A VISIT TO THE PAMPA COUNTRY.
While awaiting the expected departure of the carts for Mendoza, I
remained with my kind host and his amiable wife, the G.’s. During the
interim, I occupied myself in becoming acquainted with the habits of
the people. One morning, after I had been in Rosario for several days,
a North American--as we from the United States are called--drove into
my host’s _patio_, and announced that he had “come to see the young
chap from the north.” I introduced myself as the person in question,
when he cordially grasped both my hands, and said that he was glad to
meet an old friend again; he regarded all from his own country as such.
He informed me that he lived out on Don B.’s _estancia_, and, having
heard that a countryman was in town, he improved the first opportunity
of visiting him. Of course he had many inquiries to make concerning
news from home, which I answered as well as I could, and soon we were
friends.
This man’s career had been somewhat remarkable. A sailor first, then
variously employed, and now a “breaker in” of wild colts and mules,
he possessed the faculty of adapting himself to all circumstances
peculiar to the true North American. His experiences had been varied,
and he well illustrated in his career the truth of the old adage, “A
rolling stone gathers no moss.” He was thoroughly conversant with all
the peculiarities of pampa life; had observed well the habits of the
birds and animals that live on the plains; was an adept in throwing the
lasso, and mastering wild colts and horses.
“You are here after information, I guess?” interrogated my new friend.
“If so, come with me for a few days, and I will show you how to be a
gaucho. My shoulders are lame with being tossed in the saddle while
breaking colts; but the job is through with for a while, and I’d just
like to show you about.”
“But you have only one horse,” I replied. “Where can I find another?”
“Never mind,” responded Don Daniel, as my friend styled himself.
“Jest you mount him; I can get another: I’ve lots of friends around
the river, and any one will find me a hoss: if it comes to the wust
(worst), I can _find one_ myself.”
An extra blanket was furnished me from the house, and I placed myself
at the disposal of Don Daniel.
The little iron-gray stallion that was to carry me into a strange land
pawed and curvetted, and seemed anxious to be off. The _alforjas_, or
saddle-bags, had been well filled by my lovely hostess. Don Daniel’s
_chifles_, or water-vessels, consisted of two cow’s horns, one of which
he filled with water for his new _amigo_, Don Yankee; the other he
filled at a store with _aguardiente_ for himself.
“Don Yankee,” said he, as he busied himself about this important
matter, “you have come from Boston, the home of temperance doctrines:
stick to your colors, and don’t mistake this horn”--pointing to the
one filled with liquor--“for the one filled with water, as there will
not be more than enough for myself. I take it for my lame shoulders by
an internal application.”
“_Ejo mio, adios_” (God be with you, my son)! exclaimed the
kind-hearted señora. “Don’t fall into a _biscacha_ hole,” warned her
husband; and we were off.
Don Daniel bestrode a good-looking horse, that he had contrived _to
find_ somewhere. “Hurry!” said he, clapping spurs to his animal, as we
turned a corner. “If that lazy _porteño_ sees us, there will be no hoss
for Don Daniel.”
Although we were moving at quite a rapid pace, I remonstrated with my
companion against his using other people’s horses without their consent.
He only laughed, and said, “Poh! you are green, my boy. It is the
custom here. When the _porteño_ needs his hoss, he’ll take a friend’s
animal, as I have done. We are all friends in this country; and
I’ll send his hoss back before a week is out. Now, _caro mio_, push
yourself just a _leetle_ for’ard,--so,--that’s it; don’t ride, like
a pole,--so,--so: here comes a breeze; isn’t this jolly? Now I feel
that pain in my shoulder: a leetle rum won’t hurt it; you can try the
water-cure.”
And on we galloped over the smooth, grassy plains, while the sun,
resembling a huge red shield, sank before us into the grass.
