very populous, abounding in provisions, and the people great traders.
Dagwumba, in particular, is a powerful state, and its capital, Yahndi,
of considerable magnitude, and a great emporium for trade. Still more to
the north-west, and amongst the Kong hills, are other powerful states.
To the northward of the chief range, according to Bowditch, is the
kingdom of Moozee; but, from other authorities, particularly Park, we
learn that Moozee is the capital of the great kingdom of Gotto. It is a
very common practice among negroes to place the capital for the kingdom
and the kingdom for the capital. Moosee lies in about 10° 20′ north
latitude, and 0° 45′ west longitude.
The soil in the kingdom of Dahomey is composed of a deep, rich, reddish
clay, intermixed with sand, and scarcely containing a stone the size of
an egg throughout the whole country. This affords a clear proof of its
being low and level: it is very fertile. The surrounding countries
exhibit the same features.
Westward of the Rio Lagos is the Rio Volta, a large, deep, and rapid
stream, which is increased by the junction of the Laka at no great
distance from the sea. The sources of both rivers we readily recognise
in the Adirri and Addifoosoo, which take their rise in the eastern parts
of the mountains of Kong, which are here so elevated as to be covered
with snow, and amongst which springs the chief branch of the Niger. The
Kirhala, and the Ba Nimma, also here take their rise. The mouth of the
Rio Volta, between the breakers, is a mile broad, and has three fathoms
water; sixty miles upward it is four fathoms deep. The stream flows
through fertile and populous districts; the natives hold it in great
veneration. Teak trees abound on its banks. The climate is fine, and the
country healthy. A branch from the Rio Lagos communicates with the Rio
Volta, in many places only divided by a sand-bank from the sea. All the
natives on this part of the coast are industrious, and great traders.
Many Arabic words are found mixed with their languages; several Arabian
customs remain. About Fidah the country is fertile and delightful. The
land rises gently from the sea, covered with lofty trees growing in
regular order, as if planted by human hands.
Beyond Cape Three Points is the Boosempra, the Ancobra, and Assinee
rivers, the latter the largest, but all comparatively small streams.
Westward, as far as to the Mesurada, the rivers that enter the sea are
mere torrents, a proof of the shortness of their course, and also that
the river called “Zamma,” already mentioned, must be a branch of the
Niger. The coast here is all bold and high. Inland, the country is
exceedingly mountainous, rising in height and grandeur. Sierra Leone
(hitherto supposed to be the chariot of the gods of the ancients,) seems
to be the termination of the mighty chain which stretches north-east by
east, through those parts of Africa; and it is very curious, that this
chain appears to run exactly parallel to the grand chain of Mount Atlas.
Perhaps it stretches across the Continent to Egypt.
Whether the Congo is the Niger or not—whether the latter flows to the
Egyptian Nile, and whether or not it terminates in a lake, swamps, or
sands in the interior, still the Bights of Biafra and Benin are the
points from whence to set out to ascertain and determine this important
point. A considerable portion of the journey, we know from the best
authority, can be travelled by a water conveyance. The whole distance
cannot much exceed 300 miles, till the point would be determined. The
nations and people on the route are comparatively peaceable, civilized,
and friendly to Europeans. At old Calabar, different European languages
are understood. The English language is spoken, and taught, and read,
and written. They keep regular mercantile accounts in our language;
hence good guides could be procured. In any other route from the west,
from the north, or from the east, into the interior, the path is through
dreadful barren deserts, countries wild and rugged, and men fierce and
rude, and by religion the most inveterate enemies to the Christian name.
The distance also, by any one of these routes, to be travelled before
the points alluded to could be decidedly determined, is about 2500
miles. It is not difficult, therefore, to determine the route which
should be chosen.
Coomassie in the south, Mourzook in the north, and Cobbè in the east of
Africa, are points accurately ascertained. Timbuctoo, in the centre, is
tolerably well known. It is satisfactory that, taking the bearings, and
calculating the distances on these by the most accurate scale, as all
these are given by authorities wholly unknown to, and unconnected with
each other, the positions of places and rivers agree with a remarkable
degree of accuracy. In this manner the map which accompanies this work
was constructed.
