The Lottery—Its miserable results—Evening parties—Absence
of all ostentation—Poverty no crime—Grand supper on Shrove
Tuesday—Reception of a Cardinal.
The national taste for gambling—so strikingly illustrated to the most
casual observer in the excitement produced by the tombola—is still
more perniciously fostered by the system of the government lottery,
the existence of which produces the most baneful influence upon the
country. As in the tombola, the numbers range from one to ninety, of
which five are drawn every week at Rome. What is termed playing in the
lottery, consists in staking sums, varying in amount at the pleasure
of the player, upon one or more numbers, which, if they come up,
yield prizes proportionate to the sum hazarded and the manner of the
venture. For instance, if a person decides upon three numbers—say 19,
27, 60—and plays upon what is called the _terno secco_, he receives no
profit unless all three are drawn; but then, in case he is successful,
his gain is infinitely more considerable than if he had stipulated
for a prize should only two of his numbers appear. A _quinterno_—that
is, for five numbers played on the same ticket to come up together—is
very rare; yet there are not wanting instances of this extraordinary
good-fortune, which are eagerly remembered, and have been fatal lures
to many an infatuated player.
The _botteghini_, or lottery-shops, are constantly filled with the
most idle and miserable of the population, who come to risk the few
bajocchi they have stolen from the urgent wants of their families
upon the numbers they may have dreamed of, or seen written upon a
wall, or picked up on a slip of paper in the street, or that have
been given them by some person supposed to be skilled in this species
of divination. But this dangerous propensity is not confined to the
lower classes—all seem to play with reckless infatuation: the rich
prelate, with the aim of still further augmenting his hoarded wealth;
the speculative trader, to gratify his love of hazard and excitement;
and the poor working-man, with the more simple motive of relieving the
sharp penury of the moment, or realizing some vision of prosperity.
The young artist ventures his quarter of a dollar every week on the
_terno_ selected by his lady-love, in the hope of a prize sufficient
to enable him to gratify his dream of foreign travel and excitement;
the servant-girl has faith in the numbers given her by a white-bearded
Capuchin, and plays them in the fond delusion of winning a dowry and a
husband; and that worn and wretched-looking woman, with three or four
tattered children at her heels, and a puling swaddled infant in her
arms, gaunt famine stamped on every feature, comes to stake five or six
copper coins on the numbers she has dreamed her dead husband brought
her in the night, and goes back to the damp cellar she inhabits, to
indulge in restless anticipations of plenty and success.
The prevalence of the lottery tends to keep up superstition of the
most debasing kind: omens, dreams, lucky or unlucky days, are noted,
and the corresponding numbers eagerly sought for in books published
for the purpose, a tattered copy of which is sure to be possessed
by any family who can boast of a member sufficiently a scholar to
decipher it. If a bat flies in at a window, the number analogous to
this portent is looked out and played; if a favourite dish is dreamed
of, the cabalistic volume is again consulted. On occasion of a criminal
being executed, half the town plays numbers corresponding to the event
itself, the culprit's age, and the nature of his crime.
Another popular method of invoking fortune is to consult priests and
friars; amongst the latter, the Capuchins enjoy the greatest reputation
for the success of their predictions. The most singular feature in the
proceeding is, that as the clergy are forbidden to give numbers, the
letter of this prohibition is very skilfully eluded by no allusion
being made to the subject, but the priest, for example, tells a
story in which he brings in some striking circumstance, having, as he
well knows, a direct reference to the dream-book, which is consulted
accordingly.
It is altogether a grievous evil—a plague-spot extending far and wide.
Many families, from comparative affluence, have been reduced to beggary
by the indulgence of this passion. Even those who gain prizes appear
to reap no lasting benefit from success; and amidst all the wonderful
stories related of people being unexpectedly enriched by winning a
prize, I cannot at this moment remember one instance in which any
permanent good has resulted from the lottery. Unfortunately, as it is
a government monopoly, and yielding a large revenue, in the existing
order of things there is no ground to hope for its suppression.
I have digressed again from the Carnival; and perpetually find myself
painting in sombre colours, when I would fain impart a little light and
liveliness to my picture. The truth is that I have little of gaiety
to record; for it must not be overlooked that I am writing about a
country under the blight of an armed foreign intervention, and kept
in control by the Austrian discipline of the stick. The only parties I
remember during the so-called gay season were weekly evening reunions
at the residence of one of the foreign consuls, where the lady of the
house, a charming and gifted Parisian, drew together forty or fifty of
the leading people of the place. It required the utmost effort of her
amiability and liveliness, however, to accomplish this, for all spirit
and wish for enjoyment seem to have forsaken the Italians, excepting
their constancy to the theatre, which they cling to with the tenacity
of old associations.