The next day’s travel brought us to the very heart of the gaucho
dominion. As far as the vision extended, and still farther beyond,
a level plain, covered with grass, spread out, on which vast herds
of cattle, the wealth of the herdsmen, were feeding. On we rode, our
horses devouring space with almost untiring speed. Thus far during our
day’s ride we had not met with a single human being. Nothing possessing
life, except cattle and horses, had we seen. But at length we fell
in with a large herd; and attending them were two gauchos, sitting
on the ground, engrossed in a game of cards, their horses standing
beside them. As we approached, they respectfully touched their hats,
and wished us a “_buenas dias_” (good day). We inquired of them the
name of the owner of the neighboring herds, when they replied that we
were upon the _estancia_ of Don Carlos B., in whose service they were
employed as _peons_. We again put our horses to the gallop, and sped
on over the smooth turf. All day the same speed was kept up; for our
animals were true pampa steeds, and scorned a trot. Having traversed
many miles, we met with another herd of cattle, which, instead of
moving from us, as did the droves which we passed in the morning,
seemed differently minded. Two or three old bulls left their several
companies, and approached the spot where we drew up our horses. The
old fellows seemed very courageous, lowering their heads, and shaking
their long, shaggy locks, as if determined to contest our passage, or
protect their weaker companions, who were closely huddled behind those
pampa kings. We dismounted, and, leaving our horses, advanced towards
the bulls. But the moment we touched the ground the animals assumed
another character: as we advanced on foot towards them, they bellowed
loudly, and, turning, with their heads down and tails up, scampered off
as fast as fear could impel them, the ground trembling under the tread
of hundreds of heavy hoofs.
Daniel laughingly explained, while we were mounting our horses, that,
in those distant parts, cattle know man only when he is mounted upon
horseback, and that a gaucho on foot is so rarely beheld that he is
always mistaken for some unknown beast of prey.
As night came on, we dismounted, and, taking off the _recardo_, or
country saddle, spread it upon the grass for a bed; we then hobbled our
horses, and, after making a meal off a strip of roasted beef, lay down
to a night’s welcome sleep.
At dawn we were again in motion, and, after galloping a mile or two,
met a solitary gaucho, who was chasing a herd of cattle. On our
calling to him, he instantly wheeled his horse, and, on inquiry,
informed us--for your gaucho is a polite fellow--that we were upon the
_estancia_ of Don Carlos B.
“Don Carlos!” we exclaimed. “Why, we were upon his estate yesterday,
and have galloped many miles since then. Can it be that his _estancia_
is so large?”
“Yes,” answered the gaucho. “Don Carlos is the largest _estanciero_
within two hundred miles.”
“How large is his farm, then?” I asked.
The gaucho confessed that he was ignorant, and neither did his master
know; for many years before a _pampero_, or hurricane, carried away
the boundary stakes.[1] And even his estate is small beside that of
Candioti, the once great pampa lord, who possessed upwards of two
hundred square leagues of territory, and was owner of nearly a million
head of cattle, besides hundreds of thousands of horses and mules.
Candioti lived in Santa Fé, and once had not a _real_ of his own; but
before he died he sent annually to Peru many thousands of mules, and
a hundred heavily-laden wagons of merchandise. Since his death, his
estate has been divided among his large family of illegitimate children.
As we continued to draw the gaucho out, he warmed up with his subject,
and enthusiastically praised his master, Don Carlos. He dwelt with
especial pride upon his great prowess; told us how he twice inflicted
deep wounds upon the body of Don Vicente Moreno, the famous fighter,
on the last feast day. He informed us that his great man, “Don Carlos,
can catch a shaven and greased pig by the tail, and shoulder it; can
ride the wildest bull upon the pampas, until, worn down by fatigue, it
allows the don to lead it to the corral.” In fine, so many and varied
were this gentleman’s accomplishments, that we wondered that we had not
heard of him before.
From what we heard of Don Carlos, we imagined him to be a mighty
personage; or at least I did, and Don Daniel pretended to, and believed
his dwelling to be almost a palace, judging by his immense wealth,
of which we had had abundant proofs in our long ride. Seeing that we
were struck with the gaucho’s enthusiasm, he offered to lead us to
the presence of his master, which offer we accepted. Galloping across
the pampa, we at last discovered a small object, like a speck in the
distance, which the herdsman pronounced to be the residence of his
master.
As we drew near the house, my previous fine notions received a severe
shock; for, instead of an elegant mansion, with verandas and towers,
we found a hut of stakes, cornstalks, and mud. Two or three holes
knocked through its sides served as windows and ventilators. A few
peach-trees grew behind the building; but they were not planted to
supply the family with fruit, but served for fuel for the _estanciero_;
few trees grow on these plains save those planted for firewood.