Agadez, according to Leo and Joannes Bleav, is about 160 leagues distant
from Cano. This corresponds very nearly indeed with the position where
it is placed according to the accounts obtained by Ritchie and Bowditch.
From Cashna to Zegzeg, according to Leo, is 150 miles, which will fix
the position of the latter place about 100 miles north-east by north of
the Niger at the point where Sidi Hamed crossed the great ridge. The
mountainous nature of Zegzeg, mentioned by Leo, is thus supported by the
testimony of Sidi Hamed. From Cashna, westward to Gonjah, (Kong, or
districts near it,) according to Shereef Imhammed, is 97 days’ journey,
which, from the nature of the country passed through, and the route
taken, will agree with sufficient accuracy with the position of Kong, as
placed by the information given to Bowditch. From Gonjah, or Kong, to
the sea coast, through Tonouah, is 46 days’ journey according to Shereef
Imhammed. This will be found to agree very nearly with the accounts
obtained by Bowditch. Kashna is stated to be east of Timbuctoo 690
miles, and west of Bornou 650 miles. (_Rees’ Encyc._) Both these
distances will be found to agree well with the position of Kashna, as
obtained from Bowditch and others. Park’s guide, Amadou Fatouma, told
him that from Sansanding to Kashna was a journey of 60 days or two
months. Much of this journey was by water, and consequently more
expeditious than by land.
From Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara in Dar Saley, to Bornou, according to
Browne, was a journey of 60 days. According to Ledyard, the distance
from Mourzook to Bornou is 660 geographical miles. According to
Burkhardt it is 50 days’ journey, (by others 52,) which, at an average
of 13 miles per day, is 650 miles. From Mourzook to Agadez, according to
Ledyard, is 479 geographical miles: from other authorities it is 47
days’ journey, and 17 days’ journey additional to Kashna, which is
nearly south of Mourzook. From Tripoli to Timbuctoo, according to
Ritchie, is a journey of 80 days. The two places are 1260 geographical
miles distant from each other. This would give an average of 15½ miles
for each day’s journey, which, being through an open country, exceeds
considerably what can be made good in one day in the woody and
mountainous districts.
South of the Niger we will find the reckonings equally exact. From
Coomassie to Yahndi is 24 days’ journey. This will place Yahndi in north
latitude 8° 38′, and 0° 55′ east longitude. From Yahndi to Yaoora is 42
days’ journey, and the same distance to the point where the Niger is
crossed in the route to the city of Houssa. From Inta to Timbuctoo is 41
days’ journey; from Coomassie to Kong is 24 days’ journey, and thence to
Jinnë is 42 days’ journey, according to the accounts which Bowditch
obtained from different authorities. From Elmina, on the Gold Coast, to
Oenessy, on the river Ingaee, (evidently the Niger at Jinnë or Lake
Dibbie,) by a route through Buntakoo, Inta, Oalla, &c. is, according to
Robertson, (p. 180,) 60 days’ journey. Calculating the day’s journey at
10 geographical miles made good south of the Niger, and 13 miles, (12 to
13 is the number allowed by _Browne_, p. 448,) upon an average, in the
cultivated countries north of the Niger, the reader will perceive how
nearly different authorities, wholly unconnected with each other, are
made to agree; a proof of the general accuracy, and also that the proper
scale for estimating these days journey has been followed.
To explore Central Africa to its deepest recesses—to acquire the command
and control over the whole of its trade, we require only two great
stations: first, an insular one near the grand estuary of the Niger;
second, as the river has several navigable estuaries, another station in
the interior is necessary, either where the stream divides or unites, as
may be found most eligible or most healthy. With these we command the
whole trade of Northern Africa, from the source of the Senegal to
Darfur, and from Bornou to Benin. A third station, at the Rio Lagos,
would give us the command of the trade into the deepest recesses of the
Kong mountains. If ships cannot navigate to all these more distant
parts, we know that boats, and vessels of a magnitude sufficient to
render the conveyance of goods cheap, expeditious, and easy, can and do.
