to look for the harbours or anchorage, and soon after Lt. Corner was sent
in the yawl for the same purpose and to look out for the _Bounty_ and her
people. At noon, perceiving the schooner and cutter had got round the
Northernmost island, I stood round the S.E. island with the ship in
order to join the yawl that was at a grapnel off that island, and sent
the other yawl to join Lt. Corner. At 4 the two yawls returned with a
quantity of cocoanuts and Lt. Corner also returned on board. Soon after,
Lt. Hayward was sent on shore in the yawl to examine the S.W. island.
After dark we burnt several false fires as signals to the boat, but the
weather being thick and squally she did not return till the morning of
the 23rd, but the tender joined us that night and informed me that she
had found a yard on the island marked "Bounty's Driver Yard" and other
circumstances that indicated that the _Bounty_ was, or had been there.
The tender was immediately sent on shore after the yawl.
On the 23rd provisions, ammunition, &c., was sent on board the
tender,[43-1] and Lt. Corner with a party of men were sent with the yawl
and tender to land on the Northernmost island. At 4 in the afternoon,
perceiving that the schooner tender had anchored under that island the
yawl landing the party on the reef leading to it, Lt. Corner had orders
to examine that and the Easternmost island very minutely to see if any
other traces besides the yard could be made out of the _Bounty_ or her
people.
On the 24th in the morning sent the cutter on board the tender for
intelligence, but she did not return till nearly 2 o'clock in the
afternoon, when she brought with her seven men of Lt. Corner's party. She
was sent on board the tender again with orders for the remainder of the
party that was returned from the search to be brought on board the
_Pandora_ in the yawl, and for the cutter to remain on board the tender
to embark Lt. Corner when he returned, the midshipman having represented
that she answered the purpose of landing and embarking better than the
larger boat from the particular circumstances of the landing place; and I
stood over for the S.W. island to take on board the other yawl which had
been sent to ground near the reef of that island and to procure from it
some cocoanuts, &c.
At 5 the yawl came on board, and I then stood towards the schooner in
order to take the other yawl on board, but the weather became squally
with rain and I stood out to sea. During the night the weather was
rougher than usual, with an ugly sea and I did not get close in with them
again till the 28th at noon, soon after which the yawl came on board from
the schooner and informed us to my great astonishment and concern that
the cutter had not been on board her since she left the ship.[44-1] The
tender was ordered to run down by the side of the reef and if the cutter
was not seen there to run out to sea six leagues and to steer about
W.N.W.-W., it being the opposite point to that on which the wind blew
from the preceding night, and I waited with the ship to take on board Lt.
Corner who was not then returned from the search. He soon after appeared
and was taken on board.
In his search he found a double canoe curiously painted, and different in
make from those we had seen on the islands we had visited. A piece of
wood burnt half through was also found. The yard and these things lay
upon the beach at high water mark and were all eaten by the sea worm,
which is a strong presumption they were drifted there by the waves. The
driver yard was probably drove from Toobouai where the _Bounty_ lost the
greater part of her spars, and as no recent traces could be found on the
island of a human being or any part of the wreck of a ship I gave up all
further search and hopes of finding the _Bounty_ or her people there. I
then stood out to sea and the ship and the tender cruized about in search
of the cutter until the 29th in the morning, when seeing nothing of her,
I being at that time well in with the land, sent on shore once more to
examine the reef and beach of the northernmost island, but with no better
success than before, as neither the cutter or any article belonging to
her could be found there.
I then steered for the Duke of York's island which we got sight of at
noon on the 6th June, and in the afternoon the tender and two yawls were
sent on shore to examine the coast. On the 7th in the morning Lt. Corner
and Hayward were sent on shore with a party of men attended by the
schooner and two yawls. We soon after saw some huts upon the island and
so made a signal to the boats to warn them of danger, and for them to be
upon their guard against surprise. They landed and got canoes to the
within side of the lagoon in which they made a circuit of it. A few
houses were found in examining the hills on the opposite side of the
lagoon, and also a ship's large wooden buoy, which appeared to be of
foreign make, and had evident marks of its having been long in the water.