In these small parties, all the amiable features of the Italian
nobility were brought to light—their freedom from affectation or
ostentatious pride, their perfect good-breeding, and absence of
invidious comparisons or vying with each other—points in which I fear
the society of a provincial town in England, notwithstanding our
boasted intellectual advantages, would be lamentably inferior. The
ladies dressed simply, but almost invariably in good taste; and, what
was much to their credit, they whose circumstances would have enabled
them to outshine the rest, never attempted any display; those, on the
other hand, who were known to have very limited resources, made no
struggles to appear rich, and had no feeble attempts at splendour, no
incongruous putting together of faded flowers and Roman pearls—which,
by the by, are carefully eschewed in the land of their nativity—or
tarnished feathers. A most graceful example of delicacy towards the
feelings of such as were in restricted circumstances was set by the
hostess, who, although belonging to one of the first and wealthiest
families of France, and possessing a wardrobe stocked with all the
novelties of Paris, always appeared in the same dress, without any
ornaments of value; and amiable as she was to all her guests, she yet
peculiarly devoted herself to those from whom she could receive no
attention or hospitality in return.
Amongst the most regular in coming every week, were a young couple
whose situation excited universal sympathy. The contessina was the
daughter of the last representative of a very old but impoverished
family, and was married to a native of Lombardy, but had been pursued
by a series of misfortunes, which ended in the ruin and exile of
her husband. Compelled to return with him to her own country in the
utmost poverty, she was everywhere treated with as much consideration
as if the wealth of Crœsus was at her disposal. No one looked down
upon her, though it was known she kept but one servant girl, and
always ironed her husband's shirts; and none of the ladies fancied it
derogatory to dance with the poor refugee who gave lessons in drawing
and mathematics, and was at his wits' end to provide a maintenance for
his young wife and child. Evidently their poverty was no crime and no
disgrace.
The style of these parties was perfectly simple and inexpensive.
There was no supper, no constant eating and drinking, no incessant
jingling of trays and glasses, or adjournment to the refreshment-room.
A tea-table, presided over by the hostess herself, or one of the
ladies present, formed the great centre of attraction: people gathered
in groups round it, not formally arranged, but some sitting, others
standing—_les petits jeunes gens_, the adolescent beaux, making
themselves useful, and handing the tea, in lieu of the attendance
of servants, which, as tending to formality, was as much as possible
dispensed with. This, with ices handed round once or twice later in
the evening, was considered ample for the refection of the company,
who were quite delighted with the _trattamento_, as they termed it,
and enjoyed their ices as children would do any particular treat. On
ordinary occasions, the fashion of the natives was followed in this
house; no refreshments at all being given but a little _eau sucrée_.
The amusements of the evening consisted of dancing, varied by one or
two vocal pieces from some of the persons present, who, accompanied on
the piano by a master, sang magnificently, as Italian amateurs always
do—since, unless especially gifted both as to ear and voice, they never
cultivate the art; and for this reason, though less pretty singing is
heard than in England, one escapes the infliction of much that is bad.
The dancing was much as it is everywhere else—quadrilles, waltzes,
polkas, and the cotillon, but carried on with unaffected spirit and
pleasure. The young men, I especially remarked, did not enjoy that
happy immunity from terpsichorean labours which, amongst us, they so
much covet; and if one of the _gioventù_ would fain have indulged in
a sentimental meditation on a sofa, instead of joining in the dance,
he was presently rebuked by two or three elderly gentlemen of the old
school, who, after inveighing against the degeneracy of the present
age, sent him humbled to seek a partner. A young Tuscan marchese, fresh
from Florence, where probably he had been perverted by intercourse
with British youths, was looked upon quite as a dangerous reprobate,
for declining to dance quadrilles on the plea that they were _troppo
papavero_—that is, too poppy-like, too narcotic for his taste.
This, however, was the only exception to the general characteristics
of good-humour and amiability which prevailed, and never flagged, till
the end of the cotillon intimated that it was time to think of breaking
up. When the night was fine, the most of the company walked; for the
distances were not great enough, and the streets too steep, to render
a carriage necessary or agreeable. Nobody ever seemed tired or cross;
and as all went away in detachments, the sound of their talking and
laughing could be heard at a considerable distance, and was the best
tribute that could be paid to the elegant simplicity and kindness of
their entertainers.
The only opportunity afforded me of seeing the society of Ancona
displayed in all its ceremony and state, was on the evening of
Shrove-Tuesday, the last day of Carnival, when one of the oldest and
richest noble families gave a grand supper, according to established
usage for many years. Then, indeed, all the pomp of by-gone times was
revived, and it was like a scene out of an old play to be met on the
stairs by servants in state liveries bearing huge waxen torches, and
ushered into the great hall, where stood the daïs or raised canopy,
denoting the former dignity of the house as feudal princes, with the
arms and quarterings emblazoned on hangings of scarlet velvet. From
thence one passed through successive rooms, all brilliantly lighted,
into the saloon, at the door of which the two younger sons of the
family, Don Carlo and Don Girolamo, in the absence of their eldest
brother, the Principe, and supported by several of the _amici di casa_,
with deep bows performed the first part of the duties of reception. At
the further end of this apartment was their mother, the Principessa,
in black velvet and diamonds, who, on hearing the names announced,
would, if the new-comer was a lady, advance a few steps to meet her
with a dignity that was peculiarly her own, and, taking her hand,
conducted her to the divan which ran round three sides of the room,
whereon a formidable row of silent figures, arrayed in brocaded silks
and jewels, were deposited. Then, with a prolonged courtesy, which was
in its turn acknowledged by a ceremoniousness of demeanour apparently
looked upon as appropriate to the occasion, the stately old lady would
return to her post. The men, on their entrance, advanced to where she
stood, and bowed profoundly, followed by a circular reverence, to the
fair automatons stationed around, after which they backed out of the
circle, and took their places in the ranks that filled the anteroom and
doorways.
