Before going we collected all the ammunition and heaped it t

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WITH RIMINGTON

BY

L. MARCH PHILLIPPS

LATE CAPTAIN IN RIMINGTON'S GUIDES

SECOND IMPRESSION

LONDON

EDWARD ARNOLD

37 BEDFORD STREET, STRAND, W.C.

1902

_All rights reserved_

_DEDICATION_

_This book is dedicated to the memory of my friend Lieutenant Gustavus

Coulson, D.S.O., of the King's Own Scottish Borderers, who fell at

Lambrechtfontein on May 19, 1901._

_The Colonel in command writes that in that action Lieutenant Coulson

rallied some men and saved a gun from falling into the enemy's hands. He

lost his life in bringing off a wounded man from under the enemy's fire.

For this deed, the last of many deeds as brave, he was recommended for

the Victoria Cross._

_I knew him from his childhood, and on the march from Lindley to

Pretoria, and thence far south to Basutoland, we often rode together,

and talked of West Country sport and his Devonshire home and faces that

we both knew and loved there._

_A keen soldier, a cheery comrade, and a brave and kindly English

gentleman, he stands, it seems to me, the very type of those gallant

boys who in this South African war have died for England_.

PREFACE

These letters were written without any idea of publication, and it was

not until I had been home some months that suggestions from one or two

sources caused me to think of printing them. They appear much as they

were written, except that sometimes several letters dealing with the

same event have been thrown into one; and occasionally a few words have

been added to fill up gaps. In no case have I been wise after the event,

or put in prophecies which had already come off.

The parts in inverted commas are extracts from note-books which I used

to carry about in my pocket, and these passages I have left just as they

were jotted down, thinking that such snap-shots of passing scenes might

have an interest of their own.

It is unlucky from a descriptive point of view that the big actions and

fine effects should all have occurred during the first part of the war,

leaving the dulness and monotony for the later stages. During the last

six months of my service it was not my chance to see any important

action, though slight skirmishing was constant, and I find therefore

nothing in the later letters of a very exciting nature.

Such as they are, however, these letters contain a quite faithful

account of things that happened under my own eyes throughout the chief

stages of the western campaign. During the early part of the war many

things happened that were splendid to see and that it gave me great

pleasure to write about. During the later stages nothing particularly

splendid occurred, though the patience and endurance of our men were in

their way fine; but some things happened which were, as we say,

regrettable; and these things also are in their turn briefly described.

L.M.P.

15 BURY STREET,

ST. JAMES'S, S.W.

CONTENTS

LETTER PAGE

I. ORANGE RIVER CAMP 1

II. BELMONT 8

III. GRASPAN 15

IV. MODDER RIVER 22

V. THE 4.7 30

VI. MAGERSFONTEIN 34

VII. A RECONNAISSANCE 43

VIII. SCOUTING ON THE MODDER 49

IX. THE ADVANCE 59

X. RELIEF OF KIMBERLEY 63

XI. PAARDEBERG--THE BOMBARDMENT 73

XII. PAARDEBERG--THE SURRENDER 77

XIII. POPLAR GROVE 83

XIV. BLOEMFONTEIN 89

XV. MODDER REVISITED 97

XVI. JUSTIFICATION OF THE WAR 104

XVII. THE MARCH NORTH 112

XVIII. PRETORIA 126

XIX. THE MARCH SOUTH 139

XX. PRINSLOO'S SURRENDER--I 151

XXI. PRINSLOO'S SURRENDER--II 165

XXII. FIGHTING AND TREKKING 173

XXIII. WRITTEN FROM HOSPITAL 185

XXIV. FIGHTING AND FARM-BURNING 192

XXV. THE SITUATION 205

XXVI. PLAIN MISTER! 217

WITH RIMINGTON

LETTER I

ORANGE RIVER CAMP

ORANGE RIVER, _November_ 18, 1899.

The sun is just rising on Orange River Camp. Our tents are pitched on

the slopes of white sand, soft and deep, into which you sink at every

step, that stretch down to the river, dotted with a few scraggy

thorn-trees. There are men round me, sleeping about on the sand, rolled

in their dark brown blankets, like corpses laid out, covered from head

to foot, with the tight folds drawn over their feet and over their

heads. A few bestir themselves, roll, and stretch, and draw back the

covering from their sleepy, dusty faces. The first sunbeams begin to

creep along the ground and turn the cold sand yellow.

I am beginning this letter in the shade of a mimosa. The whole scene

reminds me very much of Egypt; and you might easily believe that you

were sitting on the banks of the Nile somewhere between the first and

second cataract. There are the same white, sandy banks, the same narrow

fringe of verdure on each side, the same bareness and treelessness of

the surrounding landscape, the same sun-scorched, stony hillocks; in

fact, the whole look of the place is almost identical. The river, slow

and muddy, is a smaller Nile; there only wants the long snout and heavy,

slug-like form of an old crocodile on the spit of sand in the middle to

make the likeness complete. And over all the big arch of the pure sky is

just the same too.

