naval stores, received for the refitment of the _Bounty_; dropped down to
Sheerness, saluted Admiral Dalrymple, payed the same compliments to Sir
Richard King, in passing the Downs, arrived at Portsmouth, and found
there Lord Howe with the Union Flag at the main, and the proudest navy
that ever graced the British seas under his command.
Here the officers and men received six months pay in advance, and after
receiving their final orders, got the time-keeper on board, weighed
anchor, and proceeded to sea.
As the white cliffs of Albion receded from our view alternate hopes and
fears took possession of our minds, wafting the last kind adieu to our
native soil.
We pursued our voyage with a favourable breeze; but _Pandora_ now seemed
inclined to shed her baneful influence among us, and a malignant fever
threatened much havoc, as in a few days thirty-five men were confined to
their beds, and unfortunately Mr. Innes, the Surgeon's only mate, was
among the first taken ill; what rendered our situation still more
distressing, was the crowded state of the ship being filled to the
hatchways with stores and provisions, for, like weevils, we had to eat a
hole in our bread, before we had a place to lay down in; every officer's
cabin, the Captain's not excepted, being filled with provisions and
stores. Our sufferings were much encreased, for want of room to
accommodate our sick, notwithstanding every effort of the Captain that
humanity could suggest.
In this sickly lumbered state, near the latitude of Madeira, we observed
a sail bearing down upon us: from her appearance and manoeuvres, we had
every reason to believe she was a ship of war; and a rumour of a Spanish
war prevailing when we left England, rendered it necessary to clear ship
for action; as soon as our guns were run out, and all hands at quarters,
got along side of her, when she proved His Majesty's Ship, _Shark_, sent
out with orders of recall to Admiral Cornish, who had sailed for the West
Indies a few days before we left Spithead.
This little disaster deranged us much, having at the same time bad
weather, attended with heavy thunder squals. The Peek of Teneriff now
began to shew his venerable crest, towering above the clouds; and in two
days more came to an anchor in the road of Santa Cruz, but did not
salute, as the Commandant had not authority to return it.
Immediately on our arrival we were boarded by the Port-master, by whom we
learnt they had been in much apprehension of a disagreeable visit from
the English, but were happy to hear that matters were amicably settled
between the Courts of Madrid and St. James's.
With respect to site nothing can be more beautifully picturesque than the
town of Santa Cruz. It stands in the centre of a spacious bay, on a
gentle acclivity surrounded with retiring hills, and the noble promontory
of the Peek rising majestically behind it, dignifies the scene beyond
description, being continually diversified with every vicissitude of the
surrounding atmosphere, emerging and retiring thro' the fleecy clouds,
from the bottom of the mountain to its summit.
All the circumjacent hills on the margin of the beach are tufted with
little forts, and barbett batteries, forming an Esplanade round the bay,
affords a most agreeable landscape. The houses being all painted white,
pretty regularly built, and standing on a rising ground, raises one
street above another, and heightens the scene from the water; to which
the Governor's garden contributes much to beautify the town.
In the centre of the principal square, is a well built fountain,
continually playing, which, in a warm climate, has a desirable cooling
effect. There is but one church, which contains a few indifferent
paintings.
The inhabitants are civil, but reserved, and the inquisition being on the
island, spreads a gloomy distrust on the countenance of the people.
The troops are miserably cloathed, and poverty and superstition lord it
wide. The wines of this place, from a late improvement in the vines, are
equal to the second kind of Madeira, and I cannot pass over this subject
without making honourable mention of the candour of Mr. Rooney our wine
merchant.
Here we completed our water from an acqueduct admirably constructed for
the convenience of the shipping, and after receiving on board lemons,
oranges, pomegranates, and bananas, with every variety of fruits and
other refreshments with which this island most plentifully abounds,
proceeded again on our voyage.