It was amusing enough to watch for awhile, and to speculate whether
it was their fine clothes and their diamonds, or traditional ideas of
etiquette, which had benumbed the whole assemblage, who for the most
part were the same accustomed to meet on such friendly terms at the
simple parties already described; when a great sensation was excited on
the approach of the Cardinal ——, a near relation of the Principessa,
spending a few days in his native city, on his way to the legation to
which he was appointed. The sons, with the intimate friends, hastened
to the head of the stair-case, while the Principessa went as far as
the first drawing-room to receive him. When he entered the saloon, she
alone walked at his side; the rest, with two or three priests he had
brought in his train, his secretary, chaplain, and so forth, flocked
behind. All the ladies stood up at his coming, as if he had been a
royal personage, nor did they resume their seats until he was placed in
an arm-chair, beside which his cousin seated herself.
About ten o'clock, the doors opening into the supper-room were thrown
open; and as the Cardinal led the way, the ladies next, arm in arm,
the men following _en masse_, a really brilliant spectacle presented
itself. The room was large and lofty; the walls covered with crimson
brocade, as also the gilded high-backed chairs and sofas; chandeliers
hung from the richly-painted ceiling; other lights were reflected from
sconces at the sides, and three or four large tables glittered with
massive candelabra. The supper was not laid out as in England—not
even fruits and flowers appeared upon the tables, which were spread
as if for dinner, with a profusion of plate, valuable old china, and
exquisite damask linen.
When the guests were seated, the grey-headed servants brought in large
dishes of macaroni, dressed with gravy and spices, which were placed on
a sideboard, and served out—the young principi and the ever-faithful
friends themselves handing the plates, which the servants stood by in
readiness to change. Such an endless variety of dishes followed, all
brought in and distributed in the same manner, that many have escaped
my recollection: boiled fish, of a quality much prized; _galantines_
of turkey and tongue; _vol-au-vent_; vegetables in forms and variously
prepared; ornamented hams; turkeys stuffed with truffles; chickens _en
mayonnaise_; salads of lobster—in fact, everything that is usual at
suppers, and all in greater profusion, excepting sweets, of which there
was only one kind. Towards the close, various kinds of ice were brought
in, besides bonbons and cakes of different kinds; but no fruit, it not
being considered indispensable to have gigantic apples and pears or
hard pine-apples to grace a supper-table. Champagne, and every other
sort of wine usual on such occasions, were repeatedly handed round,
but, I remarked, scarcely tasted by the ladies; for, temperate as are
the men of Italy, the women surpass them, rarely being prevailed upon
to touch anything but their own country wine, mixed with water.
As soon as the repast commenced, the rigid gravity previously
maintained was gradually laid aside; a genial influence evidently
diffused itself over all. The good things so liberally provided were
really enjoyed, and thoroughly done justice to: many people had not
dined that day, on purpose to have a good appetite for the evening—they
said so with a simplicity that was very pleasant. There was not much
conversation, but a great deal of good-humour, and many pleasantries on
the part of the serving-gentlemen, who, in the pauses, stood about with
plates in their hands, eating, as happily as possible, their own share
of what they had assisted in dispensing. They all said Lent was coming
on too fast not to make the most of the present moment; and certainly
they were as good as their word. The Cardinal gave his acquiescence to
this opinion by a jovial laugh, and leaning back complacently in his
chair, stretched out his legs, resplendent in their scarlet stockings,
with an appearance of intense enjoyment.
As the hour drew on to twelve, an adjournment to the saloon was
proposed, when coffee was brought in, and soon afterwards the
_eminentissimo_ gave the signal for departure. The same formalities
were observed on his exit as attended his appearance, and he was
accompanied down the stairs to his carriage by his young relatives and
the other gentlemen who had received him, carrying silver candlesticks,
in addition to the servants, who bore flambeaux. After he had gone,
the guests rapidly dispersed, and went away cheerful and satisfied,
to commence on the morrow the abstinence which, in all conscientious
families, was rigidly practised during Lent.
On our way home, we passed many houses where suppers were still going
on; for the custom of thus celebrating the last night of Carnival
is universal; and, from the patrician banquet I have described,
down to the humblest artisan or shopkeeper, all endeavour to make
good cheer to the utmost of their power. It is considered seemly,
however, to separate early, in order not to invade the respect due
to Ash-Wednesday; so that the midnight chimes had not long ceased to
reverberate, when silence and darkness enveloped the whole town so
lately surrendered to feasting and enjoyment.