Don Carlos came out of his mansion; for the barking of no less than
twenty dogs had heralded our approach, long before we reached the door.
Dismounting from our horses, we repeated a solemn Ave Maria, to which
the don made some appropriate reply, and then invited us within doors,
and introduced us to a dark-complexioned woman, whom he called Doña
Maria, his wife.
_Maté yerba_, the South American tea, was brought out, and served by
the lady herself, who, in preparing it, reclined on the ground in a
position far from graceful. A kettle, one or two tawdry North American
chairs, and an old table, seemed to form the only furniture of the
household. Our attention was attracted by several crania of oxen that
lay scattered about the hut, and, thinking that they might have been
kept as relics of departed favorites, I asked no questions; but I
learned afterwards that the skulls were pampa chairs, and were used as
such by the natives.
The don was a small, dark-complexioned man, with black, restless eyes,
that were constantly scanning surrounding objects. His father was a
Spaniard, his mother an Indian woman. Although he was forty years old,
he had visited the capital but half a dozen times. When he was absent,
he said, his mind wandered back to his _estancia_, and he was not
satisfied until he was again among his herds. Though hospitable in
his manner, he was a misanthrope, and placed but little confidence in
mankind.
When we informed our entertainers that we had come from North America,
we were beset with numerous questions. “Where is North America?” “Can
a man travel there on horseback in two months?” “Is it situated in
England or France?” “Is your moon like ours?” “What food do your people
eat?” and such other queries were made.
We found that the don’s family was composed of several sons and one or
two daughters; but no two of the children were of the same complexion.
I wondered at this, as I was ignorant of the fact that our host was a
polygamist; and though Doña Maria acted as his present wife, and as
mother to children not her own, she never murmured, for her husband was
her lord and master.
All these sons were treated alike, and lived together in perfect
contentment, while some of the degraded beings who bore them acted
as cooks and servants to the household. A little corn was boiled and
eaten with meat, without salt; and after reverently crossing themselves
before the crucifix, which occupied a corner, the family betook
themselves to their saddle-cloths--for it was now night--to rest.
The morning dawned beautifully upon us. As the heavy mist rolled off
the pampas, we beheld the gauchos departing in various directions to
their respective herds, for it was their duty to prevent the animals
from straying off the _estancia_; and though thousands upon thousands
of cattle bear upon their hides the brand of the proprietor, it is
rarely that one is lost. Each gaucho can recognize every animal that
belongs to his particular herd, let the number be hundreds.
The gauchos returned to breakfast at about eleven o clock, and while
they were eating their beef and taking _maté_, I took a walk into the
vicinity of our host’s dwelling. Close at hand were two or three large
staked enclosures called corrals, into which the horses used by the
family were driven nightly for convenience’ sake. At the time of my
visit, all the animals save one had been turned out to graze; this one
remained, as is customary, tied to a stake throughout the day, to be
in readiness for any emergency. The poor fellow stands all day without
eating a mouthful of food. He could not eat grain, having learned to
eat nothing but grass; and as hay was an unknown luxury on the pampa,
he was obliged to wait until night came for his food.
As I wandered about the place, my attention was drawn to the little
parties of animals grazing around me. The oxen were very large, and
would compare most favorably with the finest in North America. The cows
so resembled the oxen in roughness of form and size of limb, that I at
once pronounced them inferior to our own in beauty. Out of thousands of
cows upon the _estancia_, only three were milked, and these but once a
day. These cows, more civilized than their relatives upon the plains,
yield only five or six quarts of milk daily, and I wondered at their
barrenness, but was afterwards informed by the _estanciero_ that they
gave him all the milk he wanted for cheese, and, therefore, he need not
care to improve the stock.
The size of the horses I noticed to be, on the average, smaller than
that of our own animals, though there were many noble specimens, both
of size and beauty, feeding on the plains. These large horses are
generally selected to sell to Chilians; for the people of Chili prefer
large animals, and even _trot_ their horses in some of the cities.
The pampa horses never feel the brush or comb; their coats are rough,
and, instead of heavy manes and flowing tails, they can boast of
little in either. In one thing they can claim superiority over our own
most valuable animals: a pampa horse can gallop a whole day with a
man upon its back, and can endure privations that would soon kill our
stable-reared pets.
