The day has been fearfully hot, as usual, and they have done a long

march. They were up last night on picket, and have had nothing to eat

all day as yet but a biscuit or two and a cup of milkless coffee. This

sort of thing has been going on for months. They are tired and hungry

and footsore. More than one falls back where he sits and drops into a

sleep of utter exhaustion. But of any serious grumbling or discontent

there is no sign. A few curse at the heat perhaps, but their hardships

are mostly a subject for rough chaff and Cockney jokes. You thought you

were roughing it a good deal, but look at the state these men are in.

You gave yourself credit for some endurance, but look at their

unaffected cheeriness. The whole army is the same. In their thousands,

as you see them pass, the prevailing expression down all the swarthy

faces is one of unfailing good-humour. They make no more of their

hardships than Sandow of throwing about bars and bells that would crush

an ordinary man flat. It dawns on one, the depth of manhood that is

implied in endurance like this. "We sometimes get licked at first, but

we mostly come out all right in the end." Tommy's good-natured face as

he sweats it across the veldt gives some meaning to that boast.

In the crowds of his mates in the East End, in crowds of the unemployed

and the like, you see the same temper--a sort of rough, good spirits, an

indomitable, incorrigible cheerfulness that nothing, no outward misery,

seems able to damp. In West End crowds (Hyde Park, for instance) you

don't get this. There are smiles and laughs, as you look about at the

faces, but they seem merely individual--one here, another there. In the

crowd of roughs--though goodness knows there is little cause for

merriment, so far as one can see--there is a quite different, deeper,

and more universal feeling of bluff cheeriness, not put on, but

unconscious, as though, in spite of present misery, things were going

right for them somehow. I should say an East End crowd gave one a far

deeper impression of animal spirits, of hope and cheeriness, than a West

End one. And it is the same with soldiers. The officers are fine

fellows, but in this point they yield to the soldiers.

And it means a lot. Of what use is even courage itself if it goes with

impatience and a flash in the pan endurance? This quality of

cheerfulness is really the quality that outlasts all others. It means

not only that you have an army in good fighting trim to-day, but that

this time next year, or the year after, you will still have an army in

good fighting trim. In the long-run it wears down all opposition, but it

is not a characteristic you notice at first. Gradually it makes itself

felt, and gradually it governs your estimate of the whole army. And then

the peculiar wickedness of Tommy (a child's naughtiness for

superficiality) ceases to offend you so much. Rather your own regulation

code seems a trifle less important than it did. Let's all lie and steal;

what does it signify? I would lie and steal till the crack of doom to

gain the serene endurance of the British soldier.[1]

Of his courage one need scarcely speak. It is a subject on which a great

deal of rubbish has been talked. It is not true that all soldiers are

brave, nor is it true that even brave soldiers will go anywhere and do

anything. On the other hand, it certainly is true that our soldiers'

courage--that is, their apparent unconsciousness of danger--strikes one

as very remarkable. You need not believe more about the _light of

battle_ and the _warrior's lust_, and all that sort of thing, than you

want to. There is very little excitement in a modern battle, and the

English soldier is not an excitable man, but this only makes the display

of courage more striking. Nothing can be more terrible than one of our

_slow_ charges, a charge in which all the peril which used to be

compressed into a hundred yards' rush in hot blood is spread out over an

afternoon's walk. I am sure any man who has ever taken part in one of

those ghastly processions, and, at thirty yards interval, watched the

dust-spots, at first promiscuous, gradually concentrating round him, and

listened to the constant soft whine or nearer hiss of passing bullets,

and seen men fall and plodded on still, solitary, waiting his turn,

would look upon the maddest and bloodiest rush of old days as a positive

luxury by comparison.