The fever that prevailed on our leaving England became now pretty
general, and almost every man had it in turn, and as we approached the
line many of the convalescents had a relapse, but the Lords of the
Admirality, previous to our sailing, had supplied us with such unbounded
liberality in every thing necessary for the preservation of the seamens'
health, that I may venture to say many lives were saved from their
bounty, and I should be wanting in my duty to their Lordships, as well as
the community, was I to pass over in silence the uncommon good effects we
experienced from supplying the sick and convalescent with tea and sugar;
this being the first time it has ever been introduced into his Majesty's
service; but it is an article in life that has crept into such universal
use, in all orders of society, that it needs no comment of mine to
recommend it. It may, however, be easily conceived that it will be sought
with more avidity by those whose aliment consists chiefly in animal food,
and that always salt, and often of the worst kind. Their bread too is
generally mixed with oatmeal, and of a hot drying nature. Scarcity of
water is a calamity to which seafaring people are always subject; and it
is an established fact, that a pint of tea will satiate thirst more than
a quart of water. But when sickness takes place, a loathing of all animal
food follows; then tea becomes their sole existence, and that which can
be conveyed to them as natural food will be taken with pleasure, when
any slip slop, given as drink, will be rejected with disgust. Suffice it
to say, that Quarter-masters, and real good seamen have ever been
observed to be regular in cooking their little pot of tea or coffee, and
in America seamen going long voyages, always make it an article in their
agreement to be supplied with tea and sugar.
The air now becoming intolerably hot, and to evacuate the foul air from
below where the people slept, had recourse to Mr. White's new ventilator,
but found little benefit from it; not from any fault in the machine, but
from the crowded state of the ship, it was impossible to throw a current
of air into those places where it was most wanted, but by the addition of
a flexible leather tube, like a water engine, it might be rendered of the
utmost importance to the service, as in tenders' press-holds, and in
line-of-battle ships at sea, when the lower deck ports cannot be opened;
where often the jail fever, and all the calamities that attend human
nature in crowded situations, are engendered, that might be entirely
obviated by Mr. White's ingenious machine. I should beg to recommend
wheels to be substituted for legs to it, for its easier conveyance from
one part of the ship to the other, and that he would sacrifice beauty to
strength, as a slight mahogany jim crack is not well calculated to the
severity of heat we are exposed to, in climates where it is most wanted.
There were now many water spouts about the ship, at which we fired
several guns: the thermometer fluctuated between seventy-nine and eighty,
and without any thing worthy of remark, in the common occurrence of
things at sea, on the twenty-eight of December saw the land of the
Brazils, and in two days saluted the fort at Rio Janiero with fifteen
guns, which was immediately returned.
On our coming to anchor, an officer came to acquaint the Captain, that a
party of soldiers should be sent on board of us, agreeable to their
custom, which was most peremptorily denied as inadmissable with the
dignity of the British flag, nor would Captain Edwards go on shore to pay
his respects to the Vice Roy, till that etiquete was settled, that his
boat should not be boarded.
After the usual compliments were paid the Vice Roy, his suit of carriages
were ordered to attend the British officers, and Monsieur le Font, the
Surgeon-General, who spoke English with ease and fluency, shewed us every
mark of politeness and attention on the occasion, in carrying us through
the principal streets, then visited the public gardens, built by the late
Vice Roy, and laid out with much taste and expence. All the extremity of
the garden is a fine terrace which commands a view of the water, and is
frequented by people of fashion, as their Grand Mall: at each end of the
terrace there is an octagonal built room, superbly furnished, where
merendas[96-1] are sometimes given. On the pannels are painted the
various productions and commerce of South America, representing the
diamond fishery, the process of the indigo trade. The rice grounds and
harvest, sugar plantation, South Sea whale fishery, &c. these were
interspersed with views of the country, and the quadrupedes that inhabit
those parts. The ceilings contained all the variety, the one of the fish,
the other of the fowl of that continent. The copartments of the ceiling
of the one room was enriched in shell work, with all the variegated
shells of that country, and in the copartments are delineated all the
variety of fish that the coast of South America produces. The other
copartment is enriched with feathers and so inimitably blended as to
produce the happiest effect. In this ceiling is painted all the birds
and fowls of the country, in all their splendid elegance of plumage. The
sofas and furniture are rich in the extreme: and in this elegant recess,
an idle traveller may have an agreeable lounge, and at one view
comprehend the whole natural history of this vast continent. In the
centre of the terrace there is a Jet d'eau, in form of a large palm-tree,
made of copper, which at pleasure may be made to spout water from the
extremity of all the leaves. This tree stands on a well disposed grotto,
which rises from the gravel walk below to the level of the terrace, and
terminates the view of the principal walk. Near the foot of the grotto
two large aligators, made of copper, are continually discharging water
into a handsome bason of white marble, filled with gold and silver
fishes.