Our camp grows larger and rapidly accumulates, like water behind a dam,

as reinforcements muster for the attack. Methuen commands. We must be

about 8000 strong now, and are expecting almost hourly the order to

advance. Below us De Aar hums like a hive. From a deserted little

wayside junction, such as I knew it first, it has blossomed suddenly

into a huge depôt of all kinds of stores, provisions, fodder,

ammunition, and all sorts of material for an important campaign. Trains

keep steaming up with more supplies or trucks crowded with khaki-clad

soldiers, or guns, khaki painted too, and the huge artillery horses that

the Colonials admire so prodigiously. Life is at high pressure. Men talk

sharp and quick, and come to the point at once. Foreheads are knit and

lips set with attention. Every one you see walks fast, or, if riding,

canters. There is no noise or confusion, but all is strenuous, rapid

preparation.

Do you know Colonials? In my eight months of mining life at Johannesburg

I got to know them well. England has not got the type. The Western

States of America have it. They are men brought up free of caste and

free of class. When you come among Colonials, forget your birth and

breeding, your ancestral acres and big income, and all those things

which carry such weight in England. No forelocks are pulled for them

here; they count for nothing. Are you wide-awake, sharp, and shrewd,

plucky; can you lead? Then go up higher. Are you less of these things?

Then go down lower. But always among these men it is a position simply

of what you are in yourself. Man to man they judge you there as you

stand in your boots; nor is it very difficult, officer or trooper, or

whatever you are, to read in their blunt manners what their judgment is.

It is lucky for our corps that it has in its leader a man after its own

heart; a man who, though an Imperial officer, cares very little for

discipline or etiquette for their own sakes; who does not automatically

assert the authority of his office, but talks face to face with his men,

and asserts rather the authority of his own will and force of character.

They are much more ready to knock under to the man than they would be to

the mere officer. In his case they feel that the leader by office and

the leader by nature are united, and that is just what they want.

There are Colonials out here, as one has already come to see, of two

tolerably distinct types. These you may roughly distinguish as the

money-making Colonials and the working Colonials. The money-making lot

flourish to some extent in Kimberley, but most of all in Johannesburg.

You are soon able to recognise his points and identify him at a

distance. He is a little too neatly dressed and his watch-chain is a

little too much of a certainty. His manner is excessively glib and

fluent, yet he has a trick of furtively glancing round while he talks,

as if fearful of being overheard. For the same reason he speaks in low

tones. He must often be discussing indifferent topics, but he always

looks as if he were hatching a swindle. There is also a curious look of

waxworks about his over-washed hands.

This is the type that you would probably notice most. The Stock Exchange

of Johannesburg is their hatching-place and hot-bed; but from there they

overflow freely among the seaside towns, and are usually to be found in

the big hotels and the places you would be most likely to go to. Cape

Town at the present moment is flooded with them. But these are only the

mere froth of the South African Colonial breed. The real mass and body

of them consists (besides tradesmen, &c., of towns) of the miners of the

Rand, and, more intrinsically still, of the working men and the farmers

of English breed all over the Colony. It is from these that the fighting

men in this quarrel are drawn. It is from these that our corps, for

instance, has been by the Major individually and carefully recruited;

and I don't think you could wish for better material, or that a body of

keener, more loyal, and more efficient men could easily be brought

together.

Many of them are veterans, and have taken part in some of the numerous

African campaigns--Zulu, Basuto, Kaffir, Boer, or Matabele. They are

darkly sunburnt; lean and wiry in figure; tall often, but never fat (you

never see a fat Colonial), and they have the loose, careless seat on

horseback, as if they were perfectly at home there. As scouts they have

this advantage, that they not only know the country and the Dutch and

Kaffir languages, but that they are accustomed, in the rough and varied

colonial life, to looking after themselves and thinking for themselves,

and trusting no one else to do it for them. You can see this

self-reliance of theirs in their manner, in their gait and swagger and

the way they walk, in the easy lift and fall of the carbines on their

hips, the way they hold their heads and speak and look straight at you.

Your first march with such a band is an episode that impresses itself.

We were called up a few days ago at dead of night from De Aar to relieve

an outlying picket reported hard pressed. In great haste we saddled by

moonlight, and in a long line went winding away past the artillery lines

and the white, ghostly tents of the Yorkshires. The hills in the still,

sparkling moonlight looked as if chiselled out of iron, and the veldt

lay spread out all white and misty; but what one thought most of was the

presence of these dark-faced, slouch-hatted irregulars, sitting free and

easy in their saddles, with the light gleaming dully on revolver and

carbine barrel. A fine thing is your first ride with a troop of fighting

men.

Though called guides we are more properly scouts. Our strength is about

a hundred and fifty. A ledger is kept, in which, opposite each man's

name, is posted the part of the country familiar to him and through

which he is competent to act as guide. These men are often detached, and

most regiments seem to have one or two of ours with them. Sometimes a

party is detached altogether and acts with another column, and there

are always two or three with the staff. Besides acting as guides they

are interpreters, and handy men generally. All these little subtractions

reduce our main body to about a hundred, or a little less; and this main

body, under Rimington himself, acts as scouts and ordinary fighting men.

In fact, a true description of us would be "a corps of scouts supplying

guides to the army."