What I think about our soldiers' courage is that it is of such a sort

that it takes very little out of them. One of the foreign officers on

Lord Roberts' staff, in a criticism in one of his own papers, has

written that the English infantry, more than any he knows, has the knack

of fighting and marching and keeping on at it, day after day, without

getting stale or suffering from any reaction. The fact is, our Tommies

go into a fight with much the same indifferent good-humour that they do

everything else with. Towards the end of each day's march the soldiers

all begin to look out for firewood, and if at that time you knock up

against the enemy, you may see our infantry advancing to the attack with

big logs tied to their backs and sticking up over their heads. Though it

encumbers and bothers them and makes them much more conspicuous, not a

Tommy will abandon his wood. Supper is a reality. The thought of being

shot does not bother him. Men who fight like this can fight every day.

Taking him altogether, then, your general impression of the Tommy is one

of solid good temper and strength. Of his faults and failings, when you

get to know him, you cannot help making light; for his faults are faults

of conduct only, while his strength is strength of character. As an

individual, I daresay you could criticise him, but in the mass, for the

strength of breed he shows and the confidence he gives you in your race,

you will have nothing but admiration.

I have told you what I could about him, because he is a man you have

never seen, and will probably never have a chance of seeing. For no one

who has not seen Tommy in the field has seen him at all. If you love

England, you must love the army. If you are a patriot, not merely a

Jingo, the sight of these ragged battalions passing will give you such a

thrill as only very fine and splendid things do give; and very proud you

will feel if ever you have had a hand in sharing their work and been

admitted to some sort of fellowship with them.

These are the lads who in their packed thousands tramped yesterday

through Pretoria. Past old Kruger's house, a cottage you might almost

call it, with its lions in front and several old burghers in black

crying in the verandah, we went at a foot's pace, choking in the cloud

of red dust, with the strains of "God Save the Queen" in our ears. We

emerge into the square. The Volksraad is on our right; then the Grand

Hotel, with all its windows full of English people, or sympathisers with

England, many of them women, all waving handkerchiefs and raising a

cracked cheer as we pass. I was staring at all this, whilst a big band

on the right broke merrily out with the "Washington Post," and did not

see till I almost brushed his horse's nose, our Commander-in-Chief

standing like an amiable little statue at the head of all his generals

and their staffs, with finger raised to helmet. It is quite a moment to

remember, and I do really feel for an instant, what all the morning I

have been trying to feel, that we are what literary people call "making

history."

As for Pretoria itself, it is a pretty and well-wooded little place,

with pink and white oleander trees in blossom, fir-trees, gums, and

weeping-willows along the streams and round the little bungalow houses.

The shady gardens and cool verandahs give these houses a very inviting

air in this land of blazing sun. They have a comfortable, and at the

same time sociable, look, the houses being near by each other, but each

with a pretty garden and trees overhanging. Like all the works of these

very practical people, the place is designed for convenience and comfort

and not a bit for beauty. But the first two give it the last to some

extent, give it a sort of simple and homely beauty of its own which is

pleasing as far as it goes.

"Take heed to thyself, for the devil is unchained." We are told that

Christian De Wet is loose again, and is trifling with our lines of

communication. If this is so, our supplies will be cut off, the army

will be starved, and you will never get this letter. There has been a

pretty general hope that the taking of the capital would mean the end of

the war. "We have fired our last shot," said some. At least we counted

on a good rest. Alas! orders have just come in. Good-bye flowers and

shady gardens and dreams of bottled beer and a dinner at the club. We

march immediately.

Talking of soldiers, here is a soldier's story for you--

Officer (to distracted Tommy, fleeing for his life under shower of

bullets): "Dash you! what the dash are you running for?"

Tommy, tearing on: "'Cause I ain't got no b----y wings."

Here's another--

First Tommy: "And the bullets was comin' that thick----"

Second Tommy: "Well, but 'adn't you got no ant'ills?"

First Tommy: "Ant'ills! Why, there wasn't ant'ills 'nough for the

orficers."

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: This account is true of a type, but I should not let it

stand if I thought it would make the reader forget that, besides these,

there are any number of men in the army who lead lives in every way

straight and honourable.]

LETTER XIX

THE MARCH SOUTH

BETHLEHEM, _July 14_, 1900.