There are fine orangeries, and lofty covered arbours in different parts
of the garden, capable of containing a thousand people. Here the cyprian
nymphs hold their nocturnal revels; but intrigue is attended with great
danger, as the stilletto is in general use, and assassination frequent,
the men being of a jealous sanguinary turn, and the women fond of
gallantry, who never appear in public unveiled. When Bougainville, the
French circumnavigator called here, his chaplain was assassinated in an
affray of that kind; but since that accident, orders were given that a
commissioned officer should attend all foreign officers, and a soldier
the privates; and all strangers, on landing, are conducted to the main
guard for their escort. This answers a double purpose, as they are much
afraid of strangers smuggling or carrying money out of the country, under
the mask of personal protection, every motion is watched and scrutinized,
nor can you purchase any thing of a merchant, till he has settled with
the officer of the police how much he shall exact for his goods; so you
have always the satisfaction of being rob'd as the act directs.
The trade of this country is much cramped by the improper policy of the
mother country; for although it abounds with every thing that the earth
produces, wealth is far from being diffusive, and a spirit for revolt
seems to prevail amongst them; but they were rather premature in
business, a conspiracy being detected whilst we were there, many of the
first people in the country thrown into dungeons, a strong guard put over
them, and all intercourse denied them. But in order to check that spirit
of rebellion among the colonists, a regiment of black slaves is now
embodied, who will be very ready to bear arms against their oppressive
masters; but should a revolution in South America take place, which
sooner or later must eventually happen, some of our South Sea discoveries
would then prove an advantageous situation for a little British colony.
All public works are done here by slaves in chains, who perform a kind of
plaintive melancholy dirge in recitative, to sooth their unavailing toil,
which, with the accompanyment of the clanking of their irons, is the real
voice of wo, and attunes the soul to sympathy and compassion, more than
the most elaborate piece of music.
The troops are remarkably well cloathed, and in fine order, both infantry
and cavalry; the horses are small, but spirited, and tournaments
frequently performed as the favourite amusement of the inhabitants, at
which the cavaliers display a wonderful share of address.
The town is large, built of stone, and the streets very regular; there
are several handsome churches, monasteries, and nunneries, and contains
about forty thousand inhabitants; but, like the old town of Edinburgh,
each floor contains a distinct family, and of course liable to the same
inconveniencies, cleanliness being none of its most shining virtues.
The officers of the army shewed us uncommon kindness, and made us some
presents of red bird skins for the savages we were going amongst.
I cannot, in words, bestow sufficient panegyric on the laudable exertions
of my worthy messmates, Lieutenants Corner and Hayward, for their
unremitting zeal in procuring and nursing such plants as might be useful
at Otaheitee or the islands we might discover.
We now took leave of our friends here, and it was with some regret, as it
was bidding adieu to civilized life, for a very undetermined space of
time. Lieutenant Hayward having finished his astronomical observations on
shore, came on board with the time-keeper and instruments, and again
proceeded on our voyage, on the morning of January 8, 1791. In running
down the coast of the Brazils, saw several spermacæti whales, and vessels
employed on that fishery. Could it have been accomplished in the month of
January, it was intended to take in a supply of water at New-Year's
harbour, but the season was too far advanced. The weather now became
cold, and the health of the people mended apace: passed by the straits of
Magellan, and on the 31st of January saw Cape St. Juan, Staten Island,
and New-Year's Island. The thermometer was at 48 degrees. We were
fortunate enough to weather the tempestuous regions of Cape Horn, without
any thing remarkable happening, although late in the season.