One word about the country and I have done. What strikes one about all

South African scenery, north and south, is the simplicity of it; so very

few forms are employed, and they are employed over and over again. The

constant recurrence of these few grave and simple features gives to the

country a singularly childish look. Egyptian art, with its mechanical

repetitions, unchanged and unvaried, has just the same character. Both

are intensely pre-Raphaelite.

South Africa's only idea of a hill, for instance, is the pyramid. There

are about three different kinds of pyramid, and these are reproduced

again and again, as if they were kept all ready made in a box like toys.

There is the simple kopje or cone, not to be distinguished at a little

distance from the constructed pyramids of Egypt, just as regular and

perfect. Then there is the truncated or flat-topped pyramid, used for

making ranges; and finally the hollow-sided one, a very pretty and

graceful variety, with curving sides drooping to the plain. These are

all. Of course there are a few mistakes. Some of the hills are rather

shakily turned out, and now and then a kopje has fallen away, as it

were, in the making. But still the central idea, the type they all try

for, is always perfectly clear. Moreover, they all are, or are meant to

be, of exactly the same height.

Most strange and weird is this extraordinary regularity. It seems to

mean something, to be arranged on some plan and for some humanly

intelligible purpose. In the evenings and early mornings especially,

when these oft-repeated shapes stand solemnly round the horizon, cut

hard and blue against the sky like the mighty pylons and propylons of

Egyptian temples, the architectural character of the scenery and its

definite meaning and purpose strike one most inevitably. So solemn and

sad it looks; the endless plains bare and vacant, and the groups of pure

cut battlements and towers. As if some colossals here inhabited at one

time and built these remains among which we now creep ignorant of their

true character. The scenery really needs such a race of Titans to match

it. In these spaces we little fellows are lost.

Well, farewell. My next will be after some sort of a contest. There has

been a touch or two; enough to show they are waiting for us. A corporal

of ours was shot through the arm yesterday and struggled back to camp on

another man's horse. The dark-soaked sleeve (war's colour for the first

time of seeing!) was the object, you may guess, of particular attention.

LETTER II

BELMONT

BELMONT SIDING.

It is to be called Belmont, I believe, from the little siding on the

railway near which it was fought. On the other hand it may be called

after the farm which it was fought on. Who decides these things? I have

never had dealings with a battle in its callow and unbaptized days

before, and it had never occurred to me that they did not come into the

world ready christened. Will Methuen decide the point, or the war

correspondents, or will they hold a cabinet council about it? Anyhow

Belmont will do for the present.

What happened was the simplest thing in the world. The Boers took up

their position in some kopjes in our line of march. The British

infantry, without bothering to wait till the hills had been shelled,

walked up and kicked the Boers out. There was no attempt at any plan or

scheme of action at all; no beastly strategy, or tactics, or outlandish

tricks of any sort; nothing but an honest, straightforward British march

up to a row of waiting rifles. Our loss was about 250 killed and

wounded. The Boer loss, though the extent of it is unknown, was probably

comparatively slight, as they got away before our infantry came fairly

into touch with them. The action is described as a victory, and so, in a

sense, it is; but it is not the sort of victory we should like to have

every day of the week. We carried the position, but they hit us hardest.

On the whole, probably both sides are fairly satisfied, which must be

rare in battles and is very gratifying.

Our mounted men, Guides, 9th Lancers, and a few Mounted Infantry,

marched out an hour before dawn. A line of kopjes stood up before us,

rising out of the bare plain like islands out of the sea, and as we

rounded the point and opened up the inner semicircle of hills, we could

distinguish the white waggon tops of the Boer laager in a deep niche in

the hillside, and see the men collecting and mounting and galloping

about. By-and-by, as we advanced, there came a singing noise, and

suddenly a great pillar of red dust shot up out of the ground a little

to our left. "That's a most extraordinary thing," thinks I, deeply

interested, "what land whale of these plains blows sand up in that

fashion?" Then I saw several heads turned in that direction, and heard

some one say something about a shell, and finally I succeeded in

grasping, not without a thrill, the meaning of the phenomenon.

The infantry attack came off on the opposite side of the ridge from

where we were, and we could see nothing of it. But we heard. As we drew

alongside of the hills, suddenly there broke out a low, quickly uttered

sound; dull reports so rapid as to make a rippling noise. The day was

beautifully fine, still, and hot. There was no smoke or movement of any

kind along the rocky hill crest, and yet the whole place was throbbing

with Mausers. This was the first time that any of us had listened to

modern rifle fire. It was delivered at our infantry, who on that side

were closing with their enemy.

The fire did not last long, though in the short time it did terrible

damage, and men of the Northumberlands and Grenadiers and Coldstreams

were dropping fast as they clambered up the rocky hillside. But that

brief burst of firing was the battle of Belmont. In that little space of

time the position had been lost and won, and we had paid our price for

it. During the march across the flat, as I have been told since, our

loss was comparatively light; but when the climbing of the hill began,

numbers of Boers who had been waiting ready poured in their fire. All

along the ridge, from behind every rock and stone, the smokeless Mausers

cracked (it was then the fire rose to that rippling noise we were

listening to on the other side of the range), and the sleet of bullets,

slanting down the hill, swept our fellows down by scores. But there was

never any faltering. They had been told to take the hill. Two hundred

and fifty stopped on the way through no fault of theirs. The rest went

on and took it. That's the way our British infantry put a job through.