Whenever in this campaign we have dealt the enemy what looked like a

crushing blow, he has always hit back instantly at us. When Methuen

reached the limit of his advance at the Modder River victory, the Boers

were round immediately threatening us from behind. When we took

Bloemfontein they at once swarmed round to the east and south, and dealt

us two nasty blows at Sanna's Post and Reddersberg; and no sooner had we

taken Pretoria than the same activity was displayed again.

They threatened us now from two points. Louis Botha had collected a

large force, and was watching us from the hills east of the town, while

the everlasting De Wet, far south, was breaking up the railway and

burning our letters. The first thing we did, and we did it the very day

after entering the capital, was to march against Botha. Ian Hamilton has

paid our little corps the compliment of taking it on as his bodyguard.

He is a general that inspires every one under him with great confidence.

It is curious, by the way, how very soon troops get to know the worth of

a leader; just as a pack of hounds knows by instinct when it is properly

handled. Outsiders may argue about this or that general, and analyse

his tactics, and never very likely get much nearer the truth (for there

is a monstrous lot of luck one way or the other in all manoeuvres, and

the ones often succeed that didn't ought to, and _vice versa_); but once

you are under a man, you don't need to argue; you know. We all know that

Ian Hamilton, with his pleasant well-bred manner, and the mutilated hand

dangling as he rides, is the best man we have had over us yet, and we

would all do great things to show our devotion.

The Diamond Hill action was one of those great big affairs which it

would be impossible to explain without a plan of the country and a lot

of little flags. Our attack from extreme left to right was spread over a

frontage of, I daresay, twenty miles. The idea was for the mounted

troops to turn the enemy's flanks and let in the infantry in front. Ian

Hamilton had to deal with the Boer left flank, French with the right. Of

course we saw and heard nothing of French, who might as well have been

fighting in another planet, so far as we knew. Our difficulty here, as

on some former occasions, was to find the limit of their flanks. The

more we stretch out, the more they stretch out. They have the advantage

of being all mounted, while the bulk of our force is infantry, massed

inertly in the middle; and also from the lofty position they occupy they

can command a bird's-eye view of the wide valley across which we are

advancing, and perceive the disposition of our forces, and in what

strength we are threatening the various points of defence, while their

forces are quite concealed from us. This is so much in their favour

that, on our flank at least, it is we, and not they, who are threatened

with being outflanked.

Their position could scarcely have been stronger if nature had designed

it for the purpose. A low range of hills gives admittance on the west

side to a long wide valley, and on the east side of this a steep rocky

range rises boldly up, showing in the sky a level outline like a rampart

fringed with wall-like slabs of rock or detached masses, giving

excellent cover from shrapnel. But besides this higher and last line of

defence, there are some lower hills and slopes which project from the

main rampart and command the valley, while they are in turn commanded by

the heights. It is a two-step position, in fact. You carry the lower

step first, and immediately come under the fire of the upper. The

General told me next day that he thought it as strong as anything he had

seen on the Natal side, and Winston Churchill set the matter at rest by

pronouncing it stronger in point of formation than Spion Kop.

In the first day's fighting we drove them from the western hills and

across the valley, which was more fertile than usual and full of cover,

until we had forced them into the two-step eastern range. My own work

lay right out on the flank end, at the very finger-tips, where the

farthest limit of each force was trying to feel a way round the other.

Here, with some of the Camerons, we felt about the hills, shelling them

with a couple of guns for Boer sharpshooters, and occasionally flushing

one or two. We were rather detached and out of the main action, feeling

rather like a gun that has been sent to stop birds from "going back"

while the main battue is at work in front. We stayed out all day, and as

we rode in that night to headquarters the whole valley under the

starlight was echoing like a great gallery and bustling with the

multitude of our army arranging itself and settling down for the night.