As Mr. Byron describes the Duke of York's island to be without
inhabitants, the sight of the houses and ship's buoy, before they were
minutely examined wrot so strongly on the minds of the people that they
saw many things in imagination that did not exist, but all tended to
persuade them that the _Bounty's_ people were really upon the island
agreeable to the intelligence given by Hillbrant, but after a most minute
and repeated search, no human being of any description could be found
upon the island. There were a number of canoes, spare paddles, fishing
gear, and a variety of other things found in the houses which seemed to
prove that it was an occasional residence and fishery of the natives of
some neighbouring islands.[46-1]
There is so great a difference in the situation of this island as laid
down in the charts of Hawkesworth's collection of voyages and also some
others from that of Captain Cook that there may be some doubt about its
real situation. I followed that of Captain Cook, yet the situation of
this island by our account did not exactly agree with him. He lays it
down in Latitude 8° 41' S. and Longitude 173° 3' W., and the centre of
the island by our account lies Latitude 8° 34' S. and Longitude by
observation 172° 6', and by timekeeper 172° 39' W. By our estimation this
island is not so large as it is by Mr. Byron's. In other respects, except
the houses, it answers his description very well. I should have stood off
to the westward to have seen if there were any other islands in that
direction, but I was apprehensive by so doing that I might have much
difficulty in fetching the island I had then to visit, and as the wind
was favourable to stand to the Southward when I left the island, I
therefore satisfied myself in passing to the westward of it and
stretching to the northward so far as to know there was no island within
thirty miles of it on that point of the compass, and also to pass to the
windward of the island when I put about and stood to the northward.
In standing to the Northward I discovered an island on the 12th
June.[46-2] We soon perceived that it was a lagoon island, formed by a
great many small islands connected together by a reef of rocks, forming a
circle round the lagoon in its centre. It is low, but well wooded,
amongst which the cocoanut tree is conspicuous both for its height and
peculiar form. As we approached the land we saw several natives on the
beach. Lt. Hayward was sent with the tender and yawl in shore to
reconnoitre and to endeavour to converse with the natives, and if
possible to bring about a friendly intercourse with them. They made signs
of friendship and beckoned him to come on shore, yet, whenever he drew
near with the boat, they always retired, and he could not prevail on them
to come to her; and the surf was thought too great to venture to land, at
least before the friendship of the natives was better confirmed.
We soon afterwards saw several sailing canoes with stages in their
middle, sailing across the lagoon for the opposite islands, but whether
it was a flight, or that they were only going a-fishing, or on some other
business, we were at that time at a loss to know. Lt. Corner was sent to
look for a better landing place, and, thinking that there was the
appearance of an opening into the lagoon round the N.W. island, I stood
that way with the ship to take a view of it but found that it was also
barred in that part by a reef. Better landing places were found, but they
were to leeward and at a considerable distance from the place that seemed
to be the principal residence of the natives.
The next morning Lt. Corner and Hayward landed with a strong party near
the houses, which they found deserted by the natives, and they had taken
with them all the canoes except one. It appeared exactly to resemble
those we had seen at the Duke of York's island. The houses, fishing gear
and utensils were also similar to those seen there, which made me suppose
that these were the people who occasionally visited that island, but this
had the appearance of being the principal residence as Morais, or burying
places, were found at this, but none at the former.
I was very desirous to get into communication with these people, as I
thought we might possibly get some useful information relative to the
buoy we had seen at the Duke of York's island, or about the _Bounty_ had
she touched at either of these islands, or at any others in their
neighbourhood. With that view I left in and about the houses hatchets,
knives, glasses and a variety of things that I thought would be useful or
pleasing to them, and also to show them that we were disposed to be
friendly to them, and by that means I hoped they would become less shy,
and that our intercourse with them would be brought about; and I stood
round the northernmost island to visit other parts of the island, and on
the 14th in the morning Lt. Corner was sent on shore with the tender,
yawl and canoe, and he landed to the eastward of the northernmost island
and marched round to the northeast extremity of the islands: he perceived
marks of bare feet of the natives in different parts, but more
particularly about the cocoanut trees, most of which were stripped of
their fruit, but not a single person or canoe could be found. He embarked
again at that part of the isles with great difficulty by the assistance
of cork jackets and rope and the canoe. I supposed that the natives had
left the island and I bore away to join the tender that had been sent to
search for a channel into the lagoon near the northernmost isle; and
after joining her I went once more towards the place we had first
examined, and seeing no natives or any signs of them there I gave up the
search.