Soon, on our side, scattered bands of the enemy began to emerge from the

kopjes and gallop north, whilst right up at the top of the valley their

long convoy of waggons came into view, trekking away as hard as they

could go, partly obscured by clouds of dust. We made some attempts to

stop them, but our numbers were too few. Though defeated, they were not

in any way demoralised, and the cool way in which they turned to meet

us showed that they knew they were safe from the infantry, and did not

fear our very weak cavalry. We did not venture to press the matter

beyond long shots. Had we done so, it was evident we should have been

cut up.

Various little incidents occurred. This one amused me at the moment. We

had captured a herd of cattle from some niggers who had been sent by the

Boers to drive them in, and I was conveying them to the rear. From a

group of staff officers a boy came across the veldt to me, and presently

I heard, as I was "shooing" on my bullocks, a very dejected voice

exclaim, "How confoundedly disappointing." I looked round and saw a lad

gazing ruefully at me, with a new revolver tied to a bright yellow

lanyard ready in his hand. "I thought you were a Boer," he said, "and I

was going to shoot you. I've _got leave_ to shoot you," he added, as

though he were in two minds about doing the job anyway. I looked at him

for a long while in silence, there seemed nothing to say, and then,

still ruefully, he rode away. This, you will understand, was right up

our end of the valley, and I was driving cattle on to our ground, only I

had a soft hat on.

We have plenty of youngsters like this; brave, no doubt, but thoughtless

and quite careless about the dangerous qualities of the men they have to

meet. "They'll live and learn," people say. They'll learn if they live,

would perhaps be nearer the mark. The Boers, on the other hand, such as

I have seen yet, are decidedly awkward-looking customers, crafty, but

in deadly earnest, versed in veldt wars and knowing the country to an

anthill. Looking from one to the other, I fear there are many mothers in

England who'll go crying for their boys this campaign.

Later a troop of us penetrated into the deep recess among the hills

where they had their laager. It seemed evident, from the number of

waggons and the amount of clothing and stores left behind and littered

in every direction, that the Boers had not expected to be shifted nearly

so suddenly as they were. There were heaps of provisions, quantities of

coffee tied up in small bags, sugar, rice, biltong, _i.e._ dried strips

of flesh, a sort of bread biscuit much used by them on the march, and

made at the farms, and other things. All were done up in small

quantities in such a way that individual men could carry it. There were

waggons loaded, or half loaded, with old chests and boxes, and many

heaped about the ground. Most contained clothes, and the place was

strewn in all directions with blankets, greatcoats, and garments of all

sorts, colours, and sizes. I annexed a very excellent black mackintosh,

quite new and splendidly lined with red; a very martial and imposing

garment.

Diligent search was made for any paper or memoranda, which might show

the plans or strength of the enemy, but all we found were the

love-letters of the young Boers, of which there were vast numbers,

extremely amusing. It never seems to have occurred to any of the writers

that they could be going to get the worst of it. They seem to put the

responsibility for the management of the whole campaign into the hands

of the Deity. They are religious but practical. "God will protect us.

Here is a pound of coffee," is about what they all come to. It is the

fashion to scoff at the calm way in which our enemies have appropriated

the services of the Almighty, but all the same it shows a dangerous

temper. People who believe they have formed this alliance have always

been difficult to beat. You remember Macaulay's Puritan, with his "Bible

in one hand and a two-edged sword in the other." The sword has given

place to a Mauser now, but I am not sure that we are likely to benefit

much by the change. As to the Bible, it is still very much in evidence.

Not a single kit but contained one; usually the family one in old brown

leather. Now it is an historical fact that Bible-reading adversaries are

very awkward customers to tackle, and remembering that, I dislike these

Bibles.

More practically important than love-letters and Bibles, we found also a

lot of abandoned ammunition, shell and Mauser. Our ambulance parties

were at work in the hills. Several Boers, as they fled, had been shot

down near the laager. We found one, shot through the thigh, groaning

very much, and carried him into the shade of a waggon, and did what we

could for him. Meantime some of us had gathered bits of boxes and wood,

and made a fire and boiled water. Tea-cups, coffee, sugar, and biscuits

were found, and we made a splendid feast in the midst of the desolation.

Horrid, you will say, to think of food among the dead and wounded. And

yet that coffee certainly was very good. Somehow I believe the Boers

understand roasting it better than we do.

Before going we collected all the ammunition and heaped it together and

made a pile of wood round it which we set ablaze and then drew out into

the plain and reined in and looked back. Never shall I forget the view.