When I returned to the hut, I informed our host that in my country
animals are habitually kept housed, in better buildings, in many
instances, than his own residence; and, moreover, in place of allowing
them to dwindle to mere skeletons, by living upon dead grass in the
winter time, as many of his horses did, they are fed upon an article
called hay,--prepared grass,--and grow fat and sleek on grain.
“What!” exclaimed Don Carlos, “horses in houses! Who ever heard of such
a thing?” And the look he gave implied that his private opinion was
that North Americans are greater fools than he took them to be.
It was useless to argue the great value of our horses in comparison
with his; he could not believe that a horse ever was worth two hundred
dollars; he had twenty thousand, which he valued at four dollars each,
and forty thousand horned cattle, that he estimated at eight dollars
per head.
I would here remark that the same kind of cattle could have been bought
ten years since for half the price he estimated his worth; but now the
herdsman had discovered that by slaughtering animals for their hides
thousands have been wasted, and now the demand far exceeds the supply,
and the price of raw hides can never be cheaper than it is at present.
Don Carlos, unlike the farmers of the Banda Oriental, did not believe
in sheep grazing; therefore he never permitted his flocks to increase
beyond fifteen thousand. An offer of fifty cents a head would have been
immediately accepted, and when he received the money, he would have
placed it in a goat-skin, with others of his treasures, and buried it
in the ground.
I had noticed in one of the corrals some curious cattle, of a breed
unknown to me; on inquiry I learned that they were of the _Niata_
breed, which originated among the Indians of the southern pampas, and
was once more numerous than the kind now common. This breed is seldom
met with at present, and Don Carlos had secured these in his corral
by order of a foreigner in Buenos Ayres, who intended sending them to
Paris. These animals have low, heavy foreheads, the lower part being
recurved. The teeth project from the mouth, the lips being short and
incapable of being closed; in fact, they bear resemblance to pug-nosed
dogs. This has the effect of giving them a fierce and terrible look.
Our host remembered the time when a severe drought prevented the usual
growth of grass, and dried it up; but while other cattle lived through
the season, many of the _Niata_ breed were found dead upon the plains,
because, on account of the peculiar formation of their jaws and lips,
they could not lay hold of the grass.
Each of the _estanciero’s_ daughters had a pet ostrich, the two being
representatives of both of the South American species. One of these was
about as tall as an average-sized man, the other of the two species
about two thirds as tall. The first-mentioned one was caught when young
within two miles of the house, and its species is quite common on the
pampas; the smaller variety, known to the gauchos as the _Avestruz
teteze_, was brought from Patagonia, south of the River Negro, by
one of General Rosas’s old soldiers. Neither of these varieties can
compare with the great African bird, their feathers being destitute
of that beauty and delicacy which has made the last-named bird famous
in all countries. In fact, the South American ostriches are properly
cassowaries, a three-toed species; the African has but two toes, and
is, besides, nearly twice the size of the others.
As there have been many conflicting and incorrect accounts published
concerning these birds, I will here give the most interesting, and I
believe correct, information that I have been able to gather.
The male bird prepares the nest, and is obliged sometimes to gather the
eggs into it, the female often being careless as to where she deposits
them. I have been told that the male will attack man if the nest is
disturbed, leaping up and attempting to strike him with his feet.
When pursued, the ostrich readily takes to the water, swimming slowly
but fearlessly; it has been observed migrating from island to island,
swimming apparently without great effort.
The food of these birds consists of grasses, various roots, and the
sweet pod of the _algaroba_ tree, with which they swallow stones,
shells, and other hard substances, to assist in digestion.
In the spring months--in south latitude, September, October, and
November--the male selects his wives, from three to eight in number,
and assumes full control of their movements, fighting off any bachelor
bird that may attempt to carry on a flirtation with any of his family.
Some gauchos assert that the whole family of hens deposit their eggs in
one nest or its vicinity. In such cases the eggs number from eighteen
to fifty. It would seem that so large a number it would be difficult
to cover; but ostrich eggs seem to suffer but little by neglect during
incubation.
A gentleman who travelled as far south as the Rio Negro states that
some eggs are allowed to remain outside the nest, and these are broken
by the parent, when the young in the others are hatched, to attract the
flies upon which the chicks feed during the first few days of their
lives.