On the 15th stood to the southward for Navigators' islands. I called the
island the Duke of Clarence's Island. It lies in Latitude 9° 9' 30" and
Longitude 171° 30' 46".[48-1] From the abundance of cocoanut trees both
on this and the Duke of York's island, in the trunks of which holes were
cut transversely to catch and preserve water, and as no other water was
seen by us we supposed it was the only means they had of procuring that
useful and necessary article. On the 18th in the forenoon we saw a very
high island and as I supposed it to be a new discovery I called it
Chatham island,[49-1] and standing in for it, I perceived a Bay towards
the N.E. end and I made a tack to endeavour to look into it. Perceiving
that I could not accomplish my intentions before night I bore away and
ran along the shore and sent the tender to reconnoitre, and found,
opposite to a sandy beach where there was an Indian town, she got 25
fathoms about a quarter of a mile from the reef, which runs off the place
and carries soundings of sand regularly in to 5 fathoms.
In the morning a boat was sent to ground in an opening in the reef before
the town, in which 3 fathoms of water was found, and 2½ fathoms within
it. This harbour is situated on the North side near the middle, but
rather nearest to the West end.[49-2] We were told that there was a river
there, and another or two between it and the South end. We then ran round
the West to the S.W. end of the island and in the bay there 25 fathoms of
water was found, the bottom rather foul and bad landing for a ship's
boat. The natives said there was another, but the boat being called on
board by signal she did not dare to examine into the truth of their
report. We found here a native of the Friendly Islands, who called
himself Fenow, and a relation of the chief of that name of
Tongataboo.[49-3] Fenow said he had seen Captain Cook and English ships
at the Friendly Islands, and that the natives of this island had never
seen a ship before they saw the _Pandora_. The island is more than 30
miles long. A high mountain [4000 feet] extends almost from one extremity
to the other, which tapers down gradually at the ends and sides to the
sea where it generally terminates in perpendicular cliffs of moderate
height, except in a few places where there is a white beach of coral
sand. The natives called the island Otewhy;[50-1] latitude of
Northernmost point 13° 27' 48" S. Longitude 172° 32' 13" W. South Point
Latitude 13° 46' 18" S., Longitude 172° 18' 20" W., and East point in
Latitude 13° 32' 20" S. and Longitude 172° 2' W.
On the 21st we saw another island[50-2] about 4 leagues to the Eastward
of this, and there are two small islands between them, a small one in the
middle and four off its East end, three of which are of considerable
height. There is a greater variety of mountains and valleys in this than
in Chatham's and it is exceedingly well wooded, and the trees of enormous
size grow upon the very summits of the mountains with spreading heads
resembling the oak. The same sort of trees were also seen in the same
situation at Chatham, but not in so great abundance. This island is near
forty miles long and of considerable breadth. The natives called it
Oattooah.[50-3] Their canoes (although not so well finished), language
and some of their customs much resemble those of the Friendly Islands,
but they have some peculiar to themselves--that of dyeing their skins
yellow and which is a mark of distinction amongst them is one of
them.[50-4] The Latitude of the West point is 13° 52' 25" S. and
Longitude 171° 49' 13" W. and the S.E. part in Latitude 14° 3' 30" S.
and Longitude 171° 12' 50" W. As this island by our account was
considerably to the Westward of the Navigators' islands, we at first
supposed it to be a new discovery, but in visiting the other of the
Navigators' islands discovered by Mons. Bougainville and running down
again upon this we had reason to suppose that the S.E. end of Oattooah
had been seen by him at a distance, and that it was the last island of
the group that he saw.[51-1]
Between five and six o'clock of the evening of the 22nd June lost sight
of our tender in a thick shower of rain. Some thought that they saw her
light again at eight o'clock, but in the morning she was not to be seen.