Steam-boats could navigate to the most distant parts—to Balia, to
Bornou, and Dar Saley. Ten, twelve, fifteen, or twenty days, would serve
to reach Timbuctoo, and the most distant parts from our interior
settlement. Steam would impel them upwards; the current would bring them
down without any expense of fuel. Coals could be carried out cheap; wood
can be had in abundance. Who can calculate the advantages that would
result from such an intercourse?
The Island of Fernando Po is the insular station which nature points
out, I may say that she has planted, for that important end. This island
is about forty miles distant from the mouth of Bannee River—the same
distance from the estuary of Cross and Elrei rivers—scarcely farther
removed from Cameroons and Malemba rivers, and about 200 and 220 miles
from the Moöhnda and Rio de Gaboon, thus commanding the entrance of all
these rivers, if they proceed from the Niger, or whether they proceed
from the Niger or not. Even if the Niger flowed to the Congo, after
throwing off all the rivers mentioned—even though the Gir were a
separate stream, and besides throwing off the rivers south of the high
land of Cameroons, it continued its course to the Congo, then the value
of Fernando Po would by this be greatly enhanced; because, besides an
entrance into Northern Africa, we should command an entrance into
Southern Africa also, as the Congo is not navigable near its mouth by
reason of cataracts. The Island of Fernando Po has been successively
abandoned by the Dutch, Portuguese, and Spaniards, and the title to it
could thus readily be acquired. The land is very high, and therefore
healthy. It is 36 miles long, and 15 broad, and could be made very
productive. On each side it has fine and safe anchorage; the inhabitants
are warlike, but their subjugation would be an easy task. Prince’s
Island, 110 miles south-west, is a fine soil and climate, and might also
be taken possession of, to prevent any other European nation from
annoying us. St. Thomas’s, under the equator, is very unhealthy, and
both it and Annabon is too distant from the coast to render them of such
importance as the former two.
The reason why an insular situation is necessary is obvious: it would be
healthier than the low lands on the coast of the continent. It could be
kept and protected by a naval power, at much less expense than a
settlement on the coast of the mainland. It would prove a station which
would equally command every approach, while it would prove an
impregnable bulwark in the hands of the Mistress of the Ocean, from
whence our internal establishment could always be supplied, and to which
it could look for succour and effectual assistance in case of any
emergency.
Fernando Po is, of all places, the best, and, it may be added, the only
proper station on the African coast, for our cruizers to watch and cut
up the slave trade, which is, and while it continues, will always be,
greatest on the coast opposite. Our naval officers know, and are well
convinced of this. Sierra Leone is near 1600 miles from this island, and
from the prevailing winds, vessels from the Bights of Benin and Biafra,
where the greatest number of captures are made, are forced to beat all
the way to Sierra Leone, which renders the passage exceedingly tedious.
As the vessels now employed in the slave trade are small, and built to
sail fast, that they may elude our cruizers, and being thus exceedingly
crowded, the length of the passage to Sierra Leone proves fatal to many
of the slaves. Sierra Leone is also the most unhealthy spot on the whole
western coast of Africa, and, from its situation, must remain so. It is
a grave for Europeans; and whoever turns his eye to the map, will
readily perceive that it is the worst chosen station on all the coast of
Africa for an extensive political or commercial establishment. From the
nature of the country behind this settlement, it is obvious it can have
no communication with the interior but by land carriage, and this, from
the mountainous nature of the country, is almost impracticable. It has
nothing in it or about it that ever can give it an ascendancy in Africa,
and an establishment on the Niger and Fernando Po would soon shew its
insignificance.
But, while possession of Fernando Po would, in time of war, completely
command all the grand outlets of Central Africa, and place whatever
European settlements were therein planted, completely at the mercy of
Great Britain, still the possession of that island alone, would neither
give us the monopoly of the trade to those parts, nor prevent other
European nations from sharing in that trade with us in time of peace. A
commanding station, however, inland on any spot which could controul the
united stream, would give to this nation the complete monopoly and every
advantage. Without this, Fernando Po would only become valuable to Great
Britain when war occurred betwixt her and any European power which had
settlements in the interior. Without such a controuling settlement also,
in the interior, the trade from Great Britain to those Central parts of
Africa, laid open by these rivers, had much better, as more convenient
and less expensive, be carried on direct from any port in Great Britain,
to Timbuctoo, &c. (should the Niger prove navigable for ships) than to
have the goods landed, and afterwards reshipped at Fernando Po. This
island may be of great use as a depot, till the point for forming a
settlement in the interior is finally pitched upon, and rendered secure
against any attack. In choosing the position for this settlement, care
must be taken not only to take into consideration the security and
advantage for the present moment, but those great advantages and
important results which may be fairly anticipated for the future.