Fleet of foot, possessed of great endurance, the ostrich is captured
only by the continued efforts of several horsemen, who either drive
it in circles or give it direct chase, each horse when tired being
relieved by a fresh animal and rider.
When the bird has become so exhausted that it can be approached within
forty or fifty yards, the _boliadores_--three balls attached to cords
of equal lengths, which are fastened to one thong--are whirled around
above the head of the gaucho, until they have attained a proper
impetus, and launched at the bird, whose legs become entangled, and he
falls an easy prey.
The male bird is easily distinguished from the female by his larger
head, and the darker color of his plumage. The gauchos sometimes kill
them for food, eating the wings and feet only.
I had heard of the method by which wild colts are rendered submissive,
and requested Don Carlos to permit me to witness the operation. The
gauchos had finished their meal, and as they were about to depart
for the pampas, we saddled our horses, and, mounting, were ready to
accompany them. On the fellows galloped like the wind, swinging the
ends of their bridles over their heads, and shouting boisterously to
each other. Three miles were quickly passed over, and we drew up before
a herd of several hundred animals, nearly all of which were mothers
with their foals. A beautiful young mare attracted my attention, and I
must confess I wished to possess her. I desired the don to select her
for the one to undergo the breaking-in process. I saw at once that I
had made a _faux pas_, for all the gauchos burst into a loud laugh, and
declared that “North Americans must be queer people. Who ever heard
of training a _mare_ to the saddle?” “Why!” exclaimed another, with
a contemptuous curl of his lip, “do you work mares in your country?
Why, man, I would as soon think of putting a saddle upon my poor old
mother’s back, and forcing a bridle into her mouth, as of breaking in a
_mare_! The people of North America are savages!”
Mares are respected in the country of the herdsman, and it is
considered an ungrateful and indecent act to require labor of the
mothers of horses.
Seeing that, through ignorance, I had lowered myself in the opinion
of the pampa lord and his followers, I concluded to hold my peace in
future, and await events without trying to shape them. At last Don
Carlos selected a fine young horse, and pointed it out to one of his
men as a fit subject for his skill.
The gaucho loosened the lasso from behind him, and made the running
noose, which is held in one hand, while in the other are grasped
several coils ready to run out at the proper moment. The victim was
separated from the drove, and the horse bestrode by the gaucho started
after it with the rapidity of the wind. The fugitive strained every
nerve to distance his pursuer; but as a trained horse, if mounted by a
herdsman, can generally overtake a free one, however fleet he may be,
the lasso soon left the gaucho’s hand, his horse wheeled, and braced
his feet for a shock which in an instant occurred, the noose settling
over the head of the victim, and checking him in his flight so suddenly
that he fell in a somerset upon his back.
At first the colt was stunned by the fall; but, recovering, he arose to
his feet, and began pulling upon the lasso until his eyes seemed as if
about to start from their sockets. A second gaucho now galloped to the
assistance of his friend, and, skilfully throwing his lasso around the
hind legs of the victim, started away in another direction, by which
movement the colt was thrown to the ground, and his hind legs stretched
out to their full length. The feet were now tied together with a strip
of hide, the lassoes were removed, and the poor animal was helpless on
the ground, and panting with fear.
But the real work of breaking him in was yet to be done. A saddle was
placed upon his back, and a piece of lasso thrust into his mouth to
serve as a bridle; the bonds on his feet were then loosened enough to
permit him to rise to his feet, and two men held him by the ears, while
his eyes were being covered with a poncho. The question, “Who is to
ride him?” was hardly asked before each gaucho asserted his right to a
seat upon his back.
The youngest son of the _estanciero_ was selected to prove his
horsemanship to the North Americans. He jumped into the saddle with a
determination to conquer, and shouting, “Let go!” drove his sharp iron
spurs into the animal’s flanks. The colt did not move a muscle, but
seemed overwhelmed with astonishment and fear.
Another application of the spurs seemed to recall him to his senses. He
backed slowly, and then plunged forward with astonishing force, rose
upon his hind legs, and then fell to the ground, turning and twisting
his body in every conceivable contortion, but to no purpose; his future
master was upon him, and it was useless attempting to unseat him. The
beast now attempted a new course; he dashed forward in a gallop across
the plains, moving with a speed that only fear and rage could give him.