We cruised about for her in sight of the island on the 23rd and 24th and
as I could not find the tender near the place where she was first lost, I
thought it better to make the best of my way to Annamooka, the place
appointed as a last rendezvous and to endeavour to get there before her,
lest her small force should be a temptation to the natives to attack her,
and accordingly we stood to the Southward.[51-2] When we were to the
Eastward of Oattooah we saw another island bearing from us about E.S.E.
eight leagues. We afterwards knew that this was one of the Navigators'
islands seen by Mons. Bougainville. On the morning of the 28th we saw the
Happy [Haapai] islands, and before noon a group of islands to the
Eastward of Annamooka. We passed round to the Southward of these islands
and ran down between little Annamooka and the Fallafagee isles and on the
29th anchored in Annamooka Road.
Whilst we were watering the ship, &c. I sent Lt. Hayward to the Happy
[Haapai] Islands in a double canoe, which I hired of Tooboo a chief of
these islands for the purpose of examining them and to make inquiries
after the _Bounty_ and the tender, but no intelligence could be got of
either of these vessels at these two islands, nor at either of the Happy
islands, and having completed our water and got a plentiful supply of
yams and a few hogs, we sailed from thence on the 10th July. The natives
were very daring in their thefts, but some of the articles stolen were
recovered again by the chiefs, yet many of them were entirely lost, and
as I did not think it proper to carry things to extremities on that
occasion for fear that too much rigour might operate to the disadvantage
of the tender should she arrive at the island in our absence, which I
told them I expected she would do, and that I intended to return with the
ship in about 20 days, and I left a letter of instructions for the tender
with Moukahkahlah, a resident chief, which he promised to deliver. He is
not the superior chief, but we found him most useful to us and I thought
him the most worthy of trust.
Whilst we were at Annamooka, Fattahfahe [Fatafehi][52-1] the chief of all
the islands, and who generally resides at Tongataboo or Amsterdam
Island, came to visit us, as did also a great number of the chiefs from
the adjacent islands and to all of whom I gave presents and also to such
of their friends and attendances that were introduced for the purpose of
receiving favours. A person called Toobou was the principal person in
authority at Annamooka when we arrived there. I learned that he belonged
to Tongataboo, and had little property on the island he governed, and I
supposed that he was a deputy or minister of Fattahfahe who is generally
acknowledged to be the superior chief of all the islands known under the
names of the Friendly, Happy, and also of many other islands unknown to
us. Fattahfahe and Toobou were on board the _Pandora_ when she got under
way, attended by two large double sailing canoes, the largest of which
had upwards of 40 persons on board. I suppose that they came on board to
take leave and in expectation of getting some additional farewell
presents, in which they were not disappointed.
I knew that Fattahfahe was shortly going to make a tour of the Happy
Islands, and as I perceived that he was exceedingly well pleased with
what I had given him, and with his situation and accommodation on board
the ship, I invited him to come with us to Toofoa [Tofoa] and Kaho [Kao],
two islands I was then steering for and that I intended to visit, as I
thought he would be useful by procuring us a favourable landing at
Toofoa, the island whose inhabitants had behaved so treacherously to Lt.
Bligh when he put in there for refreshments in the _Bounty's_ launch.
Before the sun set we got within a small distance of the island, but it
was too late for our boats to go on shore, and the canoes were sent to
the islands to announce the arrival of these great chiefs; their coming
in the ship I made no doubt would increase their consequence, and
probably also the tribute they might think proper to impose on their
subjects.
