, and to ask him, if the price is

considered reasonable, to sell it to him. Nor is it thought derogatory

for the host to sell his belongings, and so the bargain is struck when

both parties can come to terms. The whole proceeding is conducted with

the shrewdness and vigilant attention to details which characterise

regular businessmen.

It is interesting to note that even boy-disciples in monasteries are

traders in their own way, and do not hesitate to invest their money

whenever they happen to notice in the shops or other places articles

that appeal to their fancy. These they bring home and either sell,

(generally at a large profit) to other boys, or exchange for other

objects.

One great evil attends this propensity, and that is the danger of

stimulating cunning practices, each party trying to impose upon the

other in all those dealings.

Three Years in Tibet · 第 64 / 103 章