We followed as fast as our horses could travel; but he distanced us,
until, stopping suddenly, he plunged, reared, kicked, and pranced in
his efforts to unseat his rider; but at every movement, the steel spurs
of the gaucho stung him on the flanks. An hour passed, but the colt was
untamed, and he now attempted another plan for procuring his freedom.
Bending his neck until his nose touched the ground, and throwing his
legs together, he jumped into the air, throwing his rider at each jump
nearly two feet above his saddle.
“Now comes the _vuelto malo_” (bad turn), shouted Don Carlos;
“look, _hijo mio_!” The colt’s nose again touched the ground; he
then attempted to throw a summersault; he almost succeeded; if he
had, he would have crushed the boy; but the rider watched the right
opportunity, and adjusted the position and weight of his body, so that
the horse was forced to settle upon his feet, when he again broke into
a gallop; but his step was feeble, and his strength gone, and he would
fain lie upon the grass if his terrible persecutor would permit.
His great exertions at length overpowered him, and, conquered, he
allowed the gaucho to dismount, and place a halter over his head.
What a change had come over the animal that two hours before was
galloping over the plains with the freedom of the winds! He stood
perfectly still, his eyes closed; his flanks were covered with sweat,
which rolled off his body in large drops; blood oozed from the wounds
inflicted by the spur, and trickled down his limbs; the nostrils were
dilated, and blood was seen about the nose and mouth; every vein stood
prominent upon his swollen body, and his whole appearance was that of
intense suffering and fear.
“What a cruel system!” I involuntarily exclaimed. “How the poor animal
has suffered!”
The gaucho again laughed, and answered, “Why do you pity him? he is
worth but three dollars. There are plenty more better than this one.”
[Illustration: GAUCHO THROWING THE BOLIADORES.]
The young conqueror of eighteen led home his prize, and placed it
in the corral, where it lay for several days, unable to stand, eat, or
sleep. Such is the course of training, or breaking in, of wild colts.
At the expiration of ten days after the first lesson the animal is
again ridden, and a third lesson completely breaks him, when he is
increased fifty cents in value, which sum is paid the gaucho for his
trouble, and the pains he has to endure from the conflict.[2] Of course
the colt’s mouth is too tender to bear the hard iron bit for many days.
After we returned to the house, the gauchos, to further show their
prowess and accomplishments, prepared for some of their favorite games.
First came the trial of “breasting horses.”
Two gauchos mounted their steeds, and, after receiving and answering
the proper challenge, separated, taking stands about forty rods apart.
At a given signal, they spurred their horses, and, as if bent on
destroying each other, rushed with the greatest force their steeds
together, breast to breast. So great was the concussion, that the
riders were forced from the animals’ backs, and tumbled, half stunned,
to the ground. But they quickly recovered; and, as both were anxious
for a second trial, they mounted again and dashed together, this time
only one being unseated, but he was so lame that he declined a third
trial.
Next came the trial of crowding horses.
Two mounted gauchos placed their beasts side by side, and, spurring the
animals on the flanks, each struggled to crowd the other. The horses
seemed to share their riders’ spirits, and at last one little beast
crowded his opponent up to the door of the cook-house, and finally
through it. This was followed by another game.
A bar was placed across the corral entrance, at about the height of the
horse’s head. A gaucho mounted, and then retired several rods from the
corral, when he turned, and galloped towards the gate, and, without
checking his speed, threw himself out of the saddle, and, passing with
the horse under the bar, regained his seat, without having left the
animal or touched the ground. Loud applause followed the achievement,
and others followed in the game, all with good success.
As I had seen, in the early part of the day, the skill with which the
gaucho can throw the lasso, Don Carlos expressed the desire to show his
skill with the _boliadores_. Mounting his horse, and removing the three
balls which were fastened to the peak of his saddle, he gave chase to a
cow, and, when within thirty or forty yards of her, whirled the balls
around his head with great force, and cast them towards her. Away they
flew through the air like chain-shot, and, fastening themselves about
the hind legs of the fugitive, tumbled her to the ground in an instant.
The three _boliadores_ are made of round stones, enclosed in hide
covers; they are attached to the lasso by long sinews of animals.