The hills, those hills the English infantry had carried so splendidly,

were between us and the now setting sun, and though so close were almost

black with clean-hacked edges against the sunset side of the sky. To

eastward the endless grassy sea went whitening to the horizon, crossed

in the distance with the horizontal lines of rich brown and yellow and

pure blue, which at sunrise and sunset give such marvellous colouring to

the veldt. The air here is exactly like the desert air, very

exhilarating to breathe and giving to everything it touches that

wonderful clearness and refinement which people who have been brought up

in a damp climate and among smudged outlines so often mistake for

hardness. Our great ammunition fire in the hollow of the hill burned

merrily, and by-and-by a furious splutter of Mauser cartridges began,

with every now and then the louder report of shells and great smoke

balls hanging in the air. But sheer above all, above yellow veldt and

ruined Boer laager, rose the hill, the position we had carried, grim and

rigid against the sunset and all black. And, with the sudden sense of

_seeing_ that comes to one now and then, I stared at it for a while and

said out loud "Belmont!" And in that aspect it remains photographed in

my memory.

LETTER III

GRASPAN

_November_ 26, 1899.

We marched out from our Orange River Camp on November 22nd, and fought

at Belmont on the 23rd. On the 24th we marched north again, and on the

25th (yesterday) fought another action at Graspan, or, as some call it,

Enslin--there is still the difficulty about names. March a day and fight

a day seems the rule so far.

At home, when you are criticising these actions of Methuen, you must

always bear two facts in mind. First, we are bound to keep our line of

communication, that is, the railway, open, and hold it as we advance. We

can bring Kimberley no relief unless we can open and guard the railway,

and so enable supplies to be poured into the town. Second, we are not

strong enough, and above all not mobile enough, while holding the

railway to attempt a wide flanking movement which might threaten the

Boer retreat, or enable us to shell and attack from two sides at once.

If we had anything like a decent force of mounted men I suppose we could

do it, but with our handful to separate it from the main body would be

to get it cut off. "Want of frigates" was to be found on Nelson's heart,

as he said on some occasion, and I am sure by this time that "want of

cavalry" must be written on poor Methuen's. So you must figure to

yourself a small army, an army almost all infantry, and an army tied to

the railway on this march; and if we bring off no brilliant strategy,

but simply plod on and take hard knocks, well, what else, I ask, under

the circumstances can we do?

Yesterday in the early morning we found ourselves emerging from some

stony hills with a great plain before us about four miles wide, I should

think, with an ugly-looking range of hills bounding it on the north and

the railway running north and south on our left. This we had every

reason to believe was the enemy's position; toll-gate No. 2 on the

Kimberley road. We went on to reconnoitre. Rimington led us straight

towards the hills in open order, and when we were somewhere about rifle

range from them, we right turned and galloped in line along their front;

but no gun or rifle spoke. When we reached the eastern point of the

range, we turned it and rode on with the hills on our left; and now,

with the Lancers a little farther out on our right, we offered too good

a shot for the enemy to resist. They opened on us with, as I thought

three, but others think two, guns, and put in some quick and

well-directed shots, of which the first one or two fell short and the

rest went screaming over our heads and fell among the Lancers.

One point of difference, I notice, so far as a short experience goes,

between cavalry and infantry, which is all in favour of the cavalry; and

that is, that when they get into fire the infantry go calmly on, while

the much wiser cavalry generally run away. We retired from these guns,

but when opposite the corner of the range the Lancers got on to some

bad ground in front of us, and we had to halt a minute, which gave the

Boer Long Tom an excellent chance of a few parting words with us. The

first shell came along, making the mad noise they do, whooping and

screaming to itself, and plunged into the ground with a loud snort only

about thirty or forty yards off. The gunner, having got his range, was

not long in sending down another, and when the white curl of smoke

appeared lying again on the hillside, one guessed that the individual

now on his way would prove a warmish customer. It burst with a most

almighty crack, and I involuntarily bent down my head over my horse's

neck. "Right over your head," shouted the next man, in answer to my

question as to where it burst.

If you are at all interested in "projectiles," you may care to hear that

shrapnel is most effective when it bursts over, but a little short of,

the object aimed at; the bullets, released by the bursting charge,

continuing the line of flight of the shell, which is a downward slant.

There is a rather anxious interval, of about ten or fifteen seconds

generally after you see the smoke of the gun, and before anything else

happens. Then comes the hollow boom of the report, and almost

immediately afterwards the noise of the shell, growing rapidly from a

whimper to a loud scream, with a sudden note of recognition at the end,

as if it had caught sight of and were pouncing on you. It is a curious

fact, however, that, in spite of the noise they make, you cannot in the

least distinguish in which direction they are coming. You find yourself

looking vaguely round, wondering where this yelling devil is going to

ground, but till you see the great spurt of earth you have no idea where

it will be. We came back across the plain, having more or less located

the position and the guns. Rimington with one squadron got into a tight

place among some kopjes on our right. The rifle fire was very hot, and

at close range. The Major took up his orderly, whose horse was shot, on

his own pony, and brought him off. For a moment the squadron came under

cover of a hill, but they had to run the gauntlet of the Boer fire to

get away. Rimington laughingly asked for a start as his pony was

carrying double, and rode first out into the storm of bullets. Several

men and horses were hit, but no men killed, and they were lucky in

getting off as cheap as they did. We then drew back to a cattle kraal on

the slope overlooking the plain, from which we watched the development

of the infantry attack.

I usually carry a note-book and pencil in my pocket, partly to jot down

any information one may pick up at farms from Kaffirs, &c., and partly

to make notes in of the things I see. Here is a note from the kraal.