The weather, as we advanced, became now exceedingly pleasant, and the
many good things with which we were supplied, began to have a wonderful
good effect on the strength of our convalescents. I here beg the reader's
indulgence for a small digression on the health of the seamen, as it is a
subject of much national importance, and those voyages the only test of
what is found to succeed best, my duty leads me to the attempt, however
unequal to the task:
It may be remarked, the sour Crout kept during the voyage, in the highest
perfection, and was often eat as a sallad with vinegar, in preference to
recent, cut vegetables from the shore. A cask of this grand antiscorbutic
was kept open for the crew to eat as much of as they pleased; and I will
venture to affirm, that it will answer every purpose that can be expected
from the vegetable kingdom.
The Essence of Malt afforded a most delightful beverage, and, with the
addition of a little hops, in the warmest climates, made as good strong
beer as we could in England. We were likewise supplied with malt in
grain, but should prefer the essence, as it is less liable to decay, and
stows in much less room, which is a very valuable consideration in long
voyages.
Cocoa we found great benefit from; it is much relished by the men, stows
in little room, and affords great nourishment. At the close of the war in
1783, in the West Indies, men that had been the whole war on salt
provisions, from a liberal use of the cocoa, got fat and strong, and in
the _Agamemnon_ we had five hundred men who had served most of the war on
salt provisions; but after the cocoa was introduced, we had not a sick
man on board till the day she was paid off. Indeed it is the only article
of nourishment in sea victualling; for what can in reason be expected
from beef or pork after it has been salted a year or two?
Wheat we found answer extremely well, rough ground in a mill occasionally
as we wanted it, and with the addition of a little brown sugar, it made a
pleasant nourishing diet, of which the men were extremely fond. Another
great advantage attending it, that it does not require half the quantity
of water that pease do.
Soft bread was found extremely beneficial to the sick and convalescent,
and we availed ourselves of every opportunity of baking for half the
complement at a time. As the flour keeps so much longer sound than
biscuit, it may be needless to remark its superior advantages; besides,
it is not liable to be damaged by water or otherwise, so much as bread,
as a crust forms outside, which protects the rest. In point of stowage it
likewise is preferable.
As the fate of every expedition of this kind depends much on the exertion
of the subordinate departments of office, the thanks of every individual
in the _Pandora_ is due to Mr. Cherry, for his uncommon attention to the
victualling.
The dividing the people into three watches had a double good effect as it
gave them longer time to sleep, and dry themselves before they turned in;
and as most of our crew consisted of landsmen, the fewer people being on
deck at a time, rendered it necessary to exert themselves more in
learning their duty.
The air became now temperate, mild, and agreeable; but unfortunately we
sprung a leak in the after part of the ship, which reached the bread
room, and damaged much of it, as one thousand five hundred and fifteen
pounds were thrown over-board, and a great deal much injured, that we
kept for feeding the cattle. Many blue Peterals were seen flying about,
and on the 4th of March saw Easter Island. We now set the forge to work,
and the armourers were busily employed in making knives and iron work to
trade with the savages. On the 16th we discovered a Lagoon Island of
about three or four miles extent; it was well wooded, but had no
inhabitants, and was named Ducie's Island, in honour of Lord Ducie.
On the 17th we discovered another Island, about five or six miles long,
with a great many trees on it, but was not inhabited: this was called
Lord Hood's Island.
On the 19th we discovered an Island of the same description as the
former, which was named Carrisfort Island, in honour of Lord Carrisfort.
On the 22nd passed Maitea, and on the morning of the 23rd of March
anchored in Matavy bay, in the Island of Otaheitee. In the dawn of the
morning, a native immediately on seeing us, paddled off in his canoe, and
came on board, who shewed expressions of joy to a degree of madness, on
embracing and saluting us, by whom we learnt that several of the
mutineers were on the island; but that Mr. Christian and nine men had
left Otaheitee long since in the _Bounty_, and amused the natives, by
telling them Captain Bligh had gone to settle at Whytutakee, and that
Captain Cook was living there. Language cannot express his surprise on
Lieutenant Hayward's being introduced to him, who had been purposely
concealed.