Wooden balls are used when it is feared that stone _boliadores_ might
break the legs of the animal or bird to be captured.
_Estancia_ life has a degree of loneliness and quiet that would be
unbearable to any one but those who have been reared in it, or have
lived in places similar in character to the surrounding country.
On the _estancia_ lives the proprietor and his family, alone in the
solitude of the plains. Around them is one continual monotony, with no
moving thing, as far as the eye can reach, save the herds that graze in
the vicinity of the house. Day after day the same routine is followed,
until, from very habit, it becomes a second nature. The young herdsman
has the few characters around him to imitate; and as he sees but little
of the outside world,--and then only when some _dia de fieste_ attracts
him to the nearest village,--he grows up an exact copy of his father;
so far as character and general mental qualities go, a veritable “chip
of the old block.” Therefore, when we take into consideration the
isolated life of the gauchos, we should willingly pardon some of their
many failings.
The gauchos of the towns give no more correct idea of their pampa
brethren than do the domesticated Indians of our western country of the
savage tribes of the prairies and forests before the arrival of the
pilgrims. It is only away upon the vast plains that the gaucho is found
in the same half-civilized state that he was in fifty years ago.
A distinguished Argentine statesman and author, wishing to fairly
civilize the gauchos, formed a society for the purpose, to which
many of the leading _estancieros_ of the province of Buenos Ayres
lent their influence. It was the object of the society, first, to
persuade the herdsmen to eschew all gewgaws, such as silver mountings
for their horses, trinkets, the peculiar costume of the pampas, the
poncho, chiropa, frilled drawers, wide belt, and colt-skin boots. After
they had effected their first object, and dressed the fellows in
pantaloons, coat, and boots, they intended to offer them the means of
education and enlightenment, by means of teachers, books, &c. The plan
has not been carried out, and, according to the last accounts from the
country, it had not met with any real encouragement. The gaucho will
still be a gaucho, in spite of all the efforts of philanthropists to
educate him.
The character of the gaucho is a curious combination of deceit,
superstition, and hospitality, the latter not real, but only assumed,
with the expectation of gain or reward. Though they show aversion to
manual labor, and are generally proud-spirited (particularly in the
provinces of Buenos Ayres and Cordova), they are easily amused; the
guitar and mazes of the dance possess strong attractions for them,
and they will enter into _la zamba cueca_ with a wonderful degree of
interest.
The gauchos exhibit a combination of the customs of other countries.
They use the lasso after the manner of the Mexican _vaquero_. Miers
shows that their habit of cooking meat upon a stick or iron spit
(_asador_) came from the Moors, through Spain. They have borrowed
several of their customs from the aboriginal inhabitants,--the use of
the yerba, sucking it through a tube from the gourd, the _maté_, also
that formidable weapon, the _boliadores_, and the lariat, or lasso,
which is used by the pampa tribes and Patagonians.
The _estancia_ life is best fitted to develop the true gaucho
character; there is a freedom of feeling experienced in coursing over
the boundless plains that is peculiarly agreeable to him.
A little sketch of _estancia_ life will, perhaps, not prove
uninteresting to the reader.
First, regarding the right of possession and equality of standing of
the members of the family relative to the property upon which they live.
The _estancia_ is generally left by will to the wife and children, the
wife one third, the boys and girls equal shares. Sometimes she who has
been called wife, is not legally entitled to the name; but this matters
little; she had the right of the property while her spouse lived, and
the same rule follows after death, unless specially mentioned in the
last will and testament, by her lord, to the contrary. The members of
the family rarely divide the property, but live together as before
the head of the family died, each member consulting the others before
making any sales of stock, &c.
The peons, or laborers, that live upon the _estancia_, rise half an
hour before sunrise, take a _maté_ without sugar (unless the proprietor
is unusually considerate), and at sunrise select the horses from the
drove in the corral. A portion of the number mount, and gallop off
to their respective herds, to select a new pasturage ground, and to
prevent them from straying away.
The remaining peons select the half-broken colts, and, after tying them
to stout stakes, entangle the animals with coils of the lasso, tripping
them off their feet, and rolling them on the ground. This is to teach
the young horse to be gentle under difficulties, or, in other words,
not to prance and kick when anything touches the heels.
