CHAPTER LIII.

Scholastic Aspirants.

First, to speak of the nationalities of the aspirants; the students

in the three great colleges are not solely natives of Tibet; they

comprise Mongols proper, and also Khams, who belong to a somewhat

different race. In fact it is customary to place Mongols first in point

of numbers, then Tibetans, and last of all Khams. These three groups

of students are as distinct in their characteristics as they are in

their nationalities. Tibetans, generally speaking, are a very quiet,

courteous, and intelligent set of students, but are not at all inclined

to be diligent--indeed they are as a rule as lazy as they can be.

The fact that they are very dirty in their habits seems to come from

this their national weakness of being extremely and eternally idle.

During winter days, for instance, a Tibetan bonze who possesses the

ordinary means of living will simply do no work, beyond attending to

the routine of chanting the sacred text in the service-hall, and making

trips to the monastery kitchen for his ration of tea. When the weather

is fine he spends all his leisure hours basking in the warm sun and

squatting naked in front of his cell. Nothing can be more significant

of his instinctive indolence than the sight of him as he sits dozing

there the whole day long, putting on his head to dry a waste scrap of

some woollen stuff, with which he occasionally blows his nose. Such

behavior, excusable only in an old or decrepit person, is nothing

unusual in many of the young Tibetan priests. How lazy and sluggish the

average Tibetans are, it is almost beyond the power of Westerners to

imagine.

Not so with the Mongols: one never sees them enjoying themselves in

such an indolent fashion. They study very hard and always take a very

active part in the catechetical exercises, principally because they

are alive to the purpose for which they have come so far from their

home and country. Four hundred out of the five hundred Mongols are

generally fine students; while the ratio has to be inverted in the case

of Tibetans, four hundred and fifty out of five hundred of whom are

but trash. In consequence of this, the bulk of the “students militant”

or warrior-priests of whom I have already spoken are Tibetans, Khams

and Mongols being seldom found among them. Mongols are studious and

progressive, but one common fault with them is that they are very

quick-tempered, so that the slightest thing causes them to flare up

in tremendous rage. Being always conscious of the fact that they are

the most assiduous of the students, and that the largest number of the

winners of the doctor’s degree always come from amongst them, they are

very proud and uppish. This Mongolian pride makes most Mongols, even

those that try to be calm and well-balanced, to be pitied for their

narrow-mindedness and petulance, in spite of all their other numerous

good qualities. A Mongol has it in him to become a great leader

like Genghis Khan; but the career of that great conqueror was but a

meteoric burst of short-lived splendor, and, like him, the Mongols as a

nation seem to be incapable of consolidating their national greatness

on anything like a permanent basis, or of carrying out any schemes

calculated to secure the permanent progress and improvement of their

country.

The Khams, on the other hand, are infinitely superior in this respect

both to the Mongols and the Tibetans, and this in spite of the fact

that their country is generally supposed to be no better than a den

of thieves and robbers. A Kham is excitable, but he does not lose

his temper like a Mongol: indeed, he can be admirably patient and

persevering when he wills. In point of physique, too, he is far ahead

as a rule of both the others. The Khams are chivalrous men, blunt

and outspoken, and averse to flattery. My observations among the

students of Sera lead me to infer that more open-hearted, unaffected

students are to be found among the Khams than among any other of the

nationalities represented there. Mongols will occasionally demean

themselves by fawning upon others in order to gain some object dear

to their hearts, but the worst sinners in this respect are the

Tibetans--so much so that the Khams, unless they are thoroughly

Tibetanised Khams, are unwilling to enter into friendship with them. It

is said to the honor of the Khams that even their robbers are honorable

and will often give a helping hand to the poor and weak, and rescue

those who stand in imminent peril. The Kham women and children, as a

rule, share in the apathetic appearance of the men. They are often very

unbecomingly dressed and have none of the attractiveness of the Tibetan

women, who, like their husbands, fathers, and brothers, are generally

well-spoken and affable in outward demeanor, however full of thorns and

brambles their innermost hearts may be.