Granting that the navigation of the Niger was interrupted at Boussa, by
reason of rapids or rocks rising amidst the stream; still, we know that
the river can be navigated in safety from Boussa upwards, and from
Boussa downwards. Therefore, on this commanding spot, let the British
standard be firmly planted, and no power on Africa could tear it up. A
trifling land carriage would then give this nation nearly all the
advantages of an open navigation, and by such a natural barrier, place
the Niger completely under her controul. Firmly planted in Central
Africa, the British flag would become the rallying point for all that is
honourable, useful, beneficial, just, and good. Under the mighty shade
thereof, the nations would seek security, comfort, and repose. Allies
Great Britain would find in abundance. They would flock to her
settlement, if it had the power and the means to protect them. The
resources of Africa, and the energies of Africa, under a wise and
vigorous policy, may be made to subdue and controul Africa. Let Britain
only form such a settlement, and give it that countenance, support, and
protection, which the wisdom and energy of British Councils can give,
and which the power and resources of the British empire can so well
maintain, and Central Africa to future ages will remain a grateful and
obedient dependency of this empire. The latter will become the centre of
all the wealth, and the focus of all the industry of the former. Then
the Niger, like the Ganges, would acknowledge Great Britain as its
protector—our King as its Lord.
The extent of country and population whose improvements, labours, and
wants would be dependent upon, and stimulated to exertions by, a
settlement on the Niger, is prodigious, and all together unequalled. The
extent compromises a country of nearly 40° of longitude, from W. to E.,
and through the greater part of this extent of 20° latitude, from N. to
S., a space almost equal to Europe. Where the confluence of the Gir, or
the Bahr Kulla with the Niger takes place, is the spot to erect the
Capital of our great African establishments. A city built there, under
the protecting wings of Great Britain, and extended, enriched, and
embellished by the industry, skill, and spirit of her sons, would ere
long become the capital of Africa. Fifty millions of people, yea, even a
greater number, would be dependent on it.
Whoever turns his eyes to the map, must at one glance perceive that this
is a kingdom—a colony—a trade in which no foreign power whatever could
come into competition with us, or endanger its stability and prosperity.
Insurmountable barriers oppose on every side. On the north and on the
east deserts intervene, across which all attempts at mercantile
competition must be fruitless, and where no hostile armies in any force
can find their way. From the west, south-west, and south-east,
impenetrable mountains (for I may say these are so for any purposes of
trade or attempt at invasion) arise, insuperable barriers. By the
majestic stream of the Niger an entrance can only be obtained. The
Mistress of the Ocean may place a barrier there, which she, and she
only, can shut and open at her pleasure. The rival which can approach
nearest, must do so by means of the Senegal. But this stream ceases to
be navigable above Galam. Thence to the Niger is nearly 200 miles,
across such mountains, and through such forests, as may be considered
impassable for any army of strength, or for any mercantile speculation
which could alarm or shake the prosperity of the settlements eastward on
the Niger.
The French nation have long looked towards Africa with an anxious and a
longing eye, in order to repair the losses which revolution and war have
occasioned in their colonial establishments. France is making every
effort to explore and collect information concerning the interior parts
of the northern division of that Continent. She is already established
on the Senegal, and commands that river; and if the supineness and
carelessness of Great Britain allow that powerful, enterprising, and
ambitious rival to step before us and fix herself securely on the lower
Niger, then it is evident, that with such a settlement in addition to
her command of the Senegal, France will command all Northern Africa. The
consequences cannot fail to be fatal to the best interests of this
country, and by means surer than even by war or conquest, tend
ultimately to bring ruin on our best Tropical Colonial establishments.