At about eight or nine o’clock the peons return, and report to the
_capataz_ (foreman), or to the _estanciero_ himself, the condition
of the animals under their respective supervisions. The daily ration
is then given them, which they cook and eat. Perhaps a colt or mule
is to be ridden for the first time; if so, this exercise follows
their breakfast. At noon the peons return to the little shanties that
surround the dwelling of their master, and, after taking a few _matés_,
and perhaps another _asado_, they stretch themselves upon the ground to
enjoy the siesta hour, which, however, often becomes hours in length.
The last departure to the plains occurs about three o’clock, and all
the men return about dusk; they sup on the simple roast, drink a few
_matés_, then roll themselves up in their ponchos, and sleep soundly,
with only a skin or hide beneath them, until, from habit, they awake at
the usual hour, and commence the duties of another day.
The Sabbaths and feast days are strictly kept by the gauchos in their
own peculiar way. They consider it wrong to work on these days, and
when they do, a fine is imposed upon the offenders. But it is perfectly
allowable for men and women to dance, gamble, and fight upon a feast
day. If the traveller is by any chance in one of the small mud towns in
the pampa country, he will see gauchos gallop up into the place from
_estancias_ ten, fifteen, and even twenty leagues distant.
They pass the day in testing horsemanship, stealing, pitting
fighting-cocks, confessing sins to the padres, and not unfrequently the
_grand finale_ is a general _mélée_, from which few escape without a
wound. On such occasions, he who can particularly distinguish himself
as a _diablo_, is generally treated by the crowd, who ply him with
_aguardiente_, and other liquors, until he sometimes mistakes friends
for foes. A fine of twenty dollars was once imposed on Sabbath and
feast-day breakers,--those who were caught at work.
As the priests had many saints to distinguish by honoring them with
particular days, the list received continual acquisitions. St. John’s
day, St. Paul’s day, Saint this one, and Saint that, cheated the
laboring classes of the towns out of a living; for all these days were
better adapted for losing money than for acquiring it. But General
Rosas cut down the long list of holidays to the number now observed,
which is more than large enough for a fair share of frolic and piety.
When dressed in full regalia, the herdsman’s appearance is very
picturesque: in place of pantaloons he wears a _chiropá_ and
_calconcillas_. The former is a square piece of cloth drawn about
the thighs, and fastened around the waist with a belt; it descends
as far as the knees, from which downward the leg is covered with the
_calconcillas_, a wide pair of linen or cotton drawers, finely worked,
and ornamented with two or three frills. The feet are encased in a
pair of _botas de potro_, being the skin stripped from the leg of a
colt, and rubbed until it has become soft and pliable. The heels are
decorated with a pair of iron or silver spurs, of huge proportions,
that rattle and jingle as the gaucho moves about. A shirt, poncho, and
hat complete the costume.
For ornament and use, the gaucho carries a long knife, placed crosswise
in his belt behind. The hilt is very broad, and contains pockets to
hold tobacco, flint and steel, and horn of tinder; the outside of the
_tirador_, as the belt is called, is covered with silver and base
dollars, that are the gaucho’s pride.
Upon a feast day the fellow decks out his horse with silver ornaments,
and rides forth to see and to be seen. Not unfrequently his wife rides
behind him, seated upon a poncho laid upon the horse’s croup; but she
is inferior to his horse in the estimation of the rider, upon which
animal is lavished almost all the wealth (if he is poor) of the owner.
We passed a most pleasant day with Don Carlos, and when we retired to
our couches we felt that the visit had been well worth the time it had
cost.
On the next morning, as soon as etiquette would permit, we bade adieu
to our host and his family, and, mounting our horses, commenced our
long ride back to Rosario.
Nothing occurred of importance, or that would interest the reader, and
the next day we were welcomed cordially by the G.’s, my friends at
Rosario.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] General Rosas, late president of the Argentine Republic, owned an
_estancia_, south of Buenos Ayres, that contained seventy-four square
leagues.--Darwin’s _Voyage_.
[2] In conversation with many gauchos who break in colts for the
_estancieros_, I have been informed this is the price paid them for
their labor, and in hard times even a less sum is paid. This was in the
far interior of the pampa provinces.--_Author._