I have been able to give here only a brief and cursory notice of some

of the characteristic features of the principal tribes that inhabit

these unfrequented regions of Central Asia, with a few of the most

essential of the points of difference between them. I might carry

my subdivision much further, and speak of the Khams as Mankhams,

Bas, Tsarongs, etc., but that would involve a very long and not very

profitable discourse, and I therefore pass on to topics of greater

interest.

To interpret correctly the aspirations of Tibetan Lamas, their ideals,

or the final goal which they strive to attain, it may safely be said

that their main purpose in entering the priesthood is only to procure

the largest possible amount of fortune, as well as the highest possible

fame in that entirely secluded world of theirs. To seek religious

truth and to practise religious austerities with a view to acquiring

knowledge and character sufficient to carry out the noble work of

delivering men and leading them to salvation, is not at all what they

wish to do. If they study, they do so as a means of gaining reputation,

of extending their influence, and mainly of accumulating wealth. They

simply desire to escape from the painful struggle of life in the world

of competition, and to enjoy lazy and comfortable days on earth as well

as in heaven. Nine hundred and ninety-nine out of a thousand seem to

have no conception of the problems of the future life, and there is

nothing deep in their religious life. “It is more blessed to receive

than to give” is their motto, and hence the monastic life, study and

service, in its fullest sense, goes in their eyes for nothing. The

reason why these priests and scholars, who ought to be the noblest and

most unselfish of all men, have been brought to this state of apostasy,

seems to be this.

In Tibet, the social estimation of priest and scholars is made, not

according to their learning or virtue, nor yet according to the amount

of good they have done for their fellow-men, but entirely according to

the amount of property which they possess. Thus, a priest who owns an

estate of a thousand dollars, however mean and ignorant he may be, is

much more influential and far more highly esteemed in society than a

learned and virtuous priest who lives on a small income. They believe

in the almighty dollar, and twist S. Paul’s saying: “Though I have the

gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries and all knowledge; and

though I have all faith, so that I can remove mountains, and have not”

money, “I am nothing.” They are earnest therefore in making money, in

whatever way they find profitable. Some of them, as I have said, are

engaged in trade or industrial enterprises, and others in agriculture

or stock-farming. Besides, it is their custom to appropriate to

themselves the remuneration which they receive when they visit laymen’s

houses for the purpose of chanting the Sacred Text for them, in

accordance with their priestly duty.

It is pitiful to contemplate the condition of the students who, without

scholarship or support, are preparing in the colleges for their

degrees. They live hard struggling lives of study in the midst of want,

and yet the only stimulus that encourages them is the expectation that

they will be able to enjoy the comfortable life of high priests, when

they have got through the prescribed course of study and have achieved

the Doctorate. They do really suffer, but their sufferings are not, so

far as I know, those of the man of self-denial who strives hard and

struggles against difficulties for the noble ambition of winning souls

to salvation, or for some humanitarian purpose; they are exceedingly

patient in suffering, simply with the hope of reaping ease and comfort

in the latter part of their lives. After a hard monastic life of some

twenty years when they have completed the whole course of study, these

poor students will have the honor of getting the Doctor’s degree, a

title implying the highest learning, but in undue proportion costly;

for besides spending nearly half their lives in toils and struggles to

get it, they have to give a grand feast to all their schoolmasters to

celebrate their graduation. It is true, the feast consists only of meat

gruel, a sort of porridge of meat mixed with rice, but the quantity

given is enormous, as there are many capacious stomachs to be filled.

To give a feast of this sort requires some five hundred yen at the

very least, each bowlful costing over twenty-five sen. Of course, the

poverty-stricken priests cannot possibly provide the money themselves,

but fortunately the diploma has its use this time; their credit has so

much improved that the wealthy priests who turned up their noses at

needy students are very willing now to supply them with the necessary

money, simply because they have the degree and chance to pay interest.

By the means of this convenient credit transaction they can procure the

means of giving the necessary banquet and the wealthy priests get not

only credit for their generosity, but also interest for their money.

But nothing is more disappointing than the future life of those poor

priests, who will probably never succeed in paying off the burden of

debt, or, if exceptionally fortunate, they may succeed in doing so only

after long and hard struggles. It is a sad thing to contemplate, but

such is the hard lot of most Tibetan priests.

Three Years in Tibet · 第 53 / 103 章