"10 A.M.--There is a wide plain in front of me, four miles across, flat

as the sea, and all along the farther side a line of kopjes and hills

rising like reefs and detached islands out of it. You might think the

plain was empty at first glance, but, if you look hard, you will see it

crawling with little khaki-clad figures, dotted all over it; not packed

anywhere, but sprinkled over the whole surface. They are steadily but

very leisurely converging on the largest end hill of the opposite range.

Meantime, from three or four spots along the sides of those hills, locks

and puffs of white smoke float out, followed at long intervals by deep,

sonorous reports; and if you look to the left a bit, where our naval

guns are at work, you will see the Boer shells bursting close to or over

them. The artillery duet goes on between the two, while still the

infantry, unmolested as yet, crawls and crawls towards those hills."

This is our first sight of an infantry attack, and it doesn't impress me

at first at all. Its cold-bloodedness, the absence of all excitement,

make it so different from one's usual notions of a battle. It is really

difficult to believe that those little, sauntering figures are

"delivering an attack." They don't look a bit as if they were going to

fight. The fact is, they have a long distance to cover before reaching

the hills, and must go fairly slow. Accordingly, you see them strolling

leisurely along as if nothing particular were happening; while the hills

themselves, except for the occasional puffs of smoke, look; quite bare

and empty; ridges of stone and rock, interspersed with grass tussocks,

heaped up against the hot, blue sky.

But now, as they advance farther across the plain, the muffled,

significant sound of the Mauser fire begins. The front of the attack is

already so far across that it is impossible to see how they are faring

from here; but it is evident that our shell fire, heavy though it has

been, for all our guns have been in action some time now, has not turned

the Boers out of their position. The big chunks of rock are an

excellent defence against shrapnel, and behind them they lie, or down in

the hollow of the hills, as we saw them earlier in the day, to be called

up when the attack approached; and now, gathering along the crest, their

fire quickens gradually from single shots to a roar. But it has no

effect on that fatal sauntering! Of the men who leave this side nigh on

two hundred will drop before they reach the other, but still, neither

hurrying nor pausing, on they quietly stroll, giving one, in their

uniform motion over that wide plain, a sense as of the force and

implacability of some tidal movement. And, as you watch, the

significance of it all grows on you, and you see that it is just its

very cold-bloodedness and the absence of any dash and fury that makes

the modern infantry attack such a supreme test of courage.

Of the details of the attack, when it came to the last charge, we could

see nothing. The Naval Brigade, who had the hardest part of the position

to take, lost terribly, but did the job in a way that every one says was

perfectly splendid. It is said, however, that they made the mistake, in

the scaling of the hill, of closing together, and so offering a more

compact mass to the enemy's fire. We came on behind the infantry with

our friends the Lancers, and passed through a gap in the range and on

across some open ground and through a few more kopjes as fast as we

could go. Then we came in sight of the enemy, and the same thing

happened as at Belmont. A lot of horsemen, enough to have eaten us up,

that were hanging about the rear of the Boer column, came wheeling out

against us, and as we continued to approach, opened fire. Luckily there

was good cover for our ponies behind some hillocks, and, leaving them

there, we crawled out among the rocks and blazed at the Boers. But this

was all we could do. We daren't attack. The only hope was guns, and it

was a long and inexplicable time before any guns came up. By that time

the Boer column was almost across the plain, winding its way in among

the kopjes on the farther side, but the 15-pounders made some very

pretty practice at the rear-guard, and considerably hastened their

movements. The Boer retreat seems to have been conducted with much

coolness and method. They ceased firing their big guns while the attack

was still a good way distant, and limbered up and sent them on, the

riflemen remaining till the attack was close upon them, and firing their

last shots right in our infantry's faces, then rushing down to their

horses and mounting and galloping off. No doubt, they exposed themselves

a bit in doing this, but pumped and excited men can't be expected to

shoot very straight, and I'm afraid their losses were light compared to

ours. They have now retired, we presume, to the next range of kopjes,

there to smoke their pipes and read their Bibles and await our coming. I

suppose we shall be along to-morrow or next day.

LETTER IV

MODDER RIVER

MODDER RIVER CAMP,

_December 1_, 1899.

We had a great old fight here two days ago, and suffered another

crushing victory; but though I saw it all, I daresay you know more about

the whole thing by this time than I do.

This is Modder River, deep and still, just beneath my feet. It is a

lovely, cloudless morning, and going to be a very hot day. I am writing

my letter on the banks of the river in the shade of green trees and

shrubs, with birds singing and twittering, and building their nests

round me; it is spring-time here, you know, or early summer. Here and

there, sauntering or sitting, are groups of our khaki soldiers enjoying

mightily a good rest after the hard work, marching and fighting, of the

last ten days. From the river-bed come voices calling and talking,

sounds of laughing, and now and then a plunge. Heads bob about and

splash in the mud-coloured water, and white figures run down the bank

and stand a moment, poised for a plunge. Three stiff fights in seven

days doesn't seem to have taken much of the spring out of them.