We picked our way through the various convoys hurrying forward in search

of their brigades, but often losing their way or getting off the track,

checked by muddy fords, where an engulfed team wallows piteously,

barring the passage. We pass detachments of infantry hurrying in tired

and silent, and meet other detachments with blankets and greatcoats

coming out on picket. Waifs and strays, by ones and twos, who have lost

their way, shout for guidance, hallooing dismally for the brigades or

regiments to which they belong, and which many have small hope of

rejoining that night. Meantime, right down the valley and far across it,

the various camp-fires twinkle out like glow-worms. The air is keen and

frosty, and stars, clear and sharp as icicles, glitter all over the sky.

Above everything is still and calm, very well arranged evidently, and

everything in its proper place. Below all is confusion, noise, and

darkness, disappointment, and difficulty, vague wandering to and fro,

lamentations, and general chaos. They manage these things better up

there! However, after a bit order begins to reign. The several units

draw together. The camp-fires are beacons. The waggons struggle up. The

bleating of the lost sheep is gradually hushed, as one by one they find

their way to their various folds, and slowly, in spite of darkness and

broken ground, the tangle is smoothed out.

By a small farm, where the General lodges, blazes a huge fire. Round it

gather some staff officers, and among them, recognised from afar, are

the welcome tiger-skins of the Guides' officers. The Major sits by the

blaze in that familiar attitude of his, like a witch in "Macbeth," with

a wolf-skin karross drawn over his shoulders, and the firelight on his

swarthy face as he turns it up with a grim laugh to chaff the others

standing round. But there is rather a gloom on the party to-night. News

has just come in that poor Airlie, charging at the head of his Lancers,

has been killed. Many here knew him, and every one who knew him seems to

have been fond of him.

Winston Churchill turns up and enlivens us. There are several colonels

and senior officers squatting about, and Churchill takes the opportunity

of giving them a bit of his mind. He is much annoyed with the day's

proceedings. He has been a good deal shot at; so has the Duke, and so

has the General. They have had to use their Mauser pistols. This sort of

thing should not happen. Then where was French? Checked, indeed! a

pretty fine thing! And the Guards? The Guards were somewhere where they

had no business to be, instead of being somewhere else. Would any one

kindly tell him why the Guards were not somewhere else? And Churchill

(he has a face like a good-natured child, and looks about fourteen) eyes

the old colonels, who fidget nervously round the fire like disturbed

hens. He talks and argues incessantly, but very cleverly. Before he goes

he dashes off a sketch of South Africa's future with a few words about

farming and gold-mining. He gives us a cup of hot cocoa all round, which

he produces from nowhere, like a conjuring trick, re-arranges our fire,

tells us when the war will be over, and strolls off (daring the old

colonels with his eye to so much as look at him) to the farm to give the

General his final instructions about to-morrow's action.

Next day our infantry established itself on the lower step of the Boer

position, but the final ridge still remained in their hands. It was a

ding-dong fight between the two, for the positions were within

half-rifle shot of each other. However, we could not turn them out,

though we got a field-battery right up in the firing line, which cracked

shrapnel over them as hard as ever it could load and fire. They had

determined to hold that ridge till night gave them the opportunity of

moving off their waggons and guns safely; and hold it they did. No doubt

we could have carried it by storm, but crossing that thousand yards of

open ground would have meant a terrible loss, and the General did not

attempt it. As it was, there was a great deal of banging and blazing,

almost like the old Modder days, for a time; guns hard at it, and

Mausers and Lee-Metfords jabbering away at a great rate, though, as both

sides were under cover, the loss was not heavy. The firing went on till

pitch dark, and we camped close under the ridge we had won. Next morning

we found the ridge vacant, with only heaps of empty cartridge cans and

an occasional blood-stain on the rocks to show where our enemy had lain.