At eleven in the forenoon the Launch and Pinnance was dispatched with
Lieutenants Corner and Hayward and twenty-six men, to the north west part
of the island, in quest of mutineers. Immediately on our arrival, Joseph
Coleman, the armourer of the _Bounty_, came on board, and a little after
the two midshipmen belonging to the _Bounty_; at three Richard Skinner
came off, and on the 25th the boats returned, after chasing the mutineers
on shore, and taking possession of their boat. As they had taken to the
heights, and claimed the protection of Tamarrah, a great chief in Papara,
who was the proper king of Otaheitee, the present family of Ottoo being
usurpers, and who intended, had we not arrived with the assistance of the
_Bounty's_ people, to have disputed the point with Ottoo.
On the twenty-seventh we sent the Pinnace with a present of a bottle of
rum to king Ottoo, who was with his two queens at Tiaraboo, requesting
the honour of his company, but the bottle of rum removed all scruples,
and next day the royal family paid us a visit, and in his suit came
Oedidy, a chief particularly noticed by Captain Cook.
On the first visit they make it a point of honour of accepting of no
present; but they make sufficient amends for that, by introducing a
numerous train of dependents afterwards, to obtain presents.
The King is a tall handsome looking man, about six feet three inches
high, good natured, and affable in his manners. His principal queen,
Edea, is a robust looking, course woman, about thirty, and was extremely
solicitous in learning and adopting our customs, and on hearing our
English ladies drank tea, became very fond of it. The other queen, or
concubine, named Aeredy, is a pretty young creature, about sixteen years
of age: they all three sleep together, and live in the most perfect
harmony.
A detachment of men were immediately ordered, under the command of
Lieutenant Corner, to march across the country, and if possible to get
between the mountains and the mutineers; this gentleman was extremely
well calculated for an expedition of this kind, having, in the early part
of his life, bore a commission in the land service, and next morning they
landed on Point Venus, attended by the principal chiefs as conductors,
and a number of the common people to assist in carrying the ammunition
over the heights: what rendered their assistance more necessary, was
their having to cross a rapid cataract, or river, which came down from
the mountains, and formed so many curves. They had to ford it sixteen
times in the course of their journey, which gave evident proofs of the
superior strength of the natives over the English seamen. The former went
over with ease, where the sailors could not stem the rapidity of the
torrent without their help. They were, however, forced to send to the
ship for ropes and tackles to gain some heights which were otherwise
inaccessible.
On the party coming to a rest, the Lieutenant expressed a wish to one of
the natives for something to eat, who told him he might be supplied with
plenty of victuals ready dressed; he immediately ran to a temple, or
place of worship, where meat was regularly served to their god, and came
running with a roasted pig, that had been presented that day. This
striking instance of impiety rather startled the Lieutenant, which the
other easily got over, by saying there was more left than the god could
eat.
It was with much difficulty they could restrain the natives from
committing depredations on the Cava grounds of the upper districts, as
they were on the eve of a war with them respecting the hereditary right
of the crown.
The party now arrived at the residence of a great chief, who received
them with much hospitality and kindness; and after refreshing them with
plenty of meat and drink, carried the officer to visit the Morai of the
dead chief, his father. Mr. Corner judging it necessary, by every mark of
attention, to gain the good graces of this great man, ordered his party
to draw up, and fire three vollies over the deceased, who was brought out
in his best new cloaths, on the occasion; but the burning cartridge from
one of the muskets, unfortunately set fire to the paper cloaths of the
dead chief. This unlucky disaster threw the son into the greatest
perplexity, as agreeable to their laws, should the corpse of his father
be stolen away, or otherwise destroyed, he forfeits his title and estate,
and it descends to the next heir.