You would scarcely think it was the scene of a battle, and yet there are

a few signs. If you look along the trees and bushes, you see here and

there a bough splintered or a whole trunk shattered, as though it had

been struck by lightning. A little lower down the river there is a shed

of corrugated iron, which looks as if some one had been trying to turn

it into a pepper-pot by punching it all over with small holes. They run

a score to the square foot, and are a mark of attention on the part of

our guards, who, lying down over yonder in the plain, could plainly

distinguish the light-coloured building and made a target of it. In many

places the ground is ploughed up in a curious way, and all about in the

dust lie oblong cylinders of metal, steel tubes with a brass band round

one end. These would puzzle you. They are empty shell cases. The tops,

as you see, have been blown off, which is done by the bursting charge

timed by a fuse to ignite at a certain range, _i.e._, above and a little

short of the object aimed at. The explosion of the bursting charge by

the recoil, checks for an instant the flight of the shell, and this

instant's check has the effect of releasing the bullets with which the

case is filled. These fly forward with the original motion and impetus

of the shell itself, spreading as they go. Horizontal fire is easy to

find cover against, but these discharges from on high are much more

difficult to evade. For instance, ant-hills are excellent cover against

rifles, but none at all against these shells. It is shrapnel, as this

kind of shell is called, that does the most mischief. The round bullets

(200 to a caseful) lie scattered about in the dust, and mixed with them

are very different little slender silvery missiles, quite pretty and

delicate, like jewellers' ornaments. These are Lee-Metford bullets. You

could pick up a pocketful in a short time.

The action itself was mainly an infantry one. Here are one or two

jottings taken that day:--

"_November 26th_, 7.30 A.M.--We left camp, six miles south of Modder

River, a little before daylight and marched north. The country is like

what one imagines a North American prairie to be, a sea of whitish,

coarse grass, with here and there a low clump of bushes (behind one of

which we are halted as I write this). One can see a vast distance over

the surface. Along the north horizon there is a ripple of small hills

and kopjes, looking blue, with the white grass-land running up to them.

It is a comparatively cool morning with a few light clouds in the sky

and a pleasant breeze. On our left is the railway, and all along on our

right, extending far in front and far behind, advances the army."

"We incline to the left near to the railway. The horrid, little,

grey-bluish, armoured train crawls in front. It is dreadfully excited

always in presence of the enemy, darting forward and then running back

like a scorpion when you tease it with your stick-end. One can see by

its agitation this morning that the enemy are not far off. Behind it

comes a train of open trucks with the famous Naval Brigade, with their

guns, search-light, &c. The river flows somewhere across the landscape

yonder in the plains. One cannot see it, but a few belts of bushes

indicate its course. It is just that awkward moment before one gets

touch of the enemy. They, no doubt, can see us (I wonder how they like

the look of us), but we cannot see them. They must be somewhere along

the river among those bushes, and probably in trenches. But where does

their main strength lie? where are their guns? There goes fire, away on

the right (probably at the Lancers, who are the right flankers); the

dull short discharge of Mausers. The train moves forward a hundred

yards, but as yet the men keep their places, clustered in the trucks.

Two officers standing on a carriage roof watch with a telescope the

distant fire. It has now ceased. A flag-wagger flutters his flag in

eager question. Nothing moves on the plain save here and there a lonely

prowling horseman, cantering on, or dismounted and peering through his

glass. It was three minutes to eight when the first shot was fired.

'This will be a bit more history for the kiddies to learn,' yawns the

next man to me, leaning idly over his pony."

"It is a half-hour later as the great guns begin their booming; that

solemn, deep-toned sound like the striking of a great cathedral clock.

We moved forward to the top of a rise overlooking the distant river and

village."

"A dead level stretches below us to the river, marked by some bush tufts

and the few roofs of Modder River village. The Naval Brigade have got

their four guns in the plain just near the foot of our hill. They are

hard at work now bombarding the enemy's big gun by the river. This,

after a while, is almost silenced. Each time it speaks again the deadly

naval guns are on to it. At last, when it does fire, it shows by its

erratic aim that its best gunners are out of action."

"9.30.--The naval guns draw slowly closer to the river. Every shell

bursts along the opposite bank where the enemy are. More to the right

and nearer the river our field-batteries are pounding away as hard as

they can load and fire. All the time the subdued rumble of Maxims and

rifles goes on, like a rumble of cart-wheels over a stony road. Now it

increases to one continuous roar, now slackens till the reports

separate. Now, after one and a half hours, the fight seems to be

concentrating towards the village opposite. A haze of smoke hangs over

the place. The guns thunder. The enemy's Maxim-Nordenfelt goes

rat-tat-tat a dozen times with immense rapidity. 'Come in,' says a Tommy

of the Grenadiers who has come to our hill for orders; and indeed it

sounds exactly like some one knocking at a street door. Now the

under-current of rifle fire becomes horrible in its rapidity. Can

anything in that hell down there be left alive? Suddenly their plucky

big gun opens again and sends several well-directed shells among our

batteries. The naval guns turn their attention to it immediately. You

can see the little, quick glints of fire low along the ground at each

discharge, and then the bursting shell just over the big gun on the

river-bank."