A little way out from Pretoria there are some very smart-looking new

houses, what they call "villa residences" in England, built in the

style, a sort of mild and tepid Gothic (what I call grocer's Gothic, for

it always reminds me of brown sugar and arrowroot), common around

watering-places; small gables sticking out everywhere, till it looks

like a cluster of dog-kennels; walls faced with ornamental tiles and

lath and plaster; small shrubberies round, and a name on the gate. There

were two especially beautiful ones. The General had one and we had the

other. Ours was quite new. There was no furniture in it; but this, as we

had been so long without it, we did not miss. But everything we really

needed--gorgeous wall-papers, and dados, and polished floors, and

electric-bells, and stained-glass windows--was there. We had hot baths

at the Grand Hotel, and we dined at the club, and we forgot all about

the war, and the veldt, and the dust, and the long marches, and the Boer

lurking in ambush, and the whispering bullet from the hill. This went on

for two days, and then we marched again, and we have been marching ever

since.

We left Pretoria on June 19th, and, taking it easy, reached Bethlehem on

July 9th, doing a bit under 200 miles in the twenty days. The meaning of

the new scheme begins to dawn on us. Clements and Paget have come up

from the west; Rundle is down south-west, near Ficksburg; the Basuto

border runs up from there south and south-east, and within the ground

thus enclosed we have penned a very considerable force of the enemy,

among whom is that Jack-in-the-box, Christian De Wet. We know they are

there, and indeed we have little fights with their scouts every day. The

question is, how are we to collar them? The country is very broken and

hilly and very extensive.

Hunter is looking after us now. Poor Ian Hamilton, as you will know, had

an accident at Heidelberg. His horse put a foot in an antbear's hole,

just in front of me as it happened, and came down, flinging the general

forward over his head. I thought he was killed, he lay so still, but it

was only his collar-bone and a bad shaking. He is in the field again

now.

Hunter has a great reputation as a fighter, which is rather alarming,

especially when we are confronted with such a poisonous country as the

one before us now; a medley of big mountain ranges, fantastically

heaped, stretching thirty miles south to Basutoland, and forming part of

the great mountain formation that reaches to and culminates in the

Drakensberg range. These hills are garrisoned by about 7000 Boers with

several guns, and De Wet to lead them; altogether a formidable force.

There is a saying, that you should not bite off more than you can chew.

I hope we have not done that. Hunter looks as if he could chew a good

lot, I think. Still the job is likely to be a difficult one to handle,

and if he asks my advice I shall tell him to leave it to Rundle.

I should think a life of this sort would be likely to have some

permanent effect on one's mind and intellect. The last mail--that is to

say, the last news of any sort of the outside world--which we have

received was on April 27th before leaving Bloemfontein; three months

less a week since any whisper concerning events or people out of our

immediate sight has reached us. My ignorance of things in general weighs

on me. It is a taste of life in the dark ages before modern inventions

kept one in touch with the world.

During all this time we have been wandering like an army in a dream over

the unlimited surface of the veldt. The same programme is repeated day

by day. A little before dawn you hear through your blanket-folds the

first unwelcome "Saddle up," and the muttered curses in reply. You

unwind yourself with groans. A white-frost fog blots out everything at

fifty yards, and a white sugary frost encrusts the grass. These first

hours are piercingly cold, for it is now mid-winter with us. A cup of

water left overnight is frozen solid. You dress by simply drawing your

revolver-strap over your shoulder, and flinging your blanket round you,

make your way to where a couple of black boys are bending over the

beginnings of a fire, and to which several other blanketed and shivering

figures are converging with the same thought--_coffee_--in every mind.

Then the great army column that has curled itself up like a caterpillar

for the night begins slowly to uncurl. On the march our huge convoy

stretches out in line, waggon following waggon along the rude track, and

extending to a length of nearly ten miles. At night, of course, it

collects (parks is the proper word) at some selected spot where the

ground is favourable, and where in the shape of a sluit, river, or

farm-dam there is water. On the slopes and hills around infantry pickets

are set, while the convoy and main camp are massed in the hollow

beneath. You must not think of our _camp_ in the English sense of the

word. We have no tents. The men sleep tightly rolled in greatcoat and

blanket, stretched on the bare earth, with saddles for pillows. If

anything takes you about the camp at night, you might think you were

walking among thick strewn corpses after a fearful carnage, so stiff and

still the frosted bodies lie on the ground.

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