The next morning Lt. Corner, attended by the two chiefs, was sent on
shore at Toofoa to search and to make the necessary inquiries after the
_Bounty_ and our tender, &c. and then to cross the channel which is about
three or four miles over, and to do the same at Kaho, and when I saw the
boat put off from Toofoa and stand over for the other island I bore away
with the ship and ran through the channel between the two islands. At
four in the afternoon Lt. Corner, Fattahfahe and Toobou, returned on
board without success in their search and inquiries. The two chiefs were
put on board their canoes, and they made sail for the Happy
Islands.[54-1]
I now intended to have visited Tongataboo and the other of the Friendly
Islands, but, as the wind was Southerly and unfavourable for the purpose,
I took the resolution once more to visit Oattooah, and also the
Navigators' Islands in search of the _Bounty_ and our tender and to
endeavour to fall in to the eastward of those islands. On the morning of
the 12th we discovered a cluster of islands bearing from us W. by S. to
N.W. by N., but as the wind was favourable for us to proceed I did not
think it proper to lose time in examining them now, but intended to do it
on my return to the Friendly Islands.[55-1]
On the 14th, in the forenoon, we saw three islands, which we supposed to
be the three first islands seen by Mons. Bougainville and part of the
cluster called by him "Navigators' Islands," the largest of these islands
the natives called Toomahnuah.[55-2] We passed them at a convenient
distance and several canoes came towards the ship, and it was with great
difficulty that we prevailed on them to come alongside, and still greater
difficulty to get them into the ship. They brought very few things in
their canoes except cocoanuts, which I bought, and then gave them a few
things as presents before they left the ship, and after making the
necessary inquiries as far as our limited knowledge of the language would
permit us, I proceeded to the Westward and before daylight on the morning
of the 15th we saw another island. We ran down on the North side of it
and brought to occasionally to find and take on board canoes.
We found the same shyness amongst the natives here as at the last
islands, but a few presents being given to them they at last ventured on
board. The island is called by them Otootooillah.[55-3] It is at least 5
leagues long; we supposed it to be another of the islands seen by Mons.
Bougainville. We got soundings in 53 fathoms water, and the depth
decreased as we stood in shore, and there is probable anchorage on this
side of the island sheltered from the prevailing winds, but we did not
see the reef mentioned by Mons. Bougainville to run two leagues from the
West end.
After making inquiries after the _Bounty_ and tender and making presents
to our visitors, we steered to the Westward, inclining to the North and
before night saw Oattooa, bearing W.N.W. The South East end of this
island was also probably seen by Mons. Bougainville, but by his
description he could only have had a distant and a very imperfect view of
the island. On the 16th we ran down on the South side of it, almost to
the West end, and had frequent communication with the natives, but could
get no information relative either to the _Bounty_ or our tender. We saw
a few of the natives with blue, mulberry and other coloured beads about
their necks, and we understood that they got them from Cook at
Tongataboo, one of the Friendly Islands. Having finished my business
here, I stood to the Southward with the intention of visiting the group
of islands we had discovered on our way hither, and we got sight of them
again in the afternoon of the 18th.[56-1]
On the 19th, in the morning we ran down on the North side until we came
to an opening through which we could see the sea on the opposite side,
and a kind of sound is formed by some islands to the North East and some
islands of considerable size to the South West, and in the intermediate
space there are several small islands and rocks. On the larboard hand of
the North entrance there is a shoal, on which the sea appears to break
although there is from ten to twelve fathoms of water upon it. In the
other part of the entrance there is forty fathoms of water or more. Our
boat had only time to examine the entrance and the larboard side of the
sound, in which there are interior bays where about 30 fathoms of water
is to be found within a cables length of the shore. The branches of the
sound on the starboard side, and which are yet unexamined, appear to
promise better anchorage than was found on the opposite shore, and should
it turn out so, it will be by far the safest and best anchorage hitherto
known amongst the Friendly Islands.[57-1]
The natives told us there was good water at several places within the
sound, and there is plenty of wood. Several of the inferior chiefs were
on board us, amongst whom were one of Fattahfahe's and one of Toobou's
family, but the principal chief of the island was not on board, but we
supposed he was coming at the time we made sail.[57-2] They brought on
board yams, cocoanuts, some bread fruit, and a few hogs and fowls, and
would have supplied us with more hogs had it been convenient for us to
have made a longer stay with them, and which they entreated us much to
do. We found them very fair in their dealings, very inoffensive and
better behaved than any savages we had yet seen.