"10 A.M.--Both sides are sticking to the business desperately. The

rattle of rifle-fire is one low roar. The air shudders and vibrates

under it. Now the naval guns draw towards the river again; so do the

rest of our batteries. Things can't stand at this tension. The big gun

speaks again, but wildly; its shell bursts far out on the plain."

"10.30.--The aspect of the place is now awful. The breeze has died a

little and the smoke hangs more. It is enveloped in a haze of yellow and

blue vapour, partly from bursting shell and partly firing guns. Those

volumes of smoke, with gleams of fire every now and then, make it look

like some busy manufacturing town, and the blows and throbs with which

the place resounds convey the same idea."

"11 A.M.--The fight is dogged as ever but slower. There are cessations

of firing altogether, and it is comparatively slow when continued. The

stubbornness of the enemies' resistance to our attack and to the fearful

shelling they have had is calling forth expressions of astonishment and

admiration from the onlooking officers on the hill."

"As the circle narrowed and our attack concentrated on the village and

bridge, we all thought that the end was coming, and, on a lull of the

firing about 11.30 the Major even exclaimed, 'There, I think that's the

end, and I can only say thank God for it.' But he was wrong. He had

scarcely said it when that indomitable heavy gun of theirs, re-supplied

with gunners, began again; again the Naval guns, on a tested range,

crack their shrapnel right in its face; the batteries all open and soon

the whole orchestra is thundering again. That dreadful muttering, the

'rub-a-dub, a-dub-a-dub, a-dub-a-dub' (say it as fast as you can) of the

rifles keeps on; through all the noise of fire, the sharp, quick bark of

the Boer Maxim-Nordenfelt sounds at intervals and the mingled smoke and

dust lies in a haze along the river."

It was, all through, almost entirely an infantry action, but about the

middle of the day we were sent down to the river on the Boer right, as

parties of the enemy were thought to be breaking away in that direction.

And here, I am sorry to say, poor Parker who had served in the

Greek-Turkish war, and used to beguile our long night marches with

stories of the Thessalian hills and the courage of the Turks, was hit,

it is feared mortally. The fight itself continued with intermissions all

day, and even in the evening, though parts of the Boer position had been

captured and many of them had fled, there were some who still made good

their defence, holding out in places of vantage with the greatest

obstinacy. These took advantage of the night to escape, and it was not

till next morning that we had the place in our possession. The Boers

themselves, as we are told by people here, thought the position

impregnable. Certainly it was very strong. The river has cut a channel

or groove thirty feet deep in the ground; the edges, sharp and distinct,

so that men can lie on the slant and look out across the plain. A big

loop in the river is subtended by a line of trenches and rifle-pits

hastily dug (they only decided twenty-four hours before the attack to

defend the position; this by Cronjé's advice, who had just come south

from Mafeking, the others were for retiring to the next range of hills),

from which the whole advance of our infantry across the level is

commanded. "We," as the soldiers explained to me, "could see nothing in

our front but a lot of little heads popping up to fire and then popping

down again." These shelters, a long line of them, are littered thick

with empty cartridge cases, hundreds in each; one thinks involuntarily

of grouse-driving. Bodies, still unburied, lay about when I was there.

Such odours! such sights! The unimaginable things that the force of shot

and shell can do to poor, soft, human flesh. I saw soldiers who had

helped to do the work turn from those trenches shaking.

LETTER V

THE FOUR POINT SEVEN

MODDER RIVER CAMP,

_December_ 1899.

A few days ago we welcomed a distinguished stranger here in the shape of

a long 4.7 naval gun. They set him up in the road just outside the

station, with his flat-hatted sailors in zealous attendance, where he

held a day-long levée. The gun is a remarkable object among the rest of

our artillery. Its barrel, immensely long but very slender, has a

well-bred, aristocratic look compared with the thick noses of our

field-guns. It drives its forty-five pound shell about seven miles, and

shoots, I am told, with perfect accuracy. It is an enlarged edition of

the beautiful little twelve-pounders which we have hitherto been using,

and which exceed the range of our fifteen-pounder field-guns by about a

half. Why should naval guns be so vastly superior to land ones?

I interviewed the sailors on the accomplishments of the new-comer, and

on the effects especially of lyddite, about which we hear so much. One

must allow for a little friendly exaggeration, but if the mixture of

truth is in any decent proportion, I should say that spades to bury dead

Boers with are all the weapons that the rest of us will require in

future. The gun uses shrapnel as well, but relies for its main effects

on lyddite. As for this horrible contrivance, all I can say is that the

Geneva Conference ought to interdict it. The effects of the explosion of

a lyddite shell are as follows:--Any one within 50 yards is obliterated,

blown clean away. From 50 to 100 yards they are killed by the force of

the concussion of the air. From 100 to 150 yards they are killed by the

fumes or poisonous gases which the shell ex-hales. From 150 to 200 they

are not killed, but knocked senseless, and their skin is turned to a

brilliant green colour. From 200 to 250 they are so dazed and stupefied

as to be incapable of action, and, generally speaking, after that any

one in the district or neighbourhood of the shock is "never the same man

again." This is no mere rumour, for I have it direct from the naval

gunners themselves.

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