She will then meet this country with a decided superiority in every
market, not only with all colonial productions at present known, but
also with others peculiar to Africa, and as yet, little known in Europe.
The rivers are the roads in the Torrid Zone. Nature seems to have
intended these as the great help in introducing agriculture and
commerce. Wherever the continents are most extensive, there we find the
most magnificent rivers flowing through them, opening up a communication
from side to side. What is still more remarkable, and becomes of great
utility, is, that these mighty currents flow against the prevailing
winds, thus rendering the navigation easy, which would otherwise be
extremely tedious and difficult. This is the case with the great Maranon
and Oronoco in South America. The prevailing trade winds blow right up
their streams. This is the case with the Niger, and in a more particular
manner during the time it is in flood. For ten months in the year, but
more particularly from May till November, the prevailing wind in the
Bights of Benin and Biafra is from south-west, thus blowing right up all
the outlets of the Niger. January and February are the months during
which the Harmattan wind blows, a dry wind coming from the north-east,
and from the great deserts south of the Mediterranean. In the Congo,
Tuckey found the breeze generally blowing up the stream. It is needless
to point out, at length, the advantages which may be derived from this
wise regulation in the natural world. The meanest capacity may
comprehend these.
But it is not the west coasts and interior of Northern Africa only that
afford eligible situations for settlements, and a wide field for
profitable commerce. The east coasts afford ample range for both. From
the Cape of Good Hope, but more particularly from Caffraria to Cosseir
on the Red Sea, there are rich and ample fields. These were the mines of
wealth for the ancient world, and from whence the Phenicians, Tyre and
Zidon drew their golden stores. By political events, cut off for ages
from the civilized portions of the earth, these countries have become
sunk in ignorance and barbarity, and their capabilities remain neglected
and unknown. But the materials remain. And could Tyre and Zidon—cities
on the Mediterranean in the earliest periods of history, while knowledge
was limited to what it is now—do what Great Britain cannot? Certainly
not. We have more than they ever had within our power. Immense rivers
flow on the east coast of Africa. The Zambezi, or, as it is called at
its mouth, Quilimanca, enters the sea in about 18° south latitude, and
by five different mouths, forming so many Deltas. Far into the interior,
and before it divides into branches, it is a league broad. It inundates
the country in April, a proof that its sources are towards the Southern
Tropic. The country up this river, and its tributary streams, is very
rich in metals and minerals, as it is also towards the south about
Sofala, so famous for its gold mines. Northwards are other important
rivers, particularly the Zebee. But the grand station in these parts is
the Island of Socotora, to the east of Cape Guardafui. In the hands of a
naval power, such as Great Britain, this shuts up the Red Sea most
completely, and gives us the command of Western Arabia, and all the
inlets into Abyssinia and Nubia. The coasts of Africa opposite, are the
lands so famed in ancient times for myrrh and incense. It brings us into
immediate contact with, and in fact enables us to command, the fertile
kingdom of Aden on the Arabian coast, so famous for its spices.
Possession of this island would enable us to shut and open the Red Sea
at our pleasure, in all the trade from the East Indies, or indeed from
any part. A small exertion might get from the Turks Massouah, and
Suakim, and Cosseir, ports on the west coast of the Red Sea. These
places are of no use to them, but would be most valuable to us.
Unfold the map of the world. We command the Ganges—fortified at Bombay,
the Indus is our own. Possessed of the islands in the mouth of the
Persian Gulf, we command the outlets of Persia, and the mouths of the
Euphrates, and consequently of countries the cradle of the human race.
We command at the Cape of Good Hope; Gibraltar and Malta belonging to
us, we controul the Mediterranean. Let us plant the British standard on
the Island of Socotora—upon the Island of Fernando Po—and inland upon
the banks of the Niger, and then we may say Asia and Africa—for all
their productions and all their wants—are under our controul. It is in
our power. Nothing can prevent us. A tenth part of the sum which our
merchants and manufacturers have lost in overstocking old markets, would
have been sufficient to fix us securely in Africa, and to have developed
completely all the mercantile stores which she possesses, and the
improvements of which she is susceptible.